Buyingguide February2018
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BUYINGGUIDE FEBRUARY2018 THIS MONTH 2 OREGON 32 WASHINGTON 36 CALIFORNIA 59 ARGENTINA 65 AUSTRALIA 70 SPAIN 76 BURGUNDY 90 BORDEAUX 94 VENETO 97 SOUTHERN ITALY 98 SICILY 100 GERMANY 106 HUNGARY 106 MOLDOVA 107 TURKEY 107 OTHER EUROPE 107 ISRAEL 108 CHINA 109 SPIRITS 111 BEER Gently rolling vineyards in Oregon. FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS BEBA73/GETTY WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE Carabella 2015 Eve’s Garden Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains). This is the winery’s 91 reserve-level Chardonnay, and just three barrels were produced. It offers extra concentration and a silky mix of apple and pear fruit, with a touch of OREGON minerality. The finish, which is long and balanced, Spotlight on Chardonnay is enwrapped in almond flavor. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $45 ometimes dissed as white wine with train- marries them to traditional Burgundian tech- Lenné Estate 2016 Chardonnay (Yamhill- ing wheels, Chardonnay still remains a niques such as barrel fermentation and stirring Carlton). This creamy and smooth wine 91 favorite among consumers due to its wide of the lees. tastes of mashed apple, papaya and pear. Almost availability on the market and generally For those seeking rich bottlings—think high- half was aged in new oak, which contributes to that Sgood quality. But beyond just good, truly great end California wines but with distinct and fresh silky mouthfeel and to its butterscotch-laced fin- ish. A hint of minerality infuses the acidity. Though Chardonnay is elusive. Historically, there are acidity—look to Domaine Serene. The win- young, this first-time effort is delicious and ready two main camps: the New World, heavily oaked, ery produces a half dozen single-vineyard and for immediate enjoyment. —P.G. buttery and rich Chardon- reserve bottlings, notable for abv: 13.6% Price: $40 nays; and the elegant, detailed, their concentrated, sappy fruit mineral-driven Old World styles. Oregon’s vintners and generous, yet judicious, Saffron Fields Vineyard 2015 Estate Chardon- nay (Yamhill-Carlton). Not much Chardonnay Oregon’s vintners can emu- application of new French oak. 91 can emulate the is produced at this winery, which is a shame. This late the best of both worlds, best of both worlds, Top quality from any region spicy, toasty, well-rounded effort is clean and fresh. while producing distinctive, while producing comes down to the usual trium- It mixes grapefruit, green apple and white peach fla- place-specific wines. Look to virate: the age of the vines, loca- vors with zippy acidity. Drink now through 2025. pioneering wineries such as distinctive, place- tion of the vineyard and skill of —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $44 Adelsheim, Eyrie and Ponzi for specific wines. the winemaker. When they are an overview of techniques. all in harmony, brilliant wines Carabella 2015 Dijon 76 Estate Chardonnay Jason Lett at Eyrie favors old- emerge, and in Oregon, they’re (Chehalem Mountains). Supple, buttery 90 vine wines from Draper and Wente clones that typically at prices well below the iconic Char- and forward, this is full of lovely caramel-dipped were brought up from University of California– donnays of California and Burgundy. apple flavors. Around that tasty core are hints of crisp herbs and citrus fruits. It’s well-built, well- Davis in the mid-1960s. These wines are lean, Oregon’s best Chardonnays are complex— balanced and fine for immediate consumption. subtle and especially ageworthy. Luisa Ponzi is at times delicate—yet always balanced by nat- It was barrel fermented in 100% French oak, one incorporating some new oak into her vineyard ural, fresh acidity. Wines from cooler sites and eighth new. —P.G. designates, and exploring the impact of new vintages display green and yellow fruits, while abv: 13.4% Price: $32 clones and wild yeasts. Adelsheim, a leader in warmer years bring ripe tree fruits and even Keeler 2015 Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). the introduction of the French Dijon clones, tropical flavors. Drink up! —Paul Gregutt This wine’s well-ripened yellow and green 90 fruit flavors come with fruit skin and herb notes. It’s a sleek, stylish and medium bodied, showing a light touch of toast from aging in a mix of new and tation. It was whole cluster pressed and barrel fer- one-year-old French oak. —P.G. CHARDONNAY mented in puncheons, 20% new. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $90 Domaine Serene 2015 Clos de Lune Vineyard Marshall Davis 2016 Marshall Davis Vine- Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). For full review Domaine Serene 2015 Côte Sud Vineyard yard Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton). This 96 90 see page 3. Cellar Selection. Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Bright, tart and is a chewy, nutty, punchy wine with a solid core 93 abv: 14.2% Price: $75 very tasty, this ultraripe cuvée brings lush apple of apple and melon fruit. Its acidity lends a gener- sauce, peach cobbler and Meyer lemon flavors. It’s ous citrus tang, and the flavors smooth out nicely Lingua Franca 2015 Avni Chardonnay (Wil- vivid, detailed and framed with toasty new oak. —P.G. through the finish, with a burst of caramel. —P.G. lamette Valley). Lingua Franca, a Larry abv: 14.2% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $36 94 Stone/Dominique Lafon project, offers a challeng- ing, absorbing lineup of Chardonnays and Pinot Winderlea 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette Saffron Fields Vineyard 2015 Chardonnay Noirs. The Avni bottling is tangy and tight, with Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’ (Willamette Valley). Sourced from a num- 93 90 white peach and melon fruit and hints of toasted Choice. ber of non-estate vineyards, this is sleek and pre- nuts and butter. The finish extends gracefully, keep- abv: 13.7% Price: $38 cise, marrying toasty oak to crisp tree fruit flavors. ing you riveted. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. The ample acids add a touch of grapefruit and the abv: 13% Price: $40 Shea 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette Val- 16 months aging in 20% new French oak rounds out ley). Smooth and rich, this young wine has the fruit perfectly. —P.G. 92 Lingua Franca 2015 Sisters Chardonnay (Wil- exceptional texture and mouthfeel. It’s a seamless abv: 13.5% Price: $40 lamette Valley). Lingua Franca’s Sisters mix of ripe stone fruit, with a touch of vanilla and a 94 bottling is tight and firm, with buttery apple flavors hint of butter. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. that suggest partial but not full malolactic fermen- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Continued on page 18 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2018 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tast- ing Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Coordinators Carrie Dykes and Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Hall 2014 Rainin Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in gnon (Diamond Mountain District). From England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt 98 Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and the iconic site atop the mighty mountain appella- Sean Sullivan in Washington. tion, Rainin is exotic in forest, soy and sage notes, Hall 2014 Bergfeld Cabernet Sauvignon (St. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- with a powerful and densely layered tannin struc- Helena). Smoke and oak commingle on the tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- 96 ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- ture. Black pepper, plum and leather are made all nose of this bright, crisply underwritten red, with ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. the more complex by a tease of rocky ash that gives 7% Merlot. Vibrant in red cherry, red licorice and Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. the wine a distinct mineral character and earthi- cassis, the flavors are highlighted along a carpet of Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its ness. This is one for cellaring. Enjoy 2024–2034. velvety texture and serious power. Enjoyable now, suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us Cellar Selection. —V.B. this should also be lovely and in full grasp of its by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 15.6% Price: $325 grace from 2024–2034. Cellar Selection. —V.B. are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 15.3% Price: $175 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Patz & Hall 2015 Chenoweth Ranch Pinot Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Noir (Russian River Valley).