IN the SPOTLIGHT Spain’S Signature Variety Offers a Breadth of Expressions from Across the Country

TEMPRANILLOIN THE SPOTLIGHT Spain’s signature variety offers a breadth of expressions from across the country. BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER PHOTOS BY MEG BAGGOTT he opinionated owner of Finca Allende, Miguel Angel de Gregorio, didn’t hesitate when asked recently where his home turf of Rioja, Spain, ranks among Old World wine regions: “Rioja belongs in the top five.” T“There’s Bordeaux, Burgundy and Alsace in France, Piedmont in Italy and Rioja. But Rioja is a land of 1,000 wines,” he said. “There is no such thing as typical Rioja, except that it must be made entirely or largely from Tempranillo.” Indeed, Tempranillo is the grape that fuels the Rioja Denomi- nación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), Spain’s most historic and lauded wine region. It accounts for 88% of red grapes, and about three-quarters of all grapes grown in the appellation. While a number of Rioja reds are varietal Tempranillo, many of the region’s showcase wines adhere to traditional recipes and include small percentages of Garnacha (Grenache), Graciano and Mazuelo (Carignan). 68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 WINEMAG.COM | 69 can be light and easy, lush and deep, or elegant and ageworthy, proving de Gregorio right that the region’s Tempranillo-based wines vary in style. ItBut that being said, Rioja doesn’t have a monopoly on the grape within Spain. A few hours southwest, Tempranillo is Recent Tempranillo also king in the Duero River Valley that’s home to the Denominacións de Origen Vintages in Spain (DOs) of Ribera del Duero and Toro. There, the weather is more extreme than in Rioja, the elevation much higher than it appears, and wines are made entirely from Tempra- 2017 nillo, often referred to locally as Tinto Fino A difficult year. Devastating April or Tinta de Toro. frosts in Rioja and the Duero Valley These wines are generally dark, potent resulted in a massive reduction in 2013 Unusually cold and rainy conditions and tannic, sometimes even fierce. To put yields. A dry, hot summer caused produced austere, acidic wines in it in boxing terms, if the best Tempranillos what did survive to be intense both Rioja and the Duero Valley. from Rioja are finely tuned middleweights, and tannic. those from Ribera del Duero and Toro are punch-packing heavyweights. 2012 2016 A very good to excellent warm And that’s the thing—there’s a Tempra- An excellent vintage throughout year that resulted in full-bodied nillo for every taste. You just need to know Spain. Dry, sunny weather through wines. Top Rioja Reservas and Gran where to look. harvest yielded outstanding Reservas are showing well. The Early Bird raw materials. Tempranillo draws its name from the 2011 Spanish word temprano, which means 2015 An excellent vintage. Top Rioja Gran Very warm weather in Rioja and the early. While not exactly an early ripener in Reservas will reward long-term Duero Valley resulted in superripe, the global sense, it matures cellaring. Ribera del Duero and Toro fleshy wines. Not a classic vintage for faster on the vine than most wines are more intense than usual. long-term aging. other red grape varieties, like the aforementioned Garnacha, The French taught 2010 Graciano and Mazuelo. 2014 A cool, dry, extended growing season Not a disaster, but not great. Rain The variety particularly Riojano winemakers resulted in wines with less overt and cool weather at harvest resulted excels in the north of Spain, ripeness, higher acidity and unlimited in uneven ripeness and inconsistent where temperatures are how to grow better aging potential. quality across the country. Rot and fairly moderate, rivers flow in mildew were also issues. multiple directions and high grapes and age elevations help keep the nights cool. wine properly in In Rioja, for example, the best Tempranillo vineyards oak barrels, often are found in the Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa subzones, for years prior to where soils are rich in limestone deposits and bottling. generally exceed 1,500 feet above sea level. The Sierra de Cantabria mountain range to the north and Sierra de la Demanda subrange to the south of the Ebro River create an ideal, valley-like atmosphere to cultivate top wine grapes. While no one knows for sure how long Tempranillo has existed in Spain, the general 70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 WINEMAG.COM | 71 Spanish Tempranillos to Buy Now - - Bodegas Tobía 2015 Alma To Sa- CVNE 2011 Imperial Gran Reser bía Tinto de Autor (Rioja). belief is that the grape’s history in Iberia extends to va (Rioja). Aromas of spiced 93 97 vory oak aromas are matched by dark the time of the Phoenicians. plum, black olive, fig, tobacco and berry, toast and chocolaty scents. A It was during the 1800s, however, that the cassis come together like a puzzle. - full-bodied palate offers just enough variety came to the fore in Rioja. During the worst The palate shows near-perfect bal give and tastes of blackberry, savory - of Europe’s phylloxera plague, many Bordeaux ance and tastes of ripe plum, berry oak and vanilla. A long finish con fruits and earthy spice. Smooth and tinues a theme of balanced ripeness. winemakers crossed the Pyrenees mountains to - elegant on the finish. Drink through Drink through 2040. Tri-Vin Im make wine in Spain, which had not yet been hit by 2035. Arano LLC. Editors’ Choice. Price: $88 ports. Editors’ Choice. the destructive vine louse. abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% The French taught Riojano winemakers how to - Casa Primicia 2012 Viña Diez grow better grapes and age wine properly in oak García Figuero 2016 Crianza 94 mo GR Gran Reserva (Rioja). 12 (Ribera del Duero). Smoky barrels, often for years prior to bottling. It was - 93 - Aromas of baked black fruits and co blackberry and cassis aromas are con these new techniques that would eventually lead coa launch this wine. Concentrated - centrated and ripe. Typical of the re to Rioja’s now-familiar aging-based classifications: on the palate, it deals plum and berry gion, this feels full and flush, with hard - Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. flavors that are backed by wood spice tannins. Blackberry, coffee and choco and cinnamon notes. A stout finish late flavors soften on the finish. Drink From that watershed era arose holds onto its fruit. Drink through through 2030. Quintessential Wines. wineries including Marqués de 2035. W. Direct. Editors’ Choice. Price: $32 Price: $44 abv: 14.6% Riscal, Marqués de Murrieta, abv: 14.5% Wines from Ribera Compañía Vinícola del Norte de Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Gran Contino 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Smooth, steady España (CVNE), La Rioja Alta, - Reserva (Rioja). Rich, malty aromas are sup 93 94 aromas of dark fruits, turned earth and del Duero and Toro Bodegas Franco-Españolas and ported by cocoa, mocha and berry oak grain are on the money. This feels Bodegas Riojanas. Today, all make scents. This has a jammy palate and a - pure and tight, with clarity and struc are usually muscular some of the world’s greatest wines. ripe flavor profile. Depth and balance ture. Flavors of dried plum, cherry, These wines represent a quint drive the finish. Drink through 2040. raspberry, spice and cocoa finish with - Arano LLC. Editors’ Choice. - and extracted, with essential Rioja style: refined $45 elegance. Drink through 2040. Vine 13.5% Price: abv: yard Brands. Editors’ Choice. wines of elegance, always based Price: $40 - abv: 14% the potential for 12 Linajes 2014 Reserva (Ri on Tempranillo. They also boast Subtle yet - a healthy but integrated mix of 93 bera del Duero). Marqués de Murrieta 2012 Fin high alcohol and ripe blackberry and tobacco aromas ca Ygay Gran Reserva Limited spicy berry and plum aromas are chocolaty. The wine tastes of 93 - Edition (Rioja). Initial oaky aromas and flavors, bracing acidity, oak blackberry, black cherry and bak settle on road-tar blackness. A lush powerful tannins. framing and the ability to improve ing spices, while a finish with notes palate is braced by acidity and tastes of for many years after bottling. of lemony oak, vanilla and tobacco plum, cassis, tobacco and brown sugar. is rock-solid and on point. Drink A long finish features mocha, chocolate USA Wine West. Edi- through 2028. and spice notes. This will be best from Brawn Over Finesse tors’ Choice. - The Duero River begins in the province of Soria $35 2022–2028. Maisons Marques & Do 14.5% Price: abv: maines USA. Cellar Selection. in north-central Spain. It flows westward into Price: $57 abv: 14% Portugal before it joins with the Atlantic Ocean Bodegas Franco-Españolas near the city of Oporto. Along the way, it provides 93 2011 Royal Reserva (Rioja). Numanthia 2014 Numanthia - the Ribera del Duero and Toro regions with vital Aromas of dried plum and cherry 93 (Toro). Black cherry, choco are aided by wood spice and vanilla late and marzipan aromas announce a water to nurture Tempranillo. notes. This is lively but balanced on ripe wine. This tastes of savory black Wines from these regions are usually muscular - - the palate. Plum, berry and spice fla fruits and chocolate, while an un and extracted, with the potential for high alcohol vors shout Rioja all the way, while this - yielding finish focuses on blackberry and powerful tannins. They’re intense creations runs steady across an unwavering fin and coffee richness framed by lasting ish. Drink through 2028. W. Direct. ët with a lot of color, fruit, oak and raw power. $34 tannins. Drink through 2032. Mo 14% Price: abv: Hennessy USA. In eastern Ribera del Duero, near the town of Price: $60 abv: 15% Aranda del Duero, elevations can exceed 3,000 Bodegas Riojanas 2011 Monte Real Gran Reserva (Rioja).

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