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mia a Cele bBeddaration of presented by la rosaworks In conjunction with The Westchester Italian Cultural Center and The Belmont Business Improvement District representing Little in the Bronx mia a CBeddaelebration of Sicily

“...aridly undulating to the horizon enjoy Exhibits and Programming at The Westchester Italian Cultural Center in hillock after hillock, taste Sicilian Food and WIne in The “Real” Little Italy in the Bronx comfortless and irrational, read about the Life, the Land with no lines that the mind could grasp, and the People of Sicily conceived apparently in a delerious moment of creation; this publication is presented by a sea suddenly petrified la rosaworks in conjunction with when a change of wind the Westchester Italian Cultural Center and The Belmont Business Improvement District had flung the waves into a frenzy.” representing Little Italy in the Bronx

From The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di A celebration of sicily 1 Westchester Italian Cultural CenterYoung

The Westchester Italian Cultural Center preserves, promotes and celebrates the rich heritage of classic Italian culture Professionals by encouraging an appreciation of the , arts and letters, history, cuisine and commerce through Group educational programs, exhibits and events. Enjoy exclusive invitations to discover Italian food and wine, cultural events, exhibits, films, lectures board of trustees and performing arts with Westchester's future leaders. Honorable Francis A. Nicolai chairman The Westchester Italian Cultural Center (WICC) and our Amici members celebrate all things Italian! With several events throughout the year that are Domenick Ciaccia vice chairman exclusive to our members and their friends, the Center provides a unique treasurer meeting place, coupled with a distinctive Italian experience – wine and food, James . Veneruso, Esq. film, performance– all in a friendly atmosphere. corporate secretary legal counsel Join today as an Amici member of the Westchester Italian Cultural Center; Armentano annual membership is just $35 and is fully tax deductible. Rose Cali Cav. John F. Calvelli Members enjoy discounts on all WICC courses and programs, advance notice of all events, invitations to exhibit previews and special receptions, access to the Michael A. Caruso, DDS Catherine Pope Memorial Library, and mailings of all WICC publications. Domenico Delli Carpini Honorable Janet DiFiore For more information, contact the Westchester Jonathan Giannettino Italian Cultural Center at (914) 771-8700. Cav. Andrew J. Spano To learn more about the Westchester Italian Cultural Center, please visit our website at www.wiccny.org Maria Masciotti executive director

2 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 3 Fall 2010 Program Highlights Westchester Italian Sicilia Bedda! Discover some of Sicily’s unique traditions through costumes, fine art, photography, ceramics, Business Circle literature, and a delightful display of life size marionettes. This multimedia experience includes a video on Sicily and its rich history, Joe Genova’s paintings and a unique collection of photographs from Joe Zarba, Karen J. La Rosa, Noel DeGaetano, Mimmo Pintacuda, Ferdinando Scianna, and The Westchester Italian Business Circle is a group of local industry Giuseppe Tornatore. leaders whoWestchester are organized in their support Italian of the Westchester Italian Sicily, Its People, Places and Traditions Cultural Center and our programs. This lecture series, presented in English by Prof Gaetano Cipolla from St. John’s University will explore Sicily’s dynamic history as well as its vivacious people, language and literature. Joseph Apuzzo,Business Jr. Brian A . KCircleeating Joseph Armentano Richard Langiulli, DDS Culinary Events Our culinary and wine programs for adults 21 and over are among the most popular programs Cav. John F. Calvelli Neil . Lubarsky we offer. Feast on Italian delicacies, explore wines from the regions and learn about traditional Michael Caridi O. Anthony Maddalena preparations. Presentations and tastings include From Fishing Boats to the Kitchen: Sicily’s Glorious Seafood Traditions and Culinary Crossroads: Classic Recipes and Traditions. Hands-on workshops Michael A. Caruso, DDS Declan Maguire include Sicilian Recipes Every Italian Should Know and Contemporary Italian Cuisine. Domenick Ciaccia D. Marsillo Our popular Culinary Programs for Children include Pizza alla Nutella, Biscotti della Nonna, James R. D’Arcangelo Michael P. Mazzilli and Pasta A to Zeta. Children, ages 5 and up, have fun while learning to prepare traditional Thomas N. De Caro James A. Oliverio Italian foods. Anthony Frantellizzi Enzo Pizzimenti Discover Italy! Vincent De Giaimo Joseph A. Ruhl, Esq. This multi-media, virtual travel program uncovers some little known treasures that are not to be missed. Each session includes a representative tasting. This season we feature Emilia Romagna Patrick De Iorio, Esq. Santomero & Parma, Montepulciano, and Ciociaria. Robert Etre Frank Scanga Musica! Richard Flamio Frank Sinatra Jr. Distinguished performers from around the world present concerts in our intimate lecture hall Vincent P. Gianatasio James J. Veneruso, Esq. followed by a reception where you can meet the artists. On the program this fall are A Tribute to Adriana Greco Anthony L. Verrelli, Esq. Astor Piazzolla, Musica di Sicilia, Pier Paolo Iacopini, and Concerto di Natale. (in formation) And so much more! From Italian language programs for adults and children starting at age 2 to investigating your ancestry; from celebrating the life of Don Bosco to classic books and cinema with our Professor-in- Residence, Antonio Rutigliano of NYU; and from Sicilian marionettes to movie nights for teens, the Westchester Italian Cultural Center offers the most robust program of Italian culture to be found in the tri-state area. For information about the Business Circle To learn more about our programs and events, visit us on the web at wiccny.org please call 914-771-8700.

4 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 5 The Intense Flavors and Fragrances of Sicily by Giovanna Bellia La Marca

ith increasingly greater reducing condiments to the foods’ own numbers of people visiting juices, and adding a savory mixture of fresh WSicily to enjoy the history of aromatic herbs chopped and mixed with the island, the temples, the good olive oil, salt, and sesame seeds. landscape with all its hill towns, the natural The appeal that Sicilian cooking has for beauty of the mountains, the sandy beaches, us today is that it is a simple, flavorful, and the beautiful cities, visitors rave about unpretentious cuisine dependent on the delicious food of this region of Italy. At a uncompromisingly fresh ingredients in time of great interest in healthful, nutritious, season and at the peak of flavor. The and appealingly interesting foods, the techniques of everyday cooking are simple cooking of Sicily provides a wealth of tasty and are aimed at preserving the flavor, and wholesome recipes. Sicily is the largest texture, and the wholesomeness of the fresh island in the , and its ingredients. cook’s ingenuity is cuisine is among the oldest in Europe, a fact his or her greatest asset. Many recipes and that is amply documented in the history of variations can be made from the humblest the island. vegetables, elevating them to holiday fare. Four hundred years before the birth of There are wonderful recipes that are Christ, Plato was engaged by the Tyrant made to celebrate the various holidays of of Syracuse, Sicily, as the teacher for his the year. Easter Sunday/Monday offers a son Dionisius the Younger. Plato tutored double celebration. The centerpiece of the young man for three months before the Easter Sunday menu is the traditional returning to Greece. Plato deplored the ‘mpanata ri agnieddu, a delectable lamb time and attention that was devoted to the pie that will reward the adventurous cook preparation and consumption of food in who is willing to try it. This lamb pie is Sicily, and he was distressed by the Sicilian’s made with a bread crust that encloses well- love for food. He was convinced that in seasoned lamb stewing meat, bones and all. the midst of such decadence and self- The meat juices soak into the bottom crust indulgence, the youth would surely come as the pie slowly cools, making it a very to no good. Plato must not have disliked flavorful and tasty morsel. The Easter feast desserts, because he forgave the continues on Monday, when people pack a for their sweet tooth, conceding that sweets delicious lunch and head for the country or were the great contribution of the Sicilian more commonly, to their vacation home in gastronomy to the ancient world. the countryside or at the nearest beach to Sicilians knew about “nouvelle cuisine” celebrate Pasquetta. 2,300 years ago when Archestrato, the Sicily, which in ancient Roman times was James Beard of his time, cautioned against called the “granary of the Italic peninsula,” making sauces too rich. He recommended still produces some of the best durum

6 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 7 include marzipan fruits; ricotta-filled ; spectacular cakes decorated with “L’” candied fruits; cookies filled with dried fruits, nuts, and honey; and perhaps the best The Origins of the Sicilian Marionette known dessert, granita, a smooth refreshing fruit ice that can be made at home quite easily and with fantastic results. by Tony De Nonno My grandmothers, Concettina and Milina, always said that Sicilians would eat well if they had eggs, flour, legumes, and fresh vegetables. Historically, these simple ingredients were the mainstays of Sicilian cooking. Ingredients need not be expensive, and cooking techniques needn’t be complicated in order to eat well. To raise this simple cooking to cuisine, I would add good olive oil to the list, the best cold- pressed extra-virgin olive oil you can afford to buy. I grew up watching my mother, father, and grandmothers making feasts out of the most humble and inexpensive ingredients. Sicilian dishes have great versatility, and are easy to make. Our sauces utilize flavorful and aromatic cooking juices and we don’t use stocks for our soups because we depend on the fresh ingredients, a sprinkle of salt, and a drizzle of excellent extra virgin olive oil to make all the difference. he literature of the Ancient , manipulate and engage the massive Sicilian wheat in Italy. Bread and pasta continue Excerpted from Sicilian Feasts with permission who inhabited Sicily for several knights, in fierce battles. The marionettes to be important to the daily diet, and are of the author. Giovanna Bellia La Marca, Thundred years, is filled with from , nearly twice the size as those of excellent quality. Rice, although not as a native of Ragusa and former teacher at references to puppetry. In , clay and from , stand almost five feet tall and important a food as it is in the northern Bronx Science High School, is the author of ivory dolls with articulated arms and legs weigh in excess of a hundred pounds. provinces, nevertheless appears in some Sicilian Feasts and Language and Travel were found in children’s tombs. Some of Puppets and marionettes were one of very special dishes. The most memorable Guide to Sicily. She teaches Sicilian cooking at these dolls had an iron rod that was used the most popular forms of entertainment for those who have traveled to Sicily the Institute of Culinary Education and gives to manipulate the doll from above, exactly throughout Medieval Europe for all classes is , a very popular finger food. monthly tours of Arthur Avenue. Giovanna was as is done with the Sicilian Marionettes of people. The earliest performances Arancini are rice balls stuffed with cheese or given a “Ragusani nel Mondo” award by her today. Thanks to the advancement and and storylines involved local history and meat, covered with bread crumbs, and deep native city of Ragusa, Sicily, for professional contributions of Roman puppetry, Italy is folklore. With each subsequent conqueror fried to a golden orange, hence the name achievements in the , only the considered by many today as the early home of Sicily, a new group of people would leave that means “little oranges.” second woman to be so honored. of the marionettes. their own stamp upon this emerging folk The Sicilian dessert table is a delight for A marionette is a rod puppet controlled tradition. the eye as well as for the palate. Beautiful from above using wires or strings. Since The modern l’Opera dei Pupi tradition, and delicious desserts are known and the middle of the 19th Century iron and that can still be seen in Sicily today, appreciated all over the world. They steel rods and wires were used in Sicily to originated in the early19th century, but the

8 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 9 roots of the stories date back to Medieval Charlemagne saga. The verses empowered times. Many of the characters portrayed in “Orlando Furioso” and the Paladins of this treasured Sicilian tradition come straight France. The values valor, courage and out of the history of Europe and Southern devotion in defending their love of country, Italy. It was the legendary reign of the great King, homeland and family and this Emperor Charlemagne along with his inspired the Sicilians. nephew Roland (Orlando), and the Paladins Transported by the Canta-storia’s of France that is at the heart of the “l’Opera dramatic story-telling abilities, these sagas dei Pupi” saga. were carried through the centuries, right Though Charlemagne’s rule is associated to the doorstep of the Sicilian Marionette with a revival of art, religion, and culture, Theater in the early 1900’s. They became it is his foreign conquests that helped an integral part of the tradition and served define both Western Europe, the Middle as an engaging and enlightening source of Ages and ultimately the Sicilian Marionette instruction, teaching the illiterate peasants theater tradition. For centuries the French, history, literature, language, music, and art. Germans, and especially the canta-storias Since Sicily had no compulsory education or singing storytellers of Sicily told the at that time, play attendance did much to epic story of this great European unifier shape the self-image of many Sicilian males tony de nonno and his valorous conquests. But it was and inspire them to improve the quality the publication of the epic poem “Song of of their lives. The sagas inculcated feelings Rome such as Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. festivals and even a Sicilian puppetry school. Roland”, which immortalized the Emperor of chivalry, patriotism, romance, courage, In New York, the Papa Manteo Sicilian These endeavors, in conjunction with Sicily’s throughout the annals of history. Designed honor, self-reliance, loyalty, and a deep Marionette Theater was first established on ever-growing tourist industry will hopefully especially for oral performance, this epic belief in the power of the church. Like Mulberry Street in Little Italy in1918. For build a strong foundation of master poem celebrated the legendary deeds of the today’s fictional super heroes, the deeds and more than a century, five generations of puppeteers— who will enchant, entertain hero Roland, Orlando in Italian. abilities of Orlando Furioso and the other the Manteo family, originally from Catania, and inspire our future generations with the For almost five hundred years, “The Song Sicilian Marionette rivals possess character performed episodes from “Un Avventura power, glory and stories of this timeless and of Roland” unfolded in daily episodes and traits and abilities that are much larger than d’Orlando Furioso” and “L’Amore di Isabella priceless Sicilian Marionette tradition. was presented by the canta-storia. Around life. These marionettes are an integral part of e Zervino” with life-sized marionettes. In 1600, Churches throughout the entire the Island’s cultural identity and history. 2010, Little Italy’s Italian American Museum Tony De Nonno is a TV Documentary Christian world began using marionettes to The Sicilian Marionette tradition presents acquired more than twenty-five of these Producer/Writer/Director, Historian and perform morality plays and the Marionette enduring faith, values, and justice in Manteo marionettes—including some Speaker in the Humanities. For info about Tony tradition began to flourish. its religious and Biblical performances, created in Catania more than one hundred De Nonno and his films please visit his website, Ludovico Arisoto’s epic poem “Orlando including tales from the Old Testament. The and fifty years ago. The Marionettes will be www.denonnoproductions.com. For information Furioso” published in 1516, enjoyed dialogue is usually improvised. The skill showcased in the museum, which is literally about Tony’s lectures, film presentation and enormous popularity in Europe. The of the performers is not only displayed in just a few storefronts away from the original Sicilian Marionette demonstrations, please visit rhythm and power of its verse and episodic the actions of the marionettes, but also in Manteo Marionette Theater. http://www.nyhumanities.org/speakers presentation of Emperor Charlemagne’s the clever improvisation of the dialogue. L’Opera dei Pupi has not died out battles touched a chord in people of A major component of the Opera dei Pupi completely. A handful of marionette makers, all classes. Arisoto’s mastery of infusing is the violence: swordfights, jousts and among the world’s finest, still work in the trials and tribulations of the knight battles with monsters or sorceresses. When Sicily, particularly in Palermo, Catania and Orlando, and especially his passionate and a hero slashes with his sword, limbs can . UNESCO has designated Sicilian unrequited love for the alluring Angelica, fall from the villain. Since much of Sicily’s Marionette Theatre as part of humanity’s greatly influenced and inspired the literature history is filled with violent conquests it has “oral and intangible heritage.” A concerted of the Renaissance. “Orlando Furioso” imprinted itself in this most traditional form effort is in motion to preserve this glorious inspired and invigorated the canta-storia of entertainment. The Opera dei Pupi also folk art art tradition. Part of the plan with a much richer, lyrical version of the covers themes from classical Greece and includes the formation of puppet theatre

10 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 11 La Musica di Sicilia

By Michela Musolino

he taste and smell of the wines hears in any culture. Endemic to the Sicilian was one’s family. Courtship was a way for and food we are enjoying this lullaby is the sound of ‘ah-oh’ or ‘lah-oh,’ the family to remain strong in the face of Tevening evoke strong images and sometimes even ‘oh-oh’ or ‘lah-voh.’ Is this upheaval; thus, the ritual was maintained even memories of the beautiful island that a reference to the dawn – (Aurora in to preserve the very fabric of civilization. A is Sicily. Chosen specifically for that reason, and Eos in Greek)? Is this a remnant of the good match meant that the family would each course and each accompanying wine time when Sicily was part of the Magna survive for another generation. are typical of the island and originate in Grecia? Was this the sound that mothers In the tradition of courtship song, one no other place. Tonight, some of you will came to use to soothe their babies to sleep sees a snapshot of a different time when

recall fondly time spent there, some will be until dawn? men and women couldn’t freely speak to Joe Zarba spurred to visit again or for the first time. Song would accompany the children as each other in public. Through song, they Such is the power of food and the power of they grew. There were songs for toddlers, could tell each other their hearts desires song about the horrors of pirate invasions, the senses. This evening, dedicated to Sicily, sung to them as they learned to walk. One and let each other know if they accepted it is lamented that only Mother Mary is not just about a physical experience. This such song told them that wherever they or rejected another’s advances. “E quannu could save the victims. A fable that bears a beloved island is more than just particular placed their tiny foot, a sprig of basil would s’affaccia la vurria vasari.” “When she shows resemblance to the Cinderella story revolves crops, breathtaking ruins, and pristine grow: “Unni posi lu to peduzzu nasci un pedi di herself at the window, I want to kiss her.” around a healing from Saint Anthony. naturescapes. As anyone who loves Sicily basilico.” Of course, the nursery rhymes that An offshoot of this was the canto di sdegno, “C’annuncia cumpariu Sant Antuninu/ci disse will tell you, Sicily reaches beyond the children chanted in sing-song would also or the song of scorn. Although not used for chi mi du ca ti fazzu guariri?” Compadre Saint physical to touch one’s heart and very soul. find their way into the songbook ofMusica courtship, they were a way for a scorned Anthony announced, “Tell me what you Sicily is best described, best experienced Popolare. Santa Luna is a filastrocca, nursery lover to express anger and sometimes hatred would give me if I cured you.” through her people and their history. rhyme, that is found in different versions for the one who wronged them. Love and religion weren’t the only topics One could spend endless hours pouring all over Sicily. Singers took that childrens’ “Mi cuntintavu a moreri e nun amar a tia.” “It sung. Any event in history, any conflict over their ethnology, ethnography and rhyme to the blessed moon and sang would have been better for me to die than to found its way to be expressed in song, anthropology to understand them or one variations of which many mention courtship love you!” especially the conflict between the overlords could experience their music. It has been and eventual marriage. A reference to San Sicilian music also demonstrates another and the poor. When the Palermitani arose noted that music is a faithful and eloquent Giovanni is sometimes included as he is aspect of history and humanity: once, up to overthrow the oppressing Borboni, revealer of the human heart. It has the the saint to whom young ladies would turn people openly sung about their God, their a song came about which used a donkey power to explain not only the ‘whys’ of when seeking a husband. saints, and their miracles. They sang about as a metaphor for the poor contadino, the history, but also share the most guarded Sicily is rich in its repertoire of courtship them when they worked and they sang peasant. When the donkey has suffered secrets of one’s soul. It also connects us in songs and this emphasis on courtship about them when they feasted. Mary, the abuse, he throws himself down and our humanity – quite an achievement for exposes a crucial aspect of Sicily’s history. Mother of God, was central to many of these refuses to work for his abuser. “Lu sceccu eight little notes! Courtship was an important ritual of life. chants. Although there were particular songs s’importuna, si curca in terra a dici, lu saziu La Musica Popolare di Sicilia is the story Since the dawn of history Sicily was the for each religious feast day, many songs had nun criri a lu diunu.” “The donkey threw of the people of Sicily – the story of Sicily prize sought by invading armies. In the last references to religion even though the song himself down on the ground and said itself. It is an interesting juxtaposition of a century it would be political unrest that was secular in nature. Religion was a central the man who has enough to eat doesn’t nation’s history and the personal histories created instability. Everything that seemed part in the life of Sicilians. A chant sung understand the man who is starving.” of a civilization. One could begin with the permanent could change almost instantly. to bear the backbreaking labor of harvest Musically, people hear so many influences lullabies – among the first songs anyone The only constant throughout history might be a recounting of the Passion. In a in Sicilian song. Some hear Spanish

12 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 13 History in Clay The Ceramics of

any cultures have ceramic fragile, impermeable to water and gave them traditions, but none boasts a lovely, lustrous sheen. The predominant Man incredible 2500-year colors, gentle gestures of blue, yellow and accumulation of influence and style from green were simply reflections of what they more than 12 different conquering peoples loved in nature, the sky, the sun and the except Sicily. The results are beautiful. earth. The designs were intricately geometric Decorative and functional vases, large or derived from the animals and plants intricate platters, charming, tiles and in their midst; roosters and lemons were colorful plaques are stunning and still popular motifs. History credits the artistry handmade. In fact, some families have of the Arabs with developing the techniques continued this tradition for generations. that are still used today; what we now refer The word ceramic is of Greek origin but to as Majolica. the ceramic‐making process didn’t have The word Majolica, was only applied a name when Sicily’s ancient inhabitants, to this technique around the 13th century influence, some hear influence, the truth of such desires and emotions are the , made tools and functional items though, when the conquering some hear Greek. Each invader left their understood by all. At the end of physical from the rich clay deposits in the hills that of Aragon came and saw that the process stamp not only on the culture, but on life, only memories remain. These memories surrounded them. They molded the clay was similar to what was being produced in the musical patrimony as well. With so captured in song reach across centuries and let the sun dry it to become what we Majorca. A short stylistic detour occurred many dimensions to this music, what to bind us together transcending our call terra cotta or baked earth. in the 15th century, under Spanish rule, could possibly describe Sicilian music modernity, our cultural differences and The art of ceramic making developed when a palette of muted blues and browns comprehensively? What words could our varied beliefs. Sicilian music reflected over time. The Sicels’ position near the dominated and the designs centered possibly gather all these songs together to the cycle of life, not in real time, but in Eastern coast, around the town now called on nobility and religious motifs. Also at fit them into one category? Perhaps that one humanity’s time. Caltagirone, left them exposed to invaders. that time, the honey industry was very word is, “desire.” Each song is an expression The Greeks and Phoenicians brought styles prosperous and vessels for storage and of humanity’s desire – whether it be desire Michela Musolino is a singer who specializes and techniques that we recognize from their transportation were produced more than to receive love, the desire to give love, the in the Roots . She is known and historically important red and black urns anything else. But by the 16th century, desire to be free, the desire to express one’s loved on both sides of the Atlantic. Her CD and amphorae. The pottery wheel was a gift Caltagirone had established itself as the faith, one’s frustrations, one’s anger, one’s Songs of Trinacria can be heard on radio from the Cretans in roughly 1000BC. Later, principal center of ceramic making and it pain. “La vita era sempre un desiderio.” “Life stations in Europe and the U.S. Her music is Etruscan influence came down through the produced much of the ornamental design was always a desire (Michele Calì).” featured in the filmUn Bellissimo Ricordo. Romans and the influence of Byzantium for churches and palazzi. Tiles and plaques It is the force of desire and the force of the She recently performed at “L’Evento in Memoria was incorporated. In the East, the Arab were soon embellished with colorful and accompanying emotions that make Sicilian di Pino Veneziano” on the windy steps of the were attempting to replicate Chinese detailed relief work and laden with heaps music stand apart from other traditions. It ruins at (YouTube), a favorite evening. porcelain coincident with their invasion of conveying wishes for fertility, is this desire and these emotions that touch of Sicily around 828 AD. Incorporating abundance and long life. In the 19th one’s soul and connect one to others be they their new knowledge, workshops began century some decline in overall production our present neighbors or be they a people firing clay and using different glazing occurred, so the artisans turned to making who lived centuries ago. The rawness and techniques, which made the objects less figurines for nativity sets. They developed

14 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 15 quite a reputation for excellence and there is to honor Santa Maria. In August, a local now a museum that showcases I Presepi, the artist designs a mosaic with thousands of Roccella Valdèmone nativity sets. illuminated candles to honor Saint Joseph. Today, the ceramics are still called A visit to this living museum is a must on A Story Majolica or glazed-earthenware and are anyone’s itinerary. It is a Mecca for ceramics- still produced in the towns of Caltagirone, lovers. It is not only uniquely beautiful to Santo-Stefano, and Sciacca. Like look at and experience, but a shopper’s By Theresa Maggio though, there are regional variations. Many paradise as well. For history-lovers, the artists work to preserve the age-old styles Museo della Ceramica does an exceptional and designs or their versions of them. job of visually describing the strong Everyday all over Sicily ceramics are made influence and important contributions and used for serving food, decorating homes of the conquering peoples. The result of or preserving traditions. The “fangotto” this history in clay is beautiful, functional, plates were used to dry tomatoes, a well- charming, pieces, always made with kept secret and a source of much pride tremendous pride, and proudly displayed by for each family member. Each individual the owners. Sicilian ceramics reflect much had their own plate design so there would about the heart and soul of the island. be no confusion about whose tomatoes were whose. The plates are still made and still referred to as a “fangatti.” According to ancient custom, “First Stones” bring prosperity and blessings when placed on the walls of the house or garden. These rustic tiles, fired with smoke from leaves, wood and paper are still sold and hang today in many homes and gardens. That was how it started. Soon I was moved to Mondello for a year in 1986. Caltagirone can thank the Arabs also hooked. The island was deadly beautiful, Piero paid for my Italian lessons with for its name, which means castle of vases. very old, most powerful and strange. I fish. In the winter I taught English in The small city is still surrounded by those stayed away for eleven years after my Palermo and wrote for a small local rich deposits of clay. Walking along the first visit, but Sicily stayed inside me. I monthly paper. Piero and I lived 100 streets is a giddy experience for visitors finished college, camped across yards from the sea. He fished Mondello who are greeted by big, colorful walls and with friends, hitchhiked the States coast Bay in his fifteen-foot wooden boat, the balustrades, ornamental statuary, tiles and to coast a couple of times, and learned to Francesca. I traveled around Sicily and plaques that are everywhere a feast for the tend bar, a good traveling trade. I turned took pictures. eyes and camera. In the town’s center are thirty in journalism school and vowed to I spent my money on film, so Piero 142 steps that will lead you from the new put my degree to good use. bought me lunch every day at the Renato town to the narrow, windy, streets of the But the year after that I decided to Bar, the hot-lunch bar closest to the sea. old town. Built in 1608, the Scala di Santa take my father to see his parents’ village. One day I had a stroke of luck. Maria del Monte are exceptional. Each riser Dad wanted to stop first at Mondello, a A procession of elderly men and separating the steps contains beautifully seaside town near Palermo, where he had women filed by the seafront bar, their old decorated tiles of every design. Along the served in the U.S. Navy after World War faces with deep creases lifelong works of climb, on either side of the steps are the Two. We liked it so much we stayed five art framed by caps and kerchiefs. They studios of master craftsmen in which you days. Piero, the lifeguard at the tourist were Sicilian, but they weren’t from this may be able to watch them at work. In beach, was a fisherman the rest of the seaside town. Theirs were the broad, spring, pots and pots of geraniums add year. He and I fell in love in short order. open, country faces of farmers and their even more color arranged in a massive array After several long vacations in Sicily, I wives.

16 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 17 “Where are they from?” I asked Piero, After supper I stopped in the piazza red glow pulsed over the crater, its inner as if he should know. where everyone already knew of my fire reflected by low clouds. Piero shrugged. “Carrapipi”, he said, arrival. Three teenage boys invited me to Next morning the town was beautiful, Sicilian for Podunk. be the guest deejay at their radio station. its stones freshly washed and silver The strangers filed into a restaurant, I sent greetings from America over the gray. A quiet parade passed below my leaving me spellbound by their faces. airwaves, and then I played Madonna’s window: a man on a mule, then a goat, I went home to get my camera, then “Papa Don’t Preach.” One boy brought a a dog, and a goose, heading in a line for waited for them in the square where their silver tray of amaretto cordials from the the town watering trough. Later I met a tour bus was parked. cafe next door. young woman, a university student home Three hours later they emerged from “All over this side of the volcano, kids for the weekend, who walked me to the the restaurant. They had arranged for a in their beds are holding their radios to site of Roccella’s seven-hundred-year-old local photographer to take their picture, their ears, listening to you,” the young castle, its stones now scattered on the and suddenly they asked to have me station manager told me. ground. in it. Twenty of the old ones pressed I stepped outside into the drizzle. The After lunch her father drove me to see together in front of the mermaid fountain houses in the valley were already dark. Roccella’s famous almond tree. Said to with me in their midst. They told me Etna was invisible, a black mountain be one of the first to flower in Sicily, it they were from Roccella Valdèmone, against a black, starless sky, but a muffled blossoms in January. And just before a tiny mountain town of a thousand sunset a farmer and his wife brought me people. to a dizzying brink to look down at the “Once a year, the town pays for a trip Alcàntara River, a silver ribbon running for the old people,” said a middle-aged through the abyss, where lemon and woman who was shepherding . orange trees grew, with grapevines slung “Otherwise they’d never get out of town.” “That man works right here,” he said, between them, in terraced orchards. She opened her map, and pointed to a and he pointed to an auto repair shop. On Tuesday morning Carmelo dot on the other side of Sicily, halfway The mechanic knew me instantly. dropped me at the train station on his between the Ionian Sea and ’s He had been one of the guides on the way to work. I had stayed three days peak. She invited me to visit. Before old people’s trip, and he acted as if he and still had all the money I came with. they left, I took some pictures of them. had been expecting me. He washed His mother wanted only my picture in In November, seven months later, I his hands, closed up the shop, and exchange for my room and board. I had went unannounced to Roccella – two walked me to the mayor’s house, where been adopted by a town so small that hours on a coach to Catania, then three he picked up the keys to the town hall. most Sicilians had never heard of it, an hours up switchbacks in a jitney to Perhaps I am to sleep here, I thought, isolated pocket of humanity where the the top of a mountain where the town but instead he opened the mayor’s top ancient custom of treating a stranger as had stood since at least the thirteenth desk drawer and handed me the photo an honored guest still thrives. century. I was the only passenger, and they’d saved for months. There I was, Excerpted from The Stone Boudoir with Roccella was the last stop. It was dark nestled in with the old ones in front of permission of the author. when the driver cut the motor. I asked the mermaid, the April sun on our faces. him where I could find a pensione and a Wet cobblestones glistened under the Theresa Maggio is the granddaughter place to eat. street lamps as we walked to a house of Sicilian immigrants. She has worked “There are no hotels or restaurants in where I would stay. There Signora as a freelance travel writer for the Daily this town,” he said. Lombardo sat on a wooden chair set over Telegraph, Financial Times and the New I had no one’s name or address in a charcoal brazier, peeling potatoes for York Times, among others. Her first Roccella, but I had my pictures. They stew. The coals warmed her through the book, Mattanza, was critically acclaimed. were slides. I slid them one by one into wicker seat. Her son, Carmelo, a music The Stone Boudoir followed, and she is my handheld viewer and showed them in teacher at the high school, showed me to presently working on a third book about the dark to the bus driver. my room. Sicily.

18 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 19 The Wine of Sicily

“No poem was ever written by a drinker of water.” horace

icily has a 4000 year old production), Malvasia, Moscato, relationship with wine and many, Verdello and Zibibbo (Passito wine) Smany vineyards. It is the second among the whites. largest wine region in Italy, accounting In spite of its long history, Sicily is still for 1/6 of all the wine making in Italy. just beginning to establish a reputation for Surprisingly to most people, it has fine wines. Maria Christina Castellucci can roughly the same wine-growing area as help you understand more. South Africa or Chile (120,000 hectares of vineyards). Until recently, most of the wine produced in Sicily was kept on the island, but wine production and sales A Glass of History have undergone a recent rebirth. There and Legend are now 23 DOCs and a sole DOCG (Cerasuolo di Vittoria). Planeta is the island’s large, modern and well-known By Maria Christina Castellucci Hera knew all about it and was mad with anymore. Zeus, beside himself with rage, producer, but there are many small jealousy. appeared to her in all his power, amid and wonderful wine producers as well. myth and religion Having decided to put a stop to the thunder and lightning, and the vision was More and more of their wines are being affair, she disguised herself as an elderly so extraordinary that the hapless princess exported to the United States, particularly he story had gone more or less neighbor, and advised Semele, who was was struck dead by it. Nero d’Avolas, made from Sicily’s most as follows: Zeus, the supreme six months pregnant, to ask her beloved to The baby in her womb would have important grape. Some of the other grapes Tsovereign of all the gods of show himself to her in his true form and met a similar sad fate if he had not you will see identified on Sicilian wine Olympus, and also an incorrigible nature, which he had so far concealed: been saved by Hermes, who, taking the labels include Frappato (Cerasuolo wine), womanizer, had fallen in love with the who could assure her that he wasn’t a embryo from inside the mother, sewed Negrello Mascalese (Faro wine), Nocera, beautiful Semele, daughter of Cadmus, king horrible monster? However, Zeus firmly it into Zeus’ thigh. From here there Perricone and Tannat among red varietals, of Thebes, and was having a secret affair refused the request, and Semele, as an emerged in due course the divine child and Cataratto, Inzolia, Grillo (all 3 used in with her. Not so secret, actually, as his wife answer, refused to grant him her favours of Dionysus. To save the latter from

20 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 21 before the first landing of the Phoenicians, nineteenth century, Sicilian wine was back in the sixteenth century B.C., by not outstandingly successful, though Mycenean sailors and settlers. production was supported by the However things went, starting from Bourbons, who were also responsible the eighth century B.C. viticulture was – among other things – for reviving very common among the Greek settlers production in the areas around , in Sicily. Under the Romans, though Vittoria, and ; the only restricted to a few areas, viticulture was exception was Marsala, which was still quite important: the Malvasia of successfully exported. the , the Syracuse Pollio, The turning point came in the late the Messina Mamertino were exported nineteenth century, thanks, we must all over the empire and appreciated say, to a piece of bad luck. In 1880- there. The decline started in the second 81, a terrible epidemic of phylloxera century A.D. Under the Byzantine decimated Sicilian vines, causing a domination, in fact, only high quality major economic disaster. But, as wines were produced, but in very already mentioned, this disaster gave small quantities, to be used with the rise to the new viticulture tradition on Eucharist. the island. Vine growers grafted on With the Arabs, wine production new stock, and also performed drastic in Sicily came to an end because, in selection, abandoning the shrub-type the ire of Hera, Hermes took him to The Israelis can boast of a viniculture conformity with the Koran, the new production, which was appropriate to the nymphs that lived on Mount Nysa in tradition lasting several millennia: It is Islamic dominators did not drink the production of wines rich in sugar Helicon, who brought him up in secret said to date right back to Noah, who, alcohol. By contrast there was an and suitable for blending. In its place in a grotto, feeding him with honey. we read in Genesis, was a farmer and increase in the production of quality the awning and espalier growing system And now he, an adolescent, lived the first to plant a vine. table grapes, for example “Zibibbo,” still were introduced, which together with here. And it was here that by chance, And, after him, all over Asia Minor today the proud boast of . good irrigation and early harvesting, crushing the grapes that hung from vines were grown: In the splendid Sicilian wine achieved new glory in now make it possible to produce the vines hiding the access to the cave, hanging gardens of Babylonia, one of the Middle Ages with the Aragonese grapes with a moderate concentration Dionysus invented wine, to which, from the seven wonders of the world, vines domination. The new seigneurs of alcohol, which are indeed rich in then on, his name was always linked. were lined up next to one another amid of Sicily exported wine made from body and colour but also in fragrance The real truth about the invention every sort of vegetable and, the tradition the island grapes all over Italy. In a and scent, perfectly able to satisfy the of wine certainly involves much more has it, the wine was worthy of the most sixteenth-century essay, “De naturali tastes and standards of the Italian and prosaic characters, but despite that, refined palates – also because it was vinorum historia,” the author international public at large. to wines and grapes there have always only the latter that tasted it! Wine was abundantly cites Sicilian wines, in been attributed great symbolic value. the beverage of the elite, and it was as particular Etna reds, and , Palermo Excerpted from Vinando: On the Wine For example, everyone knows about the such that it was sold. and Cammarata wines. Again in the Trails in Sicily with permission from the link between vines, wine, and life and sixteenth century, and more exactly publisher. blood, which is present, for instance, in The story of wine in 1594, Sante Lancerio, pontifical the Gospel. in Sicily butler and the precursor of all modern Maria Christina Castellucci is a professional In another part of the Bible, the connoisseurs, included Alcamo white in journalist who specializes in tourism, history, Deuteronomy, among the norms to be t was the Phoenicians who took the the list of best wines of the times. But travel, and culture in the Mediterranean and respected in time of war, we read: “If refined drink in their ships all over the potential of Sicilian wine and grape Northern Europe. She is the author of Sicily: anyone has planted a vine and has not Ithe Mediterranean and of course also growing was still far from being fully Nature, Culture and Tradition. She also is a yet picked its first fruits, let him go and to Sicily. known and exploited. freelance writer for Krea Publishing, including return home! Otherwise, if he die in Here however, according to archeological The centuries went by, there were travel books and Sikania magazine. She lives battle, another will pick them.” evidence, viticulture was introduced even good and bad moments. In the in Sicily.

22 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 23 La Lingua Siciliana

From a speech by Justice G.T. Pagone entitled “Past, Present, Future”

icilian is a rich language full of to prefer the Tuscan-based version of special sounds, history and music. Italian to their own rich language found SWe talk of Sicilian as a , but it in books, , music, jokes, and every has a strong claim to be “the oldest romance day speech. Dante himself considered language, older than Italian, French, Sicilian to be the first and dominant Spanish, Portuguese, Catalan, or any other language for poetry in the 13th century.3 Latin spinoff.”1 Dr Privitera, a trained The process of Tuscanization of official romance language linguist-philologist, who written documents had occurred by as a university professor had taught French, 1543, but until the fifteenth century Spanish, Italian and Portuguese at New York Sicilian had been the language in University and St Louis University, recently which official documents were written4 wrote: The rich literature of Sicily is not something to put behind a glass case to “Why has this fact been ignored these be enjoyed only by dusty scholars. It many centuries? Simply because, once is a vibrant language that lives through Italian became established as Italy’s official historical records and is still used today language, any other form of speech in the in Sicily for people to communicate country was dropped to dialect status. with each other. The special sounds And language scholars, the , and and pronunciations of Sicilian have a the Sicilians themselves, accepted this special role in the island’s history and designation. Yet, it is a recorded fact that imagination. On Easter Monday 1282 the first writings in the vernacular were the Sicilians rose in rebellion against in Sicilian at the Court of Frederick II their then French rulers in what is (1192-1250), where he formed what is known in history books, poems, songs, known as the of Poetry. opera and common knowledge as “the It is there that the was invented, .”5 The popular accounts the poetic form so widely used a century of the event recount the general slaughter later by Dante, and their of the French who at times were contemporaries.”2 recognizable by their inability to say a legacy of old Provencal introduced by “ceci” with a Sicilian accent (the French the between 1060 and 1189. 1 J.F. Privitera, Sicialian: The Oldest Romance Language (Legas, There is a rich, deep and old literature pronounced the “c” as “sh”). Deeply The old Provencal word “acatar” and its 2004), 14;Gaetano Cipolla, Siciliana: Studies on the Sicilian Ethos in Sicilian dating long before Dante’s embedded in the language is the history modern French “acheter” is very different (Legas 2005), 99-120. 2 Privitera, op cit, 14. 6 . Before Garibaldi’s of the island and its people. Like any from the Italian “comprare.” Unlike 3 Dante, , cited in Cipolla, op cit, 100; and see thousand took Sicily from its , Sicilian contains the traces Latin, Sicilian is not a dead language. fn 1 at 118. Bourbon rulers to join the resurging of its past with words having clear and People speak it actively today and use it 4 Cipolla, op cit, 107 Italian nation, there was little reason for direct links to things long forgotten. The as a modern means for literature, poetry, 5 See S. Runciman, The Sicilian Vespers (Canto, 1995). those in the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies Sicilian “accattari” (meaning “to buy”) is song and everyday speech. 6 J.F. Privitera, op cit 61.

24 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 25 A fragment from a Sicilian novel: What Makes a Child Lucky by Gioia Timpanelli

had been there for months when one bells and I finally stood up to see below, beautiful morning ‘Mmaculata woke the shepherd and his flock - a vast crowd Ime by bringing me `caffe latte cu li now moving quickly down the mountain. fidduzzi,’ the usual big cup of coffee and By the time I came home I had two hot milk with broken pieces of nice, hard beautiful bunches of wild asparagus which bread in it. I had tied with thread into bouquets like “Get up!” she ‘whispered’ loudly in that flowers, thin, thin, and very dark green. raspy voice. “Get up! Do you know what a Their wild fragrance like nothing planted wild asparagus looks like? This is the right in rows. As I handed them to ‘Mmaculata time for them on the mountain side. I can she said, feel them out there. Today, you’re going to “They deserve the best garlic and cheese, find them in the fields.” but first we have to make the dough for “Asparagus? I said. “I am an expert the lasagneddi, the thin flat pasta goes with on finding asparagus. There are patches the oil, garlic, and asparagus. To begin, you around my house that know my name.” must make the dough from good flour and “Cut it out, kid,” she laughed. “I don’t good water but the real secret is in your have time to waste on this kind of stuff this hands and how you handle the knife while morning. Have some coffee. We’re making cutting the dough. If it is right you will lasagneddi cu li sparaciddi.” always hear the same music: tsikita, tsikita, I spent hours searching for wild tsikita.” asparagus up in the mountain meadows, “Tsikita, tsikita, tsikita,” went the climbing higher and higher. The beautiful kitchen knife, cutting the folded dough Sicilian Spring day made me feel drunk. into perfect flat noodles. “Tsikita, tsikita, In the middle of the highest field I picked tsikita,” went the morning, and in the a few stalks, and just as I was adding the end we had a long string of not too thin last to my collection I heard the scattered lasagneddi drying. Later we made a whole tinkling of sheep bells. And then from pot of them and ate them with the wild some place I heard a beautiful sound – a asparagus, oil, and garlic. Beautiful thin shepherd’s pipe. I followed the music until asparagus growing on the mountain side I saw the shepherd playing his pipe, sitting in the middle of all that human evil. They on an outcropping below, his back to me. I were some of the first green things I saw walked out of sight and lay on the blessed there, so you see it was in March when ground, and for the longest time I listened everything has hope but is holding danger Gioia Timpanelli is considered the “Dean of to the music. I can’t tell you how long I as well. My father used to say each year, Storytelling.” She is a master, scholar and award stayed there for time was lost; and when `March sits like a knife, bitter winter on winner and her tales, both written and oral, are suddenly the music stopped, I heard a one side and spring on the other.’ Tsikita, treasures. Sometimes the Soul, written prior to great rush of tlee tlee tlinging of tiny sheep tsikita, tsikita went my life. What Makes A Child Lucky is also set in Sicily.

26 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 27 Discover Sicily Through Reading

The Land, The History fishermen who chase the bluefin, And The People reenacting a hunt that extends far back into prehistory and whose rituals, On Persephone’s Island including that ceremonial massacre, Mary Taylor Simeti have gone essentially unchanged for A detailed portrait of Sicily by an thousands of years. American writer who married a Sicilian and settled there in 1962. Wonderfully A House in Sicily descriptive of rural life and local festivals Daphne Phelps all focused around the seasons. The true story of a British woman who inherited a house near and Sicilian Odyssey how she developed a personal love and Francine Prose understanding of Sicily and the Sicilians many return visits, he wrote about the Language and Travel Guide to Sicily A travel memoir that uncovers the past while hosting a bevy of writers and island and its people as they changed over Giovanna Bellia La Marca and observes the present while opening artists from Europe and America. Funny, the years. A good introductory guide to the island, the reader’s eyes to the beauty of the warm and instructive. A primer on how its major sites and the . rugged landscape and the Sicilian people. to live happily in a foreign land. Excellent Cadavers: The and the Language CDs and translations included. Death of the First Italian Republic The Stone Boudoir: In Search of the The Golden Honeycomb Alexander Stille Sicilian Feasts Hidden Villages of Sicily Vincent Cronin Fascinating account of the , Giovanna Bellia La Marca Theresa Maggio The search for a, perhaps, legendary corruption in Italy, and the events that An easy and informative guide to the food A captivating personal journey through golden honeycomb offered by Daedalus led up to the assassination of top anti- of the seasons and celebrations. towns and settlements. Her portrait to Aphrodite in gratitude for his escape Mafia prosecutors Falcone and Borselino. of Sicilians is insightful and full of from King Minos of Crete. A poetic, Available in film. Pomp and Sustenance : Twenty Five warmth. Her descriptions of festivities romantic and scholarly history of Sicily, Centuries Of Sicilian Food and traditions, scenery and beauty are written as the author travels from place Midnight in Sicily: On Art, Food, History, Mary Taylor Simeti evocative and compelling. to place in search of the truth. An Travel and La Cosa Nostra A classic. A chronicle of the island’s rich extremely useful read to help pick apart Peter Robb heritage, this book is a mix of culinary Mattanza: The Ancient Sicilian Ritual of the layered history visible in churches Robb puts the elusive world of organized history and traditions, recipes included. Bluefin Tuna Fishing and cathedrals as well as at the sites of crime (both Neapolitan and Sicilian) Simeti’s writing is engaging and mouth Theresa Maggio the very well preserved ruins. in a historical context that stretches back watering. A mattanza, in Italian, is a slaughter. to the nineteenth century. Interwoven Theresa Maggio relates a springtime In Sicily are writers such as Leonardo Sciascia, Bitter Almonds – Recollections and slaughter of bluefin tuna, the fish Norman Lewis Giuseppe di Lampedusa, Pier Paolo Recipes from a Sicilian Girlhood highly prized by sports fishermen A loving profile of an extraordinary Pasolini, and the connection they saw Maria Grammatico and Mary Taylor Simeti and gourmands. Maggio describes country, based on Lewis’ sixty-year-long between the rich food of Sicily and A renowned pastry cook and shopkeeper masterfully the hard lives of Sicilian fascination with all things Sicilian. On his the mob. in , Sicily, Grammatico recalls

28 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 29 the hardships endured during her Salvatore Quasimodo (1901-1968) girlhood, spent as an orphan in a Sicilian The Selected Writings of Salvatore Discover Sicily cloister, and lends poignancy to the Quasimodo uncomplicated, sweet pastries that make up her life’s work. Piero Paolo Pasolini (1922-1975) Through Film Poems Gangivecchio’s Sicilian Kitchen Sicilian Home Cooking: Family Recipes Gioia Timpanelli (1952- ) from Gangivecchio Sometimes The Soul: Two Novellas of Sicily Wanda and Giovanna Tornabene What Makes a Child Lucky A Ciascuno il Suo and convictions of many important The home cooking and history of their (To Each His Own) (1967) gangsters. family, the 600-year-old estate in the Lawrence Durrell (1912-1990) Directed by Elio Petri with Irene Papas Madonie Mountains and the colorful Sicilian Carousel this film was inspired by Leonardo Divorzio all’Italiana evolution of Sicilian cooking. Sciascia’s novel. The film narrates the (Divorce, Italian Style) (1961) Andrea Camilleri (1925- ) story of a teacher who, in what looks Pietor Germi’s comedy has Marcello The Shape of Water and many others like a crime of passion, discovers the Mastroianni as a Sicilian aristocrat Fiction The Inspector Montalbano Series is hand of the mafia. Many of the scenes seeking a divorce when divorce in Italy hugely popular and has been adapted for were made in Cefalù. You can recognize was not legal. Filmed in Catania. Giuseppe Tomasi Di Lampedusa television and film. The stories take place the beautiful Norman cathedral. For the (1896-1957) in Sicily although Camilleri is not Sicilian. hunting scene, the director chose the Don Giovanni In Sicilia (1967) The Leopard countryside around Finale di Directed by Albert Lattuada. Filmed in The quintessential story of a Sicilian Catania, this is the story of a boy who is prince and his family during the days Caro Diario (1994) raised and pampered by his three sisters. of transition and Garibaldi’s unification Directed by and starring Nanni Moretti, He adopts the persona of Don Giovanni of Italy. this semi-autobiographical film, for to hide his insecurities about romance which Nanni won Best Director at and love. Giovanni Verga (1840-1922) Cannes, reads like a diary. It is divided Il Malavoglia into 3 episodes, In Vespa, Isole (filmed Excellent Cadavers (2005) Cavalleria Rusticana and Other Stories on the Aeolian Islands) and Medici. Documentary by Marco Turco. The Little Novels of Sicily (translated by name in Italian is used to describe DH Lawrence) Cinema Paradiso (1989) high-profile victims of the mafia such Giuseppe Tornatore’s Academy-Award- as politicians, judges, and police Leonardo Sciascia (1921-1989) winning film takes a romantic look chiefs. Based on Alexander Stille’s To Each His Own at growing up in a remote village. book, this movie guides the viewer The Wine-Dark Sea The filmmaker returns to his Sicilian through notable events including the The Day of the Owl hometown, , for the first time in assassinations of Falcone and Borselino. 30 years and looks back on his life. Remarkable photojournalist and anti- Elio Vittorini (1908-1966) mafia activist Lettizia Battaglia plays a Conversations in Sicily Diario di Una Siciliana Ribelle (1997) role in the film. A Vittorini Omnibus: In Sicily, the Twilight Directed by Marco Amenta. This is the of the Elephant true story of , the 17 year-old Ginostra (2002) daughter of a Mafia don who gives her Filmed on the Aeolian Islands, in the (1867-1936) diaries to the authorities to avenge her town of the film title, director Manuel Eleven Short Stories/Undici Novelle father’s death. Her evidence and work Pradal tells the story of an FBI investigator (A Dual-Language Book) with Borselino and Falcone proved who is sent to Italy to investigate the One, No One, and One Hundred Thousand extremely valuable in the exposure death of a Mafia informant.

30 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 31 Benigni. Stecchino (toothpick) is a failed dream of independence. Originally hapless bus driver who is believed to be a failure at the box office, the film has a snitch for the mob. Filmed in Bagheria, emerged as a classic of the neo-realistic Palermo. movement. Filmed in Aci Trezza.

Kaos (Chaos) (1984) Malena (2001) Directed by Paolo and Vittorio Taviani, Directed by Giuseppe Tornatore and set Kaos tells four separate stark and during WWII and filmed in Messina, powerful tales of Sicilian life based on this is the story of the life of beautiful stories by Luigi Pirandello. Filmed with Malena, her husband’s absence, a boy’s haunting music around Pirandello’s obsession and angry townspeople. hometown of . Nuovomondo L’Avventura (1960) (The Golden Door) (2006) The first half of Michelangelo Antonioni’s Directed by Emanuele Crialese and set masterpiece was filmed off the coast at the turn of the century, this is a film of Panarea and on the nearby island about poor, illiterate farmers who want of Lisca Bianca. The film is a scathing to emigrate to America, a better place. examination of Italy’s aristocratic classes Their story is the story of old customs, set within the framework of a mystery courage, fears and the importance of the I Cento Passi (2000) Il Giorno della Civetta story. homeland. This was directed by Marco Tullio (The Day of the Owl) (1968) Giordana with Luigi Lo Cascio and This film was directed by Damiano L’Uomo Delle Stelle (2000) Luigi Burruano. The film reconstructs Damiani, with and (The Star Maker) (1995) The historical events which inspired the story of Peppino Impastato, born Franco Nero. Leonardo Sciascia’s novel Affecting story from “Cinema Paradiso” director, Pasquale Scimeca, took place at . Peppino’s father was related was Damiani’s inspiration: A builder is director Giuseppe Tornatore about a at , but the film was set in the to, and worked for Tano Badalamenti, killed and the mafia wants the crime to con man from Rome who, posing as a small village of in the Madonie. a powerful Mafia boss. Young Peppino, be dismissed as a crime of passion. This Hollywood talent scout, travels with a The centre is Piazza Mazzini, where deaf to calls and admonishments, time we are in the village of , a movie camera to impoverished villages the main thoroughfare, Corso Vittorio rebelled against the arrogance of few kilometres west of Palermo. Many of in 1950s Sicily, promising stardom –for Emanuele begins. Also worth seeing, in Badalamenti, and for this reason the scenes were made in Piazza Duomo a fee – to gullible townspeople. To the Terravecchia district, which is the in 1978 was killed. The set was and Corso dei Mille. follow the locations of L’uomo Delle oldest district, is the little medieval San reconstructed in the places in which Stelle you need to move from one end Michele church. the events really took place at Cinisi: Il Postino (1994) of Sicily to the other. You will find You will see Corso Umberto, Piazza Michael Radford’s lovely romance set in a yourself in Monterosso Almo, in the Respiro (2002) Vittorio Emanuele Orlando and Piazza small Italian town during the 1950s, where Iblei Mountains, Ragusa Ibla, Gangi, Directed by Emanuele Crialese, this is a Stazione. exiled Chilean Pablo Nerudo has Marzamemi, the Gurfa Caves near story of family and misunderstanding and taken refuge. A shy mailman befriends the Palermo, and Morgantina, today used as is filmed on the island of Lampedusa. Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) (1968) poet and uses his words – and, ultimately, a setting for a lot of films. The locations This is ’s film version of the writer himself – to help him woo a included in this movie inspired Theresa Salvatore Giuliano (1961) Giuseppe di Lampedusa’s novel. Set in woman with whom he has fallen in love. Maggio’s book The Stone Boudoir. While exploring the Sicilian world where revolutionary Sicily in the mid-1800s, Filmed in Procida (Bay of Naples) and the politics and crime exist in a turbulent the film stars Burt Lancaster as a Sicilian Aeolian Island of Salina. La Terra Trema marriage, director Franco Rosi sets this prince who seeks to preserve his family’s (The Earth Trembles) (1948) film in 1950’s Western Sicily. The city of aristocratic way of life. Filmed in Johnny Stecchino (1991) Luchino Visconti’s adaptation of Verga’s Castelvetrano, the piazzas of , Palermo, Mondello and . Wonderful comedy directed by Roberto I Malavoglia, the story of a fisherman’s the mountains, and the small villages are

32 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 33 scenes of the life of the Sicilian Robin town of Forza d’Agrò (Messina province), Discover Sicily Discover Sicily Hood, Salvatore Giuliano, one of Italy’s in the Peloritani Mountains, which Through Music in poetry most beloved and handsome criminals. becomes Corleone in the fiction. Another This Neo-Realist film deals with his important location, used in all three films, There are many, many artists who have The Poetry of Emanuel di Pasquale passion for an independent Sicily and his is the Castle of Slaves, near Fiumefreddo recorded traditional Sicilian music over murder at the age of only 27. The story di Sicilia, which becomes the villa of an time, too many to be included here. For Letter From Sicily is so captivating that wrote old family friend of the Corleones, Don a good beginning, here is a list of artists We haven’t stolen the grape from The Sicilian, a dramatized version of the Tommasino. Lastly, some scenes of The whose music can be found easily online the vineyard by the sea. story in 1984 and this was made into a Godfather part III were filmed in Palermo, at cdroots.com and other online outlets. That creek where we used to wash film in 1987. An opera entitled Salvatore at Villa Malfitano, and on the steps of the The music is the individual interpretation the stolen grape is now dry; Giuliano by Lorenzo Ferrero premiered nineteenth-century . by these artists of sometimes centuries old the water loses itself in Rome in 1986 music. in the fields. The Orange Thief (2006) This summer even the hunt has grown stale. Sedotta e Abbandonata Directed by Boogie Dean (aka Aristotle Alfio Antico Matilde Politi Perhaps the rabbits have all hopped (Seduced and Abandoned) (1964) Silvio), with Vinnie Angel, and Artie Rosa Balistreri Carmelo to America to taunt hunters Directed by Pietro Germi starring Lando Wilinski, The Orange Thief is an Rita Botto Etta Scollo braver than our hunters. Buzzanca and Stefania Sandrelli, this is independent film, having been created Carlo Muratori Sikilia Return dear friend, a masterpiece of a comedy, narrating the from scratch in one month--in a foreign Vincenzo for one more feast grotesque story of a beautiful girl who is language, with Italian and Sicilian non- Kaballà Spampinato on a hill, seduced and abandoned. This on actors, by first time directors in the Lautari Taberna Mylaensis under the stars, Sicilian society, in which saving honor mountains of Sicily. It was filmed entirely Malanova where we may watch our children dance. seems to be the most important thing, in Lucca. Michela Mussolino was set in Sciacca. Roy Paci & Aretuska Take The Song (1950) Take the song , Terra di Dio (1950) Directed by William Dieterle, this is a The song will save you Roberto Rossellini filmed this classic on lesser known Neo-Realist film with a great Not woman, the Aeolian Islands in 1949. Stromboli, perfomance by Anna Magnani. The film is Who moans for hay Terra di Dio marked the beginning of set on the island of Vulcano in the Aeolian And coverlet Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman’s highly Islands. Not time, publicized affair. That twists us into virtue And death Tano da Morire (1997) Take the song From Director Roberta Torre comes a The ocean and the wind grotesque musical sending up the Mafia. And swim in it. Alongside the actors, the protagonist of the film is the noisy and colourful Cartwheel To The Moon Vucciria market in Palermo, one of the I do cartwheels. most picturesque and authentic places in One day I’ll cartwheel to a mountain, the city. And from the mountain I’ll cartwheel to the moon. The Godfather (1972, 1974, and 1990) Directed by Francis Ford Coppola, a Emanuel di Pasquale was born in Ragusa He Mafia classic with Marlon Brando. This has won many awards for his books of poetry film redefined the gangster film genre. and translations. said that his Coppola chose a lot of Sicilian locations “finely observed and delicate lyrics are at once for this trilogy. One of these was the innocent and sophisticated, urban and pastoral”.

34 Sicilia Bedda A celebration of sicily 35

Many thanks to those who helped enable this production:

Patrizia Calce Belmont Business Improvement District Cacio e Vino www.cacioevino.com Calandra Institute www.qcpages.qc.cuny.edu/calandra Linda Cardillo www.lindacardillo.com Casa Italiana www.casaitaliananyu.org Louis Coluccio, Jr. www.dcoluccioandsons.com Tony De Nonno www.denonnoproductions.com Giovanna Bellia La Marca www.giovannalamarca.com Richard Legnini David MacGregor www.verduraresort.com Theresa Maggio www.theresamaggio.com Michela Musolino www.michelamusolino.com Emanuele di Pasquale The Pottery Co. www.thepotteryco.com WHO WE ARE Roberto Ragone La RosaWorks is dedicated to the Bill promotion of Sicily; to encourage tourism www.centanni.com and an interest in Sicilian food, wine and James Salser products, to preserve its rich heritage, to www.design158.com impart an appreciation of its history, foster Gioia Timpanelli, M.A. a positive image and ultimately to reveal Westchester Italian Cultural Center, the magical beauty that makes Sicily www.wiccny.org unique. All Photographs by Karen La Rosa, except where noted. “And anyone who has once known this land can never be quite free © La RosaWorks LLC, 2010 from the nostalgia for it.” SICILIA MIA BEDDA was produced by La RosaWorks LLC www.larosaworks.com d.h. lawrence

A celebration of sicily 39

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TH E R O CC O FO R T E CO L LECTION THE ART oF SiMPLE LuxuRy Berlin, Hotel de Rome • Brussels, Hotel Amigo • Edinburgh, The Balmoral • , Hotel Savoy Frankfurt, Villa Kennedy • Geneva, Le Richemond • , Brown’s Hotel • Munich, The Charles Hotel Prague, The Augustine • Rome, Hotel de Russie • Sicily, Verdura Golf and Spa Resort St. Petersburg, Hotel Astoria

Coming soon: Abu Dhabi (2010) Jeddah (2011) Marrakech (2012) Cairo (2013)