GUESS SAID IN EUROPE DEAL/2 CLOAK TO CLOSE/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • December 18, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Shine of The Times Futurism isn’t just for clothes at the moment — it’s infl uencing accessories, too, in shiny looks with a bit of an edge. Here, from top, Christian Louboutin’s patent leather clutch, Tod’s leather bag, Jil Sander’s leather bag and Laurence Dacade’s leather shoe.

Stars on the Wane: Celebrity Fashion Lines Losing Their Mojo By Julee Greenberg Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé Knowles Olsen have everything from shakeout is looming in the and Gwen Stefani were among sportswear to area rugs; Mandy Acelebrity designer world. the first few, but in no time, Moore has T-shirts; Hilary Duff A few years ago, the fashion everyone from A- to Z-listers has sportswear and accessories; industry saw an explosion of music were turning themselves into Jaime Pressly recently introduced and Hollywood stars who suddenly clothing and beauty brands. a contemporary sportswear decided to become designers. Today, Mary-Kate and Ashley See Fashion, Page 6 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Guess Said in Europe Deal By Lisa Lockwood Focus Pull SpA, based in Bologna, Italy, cur- WWDMONDAY rently does about $50 million in sales. Sources said Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear n a move to substantially expand its business over- the business is on track to generate between $200 Iseas, Guess Inc. is buying the controlling interest million and $300 million within three to fi ve years. in Focus Pull SpA, which holds the license for the There are 18 Guess by Marciano stores in Europe, GENERAL Guess by Marciano contemporary line in Europe, the the Middle East and Asia, and plans call for open- When it comes to celebrity-branded lines, some clear winners and los- Middle East and Asia, according to industry sources. ing 30 more next year and 40 to 45 stores in 2008. 1 ers have emerged. The deal is expected to be announced this week. Paul Marciano, co-chairman and co-chief ex- Guess Inc. is reportedly buying controlling interest in Focus Pull SpA, its In January 2005, Guess acquired its European ecutive offi cer of Guess, could not be reached for 2 Bologna, Italy- based contemporary licensee. jeanswear business, which gave it a signifi cant comment Friday. platform from which to expand its business on the Guess by Marciano is a women’s contemporary EYE: The 2006 social season wound down Thursday at the Guggenheim Continent. line of woven and knit tops, dresses, skirts, pants 4 Artist’s Ball and tenor Antonello Palombi overcomes a rough start in “Aida.” At Guess Inc., the total European business gen- and outerwear, as well as tailored suiting for men. Retail prices for women’s apparel fell 0.4 percent in November as prices erates $36 million in earnings and $185.3 million The line is developed in Europe by Focus, which 9 on all goods held steady. in revenues. has been a Guess licensee for the past nine years. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 13-15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Cloak Designs Planning to Shutter WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. NEW YORK — Alexandre Plokhov wasn’t intending to go ship on Greene Street here, VOLUME 192, NO. 127. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three Plokhov plans to close his six- forward with his capsule mens- which will also carry the fi nal additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. year-old business, Cloak Designs wear collection for Uniqlo ei- spring 2007 collection. The store PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: LLC, due to partnership issues. ther. He declined to reveal how was opened as a joint venture S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David The men’s wear company much volume Cloak generates. with specialty retailer Opening Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- will shutter after it completes Known for its elegant hand- Ceremony. Humberto Leon, co- dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine production and shipment of its tailoring, dark colors and mili- owner of Opening Ceremony, Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. spring 2007 collection. tary-style detailing, Cloak has be- who along with his partner, 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Plokhov couldn’t be reached come a favorite men’s wear brand Carol Lim, are partners in the Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS for comment Sunday, but said among rock stars and others. The Cloak store, couldn’t be reached CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR in a statement, “I am extremely line has also developed a female for comment Sunday. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four proud of all the accomplishments fan base, as women buy Plokhov’s Designed by Plokhov and Leon, weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. our collective of like-minded chunky sweaters and drainpipe the store’s interior has the feel of Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. individuals has managed to trousers. In an interview in 2005, an English gentleman’s club. It of- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, achieve and would like to thank Plokhov told WWD, “Women buy fers a bespoke service as well as and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions all of our supporters through the my clothes. I would love to design limited-edition pieces. and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make years. Cloak had a good run and women’s wear one day, but I want Having previously worked at our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would I had a blast doing it.” to concentrate on men’s now.” Ralph Rucci and as a pattern interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise The Russian-born designer, Cloak sells to stores such maker at Marc Jacobs, Plokhov us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. 40, was nominated for the 2006 as Barneys New York here, in set off on his own in 2000. He was WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- CFDA Menswear Designer of the Los Angeles and Boston; Fred followed there by Robert Geller, ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Year award, and received the Segal in Santa Monica, Calif.; who became his creative and OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED 2005 CFDA Swarovski Perry Ellis Colette in Paris; Holt Renfrew business partner. The two de- Award for Menswear. In 2004, in Toronto; Camoufl age in New signed four collections together Plokhov tied for second place York; Arrive in Miami; Harvey before parting ways three years TUESDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Nichols in London and Hong ago, and Geller retained a 50 Producer Price Index for November. Foundation Fund Award. Kong, in addition to many stores percent interest in the company. Christopher & Banks Corp. reports third-quarter A spokesman for Plokhov throughout Japan. Geller went on to design a wom- sales and earnings. said the designer’s plans are un- In September, 2005, Cloak en’s wear line called Harald. known at this time. He said that opened a 1,000-square foot fl ag- — L.L. WEDNESDAY: Nike Inc. reports second-quarter sales and earnings.

THURSDAY: The U.S. Commerce Department releases Fifth Avenue Protest Affects Holiday Shopping the third-quarter Gross Domestic Product report. Rite Aid Corp. reports third-quarter sales and earn- By Julee Greenberg hour and I see that it did disrupt Marie Fischer, a shopper at ings. business for about one and a Bergdorf visiting from her home

NEW YORK — Thousands of half hours,” said Ed Bucciarelli, in Switzerland, said she came to COMING THIS WEEK FRIDAY: Hong Kong Mega Showcase (through Dec. 26). marchers protesting the fatal president and chief executive of- town to visit her daughter before police shooting of an unarmed fi cer at Henri Bendel, who was at Christmas, hoping to get things black man crowded Fifth the store on Saturday. “It was, of done over the weekend. Avenue during one of the busi- course, a very important one and “On Saturday, I went down- est shopping weekends of the a half hours, but it certainly could town, even though I had origi- In Brief year on Saturday, dampening have been much worse. It was very nally planned to shop uptown,” retail sales. quiet in the store, but we were she said Sunday. “There was no ● The protest, led by Rev. running ahead of plan all week, so way I was shopping on Fifth with UNILEVER SWITCH: Michael Treschow, Swedish chairman Al Sharpton, was dubbed, we were lucky that it didn’t com- a protest going on. I saw it on the of mobile phone maker Ericsson, is expected to be named the “Shopping for Justice.” Sean pletely ruin our business.” news and it looked like a mess.” new chairman of Unilever, according to published reports over Bell was shot and killed last Just down the avenue at Saks “It wasn’t busy at all while the weekend. Treschow would replace Antony Burgmans, who month by New York City police Fifth Avenue, sales associates had the protest was happening,” is expected to step down in May. Treschow, who is also head of on his wedding day. Prosecutors mixed reviews about business. said a salesman at Takashimaya. the Confederation of Swedish Enterprise, would be confi rmed are investigating the shooting. “It was like New Years Eve “I went on my lunch break and early in 2007, according to reports. The demonstration, which in here it was so busy,” said one it was impossible to get back ● began at noon on 59th Street main fl oor saleswoman. “I would across the street to the store, so COSTUME INSTITUTE EXECUTIVE: Nancy Aronson Chilton and Fifth Avenue and ended at say we were quite busy.” I could understand why people has joined the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute 34th Street and Seventh Avenue Another saleswoman on the wouldn’t want to be shopping. as senior press officer. She replaces Bernice Kwok-Gabel, who about an hour later, chased main fl oor disagreed. But it did pick up later in the joined Hermès. Aronson Chilton has been a public relations con- many shoppers away as they “It was really slow, which is day. We got pretty busy later in sultant and writer since 1995. Before that she spent seven years at had diffi culty working their way strange for a Saturday, no matter the afternoon.” Polo Ralph Lauren, working on domestic and international pub- through the crowd of protesters. what’s going on outside,” she said. Meanwhile, on Sunday, an- licity. At the Met, Aronson Chilton’s duties will include oversee- “We track our numbers every “It’s also the holidays, so I would other protest was happening in ing public relations for exhibitions and the Costume Institute’s think that people would have no SoHo, in front of the Yellow Fat annual gala benefit. She will report to Elyse Topalian, deputy choice but to go shopping.” Bastard store at 478 Broadway. vice president and chief communications officer of the Met. At Brooks Brothers, a sales- About 100 people, all family IN FOND MEMORY OF ● woman said that the store was members of retail workers on CHANEL TAPS GROSGOGEAT: Chanel Inc. has named Laurent CASEY BUSH busy all day. the Lower East Side, came out Grosgogeat as senior vice president of its watch and fi ne jew- - A True Hat Lover - “We were not affected at all,” to fi ght for better working condi- elry division. Grosgogeat, who succeeds Marc Hruschka, starts she said. “We were consistently tions, higher pay and benefi ts. today and reports to Barbara Cirkva, division president of fash-  selling.” The organization claims that ion, watches and fi ne jewelry. Grosgogeat was most recently A sales associate at Bergdorf primarily young Latino, Asian, deputy general manager of Cartier Italy, leading the retail net- We will miss her exuberance, enthusiasm Goodman said that Sunday was African and West Indian New work, and before that was managing director of Cartier Korea. And tireless work as the a slower day than Saturday. Yorkers and immigrants, who Earlier, he was product manager of leather goods and accesso- Headwear Information Bureau “It was very busy in here, be- participated in the rally, are ries for LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in Paris. At Chanel, lieve it or not,” she said. “A lot of being mistreated by their em- Grosgogeat is responsible for the fi ne jewelry and watch divi- ALL OF US AT PATRICIA UNDERWOOD people are traveling next week ployers, which include stores sions in the U.S. mainland, Hawaii and Guam. He will also lead  so they have to get their shop- like Yellow Rat Bastard, David the marketing strategy for the category. ping done now no matter what.” Z and Uniqlo. Belts Cold-Weather Accessories Fashion Jewelry Fine Jewelry Gift Items Gloves Handbags Hats & Hair Accessories Luggage & Travel Scarves & Wraps Sunglasses Wallets Watches

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ACCESSORIES AT THE HILTON February 13 – 16, 2007 Tuesday through Friday Las Vegas Convention Center and Las Vegas Hilton www.MAGIConline.com 4 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Roberta Julie Atlas Muz Armani in Armani Privé with Mary J. Blige in Giorgio Armani.

The dinner scene at the Guggenheim. Bubblicious Stilted performers. Kim Cattrall NEW YORK — The 2006 social season wound toward in Giorgio the home stretch Thursday evening at the Guggenheim Armani. Artist’s Ball honoring Pipilotti Rist. There were a slew of R&B divas, celebs, sample-size socials (all decked out in Armani, the evening’s sponsor), a nearly naked performance artist (in a bubble, no less) and an army of eerie dancers on stilts. “I think they’re aliens,” said Robert Burke. “And I’m very inspired for my next Halloween costume.” “Did you see the mime?” asked Susanne Bartsch, who coordinated the entertainment. “His performance was beautiful. Very Leigh Bowery. I found him in London. He’s updating the mime business.” Ciara in Also gadding about were Mary Giorgio J. Blige, Ciara and Kim Cattrall, Marielle Armani with who was enthralled with the nudie show. Safra in Eugenia Silva “Wonderful,” Cattrall called out to the girl, Giorgio in Armani whose stage name is Julie Atlas Muz. “She Armani. Privé. stripped and then she popped. It was really quite beautiful. Like a kewpie doll. Or an embryo. Or a girl in a bubble.” The evening began in a more staid fashion with an elegant dinner on the museum’s fi fth fl oor. Roberta Armani entertained the likes of Jada Pinkett Smith, Liam Neeson, John Hickey, Adam Lindemann, Amalia Dayan, Hope Atherton, Eugenia Silva, Ivanka Trump and Marielle Safra at a single long table with minimal black accoutrements, vivid scarlet orchid clusters and a lavish string of antique chandeliers. But it was the social newbies who were garnering the most chatter. “I rode up in the elevator with all your friends,” said one Jada established charity fi xture to a boy about town. Pinkett “I don’t know any of their names though...they’re Smith in all, like, 12.” The better-known were more fi xated Giorgio on getting away for the holidays. “We’re going Armani. to Utah, where I hope we get snowed in,” said Liam Neeson Pinkett Smith, “so that we can fi nally get some with John Hickey.

rest.” STEVE EICHNER GUGGENHEIM PHOTOS BY

MILAN — An understudy taking over from an actor who’s taken ill is mythology or otherwise, were on his side. With each scene, he looked the stuff of legend, but it can’t be easy being one who’s yanked from and sounded more confi dent, striding about a set of Vegas-like TROUBLE IN the wings to replace a star who’s being loudly booed. proportions designed by Franco Zeffi relli. Still, he appeared stunned “It wasn’t the La Scala debut I had imagined,” chuckles tenor when he emerged for his fi nal solo bow, holding his face in his hands THE WINGS Antonello Palombi, who shot to international renown last week after for an extra few moments of disbelief. replacing star Roberto Alagna in the lead role of Radames in “Aida.” Palombi says he was moved by the camaraderie the La Scala cast, Alagna was booed and hissed at by the audience at a Dec. 10 crew and audience showed him, but he is quick to characterize it as performance after he sang the opera’s fi rst aria. The audience reaction a bittersweet experience. He’s disappointed his wife and two young most likely stemmed from incendiary criticisms he’d made on opera daughters in Pisa missed his big break, and he’s equally sorry to see critics and Teatro alla Scala attendees rather than for his performance, the audience criticize Alagna. but it resulted in Alagna storming off stage and being permanently However, Palombi stops there when it comes to talking about his dropped from the production. former colleague, who, since his dramatic La Scala exit, has been making “I said, ‘What the heck is going to happen now? Nothing like this plenty of noise. In recent days, Alagna has told the Italian press that he’s has ever happened before,’” recalls Palombi, who made his debut in a suing La Scala for breach of contract and that he wasn’t feeling well the wrinkled black shirt and black jeans with a head of tousled curls. The day of the performance. He’s also alleged there was a plot to oust him understudy’s entrance prompted a few audience cries of, “Vergogna,” from his role. Despite this fl urry of words and activity, a spokesman for or “For shame,” but Palombi was unfazed. his label, Universal, says Alagna is not giving any more interviews. “I became even louder than they were,” he says. “Right away there But La Scala doesn’t want Alagna back. The theater has cast was a high note and I put my whole soul into it and right after that I well-known Walter Fraccaro for all but two of the remaining “Aida” heard people shh-ing each other.” performances. Palombi will sing Radames on Tuesday and again Palombi, who managed to change into his gilded costume late into on Jan. 3. He also will grace La Scala’s stage in 2008, starring in the fi rst act, says he’s just thankful he chose not to wear his standard Giacomo Puccini’s “Manon Lescaut,” as originally planned. snakeskin cowboy boots to the theater. Palombi remains unfazed by the controversy, instead focusing on But the tenor, 45, is no stranger to serendipity. Before studying Tuesday’s performance. In his view, his unconventional La Scala debut music and embarking on a 10-year career, he worked as a carabiniere was just a warm-up. Antonello Palombi in Florence where, off duty one day, he saved two people from a fi re. “I’m still new to La Scala,” he says. “For me, I’m still thinking of Clearly the gods, whether they be of good fashion sense, Egyptian [Tuesday’s performance] as a debut.” — Amanda Kaiser WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 5 WWD.COM

abhors a vacuum. So who’s swooshing in to fi ll Though the fi rst half of 2006 was it? Among its 700 or so ad pages this year, dire for some men’s titles as automotive FHM carried a fair share of liquor, tobacco, advertising declined and marketers took MEMO PAD consumer electronics and men’s grooming their time fi nalizing ad budgets, the companies, but most of the brands it carried landscape looks calmer for the fi rst few IS HER OWN CHANNEL NEXT?: Anna Wintour clearly is loving were more mass market than luxury. So while months of 2007. Gregory said Maxim’s television at the moment. After her appearance on GQ, Details and Men’s Vogue most likely won’t pages will be up around 10 percent “20/20” with Barbara Walters because she was named one scoop up the ads for Skoal left on the table, compared with last year, while Stuff of the “10 most fascinating people of 2006,” the Vogue Stuff and Maxim could grab some of FHM’s will be slightly up through March since editor in chief now has agreed to open the doors to a consumer electronics or liquor business. But January was soft; February and March documentary about the putting together of the magazine’s the remaining men’s titles already carried will post small gains. Men’s Health’s telephone-book-sized September issue. most brands FHM had — for example, pages for January/February are up 34 But the deal immediately raised questions about how Maxim and Stuff carried grooming products percent to 73 pages, and its March much access the fi lm crew would get to the famously in FHM such as Axe and Gillette. According issue, which is still closing, is on track private Wintour. Asked whether Wintour or the magazine to Stuff publisher John Lumpkin, both books to carry 10 percent more advertising would have any veto power over the footage, a spokesman could benefi t by increasing their paging from than last year. At GQ, ad pages for for Vogue said, “We’re not concerned that something we’re those brands to do bigger customized ad January and February are holding at going to be embarrassed about packages. As for liquor, according to Maxim similar levels to last year’s. Meanwhile, will occur.” group publisher Rob Gregory, “everybody in the broadest Men’s Vogue carried 39 ad pages in its January issue, on In 2000, the British Broadcasting Corp. produced a defi nition in the men’s category would love to carry a few newsstands Dec. 26, its fi rst on an eight-issue schedule for segment on Wintour, with her cooperation, for its “Boss more pages of liquor advertising.” But, he warns, “it won’t 2007. Esquire and Best Life did not return calls by press Women” documentary series. (“You can’t be too thin to last for very long.” time. — S.D.S. survive Nuclear Wintour,” was the headline in the London Independent.) The show was mainly memorable for Wintour’s few appearances; primarily the program had Plum Sykes talking (naturally) about how great her boss was and what “Anna” thought about things.

Anna Wintour The A&E documentary January 7-9, 2007 will be directed by R.J. Cutler, Javits Center, Manhattan who could not be reached for comment, and produced by A&E IndieFilms. Camera Spring/Summer 2007 Collections crews will start fi lming at 1,600 Edited Accessories Vogue’s offi ces at 4 Times Square next month. — Irin Sun-Mon 9-6, Tue 9-5 Carmon Buyer 866-696-6020 ’TOOS’ MOVES: Only weeks Exhibiting 212-710-7408 after Atoosa Rubenstein vacated the halls of the Hearst Tower, www.accessoriestheshow.com the out-there former editor in chief of Seventeen is laying the groundwork for her second act. Rubenstein has incorporated her brand, Big Momma Productions Inc., the catchall for her soon-to-launch businesses, including a consultancy to help companies from airlines to fi nancial services better Also serve young adults. She also Shop... signed up for an American Express corporate card for the Big Momma enterprise. So the name and expense account are set, but what about employees? “Since Big Momma’s open for business, any tech- and digital-savvy Little Mommas who want to help girlkind should look me up on MySpace.com,” responded Rubenstein in her usual restrained manner. “In other words, yes, I’ll be hiring in the new year.” Rubenstein will also start working on writing her book, a memoir- slash-instructive tome, after the holidays. — Stephanie D. Smith

VULTURES CIRCLING: FHM’s AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan and FAME are owned and produced by Business Journals, Inc. closure leaves a gap in the men’s market, and nature 6 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 Fashion World Plays Celebri Continued from page one raised their prices from a $98 jean to a $148 jean, so I Kate Moss due to sign any day. collection, and Pamela Anderson, naturally, is pushing think that’s part of the reason why the line has cooled Elizabeth Arden’s deal with Britney Spears, signed her lingerie label. Even Nikki Sixx from metal band off a bit. But now with Deréon, which I just got in the in March 2004, has yielded two top-fi ve hits: Curious Mötley Crüe and Travis Barker from Blink 182 have stores — that is really blowing out.” Britney Spears and Fantasy Britney Spears. Arden has clothing lines. Red said there is one hoodie in particular from the had teen queen Duff under contract for beauty products Now the winners and losers are starting to emerge. Deréon line that is selling really well. since September, and it signed Catherine Zeta-Jones in The current leaders are clearly Stefani’s L.A.M.B., “Beyoncé wore it in her video,” she said. “I put it February 2002 to be the face of its core Elizabeth Arden Kimora Lee Simmons’ Baby Phat and Rocawear, accord- on the fl oor on Friday [Dec. 1] and today [Dec. 4], I only brand. In addition, NASCAR star Jeff Gordon has been ing to retailers, while high-profi le brands such as JLO have two left.” the face of its Halston Z-14 brand since May 2004, and by Jennifer Lopez, Nicky Hilton and Jessica Simpson Red said she also does well with Stars & Straps and the original celebrity fragrance maven, Elizabeth Taylor, are struggling. Harajuko Lovers, Stefani’s lower-priced line. is also part of the company’s constellation. Meanwhile, the jury remains out on such labels as “These lines do very well; they are really popular Knowles, too, has dabbled in the fragrance world, as House of Deréon by Knowles, Justin Timberlake’s with our customers,” she said. “I think that if the ce- the face of Tommy Hilfi ger’s True Star fragrance. While William Rast, Duff and Sean John, which fl irted with lebrity is cool and their line is edgy, there is no reason her House of Deréon label is still new on the market, the women’s contemporary market, pulled out and now why it wouldn’t do well. With Jessica Simpson’s line, for some may say that one issue they have with it is fi t. plans to reenter ready-to-wear with a junior line. example, it’s just not the kind of thing you would put in In September, Knowles attended an in-store event at One thing is clear, however: the market isn’t what it a cool specialty store.” Macy’s in Chicago to celebrate the launch of the line and once was. Rob Smith, executive vice president and gen- On the contemporary side, Abbey Samet, contempo- the large shop-in-shop for the collection at the store. eral merchandise manager for Macy’s East, said overall, rary market analyst for the Doneger Group, a New York- When a CBS reporter asked the entertainer if there was celebrity fashion lines have slowed down at retail. based buying offi ce, said some brands perform well, indeed a problem with the line’s fi t, she and her mother “JLO has softened a lot,” he said. “I’m not sure it’s be- while others are not living up to the hype. and agent, Tina Knowles, cut the interview short, walk- cause of the product or the fact that Jennifer ing away from the reporter. just isn’t out there as much as she used to be, Chip Rosen, president and general man- but the line isn’t performing like it used to. I JLO by Jennifer Lopez ager at Beyond Productions LLC, the parent think the idea of the celebrity is still huge, it’s has softened at retail. company for the Knowles’ brands, said it was just that when it comes to fashion, no one has a misunderstanding and that the fi t of the col- done it well.” lection is working well. Smith said he has yet to see Deréon, Samet said she thinks that the denim-based Knowles’ junior line that just launched in line William Rast, which just launched last about 500 specialty doors for holiday, but he year, looks good and has potential to grow. did try Chick by Nicky Hilton, which didn’t “I really like the way William Rast looks perform well. and I think there certainly is room for it,” “It just didn’t work, we no longer carry it,” Samet said. “The denim market can use some he said. freshness, so they have a real opportunity.” Smith said that, on the fl ip side, Baby Samet said her overall feeling is that the Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons is doing excep- focus of the celebrity-as-designer has shifted tionally well for Macy’s and, as a result, the to the designer-as-celebrity, which is sparking brand’s fl oor space has greatly expanded. In more interest at retail. the chain’s New York fl agship, Baby Phat has “The newest emerging celebrity is the taken over prime real estate in the former designer, there was Viktor & Rolf for H&M, XOXO space, which has moved to another Behnaz Sarafpour for Target — these things spot in the rear of the junior department. are what customers like to hear about,” she “Baby Phat has bridged from an urban said. “The customer has wised up a lot and, in brand to a fashion brand that offers really turn, it’s become more challenging for a celeb- good product and great fashion pieces that rity to be a designer.” appeal to many customers,” he said. “It’s a Madonna has a deal with H&M this holiday terrifi c brand for us.” season called M by Madonna, which she’s just Part of the problem is that celebrity lines renewed for a second season. That line will be continue to proliferate at a time when con- in stores in March. sumers appear bored with the entire concept. Stefani seems to be the true exception, They rabidly follow celebrities’ personal lives as retailers and analysts agree her L.A.M.B. more than ever; they just don’t want to wear a brand has continued its strength. Hollywood star’s name on their backs. “Gwen has always had that style about her “The mind-set used to be that a musician that gives her line that credibility,” Wood said. was a musician, but when they decided to “She wears her own clothes and she really launch a clothing line, that was big news,” creates what her customers are looking for in explained Michael Wood, vice president and a clothing line.” director of syndicated research at Teenage Retailers selling the L.A.M.B. line seem Research Unlimited, a Northbrook, Ill.-based to agree. Nordstrom has recently opened research fi rm. “Now the novelty has worn off, L.A.M.B. shops within its stores. and it’s just not news anymore.” “L.A.M.B. is one of our strongest vendors That said, Wood believes the in our Savvy department, largely because of idea of the celebrity is still alive Gwen our partnership with Ken Erman, the presi- and well, but perhaps not their Stefani’s dent of SkaGirl [L.A.M.B.’s apparel license],” fashion brands. He said that, L.A.M.B. Ana Swaab, corporate merchandise manager while consumers are still in- brand for women’s contemporary at Nordstrom, told terested in reading about stars’ continues WWD in September. “L.A.M.B. has selective personal lives and what they to perform distribution, and we are proud to be the larg- are wearing, that doesn’t mean well at est fashion retailer carrying the collection. they want to buy a label with a retail. “I’ve heard that Beyoncé’s line “The allure and styling of the fall 2006 line is making celebrity’s name on it. Part of [House of Deréon] is not doing well it one of the most popular and loved collections with our the predicament is that celeb- at all, but L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani is customers. Customers love the design of the collection, rities have no problem putting doing very well,” she said. “The thing including the vibrant graphic prints, as well as classic their names on clothing or ac- about it is that nearly all celebrities and feminine shapes done with a Fifties vintage feel cessories; they just don’t want have stylists that make them look the — all refl ecting Gwen’s own personal style.” to wear it themselves. way they do. It’s very hard to translate While many celebrities are their own marketing ma- “Young people want to wear that look into a product line, which chines, being able to wear their own labels and having what the celebrities wear, not is really what the customer is buying their photos taken wherever they turn, this business the label they have their names into.” also has given some a fair share of drama. Now, Knowles on,” he said. “Today, there are Although fashion lines have seen is facing allegations that she violated a contract related so many ways for fans to connect their ups and downs for celebrities, to the founding of her House of Deréon label. with their favorite celebrities, the beauty business, particularly in Greg Walker, a businessman based in New York, fi led they can log on to their MySpace fragrances, has not seen the same ef- a lawsuit in the Supreme Court in New York this sum- pages online, for example, they fect. Rapper/actress Eve Jeffers is the mer alleging that the pop star and actress neglected to no longer have to buy their fash- latest example. As she works on her pay him money he was owed for helping her fi nd a li- ion brands to be close to them.” fourth album, Jeffers said she is also censing contract and is asking for $1.5 million in damag- Wendy Red, fashion director on the lookout for a fragrance deal, es. The lawsuit was fi led against Knowles and Wear Me at Up Against the Wall, a 25-store junior and young con- while her Fetish clothing line, launched a few years Apparel, which does business as Kids Headquarters. temporary specialty chain based in Washington, said she ago, went out of business. According to court documents, Walker alleged that he carries a few celebrity lines, including House of Deréon The beauty world today is full of celebrities. Coty and Beyoncé and Tina Knowles entered into an agree- and Deréon, William Rast (but only for men) and Stars & is arguably the most entrenched, with Gwen Stefani, ment in August 2003 that Walker would help them fi nd Straps, a line backed by Blink 182’s Barker. Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kimora Lee a licensing opportunity similar to the Sean John line “When House of Deréon launched, I did very well Simmons, David and Victoria Beckham, Mary-Kate established by Sean Combs. Walker’s obligation under with it,” Red said. “The jeans sold out so fast, I couldn’t and Ashley Olsen, Shania Twain and “Desperate the contract was to obtain proposals and bring them get them in the store fast enough. Since then, they’ve Housewives” in its stable — with, as reported, perhaps to Beyoncé Knowles. According to court documents, WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 7 WWD.COM ity Survivor Game Walker facilitated a relationship between Knowles and Wear Me Apparel. Walker received $25,000 from Knowles in July 2004 and an additional $85,000 from Wear Me Apparel between January and June 2004 as part of that contract, according to the lawsuit. The lawsuit asks for $500,000 in damages against Knowles and $1 million against Wear Me Apparel. Executives for Knowles did not comment on the suit, which is still pending. Knowles isn’t the only music star to land in court over a licensed apparel brand this year. Simpson faced allegations that she failed to promote her Princy and JS by Jessica Simpson lines. Tarrant Apparel Group sued Simpson and master license holder Vincent Camuto for $100 million in April. Camuto later fi led a countersuit against Tarrant for $100 million. Those suits are also still pending. But it seems that brands such as these continue on a growth track. Camuto, chief executive offi cer of the Camuto Group, the master license for the Jessica Simpson brands, said he is working to build a lasting brand. He said that, while Simpson’s popularity helps, it’s not just about that. “We are hearing that the product is right on,” he said. “Our retailers are very happy with it.” The company just launched a collection of outerwear Beyoncé and Tina Knowles in the fall for holiday selling, will have eyewear in the spring and, ad campaign for House of Deréon. in 2007, will look for more licensing opportunities in categories like lingerie, swimwear and even stationery. At JLO by Jennifer Lopez, executives are confi dent that one slow season isn’t going to break their growth The Jessica Simpson brand plans. includes bags and shoes, “Our JLO business has been a little soft this season,” but plans are in place for admitted Andrea Scoli, president of Sweetface Fashion expansion next year. Co., the parent company for the JLO by Jennifer Lopez junior brand and Sweetface contemporary label. “But I think that, overall, the junior business has softened.” In 2001, Lopez entered the fashion business with partner Andy Hilfiger and established Sweetface Fashion Co., which now has annual sales of $200 mil- lion and includes JLO by Jennifer Lopez junior sports- wear, outerwear, lingerie, footwear, watches and jew- elry, as well as the Sweetface contemporary collection and four fragrances. Young people want to wear “what the celebrities wear, not the label they have their names on. — Michael Wood, Teenage Research Unlimited” Baby Phat is performing better than Scoli said that, despite the fall in business, the com- ever at Macy’s. pany is poised for growth next year. For the JLO by Jennifer Lopez brand alone, the company will bring in $250 million in sales by the end of this year, she said, and expects 2007 to be even better. Scoli said a great Justin Timberlake with deal of the growth is sure to come from the contempo- friend/business partner rary brand, Sweetface, which is sold at better specialty by around 15 percent. Trace Ayala wearing stores such as Madison in Los Angeles and Intermix in Rocawear, the brand backed by Jay-Z, is also on a William Rast. New York. roll. After the company opened a temporary store in “In contemporary, it’s cooler to be more select with New York last September, the success of it has led it to the distribution,” she said. “Jennifer is such a fashion think more seriously about retail. Now, Jameel Spencer, icon. When she’s in the press, it’s really for her fashion, chief marketing offi cer at the $800 million company, said which is great for the Sweetface brand, since she does it is planning for a retail rollout in 2008. wear it.” “Our men’s business has always been solid, but the Scoli said the company also is focused on interna- women’s is way up this year,” Spencer said. “Our depart- tional expansion, as she plans to pursue more licensing ment store business is up by 50 percent.” opportunities abroad in the next year. Spencer said that, for fall, the company will launch For Sean John, which closed its Sean by Sean Combs Bella Roc, a contemporary brand for women. “Jay has women’s contemporary brand earlier this year, Bob wanted a line like this for a while,” he said. “Without Wichser, ceo, said the women’s business will be back on him, it would not exist.” track next year. The company has signed a deal with G- The Knowleses also are planning for their growing III Apparel Group to design and merchandise a Sean fashion empire, which includes the House of Deréon John young contemporary line, for a fall launch. and Deréon brands. Deréon just launched at retail for “With Sean by Sean Combs, we just realized that the holiday selling and, according to Beyond Productions’ timing wasn’t right and made the decision to exit the Rosen, it is performing very well so far. market,” Wichser said. “But that doesn’t mean it won’t “Beyoncé’s fans have been asking for a line that’s at a be back in the future.” more approachable price point,” Rosen said. “It’s more The deal with G-III, he said, is different. Sean Combs of what they were asking for, so it’s doing well.” for women will be set at a lower price point than the At the time of the launch of the company earlier this contemporary line was, and will be targeted to select year, executives projected making somewhere between specialty and department stores. To test the label, $30 million and $50 million in fi rst-year wholesale vol- Wichser said select stores are selling a test line of out- ume. By the end of next year, Rosen said he projects erwear now, which is selling well. the brand to reach $100 million in wholesale volume. “We are very happy with the way the outwear is sell- He said this growth will be because of the increase in ing,” he said. “We thought there was tremendous poten- product for both lines, with a House of Deréon swim- tial in this market for our brand. We really see it doing wear line launching in February and new licensing op- very well.” portunities coming up for the Deréon brand. Wichser said that, by the end of this year, the Sean “It’s growing fast, but not too fast,” he said. “It’s not John brand will bring in $450 million in retail sales. about how fast or how big we can make this. It’s about

Moving into next year, he expects that number to grow building a brand that will last.” GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY PHAT BABY 8 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Harvey Nichols Broadens De la Renta Show Raises $75K By Olga Zaretskaya “Oscar de la Renta aims his outfi ts for career women, and MOSCOW — Some 150 loyal I am glad to see them here in Oscar de la Renta custom- the Moscow store,” said Boaz Skin Care With Medispa ers came to multibrand spe- Mazor, executive at large at cialty store Aizel here for a de la Renta. “We have stud- By Brid Costello “We’re members of a team to help trunk show last week that ied the Russian market and people improve their aesthetics but generated sales of more especially for it we created LONDON — There’s a doctor in the not to condescend,” he added, noting than $75,000. size 0. Aizel has exclusive house at Harvey Nichols. packages will also be available that The show consisted of rights to sell our clothes in The U.K. department store has include appointments at the store’s 120 looks for spring 2007. Moscow.” teamed up with U.S. plastic surgeon Daniel Hersheson hair salon or over- Aizel Guseinova, owner He said Aziel buys about Barry Cohen to introduce a “medis- night stays in local hotels. of the boutique, who 60 percent of the styles pa” that offers noninvasive medical Cohen said the challenge for medis- also owns such stores as in the collection to carry treatments, dubbed Beyond Spa, in its pas both in the U.S. and U.K. is driv- Aizel for men, two Agent in the store. “We are very Knightsbridge fl agship here. ing footfall. “Putting a medispa where Provocateur units, a Chloé happy with the way things The space, which opened Dec. 8, of- people you want to target are there al- and an Emilio Pucci, ini- are going on in this coun- fers a plethora of treatments, including ready is phenomenal,” he said. “It’s a tially brought de la Renta try,” he added. chemical peels, microdermabrasion, new paradigm.” clothes to Moscow two years Of the sales immediate- laser, intense pulse light therapies, A plasma screen will be in the ago. Last December she ly after the show, $50,000 collagen stimulation and teeth whit- store’s ground-fl oor beauty space to let held the fi rst trunk show for came from a single order ening, as well as Botox, Juvaderm and customers know that medispa services the brand. by one person. The collec- Restylane injections. Guests at the event includ- Boaz Mazor, Aizel Guseinova and tion stayed in Moscow for “The U.K. is about 10 Beyond Spa at Harvey Nichols. ed Tatiana Evtushenkova, Monica Meade, director of Oscar de three days, during which years behind the U.S. the vice president of MTS, la Renta. time clients continued to in terms of demand for one of the main Russian order. The next trunk show aesthetic services,” said cell phone operators, and TV stars Tatiana in Moscow is scheduled for the second Cohen, who is also co- Vedeneeva and Alexandra Vertinskaya. week of March. founder of the Papillon medispa in Rockville, Md., and is behind the pH Advantage cosmeceuticals facial treatment line. “No Andrew Marc Adds to Team, one [here] has done a me- dispa in an upscale retail environment with conse- Expands 7th Ave. Showroom quent footfall.” Cohen added that while TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY the market is in the nascent By Whitney Beckett stages here, it is showing promise. He are available. For those wishing to go said there has been a 35 percent hike a step beyond noninvasive treatments, s part of its plan to grow into a global in elective cosmetic surgery in the U.K. Beyond Spa offers consultations via Alifestyle brand, Andrew Marc has ex- last year, according to statistics from videoconferencing with surgeons both panded its senior management team. The British Association of Aesthetic in the U.S. and U.K. The spa will al- In addition to hiring and promoting Plastic Surgery. Spending on nonsur- ways be staffed by medical person- seven executives, the outerwear and acces- gical cosmetic nel, including sories fi rm has expanded the size of its 570 procedures hit 100 dermatologists, Seventh Avenue showroom by 30 percent to million pounds, or physicians and 200,000 square feet and added new product $195.2 million at BEAUTY BEAT medical aesthe- categories, including handbags, men’s leath- current exchange, ticians. er goods, ladies and men’s rainwear, and — last year, the association said. “There will be highly trained staff debuting in fall 2007 — women’s footwear. Industry sources estimate Beyond and a physician here all the time,” said “We are developing a strong infrastruc- Spa will generate sales of $2 million to Cohen. “Clients can come on a Sunday ture comprising extremely talented, ener- An Andrew Marc handbag. $3 million in its fi rst year, but that fi g- afternoon for Botox or a Restylane in- getic and accomplished professionals,” said ure could ultimately rise to up to $10 jection.” Charles M. Jayson, who joined the company a similar post for nine years. million annually. Cohen said he plans to expand as president and chief executive offi cer in ● Franci Carter as vice president of Cohen said if the space is success- his medispa empire with openings in April. “Together, we will propel the Andrew production. She hails from Jones Apparel ful, it could be rolled out to other Trump casinos in the U.S. He is also Marc business to its potential as a trend- Group, where she oversaw 16 sportswear Harvey Nichols locations. currently completing negotiations right global lifestyle brand.” divisions for nine years. The 1,100-square-foot area, which with MGM City in Las Vegas. Andrew Marc sells products under the ● Jodi Rose as vice president of acces- is located on the fourth fl oor of Harvey Andrew Marc and MARC New York brand sories. Previously, as sales director for Cole Nichols, has five treatment rooms. names and holds licenses with Levi Strauss Haan, she was responsible for the growth of Designed by Aspen Spa Management, Sephora Names Image Director & Co. marketing outerwear under Dockers, the handbag division. the space features a minimalist decor. A PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Levi’s Red Tab and Levi’s Premium brand Andrew Marc also promoted three execu- selection of products, including Cohen’s Vuitton-owned Sephora has appoint- names. The company’s investment part- tives to new or expanded roles: pH Advantage line, are available to buy. ed Natacha Dzikowski as its image ner, GB Merchant Partners, is a division of ● Kathy Glenn to executive vice presi- As part of consultations, clients director in France. Dzikowski re- Gordon Brothers Group. dent of sales. Glenn joined Andrew Marc in are assessed via the Visia Complexion places Natalie Bader-Michel, who, as New posts at the fi rm include: July 2005 and served most recently as senior Analysis System, which involves using reported, left the perfumery chain to ● Michaela Sexton as senior vice presi- vice president of ladies’ sales. ultraviolet photos to compare the con- become president of another LVMH- dent and creative director of design. She ● Robert Nelson to senior vice president dition of the person’s skin to control owned business, Fred Paris SA jew- previously served as design director for of men’s sales from vice president of men’s groups. elry house, on Dec. 1. Dzikowski joins Reaction by Kenneth Cole. sales. A microdermabrasion treatment is Sephora following a long career in the ● Celia Rao Visconti as senior vice presi- ● Camille Williams to vice president of available for 100 pounds, or $195.50; advertising industry, most recently at dent of marketing and communications. She merchandise planning from director of mer- Botox starts at 250 pounds, or $489; the Publicis group. She had been man- comes from Tommy Hilfi ger, where she held chandise planning. Restylane starts at 325 pounds, or aging director of Publicis 133 since $635, for the fi rst milliliter, while laser 2004 and was formerly managing di- hair removal is from 125 pounds, or rector of BETC Luxe. Dzikowski had $244, upward. been an associate manager at Publicis The Beyond Spa concept is meant Conseil in 1996. Prior to that, she was Garfi eldMarks Said Unable to Meet Payroll to appeal to both existing users of advertising director and then commu- cosmetic treatments and those new to nications director at Elle magazine. arfieldMarks LLC, which has put itself Garfi eldMarks’ sales have fallen to less than the scene. Cohen also sees the space Dzikowski began her career in 1989 at Gup for sale, cannot make payroll, ac- half that in recent years, according to indus- as being complementary to the skin Saatchi & Saatchi advertising. cording to sources close to the company. try estimates. care offer available in the department Employees have not been paid in three The potential deal, which sources said store’s Beyond Beauty fl oor. weeks — missing a Dec. 8 payday — and was shaky and which had not been fi nal- “There used to be a big jump from A New Spin on Inner Beauty the apparel fi rm told workers it cannot pay ized as of Friday, follows September’s $12 skin care to surgery,” he said. “But PARIS — French food manufacturer them until the company is acquired, sources million purchase of Harvé Benard Ltd. now, there are many noninvasive pro- Danone is said to have created a yogurt said. by Wellington Capital Group, a New York- cedures that work and are clearly ef- with cosmetic benefits. The product is GarfieldMarks management declined based equity fi rm. Harvé Benard shared fective. We pick up where a tradition- designed to have positive effects on comment. back-offi ce facilities with Garfi eldMarks, al spa facial leaves off.” Housing the skin, such as moisturizing, when con- As reported, LF 1937 Ltd., a division of Li and six members of Benard’s management medispa in a well-known locale will sumed, according to reports. A Danone & Fung, and Rousso Apparel Group, a $200 own GarfieldMarks. Welllington Capital make treatments more accessible to spokeswoman confirmed that the com- million predominantly moderate vendor, passed on buying Garfi eldMarks both in hesitant clients, who may up to now pany is working on an innovative dairy are in negotiations to buy Garfi eldMarks, September and again more recently, accord- have felt intimidated by clinics in the product, called Essensis, due to be which has changed hands three times since ing to Joseph Gabbay, chief executive offi cer city’s medical mecca, Harley Street, launched in early 2007, but declined to it was founded in 1993. After peaking in of Wellington Capital Group. according to Cohen. give more specific information. the Nineties at revenues of $60 million, — W.B. WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Denim Brand Evisu Pushes Growth in U.S. By David Moin second-highest selling denim item. The privately held company generates lthough some consumers are pulling back on pur- about $80 million in volume worldwide, A chasing premium denim, Evisu, a pioneer in the excluding licenses, and is profi table, ac- category with a quirky East-meets-West attitude, is un- cording to its executives. There are 65 deterred. stores in Europe and Asia, primarily. “We’re not a Johnny-come-lately,” Nick Starsmore, In the U.S., a total of 140 doors, includ- chief executive offi cer in the U.S., said of Evisu’s U.S. ing stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, strategy. “For a lot of brands, premium is a new thing. Riccardi in Boston, Lulu in Miami and But we’ve been a niche luxury brand for 20 years and Atrium in New York, carry the label. for us business is good. We are continuing to grow with Some Macy’s and Nordstrom stores premium distribution around the world.” also sell the brand and Barneys New The U.S. holds the most promise for the luxury brand, York sells the kids’ line. However, there founded by Hidehiko Yamane in Osaka and named after remains a significant opportunity to the Japanese folk god of money. Construction has begun sell to other high-end retailers, such as on the fi rst Evisu store in the U.S., a 3,800-square-foot, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and two-level shop at 93 Greene Street in lower Manhattan, Saks Fifth Avenue. which is projected to generate $3 million in sales its The opening of the SoHo fl agship and fi rst year and open around April. other freestanding Evisu stores in the “The plan is to open stores in Las Vegas, Miami, San U.S. is critical to increasing wholesal- Francisco, Dallas, Boston, Atlanta and Chicago,’’ said Eric ing, Starsmore said, for retailers to un- Le Goff, associate director of Cushman & Wakefi eld Inc., derstand the Evisu mystique. It blends Evisu’s real estate adviser. “We want the stores to be close Americana with Eastern influences, to true luxury brands that have a heritage like Evisu.” A rendering of the Evisu store in SoHo. and the stores are a mix of art and irony, In addition, the company is taking back distribution with large portraits, taxidermy and a control from Ben Sherman, a unit of Oxford Industries, lodge-like feeling. The London store, for at the end of next year in an effort to increase U.S. whole- proach. But Starsmore made it clear that the Japanese example, has a marlin suspended from the ceiling. Bears sale sales. It is targeting more department stores, adding brand is not about to shift its lofty price structure or high and crocodiles adorn other stores, and at the SoHo store licenses, including one for watches that will be launched standards for fabrics, washes and tailoring. there will be a stuffed giraffe. “None of the taxidermy is in spring 2008, and has opened offi ces and a showroom in Evisu jeans are handmade, with grainier fi nishes, new,’’ he said. “It’s all antique.” SoHo at 121 Greene Street for a team of fi nancial, logis- clean, streamlined overlocks, reinforced back pockets, The SoHo store will also conduct private screenings tics, design and sales executives which is being formed. embroidery and expensive denim called Selvedge. Prices of Japanese fi lms to help connect with the SoHo commu- Two months ago, a 600-square-foot Evisu shop opened range from $250 for a selvedge denim jeans with an in- nity and will be furnished with mahogany cabinetry and in the American Pie Cie store in Los Angeles, and two novative wash, to a $1,000 tailored hand-dyed number by large 10-foot-by-6-foot portraits by Simon Birch painted weeks ago, the company started e-commerce in the U.S. a Japanese indigo master. There are also wool sportcoats on Selvedge denim. There’s also an Eastern attention to To further elevate the profi le, a runway show is planned with kimono linings for $1,200, bespoke suits priced up to detail, with origami on every package. All stores are lo- for February’s fashion week in New York, and Evisu will $6000, as well as limited-edition items such as the kimono cally fl avored, with the London store displaying a woodsy, be a sponsor at the next Sundance Film Festival in Utah. thread denim jeans designed by Adriano Goldschmied. traditional feeling in sync with its Savile Row neighbors. After a fi ve-year run-up in the U.S., some premium Denim represents about 50 percent of the fi rm’s vol- The SoHo store will be dressed up with U.S. memorabilia, brands are discovering they can’t live by denim alone, ume; tops, 30 percent, and dresses, suits and formal- and further distinguished by a wide range of product. with consumers shifting some spending to lower-priced wear, 15 to 20 percent. There is also kids’ merchandise. “There will be an incredibly high intensity of mer- brands. They will be challenged to bring balance to their Evisu’s top-selling jeans are priced at $340 and are called chandise,” Starsmore said. “That’s unusual for a luxury businesses by adding categories and taking a lifestyle ap- Heritage. The EV Genes jean, priced at $250, are Evisu’s brand.”

HER TIME: Celine, the fashion and accessories house owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Fashion Scoops Vuitton, has time on its side. It just signed a Women’s Apparel Prices Dip worldwide licensing agreement for timepieces with Maxelle SA, a subsidiary of Taramax SA, the maker of Fendi watches for the past 20 years. Celine’s By Evan Clark competition for consumers’ creative director Ivana Omazic will codesign the line with Maxelle, which will produce, market and dollars and imports from low- distribute the range of women’s watches. The collection will be unveiled at the Baselworld Watch and WASHINGTON — Retail prices wage countries. These forces Jewelry show next spring. on women’s apparel fell a sea- have reordered the industry sonally adjusted 0.4 percent in recent years, even as lower MARKS MAKES A MOVE: Will Topshop have a new rival in Britain’s fast-fashion stakes? Industry sources say last month, compared with prices have made it diffi cult to Marks & Spencer, more famous for sensible cotton underwear than cutting-edge design, has approached October — the first November boost already slim profi t mar- Jane Shepherdson, who quit as Topshop’s brand director in October, about a job. Shepherdson was a driving drop since 2003, according gins at stores. force behind Topshop’s transformation into a fashion mecca, bringing in talent such as Celia Birtwell, Sophia to the Labor Department’s Prices on suits and sepa- Kokosalaki and Zandra Rhodes to create special collections for the store. One source said Shepherdson has not Consumer Price Index. rates, which make up 53 per- yet gotten back to Stuart Rose, the chief executive of M&S, about her interest in M&S, and it’s still unclear in “There were more items cent of the women’s index, fell what capacity she would join the company. Shepherdson and Rose have known one another for years and have on sale, and the sale prices 1.7 percent during November worked together before. During the late Nineties, Rose was chief executive of Arcadia Group, Topshop’s parent. were at a bigger discount and were down 1 percent An M&S spokesman declined to comment on the speculation, and Shepherdson could not be reached for than during the last couple compared with a year earlier. comment at press time. of Novembers,” said Jessica Prices on women’s underwear, Penvose, an economist at the nightwear, activewear and ac- DREAMGIRLS: Former “American Idol” and current Golden Globe-nominated “Dreamgirl” Jennifer Hudson Bureau of Labor Statistics. cessories rose 0.2 percent for is just getting used to this whole fashion thing. On Thursday night on the balcony of the Soho Grand The December price cli- month but were down 1.8 per- Hotel’s penthouse, Hudson — the star of the evening’s festivities — got a stumper. “Who am I wearing?” mate may depend on the cent year-over-year. she asked. Her manager: “You know…” J.H.: “Yes…I know…Badgley…?” Badgley Mishka? “Yes! I love strength of holiday sales as re- Overall, prices on all goods it. It’s one of the prettiest dresses I have ever worn. But there’s so much going on, and I’m supposed to tailers seek to lure shoppers and services were flat in fi gure out who I am wearing?” Indeed. Hudson had a big Thursday, between her Golden Globe nomination with markdowns and bigger November after two consecu- announcement and “Today” show appearance in the morning and private screening of “Dreamgirls” and promotions. tive months of 0.5 percent de- party hosted by The Cinema Society and The Wall Street Journal Weekend Edition, held in her honor that “Discounts, discounts, creases. night, which attracted guests such as Martha Stewart, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Francisco discounts. The consumer Economists took heart from Costa, Nicole Miller, Christopher Meloni, Liya Kebede, Julianna Margulies, Rosie Perez, Candace Bushnell and has come to expect that, as the data, especially since ris- André Leon Talley. the season wears on, the ing prices were a major con- discounts will get deeper,” cern a few months ago. ALL FOR A BOX: Brooke de Ocampo and Simon de Pury hosted an intimate luncheon Tuesday at the downtown Marshal Cohen, NPD Group’s Until this summer, the galleries of Phillips de Pury, in advance of the house’s auction the next day of 58 Line Vautrin boxes, which chief industry analyst, said in Federal Reserve had raised ranged in estimates from $2,000 to $18,000. Surrounded by shelves of the exquisite polished bronze and a statement on the research the benchmark federal funds mother-of-pearl pieces, Tory Burch, Marisa Noel Brown, Gigi Mortimer and Ghislaine Maxwell nibbled on lobster, fi rm’s holiday mid-point con- interest rate 17 consecutive oysters and crab claws overfl owing the immense bowls. “I feel like I’m in the South of France,” exclaimed sumer survey. “In fact, 79 per- times, leaving it at 5.25 per- Jennifer Creel, who had rushed down from 57th Street after doing Christmas shopping. Meanwhile, de Ocampo cent of respondents tell us cent in June, in an effort to showed photos of her four-year-old son, Miguel, to Veronica Bulgari. “He doesn’t speak a word of English,” she that they expect to make their tamp down infl ation. said. “I spoke only Italian when I moved here,” said Bulgari. “I was seven.” purchases on sale.” “When the Fed stopped As for the boxes, the auction was a hit: Some went for more than double their estimate, including a mother- Though prices have inched tightening, the market started of-pearl box from the Fifties carved with the image of a boat, which was estimated at $12,000 to $18,000 and up some, 0.3 percent so far this doing better, they started seeing sold for $33,000. year, downward pressure has better trends on infl ation, ener- been the trend for some time. gy prices settled down and, in a BUT THE SPECTATORS LOVED IT: On Thursday, Kelly Killoren Bensimon toasted the beginning of bikini season at Against a year earlier, women’s sense, this news today just vali- the Eres boutique on Madison Avenue and, as the author of the new Assouline tome, “The Bikini Book,” and apparel prices in November dates the market view, which is a former model, Killoren Bensimon surely knows a thing or two about the suits. She said her worst experience slid 0.2 percent and declined 4 [that] interest rates don’t need in a two-piece was when once, while waterskiing, her string bottoms fell off. But it wasn’t an Eres, hastened to percent from fi ve years earlier. to be as high as we thought,” add Killoren Bensimon, who is a keen fan of the fi rm’s swimsuits and has so many, her closet could serve as an Price defl ation is generally said J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. archive for the brand. seen as a by-product of stiff economist James Glassman. 10 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Innerwear Report February Market Sparks Controversy

By Karyn Monget were the ones agreed upon by those major department stores.” Steve Chernoff, IAC vice chairman and chairman of Long Island City, N.Y.-based SCORES OF DISGRUNTLED MANUFACTURERS AND SPECIALTY RETAILERS Rago LLC, said, “What happened was it was decided it was a logistical convenience are unhappy about the timing of the first official February market week here. for manufacturers and retailers, for the people who fi nd it convenient. The specialty The initial idea of combining the traditional January and March venues into one stores or a confl ict with global lingerie business was never taken into consideration blockbuster market has been debated among industry executives for more than a de- in any manner, shape or form.” cade. January was an important edition for warmwear, sleepwear and robes. March From a manufacturer’s perspective, Josie Natori, chairman and ceo of Natori Co., was pivotal for makers of bras and shapewear to preview and said she initially thought that showing her collections at her launch new concepts and product. apartment in Paris would facilitate matters, but changed her The Intimate Apparel Council came up with a compromise mind because it would be a logistical nightmare. that was intended to transform February into a huge venue “I feel this is all so uncoordinated, because we can’t be showing in that would satisfy the needs of the entire innerwear industry. Paris, so we’ll be with a distributor showing at SIL. We won’t even be The goal was to address the changing buying patterns of re- able to stay in Paris full-time because we have to fl y back Sunday, the tailers who were becoming more demanding for shorter lead latest, in time for the New York market. And we won’t even have time times, timely deliveries and trend-right merchandise that to have our pre-market sales meetings, which we do on a Saturday.” would open up the pocketbooks of consumers. Natori further noted, “We are scrambling to make samples But for the majority of innerwear executives, something for three collections. It’s very inconvenient. Some stores will got lost in the translation, asserted vendors and merchants. still be in Europe, and will come to New York the following They are in a quandary over international time constraints, week. I think it was right to reduce the markets, but it probably travel plans, strained budgets and, in some cases, whether would have been better the third week of January.” they should attend New York market week, which is sched- The Huit stand at Lingerie Americas in New York. Richard Murray, president of Wacoal America, the U.S. unit uled Feb. 5 to 9, as well as the Feb. 7 to 9 Lingerie Americas of Wacoal Japan, noted, “It’s my understanding that the way the trade fair here. dates were set was, ‘Here are the suggested dates. Do you have In addition to jet lag, and the exhausting task for exhibi- any comments?’ Any comments were ignored, because the dates tors of setting up multiple trade stands here and in Paris dur- had already been set. Most people are doing what they have to ing the fi rst week in February, specialty store retailers who do to get by. The expectation is it will be better next year.” also serve as small business owners rely on the innovation Flora Nikrooz, who designs sleepwear bearing her name at and fashion products exhibited at trade fairs. Adding fuel to Age Group, said, “The pressure of getting collections ready on the debate is that February will be especially tough for bou- time is bad enough, but this is a totally ridiculous situation. We tique merchants who would rather be at their stores for pre- are not showing in Paris, so we are fortunate. But I think this Valentine’s Day business, the biggest selling holiday for linge- situation is unfair and very, very uncomfortable.” rie gift-giving. Several specialty retailers voiced their opinion on the issue. The Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris from Feb. Ruth Brennan, owner of Bits of Lace, a lingerie boutique in 2 to 5 compounds the crunch because it ends on the open- Charleston, S.C., noted, “It’s going to be extremely limited this year. ing day of the New York market. The fair is considered a key An overview of the SIL fair in Paris. We’ve been going to the Paris show for three years, and we love to venue for designers, merchandisers, distributors, sales repre- see cutting-edge ideas. But we’ll have to eliminate the Paris show this sentatives and retailers from the international marketplace. The French forum also year, because we can’t be away nonstop for that length of time. It doesn’t give us the opportuni- provides exposure for up-and-coming talent and smaller brands, which, depending on ty to attend both the Paris show and Lingerie Americas. But we’ll go to Paris at a later date.” fi nancial resources, exhibit both at SIL and Lingerie Americas. Peregrine Honig, co-owner of Birdies, an intimates shop in Kansas City, said she Explaining how the IAC set the Feb. 5 to 9 market week, chairman David Martino, has doubts about attending the New York market. also president and chief executive offi cer of Denton, Tex.-based Russell-Newman Inc., “Every year we go to the New York show, and it’s the one where we fi nd great interna- said, “What happened is one year ago we went to retailers and design houses about tional brands. But the reason we’re not coming this year is because it doesn’t seem like it going to four markets instead of fi ve. We checked with Paris [SIL], and we were told will be as big this year. We are considering going to the Paris show for the fi rst time.” their show would be the last week of January. Then, six months later, Paris changed Yolaida Duran, owner of Alla Prima, a lingerie store in San Francisco, said, “I don’t their minds, but our dates had already been set.” know how this came about, but to have to leave your store before the most important Mary Howell, vice president of industry relations for the American Apparel & Footwear holiday season is not only bad, it’s insane. We’re going to see disgruntled retailers and Association, the organization of which the IAC is part, said in an e-mail sent to a vendor that incredibly tired vendors falling asleep at their stands. And you know there will be ven- the IAC “sponsored a task force to determine the need to change to four markets a year. After dors who will say ‘We don’t have our samples yet from Customs, can you come back consulting most of the major department stores, it was agreed that beginning in 2007, the in- tomorrow?’ Well, I can’t. I have to do showrooms like La Perla and Dolce & Gabbana, timate apparel industry will go to four markets a year in New York, and the published dates which take an entire day.” Frederick’s Pins Hopes on Premiere Line Lou to Reenter U.S. Market LOS ANGELES — Frederick’s licensing partners before fter a three-year hiatus from the Lou name was created by a hus- of Hollywood hopes its new deciding on Stanley and A U.S. market, the French Lou bra band-and-wife team Lucienne and Premiere Line will be as suc- Ehrlich, who are designing brand will make a comeback at the Andre Faller, both world-class cessful as other company inno- products and using them on Feb. 7 to 9 Lingerie Americas trade skiers who met on the slopes in vations such as the push-up bra, their A-list clientele. show in New York. Grenoble, France. the thong and black lingerie. Premiere Line’s silicone The relaunch of the brand, which Lou’s target consumer is similar Seeking to give the line a pads, which lift and shape specializes in classic, European to the brand’s creator: over 25, prac- nudge along that path, presi- bosoms and bottoms, and styles ranging from highly embel- tical, price-conscious, willing to pay dent and chief executive of- elastic thigh and abdomen lished to sleek and seamless, is a for quality products and enjoying a fi cer Linda LoRe, along with shapers are packaged in lim- joint venture by Montreal-based BL “joie de vivre,” Ginsberg said. star stylists Estee Stanley ited-edition top and bottom Intimates and VF Intimates L.P., a Bras will retail for $70 to and Cristina Ehrlich — who kits that began retailing Dec. subsidiary of VF Corp. $100, and panties at $25 to $85. designed the label and have 8 in Frederick’s stores nation- Alan Ginsberg, BL Intimates’ Distribution is initially aimed at up- signed to be Frederick’s li- wide and on the Internet. The managing director, said the timing scale boutiques and a select number censing partners — were hosts Paris Hilton and line retails for $110 to $125. is right to reintroduce the 60-year- of major department and specialty at a dinner Wednesday night Nicole Richie Individual items will be avail- old bra that is the “third-best-sell- stores. Ginsberg said a sales force for famous clients and other able for sale in February. ing brand in France.” has been organized in Canada and Hollywood types at Lucques LoRe said more shape- Ginsberg added, “We are well the U.S.: four independent sales rep- restaurant here. wear may be added to the positioned to run a company like resentatives in Canada and six reps Jessica Biel, Nicole Richie line, but she declined to com- this and a smaller brand like this in the U.S. who have showrooms and Paris Hilton, all clients ment on future ideas for in- that will become stronger in North and will travel across the country. of the stylist duo, joined Eva timates and loungewear the America. A lot of errors were made Design and merchandising will be Mendes, Ivana Milicevic, design team may create. in the [original U.S. launch in the conducted in Canada, and Vanity Guinivere Van Seenus, Shiva Calling it a “win-win part- early Nineties]. But now Lou will Fair Intimates will oversee market- Rose McDermott, Amber nership,” LoRe said, “We be a wider-appealing line than in ing and distribution. Valletta and Monet Mazur at the were exposed tonight to a the past. It will be important to do A fi rst-year wholesale sales pro- 150-person dinner. A few guests, lot of different people who a core program, which will help jection was not available, but the such as Matthew Perry and mu- would need our expertise maintain continuation at retail and brand should generate sales of $10 sicians Ludacris, Scott Weiland Jessica Biel and and [Estee and Cristina] will we will eventually plan to make it million to $12 million, according to and Billy Morrison, simply came Eva Mendes become known to many, many replenishable. industry estimates. The Lou launch to enjoy the company. SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY women who could use their Ginsberg noted that there also for next fall will be supported by “Regular women look at these ac- expertise.” will be several fashion groups em- point-of-sale materials and a mar- tresses and think it’s so easy for them to Expect to see many gorgeous guests bellished with European lace and keting and advertising campaign look perfect, but they have help,” Ehrlich looking even more shapely at upcoming embroideries. Silhouettes will be at trade shows and regional publi- said. red carpet events. “I can’t wait to try these smoother and rounder, and sizes cations with the tag line “You are LoRe said the company considered items on at home,” McDermott said. will be extended to D and E cups. YOU in Lou.” many proposals when selecting its fi rst — Marcy Medina Acquired by VF in 1992, the — K.M. WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 11 WWD.COM Accessories Report Jewelry Retailers Pull Out All the Stops

By Sophia Chabbott

▼ A selection of silver jewelry FINE JEWELRY HAS BEEN ONE OF THE STARS SO FAR THIS HOLIDAY, at Tiffany & Co.’s Charm Bar and jewelry retailers are stepping up their service to make sure the momen- in Manhattan. Below: A tum continues. bracelet from the collection. In an effort to win over new customers and create a comfortable shopping ex- perience, several retailers are thinking outside the box to drum up business. De Beers wants to dissipate the initial tension between the customer and salesperson. The diamond jewelry company, which has been under media scrutiny with the release of the fi lm “Blood Diamond,” has 15 international stores, including locations in Los Angeles and New York, and has put jewelry prices in the windows and the cases in the U.S. for anyone to see. “Our strategy is, how do we make the consumer who walks in the store feel empowered, whether it’s a $6,000 or $6 million ring?” said Alyce Alston, chief executive offi cer of De Beers, North America. “The jewelry indus- try’s tradition has been to keep prices [out of sight] like it’s some big se- cret. Today’s luxury customers don’t need the pomp and circumstance... Maseratis and Oscar de la Renta dresses have price tags. I never under- stood why jewelry was different.” Alston said the formula is working, attracting customers who are

truly serious about buying through the threshold, while discouraging mere browsers. The customers can then go forward and get the help of ▼ a salesperson. Sharon When Tiffany & Co. debuted the Frank Gehry jewelry collection last Khazzam’s spring, the company allotted an open-air space in its New York and Los Angeles keeps close tabs on her one-of-a-kind pieces, one-of-a- fl agships, so consumers could touch and feel the jewelry, without the assistance of a which range from $1,500 to $2 million, and kind ring. salesperson. The open selling area was revolutionary for jewelry retailers, who are their buyers by getting to know her salespeo- concerned with shrinkage and the tidiness of displays. Tiffany beefed up security ple at Barneys. Khazzam is so well attuned to and sales help in the areas, preventing such problems. her client base, she even creates custom piec- “With Gehry, we didn’t want to do something in a traditional case line and have a es for them without their knowing. She once salesperson have to help you every time,” said Beth Owen Canavan, the company’s bought two hefty sapphires that reminded her executive vice president. “We wanted consumers to be able to explore it themselves, of the blue of a client’s eyes. When the client to see the movement and sensual curves. It was calling out ‘Touch me.’ ” saw the ring Khazzam created especially for Owen Canavan said the experiment worked out so well that last month it replaced her, she bought it. the Gehry open selling area with a Tiffany Charm Bar, in which customers can mix “What I have to offer that makes a differ-

▼ De Beers and match silver charms onto necklaces and bracelets. Prices range from $100 to ence is that even though I’m working with a puts prices $125. Already in New York and Los Angeles, the company is opening Charm Bars company that has other designers, we’ve creat- on display throughout many of its 64 U.S. stores. ed relationships with the sales associates and for its “It’s a very spirited collection,” said Owen Canavan about the charm line, add- we work almost as if it’s a tiny retail store,” diamond ing the department is one of the most populated areas of the stores. “It’s interac- said Khazzam. jewelry. ANTONOV PASHA BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; TIFFANY DE BEERS PHOTOS BY tive and fun.” Smaller jewelers also are developing their clever customer ser- vices. Chris Lane, co-founder of Elizabeth Leigh Co., a fi ve-year-old Coral Gables, Fla. -based pearl jewelry fi rm, will go out of her way for her clients. Lane has received clearance to meet a client for an hour at the gate of the Miami International Airport and often goes up to men’s offi ces to sell jewelry she knows their wives already love. Creating closer relationships with their customers was key to Lane and business partner Cara Brown upon founding the com- Real Jewelry. Real Choices. pany. Their jewelry isn’t wholesaled, nor do they have their own retail shop. The two host catered jewelry shows in clients’ homes in North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Georgia, New York and wherever 24 Karat Gold Over Sterling their clients take them. Amid the Champagne and hors d’oeuvres, Tarnish Free Sterling customers plunk down from $2,000 to $85,000 for a gem-quality pearl necklace. It’s not uncommon for the two to generate revenues in the Platinum Tone six fi gures in one day. “We sell to people without any pressure in a private home,” said Lane. “Eighty percent of the people that walk through our door are buyers.” Sharon Khazzam’s colored-stone-drenched designs are avail- able exclusively at select Barneys New York stores, but that doesn’t stop her from staying in touch with her clients and creat- ing custom pieces for them, which will be sold through Barneys. Khazzam, a native of Tehran who is based in Great Neck, N.Y.,

SUNNY DAY IN SOHO: Solstice, the luxury sunglass specialty chain, FINDINGS will open an East Coast fl agship on Friday at 107 Spring Street in Manhattan. The 850-square-foot space will carry more than 1,000 pairs of sunglasses from designer brands such as Gucci and Dior, in addition to more limited labels like Bottega Veneta, Boucheron and Oliver Peoples. “We’ve been trying to fi nd a location in SoHo for a while now,” said Ed Jankowski, chief operating offi cer of Solstice, which closed its 34th Street fl agship in midtown on Oct. 25. “With the store, we tried to preserve the integrity of the architecture and the storefront as it’s been for the last 50 years.” In keeping with the company’s merchandising style, eyewear, which retails from $75 to more than $500, will be displayed in open glass cabinets, allowing consumers to try them on. Solstice has 80 stores, including a West Coast fl agship in Los Angeles and a store in the The Shops at Columbus Circle in Manhattan.

MELE KALIKIMAKA: Just in time for the holidays, Chrome Hearts is saying aloha to Hawaii. The luxury accessories fi rm opened its 10th store at 2184 Kalakaua Avenue in Honolulu this month. The 3,050-square-foot store takes inspiration from the brand’s motorcycle-meets-rococo aesthetic, with a hand-carved relief ceiling, inlaid wood fl oors and cabinetry 401-941-7700 • www.danecraft.com with sterling silver hardware. The company now has fi ve U.S. units in addition to fi ve stores in Asia and Europe that offer its fi ne jewelry, denim, eyewear and various accessories. 12 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 Weekly Stocks WWD.COM 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT Financial HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 79.42 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch 15.6 96017 69.39 2.36 27.13 19.51 Acadia 42.8 18633 24.59 -0.51 33.01 21.07 Aéropostale 18.5 70114 31.50 0.47 22.25 17.01 Alberto Culver - 55733 21.93 0.76 3.19 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech 20.8 1212 2.44 -0.03 49.51 20.75 American Eagle Outfitters 22.0 188126 48.44 0.87 45.15 32.00 Ann Taylor 16.4 104919 34.02 -0.06 10.45 6.17 Ashworth 33.9 1932 7.53 0.39 34.25 26.16 Avon 31.3 92154 33.08 -0.61 23.03 9.02 Bakers 35.4 810 10.79 -0.36 26.86 13.05 Bebe 23.5 54342 20.40 0.71 WWD Stock Index Ends Week Flat 40.00 21.72 Benetton 50.1 197 37.40 0.58 16.50 6.97 Big Dog 90.8 355 16.05 0.55 BUOYED BY GOVERNMENT DATA THAT SHOWED NO Saks to $19 from a prior target of $18. “The target 7.85 5.70 Birks & Mayors 8.6 86 7.08 -0.05 33.07 25.18 BJs 19.0 47382 31.56 0.06 uptick in infl ation, stocks rallied Friday as investors price change refl ects our updated earnings estimates 46.44 23.73 Blair 13.6 556 31.36 0.76 6.80 1.62 Blue 13.5 2369 1.78 -0.21 drove up valuations across several sectors, except for Saks as well as our revised valuation methodology.” 1.60 0.68 Bluefly - 56251 1.31 0.20 39.36 18.38 Bon-Ton - 13093 35.07 -2.11 retail, which was mixed. Weinswig said in her research note that she was 51.00 27.77 Brown Shoe 21.4 15505 50.13 2.45 As a result, the S&P 500 gained 1.2 percent for “moving from a pure takeout valuation method [on 52.87 31.75 Buckle 19.0 7220 52.10 5.20 26.32 15.00 Caché 34.4 9209 25.21 -0.14 the week to 1,427.09 while the WWD Composite Stock Saks] to a probability-weighted analysis (50 percent 35.24 21.08 Carter 20.3 23399 27.23 0.01 15.10 5.86 Casual Male 27.9 22146 13.83 -0.13 Index shed 0.05 percent to 1,006.63. takeout, 50 percent turnaround).” Weinswig said this 26.70 19.35 Cato 15.0 8728 23.62 -0.13 44.30 35.80 CBL 38.0 14881 43.19 -0.22 Investors keyed into a report from the Labor refl ects her belief that Saks’ initiatives to improve 12.74 8.15 CCA 13.3 443 11.72 -0.08 25.85 7.61 Charles & Colvard 25.2 3990 8.32 0.46 Department that said core infl ation remained fl at operations at Saks Fifth Avenue while creating a cost 32.06 15.28 Charlotte Russe 19.2 21618 31.93 0.93 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes 16.9 44856 14.29 0.43 in November. This week, Wall Street will be closely effective support structure was “gaining traction.” 51.23 27.99 Chattem 23.0 11639 51.04 0.73 45.12 33.65 Cherokee 20.3 1836 42.06 -0.44 watching government data on November housing On the investment banking front, CapitalSource said 49.40 17.26 Chico’s 20.9 137323 22.01 -0.39 71.81 41.81 Children’s Place 25.7 23462 67.02 1.58 starts as well as the Producer Price Index. last week that it was forming a Canadian subsidiary 31.25 15.97 Christopher & Banks 17.4 62065 18.22 -0.55 Retail sales are also on the minds of investors. aimed at Canadian-based middle market companies. 44.30 34.57 Cintas 21.1 38419 42.73 0.07 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends 28.4 7358 42.38 -0.64 Some analysts are expecting markdowns to increase “We intend to originate transactions by working with 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores 19.4 153305 33.65 0.65 44.35 25.18 Coach 31.1 178222 43.03 -0.10 this week as Christmas draws closer. In a Goldman U.S. and Canadian private equity sponsors who value 31.26 18.69 Coldwater Creek 40.0 70804 24.71 0.23 67.08 53.41 Colgate Palmolive 26.4 76802 65.33 -0.27 Sachs report last week on specialty retailers, analyst speed, fl exibility and a Canadian dollar denomination 62.55 42.85 Columbia Sportswear 18.3 10409 58.72 -1.64 44.99 17.61 Conns 13.8 5461 23.07 0.13 Margaret Mager and her team compiled a price capability,” the company said in a statement. 57.94 46.00 Costco 22.5 240942 53.73 0.04 9.45 6.73 Cost U Less 11.1 881 8.12 0.07 check that found markdown activity in the sector was CapitalSource, based in Chevy Chase, Md., said it 50.25 20.32 Crocs 33.5 41976 42.41 -0.68 6.75 4.24 Culp - 1036 4.90 0.26 “roughly consistent with last year.” will offer cash fl ow, asset-based, senior and mezzanine 13.48 9.02 Cutter & Buck 15.1 1157 10.93 -0.17 5.25 1.85 Cygne Designs - 487 2.50 -0.31 “Most notable markdowns are up at Gap, fi nancing. The company noted that it has already done 32.46 21.34 Deb Shops 16.0 1085 26.92 1.73 Aéropostale and Chico’s, but lower at Old Navy, two Canadian deals, a $30 million recapitalization for 58.43 26.90 Deckers Outdoor 22.8 12000 57.64 0.08 12.00 6.61 Delia’s 63.3 13170 11.28 -0.12 Anthropologie and J. Crew,” Mager said in her report. fashion retailer Tabi International Corp., which operates 20.50 15.20 Delta Apparel 11.7 228 17.75 -0.16 10.58 5.92 Delta Galil - 46 9.54 0.42 At Gap, Mager found 62 percent of adult Gap 105 stores, and a $35 million senior term loan for 66.36 46.34 Developers Diversified 39.3 19297 64.06 -0.68 36.47 23.88 Dillard’s 14.9 59605 35.04 0.24 brand items on sale, which compares with 43 The Bargain Shop, which operates 150 stores. Cheryl 19.84 12.10 Dollar General 21.3 167721 15.72 0.40 28.09 16.91 Dress Barn 17.1 46054 23.93 -0.05 percent last year. At Aéropostale, 100 percent of Carner is the managing director of the retail team at 39.66 23.89 DSW 29.3 26007 39.30 1.29 42.06 20.02 Duckwall-Alco 23.0 699 36.68 0.55 the merchandise was on sale, which was the same CapitalSource. 23.50 6.88 Eddie Bauer - 14690 9.05 -0.02 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Arden 18.0 17212 19.39 0.89 as last year, while Chico’s offered 30 percent of its Michael Cipriani, executive vice president with 43.60 32.71 Estée Lauder 27.3 60884 41.04 -0.50 20.63 9.30 Everlast Worldwide 16.3 2679 18.41 0.62 total items on markdown versus 29 percent last Rosenthal & Rosenthal, a privately held factoring 30.91 21.57 Family Dollar 22.2 60810 28.97 0.39 year. Old Navy’s percent of total goods marked down and fi nance company, was named president of The 45.01 31.76 Federated Department Stores 21.4 505416 38.83 -1.55 18.81 9.55 Finish Line 15.7 22239 14.12 0.11 was 56 percent versus 87 percent last year while Needlers Foundation. The Needlers Foundation is a 26.16 24.58 Forest City 31.8 112 25.50 0.22 23.84 15.89 Fossil 23.6 13288 22.29 0.55 Anthropologie had 47 percent versus 38 percent. J. nonprofi t organization, founded by garment center 16.84 11.30 Freds 18.1 27104 12.25 0.53 42.95 31.12 G&K 20.1 3946 39.02 0.16 Crew’s markdown percentage was 53 percent, which executives in 1967, which contributes to children’s 19.98 9.80 Gaiam 90.3 9270 13.61 1.25 21.39 15.91 Gap 19.1 277503 20.39 0.73 compared with 57 percent last year. charities. Cipriani succeeds Jerry Fishman as 56.14 41.92 General Growth 268.8 57933 53.12 -1.40 43.72 25.50 Genesco 14.5 8050 39.22 -1.28 In the department store sector, Citigroup analyst president effective Jan. 1. Prior to his new position 22.50 7.32 G-III Apparel 29.5 7758 21.58 0.66 55.79 38.24 Gildan Activewear 28.0 7016 48.67 -2.16 Deborah Weinswig issued a report on Saks Inc. that Cipriani served as vice president for the philanthropic 29.10 23.08 Glimcher 103.1 10752 26.80 -0.04 11.89 6.29 Gottschalks 60.0 2505 10.75 -0.50 reiterated a “Hold, High Risk” rating on the retailer’s organization. 65.98 33.95 Guess 27.4 22443 61.30 -1.95 stock. However, the analyst revised her target price on — WWD Staff 49.11 20.78 Gymboree 22.4 40743 38.88 -0.39 152.00 69.11 Hallwood 5.3 87 97.40 0.65 24.80 11.76 Hampshire 11.3 733 16.65 -0.37 24.77 17.75 Hanesbrands - 28076 23.71 0.00 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx 18.6 6779 7.06 0.39 25.29 15.80 Helen of Troy 15.3 6848 23.86 0.43 15.64 9.43 Hot Topic 40.9 52999 14.01 0.23 7.50 0.95 House of Taylor Jewelry - 881 2.61 -0.22 NEW YORK — According to the chatter on on- able to offer a broad array of services to clients 37.71 23.54 IAC Interactive 38.7 177217 38.45 2.66 20.36 9.21 Iconix 23.7 45608 19.82 -0.17 line intellectual property communities and in the apparel industry and real estate business,” 1.41 0.37 Innovo - 5840 0.56 -0.10 21.77 15.39 Inter Parfums 24.9 2834 19.41 -0.22 blogs, eBay could be rolling out a new initiative Reinis said in a statement. He also has previ- 43.56 24.00 J. Crew - 22172 41.14 3.06 82.49 52.64 J.C. Penney 16.9 115452 79.53 2.60 to help fight counterfeit goods on its auction ously served on the board of California Fashion 11.80 7.15 Jaclyn 15.7 265 11.40 1.17 site. Reports said eBay notified some sellers by Associates, among numerous other organizations. 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel 21.3 35558 33.84 0.45 48.12 22.14 Jos. A Bank 14.5 18705 30.57 0.26 phone in late November that they would have to The U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal 34.84 22.83 Kellwood 37.2 13703 32.90 -0.78 28.72 21.75 Kenneth Cole 18.3 5547 24.26 0.09 adapt to new safeguards the company was put- Circuit overturned a Los Angeles federal court 68.00 56.59 Kimberly Clark 21.9 67653 67.23 0.96 47.13 32.02 Kimco Realty 31.0 62315 46.01 -0.09 ting in place. Few details were available about decision in a patent dispute between Classifi ed 75.54 42.78 Kohls 24.1 166726 70.71 -0.32 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss 14.4 10511 32.00 -0.09 the scope or specifics of the reported initiative. Cosmetics and Del Laboratories, according to 13.98 9.55 LaCrosse Footwear 13.0 408 13.50 0.37 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds 14.0 1157 13.96 0.06 The safeguards of the new program will apply to statements from Classifi ed Cosmetics. The over- 32.60 21.62 Limited Brands 16.4 137804 30.45 -0.30 21.50 8.66 Liquidity Services 49.1 16907 16.83 -1.15 merchandise found on an unreleased list of goods turned decision previously ruled that a patent 44.39 33.40 Liz Claiborne 17.7 21478 43.86 0.16 4.89 2.69 LJ Intl 18.2 6547 4.17 -0.24 considered “susceptible held by Classifi ed was 31.56 24.17 Luxottica 27.9 3272 30.43 -0.88 to counterfeiting.” The inoperable. The case 87.10 66.44 Macerich 130.5 17074 83.38 -1.75 22.84 8.49 Maidenform 18.3 8283 19.29 0.29 safeguards are said to has been remanded 41.75 28.75 Mens Wearhouse 15.8 33223 38.00 -0.63 26.18 15.20 Marcus 33.0 3822 25.95 0.27 require PayPal verifi- to the district court 57.65 11.00 Mothers Work 24.4 9779 41.95 1.14 27.29 17.60 Movado 17.1 6344 25.71 -0.43 cation for sellers, and for Central California 1.34 0.50 Movie Star - 3732 1.28 0.05 24.10 18.81 National Retail Properties 22.7 20131 22.84 -0.39 a ban of one-day and in Los Angeles for 28.93 22.80 New Plan Excel Realty 30.7 20947 27.74 -0.48 22.63 9.41 New York & Co. 18.1 17870 14.36 0.16 three-day auctions of further proceedings. 99.30 75.52 Nike 18.7 83030 96.05 -0.99 9.19 1.62 Nitches 49.7 3537 5.10 -0.93 items on the list, among According to court 50.97 31.77 Nordstrom 21.0 113918 50.30 1.69 20.55 14.18 Oakley 30.0 14996 20.36 -0.02 other things. A restriction on cross-border trade documents, Classifi ed fi led an injunction against 8.97 1.50 Oralabs 19.1 2620 5.06 -0.04 also is said to be part of the initiative. EBay could Del Laboratories in 2003 for an alleged violation 6.00 3.62 Orange 21 - 309 4.81 0.12 11.55 6.47 Orchids Paper 281.3 58 8.40 0.10 not be reached for comment, and there was no of- of a patent it had for spray-on foundation. The 56.55 34.34 Oxford 17.8 4029 50.70 -0.28 25.54 13.12 Pacific Sunwear 19.4 60929 20.16 -0.51 ficial statement released by the company. original case alleged that Del Laboratories’ Sally 19.24 4.43 Parlux Fragrances 18.8 20661 5.27 -0.18 22.67 17.00 Paxar 19.8 6054 22.65 0.44 Richard Reinis will join the Century City, Los Hansen Fast and Flawless Airbrush makeup and 32.68 20.36 Payless Shoes 22.1 61503 32.93 1.17 41.98 18.50 Perry Ellis 20.3 6172 42.26 0.86 Angeles, offi ce of Steptoe & Johnson LLP, an in- Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs products infringed 52.67 30.55 Phillips-Van Heusen 19.5 31719 51.64 1.83 6.19 3.00 Phoenix Footwear 11.5 570 4.42 0.12 ternational law fi rm. Prior to joining Steptoe, on technology patented by Classifi ed for its Era 15.49 9.30 Playtex 82.3 12424 14.72 -0.08 83.15 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren 22.5 42450 78.20 -2.30 Reinis was chief executive offi cer of Great Circle Face line. Del Laboratories disputed the original 20.64 7.55 PriceSmart 66.0 5391 19.68 0.59 3.00 0.92 Quaker Fabric - 3055 1.04 -0.20 Family Foods, a Krispy Kreme franchisee for claims and moved for summary judgment declar- 15.31 11.60 Quiksilver 19.2 144681 15.75 0.62 Southern California. Reinis spent the bulk of his ing Classifi ed’s patent inoperable and therefore 39.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson 72.1 8657 38.81 1.48 81.42 57.44 Regency Centers 44.1 13615 78.34 -0.56 career working for apparel and fashion-industry invalid. In the opinion overturning the federal 19.75 11.60 Retail Ventures - 33243 19.26 0.26 3.95 0.76 Revlon - 49583 1.36 -0.11 clients as managing partner of Reinis & Reinis court’s decision, the Court of Appeals said Del 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands 12.3 3663 17.00 1.71 31.80 22.12 Ross Stores 19.8 64329 30.61 0.42 in Los Angeles. He was also general counsel of Laboratories hadn’t met the burden of proof to 21.45 14.10 Saks 25.4 151304 17.90 0.50 182.38 114.90 Sears 20.7 80852 175.09 0.99 Smart Modes of California, a women’s clothing show that it was entitled to a summary judgment. 29.55 19.25 Shoe Carnival 18.2 5410 30.33 1.93 11.00 5.19 Shoe Pavilion 27.6 384 6.89 -0.56 company, and California Mart, a building in Los Del Laboratories could not be reached for com- 104.08 76.14 Simon Properties 58.6 54258 100.49 -0.95 32.75 14.75 Skechers 20.4 24192 31.50 0.35 Angeles that serves apparel manufacturers. “By ment by press time. 6.16 3.68 Sport-Haley - 98 4.30 0.01 18.83 11.27 Stein Mart 17.2 13053 14.82 -0.23 virtue of my association with Steptoe, I will be — Liza Casabona 4.00 2.83 Stephan 40.0 62 3.60 0.05 44.70 18.63 Steve Madden 17.8 13019 36.28 -0.06 16.21 11.90 Stride Rite 18.8 8593 15.46 -0.10 13.40 9.95 Superior Uniform 37.2 136 12.55 -0.35 21.24 14.20 Syms 36.3 354 19.55 0.11 WWDComposite Index 1.38 0.33 Tag-It - 4224 1.05 0.03 Weekly % Changes Ending Dec. 15 31.00 17.30 Talbots 26.3 41146 25.58 -0.15 12.36 9.27 Tandy Brands - 769 11.66 -0.39 8.32 5.51 Tandy Leather Factory 18.7 465 7.90 0.22 40.35 28.39 Tanger Factory Outlet 95.3 8872 38.50 -0.91 60.34 44.70 Target 19.9 211469 58.76 0.63 Gainers Decliners 2.20 1.02 Tarrant Apparel - 7383 1.35 -0.23 Composite 51.30 33.82 Taubman 43.2 13279 50.08 -0.02 13.73 8.08 Tefron 18.7 2463 11.28 -0.20 1006.63 41.29 29.63 Tiffany & Co. 21.9 52197 38.64 -0.80 Close Change Close Change 37.61 24.80 Timberland 18.0 24027 32.00 -0.20 29.84 22.16 TJ Maxx 16.3 187226 29.05 1.06 Unifi 2.40 39.53 Quaker Fabric 1.04 -16.13 24.36 14.65 True Religion 15.2 15882 15.50 -0.14 44.53 25.75 Tween Brands 22.5 24228 43.36 0.53 52.25 25.15 Under Armour 74.3 44417 50.62 -0.24 Bluefly 1.31 18.02 Nitches 5.10 -15.37 3.76 1.69 Unifi - 51338 2.40 0.68 41.63 28.65 Unifirst 17.7 6994 39.46 -1.21 Jaclyn 11.40 11.44 Innovo 0.56 -15.15 20.78 12.15 United Retail 6.4 5614 14.31 -0.58 -0.49 29.89 13.65 Urban Outfitters 33.8 203785 24.00 0.54 82.69 53.25 V.F. Corp. 16.6 37872 82.43 3.02 Rocky Brands 17.00 11.18 Tarrant Apparel 1.35 -14.56 41.40 18.24 Volcom 26.5 11475 30.67 -1.24 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart 16.6 859341 46.45 0.10 Buckle 52.10 11.09 Cygne Designs 2.50 -11.03 28.22 15.75 Warnaco 23.9 17025 25.49 -0.86 13.45 10.50 Wellco 13.0 21 10.50 -0.25 47.94 36.77 Weingarten 27.0 26764 46.78 -0.30 25.72 18.76 Weyco 13.6 599 24.00 0.32 4.13 2.03 Wilsons - 9766 2.20 -0.15 COMPILED BY DATA NETWORK, HUNTINGTON, N.Y., 631-549-1014. NOTE: INFORMATION AND DATA, THOUGH BELIEVED ACCURATE, IS NOT GUARANTEED. DATA NETWORK SHALL 30.20 20.26 Wolverine 20.0 10517 29.11 0.01 NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INACCURACIES. 31.72 21.01 Zale 29.3 19152 29.81 0.37 38.85 19.83 Zumiez 48.3 20190 29.40 -1.65 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 13 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

SQL Series Software www.ngcsoftware.com

Red Horse ERP Business Mgmt. e-SPS Global Sourcing System e-PDM Product Data Mgmt.

1412 Broadway Miami (305) 556-9122 New York (212) 369-3778 [email protected] 14 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

PRODUCTION IN CHINA HK office w/ factory. Woven, t-shirts & sweaters. Basic to complicated styles. Samples to prod’n w/ excellent coordina - tion. Call Ms. Yeung: 212-268-5882 PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- FIT MODEL/CLERICAL ASSISTANT Est’d NY importer of costume jewelry sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Howe, a leader in the premium men’s market has several /access seeks exp’d jewelry/self-starter (Job# 2333) w/proven following to sell volume exciting opportunities at its Huntington Beach, CA retailers, catalogs, premium accounts. headquarters. Base + comm + benefits. Email: Jones Apparel Group has an immediate opening for a highly [email protected] / F: 212-594-4466 motivated individual to perform the dual functions of Fit Model General Merchandise Manager and Clerical Asst. The successful candidates should have basic Oversee and manage the merchandising and production clerical skills including data entry, faxing, filing and note taking activities for the company. ability. Prior exp in an office environment is strongly preferred. • 5 years Retail Buying or Wholesale Merch/Production exp. STERLING JEWELRY SAMPLE SALE • Degree in business, clothing or textiles/equivalent work Following are the specific measurements needed for the Major Account Executive experience. Fit Model job function: UNDERWEAR & UNDERPINNINGS • Knowledge of premium market. Exp’d In-house Major Account Rep LOUNGEWEAR, SLEEPWEAR AND wanted to join Executive Sales team to ROBES FOR MEN AND WOMEN service new & existing accounts. Great Height - 5’7"; Bust - 35 ½" to 36" opportunity to work for mfr. of private DECEMBER 19TH 8A.M. TO 6 P.M. Designer Tops Waist - 28" to 28 ½" label sterling jewelry. Company has a DECEMBER 20TH 8:30 A.M. TO 4 P.M. Responsible for the development and execution of concept High Hip - 35 ½"; Low Hip - 38" to 38 ½" sterling reputation in quality, style, 40 EAST 34TH ST. SUITE 207 through completion in wovens, knits, sweaters, and and delivery of the best product in the CF Length from Neck to Waist - 14 ½" business. Atlanta based operations. blazers/outerwear. CB Length from Neck to Waist - 16 ½" Must have experience collaborating w/ • 5+ years of design. design & product development. Excel- • College degree in Fashion or Design/ equivalent work exp. lent salary, commission, and benefits. We offer an excellent benefits package and a dynamic work Fax: 770-279-2063 environment. For confidential consideration, please apply via E-mail: [email protected] Designer Bottoms our Career Center: http://careers.jny.com Handbag Co. for Sale Research and design for the premium market regarding col- Over 700 current stores, 1M+ sales, or, denim & non-denim fabrics, style, trends, product mix 20% growth per yr. Great oppt. for a An EEO/Affirmative Action Employer co to expand into handbags or to and price points, fit and finishes. broaden current line/cust base. Any of- • 3+ years Design experience. Emphasis on men’s contempo fer considered. For more info E-mail: rary denim/sportswear market. [email protected] • College degree in Fashion or Design/ equivalent work exp. Division Coordinator Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Provide administrative support and represent Company with No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: internal and external sources to include customer service, (937) 898-2975 independent sales force, design and merch., trade show Junior/Missy Sportswear Buyer reps., marketing and advertising vendors, etc. • 2 + yrs. general admin. experience preferably in a sales or The Cato Corporation, a leading specialty retailer of marketing environment. value-priced women’s fashion apparel, has an exceptional ASSISTANT DESIGNER • Successful proven work exp. supporting multiple people in opportunity for a Junior/Missy Sportswear Buyer in our Major Woman’s Outerwear Co. seeks Assistant Designer for fabric and trim a fast paced high demanding work environment. Corporate Office in Charlotte, NC. research, development and production approval. Overseas communication. If you would like to be part of the apparel The desired candidate will possess a proven history of Excellent computer skills. Highly successful buying and product development. This individual organized. Please e-mail resume to: company of choice, [email protected] Send resume to: will be results oriented, creative and analytical. Qualified or Fax: (212) 764-7057 [email protected] candidates will possess a minimum of 5 years buying AA/EOE experience and a four-year degree. Cato offers competitive BABY PHAT salary, bonus, medical, dental, life, disability, 401(k) plan Designer & Graphic Designers Needed and other benefit programs. Infants through 16 Email: [email protected] For consideration, please submit your resume and BOOKKEEPER Product Development Manager salary requirements to: The Cato Corporation, PO Box Major apparel firm seeks organized & 34216, Charlotte, NC 28234, fax to: (704) 551-7246 responsible individual to manage G/L, Donna Karan Home, a leading designer home fashions or email: [email protected]. 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. A/R & A/P, factor statements reconcili- brand, seeks a Product Development Manager. Candidate High ceilings - Excellent Condition ation and Letters of Credit. Must have will be responsible for product costing, vendor negotiation, Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 experience in garment industry with Search www.manhattanrealty.com great communication and computer quality control and general time and action execution. A skills. Please send resume to: minimum of five years experience in the fashion and/or Search For Space In Garment Center [email protected] Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee home furnishings industry is desired. Experience in managing www.midcomre.com CAD Artist $50-55K Current exp in others in the creative effort is a plus. Good organizational Accessories Designer- Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Primavision. Strong in prints, cleaning up of prints. 525 7th Ave. 973-564-9236 skills and attention to detail are needed to be successful. Shoes and Handbags Showrooms & Lofts or E-mail: [email protected] The position is located in New York with travel required. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS CHEMIST Excellent computer skills necessary, including Excel, Seeking highly motivated, creative, Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Cosmetic Formulator PowerPoint and Photoshop. independent, well organized indi- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 vidual to handle the development Desert Essence, a global leader in the Please send resume to [email protected] or cosmetics & beauty care ind. seeks an of accessories line. Must have 5 exp’d formulator to develop Body Care fax to 704-522-4704 with "DKH Product Development" years experience in luxury acces- products. Specifically, you’ll be resp. in the subject line. for pilot to full-scale development, sories market working with Italian optimizing mfg processes, trouble- To be considered for this position, please include vendors/technical knowledge of shooting production batches, preparing recent salary history. materials & hardware development MANAGER product formulations & collaborating/ personnel to meet DSHEA rqmnts. BA / great sketching skills/ proficient (Textile Color & Quality) (MA pref’d) in Chemistry, Biochemistry Designer $50-70K Current exp in private in Photoshop and Illustrator. LOOKING FOR AN or Pharmacology w/ 3-5 years related label updated Jr. driven missy sports- DESIGNER EXCITING OPPORTUNITY? A Manhattan based children’s apparel HEAT TRANSFER PRESSES exp req’d. Excellent comm & PC skills wear. Midtwn co. Call 973-564-9236 or New York Handbag Company seeks Email resume & sketch sample to: with the ability to travel a must. Email [email protected] creative, talented, exp’d individual to [email protected] co. seeks a Manager of Textile Color and Insta Graphic Systems Model 228 with Quality. Responsible for coordination 15" x 20" platens and digital controller Send resume and cover letter with DESIGNER design jr/missy handbag line. Must salary history to: have handbag experience. Overseas No phone calls please. of all fabric. Will evaluate and approve for time and temperature. 14 available. color (woven and knit) using light box Call Joe at 631-871-3493 [email protected], or Assistant Designer travel a must. Must be a team player. fax to: 631-232-5051. EOE. Est’d. dress and sprtswr. co. seeks cre- Please fax resume with experience and and spectrophotometer and work closely ative & organized indiv. Candidate salary requirements to: 212-492-0085 with design team to develop color di- must be flexible and able to work in a rection and communicate to the mills. CUSTOMER SERVICE fast paced environ. Must be able to Submit resume and salary requirements Midtown imptr. seeks bright indiv. w/ DESIGNER sketch freehand. Min. 2 years exp. NYC mfgr of kids furniture, bedding, GRAPHIC ARTIST in confidence to: [email protected] customer service exp. to process orders, E-mail to [email protected] www.kahnlucas.com picking tickets & asst. customer. Heavy lighting & room décor seeks license NYC childrenswear co. seeks individual phone exp. operator w/ excellent data designers with at least 2 yrs exp in to create innovative art from concept Leather & Shearling entry speed for multi-product co. DESIGNER Disney, Nick or similar. Must be to final art for branded and license Samples, Domestic Prod, Short Runs. proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop lines. Proficient in MAC Illustrator/ MENS ASSOC DESIGNER Good salary & benefits. Large private label co dedicated to Alligator & Python. Fast, Reliable, E-mail: [email protected] CHILDRENS & have exp preparing tech paks for Photoshop. Please email resume to: Economical. Call Steve 917-841-6726 products & packaging. Send resume to: [email protected]. fashion development & execution NYC childrenswear co. seeks energetic [email protected] seeks a creative & organized Assoc DESIGN ASSISTANT indiv. for newborn through toddler Designer to join our growing Men’s Women’s Better Sportswear & Jeans license and private label lines. Min 5 Design team. Must have strong com- Co. seeks an energetic design asst. for years exp. Illustrator a must. Email DESIGN - Handbags munication skills along w/ super Illus- a creative working atmosphere. Must resume to: [email protected]. Major HB Co. has several positions avail: trator & Photoshop talent. Knowl of have extensive knowledge of Photoshop/ Sr. Designer/Design Asst./Freelance tech packs & garment construction w/ Illustrator, CAD drawing & technical DESIGNER Exp w/ Brands & PL a + but not req’d. Graphic Artist to 60K. Exp in Layette, attn to fabrics, finishes & details needed. flats. Background in knits & print re- Please fax resume to 212-563-6112 Baby, Cutesy, Sweet, Girly appliques Great benefits & competitive salary Large Pvt Label co has Great growth Email: [email protected] PATTERN/SAMPLES peats a plus. 2 yrs current exp needed. oppty for a talented/highly organized and prints. Illustrator proficiency as Please fax resume Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Send resume to: [email protected] individual w/ 5yrs exp to join established well as talent in freehand drawing. attn: HR Assoc. 212-556-5369 work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Design Director/Merchandiser $150- women’s wear design team. Will over- Full time perm only. 175K. Current exp in girls infants to see development/ execution of cut & [email protected] 973-564-9236 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tweens or jrs. Supervise designers. sew knits thru completion. Excellent Develop brands in all price point mkts. Illustrator & photoshop skills key. Fabric Coordinator Merchandiser/Product Developer $125- PRODUCTIONS Must have a trendy eye w/ strong pas- 150K Current exp in sourcing world- All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Must be strong in fashion trends. 973-564-9236 [email protected] sion for fashion & ability to communi- Seeking a highly motivated, inde- wide, accessories, jewelry or watches. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. cate your vision to our overseas offices. pendent, hands on, well organized Logistic/Traffic Mgr. Devel new products for est. co. Strong Design Great benefits & competitive salary individual to handle fabric, yarn and Well est’d. wholesale/mfr of Rainwear, understanding of fashion trends in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please fax resume trim research, buying and follow up. with substantial distribution in discount popular placed market. Call 973-564- PRODUCTIONS Embroidery Designer attn: HR Assoc. 212-556-5369 Must have over 4 years of experi- chain customers seeks an individual 9236 or E-mail [email protected] Small Couture House seeks a beading ence in designer market/experience exp’d. with freight companies, movement Full service shop to the trade. & embroidery designer with a minimum working with European, Asian and Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. of merchandise, EDI, scanning software, of 5 years experience. In addition to Designer/Merchandiser domestic vendors/proficient in and inventory control. Must also be exp’d. Patternmaker Head $125-150K. Excel and Outlook. Excellent com- Patterns/Samples/Production excellent design capabilities, knowledge For boys sportswear size 4-20. Must be with the preparation of manifests, bill Chinese, English, Bi-Lingual nec. of garment construction and pattern- able to merchandise and design line. munication skills a must. of lading, and invoices. Company offers Contemporary dresses/sprtswr. Supervise Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms making/grading is a must. Overseas Freelance is okay. Individual needs to Email resume to: health benefits and 401K. Compensation 5. Name brand designer. First and Any Style - Full Service experience a plus. Fax or E-mail resume: work independently . [email protected] based on qualifications. Fax resumes production patterns. Call 973-564-9236 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 212-242-0771 / [email protected] PLEASE FAX Resumes to 212-730-9705. No phone calls please. & salary requirements to: 732-873-5100 or E-mail [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 15

COUTURE BRIDAL LABEL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE 3-5 yrs. exp. in bridal mkt. Have rela- tionships w/ bridal salons & dept. stores. Build new business & grow existing accts. Some travel req./No multi-line reps. Great comm. package. Email resume: [email protected] SALES e-mail: [email protected] Sales Dir/Prfm/Mass mkt accts $120-150k National Sales Dir/Hi-end fashion $80k+ Store Mgr/Montreal/Luxury goods $Open Mgr/Mad Av/Prestige fashn house $80k+ AR Supervisor/ Chargeback exp $45k SALES EXECUTIVE A large Accessory Company looking for a highly motivated sales executive with min 3 years experience with Dept store, Chains, mid-tier. Please fax resume to 212-563-6112 Email: [email protected] Sales Executive Famous Brand Introducing New Acces- sory Luxury Line. Seeks exp’d Sales Person for N.Y. Showroom. Familiar w/ Luxury Handbags, Small Leather Goods and Travel Goods. Email resume to: [email protected] SALES MANGER ...... 150 K + 5-10 yrs Home Fashion, Kohls exp Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465-8300 [email protected] www.srisearch.com SALES-Newborn/Infant HI $ Est’d co seeks exp’d sls pro for mid tier moderate baby line. A.D FORMAN ASSOC. 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123

ASSISTANT SALES MANAGER Prestigious luxury jewelry company seeking a qualified assistant sales manager for their flagship boutique located on Madison Avenue in NYC. Luxury goods experience a must. Please fax resume to: (212) 439-4222 Attention: Ms. J. Simonian Retail Sales Professional High-End apparel company seeks Sales Associate with luxury experience for its Manhasset Long Island location. Exceptional customer service skills and professional demeanor required. Please Fax or email your resume to: 646-304-5674 or [email protected]

Tracy Reese Exciting Sales Oppty Seeking energetic self motivated sales associate to work in our NYC boutique. Must love selling, building relation- ships and giving excellent customer service. Competitive compensation & full benefits. You must have an estab- lished client book. Pls e-mail resume ACCOUNT MANAGER DESIGN MANAGER to Danielle: [email protected] Donna Karan Home, a leading designer home fashions Donna Karan Home, a leading energetic upscale home brand, seeks an Account Manager with 5+ years experience fashion company, is seeking a Design Manager for bed and in wholesale sales. Position is based in our NY office and bath products. Fashion and/or home furnishings design would work with prestigious accounts. Department stores experience is a must. A minimum of five years of design sales or buying background a must. Home furnishings or experience is desired in embellished, print, and woven Branded fashion experience required. Strong team player products. Experience in managing others in the creative Global Sourcing/Prod’n. Mgmt. with superior analytical, communication, presentation, and effort is a plus. Good organizational skills and attention to Accomplished Apparel / Textile Sourcing retail planning skills. Excellent computer skills necessary, detail are needed to be successful. The position is located in Exec w/extensive experience managing including Excel and PowerPoint. AS400 familiarity a plus. New York with travel required. all aspects of sourcing / production / product development seeks growth op- Travel required. portunity for full or part-time basis. Candidates should send resume with cover letter Background in woven/knit sportswear & Please send resume to: [email protected] including recent salary history to: activewear for men’s/boys’/women’s/girls’ or fax to: 704-522-4704 with "DKH Sales" in [email protected] or fax to: 704.522.4704 sold to mass & mid-tier stores. E-mail: the subject line. with "DKH" in the subject line. sourcingexec@hotmail. com To be considered for this position, please include recent salary history. *Production---Production* Assistants-Coordinators-Managers Retail Analyst PATTERNMAKER Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries Designer Jewelry Co. seeks detail oriented Skilled in men’s/ladies. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY individual to compile & report sales data. Must know Gerber technology. Major apparel company seeks detail 2-3 years min. exp. w/Dept. Stores req’d. QUALITY CONTROL oriented & organized assistant for a busy Excel a must. E-mail resume & salary Experienced in garment production. production job dept. Responsibilities request: [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER/ILLUSTRATOR include PO entry, work order entry Production Sourcing Mgr $130-160K Experienced only. and sample tracking plus follow up and Current extensive exp in outerwear, Must know garment construction. handling of all packing and carton polyfill, wool, winter jackets req’d. Must have worked for min 100 mil vol LONG ISLAND MANUFACTURER markings. Must have good computer & SECRETARY/ ORDER ENTRY 3 F/T Positions. Fluency in English. co. technical proficiency in construction communication skills. AS 400 experience of outerwear. Will supervise min 10. Accessories co seeks exp. person for Good salary & benefits. Italian jewelry brand, a world leader, is preferred. Fax resume to: 212-730-9705 Email: [email protected] secretarial duties w/strong computer skills Fax resume: (516) 483-9439 or E-mail: Email resumes to [email protected] entering the U.S. market. Looking for [email protected] Energetic Sales Reps who are profes- sional, able to communicate and ready to work with a dynamic marketing & PLANNER ...... 60-75K management team. Please send your Sales planning expert Excel Production Coord $50-55K Exp in putting PRODUCTION Tech Designer-$50-60K. Current exp in resume to [email protected] Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 production pkgs together for Far East. TECH ASSISTANT putting tech pkgs together to be sent [email protected] Chinese, English bilingual. Approvals of to far east. Strong in sewing construction. www.srisearch.com fabric, art, fit, samples. Mdtn. Call: 973- TRIM BUYER Long Island City. Call 973-564-9236 or 564-9236 or Email: [email protected] Production Assistant - Trim Buyer needed Email: [email protected] for Maggy London Dress based in New York. This is a fast paced environment & requires someone who is aggressive Product Development Mgr. & has an eagerness to learn the methods Tech Designer to $65K. Current exp in in which we operate. Responsibilities Major apparel company seeks individual wovens, knits, sptswr. Tops & bottoms. include but are not limited to: trim Some unconstructed jkts and simple for managerial position. Responsibilities buying & coordination, receiving & include approving lab dips, fabric, and dresses. Bway/36th St. Call 973-564-9236 PRODUCTION MANAGER sending samples to & from overseas. or Email: jaralinc@comcastnet accessories. Individual will review design NJ based public company, (Bergen Will liaison w/ design & head pattern worksheets and coordinate information County), specializing in private label maker to set up fitting schedules, or- bet. design department and production production from Asia. Seeking a highly ganize & file fit comments, order supplies department. Must have good organiza- motivated, skilled production manager. for pattern room, coordinate all paper tional, communication and computer Minimum 5 years experience. Handle work & copies of cost sheets needed for Tech Designer to $75K. Current exp in skills. Fabric construction knowledge large volume accounts. Must be fitting, review all cutting tickets, plus and Wal-Mart experience a plus. full fashion sweaters. Convert Jr.+ Missy meticulous with details. Excellent other duties as directed by the production sweaters to plus size sweaters. Private PLEASE FAX RESUME TO: 212-730-9705 organizational and follow up skills mgr. TECH & PRIVATE LABEL EXP A label. 1400 Broadway. Call: 973-564-9236 required. Responsible for monitoring PLUS TO ASSIST PROD MGR W/ VAR- or Email: [email protected] and tracking production from inception IOUS TECH & GARMENT RELATED to delivery. Ability to communicate TASKS. Dress exp. a plus. (BI-LINGUAL with overseas factories necessary. -ENGLISH-CANTONESE-MANDARIN- Importing background helpful. Must PREFERRED; not mandatory) Benefits Trim Buyer $55k Current exp in buying be versed in both Excel and Word. plus 401K. zippers,buttons,lace etc. Computerized E-mail resume to: Please respond w/ salary req’s to reports followup. Buy domestic/ foreign. [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] 6th Ave/ 42nd St. [email protected] A SPECIAL ISSUE WWDAccessories Supplement 2007 Get on the “A” List PHOTO BY JEREMY GOLDBERG PHOTO BY

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