899 send them send them can None required for most visitors for for most visitors for None required GMT/UTC. Daylight savings from Daylight savings from GMT/UTC. Time March to October. Visas stays up to 90 days

„ „

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TRAVEL HINTS HINTS TRAVEL at the startBe wary of the nibbles provided of a meal as they can cost and you back. PORTUGAL ROAMING on to Óbidos and coastal Nazaré before Check out Move then Lisbon and nearby Sintra. to Évora and heading south to the Algarve. sidestepping FAST FACTS FACTS FAST „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „

the coast for most of the way between Lagos and Vila Real de Santo António ( p912 ) p912 the way between Lagosthe coast for most of ( and Vila Real de Santo António forests and over high plateaus dotted with ancient stone villages and archaeological and archaeological with ancient stone villages dotted high plateaus and over forests p924 ) sites( Óbidos ) p917 ( with tourists but still exquisite fondue set)and is overrun Porto ) p921 and heady sights ( Best journey Off-the-beaten-track

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Portugal is a quieter, calmer place than its exuberant neighbour, . But it’s far from dull. Thanks calmer place than its exuberant neighbour, Portugal is a quieter, a strong and fascinating sense identity isolation, Portugal has retained geographic of to its relative you still see the on their heads and, despite women carrying shopping In rural areas and culture. importantly, the tinsel-town–style attractions. More few relatively are in tourism, there increase is still the best in Europe and it’s coffee

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S do Douro Miranda E82 Ciudad Rodrigo Cáceres lonelyplanet.com S PAIN Seville Glitzville-by-the-sea. resortsproud historiccitiesandcoastal which stilllookmore townsthan like seafaring landscape wellalone. Portugalispure holiday-brochure cliché, withancientstonevillages, social, economicandeducationalreforms. hopeheleaves Gulp.Let’s thearchitecture and SilvahasvowedtoworkwithPrimeMinistereconomist Cavaco Sócrates inmakingsweeping a relatively poorcountry.AtleastPortugal’sbrand-newpresident isgoodatarithmetic:ex- EUfundinghasvastlyimprovedflipside isthat,although theinfrastructure, Portugalisstill lonelyplanet.com region and surrounds. acres) burned,mainly inthecentralCoimbra well, with200,000 hectares (about494,000 by 35%.Itwasacritical yearforbushfires as financialprojectionsand slashedthesector’s agricultureliving memory,which devastated withtheworstnews, however, in drought Football Championships. by Portugal’splayinghosttothe European of CultureCapital in2001 followed,in2004, was furthered asaEuropean byPorto’sstatus ’98 alsogave thecountryanegoboost.This cured, atlast, ameasure of andExpo stability but Portugal’sentryintotheEUin1986se- andleft, thepoliticalright swings between million refugees. can coloniesledtothearrivalof nearlyone granting of independencetoPortugal’s Afri- coupon25April1974.Thesubsequent tary colonial warinAfricaledtoapeacefulmili- withhisregimesatisfaction andaruinous of AntóniodeOliveira Salazar. dis- General coupledtothedictatorship when amilitary monarchy in1910. followed bycivilwarandtheabolitionof the later, cameNapoleon’sthwarted invasion, a massive earthquake in1755;then,50years Portugal’s thronefor90years; Lisbonsuffered Europe. launched Lisbonasthewealthiestcityin were discovered, creating anempire that century Christianconquest,newtraderoutes for more information).Followingthe12th- inSilves theircapital (see established p914 where theMoorsnoticeable intheAlgarve, dark looksof thepeople. Thisisparticularly ence lingers intheculture, architecture and Portugal inthe8thcentury,andtheirinflu- mans andVisigoths. TheMoors conquered Greeks, Phoenicians, Ro- cluded theCelts, of settlers theIberianPeninsulaEarly in- HISTORY The economic base isalsovery largelyThe economicbase traditional,based onfishing, wineandtextiles. The The followingyearthere wasmore bad extremeThe 1970sandearly’80ssaw Doom andgloomcontinuedin1926 By 1580life wasn’tsorosy:Spainoccupied PORTUGAL ••History PORTUGAL has itsown tochurches. fromhouses everything Lisbon the stunningpainted ling columnsand elaborate ornamentation. discovery andishugely flamboyantwithspiral- thatera’s zestfor (1495–1521). Itsymbolises ture, namedafter itspatronKingManuel I Mariza 2005release whose (fate) and thebest-knownsinger, hipyoung the melancholy, songscalled nostalgic The best-knownformof musicis Portuguese ARTS west of Sintra,orSagres intheAlgarve. and kite-surfing headforPraiadoGuincho, federation atwww.fps.pt.Forthebestwind- many surfingbeaches; check outthenational siasts cancatch thewaves atoneof Portugal’s clubs andridingcentres. Water-sports enthu- for info. alsohave Touristoffices listsof tennis golfisbig;clickonwww.portugalgolf.pt garve, Nacional.IntheAl- Estadio new 54,000-seat Sporting. Euro2004resulted inawhopping and Belenenses Lisbon’s teams are , Football isthemaincrowd-pullingsporthere. SPORT lots of points. clumsily,willearnyou however Portuguese, Speaking into lackof andtardiness. efficiency unhurried approach tolife thatcantranslate areeral, thePortuguese congenial, withan country.Ingen- and remains aconservative Europe.tral andEastern aninfluxofbeen new immigrantsfromcen- immigrants. SinceMay 2004there hasalso abroad, butincludesAfricanandBrazilian the estimated living three millionPortuguese Portugal’s population of 10.4millionexcludes THE CULTURE more details). trict hasplentyof a worldwidetopseller. Lisbon’sAlfamadis- The most striking Portuguese visualartareThe moststriking Portuguese Portugal has a strong Catholic influence Portugal hasastrongCatholic Unique toPortugalisManueline architec- azulejo fado museum ( museum p905 ). azulejo houses (see (see houses p909 for Transparente tiles,covering

901 fado fado was PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Lisbon, Porto andFaro.Lisbon, Porto 264 2229;www.bmibaby.com) Inexpensiveflightsto easyJet Midlands/Bmibaby British Air Portugal Air Berlin in andoutof Portugalinclude: low-cost carriers (see p1206 ). Airlinesflying ortransferas abase pointwiththevarious only inPortuguese. airports iswww.anaaeroportos.pt,butit 801) the does 432 400) FranciscoSáCarneiro Aeroporto 8km northof Lisbon’scitycentre. Porto’s Portela Portugal’s maingateway airportis Air THERE&AWAY GETTING TRANSPORT in more than100years. country, January 2005wasthedriestJanuary livestock andagriculture. Inmanypartsof the to losses indecadeswithdevastating drought the webathttp://whc.unesco.org. Heritage Sites inPortugal. Checkthemouton 7% of Portugal’slandarea. There are 13World approximatelytotal 6500sqkm–justover and protected landscape areas. areas These Portugal has25naturalparks,nature reserves ENVIRONMENT 902 Berlin and Dusseldorf to Lisbon, Porto andFaro. toLisbon,Porto Berlin andDusseldorf airports toFaro.airports Flies fromLondon Luton UK toLisbonand fromseveral Madrid. flies tomostEuropeancapitals,includingParis, Romeand Themaininternational airline,AirPortugal in Portuguese) You cansave bigbucksbyusingtheUK fromitsworst suffering Portugal hasbeen Torga. Mountain The Creation oftheWorld checkoutrealities of20th-centuryPortugal life andculture. Foraglimpse intotheharsh their evocative novels aboutcontemporary include LídiaJorge andAnaGusmão,with literary sceneHot namesinthePortuguese READING UP in the Algarve. The website for all three intheAlgarve. TRANSPORT •• Getting There &Away ••Getting TRANSPORT also handles international flights, as alsohandlesinternational flights, (code EZY; (codeEZY;

(code LIS; (www.airberlin.com) Regular flightsfrom (www.airberlin.com)Regular Aeroporto deFaro Aeroporto (codeTAP; byrenowned localwriter Miguel % % 218 413700;www.easyjet.com) 218 413700) % 289 800218;www.tap.pt, (codeWW; or

(code FAO; , approximately

Tales fromthe (code OPO; % % UK 0870 Aeroporto Aeroporto % 229 800 229 Paris. Tickets are available fromlarger train www.flymonarch.com) FliesintoFaro. Manchester, Brussels,NiceandLyon. Manchester, increasingly openingupinternationalroutesincluding adomesticairline,butis www.pga.pt) Primarily Spanish) FliesintoLisbonandPorto. Flies toLisbon. toLisbonandFaro. fromStuttgart services was UK£179. of research, thereturn fare London–Lisbon niel, Spain,andLilleinFrance. Atthetime the Channelferry andstoppingover inBu- from VictoriaCoachtravelling Station, via hours) andPorto(40hours). depart Buses stopsthatincludeLisbon(42with several offers departures forPortugaltwiceweekly, Eurolines UK Bus .co.uk) P&O but youcantravel tonorthernSpainwith There are noferries fromtheUKtoPortugal, Boat Spanair Ryan Air Airlines Portugália Monarch Airlines Iberia GermanWings (French Railways; www.sncf.com)(French Railways; Youcanbook directly with the Algarve. change trains,changing againatLisbonfor from Paris toIrún(in Spain),where you into Portugal.Bothtake theTGV There are trains long-distance twostandard Train lineEVA.jointly withtheAlgarve toFaro viaHuelva, andLagos day fromSeville 95 9256900) while Madrid–Lisbon services, going atleastthree timesweekly. (€80,16hours),and Barcelona–Lisbon all (€36,fourhours) hours),eight Seville–Lisbon to Portugal,includingMadrid–Lisbon (€40, Spanish) Eurolines Spain Flies fromLondonStanstedtoPorto. All services fromLondon similarlygovia All services ALSA (www.poferries.com) ferries (codeIB; operates several services fromSpain services operates several (codeJK;

(codeFR; (

% ( ( % % runstwicedailyMondaytoSatur- Madrid 902422242) Madrid

then hittheroadtoPortugal. (www.germanwings.com) Frequent Madrid 915063360;www.eurolines.es, in Madrid % UK 08705143219;www.eurolines.co.uk) % % (codeZB; 808 261 261; www.iberia.com, in 808 261261;www.iberia.com, (codePGA; 218 4998578;www.spanair.com) 229 432400;www.ryanair.com) or Brittany Brittany % . % 289 889475; hastwice-daily lonelyplanet.com (www.brittanyferries 218 425559; Damas Atlantique ( %

Huelva SNCF

www.trainseurope.co.uk) AA andRAC. with major foreign automobile clubs,such as andhasareciprocalassistance arrangement www.acp.pt, in Portuguese; www.acp.pt, inPortuguese; Contact Contact hours off thetripbutbumpsupcost. Paris viatheChannelTunnelcutsseveral orfrom stations lonelyplanet.com cles must have headlights on day and night. cles must have onday andnight. headlights passengers mustwear helmets,and motorcy- belts. Motorcyclistsand cars mustwear seat middle lane. Drivers and frontpassengers in invented aninvisible –anddisconcerting vehicles fromyourhomecountry. must have adrivinglicencecovering these licence. Formore powerfulmotorbikes you to 50ccyoumustbe18-pluswith a driving for ayearminimum.Tohire ascooter of up be atleast25andhave heldyour homelicence Lisbon) 228340001;RuaRosaAraújo24, help numberforthenorth emergency helpnumberforthesouth219429103, ClubedePortugal Automóvel &Motorcycle Car services. distance discount of around20%,atleastonthelong- An under-26 card(see p1191 ) gets you a and buses; majortween cities; pressos ules are posted atmajor stations. andsched- print-out of fares andallservices ticketMost bus-station deskscanprovide a in Portuguese) Expressos Rede nationalnetworkis Portugal’s mostimportant Bus nied baggage. most buslineswillacceptthemasaccompa- can’t betaken withyouontrains,although rental outfits(around€10aday).Bicycles it canbedangerous. Mosttownshave bike- penchant for overtaking onblindcorners, given the countryalthough, thePortuguese bikingisagreatMountain waytoexplore Bicycle AROUND GETTING rope.co.uk) To hire acarinPortugalyoumustgenerally Drive defensively. drivers Portuguese have There are three of classes busservice: provides medical,legalandbreakdown are fast,direct be- comfortable, buses fordetails. Rail Europe Rail , withconnectionsto300locations. carreiras

( % LISBON••Orientation Trains Europe 969 502 050; www.rede-expressos.pt, 969 502050;www.rede-expressos.pt, . The Eurostar service to service . TheEurostar

stop at every crossroad. stopatevery ( rápidas % % 08705-848848; www.raileu head office213180100, (ACP; Map (ACP;Map pp902-3 ; are fastregional

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% 218 €2.50; 6.30am to1am. et retour) of 10tickets for€6.15.Areturn ticket tickets cost€0.70oryoucanbuya to get totheParque dasNações.Individual forhopsacross townand The metroisuseful METRO minutes). (€1.35,30minutes, 30 runsevery and Seixal (€1.65, 30minutes, 30minutes) runsevery zipacrosstoMonijoterminal catamarans FromTerreiro toSetúbal. some buses doPaço 15minutes),runs every atransfer pointfor (€0.60,10minutes, doSodrétoCacilhas Cais ferries bicycleandpassenger leaveCar, from FERRY Sodré ortram15fromPraçadaFigueira. do take bus43fromCais 1am. Toreach Belém ticket costs€1.20. (see p904 formore information).Asingle unlimited travel onnearlyallcitytransport isgoodvalueasitoffersThe LisboaCard kiosksandmetrostations. it upfromCarris ,metrosandfuniculars. Pickall buses, Colinas A €3.70/6.90/13.40ticket knownas the BUS & Transport Public at central 23) Praça daRepública centre. Frequent runtothehistoric shuttlebuses in thenew-towndistrictof Portela deSintra. areanother trainstation, afurther 1kmeast east of thecentre. and Sintra’sbusstation, The Estefânia is1.5kmnorth- trainstation &Information Orientation athome. heels andleavehilly, sovisitoutof season thehigh of Portugal’skings,theplaceispopularand countryside. Thetraditionalsummerretreat aces andmanors surroundedbylush green Sintra isatwinklingtiaraof stunningpal- pop 20,000 SINTRA AROUND LISBON The andtramsgenerally runfrom6amto Buses h tourist office tourist 9am-2pm & 3-8pmMon-Sat) is goodforone/three/five dayson is€1.25.Themetrooperates from Casa Viola Viola Casa hasmaps.Checkyour emails ( % (Rua DrAlfredo daCosta 4;perhr 219 231157;www.cm-sintra.pt; lonelyplanet.com . caderneta (allé 7

pictures adornthistraditionalmanorhouse 6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct &Nov,10am-3.30pmDec-Feb) 10am-4pmOct 6pm Jun-Sep, €10/5, guidedtours€20/10; adult/tent €2.70/2.60) €50/60, withshared bathroom€35/45) gardens 4kmfromtown. tage h 20,000 toysfromaroundtheworld. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com the station. Lisboa Card (see (see Lisboa Card p904 ) Mostaresights. free ordiscounted withthe cal themepark,there are compulsory several thewholetownresemblesAlthough ahistori- Sights &Activities lonelyplanet.com this friendly placedishes upcomfortfood (yawn) karaoke onMondays. andmeals, rockmusic onSundaynights mains €6) and outsideterrace withduckpondviews. grandmotherly rooms with itsgrandstaircase, with frequent andbicyclesforhire. buses, leafy campinggroundis11kmfromSintra PraiaGrande Camping Sleeping &Eating excursions (€35). Esq, Belas;www.cabramontez.com) Guided tours mustbeprearranged. travaganza that’soneof Sintra’s highlights. an early-20th-centuryneo-Manueline ex- 9am-8pm Jun-Sep) ( antly kitsch, treasure-filled Gardens. Monserrate provides fineviews.Entranceincludesthe child €3.50/2; parts of from thecentre, the8th-centuryruinedram- Tue-Sun) Visconde deMonserrate;adult/child€3/1.50; twin chimneys dominatingthetown. mix of MoorishandGothicarchitecture with adult/child €4/2; Sun) % En route tothegardensisWorldHeri- Xentra Gardens Monserrate An energetic 3kmgreenery-flanked hike The Tulhas Marques Villa Montêz Cabra Trudge onfor20minutes totheexuber- The closed Wed) . Alternatively, take bus434(€3.20)from 219 105340;adult/child€6/4; QuintadaRegaleira offers playtimepotential with serious Acavernous bar withcanteen-style Palácio NacionaldeSintra Museu doBrinquedo Museu

Castelo dosMouros Castelo ( ( % % h Fullof happilychomping locals, 219 232378;RuaGilVicente 4-6;mains€7; 219 240 759; Rua Consiglieri Pedroso219 240759;RuaConsiglieri 2a; h are fabulouslylush botanical 9am-8pm Jun-Sep, 9am-7pmOct-May) 9am-8pm Jun-Sep, ( ( % AROUNDLISBON••Cascais % 10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue) Across fromthebeach, this 219 230 027; Rua Sotto Mayor 1;s/d 219 230027;RuaSottoMayor 917 446 668; Rua D Mafalda, 19-5 917 446668;RuaDMafalda, (

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while checking youremailsat Slurpasoftlists andbustimetables. drink €7) ground, tennis courts andgrocery. woods 1km fromGuincho beach with play- camp sitesperadult/tent €4.40/5.50) OrbiturdoGuincho Camping Sleeping &Eating and motorcycles. Commercial Cisne,Av Marginal) surfing venue. Guincho frombothtowns).Wild bybuses (served andSintra most point,is16kmfromCascais Spectacular Inferno roars intothecoastat pool. Thesea show 11pm) ( east of with Europe’slargest Cascais Estoril Sights &Activities ( .com; RuaViscondedeLuz 14) restaurants. town, andahappyabundance of bars and with elegantbuildings,anatmosphericold resort isacrowdedsummerseaside Cascais pop 33,255 CASCAIS costs €1.20. Praia dasMaças, 12kmtothewest;trip Ribeira deSintra(1.5kmfromthecentre) to cost€60return.serrate Oldtramsrunfrom €15 return. Horse-drawn carriages toMon- (€3.10,45minutes).40 minutes) andCascais runhourlyfromSintratoEstoril(€3.10, Buses (€1.40,45minutes). Riosstation from theSete reopens, Until Lisbon’sRossostation trainsrun &Around There Getting (green vegetable soup). andtheubiquitous sandwiches salads, pans hangingover thebarandserving and cream. like midnight Mon-Sat May-Sep, 10am-8pmMon-SatOct-Apr). midnight Mon-SatMay-Sep, % % Anatmosphericoldtavern withpotsand Praia Tamariz The Transrent toPenaA taxi costsaround orMonserrate O Chico 214 667 700; www.-estoril.pt; 214 667700;www.casino-estoril.pt; 214 840 150; Sebastião Carvalho e Melo 17; eMelo Carvalho 214 840150;Sebastião bacalhau isaclassypalm-fringed resort 2km (Hell’s Mouth),2kmwest of Cascais. tourist office tourist beach, 3km from Cascais, isapopular beach, 3kmfromCascais,

. ( %

( % Cabo daRoca Cabo 966 894744;RuaArcodoTeixeira 8;snacks topped with mashed potatoes toppedwithmashedpotatoes beach has anoceanswimming 214 864566;www.transrent.pt; Centro

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PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Estuário do Sado, contact Estuário doSado, contact Naturaldo theReserva tripsthrough canoe da Arrábida,or ing andbikingin theSerra walksfrom€5perperson.ganises Forhik- 9) Luís080 176;www.planetaterra.pt; Praça General Domingues 14; d€30) e Melo 15;mains€7) e Melo Indian andThaidishes. and-spicy withdrawal,thisplacehasdecent owners. runbyEnglish-speaking modation efficiently da Figuerinha dolphins. someof theestuary’s30orsobottlenosesee settle ment. Ontheferry tripacrossyoumay veloped beach, plustheruins of aRoman Across theestuaryat paintings. has arenowned collectionof 16th-century noon &2-5pmTue-Sat) Paula(Rua doBalneãRio Borba;admissionfree; coiled ropes.The motifs andtwisted pillars thatresemble free; ning Portugal’s first Manueline building,thestun- Sights &Activities glass floor. factoryunderits of aRomanfish-preserving 10) .mun-setubal.pt; TravessaFrei Gaspar also a from the 402; PraçadoQuebedo) sound system. the in-your-face pipedmusicover thecity centre packed withshopsandcafés.Pityabout castle withviewsandaneasygoingpedestrian draws are astunningManueline church, a restaurants. Other is famousforitsseafood Unsurprisingly, Portugal’sthird-largest port pop 114,500 SETÚBAL tion inLisbon. doSodrésta- (€1.30, 30minutes), fromCais Trains runfrequently viaEstoril toCascais, &Away There Getting 914 . Tanya’s Palace The municipal Avenida Residencial SAL Good beaches westof towninclude Vertigem Azul Vertigem h Igreja deJesus Igreja

THE ALGARVE THE ALGARVE ( regional tourist office tourist regional % 9am-1pm &2-5pmTue-Sat) Sparkling-clean,well-placedaccom- 265 227685;www.sal.pt,inPortuguese) bus station (accessiblebybusinsummer). Ifyou’re fromhot- suffering

( ( % % isafive-minute walkeast Galeria daPinturaQuinhentista Galeria , justaroundthecorner, (Praça Miguel Bombarda;admission (Praça Miguel

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( 214 846 332; Sebastião Carvalho Carvalho 214 846332;Sebastião 265 238000; www.vertigemazul %

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the standard hotelthe standard clobber. Goforonewith de Pombal12;s/d€45/50; west of town. a lobster dish. momentwith best. Enjoyaspecialseafood [email protected]; LargoJoséAfonso;dm/d €10) ing quiche, nutrissolesandsalads. restaurants healthygrub, includ- withsuitably mains €8) square. a balconyoverlooking theaction-packed ally basicrooms. without attending confession, withmonastic- tochurchthis isaboutasclose you’llget Bocage 48;d€45) Adequate hostel withabuzzyvibe. per adult/tent€3.30/4) Ground Camping Municipal Sleeping &Eating of wine. table & 2-5pmMon-Fri) www.jmf.pt; RuaJosé Augusto Coelho11; tours of spotting excursions. There are free wine-cellar .com; Av Luísa Todi375) local tourist offices havelocal tourist offices timetables. tothe Spanish border; running from Lagos regional capital. and windswept,historic Sagres. Faro isthe of Monchique, thefortifiedvillage of Silves include theforested highlights slopes Algarve you’ll landsolidlyinPortugalonce again. strip, venturethis coast-hugging inlandand somepartsof hasblighted development and year-round sunshine. over- Although with superbbeaches, golf courses sweeping The isholiday-brochureAlgarve heaven THE ALGARVE 45minutesevery (€1.30,15minutes). across theestuarytoTróiaapproximately de Espanha(€3.25,onehour).Ferries shuttle leaveBuses atleasthourlyfromLisbon’sPraça &Away There Getting O Beco Peregrina Pensão BomRegresso Pousada daJuventude Albergaria Solaris Albergaria You can travel the Algarve viatherailline You cantravel theAlgarve Locals rate thisrestaurant asoneof the One of asurprisingthree vegetarian José Maria daFonsecaSuccs José Maria

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the oldest Portuguese producer the oldestPortuguese Overlooking themainsquare,Overlooking 265 230 602; Rua dos Almocreves 74; 265 230602;RuadosAlmocreves Awell-equippedsite 1.5km offers anddolphin- canoe

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265 229812;Praçade 265 522475;campsites ( % lonelyplanet.com h ( 265 534431; %

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chicken, pineappleandmushrooms. with fillingslike Roquefortandhazelnuts or tours €20; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com rice pud. kebabs, porkwithpineappleandrib-sticking strip. Thecentre isapicturesque jumbleof toexplorea goodbase therest of thiscoastal Faro townandmakes isanattractive seaside pop 58,000 FARO lonelyplanet.com bon (€15, fourhours) and frequent to buses willcostabout€12. (€1.35); ataxi the airport,catch bus14or 16tothecentre see national flights; p900 From fordetails. Faro airporthandlesdomesticandinter- &Away There Getting €7) mains €4.50) clean andwellkitted out. extend tothebedrooms,which are spacious, ble afuneralparlour,thesilkflowers donot s/d €30/40; jacaranda-fringed square. the location,withbalconiesoverlooking the floral-and-white décor. Themaindrawcardis Bispo 10;s/d€35/45; groups. low-key accommodationbutoften filledwith Pública1;dm/d€10/22) cia deSegurança Pousada daJuventude Sleeping &Eating Formosa inthe spoilt IlhaDesserta crowdedisun- Less 16 fromthebusstation. de Faro), is6kmsouthwestof town;take bus back cafés.Faro’s beach, The palm-clad Sights &Activities 10pm Mon-Sat) ( tive leaflets.Goonlineat ( República justnorthof town.The the crowdsvisitoutof season. with pretty plazasandchurches. Toavoid pedestrian shoppingstreets, interspersed % % Solid traditional grub is served, including Solidtraditionalgrubisserved, Velha Casa Creperia Pensão Central There are sixdaily express coaches toLis- Pensão Dandy The busandtrainterminals are onAv da 289 391974;Ferreira Neto5;perhr€2.50; 289 803604;RuadaMisericórdia)

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483; gets rave reviews fromreaders. .com; IlhadaTavira; campsitesfor2peopleplustent ing theriver. paint. Frontroomshave balconiesoverlook- www.kitesurfeolis.com) spring. The municipal while restaurants andhotels until take asiesta beach-party it’s laidback vibe;outof season, In summer,thispretty fishing porthasa pop 25,400 LAGOS one hour). Farorun dailybetween andTavira (€2.45, Padinha 24;s/d€40/60) patio. €20/30) 24;s/dwithshared bathroom Almirante CândidodosReis the IlhadaTavira. €8.50) Escola deKitesurf 321 973) walking orbikingtripscall Abilio Casa from thebusstation. Walk the2kmortake the(summeronly)bus to themainlandbyaferry atQuatroÁguas. art galleryandviews. cultural centre witharooftop contemporary h da Galeria the town.Nearby,16th-century h vira’s ruined dia façadeofRenaissance the provides free internet access. town hall office The ecclesiastical historyandseafood. this laid-back town.Tavira is famedforits web of cobbledstreets addtothecharm of Traditionally tiledfaçadesandabackstreet pop 12,500 TAVIRA Lisbon (€18.50,five hours). towns.Fiveother coastal trainsrundailyto Camping deTaviraCamping For abelly-filling mealtry Some 15trainsandatleastsixexpress buses Enjoy pedalpowerwitharented bike from Ilha daTavira One of thetown’s30-pluschurches, the is the most striking in the Algarve. Ta- isthemoststrikinginAlgarve.

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PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Rent windsurfinggear from Rua Francisco Pablos 13;perhr€1.50) Lançarote deFreitas 50;dm/d€16/44) pedestrian street. ing roomswithshared bathroomonabusy €25) 46; ecclesiastical treasures. For horse riding contact For horse ridingcontact offer motorboatjauntstonearbygrottoes. Onthepromenade,fishermenling safaris. 916 Check your emailat 255; Rua25deAbril; a connectingbus. The tale Takeof MoorishAlgarve. atrek tothefairy- This genteel smalltownistheformer capital pop 10,768 SILVES daily toLisbon(€14.50,fourhours). times townsandaroundeight other Algarve deprived Brits. lots more dishesforpoor home-sweet-home kidneypie,stickytoffee puddingand and beef owns of thegransatmarket. foodie Aserious a bottleof thered-chilli wonderfromone piri atasty serves 16;s/d€25/37) 763 361;25deAbril cosy kitchen andgarden. the best;roomsare andairythere’s light a walls. space insummer;it’s200msouthof thetown per adult/tent€3.50/4) ( ( .de) Pinhão east, and 2-5pm Tue-Sun) daSilveira;admission€2; Alberto Mon-Sat). 17;perhr€3; Conselheiro JoaquimMachado while emailingatcool in thecentre of town.Surfafrothy coffee dePombal) 111; www.lagosdigital.com;LargoMarquês % % Piri-Piri Piri-Piri The bestbeach sceneisat h Campismo da Trindade daTrindade Campismo Blue Ocean The Bus and train services departfrequently for Bus andtrainservices Silves is2kmfrom townwith trainstation organises diving,kayakingandsnorkel- . chicken orclams.Ifyou’re afan,pickup 282 792315 €25) 1hrride 282 687596,www.qpahorseriding.com; castle closed Sun&Mon;mains€8) No Patio THE ALGARVE ••Silves THE ALGARVE to thewest. Pousada daJuventude municipal museum ( on thehill. % Praia daLuz houses archaeological findsand houses

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% 245 993886; h 266 557 8pm- 959 231;www.cm-obidos.pt; RuaDireita) gain priceforhomylarge roomsonthemain the seafront. rooms. 10 minutes away. daRainha, (€7.10, twohours) orviaCaldas spoilt-for-choice sandwichselection. colossal formerkitchen. colossal Maria deVitória Maria tomb of Henry the Navigator. to Marvão (€2.65,45minutes). to Marvão deVide(€4.80,20minutes)Castelo andtwo the larger southerlytownof Portalegre to lonelyplanet.com 5pm winter) & unfinishedchapelsadult/child €3.50/2; 5pm winter) ( the immense Alcobaça masterpieces are by.Followthesignsto close technicolour views. with itscluster of fishermen’s cottages and Climb ortake thefunicularto cliff-top mers shouldbeware of dangerous currents. The iscentraltotown. Thebusstation buses. Valado, isconnected toNazarébyfrequent home. for impressive picstowowthefolksback tourists intobuyingtheirwares –handy The localswearnationaldress tolure the beach. sandy andasweeping cellent seafood resort withex- Nazaré isaseagulls-and-sand pop 16,000 NAZARÉ 62; snacks€3) street. At ( rooms behind the church. Rua ArcodaCadeia;d€30) views fromthewalls.The de SantaMaria includethe still worthavisit.Highlights This tinywalledvillage isoverly prettified but pop 600 ÓBIDOS % % There’s direct aweekday busfromLisbon Batalha’s massive Gothic Batalha’s On weekdays only,three runfrom On weekdays buses Two of Portugal’sbig-timearchitectural Beaches The nearest 6kmawayat trainstation, Arty English-speaking 262 505120;adult/child€4.50/2.25; 262 959328;RuaDireita 83-85;d€35) tourist office tourist where, inthecentre right of town,is , datingfrom 1388,ishome tothe datingfrom1178;don’tmiss the Casa dosSabores Casa are themain attractionhere; swim- enjoy homemadedailysoupanda (RuaDireita) Mosteiro de Santa Maria deAlcobaça deSantaMaria Mosteiro

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(St PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL backpackers’ favourite withwallswashedin big, thissite is4kmnorthwestof thecentre. Burgos; campsitesperadult/tent€3.20/2.70) s/d €20/25; Praia deSalgueiros;campsitesperadult/tent€2/2.50) 56; d€35) front. stepsthe steep (orfunicular)fromtheriver hostal aboveancient citywallshigh theriver, this rooms withcarpetingandpalepaintwork; 206; s/d€35/45) shop) window. able andoverlook anenticing flowers. Frontroomsare smallbutcomfort- printsandplastic theme includingumpteen deira 133;s/d€35/45) escuda-era rates. run byanelderly spotlessroomsarebargain, pleasant, these from PraçadaLiberdade. are Take essential. centre. Reservations bus35 tastefully spruced-uphostel 4kmwestof the movijovem.pt; RuaPaulo 551;dm/d€18/42; daGama rooms. primarycolours clean bright andcomfortable Gomes Fernandes 59;s/d/trfrom€13.50/21.50/24; from Jardim daCordoaria. Take bus6fromPraçada Liberdadeorbus54 in summer. is oneof three allget sites packed nearthesea; Salgueiros Campismo Sleeping April/May, andthe worth catching are the 924 Residencial Girassol Residencial Pousada daJuventude Pensão DuasNações Pensão Chique Pensão Astória Pensão SantaLuzia daPrelada Camping lomonte 2-4;meal€60) Casa Mariazinha Casa SPLURGE tions are essential. Neide. This place isanexclusive soreserva- good tolookat,prepared byBrazilianwife Antonio. The foodisdelicious:gourmetand the accompanyingwines–bysommelier withaflourish–andfour coursesserved haselegantolddoubles.Approach via NORTHERN PORTUGAL •• Porto ••Porto PORTUGAL NORTHERN In an evocative location hugging the locationhugging Inanevocative a ) Smileyownerandrefurbished A trampfromthecentre buta Well namedforitssunflower

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222 081616;PraçaGuilherme 222 001 119; Rua da Alegria; 222 001119;RuadaAlegria; 222 001891;RuaSádaBan- Celtic music Celtic ( 228 312616;RuaMontedos % whoisstillcharging 226 177257;porto@ pasteleria inAugust. Basic and Basic festival in i i (cake This A ) ) A the river. theportmadejust across fortasting setting 46) good for a littlelate-night hipswinging. looking theriver. Thecuisineisno-surprises of placewithacandlelitdiningroomover- 133; mains€11) charming multilingual owner. readers; taste andlearnabout portfromthe enjoy afternoon tea. enjoy afternoon Nouveaurelic where powdered ladies Art An extravagant €2.50) Excellent vegetarian buffet andtakeaway. €2.50) Excellentvegetarian Alfarroba Majestic Café (€7.50). withareasonable Portuguese, dailybuffet the such astripe androastkid.Leave roomfor northernspecialities uptasty place serving 100;mains€7.50) Alberto Guevara. décor ranges fromdried vegetarianseveral choices. wacky Delightful the river withdelicious,fillingfood,including mains €7) breaded veal withpilesof riceandchips. but soundbelly-filling fare such assteak or €4.50) Dura Sempre Eating thing works. the bathroomsare oldfashionedbutevery- h from karaoke nights. this placehasanicely low-key ambience,aside h of beer. gluggable atmosphere here forenjoyingtheusualrange 18; Henrique Quintas 220; doPorto Solar doVinho &Clubbing Drinking Bolhão market cheese anddeligoodies. fruitandveggies inseason,plus 8am-1pm Sat)Sells La Maison desPorto La Maison Ryan’s Irish Pub Ryan’s Irish Mexcal Bar DuquePiano Romão Restaurante O Muro Simbiose For asnackorself-catering: This vinothequegets thethumbsupfrom closed Sun) 10pm-4am Tue-Sun) torta de torta Fluorescent crampedtables lighting, Top-notch, well-pricedrestaurant on

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clists anddrivers river-hugging canchoose mostlyfromMarchcruises, toOctober. Cy- other companiesrunone-andtwo-dayriver elty factor ishigh. QE2 hostel islocated inthebowelsof agrandship: [email protected]; GilEannes;dm€11) Pousada daJuventude Sleeping &Eating 2km tothetop. the river. Take thesteps – roughly –orataxi 5pm Oct-Mar) % Coração deJesus Misericórdia gant buildings,includingthe16th-century República, withitsdelicate andele- fountain The statelyheartof thetown isPraçada Sights &Activities da Agonia (see p926 ). gust VianahoststheFestas Senhora daNossa 9am-1pmSat) & 2.30-6pmMon-Fri, RuaHospitalVelho; 822 620;www.rtam.pt; Grande Guerraartery. The the northendof themainAv Combatentes da centre. located at iscloser, Thetrainstation tothetown southwest viaRuadaBandeira ings, superbrestaurants andbeaches. 16th-centurybuild- port townhasgrandiose Thiselegant costumes butisfarfromtwee. thetraditionalembroidereding (andselling) inmak- specialises Portugal’s folkloriccapital pop 36,545 VIANA DOCASTELO (€3) mapisavailable fromPortobookshops. roads alongeitherbank.Adetailed Douro Azul trains continuedailytoPocinho(4½hours). last 50kmclingingtotheriver’s edge; four (€6.75, 2½hours, about 12trainsdaily),the journey fromPortoinlandtoPeso daRégua recommendedPortugal. Highly isthetrain white almondblossom. villages and,inspring,splashesof dazzling terraced hills,punctuated byremote stone reaches, port-winegrapesare grownonsteep the country’sruralheartland.Inupper Portugal’s best-knownriver flowsthrough ALONG THEDOURO Atop Santa LuziaHill,the Atop Santa Arriving bybus,it’sa20-minute walk The DouroRiver isnavigable across right 258 823173;admissionfree; it ain’t, but it’s comfortable andthe nov- itain’t,but it’scomfortable

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PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Praça da República 1) Praça daRepública ascend by funicularrailway (€1). or steps (pilgrimsclimb themontheirknees) from Bragatothesite, where youcanclimb the chapels run frequently andasuperbview.Buses do BomJesus Escadaria the site 5kmfromBraga,isastrikingstairway, plex andtreasury museum. €2; In Braga’scentre isthe Sights &Activities The isfiveThe mainbusstation minutes closer. walk totheoldtownviaRuaAndradoCorvo. it’sa15-minuteArriving atthetrainstation, &Information Orientation tiful square. eyesore inthemiddleof thetown’smostbeau- boutiques. TheonlydownsideistheBigMac streets flanked withclassycafés,shops and the contemporary contrastof pedestrian Lovely Braga’s ecclesiasticalarchitecture has pop 110,000 BRAGA fewerweekdays, atweekends. one hour)andLisbon(€14,5½hours) on Half adozen express coaches gotoPorto(€5, &Away There Getting dishesandsalads. pasta tiredthose of décor hasanexcellentinternational menufor This buzzyrestaurant withitsred-and-wicker spot intown. makesauces this €7) Nip across tothe a reasonable dailymenuof solidlocaldishes. wallsand This isasnugplacewithhalf-tiled first nightclub. that dates from the1960s,whenitwasViana’s chintzycomfortable roomsandasunken bar entes daGGuerra215;s/d€35/45) spotless roomsare pretty slickfortheprice. cobbled restaurant-flanked sidestreet; the 34-36; s/d€25/35) 926 Wood-fired pizzaandinnovative pasta Zip Dolce Vita A Gruta Pensão Verde Minho At BomJesus doMonte, ahilltop pilgrimage Residencial Viana Mar Viana Residencial h tourist office tourist

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rooms; check themoutbefore youcheck in. withOlympic-sizedbath- floral andseveral A varietyof roomsincludingthedowdy, heads atthisatmospheric stodgy, mains. soups are better thanthebellyfilling,but restaurant withjusttwodailymenus.The de Albuquerque29;mains€4.50) and allkindsof sugarytreats. room, butgoodforburgers, pizza,sandwiches About asatmosphericarailwaywaiting Ruby Eating &Drinking 609 028;Av daLiberdade738;s/dinclbreakfast €30/40; a makeover sovisit soon. vintage feel –andowners. There are plansfor €25/35) from thecentre. bland butlively hostel isa10-minute walk 6;dm/d€10/27) movijovem.pt; RuadeSantaMargarida Pousada daJuventude Sleeping dukes of Bragança. towncentremedieval andapalaceof the the cradleof nation, witha thePortuguese standing stones. standing histor_ically withdolmens, stonecirclesand daPeneda.around Serra It’salsofascinating king appealwith its wildernorthernregion Portugal’s happy campers andhastrek- This stunningnationalparkispopularwith PARQUE NATURAL DAPENEDA-GERÊS and Lisbon(€14.50,five hours). 1½ hours), Guimaraes(€2.45,40minutes) linkBragatoPorto(€4.50, Daily busservices daily connectionsnorthtoVianado Castelo. hours) andPorto(€2,1¾hours), andthere are Lisbon (€15,five hours), Coimbra(€10,2¼ Intercidade trainsarrive twicedailyfrom &Away There Getting students. scruffy effortlessly tinho) roast lambwithchestnuts. side street. Dishes include arecommended €7) Gosto Superior Avenida Grande Residência Francfort Hotel It’s aneasydaytripto Adega Pregão A Brazileira Earthy local with outdoor tables onascenic localwithoutdoortables Earthy

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( % are government-run formercas- 218 442001; www.pousadas.pt)

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PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Av Ministro Duarte Pacheco)Av Duarte Ministro 805; RuaEugéniodeCastro352) Marques deAbrantes123); Marques Liberdade 196); Liberdade 200,Lisbon) Saturday association. João IV341); Salitre 1); they’re generallyclosedonSundayorMonday andSaturday;hoursvary to 3amor4amonFriday à Estrela 1,Lisbon) de Santa Maria 1) de SantaMaria Spain Ireland Canada Australia inPortugal Embassies &Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES offices Tourist Shops Restaurants Post offices cafés Internet Bars &Clubs Banks Usual business hours inPortugal: BUSINESS HOURS Peneda-Gerês ( p925 (p913), ). Tavira Coimbra ( (p916), Évora p918 (p914), ) andParque Nacionalda Sagres ( Lagos rafting. Forlocalspecialists,see p913 ), water-skiinging, canoeing, andwhite-water (p925). Gerês Évora ( p916 ) andParque NaturaldaPeneda- Taviratinations; see ( p913 ( ), Setúbal p912 with bike tripsonoffer atmany touristdes- ), all-terrain bicycle)isboominginPortugal, cycling(BTT; Off-road ACTIVITIES Orbitur youth hostelassociation. Movijovem Inatel 928 8.30am to1pmSaturday Mártires da Pátria 38,Lisbon) daPátria Mártires to 10pm smaller townstheycloseforlunchbetween1.30-3pm Water sportsincludesurfing,windsurf- The followingwebsites shouldbeuseful:

Lisbon h h (www.Inatel.pt) Slightlylessswishcamping

PORTUGAL DIRECTORY •• Activities ••Activities DIRECTORY PORTUGAL Lisbon (www.orbitur.pt) campingassociation. Private (Map (Map pp902-3 ;

Lisbon Porto (Map (Map pp906-7 ; Mp pp902-3; (Map 9am to 7pm Monday to Friday; 9amto1pm 9am to7pmMondayFriday; 8.30am to3pmMondayFriday (Map (Map pp906-7 ; Vila Real deSantoAntónio (www.pousadasjuventude.pt) Portugal’s (www.pousadasjuventude.pt) Portugal’s h (Map (Map pp902-3 ;

h (Map (Map p920 ; h Mp pp902-3; (Map Faro

h h 8.30am to 6.30pm Monday to Friday, 8.30am to6.30pmMondayFriday, lunch noonto2.30pm,dinner7pm 8pm tomidnightMondayThursday, ( % 10am to10pm;hoursvary 9am to7pmMondaySaturday;in % 289 521120;RuaFrei Lourenço % % Porto % 213 929440;RuadaImprensa % % 213 810210;Campodos 213 101500;Av da % bicyclete tudoterrano, 225 101685;RuadeDom Mp p920; (Map 213 472792;Ruado 226 939292;Cal 213 164600;Av da ( % 281 544888; % 226 094 ć ada a

ters forNewZealand. 7)TheUKconsulatealsooverseesconsularmat- Maurício 3072); Washington DC20008) Ont K1YOB8) Bernardo 33); Berlin 10117) Armadas, Lisbon) the streets ofLisbonon13June. 2606) Canberra ACT The Hague2518) Madrid) 33 Garfield St,Parnell, Auckland 33 Garfield USA UK Netherlands Spain New Zealand Ireland Germany France Canada Australia Abroad Embassies&Consulates Portuguese USA UK Netherlands Carnival Shrove Tuesday Shrove Carnival New Year’s Day HOLIDAYS daAgonia Festas daNossaSenhora Festas deSãoJoão Festa doSantoAntónio singing anddancing. Fair,hosts theNationalAgricultural withbullfighting,folk Feira NacionaldaAgricultura dance, andregional handicrafts. of theCrossesisknownforprocessions,folkmusicand Festas dasCruzes penitents carryingtorches. processions,includingEcceHomo,withbarefoot colourful Holy WeekFestival FESTIVALS &EVENTS for folk arts, paradesandfireworks. for folkarts, nearest to20August, andisfamed including theweekend FestivalCastelo’s OurLadyofSuffering runsforthree days, Dublin 18) John’s Festival, from16to24June. SW1X 8PP) Reboleira 7) Reboleira Av InfanteSanto43);

( Lisbon ( pp902-3; (Map % % ( Portimão ( % ( ( 0207-235 5331;11BelgraveSq,London % Mp pp902-3; (Map % % 202-328 8610; 2125 Kalorama Rd NW, 202-328 8610;2125Kalorama ( ( % % 915 617800;CalleCastello128,28006 01 47273529;3RuedeNoisiel,75116Paris) Porto 012-894 46;KnocksinnaHouse,Foxrock, 613-7290 883;645IslandPark Dr,Ottawa Lisbon ( (

( % 030-590 063500;Zimmerstrasse56, 02-6290 1733; 23 Culgoa Circuit, O’Malley, 02-6290 1733;23CulgoaCircuit,O’Malley, % % 1January ( 070-363 0217;Bazarstraat21, % % 282 417800;LargoFranciscoa Held in Barcelos in May, theFestivalHeld inBarcelosMay, 09-309 1454;POBox305, Porto Mp pp902-3; (Map Porto’s bigstreet bashistheSt Porto’s Easter weekinBragafeatures 226 184789;Av daBoavista 217 273300;Av dasForças % ( TheFestival ofStAnthonyfills % February/March 213 924000;RuadeSão ) 222 080061;Ruada InJuneSantarém % lonelyplanet.com 213 914900; Viana do Portugal’s phonenumbers. Portugal’s ence fromSpainin1640) National Day Corpus Christi Labour Day Day Liberty andthefollowingSaturday Good Friday lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake from postofficeoralternatively fromany over canbebought Stamps thecounter POST 10%. Taxi drivers are generally nottipped. cautious. theirownrates andcommission,set sobe andbureauxBanks dechange are free to MONEY Yellow PagesPortugal’s Tourism Portugal RESOURCES INTERNET Conception Immaculate Independence Day All Saints’Day Day Republic Feast oftheAssumption official tourism site. official tourism If you are satisfied with the service, tip 5% to tip5%to If youare withtheservice, satisfied 25 April (commemoratingthe1975revolution) 25April 1May 10June 5October May/June (the ninth Thursday after Easter) (theninthThursdayafter May/June 1November PORTUGAL DIRECTORY ••InternetResources DIRECTORY PORTUGAL (www.portugal.org) Portugal’s Portugal’s (www.portugal.org) 1December(celebratingindepend- 8December 15August (www.paginasamarelas.pt) March/April dial information. out thewww.travisa.com website formore Citizensofvisa. othercountriesshouldcheck withouta for upto90daysinanyhalf-year andtheUSAcanstay NewZealand Canada, indefinitely.may stay Citizensof Australia, or identitycardforentrytoPortugal,and onlyavalidpassportEU nationalsneed VISAS tions of €5and€10. newsagents andtobacconists indenomina- atpostoffices, booth. Theycanbepurchased cheapest wayof callingfromatelephone quiries dial inthecountry.Forinternational in- else Lisbon andPorto,thefirst three anywhere the first twobeingthearea codeinoraround phonenumbers havePortuguese ninedigits, country code( national accesscode( To callPortugalfromabroad, calltheinter- TELEPHONE –Selos) Portugal automatic dispensingmachine Phonecards are themostreliable andthe % 120. % % 179, forreverse-charge calls . 351), thenthenumber. All % 00), thenPortugal’s (Correio de

929 PORTUGAL PORTUGAL