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Making Wine Outside the Box Winewaker André Mack’s Uncommon Inspiration

by Maria C. Hunt | photography Get Fraîche Cru

f you look closely at the label of ‘Love Some wine buyers are flustered when Drunk’ ; there’s a little inscription they see the label, but most get it. Ithat says, “When reality is better than “Well the label is very catchy, but aside ur dreams.” from the label, the juice on the inside is It might be a description of this frisky crisp and clean,” says Adam Linet, who little wine by Mouton Noir that sells Mouton Noir’s O.P.P. at his wine shop has the juicy flavor and intoxicating Vino Fine Wine & Spirits in New York’s color to induce a giddy sort of pleasure Flatiron District. “It’s a nice bridge be- akin to falling in love. Or it might be how tween the highly extracted pinots America and owner André Mack thinks has and something Burgundian.” about his life. It’s no accident that Mack’s are During his days as a with both approachable and elegant like the ’s Per Se and French Laun- best pinot noirs of . He takes dry, Mack earned the nickname “mouton his inspiration from the in- noir” — French for black sheep — because dependent of Burgundy who he always had a way of doing things that buy and make their own individual was a bit different from the corporate wines. norm. “I take a lot of my cues from Burgundy,” “It was always the running joke when says Mack. “We’re in the Willamette Val- we got bored at work, I’d say I’m going ley region, one of the most respected in to make these wines and I’m going to call Oregon to produce wines that show indi- my label Mouton Noir,” says Mack, 39, viduality of the respective sites, to make a who lives in New York with his family. wine that’s true to where it’s from.” “It was a dream and something I always A military kid, Mack says moving every joked about and then through some crazy two years gave him the ability to be able to roundabout way it all seemed to come adapt to any social setting. together.” “I always felt like I was always in two As a winemaker, Mack is about mak- worlds and now when I got to be in busi- ing seriously good wines and having fun ness and became a sommelier it was kind while doing it. Taking inspiration from It was always the running of more of the same thing,” Mack says. the independent winemakers of Burgun- joke when we got bored at work, He puts his two worlds together most dy, hip-hop style and the beautiful fruit graphically in his line of Get Fraîche Cru T- he sources from Oregon, Mack is making “I’d say I’m going to make these shirts. Most feature puns and plays on pop wine that matters. wines and I’m going to call my culture that only a wine geek would love. Alain Ducasse’s Adour in the St. Regis label Mouton Noir. Vinocidal Tendencies spoofs a punk band, Hotel, New York, pours Mouton Noir wine, Domaine Dujac is homage to the prized as do Bernard’s Bar at the Elysian Hotel in you’re wondering, O is for Other, P is for red Burgundy, while Run DRC mashes up Chicago and Rogue 24 in , DC. People and no temple scratchin’ needed; the iconic rap group with Domaine de la Mack’s Code Noir — a silky wine the last P is simply Pinot. ” Romanée-Conti, the world-famous estate full of berries and hints of chocolate — is Mack makes wine at a custom crush fa- in Burgundy. featured by the glass at the restaurant Mi- cility in McMinnville, Oregon and heard “I just want to have fun,” says Mack. “I chael Mina in San Francisco. there was some good wine already in a don’t have a family legacy or heritage in “Dre is one of the coolest people in the barrel for sale. this business, so I can really be me.” wine business,” says , sommelier “We bought barrels of wine from a for the Michael Mina restaurant group. down the street that went bank- Visit www.moutonnoirwines.net for a list of “He has a special talent to finding wines rupt and we referred to them as the ‘oth- wines currently available and follow Mack that tell a story.” er people’s wine,’” says Mack. “When it on Twitter at @moutonnoirwines. Be sure to One of the best-known commercial came time to name it, we called it Other read our review of Mouton Noir’s 2010 ‘Love wines in Mack’s portfolio is O.P.P. In case People’s Pinot.” Drunk’ Rosé in Wines in Review.

14 Cuisine Noir | Summer 2012 Wines in Review

Enjoy festive days and warm summer nights with 10 of our latest top wine selections from our experts.

Whites Reds

2010 Concannon 2007 Concannon 2009 Wente Livermore Valley Reserve Livermore Valley Reserve Livermore Valley Assemblage Blanc Nina’s Cuvée Petite Sirah Nth Degree Cabernet ($18.00) ($30.00) Sauvignon ($60.00) A total surprise. This new blend Petite sirah is first about color A masterpiece of black cherry, by Concannon (featuring the and Nina’s Cuvée is no exception. chocolate, coffee and black Bordeaux whites of sauvignon Deep purple colors highlight this currant, this dark-fruit heavy blanc and semillon) combines the wine that gives off blackberry cabernet shows off the muscular crisp acidity of on the nose and full pepper, nature of California-style with the sultry viscous nature blackberry and black cherry on . The wine’s of semillon. The flavors are the palate. flavors make it a meal in itself, expectedly citrus, melon but it also pairs well with lower and peach. 2010 Kim Crawford acidity cow’s milk cheeses (avoid Marlborough the higher acidity of goat’s milk cheeses) and, of course, beef. 2010 Fetzer California ($18.99) Gewürztraminer ($10.99) Kim Crawford’s pinot noir is a Fetzer Vineyards has built a fresh, New World representation ROSÉ legacy on being green and of this . Rose, violet and creating wines that are simply strawberry notes are present outstanding. This gewürztraminer on the nose and on the palate 2010 Mouton Noir is rich and complex with aromas those are joined by cherry and Oregon ‘Love Drunk’ Rosé of tangerine, mango and cola flavors. (16.99) orange spice. Despite the American style swagger in the name, this is a 2011 Kim Crawford 2010 Quady Red Electra delightfully delicate dry rosé that Marlborough Unoaked Madera ($13.00) whispers Provence from its pale salmon hue to the aromas and A sweet party wine for people ($16.99) flavors of minerals, savory herbs who don’t normally like wine, A beautiful example of a true and tart red fruit like currants, Red Electra’s 5.5% alcohol is chardonnay that’s not overoaked. raspberries and strawberries. less than half that of traditional White peach, nectarine, citrus Close your eyes and you might wine. The wine is unashamed and green melon dominate the be transported to the south of about tasting typically “foxy” palate on this wine and are — just for a moment. backed with hints of vanilla (grapelike) and the bright red and nutmeg. color and light fizz make it a perfect drink for socializing.

2009 Seven Sisters 2010 Todd Taylor Napa Bukettraube Odelia Valley Alphawolf Cabernet If you have a question ($13.99) Franc ($40.00) A South African favorite that , one of the parent about one of the wines is light and full of flavor. This grapes of cabernet sauvignon, featured as well as other is not too sweet is typically used for blending wine selections or general and is a wonderful selection to but the 2010 by Todd end a delicious meal. Balanced Taylor stands well on its own as questions, please email with flavors of honey and fruit a varietal wine. As with most Greg B.C. Shaw at of apples and pears, it can be cabernet francs, this one has the [email protected]. enjoyed any time of the day distinctive nose of violet and red or night. fruit. The palate is surprisingly sturdy with blueberry, currant, plum and fall spices on the finish. 38 Cuisine Noir | Summer 2012