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Home , Carignan, Chilean wine, Miguel Torres Chile, Toro (DO), Wine law

PETER RICHARDS MW

ISSUE 01 : 2013 BRIEF PETER RICHARDS MW

CONTENTS

Introduction 02 Talking points 04 Facts AND figures 09 varieties 13 Regions 17 2013 report 22 Producer rankings AND REVIEwS 24 WiNE RATINGS 35 a-z summary of wine ratings 47

ILLUSTRATION by HELEN RICHARDS ISSUE 01 : 2013

01 intro- CHILE I’ve been captivated by personal. It’s therefore Chile since working inevitably limited and duc- WINE as a journalist there in somewhat homespun – tion BRIEF the late 1990s, when I but hopefully this is what started covering the wine makes it worthwhile scene. I’ve visited almost too. It is intended for annually since, to keep everyone from producers up to date (and enjoy to the global wine trade some proper sours). to students and everyday A book (The of wine lovers: anyone with Chile), a Master of Wine an interest in being ahead Dissertation, thousands of the curve and enjoying of wines and words later, delicious . and I still can’t dance the The design and marketing cueca. But I do have a feel is deliberately different, ‘Chile lies at for Chilean wine in the as is my approach to global context – hence my rating wines, for reasons opening remarks. I outline in that section. The idea is to make this the end of Consider this document a regular publication, to like a peek behind keep up with the rapid the scenes of Chilean pace of change in Chilean wine: a well informed wine. all roads’ briefing dossier that brings you bang up to I very much hope you THE AUTHOR date with all the latest enjoy it. wrote the novelist Isabel Allende. key information. It’s not It’s certainly far-flung, remote Peter Richards is a writer, intended to be exhaustive Peter Richards MW broadcaster and Master (I make reference even – but this spindly South of Wine. Peter’s award- elsewhere to the best American country is also one of winning work takes him all other sources to consult) around the world and his and is unashamedly [email protected] the most dynamic and exciting regular BBC TV and radio opinionated, pithy and twitter: @wineschools appearances, writing and wine nations on earth right now. events mean his engaging, The wine that flows from its hills informed style is familiar to many. Peter is also a and valleys merits close attention fluent Spanish speaker and renowned authority on because it is showing tantalising Chilean wine – his book glimpses of a compelling, multi- The Wines of Chile was described as, ‘Magnificent: faceted future. Hence this, the the best book on Chilean wine to date’. You can find first ever Chile Wine Brief. out more on his website Welcome! www.susieandpeter.com. 02 03 TALK- TALK- Its wine industry, however, needs to do better. This is a country with enviable natural advantages for making wine and it needs ING ING to harness and exploit these better. In a country with relatively low pest and disease pressure, practices need to be more POINTS POINTS enlightened and sustainable (going organic or biodynamic are just some ways of doing this). One of the key challenges to the industry’s sustainability is vine longevity: too many are being replanted prematurely due to disease or poor planting. ‘To make great wines we need mature vines but our vineyards are farmed by Neanderthals,’ is one winemaker’s scathing yet plaintive assessment. Another notes how some of the country’s best vineyards are those using, ‘zero – which means we’ve TALKING been getting it wrong.’ There’s no doubt that sustainability is finally on the agenda both on an industry-wide and individual producer POINTS level in Chile. But more can be done. ‘If we open a quarrel between past and present, we shall find that we have lost the future.’ Winston Churchill

Something old, something new Chile has been criticised in the past for being boring, predictable and limited in its wine offering. In the nineties and early noughties it was a valid charge – but no longer. Chile is one of the most dynamic wine nations on earth; the sheer pace of change, The big alcohol debate innovation and advancement is astonishing. (It also makes life ‘It’s simple,’ said one winemaker to me, frustrated because I’d difficult for writers, whose work dates fast.) New vineyards keep criticised his wine for being too alcoholic. ‘Just drink less of it!’ I popping up in all sorts of extreme and unexpected places – from make no bones about the fact I prefer wines with less alcohol – I Toconao in the heart of the to Chile Chico in like my wine and want to be able to enjoy a decent amount without the ice-strewn south. Stylistic diversification continues apace, falling off my chair. Moreover, the combination of ripe, sweet fruit with sparkling, sweet and ‘natural’ wines increasingly common, flavours with lowish acidity and raspingly high alcohol – while even fortified and flor-aged wines popping up on the grid. Proud impressive – can also be monotonous and simplistic. I want a winemakers display their new toys including concrete eggs, wine to whisper sweet nothings, not scream inanities. It’s true that stainless steel , earthenware tinaja pots and large vats Chile naturally tends to make a generous rather than lean wine (instead of small oak barrels). But it’s not just about novelty. One of style. But to hear winemakers extolling the virtues of lowering the most exciting trends in Chile of late has been the revival of the alcohol by reverse osmosis machines (as I did recently in Chile) country’s heritage, from old-vine , Cinsault, or discussing adding water (only ever ‘theoretically’ because it’s and País in the south to the sweet pajarete of the north. I illegal) is disappointing and misguided. A better long-term solution was recently served, by way of introduction to Santa Carolina’s is simply to plant vineyards in cooler areas or earlier. From heritage programme, a 1967 Macul Cabernet. It was glorious. the 2011 vintage, Marcelo Retamal at De Martino is harvesting his Respecting and reviving the past will be vital for Chile’s future. reds on average a month earlier than before, in the search for lower alcohols, better balance and less ‘standardisation by over-ripeness’. Hit the sustain pedal Initial results are encouraging and not only from a quality Being business-minded folk, Chileans aren’t the most natural perspective – Retamal reports that, because early harvests mean guardians of the earth. (The copper and wood industries, some less dehydration, his fruit yields up to 30% more juice. So there’s an of Chile’s largest earners, exact a harsh toll on the environment.) economic incentive to naturally lower alcohol wines, too. 04 05 TALK- TALK- long-term good in mind. This is not just an internal, but an external Set the winemakers free! task. It includes forging links with other wine industries all around Chilean wine has one of the most consolidated producer bases in ING ING the world. Encouraging winemaker exchange programmes, the world. While this makes sound commercial sense, the country POINTS POINTS creating international promotional associations and initiatives – could use more personality in its wines and marketing. It needs even establishing a South American Wine Summit – would greatly more small-scale, niche producers prepared to champion more help Chile’s standing on the world wine stage. It would also help it edgy, potentially thrilling and esoteric wine styles. This is what focus on the big picture rather than the petty stuff. gets wine connoisseurs excited and produces a halo effect for the rest of the industry. One of the most efficient ways to diversify the producer base is by giving the country’s most experienced practitioners (ie the senior winemakers in the big ) more leeway either to develop sub-brands or to cultivate their own mini ventures on the side. Chile’s new generation of winemakers is finally finding its voice – they are young enough not to be stuck in their ways but sufficiently experienced to understand their vines and the wider world of wine. Owners and shareholders need to trust them and give them not only greater freedom in their work but also more prominence on the global stage. Energised winemakers, and the wines they make, will then become the most eloquent ambassadors for the country, creating a unique identity in the process – and making sound commercial sense too.

Name and gain The Chilean wine denomination system needs changing (or, in fact, re-creating). As it stands, Decree 464, which delimits Chile’s wine regions, is designed for and by bureaucrats not winemakers. In 2011 an amendment was passed introducing a tripartite division allowing producers to use the Costa, Entre Cordilleras or Less is more monikers on their labels. While this system is flawed (from the So said architect Mies van der Rohe (and poet Robert Browning nomenclature to the divisions themselves) its value is the precedent before him). To which consultant winemaker Alberto Antonini it sets for change. What Chile desperately needs now is a system adds an important caveat: to do less, you need to know more. Chile of small-scale areas (localidades – like Apalta, Quebrada Seca, Lo finds itself at an exciting stage in its vinous development when Abarca or Los Lingues) it can write into its wine law, to make it the foundations have been laid for the creation of truly fine wines mean something for the wines and establish the fundamentals for (promising , good plant material, experienced yet dynamic a proper wine map. It’s too soon for a full-blown European-style winemakers). Now all that’s needed is patience, and the confidence system with regulations on , varieties and so forth. to do less rather than more. It’s easy to write, less easy to practise. Any system introduced at this stage needs in-built flexibility for a future still in development. But if Chile is serious about investing in its long-term fine wine credentials, it needs government and Water, water somewhere growers to work together to establish these denominations as soon Water shortages in Chile are no laughing matter. The country’s as possible. In the meantime, valuable time is being wasted while reserves are running at a severe deficit, with implications for wine drinkers familiarise themselves with other fine wine areas everything from agriculture to power (hydroelectric supplies around the world – but not Chile’s. nearly half the country’s energy and is currently running at a 12- year low). Vineyards are being left to wither in Limarí and there are now moratoria on new plantings in many regions, especially Wanna be in my gang? coastal and northern ones, because new water rights will not be Parochial rivalry is a disease in Chile. It continues to inhibit granted. And yet one winemaker I spoke to reported that, when collective enterprise and innovation. That said, the younger he’d consulted an specialist from the Middle East, one generation is making progress. Initiatives like MOVI, VIGNO, of the most water-deprived regions of the world, the specialist had Chanchos Deslenguados and Top Winemakers are groupings laughed. Chile has more than enough water, he’d said, it just needs of forward-thinking wine folk prepared to work together for a to be retained and used more efficiently. There’s an exposed rock greater good. Inasmuch as they are helping to build a constructive face a few metres underground in Lapostolle’s Apalta ; it alternative image to Chilean wine and fostering the collective spirit, has never been dry (and this in a warm area). In the coming years, they are welcome. But when they lapse into stone-throwing and fresh water is likely to replace oil as the globe’s most precious ranty self-indulgence, it becomes counter-productive. Chile needs liquid resource. Chile’s government and growers need to invest its wine people to work together responsibly and with the collective 06 07 now to manage its supplies more efficiently. The wine industry TALK- CHILE also needs to develop vineyards further south, where rain is more plentiful and dry farming (ie cultivation without irrigation) is ING WINE feasible. POINTS BRIEF Hail the kingmakers Consultants get a bad rap. Sometimes, it’s justified, for example when their role is primarily to lend a famous name to a bottle while essentially neutering the product. Chile has had mixed success with consultants and foreign input (some just get carried away and encourage deplorable excess) but lately things have been looking up. The likes of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, Alberto Antonini, Benjamin Leroux and Matt Thomson are all names that fill wine lovers’ ears with optimism. Moreover, the home-grown talent has never been better. Leading this charge is consultant and producer Pedro Parra, who has helped inspire a generation of winemakers to broaden their minds and search for the ‘X-factor’ in Chilean wine. Other names worthy of recognition include Alvaro Peña, Claudio Pastene, Yerko Moreno and Eduardo Silva. What Chilean winemakers need to craft great wines is an in-depth global perspective allied to an almost obsessive local focus. Whether foreign or home-grown, consultants can help in this task – they just need to be good. FACTS AND FIGURES

Chilean wine : The headlines

Total wine production (2013): Pedro Parra 1.28 billion litres

Total wine vineyard (2011): Pop those corks 125,946 hectares Excellent news: Descorchados will shortly be available in English. ‘The bible’, as it is affectionately known by its writers (and some Export value, bottled wine (May 2012-May 2013): Chile wine watchers, this author included), will be launched US$1.56 billion (FOB) English-style in March 2014 in iBook format for tablets and iPads. For those unfamiliar with this annual guide, it compiles the tasting Export volume, bottled wine (May 2012-May 2013): highlights of a team working under respected journalist Patricio 53.43 million cases Tapia and Héctor Riquelme. It’s grown into one of the most worthwhile and influential publications not only on the Top export destinations: Chilean wine scene but now also covering and Uruguay. UK, US, Brazil, Japan, Holland, China, Canada, Ireland, Russia, Denmark

(Sources: SAG, Intelvid) 08 09 Year Vineyard area Production FACTS FACTS (hectares) (million litres) AND AND 1996 56,004 382 FIG- FIG- 1997 63,550 431 1998 75,388 527 URES URES 1,048,165 8,591,321 3,828,518 44,252,144 2,604,161 54,414,533 52,769,431 144,595,586 57,126,076 36,284,327 8,364,348 3,169,563 TOTAL TOTAL PRODUCTION 1999 85,357 428 2000 103,876 642 2001 106,971 545 2002 108,569 562 555,213 571,168 90,276 2,045 472,610 223,539 3,927,144 9,620 Moscatel de de Moscatel Alejandria 2003 110,096 668 2004 112,056 630 2005 114,448 789 35,350 141,264 6,204,894 694,683 414,502 95,026 991,226 1,524,472 1,469,916 182,517 1,243,802 2006 116,793 845 2007 117,559 828 2008 104,717* 869 166,315 1,187,440 648,086 582,252 172,035 7,691,593 5,057,953 13,077,271 781,126 1,432,713 359,193 Chilean wine : 2009 111,525 1,009 The data 2010 116,831 915 Chilean wine vineyard and 2011 125,946 1,063 production 316,021 1,055,619 199,975 12,051,826 5,626,741 6,244,485 9,762,656 4,624,911 4,629,590 374,852 745,219 * A new registration system was introduced in 2008 which affected the way vineyards in the south were accounted for; inconsistencies were finally ironed out in the 2011 census. 422,326 304,566 23,633 2,417,023 5,155,019 17,422,461 3,802,051 2,434,044 420,153 326,637 Carmenere Production Grape variety Production % of total (litres) 9,700 680,912 2,361,598 52,133 6,148,102 8,776,310 25,685,486 6,560,700 3,991,544 402,333

by principal 372,156,140 35.2 regions and 159,881,099 15.1 Merlot 128,562,105 12.1 grape varieties 576,547 514,775 21,062,317 1,191,682 6,169,828 5,592,732 9,600,876 21,076,992 5,411,693 478,686 594,831 (litres, 2013, wines with Sauvignon Blanc Carmenere 96,054,191 9.1 Denominación de Origen) Chardonnay 93,793,112 8.9

Syrah 79,113,112 7.5 NB: these figures are for wines with DO, which account for 84% Pinot Noir 26,160,902 2.5 of production. However, the 1,101,570 1,072,978 272,813 23,852,279 18,027,840 59,053,038 14,770,658 13,320,106 705,858 7,850 Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon 18,310,152 1.7 figures here are incomplete – only Moscatel de Alejandria 17,609,627 1.7 accounting for roughly half the Production by total Chilean production (Maule, PX 17,078,006 1.6 for example, is unusually low, while Others 49,891,504 4.7 grape variety Colchagua is high). Nonetheless it (2013, wines with does give an idea of production by Limari Casablanca San Antonio Maipo Cachapoal Colchagua Curico Maule Itata Bio REGION TOTAL 1,058,609,950 100 Elqui Denominación de Origen) variety across the regions. 10 11 red wines. re-registered fromthen.Tintoreras areusedprimarily todeepen thehue of officially identified inChile 1994andCarmenerevineyards begantobe dramaticfact that riseinCarmenere figuresreflectsthe the variety wasonly Likewise, Merlot figuresmay still include someCarmenereplantings. The Blanc figuresmay well include someSauvignonasse/. and 2010figureshere, alsothe País and Moscatel numbers. Sauvignon theabove-mentionedNB: change inrecordingsystem affectedthe2009 Grape Variety 2011 2010 2009 2006 2003 2000 1997

Cabernet Sauvignon 40,837 38,426 40,728 40,789 39,731 35,967 15,995

Sauvignon Blanc 13,922 13,278 12,159 8,697 7,368 6,662 6,576

Merlot 11,432 10,640 10,041 13,368 12,879 12,824 5,411

Chardonnay 10,970 10,834 13,082 8,548 7,565 7,672 5,563

Carmenere 10,040 9,502 8,827 7,183 6,045 4,719 330

Syrah 7,393 6,887 6,027 3,370 2,468 2,039 201

Pais 7,079 5,855 3,868 14,955 14,953 15,180 15,241

Tintoreras 5,373 4,527 3,887 2,905 2,683 2,520 632

Pinot Noir 3,729 3,307 2,884 1,382 1,422 1,613 411

Moscatel de Alejandria 3,266 3,118 1,090 6,029 6,035 5,978 5,956

Malbec 1,828 1,489 1,264 1,027 951 929 501

Cabernet Franc 1,451 1,345 1,321 1,143 925 689 64

Others 8,626 7,623 6,347 7,396 7,072 7,084 6,669 (hectares) time in Chileover Grape varieties URES FIG- AND FACTS 12 BRIEF WINE CHILE 13 VARIETIES GRAPE misrepresentation andshould beoutlawed. rock bottom prices) andlabelling it Sauvignon Blanc. This isgross Sauvignonasse orSauvignon Vert (often inthe‘central valley’, at some producers doggedly inferiorvariety persist makingthefar arrow) orinsweet winesfromthesouth.My only caveat is that sites (Calyptra’s oaked version issuperb, asisLaberinto’s steely of styles. You caneven find good Sauvignon from high Andean Paredones –allofthesemake excellent Sauvignon inavariety Sauvignon. Huasco, Elqui, Limarí,Aconcagua Costa, Casablanca, take your pick ofcoastal regionsand pulloutsomethrilling structured, dense andsometimes wild.But you canprettymuch at themoment. SanAntonio makes someofthebest: superbly Along with Syrah andPinot,oneof thesexiest varieties inChile Sauvignon Blanc Cabernet Sauvignon winemakers is:where arethesewinesofthefuture? Reservas 1998 prove it can bedone. My rallyingtoChilean cry 1989, Medalla Real 1987, Estrella de Oro1967, Seña1997, Antiguas focusing instead onthelatter. Historic winesincluding CasaReal In toomany cases,Chileanwinemakers todeliver fail theformer, Cabernet needsscent andgrace as well asstructureandintensity. stratospheric (for Chile) pricetags. Andyet, andyet. Great a thirdofallChileanwineoutput, including somebottleswith Cab isthebigboy ontheChileanwine campus. It accounts for (13,922 ha,11%) (40,837 hectares(ha), 32%) GRApe varieties VARI- CHILE GRApe varieties ETIES WINE Merlot (11,432 ha, 9%) – from no registered plantings in 1995, by 2011 it covered nearly A significant chunk of these plantings may still be Carmenere BRIEF 7,400 hectares, albeit nowhere near Cab’s 40,837.) It can produce – either in mixed vineyards or due to either wilful or ignorant wines of startling diversity – from the peppery levity of Elqui to the misidentification. The truth is that Merlot struggles in Chile, dense potency of Apalta – as well as outstanding value and quality. suffering from dehydration (hence drying, baked wines) among The only problem is getting people to buy it: for various reasons other ailments. Many theories have been forwarded – including there appears to be a commercial block with Syrah. There is hope, the weakness of its own roots (elsewhere, and increasingly now though. A study I conducted for my Master of Wine dissertation in Chile, it tends to be planted on rootstock). To my mind, Merlot showed significant appetite for premium Chilean Syrah, both is simply planted in far too many unsuitably hot sites in Chile. from consumers and the UK trade, once they had tried the stuff. Great Merlot is made in very few, very specific sites in the world. As a British prime minister once said, there are three priorities: Chile needs to find those sites and, in the meantime, replant the education, education and education. others to different varieties. Authorities should also start to clamp down on producers selling wines as Merlot when in fact they are predominantly Carmenere. The long-term benefits outweigh the short-term implications.

Chardonnay (10,970 ha, 9%) There was a time when tasting a flight of Chilean Chardonnays felt like ordeal by confectionery. It’s taken some new plantings and obsessive work by winemakers (like Marcelo Papa and François Massoc) to change this. And boy have things moved on. Limarí now flies the flag as Chile’s Chardonnay homeland but there are fine examples from Aconcagua Costa, Casablanca, San Antonio, the Andean east (Maipo, Cachapoal) and the south (Malleco). Acidity, structure and savoury tones are now hallmarks of the best Chilean Chardonnays. It’s also making some very decent fizz. As with Merlot, Chardonnay needs very specific sites and an experienced winemaking hand; Chile is getting there. País (7,079 ha, 6%) Carmenere (10,040 ha, 8%) What was once a vague embarrassment on Chile’s list is experiencing a change in fortune. This is largely due to the work ‘Where is the Carmenere devotion in this country?!’ rails Polkura of the Miguel Torres winery which since 2007 has been running winemaker and MOVI man Sven Bruchfeld. ‘We haven’t even made a programme focusing on reviving the fortunes of formerly the box, so how can we think outside of it yet?!’ He has a point. disregarded ‘heritage’ varieties like Muscat and País (also known These are early days for Chilean Carmenere – the grape was only as Mission or Criolla). Torres winemaker Fernando Almeda has officially identified in 1994 – but real progress has felt slow in this undertaken detailed work on coaxing quality from what is a thin- time. This has led many to question whether Carmenere is a top- skinned, often vastly over-productive variety, making a delightful flight grape variety after all. It undoubtedly is – but time, patience pink fizz and -esque in the process. ‘Chilean and perseverance are required for Carmenere to express its full wine has developed so fast we’ve forgotten where we’ve come potential. Results of the first proper clonal research programme are from,’ says Almeda. ‘Now we’re rescuing our heritage.’ While just being released, with intriguing results (for vine geeks) about much of the country’s País is still planted in the wrong places, it’s Carmenere’s poor fertility being due to deformed pollen rather than heartening to see this bit of Chile’s vinous legacy being put to good bent stamens. And work by forward-thinking winemakers like purpose. Andrea León, Alvaro Espinoza and Mario Geisse is demonstrating Carmenere’s potential for elegance and diversity rather than just an ‘unripe vs over-ripe’ bipolarity. As Bruchfeld implies, Carmenere Pinot Noir (3,729, 3%) needs a bit more love. The holy grail. As a Burgundian winemaker once said: ‘It takes a lifetime to make great Pinot. And then you die.’ The quest is afoot Syrah (7,393 ha, 6%) in Chile, as winemakers are taking up the challenge in increasing numbers and with ever greater zeal. It’s a fascinating process to If I had my way, Syrah would exchange places with Cabernet in witness and laudable progress is already being made. I firmly terms of varietal plantings in Chile. I think Syrah is phenomenally believe that Chile can and will make great Pinot Noir. The first well suited to this country’s splintered geography, in its eroded thing that needs to change is the mindset – making great Pinot granite slopes and inebriating sunshine. (Others clearly agree is a high-wire act that implies great risk, but also great potential 14 15 GRApe varieties VARI- CHILE ETIES WINE reward. There are other challenges too. Chile’s great Pinot terroirs need finding, cultivating and fine tuning: too many sites are still BRIEF too warm, poorly planted or badly managed. Winemakers need to taste more great Pinot from all around the world – Burgundy yes but New Zealand, Australia, Germany too – and develop a second sense for this most elusive and haunting of varieties. Then it takes time. Great Pinot needs experience and vine age (around half of Chile’s vineyard is under 15 years old, and good new Pinot clones are a recent thing in Chile). For now, Chilean Pinot remains excellent value and increasingly diverse in style – with the occasional wine to make the pulse race.

Carignan (782 ha, 0.6%) The re-discovery of Carignan, and other varieties like it, has been one of the most exciting stories in modern Chilean winemaking. Much of it was planted in the early 20th century under government incentive schemes: it yielded well and gave colour and body to País wines. But as the vines matured and yields decreased, it fell out of favour and was overlooked in Chile’s modernising rush REGIONS in the 1990s which prioritised more international varieties like Cabernet, Merlot and Pinot Noir. When the old, often dry-farmed Carignan vines were slowly rediscovered in the noughties, it was a powerful reminder of the diversity and heritage in Chilean wine. Now, Carignans can be found in a variety of styles, from rich and A thumbnail guide to Chile’s inky to juicy and fresh. It has even provided the basis for a nascent appellation in the form of VIGNO, a designation used by producers wine regions. There are no of wines based on (a minimum of 65%) old-vine Carignan from dry- farmed vineyards in the southern coastal hills. maps – mapping a country as Others lanky and diverse as Chile is a Chile has draconian plant quarantine laws, which have impeded the development of varietal diversity in the country. While this is Sisyphean task, well beyond the regrettable, it’s been good to see committed growers successfully begin to imbue the country’s vineyards with the kind of variety scope of this publication. that it can and should have. There is massive potential for all kinds of weird and wonderful wines to be made in this protean nation. I’d recommend the fold-out map produced annually by Origo Ediciones (Wines of Chile often have copies, or you can find old I have tasted delightful wines lately from the likes of , versions on Amazon). Or consult my book, The Wines of Chile , Muscat, , , Gewürztraminer, (Kindle edition available via Amazon) or The World Atlas of Wine. Mourvedre, Cinsault, Petite Sirah, , , PX, Sauvignon Gris, , Torontel, and . Other varieties are being planted too. , , Elqui (525 hectares) , , , Albariño, Teroldego, Star gazers and pisco grape brandy were the staples of this clear- , Greco, , , , , skied, dramatic narrow valley until wine entered stage left in the , Marselan, Mencía and are names that crop up early noughties. And what an entrance: vivid, peppery Syrah and in official figures or my research. tangy Sauvignon Blanc were the initial stars but now this tableau is growing. There are promising things happening both in the high- Chile needs to experiment – within reason. There’s no point altitude east and near the coast in the west where the valley opens planting deliberately obscure varieties just for the bragging rights. out to La Serena and the ocean. But where they can provide some intrigue or original wine styles, and in the process help bolster Chile’s viticultural credentials and Star varieties: Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec broader wine portfolio, they are very welcome. Star producers: Falernia, Mayu, Lapostolle, San Pedro, De Martino 16 17 REGIONS RE- CHILE REGIONS GIONS WINE Limarí (2,817 hectares) Sauvignon over alluvial fans in Pirque and Puente Alto. But the A strong cooling ocean influence and limestone-encrusted soils BRIEF wines are all too often over-cooked: too rich, too ripe, too extracted, help give wines with structure and gravitas in what are effectively too alcoholic – too much. Look back three or four decades and the the southern fringes of the Atacama Desert. Recent developments wines are often sensational examples of the beauty of simplicity. in the west (Talinay) and east near Hurtado are further broadening Less is more. the region’s potential for diversity. This is proving to be one of Chile’s hot-spots for Chardonnay, making rich but structured Star varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere wines with a savoury, saline lick. Star producers: Undurraga, De Martino, , Santa Rita, Antiyal, Pérez Cruz, Carmen Star varieties: Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir Star producers: Tabalí, Maycas del Limarí, Tamaya, De Martino Cachapoal (12,606 hectares) The wallflower of Chilean wine is slowly being coaxed into the Aconcagua (1,207 hectares) limelight by a brave band of producers in the Andean east. Like New developments in the coastal west (Aconcagua Costa and Maipo, some questionable winemaking has stymied what are some around Quillota) have injected much-needed diversity into an decent vineyard assets. With more ambition and sensitivity, this otherwise staid regional offering of generous reds. We can expect a could easily change. lot more diversity and quality wines to emerge from this region in the future. Star varieties: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere Star producers: Calyptra, Aristos, Clos des Fous, Altaïr Star varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc Star producers: Errázuriz, Montes, Valdivieso, Seña Colchagua (28,616 hectares) One of Chile’s most dynamic wine regions over the last decade, Casablanca (6,047 hectares) Colchagua is finally starting to diversify beyond its staple of big, A region revived. The arrival of serious small-scale producers and often brash reds reliant on Cabernet Sauvignon. This is good an acceptance that Casablanca is not simply one homogenous ‘cool- news because, to my mind, Cabernet is not the grape for most climate’ area has led to massive improvements in the wines. There of Colchagua (a heretical notion given its local ubiquity). The is still much more to do in terms of replanting, varietal adjustment development of more coastal areas (Paredones, Pumanque), some and discovering new areas (especially in the west) but it’s great to detailed viticultural work and a more diverse producer base are see this famous name back on form. shaping a bright future for this rural heartland.

Star varieties: Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Star varieties: Carmenere, Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Gewürztraminer Mourvedre Star producers: Bodegas RE, Montsecano, Casas del Bosque, Star producers: Lapostolle, Montes, Casa Silva, Cono Sur, Morandé Villalobos, LFE

San Antonio (inc Leyda, 2,283 hectares) Curicó (18,510 hectares) Casablanca’s successor as Chile’s sexiest coastal wine region saw a The dozy neighbour to dynamic Colchagua, Curicó has been the gold rush of producers keen to join the action. Things are settling least noteworthy of Chile’s regions lately. This may change – there down now but it’s clear that some of Chile’s best wines are being are nooks and crannies of great potential value here – but for now made in these blustery, bright hillsides. As techniques are refined even its best producers tend to do their greatest work outside the and experiments fine tuned, there will be more to come, too. region.

Star varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Sauvignon Gris, Riesling, Star varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir Star producers: Miguel Torres, Valdivieso, San Pedro Star producers: Viña Leyda, Casa Marín, Matetic, Undurraga Maule (31,831 hectares) Maipo (12,679 hectares) Like its southerly neighbours Itata and Bío Bío, Maule is a region The gravitational centre of Chilean wine orbiting around the rediscovering itself. For long the un-credited engine room of capital , Maipo is neither its biggest nor (to my mind) best Chilean wine, Maule is finally starting to capitalise on considerable region, on current form. Some of the country’s finest vineyard assets including a wealth of dry-farmed, old-vine material – often sites are unquestionably located here, including fabulous Cabernet Carignan – in its rolling western hills. Young winemakers are 18 19 REGIONS RE- CHILE REGIONS GIONS WINE starting to court wizened growers rather than deride them. A it’s something of a mystery as to why more hasn’t been achieved common mistake is that winemakers, when faced with such BRIEF here, save a few notable exceptions. The precedent is set; forward- beautiful old vine fruit, try to do too much with it, making thinking producers need to capitalise. impressive but undrinkable wines. This extensive, historic region still has many treasures to yield. Star varieties: Riesling, Pinot Noir, País, Chardonnay Star producers: Cono Sur, Concha y Toro, Dos Andes Star varieties: Carignan, País, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc Star producers: Gillmore, Erasmo (Reserva de Caliboro), Malleco (16 hectares) Laberinto (Ribera del Lago), O.Fournier, Terranoble Chile’s bread basket has proved it can moonlight more than passably as a fine wine region thanks to Felipe de Solminihac’s Itata (6,777 hectares) SoldeSol project. It’s now gratifying to see others taking up the The rolling, largely forested countryside around the mighty port of challenge. Structured, serious Chardonnay and elegant mid-weight Concepción in south-’s represents Chile’s winemaking Pinot Noir look like being the stars of the show but there is much heritage. It’s where some of the country’s first vineyards are yet to be done here. What Malleco and the rest of Chile’s southerly thought to have been developed in the 1550s. That heritage has been wine country needs is more winemakers to come and live here a mixed blessing, though, as winemakers have scorned the local rather than commuting from Santiago. Only that way will this land País and Moscatel – until recently. Work by Marcelo Retamal at reveal just how great its wines can be. De Martino and Fernando Almeda at Torres is helping champion these formerly downtrodden varieties, and the small-holders who Star varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir faithfully tend them. More plantings are going on, especially near Star producers: SoldeSol, William Fèvre, Altos las Gredas the coast. It’s a big prediction, but I reckon that in the next decade Itata could be one of Chile’s most exciting wine regions. Others The one thing you can always rely on in Chile is novelty. Seemingly Star varieties: Moscatel, Cinsault, País every time I visit or talk to someone I hear of a new wine project Star producers: De Martino, Miguel Torres, Zaranda, García & pushing back the compass point in one or other direction. Schwaderer On the one hand, this is healthy. Chile is still in the process of self- discovery and, being one of the most naturally diverse wine nations on earth, it will take time for it to work out where best to make each wine style.

On the other, Chile should be wary of innovation for innovation’s sake. New projects need commitment – of time, money and patience – to weed out inevitable mistakes and spend time perfecting the promise.

In the north, Ayllu is an eye-opening wine from the heart of the desiccated Atacama Desert (Region II) at 2,350m altitude near Toconao; further plantings in the area are planned. Ventisquero has set aside some hectares for vines in Huasco (Region III), where Sauvignon and Chardonnay look promising.

In the south, Casa Silva has installed vineyards near Lago Ranco (Region X) and a new Pinot Noir is due imminently. Undurraga’s fearless Rafael Urrejola used his father’s knowledge of cherry tree cultivation to parachute in some Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir Bío Bío (1,715 hectares) vines to what might be one of the southernmost vineyards in the This is Chile’s verdant, violent south. Rolling hills are thick with world, at 46°S near the ice fields in Chile Chico (Region XI). The forest, the mighty Bío Bío river runs swollen and blue over granite, wines are invigorating. slate and limestone. There is a rebellious, creative, stubborn streak to the local character, similar to that found in Concepción I salute the pioneers taking on the challenge. Chile is an extraordinary (perhaps fostered by the long Mapuche resistance to centralised country blessed with kaleidoscopic geographical and vinous power in Santiago). In short, it’s the perfect place to make wine. So potential. Future generations of winemakers will be in their debt. 20 21 CHILE more in line with 2010 and 2011 – ie long, coolish seasons – but with one important difference: rain. WINE Heavy rain events in December followed by humid, coolish BRIEF conditions had a decisive impact on the vintage. Plant vigour exploded and yields rose (the water having swollen berry sizes: average bunch weights in one Casablanca Sauvignon vineyard moving from 90g to 140g). Fungal disease became a major risk. The phenological process, including ripening, was delayed by up to three weeks and some higher yielding vineyards struggled to ripen at all.

Harvests were uniformly late, albeit in relatively dry, amenable conditions. Successful growers were those who started off the season with low-yielding vines, managed the disease risk well and 2013 waited for the right time to harvest. This was a particularly cool year for San Antonio (including Leyda) so expect some vivid wines from this coastal region. VINTAGE The 2013 wines are marked by bright acidity, relatively low alcohol and well defined fresh fruit. Quality looks to be variable but, in those cases where the vineyards were well managed, there is the potential for some outstanding wine, especially in the whites REPORT and early reds like Pinot Noir. Some growers report slightly less concentrated styles than 2010 and 2011, especially in the longer cycle reds like Cabernet and Carmenere, with the latter often struggling to reach fully maturity. Nevertheless, some past ‘It was the season of Light, it was have shown that working these varieties to their limits, and precisely not falling into excess, can produce excellent results. the season of Darkness’ Time will tell.

Charles Dickens, The one significant exception to almost all of the above was the north. Limarí suffered yet another year of drought (recorded A Tale of Two Cities rainfall during this season was 0mm). While aridity is expected in this semi-desert area, apparently some vineyards were simply left to wither this year, which is disturbing news. Other than that, It was once said of Chile that, being a viticultural paradise, all conditions were relatively warm and the harvest was early (in some vintages were largely homogenous and equally good. The rule parts up to three weeks earlier than 2012). no longer holds (if it ever did). There is now significant vintage variation notable in Chilean wines as the country’s vineyard Thumbnail guides to a few previous vintages spreads into marginal territory at all points of the compass and winemakers are ever more sensitive and experienced when 2012 processing their fruit. Torrid summer heat led to one of the earliest harvests of recent times. Whites (especially Sauvignon Blanc) and early reds suffer The following is an appraisal of the 2013 vintage written in August from a lack of freshness. 2013. Given the harvest ended in May and all the wines tasted are unfinished, these remarks are necessarily anticipatory. However, 2011 this report is compiled on the back of extensive conversations with The second La Niña-affected year in a row, like 2010 this was a winemakers and tank sample tastings, as well as a digest of official relatively late season that gave very good results in whites and reds. reports. Chile’s wines (especially its fine ones) are increasingly marked by vintage variation on a regional basis so it makes sense to have a digestible overview of the latest one here. 2010 Long, dry, relatively cool vintage which gave excellent whites and ‘Curious’ is one of the better summations of the 2013 vintage well defined reds. I’ve heard (thanks Sebastián Warnier of Santa Rita). It certainly seems to be a mixed bag, and not just in terms of results but also 2009 regionality. After the torrid heat of 2012, conditions in 2013 were Warm year that gave rich, ripe styles of red. 22 23 CHILE PRODUCER RANKINGS WINE BRIEF

TOP TEN PRODUCERS * Aristos * Bodegas RE * Casa Marín * Concha y Toro * Cono Sur PRODUCERS * De Martino I think it’s important to focus on * Falernia/Mayu producers. It allows a different * García & Schwaderer (Bravado) kind of insight into the dynamics of the Chilean wine scene that * Viña Leyda tasting notes alone can’t provide. * Undurraga

That said, this is not an Similarly, my producer exhaustive overview of and winemaker rankings Chilean wine producers. are meant to be discussion Ten to watch Ten best value Star winemakers It’s a personal selection points rather than of those wineries which definitive classifications. * Apaltagua * Concha y Toro * Francisco Baettig (Errázuriz) I feel are most worthy of They are based on recent * Calyptra * Cono Sur * Ricardo Baettig (Morandé) attention and comment, performance and I expect * Clos des Fous * Errázuriz * Giorgio Flessati (Falernia) based on extensive tasting, them to change from year * Lapostolle (‘icon’ wines not * Andrea León (Lapostolle) research and often personal to year – though it will be * Matetic withstanding) * François Massoc (Calyptra) visits and meetings with instructive to note which * Montsecano * Falernia/Mayu * Pablo Morandé (RE) winemakers. Any criticism producers and winemakers * Morandé * Miguel Torres * Viviana Navarrete (Viña Leyda) is constructive in intent. sustain a presence. * Nativa * Pérez Cruz * Marcelo Retamal (De Martino) All producers are listed * Santa Carolina * Quintay * Rodrigo Soto (Veramonte) in alphabetical order * Volcanes de Chile * Santa Alicia * Rafael Urrejola (Undurraga) * Viña Leyda (including in the top ten * Volcanes de Chile rankings). 24 25 PRODUCERS PRODUCERS

Ayllu (Atacama) vintner Louis-Michel Liger- – all vivid, structured wines Casas del Bosque Concha y Toro (Maipo) PRODUCERS a-Z It may be a whim, but I wanted Belair and terroir consultant marked by the refreshing (Casablanca) The leviathan of Chilean wine to include this name because Pedro Parra). The Aristos presence of the icy Pacific just Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and, for many years now, I think it’s important. There Chardonnay and Calyptra four kilometres away. Pinot and sweet Riesling are the its most reliable and high- is precedent for winemaking Sauvignon Blanc are bravura Noir has, to my mind, been the stand-outs here – consistently profile ambassador. Although Aquitania & SoldeSol in the heart of the Atacama examples of what this site and one weak spot in the portfolio rewarding wines made in the I know many (often smaller (Maipo & Malleco) Desert and now it is being winemaker are capable of; the – often simply too oaky, charry cool, blustery hills of western scale) winemakers disagree, I have great respect for Felipe revived. At nearly 2,500m reds to date have been less and beefy when it needs Casablanca by live-wire Kiwi I firmly believe that Chile is de Solminihac, one of Chile’s altitude, in one of the driest persuasive. elegance and restraint. The winemaker Grant Phelps. lucky to have Concha. It’s not most modest yet quietly places on earth, tiny quantities new Tierras Blancas vineyard, easy selling 13.6 million cases influential winemakers. To of this earthy, gritty, homespun Carmen (Maipo) over limestone soils, may of consistently decent wine my mind, his most interesting red are made from 400 Winemaker and inveterate provide some different raw every year round the world wines are not those he makes hitherto unidentified vines in surfer Sebastian Labbé may material to work with. This (the wider group sells over 30 under the Aquitania banner Toconao. The plantation was look like an action-hero particular success story is still million), and growing value at in Maipo (although the Lazuli part of a social aid project but he displays a notable in the telling. an annual average of 18%, but Cabernet does age gracefully). by miners Soquimich and sensitivity in his winemaking. they do. They’ve also more or That distinction goes to the INDAP; Professor Alvaro Carmen’s wines have improved Casa Silva (Colchagua) less managed to keep up with SoldeSol wines he makes on Peña was drafted in, as was immensely as a result of his A combination of determined the frantic pace of innovation the in-laws’ land in Traiguén terroir consultant Pedro Parra. influence – his experience commercial nous and savvy, around them: always a – structured, restrained Although Parra jokingly dubs includes winemaking in ambitious winemaking challenge for a big producer Chardonnay and sappy Pinot this ‘ground zero winemaking’, New Zealand and he wants characterises Casa Silva. in a wine scene as dynamic as Noir. both see potential here and to define the Carmen style as Some years back, the wines Chile’s. My one criticism is that have gently helped improve fresh, drinkable wine styles were pretty soulless. But then Concha has tremendous assets from cool-climate areas. ‘The Aristos (Cachapoal) basic hygiene and wine began an intriguing process and could use them better. south will be key for the future A gold-plated joint venture growing practices. More of renovation and change, It has hugely talented, loyal of Chile,’ he boldly declares between Vosne-Romanée growers are now coming on perhaps typified best by the Clos des Fous (Cachapoal) winemakers who need more as we taste some excellent, producer Louis-Michel board and there are plans to three-year Micro Terroir As the name suggests, liberty to experiment, innovate invigorating Malbec and Liger-Belair and two former plant at up to 3,500 metres in study in conjunction with the experimentation is the order and express themselves freely Carignan from Maule. Labbe is primary school colleagues Talabre, where limestone soils University of Talca researching of the day here. But happily on an international stage. It a young but experienced head from Concepción who have abound and the air is even sites across Colchagua. The these are wines that aim has top-notch vineyards (eg in prepared to take risks and gone onto great things: gifted more parched and breathless. main result, in addition to a decidedly for under- rather Pirque and Puente Alto) which innovate. This bodes well for winemaker François Massoc few useful headlines, has been than over-statement. Pared- cry out to be made into elegant, Carmen. and highly regarded terroir Bodegas RE – see RE a transformation in the quality back elegance is the aim, eloquent wine but which consultant Pedro Parra. The of Carmenere, especially from unoaked Chardonnay too often are made into safe, Casa Marín (San Antonio) from the Los Lingues site in international, glossy, rich reds. ambition and skill behind this Bravado – see García & to earthy Cab and juicy project was announced in One of Chile’s few consistently eastern Colchagua, which blends such as the Caquenina In short, a bit more freedom some style with the sensational Schwaderer outstanding producers. Just now regularly produces (featuring Malbec, Carignan, for the various Major Toms Duquesa d’A Chardonnay like her wines, owner Mariluz some of this country’s best País, Carmenere, Syrah and from Ground Control could 2008. The Cabernet has Calyptra (Cachapoal) Marín polarises people. But Carmenere: expressive, ‘Portugais Bleu’) from the see Concha being even more never quite reached the same There are two keys to sometimes you need a bit of rounded and complex yet fresh south. The formulae still successful in the long-term. heights – it’s a bit too rich for understanding Calyptra. uncompromising, indomitable and lifted. The development need perfecting – the wines my liking. The fruit for Aristos The first is the high-altitude spirit in wine. Mariluz has and promotion of cool sites in aren’t quite there yet, though Cono Sur (Colchagua) has hitherto mainly been vineyards in Cachapoal, now been joined by her western Colchagua is also a the Chardonnay is already It hardly seems like 20 years sourced from Alto Cachapoal which produce naturally son Felipe, who as well as credit to Casa Silva (the Cool impressive. Nonetheless, this is since Cono Sur was first (see Calyptra) but the idea fresh, characterful wines. The helping out with the classic Coast Sauvignon Blanc is zingy a producer growing in repute. founded as an offshoot of is to diversify in future, second is inspired winemaker wines has developed a new and attractive; the new Pinot is Keep an eye on its on-going Concha y Toro with a brief perhaps using Pinot from François Massoc, one of line Viñedos Lo Abarca, a work in progress). Now there work with Pinot from sites as to be eclectic and dynamic. recently planted vineyards in Chile’s true talents – intuitive, focusing on Sauvignon and is a new fizz (Fervor) and plans diverse as Aconcagua Costa, But 2013 marks the 20th Penco, near Concepción, and impassioned and imaginative. Pinot initially (with Syrah to for a new Pinot Noir from the Malleco and Bío Bío. It is also anniversary of what has Chardonnay from Traiguén. The site is also used as a be added). Sauvignon Blanc, family stud farm in Futrono, starting to make some hugely matured into one of Chile’s Prices are fiercely high. A lot source for Aristos and Clos Riesling, Sauvignon Gris, Lago Ranco (around 900 kms promising Malbec from old, most reliable and best value is expected of Aristos in the des Fous wines (Massoc works Gewürztraminer and Syrah south of Santiago). dry-farmed vines in Bío Bío producers. Genial winemaker future. closely with Burgundian are regularly brilliant here near Concepción. Adolfo Hurtado has placed 26 27 PRODUCERS PRODUCERS an unashamed (and laudable) also a well fed winemaker: unashamed to say he prefers García & Schwaderer Laberinto – Ribera del The 2011s were a step up emphasis on Pinot Noir – so insisting on joining growers Old World to New World (Casablanca) Lago (Maule) from the already impressive much so that the winery for barbecues to keep the wines. Recently, he’s been Take two very talented Tousle-haired winemaker debut 2010s – and the 2013s crushed 4.5 million kilograms ‘personal connection’.) Projects working with Vosne-Romanée winemakers (young enough Rafael Tirado started this even more exciting. This from of Pinot in 2013, nearly as range from breathless high- producer Louis-Michel Liger- – but experienced enough), private venture in 1993 with a winery that has made its much as its 5 million kg of altitude vineyards in upper Belair, which has ‘put us on marry them for constant his father-in-law, who had a name on the back of ripe, safe, Cabernet. In a nation as Cab- Elqui to blustery hillsides the right track’, says Baettig. creative tension, stir in a bit of holiday home overlooking the powerful wine styles crafted dominant as Chile, this is quite in Itata, which produce the Increasingly (and laudably) Burgundian sojourning – and Colbún reservoir in eastern under the influence of globe- something – indeed, Cono celebrated ‘natural’ Viejas his wines are starting to you have a very potent mix. Maule. ‘We wanted to make trotting consultant Michel Sur may be one of the world’s Tinajas wines. All of this has reflect this, from textured, Felipe García and Constanza decent wine,’ comments Rolland. Welcome change is biggest growers of Pinot transformed De Martino into mineral Sauvignon Blanc Schwaderer are on form right Tirado, ‘but with total liberty clearly afoot, a fact reinforced with its 400 ha of plantings. one of Chile’s most rewarding to haunting Pinot, peppery now and have the talent and to experiment and get it by the entrance this summer Hurtado also makes excellent producers. Retamal may not Syrah and deftly rendered skills to become one of Chile’s wrong.’ Such free-thinking of new general manager Riesling, Gewürztraminer, come across as a natural risk- Mediterranean-style blends, headlining acts. Felipe coaxes spirit even led them to plant Charles de Bournet, son of Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. taker but you under-estimate both red and white. Although brilliance out of Sauvignon a vineyard in the shape of a owner Alexandre Marnier Being hyper critical, the wines his passion at your peril. An this programme has begun Blanc while Connie makes labyrinth (hence the name) Lapostolle. Lapostolle has can sometimes be a bit safe inveterate rocker (the ripped with Wild Ferment, Aconcagua very elegant Pinot (‘I don’t – partly for the different excellent resources, including when, for example, Pinot jeans and long hair have long Costa and The Blend brands, expect big scores,’ she says, exposures but also as a playful 370 hectares of organic and really needs thrill and sex gone, though), he is a die-hard I’d love to see the ‘less is ‘I just want to make a wine form of natural art and to biodynamic vineyard. It appeal to be great. Nothing Iron Maiden fan and his more’ philosophy rolled out I like to drink: fresh, with challenge the order imposed on now needs to invest in its that a bit of fine-tuning in the favourite quote of theirs is: ‘If encompass Errázuriz icons character’). Both are friends the vine, which Tirado views future and trust its younger vineyard and greater liberty you’re gonna die, die with your including Don Max, Seña and with Burgundian producer as a naturally chaotic plant. generation. for the winemakers can’t boots on.’ Viñedo Chadwick. For now, Benjamin Leroux – they visit (Tirado also notes that he’s had resolve. progress remains steady and every year for harvest and some of the most important encouraging. make a decent Vougeot too. chats with his kids amid this De Martino (Maipo) New reds from the south vinous labyrinth.) The fresh Marcelo Retamal is one of Falernia/Mayu (Elqui) (Itata, Cauquenes) also look conditions and volcanic soils Chile’s most thoughtful, This over-achieving northern very promising. Comments give fresh, structured wines informed and insightful outpost continues to excite. Its Connie: ‘With all our wines, – the standout so far has winemakers. De Martino – and vivid, scented and spicy Syrah we’re thinking: how will been the intense, inscrutable, Chile – are lucky to have him. has become a Chilean classic they work on the dinner ageworthy Sauvignon Blanc. Retamal saved De Martino (it makes many labels – all table?’ Although there is ongoing marital debate about from a future of bland, ripe are worth trying, though to Lapostolle (Colchagua) the brand name moving Central Valley wines by my mind the Syrah from the Edith Piaf’s famous ‘Je ne forwards (Bravado? García implementing an audacious more coastal Titón vineyard regrette rien’ was playing y Schwaderer?), this is a key plan in 2011 to eschew is the best). Tangy, pungent tellingly as I chatted and producer to watch. With Andrea Leon of Lapostolle standardisation and prioritise Sauvignon Blanc is also a tasted with Andrea León, the Chile’s terroir and viticultural house staple. But it’s good to rising star of the Lapstolle legacy by harvesting earlier, see winemaker Giorgio Flessati Koyle (Colchagua) (and Chilean) wine firmament. Louis-Antoine Luyt (Maule) abandoning new oak barrels, refusing to rest on his laurels Biodynamic producer based I’d just tasted her 2013 wines Something of a restless cultured yeasts and enzymes, Tasting with Marcelo Retamal (this impassioned, hugely in Colchagua’s eastern from – stunning Apalta searcher, Luyt came to Chile and embracing tinaja clay pots. talented man is incapable of reaches, formed after the Mourvedre and Petit Verdot, from his native in Of course, such actions count stasis in any case). Recently Undurraga family were Elqui Grenache and Maule (Aconcagua) the late 1990s and swiftly for little if you don’t know the Errázuriz I’ve tasted new Torontel, ousted from their eponymous Carignan – and we were ‘Chile needs identity,’ muses progressed from dish-washing terroirs in question and have Riesling, PX, Pinot Noir and winery by the Colombian working through her inspired winemaker Francisco Baettig, to wine production. Inspired a very precise and detailed Malbec. The latter is probably Picciotto clan. Reds are Collection wines, a series of ‘but everything has to start by the work of Jacques viticultural programme. the best so far but, while the impressive and characterful and Carmenères which from the wine.’ We are Lardière and Marcel Lapierre This is why Retamal has others are works in progress, but can sometimes be over- showcase the terroir diversity talking big picture stuff over in France, and decrying been working closely with they all show good potential. done. The new Paredones of Chile. The accent was on sweetbreads and Pinot. Baettig the ‘homogenous’ styles of plant physiologist Dr Claudio Most importantly, they’re all Sauvignon Blanc is a welcome freshness and unadorned, is a notorious Francophile (his Chilean wine at the time, Pastene, and drives thousands refreshingly different from the diversification for the honest wine that talked of its wife is French and he has a Luyt headed south to make of kilometres round Chile’s Chilean norm. portfolio, the 2011 better than variety and vineyard location. highways every year. (He’s cellar there) and is refreshingly the 2012. wines with a difference. It’s 28 29 PRODUCERS PRODUCERS a task he’s still engaged in – Matetic (San Antonio) – but lately the hit rate has good to see some renovation Morandé (Cachapoal) Neyen – see Veramonte delighting and dismaying in After a period off the boil, been better. What’s more, afoot, though – Cabernet Another producer undergoing equal measure – but always Matetic looks set to return real interest has been injected Sauvignon used to account an exciting renaissance. Odfjell(Maipo) with the accent on natural to form. In 2012 the winery into the portfolio by the for 60% of Montes’ Apalta Owned by financial group Red wine specialist based in viticulture and minimal re-formed its original ‘A-team’ company’s project reviving plantings, now that’s down to Empresas Juan Yarur, Maipo whose most exciting intervention. While quality can that made such stunning Chile’s heritage grape varieties. 30% - a welcome development rather than the eponymous work is happening in the south be variable, these are wines wines, especially Syrah, in This includes the much because Apalta suits more winemaker (who still with the likes of Carignan, with an uncompromising and the early vintages from 2001. derided País (Mission) variety, Mediterranean varieties. The consults), Morandé is now Malbec and Tannat. The wines indomitable spirit (like the Winemaker Julio Bastías has a previously sidelined for local Outer Limits range is showing in the very capable hands of rarely lack for character but man himself) and, as such, are wealth of consulting expertise plonk but now championed a bit of innovative spark, and Ricardo Baettig, who made could often do with more valuable contributions to the to call on, from Rodrigo Soto by Torres very successfully in on my recent visit I tasted wine in for eight years. elegance, freshness and Chilean wine scene. to Alan York and Pedro Parra. both pink fizz (Estelado) and some interesting samples of He has been given liberty restraint. The winery has developed juicy, vibrant red (Reserva nippy Zapallar Pinot, dry- to push boundaries and is Luis Felipe Edwards promising new vineyard sites de Pueblo) formats. The new farmed Marchihue Syrah doing so to very good effect Days of Summer Muscat from and juicy Itata Cinsault. Such Pérez Cruz (Maipo) (Colchagua) in Valle Hermoso (closer to – making provocative and Itata is also a triumph: exotic innovations, together with the Commendable and reliable There is a ruthless commercial the coast in Casablanca) for rewarding wines, especially and invigorating. News from winery’s focus on reducing red-wine specialist. Under the focus at LFE that doesn’t whites and Pinot and Santo in the Edición Limitada range. winemaker Fernando Almeda alcohol levels, should be fast- considered eye of winemaker always sit easily with the fine Tomás for Syrah. Organic Acacia fudres, concrete eggs, is that learning to coax quality tracked. Germán Lyon, the wines have wine aspirations. Nonetheless, and biodynamic certification Chardonnay on skins – it all out of such varieties has led been evolving very nicely. Over ambitious plans are afoot. is slowly being put in place. happens here, and Baettig to a wholesale change in the three quarters of production New Zealander Matt Thomson Matetic is a producer abuzz Montsecano (Casablanca) has a taste for refreshing, way the more classic vineyards is Cabernet Sauvignon, has just been hired to consult with ideas and potential. This small, biodynamic Pinot food-friendly wines from are managed, in the search with other bits including on whites and Pinot (LFE producer in coastal Casablanca his Italian experience. In the for balance and complexity. Carmenere, Cot (Malbec) and is doing promising things Maycas del Limarí has a bright future. Alsace pipeline is an old-vine Malbec This is very good news. Also Petit Verdot. The wines reflect in Leyda on this front). In producer André Ostertag aims from Pencahue that’s looking (Limarí) heartening is the news we may their Alto Maipo terroir but 2012 the winery bought 700 to make ‘clear, pure’ wines very special – the same fruit It’s great to see Concha y Toro’s soon be seeing the first proper are increasingly balanced and hectares in Pumanque, coastal (his Muenchberg Riesling is is also being used in a new northern division continuing wine from the ambitious fresh. Colchagua, and also planted a bravura case in point). But joint venture with Argentine to consolidate. But I still feel Empedrado vineyard on steep 400 hectares in Maule the year this hasn’t always been the winemaker Matías Michelini. they could take more risks slate soils in coastal Maule, Quintay (Casablanca) before. Hillside plantations case with this, his Chilean and provide a bit more thrill announced to much fanfare Worthwhile Casablanca at the winery’s Colchagua venture with Chilean partners factor. Chardonnay continues but which has since been beset Nativa (Maipo) producer making some very base continue and now including local grower Julio to be the strong suit here, most by problems (bird attacks, Young winemaker Felipe decent Sauvignon, Pinot and include Grenache, Malbec and Donoso. The 2011 wines were notably in the intense, rich wrong varieties). By way of Ramírez is doing exciting Syrah. Tempranillo. The wines often pretty wild, rustic to the point yet structured and savoury criticism, I wish Torres would things at Nativa, paring speak of great raw materials of going feral – too much, to my Quebrada Seca and Reserva champion its Chilean identity the wines back to focus on Ribera del Lago – see somewhat smothered by mind – so from 2012 André and Especial wines. The Pinots, and credentials more (the freshness and imbuing them over-ambition and heavy- Julio are working harder and Laberinto while promising, need more labels tend to be very wordy, with a vivacity and focus they handedness. There is gold cleaner to ensure this isn’t the work: they often have enticing bland and international), had previously lacked. His here; it just needs refining. case again (though they’re still Bodegas RE (Casablanca) aromatics but then lack especially the areas from Cabernet and Carmenere is not filtering and fining). ‘When A revelation. RE has exploded cohesion, grace and core focus. which the wines are sourced. particularly successful and A new you work naturally, there’s he’s even making a ‘nouveau’ onto the Chilean wine scene; Chardonnay/Pinot fizz is in always a risk,’ comments style of Syrah, principally for things will never be the development too. Montes (Colchagua) Ostertag. ‘I don’t want wines the Japanese market, picked same again. The wines are To my mind, Montes has gone that are boring; boring wines early and with no MLF. It’s fiercely eclectic: white, flor- Mayu – see Falernia too far in staking its reputation are dead wines.’ The 2012s are audacious and inspired, if not aged Pinot Noir and Syrah on the basis of predictably looking very good – vibrant particularly successful in my co-fermented with Pinot are corpulent, generous reds and with a characteristic view (Cinsault or País might two examples. The winery like Purple Angel, Folly and florality and earthy, savoury have been a better choice of is like a subterranean coven, (Curicó) M. Such wines are fine to a tannin that is so appealing – grape variety). But great to bristling with gigantic concrete Torres Chile has a pretty certain extent – albeit not albeit a bit hot on the finish, see new ideas and exciting eggs and buried clay tinaja catholic portfolio – some to my taste – but the risk is which was perhaps the result of life breathed back into this pots. Overseeing this inspired things work, others don’t it stymies innovation and a warm vintage. Expect better producer’s wines. venture is Pablo Morandé, a development elsewhere. It’s things to come. Chilean wine industry titan 30 31 PRODUCERS PRODUCERS who was the first to develop was inspiration provided by Pinot Noir, Limarí Chardonnay major on freshness and food- now 13 wines in the T.H. range Veramonte (Casablanca) Casablanca for viticulture in wines like these that led Santa and Apalta Carmenère. friendliness. If this happens (one of the best in Chile now), The arrival in 2012 of the the 1980s and is now enjoying Carolina to embark on this then the likes of Carmenere, the winery has eight estates brilliant Rodrigo Soto from a new lease of life as a genial, programme with input from Seña – see Errázuriz Syrah, Chardonnay and rather than the four of 2008, Benziger in California (and booming-voiced agitator Californian ampelographer Malbec will have a bright and Urrejola is now in charge Matetic, prior to that) was for innovation in Chilean Andy Walker focusing on future here. of steering this 15-million- a fillip for Veramonte. But wine. ‘Chile has tremendous heritage vine stock, harvested SoldeSol – see Aquitania litre titan into the future. It’s there is much to be done. possibilities to reveal early and made with minimal Tara – see Ventisquero looking bright. Urrejola is a Initial signs are that Soto fascinating, unique wines, intervention. The result is Tabalí (Limarí) firm adherent to the ‘less is is working hard to inject very far from the regular the Luis Pereira wine; I tried Tabalí has exciting projects more’ philosophy, preferring some life and vibrancy to the Terranoble (Maule) supermarket commodities,’ a sample of the 2012 vintage, happening right across Limarí. to use concrete eggs or large Sauvignons and Pinots, at Some quiet yet industrious he enthuses. Day-to-day which was quite beautiful in its In the far east, it has just vats over oak barrels, and the same time as instigating work has been taking place at winemaker is his son, also refreshing, juicy, leafy honesty harvested the first fruit from also an inspired innovator. sustainable vineyard practices this Maule outpost, to excellent Pablo Morandé, who looks and elegant persistence. ‘I had its high-altitude Río Hurtado His latest project is to plant and more focused viticulture effect. Ignacio Conca is one of after the balsamic vinegar, to break through so many vineyards – I tasted some Pinot and Sauvignon in Chile (he’s brought Alan York and Chile’s lesser seen winemakers fruit liqueurs and blanc de barriers to make this wine,’ impressively crunchy Malbec Chico, over 2,000 kms south Pedro Parra in to consult too). but he talks eminent sense and noirs fizz in addition to the sighed Caballero, ‘but we are and vivid Carmenere (albeit in of Santiago, at 46° one of the For Veramonte to make real has a deft touch with reds from growing and impressive wine doing some really interesting nascent stages). In the coastal most southerly vineyards progress, it needs to give Soto big-boned Colchagua reds to portfolio. RE is like Mr Hyde things.’ It’s to be hoped that west it has the chalky Talinay in the world. Initial results free rein to revive this once elegant Casablanca Pinot. to Chile’s Dr Jekyll: it’s wild such encouraging innovation is vineyard, where Sauvignon are promising, even if it’s a mighty brand. New, more and libertarian. Some may find allowed to inform the broader Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir labour of love making wine in coastal sites might need to it scary. In reality, it’s hugely winemaking approach. and Syrah are showing good Tunquén (Casablanca) this wind-whipped, isolated be acquired. It should leave entertaining. And delicious. potential. Despite the obvious Relatively new venture by two outpost. Undurraga’s new Colchagua to its new sister Santa Rita (Maipo) talents of winemaker Felipe married Brazilian winemakers sub-brand Volcanes de Chile, winery Neyen and aim to craft Santa Rita is far from being Müller and viticulturist Hector making small-production under the control of talented elegant reds from its stunning Chile’s most dynamic producer Rojas, however, I must confess reds and Sauvignon Blanc winemaker Pilar Díaz, is also eastern Casablanca site. but there are encouraging to being a little frustrated not in Casablanca. From initial looking very promising. signs at this Maipo stalwart. to have seen more knockout tastings, the wines seem Australian consultant Brian wines, especially from Talinay, to have laudable aims Ventisquero (Colchagua) Croser has re-energised the given the initial promise. Some (individuality, freshness) but A large-scale winery with a team, encouraging freshness of the wines, although fresh don’t quite deliver. A work in talented winemaking team and minimal intervention since and characterful, have seemed progress. under Felipe Tosso. The wines he joined in 2009 (tellingly, to err on the side of caution have tended to be a bit too safe, this is his only consultancy). and soft edges where some Undurraga (Maipo) ripe and predictable for my While the wider portfolio is swashbuckling, rapier-like Exciting times at one of Chile’s taste in recent years, but there decent but fairly steady – Casa character is called for. Perhaps most venerable producers. are signs of change. Detailed Pablo Morande of Bodegas RE Real and Medalla Real Cabs I’m just being impatient. In 2013, Rafael Urrejola vineyard work is leading stand out – the new vineyards Things haven’t been helped – one of Chile’s very best, to wines with more finesse in Pumanque, coastal by the recent, untimely death most sensitive winemakers (though this emphasis could Santa Carolina (Maipo) Colchagua, are starting to of owner Guillermo Luksic; I – was appointed head of be taken further, especially in A somewhat pedestrian produce some very promising wish his son Nicolás the best. winemaking. This is great Apalta) and Casablanca Pinot Enrique Villalobos portfolio has been enlightened Cabernet Franc and Syrah. news not just for Undurraga is also showing good potential. by an R&D programme What’s more, a new range Tamaya (Limarí) but also Chile. Back in 2006, The Tara project in uncharted focusing on pre- is soon to emerge focusing A producer that shows I singled out Undurraga for territory in Huasco, north of Villalobos (Colchagua) clones which aims to revive on ‘balance, fruit, terroir glimpses of brilliance harsh criticism, labelling the Elqui, also provides much What a story. Sculptor Enrique traditional styles of Chilean and freshness – a change of but remains somewhat wines, ‘bland and formulaic’ needed levity and esoteric Villalobos makes arresting, red. I tasted a quite stunning mentality inspired by Brian,’ inconsistent, which is and recommending sweeping interest to the portfolio: tangy massive works for South 1967 Estrella de Oro Cabernet according to winemaker frustrating. The new ‘T’ line change. Urrejola came on Sauvignon Blanc and complex, America’s public spaces but from Macul vineyards (sadly Andrés Ilabaca. A sneak shows the ambition here but board in 2008, starting with edgy Chardonnay have been had little interest in the vines long since concreted over preview of this new range needs more fine-tuning (and two wines in the new T.H. the best of this tiny-production growing wild around his under Santiago’s urban sprawl) revealed some very promising, a ‘less is more’ mentality) (‘terroir hunter’) range. The venture so far. house and studio in rural with head winemaker Andres and notably lively, gastronomic to come into its own. To my wines, and Urrejola, went Ranguili, near Lolol in coastal Caballero and the team. It Leyda Sauvignon Blanc and mind, Tamaya’s best bet is to down so well that there are Colchagua. Then along came 32 33 PRODUCERS CHILE a young French winemaker, Malbec, Syrah, Grenache and the Cajón del Maipo at up to WINE Matthieu Rousseau, who Mourvedre look like they will 1,000m altitude. Results are BRIEF encouraged Enrique’s sons, prove to be the stars here. promising (especially with Rolando and Martín, to make the Chardonnay) but it’s still some wine. Though Rousseau Viña Leyda (San Antonio) early days. Further interest sadly died in a traffic accident One of Chile’s standout comes courtesy of another shortly after the first wine producers, not just for the project in Malleco, on land was made, the new release quality of its wines but also belonging to the winery’s caused great commotion and its consistency and value owners the Pino family, excitement in Chilean wine for money. Viña Leyda put featuring promising Pinot circles. The five hectares of its eponymous wine district Noir – and altogether less vines are thought to have been on the map (together with convincing Sauvignon Blanc planted under government the broader San Antonio (Riesling, Gewürztraminer and incentive schemes in the 1940s appellation, of which Leyda Chardonnay are also planted). and 50s, ‘are Carignan as far is a part). Its founders were One to watch. WINES as anyone can ascertain’, says the first to bring water to the Enrique, and grow wild up area, via an eight-kilometre Zaranda (Itata) rosehip, culenes, pines, boldos, pipeline from the Not a producer you’re likely to maitenes and blackberry – an investment that has since see much outside of Chile (just bushes, as they have done, paid handsome dividends. yet), this is nonetheless a name forgotten, for half a century. The company now forms worth noting. A revived family I’ve tasted over a thousand There is no pruning, except part of the broader San Pedro vineyard in Guarilihue, coastal by the horses. ‘It’s chaos,’ Tarapacá group but talented Itata, the vines are old and dry- Chilean wines in the last few comments Enrique, ‘but winemaker Viviana Navarrete farmed Muscat, Cinsault and we want minimal human seems to enjoy relative País. These are honest country months. The 130-odd that follow intervention – we want to autonomy, crafting punchy wines – vins de soif, with prove we can work with Sauvignon Blanc, elegant zesty, tangy, earthy flavours constitute the headline acts. the earth, let it give what it Sauvignon Gris, stylish Pinot – made with assistance from gives, and make it profitable. Noir, sensational Syrah as well winemaker François Massoc That doesn’t mean they’re all fancy wines. Quite the opposite in We’re conservationists.’ The as doing good work with the some cases. It would be boring to champion the accepted classics wine is as refreshing as the likes of Riesling, Chardonnay, and, in any case, these often aren’t the wines that appeal to me. intentions: unadorned, fresh- Gewurztraminer and other I’ve grown tired of glossy, high-octane wines that tick boxes but fruited with wild herb notes: . There’s even a new leave me cold. I want a wine to excite me, to refresh and intrigue elegant country wine. For now, fizz. Recent plantings promise me, wines that have me reaching for a plate of food rather than a Rolando and Martín still hold better things to come, too. defibrillator. Good value wines are also important to champion down their day jobs and joke (I take price into account when judging: there’s even the odd that they keep their father as supermarket own-label in here). In short, these are wines that are William Fèvre (Maipo) their ‘slave in the countryside.’ rewarding, appetizing and have something to say for themselves. After years of slightly They all seem pretty happy. predictable winemaking, WF The tastings were conducted in Chile and the UK, either during Chile is coming back to life. meetings with winemakers or at tastings. The latter took place both Volcanes de Chile – see This was partly the result of at my house (with the much valued input of my wife and fellow Undurraga work by winemaker Felipe Master of Wine, Susie) and in more rigorous blind tasting scenarios Uribe – so it was disappointing (eg panel tastings and World Wine Awards). Often I have to see him leave recently – Viu Manent (Colchagua) tasted the same wine both blind and sighted – ultimately, I find that and consultant Pedro Parra. The staple of this historic doing both and cross-referencing is the best way to evaluate wine. Colchagua winery has been The aim has been to promote freshness in the wines by beefy, inky reds. It still is, I’d like to thank Wines of Chile, Decanter, Susie and the wineries developing vineyards at to a certain extent – though for making these tastings possible winemaker Patricio Celedón is ever greater altitudes in slowly shifting the emphasis Alto Maipo. The winery towards freshness and balance, is based in Pirque and has A word on scoring Scoring wines is like a risqué joke: it needs to be taken with a pinch which is very welcome. been planting vines (mainly Cabernet and Chardonnay) in of salt. 34 35 These scores aren’t definitive pronouncements on a wine’s quality. CHILE WINES Such a notion is absurd. Wine (especially good wine) is a living ***** entity that changes over time, just as tasters do. There is no such WINE thing as total objectivity when it comes to wine. That’s why wonderfully vibrant acidity fresh summer berry fruit numbers, which give that impression, are ill-suited to the job. BRIEF superbly balanced by juicy nose. Grown up. Beautiful ***** fruit succulence. Harmonious, piercing acidity, sappy and That said, some sort of easy-reference quality scale makes things 5 STAR young, ravishing. This will direct. Thirst-quenching and easy to read and understand. This is why I’ve used a 5-star scale, Sensational wines develop well in bottle too. moreish – this represents a with an extra ‘standout’ division within the 4-star category, which new dimension in Chilean (8.5-10/10) would otherwise be over-populated. The ‘4-star standout’ category Matetic EQ Syrah 2007, Pinot. It falls away a tiny bit on the finish – perhaps a thus represents the cream of the 4-star crop. San Antonio, 14% - the best vintage thing – but it’s a heart- vintage of this benchmark Aristos Duquesa d’A thumping wine. The wines are listed in rough order of (descending) preference wine – so far. Matetic is re- within each category. For number-lovers, I also give a rough Chardonnay 2008, forming its ‘A-team’ so expect equivalent for each category on a 10-point scale, which is how I Cachapoal, 14.5% - a new great things to come but for Undurraga T.H. score when I taste. This doesn’t translate easily into the popular dimension for Chilean now this is its high-tide mark: Cabernet Sauvignon 100-point scale, I’m afraid. If it helps, anything over 7/10 is a pretty Chardonnay. Baroque, a dense and brooding yet Pirque, 14% - beautiful special wine as far as I’m concerned. For the sake of (relative) decadent, sumptuous, savoury 2011, super focused, fine and sexy focus, purity and elegance: this conciseness, I’ve only included wines of 3-stars and above. - it blew a decent Montrachet Syrah. Packed full of peppery, wine is becoming one of Chile’s out of the water at a recent savoury, dark fruit flavour finest Cabs, the result of much dinner. Cascading flavours with a svelte, resonant finish. hard work in the vineyard by of toasted nuts, baked red An emotional experience. the Undurraga team. Shows apples, buttered toast and restrained dark berry fruit and fresh morels are harnessed mint notes and lovely silky yet into a precise, invigorating and Santa Carolina Estrella firm texture. uplifting finale. de Oro Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 1967, Macul, RE Velado 2009, 13.2% – stunning. Confounds Calyptra Gran Reserva Casablanca, 14% - a wine that the theory that lighter-bodied Single Vineyard delights and bewilders in Chilean wines can’t age. Sauvignon Blanc 2010, equal measure. Serendipity Haunting tobacco, malty, Cachapoal, 13.5% - complex marks it: Pablo Morandé Sr dried herb aromas. The colour and intense, with a richly relates how some barrels of is amazingly young and the textured yet invigorating Pinot Noir were lost after wine is still vibrant and full flavour profile. There are a the 2010 earthquake. When of life and character. Such a few smart oaked Sauvignons rediscovered, they had a film shame this Macul vineyard has in Chile but to my mind this of yeast growing on them; disappeared under Santiago’s wine leads the charge. It has a My personal preferences Morandé decided to blend concrete sprawl. whiff of Bordeaux’s grapefruit, It doesn’t matter if you’re a Master of Wine or not – we all have them and make this esoteric tangerine rind and mineral personal taste preferences. This is a matter of simple physiology but virtuoso wine that Cousiño Macul Antiguas character but it’s pretty full and psychology. I always try to taste with an open-mind, aware of tastes like a cross between Reservas Cabernet throttle stuff, with preserved my own preferences but sympathetic to others’ too (this process Fino and flat (but lemon, nutty and clotted cream Sauvignon 1998, Maipo, is helped by the fact I usually taste with Susie, so inevitably wonderfully invigorating) complexity. 12.5% - elegant bouquet of discussions ensue). vintage . tobacco, warm gravel and Structured, complex, replete, dried dark fruit. On the palate, Viña Leyda Reserva However, I also think it helps to give context for this brief. My shocking, delicious. preference is for balance above all things. Wine’s first duty is to be refined in texture and resonant Syrah 2011, San Antonio, in flavour, brilliant with ribeye 13.5% - what I love most a refreshing and revitalising drink. An ability to pair with food is Casa Marín Miramar a key hallmark of a fine wine for me. Wines which are impressive steak. An instructive, historic about this wine is the way it San but undrinkable (ie too alcoholic, too rich) do not light my fire. I Riesling 2010, wine. combines amazing freshness Antonio, 12.5% - tasted blind, want intrigue, honesty, refreshment value and complexity. Great with complexity. Notes of I had this as a top , like any great art, provokes an emotional as well as cerebral Errázuriz Wild Ferment roasted meat, dark fruit, black Riesling. Steely, slatey, response. I yearn for that buzz. Pinot Noir 2012, pepper lead into a dense yet smoky aromas combine with refreshing flavour profile that Aconcagua Costa, 13.5% - lime and green apple. The is savoury, elegantly textured really quite pale for Chile, bracing palate profile has and wonderfully persistent. with a lovely sappy floral 36 37 WINES **** WINES **** My high mark also rewards Despite the alcohol level This field blend planted in 13.5% you have to disregard García & Schwaderer Casa Marín Estero this wine’s exceptional (which you don’t notice), 1945 (mainly Malbec, with a the silly heavy bottle and Sofia Pinot Noir 2011 Vineyard Sauvignon consistency and value for it flirts with leanness but bit of Carmenere, Carignan garish label. Because inside... Casablanca, 13.5% - has a levity money. doesn’t fall into angular and Tannat) has always been ah, the scent tumbles out of Gris 2011 Lo Abarca, 13.5% and perfume to it that is quite - a consistently delightful harshness. Instead, it’s packed a high point in the De Martino the glass, creamy cassis, nutty, captivating, and very un- full of sappy, earthy summer portfolio. Now, with the gently resinous. OK, so it’s a bit example of this little-known Chilean. Sappy, earthy, summer grape variety. Rich, honeyed fruit flavours, tense and renewed emphasis on elegance stereotypically Chilean but it’s fruit notes. Savoury, smooth **** invigorating. Grown up Pinot. at the winery, it’s really coming hard not to love, with its dense complexity is offset by brisk and refreshing. ‘It’s from the citric acidity. Spicy but 4 STAR STANDOUT Will benefit from a bit of time into its own. Smoky, creamy fine tannin, fresh acidity, lovely French school,’ says winemaker in bottle too. blue fruit aromatics lead into balance and evolution. With a grounded, with a lovely rich Excellent, Cream of the Connie Schwaderer: picked texture and fresh finish. Great a tense, juicy, resonant flavour bit less richness and heft, this early, fermented using some 4 * Crop (7.8-8.4/10) profile. Precise and superlative. could be great. with smoked mackerel and Mayu Syrah Reserva stems. Bravo. horseradish toasts. 2010 Elqui, 14% - vibrant aromatics and a spicy, layered Marks & Spencer Secano Lapostolle Collection Viña Casablanca RE Chardonnoir 2011 RE Cabergnan 2009 palate profile. This is a wine Estate Sauvignon El Silo Syrah 2011 Elqui, Cefiro Pinot Noir 2012 Maule, 14.5% - as well as Casablanca, 12.7% - Another 12.8% - winemaker Andrea that grins like a Cheshire cat: Gris 2011 San Antonio, Casablanca, 14% the kind of eclectic Casablanca whites, RE challenging, stirring wine from León has coaxed some it has everything you’d expect 13.5% - beguiling, succulent, wine that builds up in effect (and sister brand Viña Roja) RE, a blend of Chardonnay beautifully savoury, lifted of Syrah from its peppery, enveloping wine made by almost exponentially. Subdued does a fine line in old-vine and Pinot Noir matured on flavours of black , black black aromatics to its Viña Leyda in conjunction aromas of smoke, leaf and Maule reds. This is a powerful lees for nearly two years. It’s pepper and fresh meat from nippy acidity and bittersweet, with M&S. Sensational value, undergrowth translate into a but seductively textured comparable to champagne this coastal Elqui Syrah. It’s juniper-infused finish. with flavours of pea pod and gorgeously succulent palate blend of old-vine, dry-farmed without the bubbles – juicy, crisp and invigorating, Benchmark stuff. honeyed citrus, both grippy profile, cogent and winning. Carignan (40%) and Cabernet invigorating in its vital acidity, really food friendly and a and taut yet lush and layered. Soft plush tannic texture, (60%) from Loncomilla. with beautiful baked apple Morandé Edición brilliant terroir wine. and yeasty complexity and layered fruit and savoury a rich yet cleansing finish. Limitada Sauvignon Volcanes de Chile spice: stylish, very engaging. García y Schwaderer Profoundly mineral. Blanc 2011 Casablanca, Parinacota 2010 Maule, Undurraga T.H. Pinot Vigno 2010 Maule, 13.8% - 13% - eerily reminiscent of 14% - this Syrah/Carignan Cono Sur probably my favourite Vigno to Noir 2011 Leyda, 13.8% SoldeSol Chardonnay Semillon with its waxy, limey, blend is juicy and invigorating. Reserva Especial date. Too many south-country - an intriguing wine. After honeycomb complexity. Hugely Notes of warm earth and dark Carignans fall into excess, with 2009 Malleco, 13% I love 10 years of making ‘nice, Gewürztraminer 2012 layered and impressive: it’s fruits. Rounded, mineral, scarifying tannin, scorching the understatement, subtle balanced, fruit-driven’ Leyda Casablanca, 13% - not your fermented in large oak vats so sassy. alcohol and searing acidity. tenacity and minerality here. Pinot, Rafael Urrejola threw typical lush, low-acid Gewürz has a creamy, nutty character But this one is tamed without Proper Chardonnay but not caution to the wind in 2011 but still wonderfully perfumed overlaying the citric freshness. Apaltagua Signature being neutered. It’s floral and shouty. This wine is already and used 40% whole cluster (rose, lychee) and succulent, earthy as well as dense and a Chilean classic and is Cabernet Sauvignon fermentations. This is a risky with a gently spicy, crunchy Casa Marín Cipreses ripe-fruited. Fine, firm tannic increasingly assured. Pirque, 14% - figgy strategy and can make for edgy finish. Elegant texture and 2010 architecture. Very good. Sauvignon Blanc 2010 and herbal nose, complex wine: this one has apparently breadth, great value. Ventisquero Grey Pinot San Antonio, 13.5% - both and inviting. Firm, dense, taken a few years to settle the Laurel and Cipreses Lapostolle Collection Noir 2011 Casablanca, 13% gastronomic. Very impressive. down. When I tried it, it still Volcanes de Chile are impressive Sauvignons: - strikes a different register had rough edges but was Tectonia Pinot Noir Syrah El Rosario 2011 intense, structured and from most Chilean Pinot. Undurraga T.H. Riesling also cogent, grippy, sturdy, San Antonio, 14.1% - succulent invigorating. But this one 2010 Bío Bío, 12.9% vigorous, Real accent on freshness and sappy and structured. Its but grippy, with malty, floral just has the edge, with its 2011 San Antonio, 12.3% - smoky, sappy and cogent. Chile linearity, with a zippy, crunchy imperfections made it all the hints and plenty of dark fruit. honeyed, glazed grapefruit beautiful lime and apple scent, needs its Pinots to speak to red fruit flavour profile and more compelling. Lots going on here, excellent character with notes of fennel with a hint of cream and toast. you in a multitude of dialects smoky, leafy complexity. tannic finesse. Masculine – but and clotted cream. Beautiful Pure, zingy and rounded – and this is one of them: gentle Dynamic, foodie and delicious. Casa Marín Miramar suave. Sauvignon. hard to fault. Lovely texture, but insistent. A cloudy coastal grip and drinkability. Syrah 2009 San Antonio, site over black soils in Patahual together with some Erasmo Late Harvest Morandé Reserva Pinot De Martino Limávida 12% - lean, pure, driven. Noir 2011 Casablanca, Calyptra Zahir Cabernet Very refreshing and focused, clever winemaking by Pilar Torontel 2008 Maule, 2011 Maule, 13.8% - I tasted 14.5% - proper Pinot, with with compact tannin and a Díaz has made a very smart, 12.5% - nectar, Chilean style. a pre-bottling vat sample of Sauvignon Limited real energy, focus and poise. cleansing finish. individual Pinot: light, pure, Made from a parcel of 60-year- this but had to include it here. Edition 2008 Cachapoal, elegant. old vines by Italian count 38 39 WINES ***** WINES *****

Francesco Marone Cinzano, De Martino Single bit hot on the finish but it’s Neyen 2004 Apalta, 14% complex notes of honey, pear creamy, glossy and instantly he of the dynasty Vineyard Parcela 5 delightful, heart-warming - a wine that stood out from and grapefruit come together appealing. To be critical, it is and highly regarded Brunello stuff. in this classic Leyda Sauvignon quite international in style Sauvignon Blanc 2011 a recent vertical. A blend of estate Col d’Orcia. The grapes 70% Carmenere with 30% made with an accent on and hot on the finish. But it Casablanca, 13% - pure, were dried on rafters for three Cabernet, this is savoury, freshness and elegant texture. also has lovely gravelly layers vibrant and citric. Tense and Concha y Toro Marqués months before being aged in dense and still youthful. It’s with serious tannin and well direct, the Tilda Swinton of de Casa Concha barrels. The result is unctuous perhaps not the cleanest – Viña Leyda Reserva integrated acidity. but beautifully harmonious, Sauvignon Blancs. Cogent and Sauvignon Blanc 2012 there’s a hint of animalistic Pinot Noir 2011 Leyda, with viscous layers of grape pithy. San Antonio, 13% - vibrant, rusticity in there – but it’s 14.5% - invigorating and Casas del Bosque Gran marmalade, dried mint and dynamic style, very pure and not at all dried out and has foodie. Tiny bit hot on the Reserva Syrah 2011 ginger biscuit flavours. A complex. Invigorating wine in delightful roasted pepper finish but there are some Casablanca, 13.5% - dark, proper vino da meditazione this rejuvenated line. complexity. lovely red fruit, gently resinous inky style with a fine peppery – to be drunk by itself in a ***** flavours that are very Chilean, streak at its heart. It could still serene armchair. 4 STAR Falernia Donna Maria Concha y Toro Terrunyo plus some leafy freshness that be toned down even further Highly recommended Syrah 2010 Limarí, 14.5% Sauvignon Blanc Los isn’t always the case. Good but its svelte, glossy character Aristos Duque d’A - a venture south for the Elqui wines (7-7.7/10) Boldos Vineyard Block 5 value. works well. The Pequeñas Grand Cabernet du Chili specialist and a worthwhile Producciones Syrah is also one too. Engaging, dense and 2011 Casablanca, 13% - steely, 2008 Cachapoal, 14% - the Montes Outer Limits worth a try. super fine textured red with concentrated and ageworthy. super fine yet firm tannins García & Schwaderer notes of roasted peppers, black Verges on austerity but this Sauvignon Blanc are what mark out the Aristos Top Winemakers Chile Marina Sauvignon olive and fresh meat. Bold will mature well, with notes of 2011 Zapallar, 13% - spicy, Cabs. They also tend to be a but also savoury and scented. fresh herbs and ripe lemon. broad, intense and thrilling. 100 Barricas de Chile bit too minty and rich, to my Blanc 2012 Casablanca, Great value. Reminiscent of a light-bodied 2011 14.5% - this intriguing mind, but there’s also a lovely 13.5% - elegant, complex and Leyda in its nettle, wood- project has been running leafy, herbal tone to them, taut, a real triumph in this Mayu Sauvignon Blanc smoke and mineral style. Nice for a few years now. Co- and this one is developing a warm vintage. It’s serious but Cono Sur Reserva 2012 Elqui, 13.5% - bursting texture and persistence. ordinator Rafael Prieto invites comely tobacco scent as well. inviting, with hints of white Especial Riesling 2012 with nettley, citrusy, tomato winemakers to collaborate by Avuncular. flowers, anis and gooseberry. Bío Bío, 13.5% - perhaps not leaf freshness, this is pure, donating wines and helping The 2013 is shaping up well quite so focused and taut mid-weight and invigorating Morrison’s The Best make blends. It has a value in too. as in other vintages, this is Sauvignon. Pinot Noir 2012 Concha y Toro Don its emphasis on co-operation nonetheless wonderfully Casablanca, 13.5% - great Melchor 2007 Puente Alto, – often sorely lacking in Chile Valdivieso Blanc de apple-scented, creamy value Chilean Pinot sourced 14.5% - classic wine from an Montsecano Pinot Noir – but the wine isn’t gimmicky. textured Riesling from from William Cole by a excellent vintage. Suffused Blancs Brut NV 12% - the 2012 Casablanca, 13.5% - This elegant, cogent, heart- southern Chile. UK supermarket whose with aromas of candle wax, base wine here is 2009, so this much like the Refugio, this has warming red follows on from wine range has improved warm earth and bloody red fizz spent extensive time on delightful aromatics with notes some serious efforts from the immeasurably of late. Earthy, fruit. Fine firm tannin, good the lees (three years, in fact). San Pedro 1865 Limited of earthy, herbal dark fruit and 2007 and 2010 vintages. savoury and with a touch of grip and terroir feel, layers It shows. There is a lovely Edition Syrah 2010 wild flowers. It’s juicy, grippy autolytic (bready, yeasty, warming spice on the finish. of spicy fruit. Gravelly, long, Elqui, 14.5% - creamy, spicy, and energetic but a touch Concha y Toro Marqués biscuity) character here, overdone on the finish. Not the classy. Has a glossiness and beguiling Syrah with notes de Casa Concha swagger that’s seductive, even underpinned by a pure, brisk of baked herbs, grilled meat perfect wine but honest and Pérez Cruz Reserva if a bit more reticence and Chardonnay acidity and focus. and dark fruit. Bold and vivid, engaging. Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay 2011 Limarí, Classy stuff. 14% - this range has improved elegance would serve it well. perhaps a touch overdone on 2011 Maipo, 13.5% - fine, lately, with more accent on the finish. Apaltagua Reserva refreshing and engaging. Has terroir and less on crowd- Cono Sur Ocio Pinot Montsecano Il Refugio the hallmarks of Alto Maipo Sauvignon Blanc 2012 pleasing. This is not to say Pinot Noir 2012 Cono Sur Single – figgy minty dark fruit, along Noir 2011 Casablanca, 14% San Antonio, 13.5% - brisk, these aren’t appealing wines Casablanca, 14% - OK, it’s with a touch of black pepper – - it’s big and kind of bowls you Vineyard Block 21 tangy style with nice roasted – this is grown-up Limarí with not for everyone. But I can’t but in a fresh and lifted format. over. Definitely a rich style of Viento Mar Pinot Noir herbs and lemony freshness. elegantly layered, savoury Pinot, so not for everyone. But help but be won over by its Great value. 2011 San Antonio, 14% - flavours of baked apples, fresh it’s layered and complex and immediacy and distinctive Concha y Toro Marqués elegant earthy summer berry nuts and warm stones. Broad pretty compelling, if not the nature, with leaping scents of aromas with smoky hints. Volcanes de Chile de Casa Concha but moreish, and with lovely most graceful. fresh blackberry and violets and elegantly earthy, fine- Good acidity, layered, gently Tectonia Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon juicy acidity to sustain it. grained palate profile. It’s a bittersweet. Very nice. Blanc 2011 Leyda, 13.5% - 2010 Puente Alto, 14.5% - 40 41 WINES ***** WINES ***** Undurraga T.H. too early and the wine was Concha y Toro Casillero complexity. Should develop in 14% - pretty old school stuff, honeyed lemon and apple Sauvignon Blanc 2012 going to be hard and green. del Diablo Malbec 2012 the bottle well too. but with great energy and fruit, with a crisp acidity Lo Abarca, 13.5% -winemaker Not a bit of it. Brave new Rapel, 13.5% - juicy, soft- terroir conviction. Dried and elegantly creamy finish. Rafael Urrejola has worked Carmenere. textured, lots of wine here Tara 1 2011 fruit and herbs, tobacco and Classic savoury/saline Limarí his magic on this despite the for the price. Toasty smoky Atacama, 13% - fascinating gravel scents, and with a lithe, character on the finish. Very hot vintage, imbuing it with Tabalí Reserva Especial damson and cassis richness. ‘natural’ style wine made in fulsome flavour profile. moreish, well made. freshness and focus. Mineral, Pinot Noir 2012 Limarí, tiny quantities (409 bottles, layered and punchy, a lovely 13.5% - perfumed, juicy, Errázuriz The Blend to be precise) in Huasco, an Nativa Terra Reserva Tirazis Syrah 2011 experimental new northern Casablanca, 14.5% - leaping terroir wine. serious stuff. Summer fruits Collection White 2012 Carmenere 2009 Valle flavours with floral notes make vineyard run by Ventisquero. Central, 13.5% - really vivid, aromas of tapenade, bacon 13% - a rare Chilean wine Mainly Chardonnay, with fat and inky dark fruit. I’d Pérez Cruz Cot 2011 for an engaging, savoury, fine- that majors on subtlety and joyous stuff. What Carmenere Maipo, 14% - a floral perfume grained red with a touch of a touch of Viognier, made can and should be – refreshing, prefer it to have slightly less cries out for food. The blend with the aid of foot-treading alcohol and ripe fruit, but it’s pervades the wine, with spice. Pretty persistent. Could of Marsanne, and peppery, savoury and delicate herbal, earthy hints have a touch less alcohol and and stainless steel barrels, crunchy. The firm tannin and impressive. Viognier is reminiscent of the its yeasty, crème-caramel too. ‘Malbec is like a sponge for more focus. southern Rhône or central bittersweet twang on the finish terroir,’ comments winemaker and apricot aromas are means it definitely benefits Cono Sur 20 Barrels Italy in style, quite reticent in underscored by a brisk green Germán Lyon. Lots of black Seña 2010 Aconcagua, from food – it went down a Sauvignon Blanc 2012 its dried herb character and apple acidity. Different, edgy, fruit succulence, fine gravelly 14% - I’ve tasted this a few treat with chorizo burgers and Casablanca, 12.5% - it wasn’t gently mouth-coating texture. rustic and fun. Worth a try. tannin, hard not to love. times recently, perhaps most lamb kofta kebabs. easy to make good Sauvignon memorably in mid-2012 Miguel Torres Reserva in 2012, but here’s one. Cono Sur Single when it was pitted blind Concha y Toro Terrunyo Cono Sur Block No Inviting notes of pressed against the likes of Châteaux de Pueblo País 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon herbs, fennel, chalk and citrus Vineyard Block 25 Secano Interior, 12% - wow! 18 Single Vineyard Lafite, Margaux, Tignanello Pirque, 14.5% - a rind on the nose. Elegant Syrah La Palma 2011 San This is more than a wine; it 2009, El Recurso Cabernet and Sassicaia. It’s a rich yet smart, well judged Cab with texture, good citric depth. Not Antonio, 14% - leafy dark fruit is a statement. País has for Sauvignon 2011 Maipo, self-assured style, classically earthy, roasted herb and plum a blockbuster but vivacious with toasty hints and chocolate centuries been derided as a 13.6% - expressive, firm, Chilean in its earthy, bay, flavours. Juicy, fresh and hints and nicely textured. notes. Smooth, dense and sub-standard wine grape but gastronomic. Should develop minty cassis flavours, but of warm gravel. Nicely done. artfully done. this joyful, vivid, revitalising well in bottle. also very elegant texturally. I However, on the evidence of wine changes everything. Villard Expresión continue to find it a bit too hot this and the 2010, I’d like to Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 SoldeSol Pinot Noir 2011 and rich and I’d love a little Waves of sweet cherry fruit William Fèvre Little see more freshness and less Casablanca, 13.5% - velveteen Traiguén, Malleco, 12.5% - more nuance in the aromatics. wash over and invigorate heft in the wine. Less is more. Quino Pinot Noir 2012 and stylish. Restrained aromas gently earthy and herbal, it Something along the lines of the palate; it’s like Beaujolais Malleco, 12.5% -very pale, (earthy, floral dark fruit) lead teases and tantalises rather the brilliant 1995 and 1997 beefed up with a dollop of Chocalán Reserva with cherry jam aromas and a into a succulent, plush flavour than overwhelms. Refreshing Señas. spicy Syrah. Cabernet Franc 2011 lively, sappy and fairly forceful profile with fine-grained and elegantly gastronomic, flavour profile. Quite edgy and Maipo, 14% - a creamy, plush, tannins. There’s a graceful with notes of redcurrant jelly. Laberinto Cenizas de Loma Larga Cabernet rustic, a lean, fine grained style glossy nose is elegantly harmony to it all. Hangs Could do with a touch more Franc 2010 Casablanca, that is not the usual Chilean Barlovento Sauvignon contradicted by a grippy, together well, albeit a touch scent and tangy grip, though, 14.5% - punchy, vivid stuff. Pinot fare, and all the better Blanc 2011 Maule, 12.5% I serious palate profile with spicy on the finish. Classy as per the 2010. Promising Lovely leafy, graphite aromas for it. Good potential. tried the 2007 recently and stuff. nonetheless. together with red pepper and graphite hints and a persistent it had aged beautifully. This dark fruit. Firm tannins and finish. was gratifying because, tasting Morandé Reserva Miguel Torres Days of Lapostolle Collection spicy finish. A bit awkward this wine, you have to keep but good vibrancy. Saumur- Quintay Clava Pinot Gewürztraminer 2011 Summer Muscat 2012 Carmenère Portezuelo the faith that it will evolve Casablanca, 13% - understated, born winemaker Cédric Nicolle Noir 2011 Casablanca, Itata, 11.5% - it’s not easy 2010 Colchagua, 13.8% - and flesh out. At the moment herbal style with lovely texture bringing Loire expertise to 14% - good fluid, spiced berry to make fresh Muscat this lovely earthy, peppery perfume it’s tense, flinty and super and balance. Succulent and Chile. character with earthy, malty good. Light in alcohol, with with red fruit freshness. direct. Verges on sourness smooth. hints. Very smart. The posher crisp acidity offset by a small Pure, lifted and delicious, but actually it’s well balanced ‘Q’ is good too but this just nips amount (14 g/l) of sugar, the wonderful medium-bodied and rounded. A lean, sinewy Quintay Q Syrah 2011 it for me in value terms. Miguel Torres Cordillera overall impression is an exotic style. Apparently winemaker marathon runner rather than a Casablanca, 14.5% - elegant, perfume suffused with ginger Chardonnay 2011 Limarí, Andrea León ‘freaked out a bit’ bloated sprinter. expressive coastal Syrah biscuit and grape notes that 13.5% -like a rich Macon or during fermentation when she with a smooth, grippy palate Clos des Fous Cabernet leads into a crunchy, succulent, Pouilly-Fuissé, this is full of was worried she’d harvested profile and black olive/peppery Sauvignon 2011 Requinoa, pretty dry flavour profile. 42 43 WINES ***** WINES ***** Viña Leyda Single Aquitania Lazuli Santa Alicia Reserva Lagar de Bezana Syrah Miguel Torres Nectaria Concha y Toro Terrunyo Vineyard Las Brisas Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir 2012 Bío Bío, 2010 Alto Cachapoal, 14.5% - Botrytis Riesling 2009 Riesling 2011 Casablanca, Pinot Noir 2011 Leyda, 2005 Maipo, 13.5% - classic 13.5% - doesn’t try too hard grown-up Syrah, with elegant Curicó, 14.5% - dense, brisk 11.5% - lovely limey purity 14% - cogent and rewarding. Maipo Cab, well made and and is all the better for it. floral, peppery, dark fruit and with a twangy bittersweet here, although it tapers off Quite rich in structure but the not overdone. Aromas of fig, Creamy red fruit flavours aromas. It’s a bit hot on the orange peel finish. It verges on on the finish. You sense some elegant red fruit and sous- eucalypt and warm earth with a fresh yet rounded finish but has decent savoury austerity – give it a few years really good raw material and bois character, with notes of lead into an elegantly mature palate profile. Not the finished appeal. more in bottle – but this is now potential here but it could roasted beans, make it savoury flavour profile that still has the article but self-contained and a regularly impressive wine. use a bit more oomph and and attractive. concentration and balance to elegantly made. Santa Rita Medalla concentration. If you have the age further. Fine and soft- Real Gran Reserva patience, wait for the stunning 2013. RE Pinotel 2011 textured tannin, well balanced Villalobos Carignan Carmenere 2009 alcohol, fresh acidity: classic Casablanca, 14% - this blend Reserva 2012 Colchagua, Colchagua, 14% - high-toned, ***** in its style. Follows on from a Tamaya T Malbec 2011 of Pinot Noir from Casablanca 12% - the fourth version of this with notes of bergamot, tar very good 2004. 3 STAR Limarí Costa, 14.5% - Replete. and Moscatel from Loncomilla utterly refreshing, wonderfully and wild flowers. Dense, Recommended (6-6.9/10) Verges on being OTT, with is actually a pretty serious wild wine. Un-trained vines high-octane stuff but with tons of floral, ripe damson and : structured, juicy and De Martino Viejas grow up trees and bushes decent balance. Rich, smooth, huge concentration. But it’s with a slightly rustic, oxidative Tinajas Cinsault 2012 and are pruned by horses in satisfying. not sweet or too burly, instead character and hint of tannin. Coelumu, 13% - although it’s this 60-year-old vineyard Cono Sur Cosecha Noble flecked with graphite, floral not quite as fresh and arresting in Lolol, coastal Colchagua. Viu Manent Vibo tones. A work in progress but Valdivieso Single as the delightful debut 2011, Sculptor Enrique Villalobos’ Late Riesling 2011 Bío Viñedo Centenario 2011 some great raw material here. this is still a wonderful wine. sons Rolando and Martín are Bío, 12% - a counterpoint to Vineyard Pinot Noir Colchagua, 14.5% - a blend It’s packed full of spiced cherry the part-time winemakers and the excellent dry Riesling 2010 Leyda, 14% - big-boned of old-vine Cabernet, Malbec fruit, with a lovely gentle craft a pale purple wine with work by Adolfo Hurtado, this Luis Felipe Edwards and tons of fun. Purists will and Petit Verdot from Cunaco. earthy, grainy texture. Made in scents of warm earth and wild is a succulent, appley, gently Cien100 Carignan 2011 cite its excess; hedonists Very dense and complex, with tinaja earthenware pots with berries. Juicy, floral and lifted, bittersweet pudding wine that Maule, 14.5% - inky, dense and will relish its voluptuous notes of roasted pepper, malt minimal intervention. A joyful, with elegant medium body and works really rather well. Good bold. A bit overdone on the luxuriance. Tons of creamy and vodka. Brooding but not light-hearted country wine for a gently grainy, earthy texture. value, too. tannin and alcohol, but there’s dark fruit, juicy, rounded, brow-beating; it’s big, burly raising the spirits. Very appealing, and a notch up some nice insistent earthy dark succulent and winning. Heart- and boisterous. Could still do from the 2011. J Bouchon Las Mercedes fruit character here. warming. with toning down a bit but Clos des Fous Locura Ensamblaje Blanco De Martino Las Cruces impressive nonetheless. 1 Chardonnay 2011 2012 Maule, 13.5% - Mayu Malbec Reserva Los Boldos Sensaciones Single Vineyard Old Cabernet Sauvignon Cachapoal, 14% - a Chilean De Martino Reserva fragrant, succulent blend of 2012 Elqui, 14.5% - vivid take on Chablis, this is Bush Vines 2008 Legado Carmenere 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon aromas of violets, dark 2012 Cachapoal, 14.5% - this Cachapoal, 13.5% - Harks and Chardonnay. Honeyed and chocolate and black pepper mineral, tangy and fresh. It Maipo, 13.5% - it’s fresh! winery has (good) form with back to an earlier era of De generous but fresh. French are immediately engaging. speaks of icy night air in the Hallelujah! Bright dark cherry Cabernet but had fallen off Martino winemaking but winemaker Patrick Valette Bittersweet dark fruit on vineyard and an assured hand fruit with leafy hints. Smooth, lately, so it’s nice to see it back it has matured nicely, with advises; they also make a good the palate, a little lacking in in the winery. Appley, mineral with graphite inflections, juicy on the money. Creamy, fluid, toffee damson fruit and baked Sauvignon Blanc under the structure and core focus but aromas and good length. and succulent, not at all sweet spicy and layered. Doesn’t try flowers. Rustic, honest and same brand. hugely promising in its lift and Stylish. or over-bearing. Wonderfully too hard. rounded. Great with sausages. brio. judged. Casas del Bosque Late Errázuriz Don Canepa Magnificum Louis-Antoine Luyt Maximiano Founder’s Vistamar Sepia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Harvest Riesling 2011 Emiliana Signos de Casablanca, 11.5% - rich Trequilemu Carignan Origen Chardonnay/ Reserve 2010 Aconcagua, Merlot 2011 Romeral, 13.5% 2007 Puente Alto, 14.5% - - lovely juicy peppery style, and luscious but very well 2010 Empedrado, 12.9% Roussanne/Marsanne 14.5% - glossy, creamy, dense I’m not sure whether this is an balanced in this style. Oodles - wild and rustic, this has a stuff. Noticeably not as minty rounded and smooth but fresh inspired or terrible name for a of apricot, barley sugar feral, wild berry character 2012 Casablanca, 14.5% or exaggerated as previous and lifted too. wine – but it suits. The quality flavours with tangy acidity and a juicy, dense, earthy - apple and honeysuckle examples, with some engaging of the 2007 vintage shines underneath. flavour profile. Resonant perfume. Rich, broad textured fresh peppery notes too. Fine, La Roncière Mousai through, with lovely layers and but nicely grounded. It’s a and invigorating – if not for crunchy. Could benefit from Merlot 2009 Colchagua, texture with wood smoke and heady style but well balanced. everyone. more harmony and restraint, but 13.5% - fresh, balanced, roasted pepper complexity. it’s creditable – and improving. 44 45 WINES WINE SUMMARY Apaltagua Reserva Sauvignon Casa Marín ***** Blanc 2012 Miramar Syrah 2009 ***** harmonious and savoury. Falernia Carmenère of the more successful wines, Doesn’t try too hard, which is Reserva 2011 Elqui, a sappy, nettley Pinot with a An A-Z of wines rated Apaltagua Signature Casas del Bosque Gran its great beauty. Earthy dark 15% - a delightful oddity vigorous palate profile, plenty Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Reserva Syrah 2011 fruit, some dusty floral hints of layers, and a spicy warming and reviewed in this from northern Chile, this brief. Wineries in bold ***** too. dense, inky Carmenère finish. was made using the Italian are profiled in the Aquitania Lazuli Cabernet Casas del Bosque Late De Martino Viejas ‘appassimento’ technique of Tamaya T Syrah producer section. Sauvignon 2005 Harvest Riesling 2011 Tinajas Muscat 2012 drying the grapes on the vine. 2011 Limarí Costa, 14% ***** ***** Itata, 13% - a mixture of grape The result is treacly with notes -tremendous aromatic jam and ginger biscuits, with a of roasted pepper and soy; complexity – with notes of tar, Aristos Duque d’A Grand Chocalán Reserva Cabernet lovely succulent yet dry palate the gently bittersweet, spicy, syrupy cassis chocolate, olives, Cabernet du Chili 2008 Franc 2011 profile, and a lingering finish. hedonistic finish is full-on but meat – translates into a slightly ***** This is Chile’s first ‘orange’ balanced. Original. stodgy, top-heavy flavour wine, made by leaving the juice profile. Very impressive but Aristos Duquesa d’A Clos des Fous Cabernet on the skins in tinaja clay jars Viña Casablanca Cefiro not hugely refreshing or Chardonnay 2008 Sauvignon 2011 for six months. Reserva Cabernet drinkable. ***** ***** Sauvignon 2011 Maipo, Armidita Pajarete Moscatel Clos des Fous Latuffa Pinot Botalcura Nebbiolo 13.5% - brooding tobacco Cono Sur Bicicleta 2011 Noir 2010 2009 Maule, 14% - bright and juicy palate. Accent on Malbec 2011 Colchagua, ***** ***** floral, black cherry aromas. freshness, cleverly made. 13% - silky and juicy, a lovely Juicy, creamy flavour profile easy-going red shot through Artifice Argentum Pinot Noir Clos des Fous Locura 1 with fine firm tannins and a Vistamar Late Harvest with floral and peppery 2012 Chardonnay 2011 soft finish. A happy memory freshness. from the year before the Moscatel 2012 Limarí, ***** ***** 12% - rich apricot and honey winery was destroyed in the Matetic Coralillo Pinot Botalcura Nebbiolo 2009 Concha y Toro Casillero del 2010 earthquake (though the flavours. Nicely balanced, good Noir 2011 San Antonio, 14% Diablo Malbec 2012 brand lives on). value. ***** - juicy, succulent and with a ***** Calyptra Artifice Argentum Pinot touch of spice. Engaging and Viña Leyda Lot 21 Pinot deftly made, with flavours of Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Concha y Toro Don Melchor Noir 2011 Leyda, 14% - spicy Noir 2012 Casablanca, 13.5% creamy red fruit. Sauvignon Blanc 2010 2007 vigorous style with an elegant - smoky and meaty, with some ***** good tension on the palate. texture and certain minerality Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot to it. It’s a muscular but well made Calyptra Concha y Toro style. Noir rosé 2012 Bío Bío, Zahir Cabernet Sauvignon Marqués de Casa Concha 13% - Good to see a lovely Limited Edition 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Clos des Fous Latuffa Tamaya T Blanc de commercial Pinot rosé – ***** Pinot Noir 2010 Traiguén, expressive and juicy yet crisp. 14% - ginger and summer fruit Blancs Brut Nature 2010 Great value. Canepa Magnificum Concha y Toro Limarí, 12% - a definite step flavours, with a friendly nip Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Marqués de Casa Concha up from the 2009 vintage, of tannin. Nice harmony but Armidita Pajarete Chardonnay 2011 could use a bit more length this fizz is zingy, layered ***** and persistent. It’s not the Moscatel Vin del ***** and core. Casa Marín Cipreses finished article but shows good Desierto 2011, Atacama, Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Concha y Toro potential in its freshness and Luis Felipe Edwards 14% - easy-going honeyed Marqués de Casa Concha biscuit complexity. Muscat, with flavours of Marea Pinot Noir 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2012 grape marmalade and glazed Casa Marín Estero Vineyard Leyda, 14% - lovely floral Kingston Tobiano Pinot cream. Could do with a bit ***** earthy dark fruit perfume but Sauvignon Gris 2011 more freshness and zip but Concha y Toro Terrunyo it’s a bit too contrived and hot Noir 2011 Casablanca, creditable. Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 on the finish. Shame – with 14% - I’ve long been a fan of a bit less intervention and Kingston’s spicy Syrahs but I Casa Marín ***** slightly earlier harvest, this feel that lately the wines have Miramar Riesling 2010 could have been fabulous. fallen into excess. This is one ***** 46 47 WINE SUMMARY CHILE WINE SUMMARY Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Carignan 2011 WINE ***** ***** Concha y Toro Terrunyo De Martino Las Cruces Single García & Schwaderer Sofia Luis Felipe Edwards Marea Riesling 2011 Vineyard Old Bush Vines 2008 BRIEF Pinot Noir 2011 Pinot Noir 2011 ***** ***** ***** Concha y Toro Terrunyo De Martino Limávida 2011 García y Schwaderer Marks & Spencer Secano Sauvignon Blanc Los Boldos Vigno 2010 Estate Sauvignon Gris 2011 Vineyard Block 5 2011 ***** De Martino Reserva Legado Carmenere 2011 J Bouchon Las Mercedes Matetic Coralillo Pinot Noir 2011 Cono Sur 20 Barrels ***** Ensamblaje Blanco 2012 ***** Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ***** ***** De Martino Single Vineyard Matetic EQ Syrah 2007 Parcela 5 Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Kingston Tobiano Pinot Noir ***** Cono Sur Bicicleta Malbec 2011 2011 ***** ***** Mayu Malbec Reserva 2012 De Martino Viejas Tinajas ***** Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir Cinsault 2012 La Roncière Mousai Merlot rosé 2012 ***** 2009 Mayu Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ***** ***** ***** De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cono Sur Cosecha Noble Late Muscat 2012 Laberinto Cenizas de Mayu Syrah Reserva 2010 Riesling 2011 ***** Barlovento Sauvignon Blanc ***** 2011 Emiliana Signos de Origen ***** Miguel Torres Cordillera Cono Sur Ocio Pinot Noir 2011 Chardonnay/Roussanne/ Chardonnay 2011 Marsanne 2012 Lagar de Bezana Syrah 2010 ***** ***** ***** Cono Sur Reserva Especial Miguel Torres Days of Gewürztraminer 2012 Erasmo Late Harvest Torontel Lapostolle Collection Summer Muscat 2012 2008 Carmenère Portezuelo 2010 ***** ***** Cono Sur Reserva Especial Miguel Torres Nectaria Riesling 2012 Errázuriz Don Maximiano Lapostolle Collection Syrah El Botrytis Riesling 2009 ***** Founder’s Reserve 2010 Rosario 2011 ***** ***** Cono Sur Single Vineyard Miguel Torres Reserva de Block 18 El Recurso Cabernet Errázuriz The Blend Lapostolle Collection Syrah El Pueblo País 2012 Sauvignon 2011 Collection White 2012 Silo 2011 ***** ***** ***** Montes Outer Limits Cono Sur Single Vineyard Errázuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Loma Larga Cabernet Franc Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Block 21 Viento Mar Pinot Noir Noir 2012 2010 ***** 2011 ***** ***** ***** Montsecano Il Refugio Pinot Falernia Carmenère Reserva Los Boldos Sensaciones Noir 2012 Cono Sur Single Vineyard 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ***** Block 25 Syrah La Palma 2011 ***** ***** ***** Montsecano Pinot Noir 2012 Falernia Donna Maria Syrah Louis-Antoine Luyt ***** Cousiño Macul Antiguas 2010 Trequilemu Carignan 2010 Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon ***** Morandé Edición Limitada 1998 ***** Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ***** García & Schwaderer Marina Luis Felipe Edwards Cien100 48 49 WINE SUMMARY CHILE WINE SUMMARY Valdivieso Blanc de Blancs Volcanes de Chile Parinacota WINE Brut NV 2010 Morandé Reserva Sauvignon 1967 ***** Gewürztraminer 2011 ***** BRIEF ***** Valdivieso Single Vineyard Volcanes de Chile Tectonia Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Pinot Noir 2010, Leyda Pinot Noir 2010 Morandé Reserva Pinot Noir Reserva Carmenere 2009 ***** 2011 ***** Ventisquero Grey Pinot Noir Volcanes de Chile Tectonia Seña 2010 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Morrison’s The Best Pinot Noir ***** ***** 2012 ***** SoldeSol Chardonnay 2009 Villalobos Carignan Reserva William Fèvre Little Quino 2012 Pinot Noir 2012 Nativa Terra Reserva ***** ***** Carmenere 2009 SoldeSol Pinot Noir 2011 ***** ***** Villard Expresión Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 Neyen 2004 Tabalí Reserva Especial Pinot ***** ***** Noir 2012 ***** Viña Casablanca Cefiro Pinot Pérez Cruz Reserva Cabernet Noir 2012 Sauvignon 2011 Tamaya T Blanc de Blancs ***** Brut Nature 2010 ***** Viña Casablanca Cefiro Pérez Cruz Cot 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ***** Tamaya T Malbec 2011 2011 ***** ***** Quintay Clava Pinot Noir 2011 ***** Tamaya T Syrah 2011 Viña Leyda Lot 21 Pinot Noir ***** 2011 Quintay Q Syrah 2011 ***** ***** Tara white wine 1 2011 ***** Viña Leyda Reserva Pinot RE Cabergnan 2009 Noir 2011 Tirazis Syrah 2011 ***** ***** RE Chardonnoir 2011 Viña Leyda Reserva Syrah Top Winemakers Chile 100 2011 Barricas de Chile 2011 ***** RE Pinotel 2011 ***** ***** Viña Leyda Single Vineyard Undurraga T.H. Cabernet Las Brisas Pinot Noir 2011 RE Velado 2009 Sauvignon 2011 ***** ***** ***** Vistamar Late Harvest San Pedro 1865 Limited Edition Undurraga T.H. Pinot Noir Moscatel 2012 Syrah 2010 2011 ***** ***** Vistamar Sepia Reserva Merlot Santa Alicia Reserva Pinot Undurraga T.H. Riesling 2011 2011 Noir 2012 ***** ***** Undurraga T.H. Sauvignon Viu Manent Vibo Viñedo Santa Carolina Estrella Blanc 2012 Centenario 2011 de Oro Reserva Cabernet ***** ***** 50 51 CREDITS

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Illustrations by Helen Richards. Photos © Peter Richards and Alvaro Arriagada ILLUSTRATION by HELEN RICHARDS With thanks to Dad for sub-editing, Susie and Wines of Chile. ISSUE 01 : 2013

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