Peter Richards MW on Chile for Imbibe
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a walk on the WILD SIDE With its oddball grape varieties, ancient dry-farmed vines and funky winemaking techniques, Chile’s south is making the kind of wines that restaurants are crying out for. Peter Richards MW abandons the comforts of Cabernet Sauvignon to investigate 64 imbibe.com Chile2.indd 64 4/23/2015 4:15:29 PM SOUTHERN CHILE MAIN & ABOVE: EXPLORING THE VINEYARDS OF ITATA. FAR RIGHT: HARVEST TIME AT GARCIA + SCHWADERER s Chile really worth the effort? It’s out via Carmenère, Pinot Noir and Syrah. host of other (often unidentifi ed) varieties a question – often expressed as a Yet still, the perception persists of a grew on granite soils amid rolling hills Iresigned reaction – that is fairly country that delivers solid, maybe ever- and a milder, more temperate climate widespread in the on-trade. Perhaps improving wines but which neither make than warmer areas to the north. it’s understandable, given how many the fi nest partners for food, nor have the The hills around the port city of brilliant wines from all over the globe capacity to get people excited – be they Concepción are considered Chile’s longest vie for attention in our bustling and sommeliers or diners. established vineyard, and it’s a sobering colourful marketplace, including tried This, of course, begs the question: thought that, given it was fi rst developed and tested favourites. what does get people excited when it in the mid- to late-16th century by Jesuit But it’s also based on a missionaries, this area has more conception of Chile as somewhat winemaking history than the predictable and limited in both great estates of the Médoc. its wines and what it can offer ‘CHILE NEEDS TO EVOLVE The problem was the wines – to on-trade venues. FROM BEING A COUNTRY OF high in acid and low in alcohol, It was a thought that crossed made in a decidedly homespun my mind as I stood in a deep pit WINEMAKERS TO ONE OF WINE fashion from unfashionable surrounded by 50-year-old dry- GROWERS’ ANDRÉS SÁNCHEZ grape varieties – were sow’s ears farmed País vines in southern made out of silk purses. The Chile. I was being fi lmed by regions festered; grape prices a drone and chatting with craggy, comes to wine? That’s complicated, but I’d fell and no one paid much attention. charismatic grower Eugenio Molla. suggest it comes down to factors such as The same notion returned later when novelty, intriguing back-stories, a sense of The new Chile savouring characterful, food-friendly local personal discovery and, most importantly, Now, however, several key things have wines at dinner in Itata while discussing delicious, gastronomic, characterful wine. changed. Firstly, Chilean winemakers a local producer who puts speakers And this is precisely where Chile’s have woken up to the tremendous (waterproofed with condoms) into his deep south enters the equation. For many potential of this vinous legacy and are barrels to play music directly to the wine. years, wine regions like Maule, Itata and falling over themselves to craft wines While mulling the various pros Bío Bío were sidelined as winemakers that are both representative and engaging and cons of this approach, the local championed international varieties from for the modern wine drinker. wines quietly slipped down a treat – the Central Valley. But the resulting Secondly, the market is increasingly unobtrusively characterful, refreshing, impression of Chile as a country with looking for refreshing, characterful wines gastronomic – alongside a decidedly limited winemaking experience, history from unusual grape varieties with a story modernist menu. and diversity was actually a signifi cant to tell – and Chile is rising to meet the The default historic setting for Chile in misrepresentation of what had for long challenge. In much the same way that, say, the UK on-trade is as a source of steady been happening in the south. Swartland has risen in profi le on the back but uninspiring house Sauvignon Blanc Here, small plots of dry-farmed, of an intriguing legacy, Chile’s cool south or Merlot. Recently, however, some more sometimes centenarian vineyards of País, is now also a hot spot in world wine – and PHOTOS: ÁLVARO ARRIAGADA ÁLVARO PHOTOS: forward-looking venues have branched Carignan, Cinsault, Muscat, Malbec and a one that offers intriguing options. >> imbibe.com 65 Chile2.indd 65 4/23/2015 4:15:36 PM ON-TRADE INSIGHTS ALISTAIR COOPER, 1855: ‘Swartland has played ‘I’ve just started with a Beaujolais-like an integral part in changing perceptions of South Cinsault, a Muscat from Itata, a Rhône Africa, and the southern regions could well prove white blend from Aconcagua and a to be as pivotal for Chile.’ Carignan from the south,’ says sommelier Yuri Gualeni from Coya in London. ‘Wines CHRISTOPHER DELALONDE MS, BOUNDARY: show more focus, nervier acidity, lighter ‘País should be treasured as the national outsider and fresher alcohol levels, less extraction for southern Chile – like Carignan is for Roussillon.’ of fruit to almost non-existent oak, with MARTIN LAM, FOOD & WINE CONSULTANT: ‘Chile cement, steel and some amphorae doing has expanded into a more con dent, world-class wine the funky bit. These wines sit best at mid- country, which no complete UK wine list should ignore.’ tier prices because they have the quality to be good but won’t be appreciated by HÉCTOR RIQUELME, CHILEAN SOMMELIER & those seeking “house wine” styles.’ WRITER: ‘Southern Chile is a completely di erent reality This viticultural renaissance is being from the Central Valley. These wines o er freshness and expressed in many different ways. a sense of place.’ One is Vigno, the collective brand that champions old-vine Carignan from Maule’s dry-farmed coastal zone (see box). ‘For me, it’s the most signifi cant and reds, often made from the likes of winemaker Marcelo Retamal. ‘We now innovation in recent Chilean wine Cinsault, Muscat and País. De Martino is need to create a category for Itata, to drive history,’ says Vigno co-founder Andrés a winery that has been doing pioneering momentum and fuel this movement of Sánchez. ‘Chile needs to evolve from work in this region, producing celebrated micro-producers that is starting to emerge.’ being a country of winemakers to one of low-sulphur wines made in traditional wine growers. We need to safeguard our large clay jars called tiñajas from both Local roots heritage and tell stories through our wines Cinsault and skin-contact Muscat under The País, or Mission grape variety, is – and this is a brilliant way to do it.’ the Viejas Tinajas brand. widespread in southern Chile, and in Itata Then there’s the emergence of Itata ‘These wines helped show people especially. Thin-skinned and productive, it as a source of intriguing, offbeat whites that there was another Chile,’ comments was largely shunned by quality producers VIGNO: ‘THIS IS THE WAY TO SELL CHILE TO THE WORLD…’ Vigno (short for Vignadores de Carignan) is a ‘It was a quantum leap for Chilean wine,’ says showed a move towards elegance and balance. voluntary appellation acting as a shared trademark. Sánchez. ‘We wanted to go beyond what existed There is talk of introducing a sub-category The idea began in 2009 when journalist Eduardo in Chile, a denomination system designed on for early-release carbonic styles. Establishment Brethauer and Gillmore winemaker Andrés Sánchez geographic lines. Our aim is to unify producers, support has been forthcoming: Lapostolle recently were mulling how best to revive and promote old- making wines that express a sense of place.’’ joined and Concha y Toro is also signing up. vine Carignan from the coastal areas of Maule. Although they di er in style between producers, A set of criteria was devised – minimum 65% Vigno wines tend to be rugged and intense, thrilling Carignan, from dry-farmed bush vines at least 30 expressions of Carignan’s vibrant acidity, rm tannin years old growing in the Maule secano, aged for at and wild blue fruit. Some wines have been overdone least 24 months. Twelve wineries initially signed up. (oak, extraction, ripeness) but a recent tasting 66 imbibe.com Chile2.indd 66 4/23/2015 4:15:53 PM SOUTHERN CHILE until Miguel Torres started using it to are being expanded by the likes of Casa ambassadors for our establishments and make fi rstly a delicate pink fi zz named Silva in Lago Ranco, Coteaux de Trumao these wineries,’ says Alistair Cooper of Estelado and then a juicy, joyous red under in Osorno, De Martino in Pucón and wine bar and restaurant 1855 in Oxford. the Reserva de Pueblo brand. The latter Undurraga in Chile Chico. ‘Price-wise, they sit perfectly not at was particularly signifi cant because it So is Chile really worth the effort? ‘Yes, house level but as a mid-price by-the-glass proved that País could make a credible red. perhaps the wines from the south need option. And they work well on their own ‘It’s been a brilliant and gratifying to be hand sold but they offer us a point or with lighter food. Things have moved experience,’ attests Torres winemaker of difference and that’s how we create on dramatically in Chile.’ Fernando Almeda. ‘It hasn’t been without its challenges – people seemed to have SIX TO TRY FROM CHILE’S NEW WAVE a chip on the shoulder or mental block when it came to País. But I’ve learnt a lot LABERINTO SAUVIGNON BLANC GARCIA + SCHWADERER and, in fact, working with País has now CENIZAS DE BARLOVENTO 2014, VIGNO 2011, MAULE changed the way we manage all our vines.’ MAULE This dense, vigorous red is Almeda also points to the socio- A new paradigm for Chilean thrilling.