Shine of the Times Futurism Isn’T Just for Clothes at the Moment — It’S Infl Uencing Accessories, Too, in Shiny Looks with a Bit of an Edge
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GUESS SAID IN EUROPE DEAL/2 CLOAK TO CLOSE/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • December 18, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Shine of The Times Futurism isn’t just for clothes at the moment — it’s infl uencing accessories, too, in shiny looks with a bit of an edge. Here, from top, Christian Louboutin’s patent leather clutch, Tod’s leather bag, Jil Sander’s leather bag and Laurence Dacade’s leather shoe. Stars on the Wane: Celebrity Fashion Lines Losing Their Mojo By Julee Greenberg Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé Knowles Olsen have everything from shakeout is looming in the and Gwen Stefani were among sportswear to area rugs; Mandy Acelebrity designer world. the first few, but in no time, Moore has T-shirts; Hilary Duff A few years ago, the fashion everyone from A- to Z-listers has sportswear and accessories; industry saw an explosion of music were turning themselves into Jaime Pressly recently introduced and Hollywood stars who suddenly clothing and beauty brands. a contemporary sportswear decided to become designers. Today, Mary-Kate and Ashley See Fashion, Page 6 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Guess Said in Europe Deal By Lisa Lockwood Focus Pull SpA, based in Bologna, Italy, cur- WWDMONDAY rently does about $50 million in sales. Sources said Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear n a move to substantially expand its business over- the business is on track to generate between $200 Iseas, Guess Inc. is buying the controlling interest million and $300 million within three to fi ve years. in Focus Pull SpA, which holds the license for the There are 18 Guess by Marciano stores in Europe, GENERAL Guess by Marciano contemporary line in Europe, the the Middle East and Asia, and plans call for open- When it comes to celebrity-branded lines, some clear winners and los- Middle East and Asia, according to industry sources. ing 30 more next year and 40 to 45 stores in 2008. 1 ers have emerged. The deal is expected to be announced this week. Paul Marciano, co-chairman and co-chief ex- Guess Inc. is reportedly buying controlling interest in Focus Pull SpA, its In January 2005, Guess acquired its European ecutive offi cer of Guess, could not be reached for 2 Bologna, Italy- based contemporary licensee. jeanswear business, which gave it a signifi cant comment Friday. platform from which to expand its business on the Guess by Marciano is a women’s contemporary EYE: The 2006 social season wound down Thursday at the Guggenheim Continent. line of woven and knit tops, dresses, skirts, pants 4 Artist’s Ball and tenor Antonello Palombi overcomes a rough start in “Aida.” At Guess Inc., the total European business gen- and outerwear, as well as tailored suiting for men. Retail prices for women’s apparel fell 0.4 percent in November as prices erates $36 million in earnings and $185.3 million The line is developed in Europe by Focus, which 9 on all goods held steady. in revenues. has been a Guess licensee for the past nine years. Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................13-15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Cloak Designs Planning to Shutter WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. NEW YORK — Alexandre Plokhov wasn’t intending to go ship on Greene Street here, VOLUME 192, NO. 127. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three Plokhov plans to close his six- forward with his capsule mens- which will also carry the fi nal additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. year-old business, Cloak Designs wear collection for Uniqlo ei- spring 2007 collection. The store PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: LLC, due to partnership issues. ther. He declined to reveal how was opened as a joint venture S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David The men’s wear company much volume Cloak generates. with specialty retailer Opening Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- will shutter after it completes Known for its elegant hand- Ceremony. Humberto Leon, co- dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine production and shipment of its tailoring, dark colors and mili- owner of Opening Ceremony, Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. spring 2007 collection. tary-style detailing, Cloak has be- who along with his partner, 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Plokhov couldn’t be reached come a favorite men’s wear brand Carol Lim, are partners in the Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS for comment Sunday, but said among rock stars and others. The Cloak store, couldn’t be reached CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR in a statement, “I am extremely line has also developed a female for comment Sunday. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four proud of all the accomplishments fan base, as women buy Plokhov’s Designed by Plokhov and Leon, weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. our collective of like-minded chunky sweaters and drainpipe the store’s interior has the feel of Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. individuals has managed to trousers. In an interview in 2005, an English gentleman’s club. It of- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, achieve and would like to thank Plokhov told WWD, “Women buy fers a bespoke service as well as and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions all of our supporters through the my clothes. I would love to design limited-edition pieces. and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make years. Cloak had a good run and women’s wear one day, but I want Having previously worked at our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would I had a blast doing it.” to concentrate on men’s now.” Ralph Rucci and as a pattern interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise The Russian-born designer, Cloak sells to stores such maker at Marc Jacobs, Plokhov us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. 40, was nominated for the 2006 as Barneys New York here, in set off on his own in 2000. He was WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- CFDA Menswear Designer of the Los Angeles and Boston; Fred followed there by Robert Geller, ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Year award, and received the Segal in Santa Monica, Calif.; who became his creative and OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED 2005 CFDA Swarovski Perry Ellis Colette in Paris; Holt Renfrew business partner. The two de- Award for Menswear. In 2004, in Toronto; Camoufl age in New signed four collections together Plokhov tied for second place York; Arrive in Miami; Harvey before parting ways three years TUESDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Nichols in London and Hong ago, and Geller retained a 50 Producer Price Index for November. Foundation Fund Award. Kong, in addition to many stores percent interest in the company. Christopher & Banks Corp. reports third-quarter A spokesman for Plokhov throughout Japan. Geller went on to design a wom- sales and earnings. said the designer’s plans are un- In September, 2005, Cloak en’s wear line called Harald. known at this time. He said that opened a 1,000-square foot fl ag- — L.L. WEDNESDAY: Nike Inc. reports second-quarter sales and earnings. THURSDAY: The U.S. Commerce Department releases Fifth Avenue Protest Affects Holiday Shopping the third-quarter Gross Domestic Product report.