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Home , Chilean wine

a walk on the WILD SIDE With its oddball grape varieties, ancient dry-farmed vines and funky techniques, ’s south is making the kind of that restaurants are crying out for. Peter Richards MW abandons the comforts of to investigate

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MAIN & ABOVE: EXPLORING THE OF ITATA. FAR RIGHT: HARVEST TIME AT GARCIA + SCHWADERER

s Chile really worth the effort? It’s out via Carmenère, and . host of other (often unidentifi ed) varieties a question – often expressed as a Yet still, the perception persists of a grew on granite soils amid rolling hills Iresigned reaction – that is fairly country that delivers solid, maybe ever- and a milder, more temperate climate widespread in the on-trade. Perhaps improving wines but which neither make than warmer areas to the north. it’s understandable, given how many the fi nest partners for food, nor have the The hills around the port city of brilliant wines from all over the globe capacity to get people excited – be they Concepción are considered Chile’s longest vie for attention in our bustling and or diners. established , and it’s a sobering colourful marketplace, including tried This, of course, begs the question: thought that, given it was fi rst developed and tested favourites. what does get people excited when it in the mid- to late-16th century by Jesuit But it’s also based on a missionaries, this area has more conception of Chile as somewhat winemaking history than the predictable and limited in both great estates of the Médoc. its wines and what it can offer ‘CHILE NEEDS TO EVOLVE The problem was the wines – to on-trade venues. FROM BEING A COUNTRY OF high in acid and low in alcohol, It was a thought that crossed made in a decidedly homespun my mind as I stood in a deep pit WINEMAKERS TO ONE OF fashion from unfashionable surrounded by 50-year-old dry- GROWERS’ ANDRÉS SÁNCHEZ grape varieties – were sow’s ears farmed País vines in southern made out of silk purses. The Chile. I was being fi lmed by regions festered; grape prices a drone and chatting with craggy, comes to wine? That’s complicated, but I’d fell and no one paid much attention. charismatic grower Eugenio Molla. suggest it comes down to factors such as The same notion returned later when novelty, intriguing back-stories, a sense of The new Chile savouring characterful, food-friendly local personal discovery and, most importantly, Now, however, several key things have wines at dinner in Itata while discussing delicious, gastronomic, characterful wine. changed. Firstly, Chilean winemakers a local producer who puts speakers And this is precisely where Chile’s have woken up to the tremendous (waterproofed with condoms) into his deep south enters the equation. For many potential of this vinous legacy and are to play music directly to the wine. years, wine regions like Maule, Itata and falling over themselves to craft wines While mulling the various pros Bío Bío were sidelined as winemakers that are both representative and engaging and cons of this approach, the local championed international varieties from for the modern wine drinker. wines quietly slipped down a treat – the Central Valley. But the resulting Secondly, the market is increasingly unobtrusively characterful, refreshing, impression of Chile as a country with looking for refreshing, characterful wines gastronomic – alongside a decidedly limited winemaking experience, history from unusual grape varieties with a story modernist menu. and diversity was actually a signifi cant to tell – and Chile is rising to meet the The default historic setting for Chile in misrepresentation of what had for long challenge. In much the same way that, say, the UK on-trade is as a source of steady been happening in the south. Swartland has risen in profi le on the back but uninspiring house Here, small plots of dry-farmed, of an intriguing legacy, Chile’s cool south or . Recently, however, some more sometimes centenarian vineyards of País, is now also a hot spot in world wine – and

PHOTOS: ÁLVARO ARRIAGADA ÁLVARO PHOTOS: forward-looking venues have branched , Cinsault, , and a one that offers intriguing options. >>

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ALISTAIR COOPER, 1855: ‘Swartland has played ‘I’ve just started with a -like an integral part in changing perceptions of South Cinsault, a Muscat from Itata, a Rhône Africa, and the southern regions could well prove white blend from and a to be as pivotal for Chile.’ Carignan from the south,’ says Yuri Gualeni from Coya in London. ‘Wines CHRISTOPHER DELALONDE MS, BOUNDARY: show more focus, nervier acidity, lighter ‘País should be treasured as the national outsider and fresher alcohol levels, less extraction for southern Chile – like Carignan is for Roussillon.’ of fruit to almost non-existent , with MARTIN LAM, FOOD & WINE CONSULTANT: ‘Chile cement, steel and some amphorae doing has expanded into a more con dent, world-class wine the funky bit. These wines sit best at mid- country, which no complete UK wine list should ignore.’ tier prices because they have the quality to be good but won’t be appreciated by HÉCTOR RIQUELME, CHILEAN SOMMELIER & those seeking “” styles.’ WRITER: ‘Southern Chile is a completely di erent reality This viticultural renaissance is being from the Central Valley. These wines o er freshness and expressed in many different ways. a sense of place.’ One is Vigno, the collective brand that champions old-vine Carignan from Maule’s dry-farmed coastal zone (see box). ‘For me, it’s the most signifi cant and reds, often made from the likes of winemaker Marcelo Retamal. ‘We now innovation in recent Chilean wine Cinsault, Muscat and País. De Martino is need to create a category for Itata, to drive history,’ says Vigno co-founder Andrés a winery that has been doing pioneering momentum and fuel this movement of Sánchez. ‘Chile needs to evolve from work in this region, producing celebrated micro-producers that is starting to emerge.’ being a country of winemakers to one of low-sulphur wines made in traditional wine growers. We need to safeguard our large clay jars called tiñajas from both Local roots heritage and tell stories through our wines Cinsault and skin-contact Muscat under The País, or Mission grape variety, is – and this is a brilliant way to do it.’ the Viejas Tinajas brand. widespread in southern Chile, and in Itata Then there’s the emergence of Itata ‘These wines helped show people especially. Thin-skinned and productive, it as a source of intriguing, offbeat whites that there was another Chile,’ comments was largely shunned by quality producers

VIGNO: ‘THIS IS THE WAY TO SELL CHILE TO THE WORLD…’ Vigno (short for Vignadores de Carignan) is a ‘It was a quantum leap for Chilean wine,’ says showed a move towards elegance and balance. voluntary acting as a shared trademark. Sánchez. ‘We wanted to go beyond what existed There is talk of introducing a sub-category The idea began in 2009 when journalist Eduardo in Chile, a denomination system designed on for early-release carbonic styles. Establishment Brethauer and Gillmore winemaker Andrés Sánchez geographic lines. Our aim is to unify producers, support has been forthcoming: Lapostolle recently were mulling how best to revive and promote old- making wines that express a sense of place.’’ joined and is also signing up. vine Carignan from the coastal areas of Maule. Although they di er in style between producers, A set of criteria was devised – minimum 65% Vigno wines tend to be rugged and intense, thrilling Carignan, from dry-farmed bush vines at least 30 expressions of Carignan’s vibrant acidity,  rm tannin years old growing in the Maule secano, aged for at and wild blue fruit. Some wines have been overdone least 24 months. Twelve wineries initially signed up. (oak, extraction, ripeness) but a recent tasting

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until Miguel Torres started using it to are being expanded by the likes of Casa ambassadors for our establishments and make fi rstly a delicate pink fi zz named Silva in Lago Ranco, Coteaux de Trumao these wineries,’ says Alistair Cooper of Estelado and then a juicy, joyous red under in Osorno, De Martino in Pucón and wine bar and restaurant 1855 in Oxford. the Reserva de Pueblo brand. The latter Undurraga in Chile Chico. ‘Price-wise, they sit perfectly not at was particularly signifi cant because it So is Chile really worth the effort? ‘Yes, house level but as a mid-price by-the-glass proved that País could make a credible red. perhaps the wines from the south need option. And they work well on their own ‘It’s been a brilliant and gratifying to be hand sold but they offer us a point or with lighter food. Things have moved experience,’ attests Torres winemaker of difference and that’s how we create on dramatically in Chile.’ Fernando Almeda. ‘It hasn’t been without its challenges – people seemed to have SIX TO TRY FROM CHILE’S NEW WAVE a chip on the shoulder or mental block when it came to País. But I’ve learnt a lot LABERINTO SAUVIGNON BLANC GARCIA + SCHWADERER and, in fact, working with País has now CENIZAS DE BARLOVENTO 2014, VIGNO 2011, MAULE changed the way we manage all our vines.’ MAULE This dense, vigorous red is Almeda also points to the socio- A new paradigm for Chilean thrilling. The best Vigno economic benefi t of reviving these old Sauvignon Blanc: invigorating, zingy so far for my money. vineyards, which are often tended by and laser-like in focus, it bene ts Looking for UK elderly farmers who have traditionally from ageing. Someone in the UK on-trade importer earned little for their grapes. Torres now market needs to snap it up. works with 80 smaller producers and Looking for UK on-trade importer MIGUEL TORRES has instituted three separate Fairtrade RESERVA DE groupings in the southern area, providing PANDOLFI PRICE LARKÜN PUEBLO 2013, training and other support. 2013, ITATA ITATA ‘This is an important part of our The unoaked rendition from this Beaujolais meets spicy country’s history but people were excellent Chardonnay producer is Chilean Syrah: juicy, grubbing up vines and losing a spicy, savoury, fresh and elegant. honest, joyful and winemaking tradition that goes back £9.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, heavenly with a generations because they didn’t have an 0800 280 2440 plate of charcuterie. alternative or exit strategy. Now they £6, Fells, are organised and can see a commercial ROGUE VINE GRAND ITATA 01442 870900 future in what they do,’ says Almeda. WHITE 2013 Smaller producers are now springing Centenarian Muscat from MONTES OUTER up in the south, adding a healthy dollop Guarilihue in Itata makes for LIMITS OLD ROOTS of diversity into the equation – Laberinto, a funky, earthy, juicy-fruited CINSAULT 2014, ITATA Rogue Vine, Pandolfi Price, Tinto de Rulo, white with a nice bit of Floral, crunchy red from Zaranda, Louis-Antoine Luyt, Clos Ouvert, density and purpose. a reinvigorated producer. Cacique Maravilla and Alto Las Gredas £11.50, Indigo Wine, £11, Liberty Wines, are cases in point. What’s more, the limits 020 7733 8391 020 7720 5350 of Chile’s southern winemaking regions

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