sign in sign up
<<
Home , Chilean wine, Roast goose, Vietnamese wine

Summer 2018

Barrels: What They Contribute to Beer, and - Part 1

Comprehensive Tasting of Wine

Double Gold Tasting Notes from the 2018 Tasters Guild International Wine Judging

The Mystery of Foam in the Kitchen

Retailer‛s Shelf

The Beauty of Carménère

Those Mystical Moments

Ask Tasters Guild : What They Contribute to The of Barrels for Wine Beer, Wine and Liquor- Part 1 Although the Bourbon whiskey business quickly made charred maturation its signature process, aging By A. Brian Cain wine in new and flavorful barrels really didn’t make much headway until the 1960’s and 1970’s. Certainly barrels Legend has it that Elijah Craig, a preacher and moon- have been used to store wine for many centuries, but, shiner, was bending barrel staves by the traditional winemakers used the same barrels every year and didn’t method of the day with fire. Right in the middle of retire them until they started to leak which may take as bending the staves and assembling a barrel he got called long as a hundred years. Once a barrel has been used for away in an emergency for a dying parishioner. When he maybe 4 or 5 years, it no longer imparts an flavor into returned to his barrel, it had become quite charred with the wine though it still retains some residual flavors from the interior looking like black alligator skin. Being a frugal previous batches and importantly is a breeding ground for man of limited means, instead of using the scorched bar- a menagerie of micro-organisms that can favorably affect rel for firewood, he filled it with white lightning. After a the flavor and structure of the wine. Wineries, of course, few years, the whiskey did add new barrels had turned brown and as old ones started to had the most magnifi- leak or as production cent aroma and flavor increased, but, they ever conceived in the were very careful to history of moonshine. very gradually add only Thus, was the birth of a few new ones per Bourbon whiskey. year so that the oak flavors of those new Whether there is any barrels wouldn’t be historical truth in this detected in the final tale or not, up until a overall blend of new little more than a few and mostly old neutral centuries ago, barrels barrels. were simply a conve- nient storage vessel In the 1960’s and while wine and whiskey 1970’s, the California makers had little ap- and preciation for the changes in flavor that or business exploded and grew exponentially. It was no underwent while in those barrels. To make a beverage longer possible to bury a few new barrels amongst a taste like wood was unheard of. vast stand of used ones. As wineries literally doubled or tripled their production annually, a large percentage if As recently as the early 1980’s a reporter was interview- not a majority of their barrels were new. To calm down ing the winemaker at a classified Bordeaux and remarked the overt woodiness, toasting the barrels just below that that he was surprised that the winery did not own a single of a bourbon barrel not only seemed to make the wood barrel and that all of the wine was stored and aged in taste more palatable to the winemakers, but, the con- enamel lined concrete tanks. The winemaker quickly sumers loved it! In those days, many wines from the assured the reporter that there was no need to put the US and Australia tasted more like Bourbon than they did wine in barrels because the same result could be achieved like traditional wines. After a few decades of enormous more precisely by simply pumping the wine through the growth, production came back to a level where winemak- air and allowing it to splash around. The winemaker was ers could add maybe 5-10% new barrels every year and referring to the process of micro-oxygenation that a barrel restore the taste of their wines to what they believed it provides over a significant length of time. It never even should be. Consumers, however, had become used to the occurred to him that anyone in his right mind would actu- overt sweet, sappy, caramel, chocolate and coffee-like oak ally want their wine to taste like an oak barrel. flavors and complained that winemakers had wimped out.

2 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL easy to over oak even in a few months, and it Barrel Wood Treatment seemed almost impossible to over oak big reds even after a year in barrel, I still had the mistaken opinion that toasted barrels had All barrels used to be air dried. About 50 years ago, it was dis- more flavor than medium toast barrels. In fact, the reality is covered that kiln dried barrels intended for Bourbon aging were just the opposite. Even after several visits to the cooperage and just as good and much cheaper. It takes years and acres of land dozens of barrel replacements over decades at our own winery, to air dry barrel staves. Imagine what a million barrels looks like I still believed that heavy toast had more oak taste than medium and imagine three times that much wood staves stacked outside. or light toast. It is literally a forest of wood stacks stretching out for maybe a half mile square. Because Bourbon makers want the flavor of Fortunately, a blind pig does occasionally find an acorn. Be- the toast and do not necessarily want the flavor of the wood it- cause I switched to making exclusively, my misinforma- self they found that barrels made with kiln dried lumber worked tion about barrel toast served me well and my wines continued just fine and cost about 30% less. to improve as I increased the amount of toast and even started immersing heavily toasted “beans” into the barrels as well. In Scotland used to buy millions of used Bourbon barrels because, the spring 2017 issue of the American Wine Society Journal, once most of the toast flavor was leached out by the Bourbon, Kristine Austin discusses the influence of toasting oak on the the resulting barrel afforded just the right wood flavor to en- resulting wine. I was in disbelief when she stated that the less hance the already smoky peaty flavor of Scots Whisky. So, once the toast the stronger the oak flavor and the heavier the toast the Bourbon industry stopped using air dried barrels, the Scot- the milder the oak flavor. tish distilleries had to find a new source of barrels. Today, the Scots distillers source air dried barrels from wineries and have Having made wine for over thirty years, that fact went against invested a fortune in seasoning their own barrels by using them everything I thought I knew. So, my friends Tom and Kim LeRoux first for inexpensive blended Scotch and then using the seasoned of LeRoux cut some old staves I had laying around into barrels for their single malts and finer longer aged blends. dice-sized beans and toasted them at vary- ing degrees from very light to very heavy toast. They then put them in quart jars full of a 2015 Marquette that had already been aged in a brand new heavy toast Missouri White Oak air dried barrel. After a few weeks, to our amazement, we discovered that Kristine Austin was correct. The jar with the lightly toasted beans was over- whelmingly oaky (tasted like wood) and that with the heavily toasted beans, didn’t taste much different than the wine straight out of the barrel. So, really, by accident I was right, sort of.

Lightly toasted oak imparts a strong flavor of caramel, butter, toffee and tree sap.

Heavily toasted oak imparts a tamer flavor of vanilla, smoke, coffee and chocolate.

Hence, for the flavors I sought for red wines, I accidentally got a lot more out of the heavily toasted barrels and avoided the flavors that really didn’t improve the flavor of red wine.

3 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Comprehensive Tasting of Wine detrimental. This was proven decades ago by an analysis conducted at the California State fair wine judging.) By Dan Berger Were the wines all judged on the same exact day? When you see an issue of a wine magazine that has If so, problems could exist since those wines tasted reviews for 347 German or 411 Bordeaux, or early in the day with fresh palates might get a fairer anything similar, the implication is that the tasting was judging. If not, problems could exist anyway since wines comprehensive. tasted the second day or even later were done by people But when you see that a gigantic number of wines were with different palates–even if they were the same people! reviewed, do you analyze what that means in logistical (We do not always taste the same day to day.) terms? In fact, tasting 347 I doubt anyone does. German Rieslings We usually take it on (to use our earlier some form of faith that example) in a single the reviews all relate day calls for so many to a single standard. radical changes in Which is never defined. approach that tastings Not to mention the done in the morning fact that such a vast cannot relate to those number sounds as done late in the day. if all the wines were Just the mental judged by the same fatigue alone (one judging standards, and grape variety done that virtually all of the over and over again) wines of that type were leads to a blurring judged. of distinctions from But the mere morning to afternoon. implication that such Then there are the tastings are comprehensive itself is a bit misleading, and confusing issues of high acidity, the use of residual ignores crucial aspects of wine evaluation that are vital to sugar, the impact of alcohol on the palate over time, and an honestly evaluated set of wines. differing temperatures for the wines. For one thing, almost no such judgings can ever be really comprehensive or even close. How many producers Were the corks all pulled at the same time ahead of the of ship wines to the United States? Hundreds? tasting? How many and special designations do they If not, problems could exist. For instance, wines whose have? corks were pulled seconds before pouring could exhibit Moreover, look at some of the parameters involved in trace amounts of off odors. But given a half hour of such judgings: air, such problems could dissipate. Or wines with faint oxidation that is undetectable seconds after -pulling When were the wines shipped? might show that flaw with an hour of air. I know from conducting wine competitions (since 1982) that wines shipped to the competition earliest stand Were screw-capped and corked bottles all treated the the best chance of scoring well. That’s because there is same? more time for the wine to rest at its destination before Were all bottles served at exactly the same evaluation. Wines that arrive by common carrier within temperature? days of the competition are less likely to earn high medals. And we haven’t said anything yet about whether the It gets worse when wine is shipped on a Friday and tasting was blind or not. not received until a Monday. That meant the wines spent I realize the importance of blind tasting, and have some time in a shipper’s warehouse (not air-conditioned) written about it often, but I also believe in the importance for part of the weekend. (Poor storage such as this can be of knowing what a brand is after the blind tasting to verify 4 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL that the wines conform to the house’s style, the region’s Morgan, Stony Hill, Cathy Corison, Alquimista, David typicité, and the ’s character. Ramey, Frog’s Leap, Fox Run of New York, Chehalem, So when I sit down to taste a few of one brand’s new Reustle Prayer Rock, and Brandborg of Oregon and a wines, it usually isn’t done blind. handful of others), and possibly a bit less enthusiasm for I have never claimed I could be comprehensive in my brand-new names whose products might be flashy the tastings. Indeed, I believe no one can be and still maintain first year out, but which fade and/or change in the mode accuracy. I prefer to get to know a region and a brand and ’o day. a winemaker, and track the wines with an infinite sense of On the other hand, there is excitement in seeing new awareness greater than any blind tasting could give. brands that come along with pizzazz and evince delight But remember: I still believe firmly in blind tasting. But because of courage on the part of winemakers. A mix of results of such events are different from tasting wines the two makes for drama, and continues my quest for new from a producer with which I am very familiar. subjects each week. In some ways, tasting familiar wines also allows a sense Still, blind tastings are valid as long as the tasters do not of the house’s aging potential. Those brands with which I attempt to be comprehensive. have a deep familiarity come in for direct criticism based on my awareness of the winery’s past history. I admire Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, Calif., where he consistency. I feel a comfort level with some brands. publishes “Vintage Experiences,” a weekly wine newsletter. It is one reason I will often show great support for the Write to him at [email protected]. same names (Gary Farrell, Dutton-Goldfield, Navarro,

Double Gold Tasting Notes St James Winery NV Country White, Missouri Stone fruit on the nose without a hint of citrus. The flavors from the 2018 Tasters Guild lean towards pears with a touch of apricot. This is a very chewable wine as far as mouth feel. A very nice wine for International Wine Judging the price point. Match it with General Tzo’s Chicken and By Judges Jane Duralia, Larry Elletson and Dick Scheer watch the flavors play.

UP TO $8.00 Barefoot Cellars NV , California Strawberry cake frosting aroma. Attractive strawberry Barefoot Cellars N.V. , California taste, too. Fully what it intends to be. Very, very well True Riesling nose with that sunny California demeanor, crafted. Appealing to a wide audience. Serve with a it features appealing acid etch that tingles the nostrils. Western omelet. At 7.0 RS, it‛s rightly sweet, tasting of peach, apricot, and vanilla creme. Fully as intended, this will get a lot of folks started on Riesling. Bravo! Serve with lemon pound cake. $8.01 TO $10.00

Jacob’s Creek 2017 Moscato Classic, Australia Baron Herzog 2017 , California Subtle citrus on the nose with honey or honeysuckle Herbaceous, floral overtones. Soft, pleasant mouth feel, bringing up the bouquet. The sugar level gives this wine refreshing fruit in mid palate. Hint of Mediterranean a very soft mouthfeel. The flavor leans towards honey spices. Roasted Greek chicken with roasted butternut without a lot of fruit to muddy up the wine’s complexity. squash cubes and grilled garlic asparagus. Serve this with sparkling water over ice and enjoy the afternoon at the beach. Barefoot Bubbly NV Prosecco, Italy Attractive mousse and bubbles. Slightly sweet version of Barefoot Cellars NV , California a Prosecco but not cloying. Enjoy at ice cold temperature Deep ruby color. Black cherry with a hint of mint in the but also give strong consideration for using this as a base nose. Dark fruit notes on the tongue with acidic follow- for your weekend Mimosas! thru. Full bodied and a good value for the money. Serve with grilled ribs, , lamb, and goat/feta cheese.

5 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL St. Julian Winery NV Michcato, Michigan Thirsty Owl Wine Co. 2017 Diamond, New York Pleasant aroma of stone fruit with a slight touch of raw Pleasant aromatic qualities, crisp fruit in the palate with almonds. Excellent balance between the fruit and acid. a hint of Muscadine influence. Lingering fruit finish. This Enjoy this wine with Vietnamese Pho or spicy Thai food. easy drinking hybrid wine will compliment a hearty , hamburgers, or simple macaroni and cheese. Hazlett 1852 Vyds. NV White Cat, New York Just the nose tells you that this is a wine made with $10.01 TO $13.00 American grapes. I’m guessing that this is primarily a Concord wine with a touch of Niagria to round out the Carmenet 2015 , California nose. Blend this with sparkling water or club soda for a Black cherry nose with a hint of black pepper. Flavor runs refreshing summer drink. towards sweet Bing cherries and fully ripened blackberry. No overpowering spice or tannin on the finish. Pair this L.A. Cetto 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mexico with a grilled flank or loin. The needs a Dark berry/stone fruit surrounds the palate, with a little char to bring out the wine’s highlights. pleasurable experience. Lingering finish enjoying the tannic finish. Can stand up to an Herbaceous (, pork, Campo Viejo 2016 Garnacha , Spain ) seasoned with , herbs and a Worcestershire Dark red in color, still a young wine. Dark fruit with just influence. a touch of anise on the nose. Nice fruit/acid balance with more tannin than acid on the finish. Still young and Eagles Landing Winery NV Campfire Hooch, Iowa tight. Serve with a herbed roast beef with roasted brussel Rich aroma, like a fresh cup of mixed berries, pleasantly sprouts or root vegetables. balanced, fruity through the palate, lovely crisp finish. Easy drinking wine, can stand Conviction Wines, 2016 “The Industrialist,” British alone or with a cheese board Columbia, Canada of Havarti, Brie, blue cheese and Gorgonzola. Intense flavor and acid but with a touch of sweetness. Light on the tongue with a very long Barefoot Bubbly NV Berry Sparkling, California finish. This wine finishes with notes of stone fruit (apricot) A very delightful sparkler with a nice mousse that and would be excellent with grilled and calamari falls slowly and the bubbles keep coming. Exceptional drizzled with garlic infused oil. effervescence in the mouth with a full fruit flavors. Well balanced and long lasting aftertaste. Drop a couple of Carmenet 2016 , California frozen raspberries or strawberries in the glass and enjoy Blended berries, vibrant fruit, mellow tannins, soft fruit on the beach. palate, lightly balanced. Pairs well with Beef Stew/ cubed steak and , Cedar Creek Winery 2017 Waterfall Riesling, Wisconsin vegetable lasagna and Wiener Snitzel This is an off-dry Riesling in the Mosel style. Slight petrol on the nose with a hint of “bridal veil” blossoms. Lots Ackerman NV , Iowa of fruit on the palate and aftertaste. Try this with a nice A light hint of honey in the nose and a slight hint of orange wienersnitzel topped with fresh squeezed lemon juice and in the aroma. Pleasantly balanced given the 9.0 residual spaetzle dumplings on the side. sugar. A well made Mead for the senses that is sure to please. Serve with baked Brie. Eagles Landing NV Blackberry, Iowa Intense blackberry nose, distinctive fresh fruit in palate. Conviction 2016 “Dreamers & Schemers,” British Superb berry finish with lingering natural fruit sweetness. Columbia, Canada Great with a medium flavored cheese board or would be a Sharp acidic nose, earthy, hint of fields of flowers, mellow wonderful reduction sauce for a pork tenderloin. palate, and soft finish. Spicy Beef Enchiladas, Fish Tacos with spicy sauce. Wine will soothe out the sharpness of the food, mellow fruit finish. Excellent food wine!

6 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Great American Wine Co. 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, enough to serve as an aperitif. Amazing subtlety here. California Bravo! A perfect match with tapas-like appetizers. Rich, fruit forward, slight green pepper / vegetal nose. Round palate fruit enhanced. Tannins nicely balanced Brys Estate 2017 Riesling/, Old Mission with a lingering finish. Seared pork tenderloin medallions, Peninsula, Michigan roasted cauliflower with garlic accents. Agreeable petrol in the nose. Pleasurable mouth feel. The Pinot Gris adds a very nice complexity to the Riesling Breezy Hills 2017 Edelweiss, Iowa making this wine capable of crossing various food Luscious apple/pear fruit. Creamy mid palate of categories. Pair with baked cheese, fresh fruits (green sweetness. Soft, lingering finish. Would be at home on the grapes and strawberries). Also serve with a firm white fish dinner table of Roasted breast, herb gravy, creamy like Mako shark or cod. parsley potatoes small fresh English Peas/braised carrots. Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2015 Dry Riesling, Finger Creek Vineyard 2017 Black Current Mead Wine, Lakes, New York Wisconsin A satisfying hint of a petrol nose, dry floral back notes as Delightful cherry/berry compote nose and carried into far as bouquet. Honeysuckle finish on the tongue with the black currant, honey and grape flavors all through the a hint of white pepper. Try this with Thai Pad Thai or palate. Pleasant lingering finish. Use the wine to caramelize Vietnamese Pho. or combine with apples and pears and create a fruit Gazette (baked crust engulfed fruit/glaze). Ferrante 2016 “Golden Bunches” Dry Riesling, Ohio Non-ripe stone fruit, white peach, nectarine, slight petrol, Chateau Petit Michel 2016 , New Jersey round full mouth feel, creamy, fruity. Would pair well with Very dark-fruited for Cabernet Franc. Very velvety, Quiche Lorraine for brunch and outdoor entertaining. luxurious. Nicely spicy aroma too. Overall, this is Cabernet Franc on steroids. 2016 growing season heat summations Laurentide Winery 2016 Pinot Gris, Michigan brought it to maximum ripeness. Super-sized and Citrus, sharp fruity nose, fruit flavor (oranges, Kiwi, wonderful. Serve with roast. apricot). Soft, pleasing palate. Pair nicely with Baked Scrod topped with roasted peppers, onions and sliced tomatoes $13.01 TO $16.00 topped with Havarti cheese or marinate fresh shrimp over mixed greens. Braganini Reserve 2017 Rosé, Michigan Fruity bouquet, hints of strawberry, floral overtones. An Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2016 Semi-dry Riesling, Finger excellent example of today’s popular style of dry rosé. Lakes, New York A real consumer pleaser. Pairs well with Chicken Divan, Crisp, light, fruity aromas of apple, pear, and a hint of Turkey Tetrazzini, Grilled with a pea risotto. melon. Medium mid-palate, creamy mouth feel, long lasting fruit in the finish. An agreeable companion for Langetwins Winery 2017 Rosé, California homemade pasta (linguine) with white sauce. Soft aromas of strawberry and raspberry meshed with tropical melon fruit in the mouth feel followed by a Dakota Sun Gardens 2017 Aronia, North Dakota pleasing dry sensation in the back of the palate. The Rich berry aroma. Full bodied, fruity mouthfeel from this structure/palate of this lovely dry rosé would present an little known prairie grown fruit used long ago in Native interesting pairing with a five cheese Mac and cheese American diets. Lingering semi-sweet, honey-like finish. topped with Bacon crumbles. Good Pizza or BBQ enhancer.

Campo Viejo NV Cava Grand Brut Reserva, Spain Jacob’s Creek 2016 Reserve Shiraz, Australia Attractive creamy, doughy, leesy yeast-autolysis aromas Enticing blackberry bouquet. Slight hint of alcohol. Black suggest this has had long aging on its bottle lees. Not fruit is predominant on the tongue with surprisingly low a hint of that earthiness that marks lesser Cavas. The acidity. Full mouth feel. Aftertaste runs toward sweet mousse is exuberant, which gives this Cava a very dry cherry without any acid. Pair this with smoked , impression. Unlike many of its peers, this is buoyant , or dry rubbed ribs without sauce. 7 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL D o m a i n e B e r r i e n C e l l a r s 2 0 1 6 R e d S a ti n , M i c h i g a n $16.01 TO $20.00 Light cherry nose, enduring fruit flavors on the palate. Soft lingering finish. Good with Spanish omelet, Sunday North 42 Degrees Estate 2017 Sweet Riesling, Ontario, brunch, Country Style steak and creamy garlic potatoes. Canada Very bright, cool, northern apple and peach Riesling Heron Hill Winery 2016 Riesling Semi-Dry, Finger Lakes, aromas. Certainly up to the quality level of the Niagara New York Peninsula Rieslings. Ample sweetness countered by ample A very pretty peaches-and-cream Riesling aroma. A lovely acidity. Good flavor intensity. Singular for its regionality. degree of ripeness in this vintage. In youth, the acidity Not a knockoff of a Riesling from any of the more familiar remains lightly coated with sweetness. Nonetheless, it’s winegrowing zones. This is very versatile at the table up to its calling. Harmoniously accomplished, and not thanks to its modest 2.9 RS. Present with cantaloupe excessively fruity on the palate, this will prove versatile at wedges wrapped in thin-sliced Westphalian . the table. Offer in confidence with cold shrimp salad. M. Lawrence Winery 2017 “Once” Sparkling Riesling, Thirsty Owl Wine Co. 2016 Riesling Semi-Sweet, Finger Michigan Lakes, New York Fruity aroma. Crisp with nice mouthfeel. Lingering Freshness and lift here. It penetrates and tingles the fruity finish. A skillfully made demi-sec sparkler. Will nostrils. It’s a nose you can feel. Nice, peachy Riesling be delightful with a vegetable (mushroom, zucchini or take. Creamy texture on the palate. The acidity is up to asparagus) bacon frittata. the sweetness, so there’s no sense of sticky-sweet taste. Good flavor intensity. Very versatile at the table thanks to With the Wind Winery 2016 Expanse Fresh Red, South its degree of acidity. Beautiful Finger Lakes Riesling. Serve Dakota with truite au bleu. Medium dark red fruit. Light pepper. Hint of Green Pepper, Medium palate feel. Acidic finish with overtones of light Ferrante 2016 Riesling Signature Series, Ohio fruit. Serve with grilled beef, pork roast or a nice thick Rib Brisk, cool-climate Riesling. A clear, stimulating and Eye. ventilating take on Riesling. Flavorful under ripe peach and Granny Smith apple. Good acidity, still slightly masked Braganini 2016 Reserve, Lake Michigan by its sweetness. Pleasing tenderness to the taste. Yet Shore, Michigan another Double Gold-worthy Eastern American Riesling. Genuine and generous attributes. Beautiful, Delicious with pan-fried . dignified, completely ripe and proud Chambourcin. My favorite non-vinifera Eastern American red varietal. This Prairie Berry Winery NV “Calamity Jane,” South Dakota reminds of a southern Rhone Valley red wine of a cool The category is Concord. The aroma is of well made, spot vintage. It expresses strawberry, raspberry, black pepper, on Concord, crafted to reveal aromatic clarity without and Provencal herb-flower airs. There‛s a roundness, tipping to overwhelming foxiness. Handsome. Flavorful. breadth, and depth about it that suggests barrel aging. Pleasantly balanced at 9.0 RS against innate Concord Flavorful, accurate, and well balanced in terms of fruit astringency and bitterness. Clean, inviting, long lasting richness and fruit acidity. Outstanding Chambourcin. Pair aftertaste. A hallmark Concord achievement. Tells the tale. it with cassoulet. Serve with chocolate-dipped figs. Spero Winery 2014 “Vino è Buono” Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau Grand Traverse 2016 Gruner Veltliner, Michigan Colorado This is an excellent example of Gruner Veltliner. Lots of Engaging old black cherry fruit aroma and influenced floral on the nose, with a very good mouth feel. While the flavor profile. Could be paired with an old country stew acid cuts the richness of the wine, the finish is excellent (meat /potatoes/ veggies). The vegetable influence and long lasting. Serve this with fried chicken and fried enhances and mellows out the acidity for a beautiful okra. The acid will cut the taste and accentuate the marriage of flavors. flavor of the chicken and okra.

8 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Rove Estates 2017 Riesling, Michigan Brys Estate 2016 Riesling Reserve, Old Mission Peninsula, Aroma of crispy, fresh fruit. Crisp bright flavor. Creamy, Michigan medium dry mouthfeel. Balanced acidity. Pairs well with Fresh and bright nose; in fact, crystalline clarity to its Tomato Bisque, Chowder, or simple Thai dishes. Riesling aroma. Special apple and orange facets of Riesling. Wonderfully brisk, northern grown Riesling Santa Barbara Winery 2016 Chardonnay, California acidity balanced by 2.0 RS ‛Kabinett‛ sweetness. The Appealing fresh fruit aromatics. A delightful blend of flavors are still building. The textural harmony is already berries selected from a mixture of cool and warmer spot on. Fully deserving of its award. Offer a glass or two climate . Lightly oaked with lingering spicy fruit with planked whitefish. in finish. Pairs well with Steamed in a garlic and broth. Soaring Wings Vineyard 2016 Omaha Red, Nebraska Ruby red in color with good depth. Light in nose with hints Chateau Fontaine 2017 , Leelanau Peninsula, of Blackberry and a hint of cranberry. Dry with good sugar Michigan acid balance. Aftertaste continues after several swallows. Breathless, bright, clear, classic varietal aroma. Perhaps Moderate tannin with blackberry and wild/sour cherry on the best-ever vintage in this fabulous Chateau Fontaine the tongue. Serve with venison, roasted pork with a nice Pinot Blanc series. Certainly a challenger to the great 2013 layer of fat to counter the acid. and 2014 that won unprecedented back-to-back trophies at the Michigan Wine Competition. Tense, tailored apple Chateau Fontaine 2016 Pinot Noir, Michigan and melon varietal aromas. Juicy honey crisp apple flavor. Bright fruity nose, claret color, mixed berries, hint of Already perfectly accomplished at this young age. Triple melon. Light on the palate with balanced acidity. Would Gold on my scoresheet; perfect marks. Serve with rainbow pair well with roasted vegetables, eggplant parmesan, and slivered almonds. vegetable flatbread, and grilled pork tenderloin.

Truro Vineyard of Cape Cod 2016 Chardonnay, $20.01 TO $25.00 Massachusetts Superbly oaked; a beautiful caramel-toffee impression, Alexander Valley Vineyards 2014 Redemption, lightly applied, so the fruit comes forth. And the fruit is Dry Creek Valley, California wonderfully ripe, while crisp and northern-grown too. Sweet fruited, black fruited, bold. Certainly a substantial, Great oak/fruit display and harmony. On the palate, subtle forthright Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel effort. Full measure cool-climate apple emphasis. Chardonnay character and of AVV oakiness. This winery presents everything full ultra-subtle oak extracts. Good body, fullness, acidity, and blast. This one goes to eleven. Little wonder at 16.1% balance. The complete picture. Very versatile at the table alcohol. Wears its power well because it has so much fruit including sage-rubbed roast chicken. sweetness and succulence. Quite a bit of tannin yet, so serve it with hearty fare like Kansas City style spareribs. Blumenhof 2017 Vignoles, Missouri Subtle flowers on the nose and bouquet of honeysuckle North 42 Degrees Estate 2017 Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, or Lilies of the Valley. Nice mouth feel with a quite Ontario, Canada pleasant aftertaste that continues long after the initial sip. Long mousse with nice bubble activity. Citrus (lime) on Touch of honey on the tongue and then the fruit kicks in. the nose with crisp citrus flavors. This bubbly has a long Predominately a sweet Red Delicious flesh taste with a lasting finish. Try serving with freshly shucked or a follow up of Lichee fruit. Serve with a crisp green salad of bucket of steamer mussels. Yum! arugula and walnuts. Rove Estates 2017 Pinot Blanc, Michigan Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod NV Diamond, Enticing crispy tree fruit aroma. Lovely pear and melon Massachusetts flavors on the palate, nicely balanced and a smooth Crisp, fresh aroma with just a hint of foxiness, light tropical lingering finish. Pairs well with mixed green salad of fresh fruit flavor on the palate. Grape similar to Muscadine flavor pears, walnuts and Manchego cheese shavings. and does well in the Northeast. Pairs well with Venison Chili or Venison Roast with roasted root vegetables. 9 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL B Side/North Coast 2016 Pinot Noir, California $25.01 TO $35.00 Rich berry fruit, hint of cassis, rich depth in palate, acid balanced, rich mouth feel. Yearns for slight fattiness of Santa Barbara Winery 2014 Sangiovese, Stolpmon Vyd., grilled pork with a fruit reduction sauce, grilled lamb California shanks (Osso Bucco) and arugula, blue cheese and grilled Deep ruby color, raspberry and black cherries in the pear salad. nose. A little earthiness in the bouquet. Wild cherry and raspberry on the palate with a long finish. Excellent St. James Winery 2016 Dry Vignoles, Missouri fruit/acid balance. Serve with a rich lasagna or a spicy Nothing says Vignoles like a wine with a very floral nose. putanesca pasta. This one has it. Tasting just continues the floral aspect of the wine. The richness is expressed in the mouth feel Effingham Winery 2017 Rosé, Virginia asking to be savored and chewed. The taste is apricot and Aromas of cotton candy, melon, apricots and even floral pears with a touch of honey. Serve this with chicken fajita hints. Soft, creamy mouthfeel, Lingering, pleasant acidic that has been marinated in a chili/sriracha sauce and a finish. Pair with Fried Calamari (not tangy sauce, just mix of red, orange, and yellow peppers. neat), mushroom bites or vegetable tempura.

Nevada Ridge 2015 Primitivo, Nevada Holy Cross Abbey Winery 2016 , Colorado Rich, dark fruit aroma, blackberry, anise blend, fruit Mixed berries, dark fruit, herbaceous. Warm alcohol feel through the palate. Slight pepper notes in the finish. in palate fruity overtones Food friendly wine. Pairs well with beef stew, chili, mixed with a soft tannic finish. Bolognaise with homemade pasta vegetable and meat casserole with a creamy sauce. or grilled enchiladas with Salas Verde. Von Stiehl 2014 , Wisconsin Rich deep color as well as aroma: dark berries, very food Basalt Cellars 2015 , Washington friendly. Enjoy with deli sandwiches, grilled pimento, Rich cherry-berry aroma with hints of currants, voluptuous turkey and cheese, club sandwich. mouthfeel, lingering through the palate with gratifying finish. Grilled lamb chops with Moroccan rub, served with Laurentide Winery 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé, Michigan either steamed sugar snaps or balsamic seared Brussel Strawberry/melon nose, fresh crisp aroma, small berries sprouts and roasted red potatoes. in palate taste. Delicate yet confident flavors. Good food wine with the acidity necessary to pair w/ certain foods. Morais Winery 2016 Cabernet Franc, Virginia Chicken Chimichanga, hazelnut crusted roasted salmon. Cabernet Franc is instant relief after Cabernet Sauvignon‛s Spinach, gorgonzola, power and tannin. Appropriate Cabernet Franc levity and strawberry salad. red raspberry aroma. Plus an attractive ‛sweet‛ oak veneer. Everything fits together so well and delivers a whole Cuvee Wine Cellars 2013 Merlot, Carneros, California greater than the sum of the parts. Even rounder and Attractive mixed berry flavors with earthy notes and more succulent on the palate. Beautiful oak inter-weaves distinctive acid. An excellent blending from neighboring throughout its berry flavors. Masterful accomplishment. vineyards for this boutique winery in San Carlos. Good What an enormous showing for Virginia Cabernet Francs with Chili, cream based soups like butternut squash will today! Offer with London Broil. balance the acidity. Balistreri 2016 , Colorado Brys Estate 2015 Cabernet Franc/Merlot, Michigan Smoke with dark sweet fruits on the nose. Very nice 50/50. Dab of oak and plenty of ripe, red fruit. Very balance between fruit and acid, Bing cherry notes on the skillfully imparted barrel embellishments. Complete tongue with a long finish. Suggested food pairing would package. Double Gold nose for sure. On the palate, be with Memphis style ribs. attractive herbal extras chime in: basil, oregano. Yes, ripe fruit flavor with oak fully in tandem. Very well fashioned overall. Enjoy it with duck breast and cherry sauce.

10 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Víctor Hugo 2015 , California Lafond Winery 2014 Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills, California Deep, rich, red color from the rim edge to the center. Rich, Deluxe nose replete with oak vanillin and warm spices dark fruit leaning towards blackberry and Bing cherries on hovering over a fine Chardonnay citrus base. It really is the nose with just a touch of smoke. Fantastic mouth feel, luxurious! Despite the emphasis on lavish flavor and texture, this is a sit-down, enjoyable and chewable wine. Good the wine is well balanced thanks to its Chardonnay citrusy balance between the fruit, sugar, and acid. A nice blend of acidity, good power, and oak tannin framework. This is no black and sour cherries with blackberry coming in at the cream-puff! A serious dinner wine, and will standout with end. This wine demands high-end beef like a Delmonico roast . with a pepper rub. $50.01 TO $65.00 Fifty-Third Winery 2015 Cabernet Franc, Virginia Virginia Cabernet Franc, where have you been all my LaFond 2013 Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California life?! Sweet and succulent red raspberry fruit; masterfully Dark cherries aroma. Hint of melon, soft fruit in palate, easy oaked as well. Couldn’t ask for a better Cabernet Franc drinking. Seared veal with grilled onions/crumbled bacon or nose. Plus all its attributes reverberate on the palate. Hungarian goulash-minimal spices. Well balanced. The fine grained tannin of Cabernet Franc. Serve with saddle of . Spangler Vineyard 2014 , Oregon Cotton candy nose, earthy, dark cherries/blackberries, vibrant Forchini Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, flavors enhance. The nose is wild cherry with a hint of white pepper. This Serve with dry rub of herbs/garlic; BBQ Pork/Beef Sloppy wine has a very nice fruit/acid balance. Pleasing amount Joes or simple country food. of tannin in the aftertaste with a long, amiable fruit finish. Drink this with a lightly veined Stilton cheese or serve with ZD 2016 Pinot Noir, Carneros, California pork chops and wild mushrooms. Ruby red color. Bright/promises of flavors, Med fruit/melon/ plum, dark fruit, creamy rich palate. Very food compatible: $35.01 TO $50.00 burgers/blue cheese, Tapas type wine.

Bargetto 2016 Merlot Reserve, California $65.01+ Dark ruby color, very little separation in color between rim and base. Blackberries with blank cherry notes in ZD Wines 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California the background. Nice mouth feel with a bit of acid finish. Large, deep, dark, firm nose in keeping with the winery‛s Dark cherry fruit continues through the finish. Serve with style. Wonderfully integrated oak aromas as always. Oak roasted pork loin with a salted crust and a side of mashed never puts a lid on the fruit in ZD Cabernet Sauvignons. The sweet potatoes. palate has yet to up its potential flavor and texture bounties. Fresh acidity of the vintage. Full, fine tannins. Best Narmada Winery 2014 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Virginia to cellar this awhile. It has all the fixings. Then bring it out for Full fruit richness and ripeness befitting of a Reserve entrecote en bearnaise. wine. Generous oak vanillin incorporation here. too. And, they‛re in harmony. On the palate, beautiful baking-spices ZD Wines 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley, barrel extracts. Ripe red raspberry, toffee, mocha extras. California First class; Double Gold all the way. Serve with lamb A year older and no doubt longer in cooperage, the 2014 magrez . Reserve is more forthcoming than the 2015 ‛regular‛ ZD Cabernet Sauvignon. Deeper, darker, and larger, this is Fazeli Vineyards 2014 Shiraz, Temecula, California befitting of a Reserve wine. And its aromatics are more Deep and valid Syrah aroma that reflects the coolness of demonstrative in terms of fruit, oak, and barrel aging. The Temecula. Plenty of varietal clarity in a New World setting. palate is rounder, more velvety, and more accessible at Smooth oak lacings. Well crafted, well balanced. Yes, a present than the 2015. Well aerated, I could take this to balance of acidity and glycerol. Try it with ostrich . the table without hesitation. Always a traditional, solid, and wonderful Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Indulge with chateaubriand and someone special. 11 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL The Mystery of Foam in the least 2/3 cup of cold milk, even chilled in the freezer for Kitchen a couple of minutes then keep the nozzle just under the milk surface. By David Theiste, PhD • Pour fresh cold milk into a lidded jar, close the lid There are three foams that are common in the kitchen: and shake vigorously for about 20 seconds (let the milk foams (also called frothed milk), whipped cream and kids do the shaking) egg foams, or meringues. • To stabilize the foam, remove the lid and micro- Milk foams are the least stable of the three, in part wave on high for 30 seconds, or until the foam because the protein molecules in the milk that stabilize rises to the top. the foam are sparse in the milk. These foams are typically prepared just before they are served, for example your Cream foams are stable because the fat particles in cappuccino has a freshly made milk foam. The foam water (remember that cream is an emulsion of fat drops in does more than look nice in the cup, it helps prevent water) circle around air drops which are then surrounded the formation of a skin on the surface of the drink, it by water. In order to make cream suitable for whipping also helps keep the drink warm by forming an insolating it must contain at least 30% fat, this you will find in the layer on the top of the beverage and slows down cooling grocery as “light” or single whipping cream. Cream caused by evaporation. containing more that 38% is called “heavy.” Light whipping cream will produce a lighter foam, however it is more The Science of Foam prone to leak water, thus heavy cream with its denser and If you take water in a jar and shake it up, nothing stiffer foam is generally preferred for baked goods and happens. If you add a bit of liquid soap and shake the use as a decorative finish on desserts. mixture you get bubbles. What is going on? We have Cream foams can be made by hand whisking, a recipe seen in the past how we can make mixtures of oil and from Sir Kenelm Digby in 1699 calls for pouring cream into water by making small droplets of oil and dispersing them a dish and whisking for an hour in the winter and an hour into the water. These mixtures, called emulsions, are and a half in the summer using a “bundle of hard rushes.” one example of what are more generally called “colloids.” Today we can use a balloon whisk and chill the cream to Colloids are defined as having a “continuous phase” and a reduce the amount of labor required to whip cream, or we “dispersed phase” and in all cases are two substances that could use an electric mixer. The mixer will not give quite we do not normally think of as being soluble or miscible the same volume as hand whipping, but will reduce the with each other to make a stable mixture. effort required. Another way we can make a colloid is with a gas (air) Cream foams can also be made using a pressurized and a liquid. If we make drops of air and suspend them in canister, commercially available devices use pressurized the liquid we make what are called “foams.” By the way, cream with nitrous oxide, the gas dissolves in the fat in a colloid where the liquid is dispersed in air is an aerosol, the cream, when the nozzle of the canister is opened the fog is an example of this. You have seen and probably dissolved gas expands creating a light fluffy foam. made foams in your kitchen either by whipping cream or You can take advantage of the pressurized canister with egg whites. In both cases the mechanical action of a whip a “whipping siphon” a device that aerates fresh cream or beaters will mix some air into the liquid and continued with a replaceable nitrous oxide canister. These devices mixing will break the air bubbles down into smaller and allow the home cook to make flavored cream mixes (just smaller drops until the foam becomes stable; that is, it add cocoa or vanilla and sugar to the cream in the siphon does not separate, or deflate. and shake a few seconds). In addition to making whipped cream I have been able Making Milk Foams: to use my siphon to make foams of fruit. I have taken The keys to making stable dairy foams are to use the fruit, grapes, watermelon and cantaloupe and cut them freshest milk available and keep it a cool as possible. into 1” pieces and put them in the siphon and use a CO2 Fortified milk has added protein like that usually found charger to make “fizzy fruit”. in low-fat milk and is more easily foamed. If you have Here is a white chocolate mousse recipe that I have used an espresso machine with the steam attachment use at and liked very much, it comes from Bon Appetit magazine.

12 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL For White Chocolate Mousse For the Chocolate Sauce o 8 ounces white chocolate, chopped o 3o bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped o 1 cup chilled whipping cream o 6 tablespoons cream o 1 tablespoons light corn syrup o 2 tablespoons corn syrup

Preparation For the Mousse For the Chocolate Sauce

Stir white chocolate, 1/4 cup cream and 1 tablespoon Bring remaining 6 tablespoons cream and remaining syrup in heavy small saucepan over low heat until 2 tablespoons corn syrup to simmer in heavy small chocolate is melted and smooth.Pour into medium bowl; saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low; add cool to barely lukewarm. Using electric mixer, beat 3/4 cup bittersweet chocolate and stir until melted and smooth. cream in medium bowl to medium-firm peaks. Fold cream Cool to room temperature. Spoon enough sauce over into white chocolate mixture in 2 batches. Divide mousse each mousse to cover completely. Garnish with mint, if among 4 custard cups. Cover and refrigerate until firm, desired. about 4 hours. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead.)

Retailer‛s Shelf Portell N.V. Cava Trepat Rosat Brut, Spain $15 Vinicola de Sarral was founded in 1907 and began cavas Cava By Dick Scheer, Village Corner - Ann Arbor, Michigan producing in 1984. is a term for Spanish made by the method, its use limited to just a few winegrowing regions, including Portell‛s origin, Conca de , west of Barcelona. Rare Trepat is the foundation of Portell‛s sparkling rose. A small amount of Trepat is grown outside this winery‛s vineyards. Good pink fruit character. Hefty and giving nose. Flavorful too. Strawberry and red raspberry. Fine mousse. Plenty of quality fruit personality. Finely textured. Ideal with tapas.

La Pepiere 2016 Sevre Et Maine Sur Lie, France $15 Muscadet vines thrive near the mouth of France‛s Loire River, along its tributaries Sevre and Maine. Most Muscadet wines rest on their lees in cisterns until bottled in spring following the . Pepiere proprietor/ winemaker Marc Ollivier hand-harvests from 40+ year old vines and ferments on native yeasts. The nose dazzles. Impressive grace, finesse, and delicacy. As well as plenty of body and give. On the palate, an elegant touch. Good acid, etch, and length. Volume as well as charm. Enjoy this ‛poor man‛s Chablis‛ with a plate of raw oysters.

13 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Bertani 2016 Venezia-Giulia Pinot Grigio Velante, signature white grape variety. Floral aromas: rose, mum. Italy $15 Clean, clean, clean. Clear as a bell. Yes, dry, cool, clear in Bertani was founded in 1857, around the time of the the mouth too. Cold cream, gewurz like perfumes. Fine Italian unification. I‛ve proudly sold its wines for over 50 acid foil. Serve with pescado en cilantro. years. Bertani‛s Pinot Grigio, aged three months on its lees, hails from the far northeast corner of Italy. The nose Fantini 2017 Cerasuolo D‛ Rosato, Italy $12 is bright, crisp, full, even lucid. Golden Delicious apple, Fantini wines are fashioned at the Farnese winery. pear, citrus. The palate is juicy and clear. Apple, bay, and Farneses have been making wine in Abruzzo, on central tonic. A joy for its clarity. Delicious with -noodle Italy‛s Adriatic coast, since the 1600s. From Abruzzo‛s casserole. leading red grape, Montepulciano, this Cerasuolo (rose) was macerated with its grapeskins barely six hours to Chateau La Graviere 2017 Entre Deux Mers, France $9 achieve its brilliant pink hue. It‛s sweet smelling, like The heart of Bordeaux‛s winegrowing region is called strawberry creme. And vanilla frosting. Coolness and Entre deux Mers, in English, ‛Between Two Seas.‛ clarity in back, with great fresh strawberry character. Its Actually, its rivers that bound this peninsula: Dordogne palate features an attractive yin-yang of ripe and tart red and Garonne. EDM is a wellspring of everyday dry white fruits, especially cranberry and cherry. Melt sheep‛s milk Bordeaux wines. La Graviere is of 50% Semillon, 40% cheese over scrambled eggs for a simple treat any meal of Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% Muscadelle. The nose is marked the day. by racy Sauvignon and earthy Semillon impressions. On the palate, Sauvignon grass and citrus hovers over a Hahn Family 2016 Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon foundation. Splendid with a plateau de fruits de California $15 mer. Nicky Hahn founded Hahn Family Wines in 1980. Last year, he was named an ‛American Wine Pioneer‛ by Wine Columna 2016 Rias Baixas Albarino, Spain $15 Enthusiast magazine for his efforts in establishing the Rias Baixas is a sub-zone of Galicia, northwest Spain, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA on California‛s north Central Green Spain. Albarino is its top white grape variety. Coast. Of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 2% Columna Albarino hails from granite soils in its Malbec, this 2016 is certain to appeal to lovers of big, southernmost sector. The nose sports freshness, zest, barrel aged Cabernets. 60% of the barrels were new. Real flair; aromas of quince, pear, honeysuckle. On the palate, fruit intensity and fortitude on the nose. And plenty of there‛s very fresh citric and minerality. Beautiful flavor oak. The taste confirms this is pretty darn husky, bulky range and definition. Pair with chickentikka masala. and mouthfilling. Prominent Cabernet and oak flavors, as well as full texture. Big time steakhouse wine at a bargain Ryan Patrick 2016 Columbia Valley Chardonnay Naked, price. Washington $11 This family winery at Leavenworth WA is named for the Bodega Piedra Negra 2017 Tunuyan Malbec Ruta 22, founders‛ two sons. It has only limited vineyard acreage $12 so sources also from some of Columbia Valley‛s top sites. Named for the black, stony soils of the Uco Valley west It‛s not the first to name its unwooded (or unoaked) of Mendoza, Piedra Negra was founded in 1992 by the Chardonnay ‛naked.‛ Columbia Valley is well suited to Lurton brothers, scions of a famous Bordeaux dynasty. this type of Chardonnay presentation. Wow, a full, clear Ruta 22 is the main highway across northern Patagonia Washington Chardonnay without apple-citrus domination from port city Bahia Blanca to the . The nose is rich thanks to lees aging and partial malolactic fermentation. and smoky. Thoroughly, this is one of the best vintages Its round mouthfeel is balanced by an astringent edge of Ruta 22. It‛s saturated with goodness. Yes, abundant that invites poached salmon with a squeeze of lemon.. flavors of cherry and pit, raspberry and seed, echo all its aromatic bounties. Match with Argentine beef Tilia 2017 Salta Torrontes, Argentina $10 empanadas. Or Michigan pasties! Tilia is made at Bodegas Esmeralda, whose winemaker is also in charge of Catena‛s vineyards. Its Torrontes comes from a 5500’ elevation site near Salta, in northwest Argentina. Dry, aromatic Torrontes is the country‛s 14 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL La Capranera 2016 Campania , Italy $15 Malbec, and vines contribute to this Aussie Campania‛s top red grape variety, Aglianico (derivative classic. It sports an oak-barrel smoky potpourri plus of ‛Hellenico,‛ its origin, Greece), is grown in vineyards raspberry Shiraz, strawberry , cherry Malbec, lying in the midst of Cilento National Park, where graze and blueberry Petit Verdot notions. The palate is lush an indigenous breed of black goats (capra nera). Classic, with fruit filling contained in an oak framework. I‛m high toned Naples area Aglianico nose. Full, intense, thinking BBQ spareribs with a sweet and spicy sauce. penetrating black fruit. Joyous, buoyant. The taste reads Bodegas Eguia 2013 Rioja Reserva Vina Eguia, Spain $14 fresh and accomplished. Sweet fruited, full varietal Vina Eguia was established in 1973 in Elciego, an historic character. Well textured. Fine tannins. Delicious. Enjoy village of Rioja Alavesa near Basque country. Eguia with Neapolitan pizza, preferably made with San Marzano means ‛truth‛ in the Basque tongue. Its 2013 Reserva was tomatoes. sourced from 30-40 year old vines in both Alavesa and Rioja Alta. Suitable to Reserva standards, it was aged 24 Marietta N.V. Lot 67 Old Vine Red, California $15 months in American oak barrels (30% new) and a further The winery is at Geyserville and has 1500 acres of year in bottle. Fine oak and fruit bouquet. Elegance, vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. Its lot charm, proportion. Sandalwood aura. Yes, the palate series has been made since 1978. Lot #67 is from four confirms fine fruit, fine texture, fine oak. This summer, vintages and at least five grape varieties and is 90% take a bottle or two to a pig roast. estate grown. Lot series reds range from 60% to 80% Zinfandel and include Petite Sirah, Syrah, Carignane, and Capriani Bellini, Italy $16 a field blend of Italian varieties. Rich and right Zinfandel- Once frequented by Ernest Hemingway, Harry‛s Bar in emphatic nose. A confirmation of rich raspberry flavor Venice is an institution. In 1948, its founder, Guiseppe laced with cracked black pepper on the palate. Good, full Capriani, invented a cocktail he named Bellini, composed texture. Calls for nothing fancier than hamburgers off the of half each white peach pulp and Prosecco. Even if you grill. can find Mediterranean white peaches, you can‛t do much better homemade than this bottled Bellini original. Hopes End 2016 South Australia Red, Australia $12 Gorgeous white peach and apple-citrus (Prosecco The Trinchero family (of Sutter Home fame) has a stake grape) aromas. Yes, the palate talks white peach all the in South Australia‛s Angove Family Vineyards. Grown way. Balanced and delicious. Brunch on the deck beckons. in deep, sandy loam over limestone, Shiraz, Grenache, The Beauty of Carménère in southwest France. Back in the day, it was a crucial component of the classic blend of red grapes used to craft By Michael Schafer claret. After the decimation of the French vineyards by the dreaded invasion of the late 1800s, this As Malbec is to Argentina, Carménère is to . Both grape was virtually ignored by the French. Some grape are French in origin but have found their true homes in growers believed it had become extinct and it became South America. Carménère is Chile’s unofficial national known as the “lost grape of Bordeaux.” grape just as Malbec is the leading grape of Argentina. The Spanish first brought wine to Chile These neighboring South American countries produce in the mid 1500s. Vines planted around the valleys of some of the most flavorful wine from the Southern almost immediately began to flourish in their Hemisphere. new home, due to the sparse rainfall and hot days in History the valleys. First known to have been brought to Chile Wine historians surmise this wandering grape originated in the mid 1800s, Carménère was planted as a field in Spain. They think it was brought to Italy by the Romans blend because it was vinified with Merlot and frequently (those Romans drank a lot of wine) where it was blended described as “Merlot Chileano.” This cross between the with the Sangiovese grape from Tuscany. During their Cabernet Franc grape and the Gros Cabernet grape is conquest of France the grape was planted in the Medoc related to Merlot, and for hundreds of years Chileans area of Bordeaux. Whew! believed it was a type of Merlot. Now firmly ensconced in the Left Bank of Bordeaux, In the 1990s French ampelographer (grape expert) it became a blending grape for this famous region Claude Valat noticed a difference in Carménère from 15 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Merlot. Jean Michel Boursiquot, using DNA analysis, final product. The label will usually indicate the wine is confirmed it was not Merlot but Carménère in 1998. from the Rapel Valley or the Colchagua Valley. Hooray! It now had a clear identity per the Chilean government! Carménère´ now thrives in the mountains Pairing and valleys of Chile. Carménère is a superb food pairing wine. Featuring China’s booming wine industry has planted thousands of lively acidity and relatively low tannins, it’s very flexible acres of Carménère grapes for use in producing red blends and is delicious with a wide variety of dishes. Its light to that are extremely popular in the world’s most populous medium weight and frequent lusciousness complement country. This almost extinct varietal has an exciting future an assortment of cuisines. Let’s look at a few tempting in the world of wine. pairings. Grilled meat The Grape with a chimichurri Carménère ripens sauce from South a month to six weeks America is a classic later than Merlot. dish enhanced by If the grapes aren’t Carménère. Potato fully ripe, vegetal dishes with paprika notes are noticeable. and cheese are As the grapes fully wonderful with this ripen, flavors of spicy red wine. Italian dark berries, cocoa, cuisine like sweet chocolate and bell and spicy sausages, pepper illustrate the , pizza and the complexity of this classic Bistecca alla charmer from Chile. Fiorentina all benefit Part of the from this Chilean red reason Carménère wine. French food is frequently such as a Ratatouille, associated with a peppery flavor profile is the presence of Steak au Poivre, duck with and lentils, and even compounds called pyrazines. These pyrazines give wines cassoulet are complemented by Carménère. Staying in made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Europe, the Spanish dish of bean and sausage stew with Carménère their peppery characteristics. Carménère is a mint, paprika, tomatoes is better withCarménère . Tapas lot like its cousin Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is a bit of all types taste better with a bit of Chilean Carménère! more peppery and less earthy than its cousin Carménère. Heading home for some “local” foods, try braised short ribs, rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic, Chile con The Wine Carne, and grilled ribs with your favorite . A delectable Carménère´ wine may feature aromas Most Carménère are available for between $10- of eucalyptus, peppercorns, cocoa powder and even $20, making it a great value priced wine for everyday tobacco. The flavors evolve into dark fruits such as enjoyment. It’s not for everyone, but if you enjoy a red blueberry and blackberry, chocolate, smoke and paprika. wine with a little different flavor profile from the usual This wine is made in a variety of styles from lighter bodied suspects of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, to a medium-bodied wine. Virtually no «monster» tannins Carménère should be on your radar! are around to pucker up your taste buds! In the USA a single-varietal wine must be at a minimum Michael Schafer Esq., The Wine Counselor®, is the of 75% of the varietal on the label. Yes, that Cabernet charismatic wine educator, speaker, , C.S.W., Sauvignon may have up to 25% of other grapes in your writer and consultant who entertains while educating. bottle! Chilean single-varietal wines are allowed only His humorous and fun approach to wine is reflected in his up to 15% other grape varieties in with the label grape. trademark phrase, “I taste bad wine so you don’t have With Carménère, blending a bit of Syrah and or Cabernet to”® Sauvingon may add depth and complexity, enhancing the 16 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL Those Mystical Moments Curiously, the scourge that Giamatti’s character put upon Merlot has created curiosities for some to decide that by Dr. Richard Vine, PhD for themselves. Petrus fans laying out several thousand dollars per bottle must think it’s pretty good! I believe my first “aha” wine moment was during a nice restaurant dinner with friends back during – let’s just Taste Something New simply say more than just a few years ago. It was selected Perhaps our best new wine adventures lurk in what by our host from a moderately priced list of several dozen academic marketers call the “inept set,” or those that alternatives, all without much descriptive heraldry to our subconscious doesn’t allow us to consider. It takes prime my taste buds for much more than just a pleasant the encouragement of a highly respected retailer or wine. But the first sip embraced my nose, palate and sommelier for most of us to spend perfectly good money tactile senses in a harmony that made this my first notion on a wine , varietal, vintage and/or brand that of sumptuous wine charisma. The food and seasonings is shrouded by negative mindset. During a recent trip to combined with the time, place and company present to the magnificent Okanagan vineyards of British Columbia elevate this into nothing short of enchantment. (if you have never been there, don’t miss it) our host ordered a bottle of locally grown Pinot Blanc to pair with Surely every wine devotee has experienced such magic what my wife and I silently thought would be no match for moments. Fortunately, for all of us there have since been a highly appealing starry in a rich buttery-lemon many more similar magical flavor adventures. Young sauce. We fully expected this white wine would be good wine lovers yet to find this fascination have some very but just too delicate for the dominating citrus zest. To pleasing fulfillment ahead of them. our surprise, this Pinot Blanc expressed some tasty tart apple and nutty character that more than held its own Enjoyment Put into Words and married perfectly with that delicious dish. It was It’s not easy for us to describe such taste memories. The yet another “aha” epicurean moment giving us cause to idea of umami, or “savory taste,” comes to mind. Science wonder whether Pinot Blanc winegrowing had advanced literature indicates that umami is a response to glutamic or our taste acceptors had evolved, or both. In any case, acid which is our most prominent neurotransmitter. this experience introduced us to Pinot Blanc in a whole Somehow our most notable affinities of wine and new “evoked set.” food seem dimmed by explanations given over to just biochemistry. All of us have heard the rhetoric of a Both wine and human physiology are dynamic, always “symphony” of wine components becoming a synergy changing, with new pleasures awaiting those of us who of enticing flavors. Such charming analogies include would open our minds to pursue them. centuries of classic bards taking wine into eloquent words of romantic notions. Whether via music, the written The major wine media floods us with wine possibilities word or cyber-enlightenment sprung upon us via modern and all successful wine critics have, of course, their own electronic marvels, wine rapture remains personal – nice sets of individual acceptance and goodness that we may to talk about but a reality only when known first-hand. deem skeptical. It is great fun to hurdle such barriers into All great wines have a good chance of delivering rich adventures that could, and probably will, discover some satisfaction but not all of them have to score in the high to reconsider some amazing new magical “aha” moments. 90’s to open that elusive nirvana of pleasure that is so unique to each one of us. On the other hand, I don’t care what they say about Kalimotxos. I’m not trying that again. Perhaps this mystical tryst with wine has yet to be discovered by some enophiles. Fear not, it will happen to Dr. Vine has authored four wine books and is anyone who truly loves wine. Think how much actor Paul Purdue University’s Professor of Enology Emeritus. Giamatti in the 2004 movie,Sideways , turned people on He retired after 21 years as the Wine Consultant to the notion of trying Pinot Noir – now perhaps some of for American Airlines them finding one or another having brought new “aha” moments up out of obscurity.

17 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL or crumbly from the corkscrew, the wine may have been Ask Tasters Guild stored improperly and may be a sign of poorer quality. If By Joe Borrello the cork is soft and moist, but not mushy, it’s an indica- tion of proper storage. A moldy cork top is not necessar- Q. Please address the subject of “wine futures.” ily a bad sign. Just wipe off the lip and taste the wine for the true test. By the way, the vast majority of corks come A. Like many other consumable products affected by the from the trunk bark of cork oak trees grown in Portugal. A laws of supply and demand, to achieve the lowest possible much smaller percentage come from the coast of South- price of fine wines, purchase may be considered even ern France, Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco and from the Italian before release to the general public. This is called “buy- islands of Sardinia, Sicily and Corsica. ing in wine futures” and can be a very risky business for the uninformed. Each year at the conclusion of harvest, Q: If a bottle of wine has sediment in the bottom, does it many top premium wineries and estates will offer a lim- mean the wine has gone bad? ited amount of their new vintage wine at an established price payable in advance, but delivered one to three years A: The sediment is a completely natural part of the aging in the future. Since the commitment to purchase these process for some wines. All that is necessary is to decant wines is made well in advance of their maturity, you must the wine into another container, separating it from the either have an extremely well-educated palate or a lot sediment before drinking it. Place the bottle upright for a of trust in someone else’s opinion and knowledge of the couple of hours so the sediment settles before pouring. wine. Depending on the wine’s development and inter- Be sure to pour slowly. And, don’t disturb the sediment. It national dollar evaluation at the time of release, you may will not harm you, but it does have a slightly bitter taste. or may not have made a good purchase. Wine futures are You may consider opening red wines as soon as possible usually available through specialty wine shops. after ordering in a restaurant. This allows the wine to breathe. Exposing the wine to air for a short period en- Q. I just bought two cases of a Bordeaux chateau. I want hances the flavor and bouquet of many red wines. these to sit for a while, but when I got home, I noticed the top foil section of the bottle spins around and seems Q: Does wine make a good marinade? loose. Should I be concerned? A: Meat may be tenderized and its flavor enhanced by A. Not to worry, the foil section is for aesthetic purposes marinating in red wine for an hour or two. You'll also find only and the sealing machine on the bottle line just mal- adding white wine to a seafood marinade will break down functioned. However, if the corks are loose or popping up the odorous fish oils, just as lemon juice and vinegar do. - that’s a problem! As far as laying them down for awhile, Marinating should be done in glass, porcelain or materials I would suggest drinking a bottle periodically to see how other than aluminum, which has a tendency to give an off- much tannin is present and if the wine will improve much flavor to a wine marinade. Some semi-sweet wines and with aging. It all depends on the wine itself and your indi- are particularly pleasing as a marinade for vidual taste. fresh fruit served in a wine glass, plus they add an elegant touch to your table setting. Q: Why do wine bottles have corks? Q. What does wine add to a sauce and how do I use it? A: The cork is an organic closure that permits the in- terchange of air with wine at a rate that allows wine to A. Wine is a seasoning like herbs or spices, only in liquid mature. Wine bottles with corks should be stored either form. It accents and improves natural food flavors. It also upside down or on their sides, so the cork remains moist adds a certain flair to ordinary cooking; and yet, it is easy and does not dry out and shrink. If this happens, the clo- to use. Instead of adding water, which is tasteless, to your sure is no longer tight and excessive aeration takes place. recipe, substitute some wine. You'll discover a much more Too much exposure to air may cause wine to darken and fragrant and better-tasting dish. Add the wine near the lose some of its bouquet. The taste will begin to gradually end of your cooking for more intense flavoring. change. The extreme end product of this natural process is vinegar. A simple squeeze of the cork will give a small clue as to what to expect in the wine. If it is hard and dry,

18 SPRING/SUMMER 2018 TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL