5 37 AL TIMON BRAGOZZO Exposed bricks, a counter with a generous Fondamenta dei spread of cicchetti, excellent spritz and BACARI Ormesini 2754 ombre, a relaxed atmosphere: this typical Cannaregio ➃ Venetian tavern ticks all the boxes. where Venetians love to go +39 041 524 6066 There is only one difference: the house altimon.it speciality is meat and not fish. A must-try!

38 TRATTORIA A place where you can experience the real DA BEPI GIÀ ‘54’ . The interior of this traditional 36 OSTERIA BENTIGODI Bentigodi has a bit of a retro feel to it, Campo SS. trattoria, with its wood-panelled walls Calesele 1423 with black and white photos on the Apostoli 4550 and exposed beams, provides the perfect Cannaregio ➃ walls and lampshades made of music Cannaregio ➃ setting to sample simple, unfussy +39 041 822 3714 scores hanging from the ceiling. Chef +39 041 528 5031 Venetian cuisine. In autumn and spring, bentigodi.com Dominico’s elegant and creative take on dabepi.it you should definitely try their fried traditional Venetian cuisine goes well moeche, or soft shell crabs. This delicacy is beyond what you’d expect to ordinarily becoming increasingly difficult to find. find in an ‘osteria’. They also have an excellent wine list. 39 CACONERO If you need a break from Venetian Fondamenta cuisine and are looking for a more inter- Barbarigo 2344 national menu, then head to Caconero. Dorsoduro ➁ This large bistro – opened in 2017 – off the +39 041 524 6042 tourist trail, is popular with university caconero.it students and for business lunches. Try their varied and tasty salads and their homemade cakes.

40 OSTARIA AL PONTE An amazing selection of cicchetti and Calle Larga Giacinto cheeses, a good wine list and reasonably- Gallina 6378 priced spritzes: in short, this historic Cannaregio ➃ restaurant has it all and if you wish to +39 041 520 2747 stop for a more substantial meal, the fish dishes are definitely worth trying. 40 OSTARIA AL PONTE

46 47 35 PLACES TO HAVE A DRINK

5 places to drink ON A BUDGET————————————— 56

5 bars where you can enjoy A GREAT SPRITZ———— 58

5 wonderful MUSEUMS where you can enjoy A CUP OF TEA————————————————————————— 60

5 quality WINE BARS————————————————————— 62

5 places for A LATE NIGHT DRINK—————————— 64

5 places for an excellent ESPRESSO——————————— 66

5 HISTORIC CAFES————————————————————— 69

VINO-VERO 5 fun 94 MERCATO DI Definitely the most popular market with VIA GARIBALDI locals, where Venetians outnumber the OPEN-AIR MARKETS Via Garibaldi tourists. Here they sell fruit, vegetables, Castello ➄ and fish. Open daily from 7 am to 2 pm.

95 ORTO DELLE A marvellous initiative of the Rio Terà dei MERAVIGLIE Pensieri co-op. The Orto delle Meraviglie AT: CARCERE FEMMINILE (Garden of Wonders) is a 6000-square- DELLA metre field, which is farmed by inmates 91 IL MERCATO DELL’ This market is held every Thursday (WOMEN’S PRISON) of the women’s prison, using organic ALTRAECONOMIA from 10.30 am to 6.30 pm. As the name Calle Convertite 712 methods only. They sell the fruits of Rio Terà dei Pensieri suggests, this is not your typical market. Giudecca ➅ their labour every week from a stall in Santa Croce ➂ The stallholders sell sustainable and Fondamenta del Carcere. ethical products, such as organic and locally grown food, medicinal plants and clothes produced with natural dyes.

92 MERCATO DI RIO This small market is held in Strada Nova, TERÀ SAN LEONARDO off the Ponte delle Guglie bridge. It Strada Nova mostly has fruit and vegetable stalls, as Cannaregio ➃ well as smaller stalls that sell fish, and sometimes clothing and household goods. Open Monday through Saturday. The opening hours are the same as those of the local stores.

93 MERCATO DI One of the only chances to see vehicles SACCA FISOLA drive in Venice. Trucks are loaded with Calle del Vaporetto 5 merchandise on the mainland, then Giudecca ➅ ferried here where they open their doors and become street stalls. What do they sell? Extremely fresh food, as well as clothing and household items. 95 ORTO DELLE MERAVIGLIE

76 77 5 examples of GREAT 194 FONDAZIONE VEDOVA The works of the great artist Emilio Fondamenta Zattere Vedova could not have been placed in a CONTEMPORARY Ai Saloni 50 more suggestive location. This former salt Dorsoduro ➁ warehouse has brick walls and an austere ARCHITECTURE +39 041 522 6626 architecture. The architect Renzo Piano’s fondazionevedova.org idea to install and use a track system with mechanical arms to hang and move the artworks is quite interesting.

191 CEMETERY Architects will be interested to know that 195 FONDAZIONE CINI The island of San Giorgio is definitely OF SAN MICHELE the extension of the historic cemetery AT: LE STANZE DEL VETRO worth a visit for all the treasures it Isola San Michele ➆ of Venice was designed by the British / THE GLASS ROOMS hides, including the glass rooms by the +39 041 729 2841 architect David Chipperfield. Everybody Isola di San Giorgio architect Annabelle Selldorf. This stark, else might find it fascinating that persona- Maggiore 8 minimalist space is dedicated to the study lities such as Emilio Vedova, Stravinsky, Isola di san Giorgio and exhibition of contemporary artistic and Christian Doppler, are buried here. Maggiore ➅ Venetian glass. In either case, it’s worth a visit. +39 041 522 9138 lestanzedelvetro.org 192 TEATRINO DI The architect Tadao Ando designed the PALAZZO GRASSI space of this small theatre, with curves of AT: PALAZZO GRASSI cement and marble, using the vibrating Campo San and zenithal light to expand the space. Samuele 3231 The hall seats an audience of 225 and San Marco ➀ offers a nice programme of events +39 041 523 1680 including concerts, conferences, shows, palazzograssi.it and projections.

193 FORMER CHURCH After a fantastic restoration by the OF SANTA MARTA architects Vittorio De Feo and Vincenzo Calle Dietro Ai Casali, this Romanesque building with Magazzini brickwork and trusses now features an Dorsoduro elegant wooden reversible structure, that ➁ 195 FONDAZIONE CINI comune.venezia.it is used as an exhibition hall and theatre.

122 123 267 BIBLIOTECA DELL’ASSOCIAZIONE SCIENTIFICA PALAZZO CAPPELLO 5 historic LIBRARIES

266 BIBLIOTECA This splendid library is located inside MONUMENTALE the patriarchal seminary and can be AT: SEMINARIO PATRI- visited by appointment. It contains ARCALE DI VENEZIA a substantial number of mostly religious Fondamenta Salute 1 texts, the majority of which are at least Dorsoduro ➁ two centuries old. +39 041 274 3973 seminariovenezia.it

267 BIBLIOTECA Palazzo Capello is home to several DELL’ASSOCIAZIONE associations including the Scientific SCIENTIFICA Association of Palazzo Capello and the PALAZZO CAPPELLO Centro Internazionale per la Decorazione Fondamenta e il Restauro degli Apparati Decorativi Laterano 6391 Barocchi e Neoclassici, which boasts a Castello ➄ remarkable library of about 10.000 texts +39 041 522 1307 on the subject. Even the hall where the volumes are kept is worth visiting for its 16th-century ceiling, terrazzo floor, and decorated exposed beams.

158 159 5 339 PALAZZO DONÀ The historic home of the Donà dalle Rose DALLE ROSE family was erected in the 17th century BUILDINGS to visit (only) Fondamente at the behest of Doge Leonardo Donà Nove 5038 dalle Rose. It has two façades, both in during the BIENNALE Cannaregio ➃ the late renaissance style, one facing +39 380 154 1468 the Rio dei Gesuiti, and the main one facing the island of and the northern lagoon.

336 PALAZZO BARBARO Two palaces actually make up this 340 CHURCH OF Finding this small church is not an easy Campiello Pisani 2840 complex: Palazzo Barbaro Curtis, which SANTA CROCE undertaking. Its modest entrance is San Marco ➀ dates back to the 1400s, and its extension, DEGLI ARMENI hidden in a sotoportego. Visiting it may +39 349 650 3892 Palazzo Barbaro. The Biennale has been Rio Terrà de le be prove even more difficult however. labiennale.org using the ground floor in Palazzo Barbaro Colonne 1059 Nonetheless, this small 12th-century since 2015 for side exhibitions. It’s worth San Marco ➀ building is an important testimony to visiting just for the breathtaking view of +39 041 526 0104 the history of the Armenian community the Canal Grande. and the cosmopolitan and welcoming tradition of Venice. 337 PALAZZO BEMBO Although the interior has been heavily Riva del Carbon remodelled, the façade of this beautiful 4793-4785 palace, which overlooks the Canal San Marco ➀ Grande, remains quite faithful to the +39 346 760 3386 original Venetian Gothic style. Today the palazzobembo.org building is home to a hotel, but during the Biennale it also hosts side events.

338 VILLA HÉRIOT Villa Hériot is a bizarre neo-Byzantine Calle building, which is mainly known for its Michelangelo 54/P large garden that overlooks the lagoon. Giudecca ➅ It was commissioned by the French +39 041 520 1959 industrialist after which it’s named. After his death, the villa was handed over to the municipality of Venice. Nowadays it’s an 338 VILLA HÉRIOT exhibition space for Biennale exhibitions.

194 195 5 427 BOOK A CUSTOMISED Allison loves the lagoon with all her GUIDED TOUR heart and knows it like the back of her ACTIVITIES IN +39 388 325 5635 hand. Contact her for a journey that is allisonzurfluh.ch meticulously tailored to your needs: she THE LAGOON will point out the most authentic and unknown places of Venice as well as those most suitable for you.

428 A CRUISE IN How does this sound for a plan: hop 426 BOAT TRIP WITH If you really want to understand the THE LAGOON ON aboard a 1946 bragozzo, eat and drink THE FISHERMEN lagoon, its history and the ecosystem that A BRAGOZZO amazing things prepared by the owner, STARTS AT: characterises it, then trust Domenico From a chef, while sailing quietly along the Burano ➈ and Enrico. These two fishermen have Around Venice �� lagoon’s canals? You’ll visit some of the +39 041 735 688 restored an old family bragozzo (local most famous islands, and wonderful +39 339 273 9551 boat) and organise custom trips to hard-to-reach places like the Sant’Andrea +39 388 325 5635 (ENG) corners of the lagoon that only the most fortress, while spending the day with a pescaburano.it experienced sailors can reach. Venetian crew and international guests.

429 BIKE RIDE As cycling in the historic centre is strictly ON THE LIDO forbidden, nothing stops you from taking ➇ a nice ride on the islands of the lagoon. The Lido lends itself particularly well to this activity, with its murazzi (walls built to protect the lagoon against storms) and the Alberoni beach. Take your own bicycle, or rent one directly on site.

430 PASSEGGIATA Mestre, where Venice’s industry is located, is PATRIMONIALE hardly ever taken into consideration when (THE HERITAGE it comes to tourism, but there are many WALK) IN MESTRE good reasons to take this walk. It’s run by 426 BOAT TRIP WITH THE FISHERMEN Mestre �� local scholars and guides, locals love it, and +39 041 274 7804 it’s free. It usually takes place on the last weekend of September. Book in advance.

236 237 5 bizarre 474 CALLE PARADISO It’s not clear whether this street takes San Polo ➂ its name (Paradise Street) from a noble TOPONYMS family or casada that lived nearby or from the particularly lavish decorations that were put up here on Good Friday. The wedding of a Foscari to a Mocenigo is referenced on the arch at the top of the street, dispelling the former option.

471 SOTOPORTEGO The Sotoportego della Scrimia is located 475 PONTE DELLE TETTE Yes, this bridge’s name means exactly DELLA SCRIMIA in San Polo. Until 1661, this area was San Polo ➂ what you think it does: the bridge of San Polo ➂ called Calle del Garotti. Its name later the tits. The whole area of ​​the so-called changed, owing to the presence of a carampane used to be the city’s red-light fencing school, hence the word scrimia, district. From this bridge, passers-by could or swordsmanship. see the women at the windows that faced the bridge who exposed their breasts to 472 FONDAMENTA Literally Stua (dialect for stove or heater), attract potential customers. DELLA STUA these places were the equivalent of San Polo ➂ modern beauty salons, places where you could enjoy Turkish baths and massages, where women would gather, and sometimes also have secret affairs.

473 RIO TERÀ DEI In the district of San Marco, near Campo ASSASSINI Sant’Angelo. The rather distressing San Marco ➀ name (Former Canal of Assassins) derives from the number of murders that took place here, especially at night. To curb the phenomenon, the Republic of Venice even ordered that the street be fitted with public lighting.

473 RIO TERÀ DEI ASSASSINI

256 257