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Chilean whites: ‘The important thing on the up is sticking to your guns and following what you Breaking free from Chile’s long association with red , the country’s winemakers are going to extremes to find a greater believe in’ Rafael Tirado, Laberinto diversity of , in a quest for enhanced complexity and quality in their white wines, as Peter Richards MW reports emerging, which is much more diverse and interesting. This new Chile will produce more white wines.’ A path less trodden Chile’s best white wines are all about extremes. The country’s top white producers have left the comfort zone of the Central Valley and climbed high into the foothills, struck out for the coast, or headed south in search of cooler, more marginal conditions and diverse soils. And it’s not just about points of the compass, either – it’s also about mindset. ‘Today, technology has supplanted imagination in many winemakers,’ asserts Pablo Morandé, a pioneer of Chilean whites who originally developed Casablanca and now produces mould-breaking wines at Bodegas Re. ‘But to make great whites, you need to be absolutely free with your .’ The southern extremities of Chilean country are producing some particularly exciting whites, often majoring on brisk acidity and restrained, ageworthy characteristics. SoldeSol is an excellent line of wines made at Viña Aquitania in the Traiguén area of Malleco, by thoughtful winemaker Felipe de Solminihac. ‘People know Chile as a warm country, a producer,’ muses de Solminihac. ‘But SoldeSol wines are different, even from other Imagine the scene. Steeply rolling hillsides, Above: bush vines evocative, calming style is like drinking in this climate regions, the world developed a thirst Chilean wine regions. The [cooler] climate dark forests in the background, the foreground grow readily in the silent, scented landscape. It’s Chilean white, for Chilean reds, especially and ensures low yields and concentrated, a green sea of bush vines sprouting vigorously terracotta soils of De all right – but not as we know it. . One in every three structured wines, the volcanic soils give a from rich terracotta soil. On a rickety table in Martino’s Itata Valley The landscape of Chilean wine is dominated Chilean vines is now Cabernet Sauvignon. really interesting mineral edge to the wines, the middle of the there is a glass of property, in the far by red. Just 35,841ha (hectares) of Chile’s total Whites have been playing catch-up ever since. and musts are rich in acidity but well mysterious . It smells of springtime south of Chile’s vineyard is white, which represents 26% of the It’s easy to overlook Chile’s whites in favour balanced. Traiguén whites are built for the and each taste is a modest but insistent wine country overall total 137,592ha. Although the red/ of its reds. But it’s also a mistake. What the long term, more similar to Burgundy or invitation to enjoy more. white balance used to be more even in the figures don’t show is what attentive drinkers than Leyda or Casablanca.’ Neither wine nor scene is typical Chile. This past, the quality of the whites was often basic: have already noticed – that Chile’s new-wave Producing new-wave Chilean whites is a is Itata, the deep south of Chilean wine country. oxidative, raulí wood-aged Central Valley whites represent a diverse, quality-led and slow process, which often starts with a hunch The old vineyard belongs to De Martino and Sauvignonasse was never going to set the intriguing offering, with the accent and a pioneering spirit and then demands the wine – well, no one knows what the wine world on fire. increasingly on attributes such as terroir endless fine-tuning, commercial determination really is. It’s a blend of and a variety Ironically, just as the balance shifted in expression, elegance and ageing potential. – and patience. The likes of Casa Silva, De known locally as Corinto (possibly Pedro favour of whites in the 1980s, with the advent As Enzo Pandolfi of Itata-based estate Martino and Undurraga have developed Ximenez or ). Made with a discreet of temperature-controlled, hygienic Pandolfi Price comments: ‘Traditional Chile experimental white wine projects far to the hand, it’s deliciously unassuming – the gently winemaking and the development of cooler was a red wine producer. Now the New Chile is south of Malleco and it will be intriguing to ➢

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see how these develop. In the meantime, the likes of Alto las Gredas and William Fèvre also make fine in Malleco. Rapid evolution If Malleco’s natural style harks back to the classics, Itata is altogether less orthodox. The hills around the port city of Concepción are home to some of Chile’s most historic , originally developed in the mid- 16th century, following the European influx. There is a wealth of dry-farmed old vines here, particularly Muscat. De Martino’s Viejas Tinajas Muscat, Chile’s first commercial venture into natural in the grapecollective.com Photograph: Above: Enzo Pandolfi of Pandolfi Price believes Itata has a ‘clear point of modern era, was groundbreaking. difference’, and sees ‘huge potential’ in the region for top-quality white wines Made using skin contact in large earthenware tinaja jars and minimal sulphur, this wine, along with its red counterpart made Eastern promise ‘If Malleco’s from Cinsault, helped kick-start Itata’s revival. While much of Chile’s white wine activity is ‘These are wines that have an historic focused in the coastal west of the country, the natural style viticultural value – wines for grown-ups who cool elevations of the Andean east are showing want to try something different,’ explains promise too. Laberinto is a label made by harks back to Sebastián De Martino. The likes of Rogue Vine, Rafael Tirado high in the wilds of eastern Zaranda, Koyle and Clos des Fous have also Maule, on the shores of the Colbún reservoir. the classics, been active in this area, while Miguel Torres His house speciality is a peculiarly taut, tense makes a fine Muscat in Maule. that ages notably well, but he Itata is Also in Itata but taking a different tack is also makes a funky, tinaja-aged . ‘I just Pandolfi Price. The focus here is Chardonnay, love making and drinking good Sauvignon altogether made in a beautifully savoury, intense, nutty Blanc, so that was my motivation,’ comments style with the winemaking input of François Tirado. ‘The important thing is sticking to less orthodox’ Massoc. ‘There is huge potential for excellent your guns and following what you believe in.’ whites in Chile,’ asserts Enzo Pandolfi. ‘The One of Chile’s finest white winemakers lives amazing thing about Chile is how it’s evolving in the eastern hills of Cachapoal. François and learning extremely fast. We have a clear Massoc – Chilean by birth, French by point of difference being in Itata.’ extraction and inclination – is the craftsman behind labels including Aristos, Calyptra, Below: the Labertino vineyard in eastern Maule, on Clos des Fous and Pandolfi Price, and he is a the shores of the Colbún reservoir. The cool climate magician when it comes to oaked whites, produces taut, ageworthy Sauvignon Blanc especially Chardonnay. ➢

DECANTER • April 2016 | 65 chile

Chile’s top 10 white varieties by hectarage (with most-planted regions)

Total Chilean wine vineyard 137,592ha White wine 35,841ha (26%) Sauvignon Blanc 15,142ha (Curicó, Maule, Casablanca, San Antonio, Colchagua) Chardonnay 11,634ha (Casablanca, Maule, Colchagua, Curicó, Maipo) Moscatel de Alejandría 3,574ha (Itata, Bío Bío, Limarí, Elqui) Semillon 968ha (Maule, Curicó) 878ha (Colchagua, Cachapoal, Limarí, Casablanca) 801ha (Curicó, Maule) Torontel 636ha (Maule) Pedro Ximenez 436ha (Limarí, Elqui) Riesling 420ha (Bío Bío, San Antonio, Casablanca) ‘White wines are the most challenging to Above: the winery at Gewurztraminer 366ha (Casablanca, produce: you have less margin for error so it’s Bodegas Re in San Antonio, Bío Bío)

all about precision,’ Massoc reflects. When Casablanca, where Source: SAG Catastro Vitícola Nacional 2014, Origo, Chilean wine regions pushed on varieties, he notes the potential of clay-coated cement Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling in southern tanks in the form of it comes to the potential of Chilean whites,’ Chile, before adding, ‘Chardonnay is close to large amphorae and laughs Hurtado. ‘Where else in the world can , so I believe that the finest Chilean American barriques you find the kind of bright, dry, cool whites will come from this grape.’ are central to the conditions of coastal Chile? This gives long Another celebrated Chilean winemaker production of Pablo maturations and concentrated, expressive who shares this view is Francisco Baettig of Morandé’s Chardonnoir whites. I’m convinced the most significant Errazuriz. ‘The potential for Chardonnay is and Velado wines future developments in Chilean wine will enormous since we have begun to pay more come from white wines.’ attention to soil and emphasising elegance, Below: Errazuriz Wild balance and tension in our winemaking,’ he Ferment Chardonnay Redefining the future says. Baettig hired terroir expert Pedro Parra from Casablanca, the Also in Casablanca but notably different in and French geologist Françoise Vannier-Petit ‘nerve centre’ of Chile’s stylistic terms is Bodegas Re, the brainchild of to study how the vines’ interaction with the white wine production Pablo Morandé, who pioneered this region in mother rock in Costa could help the early 1980s and now produces delicious, imbue his wines with ‘verticality, “dryness”, category-defying wines. With the likes of Re’s saltiness, chalkiness – more length than width, Velado and Chardonnoir, this is one of the so to speak’. He adds: ‘I find this super- exciting. country’s most inspired white wine producers This is about terroir – if you want to produce – and it’s interesting to note that both of these an outstanding white, you have to understand wines, though white, use Pinot Noir. your soil. I can see whites becoming real, ‘It’s not easy to make good Pinot Noir, even serious competition to the reds in Chile.’ in Casablanca,’ explains Morandé. ‘So I turned Just to the south, Casablanca is the nerve my attention to other styles: whites, rosés and centre of modern Chilean white wine sparkling wines. Personally, I’m very optimistic production. There are many producers making about premium whites from Casablanca, but fine whites here, including Casas del Bosque, winemakers need to have an open mind and García Schwaderer, Veramonte, Viu Manent believe in the potential of the grapes. For the and Quintay. Cono Sur also makes some of its moment I will continue being Quixote fighting finest whites here, in its El Centinela vineyard against the windmills.’ on the region’s cooler western fringes. Since it emerged in the early noughties, San Winemaker Adolfo Hurtado has long been Antonio has made characterful, intense whites recognised as a winemaker who takes whites its speciality, with notable producers including seriously at all ends of the price spectrum, Amayna, Matetic and Viña Leyda. One of from Sauvignon Blanc to Riesling, Viognier Chile’s very best white wine producers is Casa and Gewurztraminer. Marín, rightly celebrated for its

Photograph: tedwardwines.com Photograph: ‘I’m a fervent enthusiast and optimist when uncompromising white wine portfolio ➢

66 | April 2016 • DECANTER chile om eu .c tbl le to . pis including punchy Sauvignon Blanc, lush Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the www Sauvignon Gris, elegant Riesling and textured limestone soils of Talinay. Gewurztraminer. Chile’s whites have been a key part of its Owner Mariluz Marín says: ‘It has been recent wine development. As Sebastián De difficult, from a commercial point, to position Martino says: ‘It’s all part of the process of our icon white wines to compete in a world maturing as a winemaking country. We’re just that is so used to praising icon reds. But I’ve starting to push the boundaries and understand made white wines part of my life in Lo Abarca how to make great whites in different .’ – it’s the terroir, and nature, doing its work.’ Just as there are many varieties, terroirs It’s a similar argument in the north of Chile, and styles for Chile to exploit, so the evolution where the likes of Tabalí, Tamaya, Maycas of its white wine landscape will be fascinating Mariluz Marín in the del Limarí and Tara are crafting intense, to witness – redefining, in the process, Chilean cool-climate Casa Marín savoury whites from specific, often limestone- wine as we know it. D vineyards at Lo Abarco, rich terroirs close to the coast. Tabalí’s Felipe San Antonio Valley Müller points to potential for Viognier and Peter Richards MW is the Decanter World Wine Riesling, as well as excellent results for Awards Regional Chair for Chile

Richards’ picks: best Chilean whites

Bodegas Re, resonant Sauvignon from £35.50 (2012) Berry Bros & Rudd Errazuriz, Wild Ferment juicy flavours of lychees and Maycas del Velado, southern Chile. Piercing citrus This blend of Chardonnay and Chardonnay, Casablanca rose on the palate, along with Limarí, Reserva Casablanca 2012 acidity with a discreet, creamy Pinot Noir is like a delicious 2014 91 with pear and peach. Another Especial Sept. 2009 96/100 succulence and mineral Chilean take on Chablis. £12.99-£14.35 Cambridge Wine beautiful Casa Marin white. Chardonnay, £52.95 AG Wines, complexity. Taut, cultured and Restrained aromatically, but Merchant, Majestic, Stone Vine & Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% Limarí 2014 89 Berry Bros & Rudd, beguiling, this is great value. follows through with a cascade Sun, Whole Foods Camden £12.95 The Wine Christopher Keiller Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13.5% of leesy, tangy, nutty flavours. A stylish and savoury, Cono Sur, Society The second Drink 2017-2030 Alc 12.5% Puligny-esque Chardonnay 20 Uncomplicated version of this epic Calyptra, Gran showing toasted nuts and Sauvignon style that majors white Pinot Noir is Reserva Casa Marin, Cipreses lemon pith. Fruit is a touch Blanc, on freshness, even better than Sauvignon Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, sweet on the finish, but it’s Casablanca with a succulent the first (2009). Its delightfully Blanc, Cachapoal Lo Abarca, San Antonio 2014 very moreish and good value. 2014 90 and moreish character. yeasty, savoury, intense style 2012 93 92 Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% £12.99-£15 Asda, Displays aromas of ripe is both unique and inspiring. N/A UK www. N/A UK www.casamarin.cl The Drink Shop, peach, melon and dried nut, Drink 2016-2035 Alc 12.5% calyptra.cl Consistently one of Chile’s Laberinto, Wine Rack leading into a juicy palate Bold oak-aged outstanding Sauvignons, this Cenizas de This reliably profile with savoury Aristos, Duquesa Sauvignon punchy white has abundant, Laberinto, expressive, inflections. Good value. d’A Chardonnay, reminiscent of top vibrant flavours of pink Sauvignon complex Sauvignon is typical Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.5% Cachapoal 2010 . Richly grapefruit, nettles and pea Blanc, Maule of Cono Sur’s excellent value 95 layered flavours of tangerine, shoots. A serious, expressive 2015 91 white range. The new De Martino, £51 (2009) clotted cream and orange and engaging wine. N/A UK www. is zippy, pure, long and Viejas Tinajas Justerini & Brooks blossom underscored by vivid Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5% laberintowines.cl uplifting. All chargrilled Muscat, Itata Sumptuously acidity. Accomplished and An invigorating, peppers and ripe lemons. 2014 88 GRAND VIN DE POMEROL nutty, savoury ambitious. Drink 2016-2022 Casa Marin, mineral-laden Benchmark stuff. Drink £15.49 Les Caves de Chardonnay Alc 13.5% Miramar Vineyard style of 2016-2017 Alc 13% Pyrène grown at altitude Riesling, Lo Sauvignon Blanc that flirts Edgy, ‘natural’ and made by Errazuriz, Las Pizarras Abarca, San with austerity and will benefit Errazuriz, The Blend style. Aromas of magician François Massoc. Chardonnay, Aconcagua Antonio 2015 91 from some time in the bottle. Collection White, stewed pears, Big-boned and baroque but Costa, Aconcagua 2014 93 N/A UK www. Hints of smoke, gooseberry Aconcagua 2012 89 gingerbread and GÉNÉRATION POMEROL with an elegant poise. The £45 Hatch Mansfield casamarin.cl and roasted peppers. £18.99-£22.50 The Halifax wild fennel. Henry VIII of Chilean Released in 2016, this is Very young and Drink 2017-2024 Alc 12.5% Wine Co, Waitrose Cellar Flavour-wise, it’s profoundly Chardonnay. Compelling. beautifully subtle yet complex. slightly inscrutable This pithy, nutty, food- dry with a kick of tannic Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5% Brooding notes of red apple but seamless in its Casa Marin, Casona friendly blend of , texture. Great with gruyère, and woodsmoke on a savoury, laser-like focus and Vineyard, Gewurztraminer, and Viognier is an belly pork or truffle and Aquitania, SoldeSol profound, elegant palate. elegant texture. Give it time Lo Abarca, San Antonio 2014 assured and distinctive break mushroom pâté. Drink Sauvignon Blanc, Malleco Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13% and this wine’s mineral- 90 from the Chilean norm. Notes 2016-2017 Alc 13% Traiguen 2014 94 inflected, apple-and-lees N/A UK www.casamarin.cl of candle wax, aniseed and £19.95 Winety Bodegas Re, Chardonnoir, style should unfurl. Lush and exotic without being lees emerge with time in the For full details of UK stockists, Beautifully understated yet Casablanca 2014 92 Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% overpowering. Wonderfully glass. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13% turn to p111 www.chateaulapointe.com

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