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Le Nord Du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal Les Points

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Le Nord Du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal Les Points Le Nord du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal PAK 203 • Du 2 au 23 juillet 2020 • 22 jours avec Gérard Rovillé Entre Asie centrale turcophone, mondes indien et iranien, Les points forts s’étend un ensemble de montagnes et de vallées, où se rejoignent l’Himalaya (la Maison des neiges), le Karakoram (les Rochers noirs), l’Hindou Kouch (le Tueur d’Hindous – par • Les paysages tout au long du l’altitude), les Pamirs (les Hautes Plaines), le Kunlun (la Tête) et voyage les Tien Shan (Monts Célestes). Les sommets y dépassent souvent 6 000 m et encadrent des vallées profondes, arides, • Takht-i-Bahi et la vallée de Swat, parsemées d’oasis. Tirich Mir (7 708 m), Rakaposhi (7 788 m), hauts lieux du Gandhara Haramosh (7 397 m), Nanga Parbat (8 125 m) sont quelques-uns de ces sommets qui jalonnent l’itinéraire. En • La vallée de Chitral dominée par le juillet, au col de Shandur, qui, à 3 730 m d’altitude, sépare les Tirich Mir (7 710 m) vallées de Chitral et de Gilgit, a lieu le Championnat de polo le plus haut du monde dans un cadre de montagnes magnifiques. • Le championnat de polo à cheval au Assister à quelques matches de ce championnat traditionnel col de Shandur (3 730 m) sera l’occasion de visiter plusieurs vallées de ces régions du Nord-Pakistan. Culture bouddhiste à Takht-i-Bahi et Swat, • Les vallées verdoyantes de autour de Gilgit, de Hunza et de Chilas ; palais d’architecture l’Hindou-Kouch de Yasin et Ishkoman cachemiro-tibétaine à Hunza ; paysages époustouflants particulièrement vers Chitral et dans les vallées de Gojal et de • La vallée de Hunza et son Shimshal ; prairies d’edelweiss au col de Babusar ; découverte architecture cachemiro-tibétaine des contreforts de l’Hindou Koush dans les vallées de Yasin et Ishkoman... Un périple pour passionné(e)s de paysages de • Les gorges de la vallée de Shimshal montagne, de cultures complexes et métissées, pour qui l’intérêt du voyage prime sur le confort des routes et pistes et • Les sites de pétroglyphes de Chilas • Le passage du col du Babusar Clio le 10/05/2020 1 Le Nord du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal - PAK 203 Bon à savoir Malgré quelques améliorations au cours Programme du voyage des dernières années, l’hébergement sera généralement assez simple ; au col de Shandur, lors du championnat de polo, J 1 - Jeudi 2 juillet 2020 Paris – Islamabad l’hébergement sera Envol pour Islamabad (avec escale). Nuit en vol. sous tentes, seule possibilité locale. Les chambres individuelles J 2 - Vendredi 3 juillet 2020 Islamabad ne pourront pas être Arrivée dans la nuit à Islamabad, formalités, accueil et transfert à garanties à chaque l’hôtel. Fin de matinée libre. Déjeuner à l'hôtel. étape du voyage. Une tenue correcte sera demandée pour les Dans l’après-midi, tour de ville et visite de la mosquée Faisal à hommes comme pour l’architecture résolument moderne, joliment située au pied du plateau les femmes (ni short, ni bermuda, ni débardeur, de Potwar. Arrêt ensuite au cœur d’un quartier d’ateliers pratiquant foulard pour les un art résolument populaire … femmes, chapeau pour les hommes pour les visites de mosquées et Dîner à l’hôtel. Nuit à Islamabad. mausolées). Les altitudes au cours du voyage sont comprises J 3 - Samedi 4 juillet 2020 Takht-i-Bahi – Saidu Sharif entre 800 m et 4 200 Départ le matin pour la vallée de Swat. m, le plus souvent au-dessus de 2 000 m ; sans être sportif, ce périple nécessite Arrêt en cours de route à Takht-i-Bahi, à proximité de Mardan, pour toutefois une bonne visiter les ruines du grand monastère bouddhiste de Takht-i-Bahi forme physique. Tout (Unesco), témoignage de l’importance du Gandhara dans le au long de l’itinéraire, développement de l’art et de l’architecture gréco-bouddhique au début les routes sont sujettes de notre ère. à des conditions géographiques, géologiques et Déjeuner en restaurant local et continuation vers Saidu Sharif. climatiques qui peuvent entraîner des modifications de Après le passage du col de Malakand, haut lieu de la résistance programme impromptues. De pathane aux Britanniques au XIXe siècle, arrêts aux ruines du stupa même, la situation et du Bouddha rupestre de Shindergarh, puis aux pétroglyphes socio-politique locale, préhistoriques de Gogdara et enfin à Udegram, où subsistent les ruines calme lors de la mise d'une ville commerçante détruite par Alexandre le Grand. au point de ce circuit, peut obliger votre conférencier, en Dîner à l’hôtel. Nuit à Saidu Sharif. relation avec les agences et les autorités locales, à J 4 - Dimanche 5 juillet 2020 Saidu Sharif modifier les étapes ou le circuit. Pour l’excursion à Shimshal, il est préférable de ne pas avoir trop le vertige en voiture. Clio le 10/05/2020 2 Le Nord du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal - PAK 203 stupa de Butkara et les résultats de fouilles qui sont rassemblés dans un intéressant petit musée. Alors connue sous le nom de Uddiyana, elle semble avoir été le lieu de naissance de Padmasambhava, le propagateur du bouddhisme au Tibet. Aujourd’hui, la vallée est un important foyer de culture pachtoune. Après le déjeuner, excursion vers la haute vallée, jusqu’au village de Bahreïn. Dîner à l’hôtel. nuit à Saidu Sharif. J 5 - Lundi 6 juillet 2020 Saidu Sharif – Chitral Départ matinal en direction de Dir et du col de Lowari (3 118 m), la porte de Chitral et le plus bas des cols pour accéder à cette vallée, bloqué malgré tout de six à sept mois par an par la neige, ce qui a conduit au perçage d’un tunnel qui permet d’éviter les « quarante épingles à cheveux » des hauts versants menant au col. Descente dans la belle vallée de Ashret, où les quelques milliers d’habitants parlent le Palula, avant d’atteindre, vers Mikhani, la vallée de la Kunar (également appelée Chitral). Traversée de Gaireth, Drosh et Ayun avant d’arriver à Chitral, au cœur du pays Kho. Déjeuner en cours de route en restaurant local. Promenade dans le bazar en arrivant à Chitral (1 490 m). Dîner à l’hôtel. Nuit à Chitral. J 6 - Mardi 7 juillet 2020 Chitral – Mastuj (2 360 m) Matinée consacrée à la découverte de cette ville dont le développement au cours des quatre dernières décennies la fait dépasser 50.000 habitants. La vallée fut le théâtre d’intenses rivalités stratégiques au cours du VIIIe siècle, lors des invasions tibétaines, rivaux des Chinois pour le contrôle des vallées de l’actuel Nord-Pakistan. Tibétains et Chinois furent repoussés par une armée arabe venue du Badakhchan ce qui entraîna l’islamisation de la vallée ouverte, par la Kunar, sur le bassin de la Kabul. Deux siècles plus tard elle fut envahi par les Kalasha (un peuple indo-aryen) qui luttèrent contre l’islam pendant près de deux siècles avant d’être à leur tour vaincus par la dynastie des Rai (1320-1560) qui ré-islamisa la vallée et Clio le 10/05/2020 3 Le Nord du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal - PAK 203 cantonna les Kalasha dans trois vallées refuge. La dernière dynastie des Mehtar Kator (1595-1969) se prétendait d’origine timouride mais, comme les Rai, elle régna sur une région habitée majoritairement par des Kho, un peuple darde (indo-aryen) aux origines mal connues. Visite du petit musée local, de la mosquée Shahi, construite en style néo-moghol en 1924, du Fort des Mehtar (fin XVIe siècle, visite extérieure seulement) et, si la météo le permet, montée en jeep au Palais d’été (2 700 m) d’où la vue est magnifique sur le Tirich Mir, point culminant de l’Hindu-Kush qui domine la ville de ses 7 708 m et sur le Buni Zom (6 551 m). Après le déjeuner, départ pour Mastuj en remontant la haute vallée de la Kunar nommée ici Mastuj. La route suit la vallée en passant entre le Tirich Mir et le Buni Zom. La petite ville de Mastuj se situe à la confluence des vallées de Turikho et de Yarkhun ; un fort y fut construit mais la majorité des bâtiments historiques ont été détruits et les murs protègent actuellement quelques bungalows touristiques. Mastuj fut une étape caravanière entre les Pamirs et le Kabulistan et aurait pu être, au milieu du Ier millénaire de notre ère, la capitale du petit Bolor (d’après des annales chinoises). Dîner à l’hôtel. Nuit à Mastuj. J 7 - Mercredi 8 juillet 2020 Mastuj – Col de Shandur (3 730 m) Départ matinal pour Shandur. A partir de Mastuj la route monte vers Laspur et le col de Shandur, long col qui sépare les vallées de Chitral et de Gilgit et les provinces du Khyber Pakhtunkhwa et de Gilgit-Baltistan. Arrêt au col où, à proximité du lac d’altitude, dans un cadre de haute montagne, se déroule le Championnat annuel de polo de Shandur entre les deux provinces du Nord, le championnat de polo le plus haut du monde. Déjeuner et dîner en campement, nuit sous tente au col de Shandur. J 8 - Jeudi 9 juillet 2020 Col de Shandur – Phander – Gupis Court trajet pour rejoindre Gupis, dans la vallée de Ghizer. Le programme de cette journée sera déterminé par les activités qui auront lieu au col de Shandur. Clio le 10/05/2020 4 Le Nord du Pakistan : Swat, Chitral, Gilgit, Hunza, Shimshal - PAK 203 < Déjeuner pique-nique ou au campement, dîner à l’hôtel et nuit à Gupis. J 9 - Vendredi 10 juillet 2020 Vallée de Yasin – Gahkuch Excursion de la journée dans la belle vallée de Yasin qui fut aussi, en son temps, un petit royaume convoité pour ses richesses agricoles et pour sa situation de carrefour entre les Pamirs, Chitral et Gilgit.
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