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Home , Galician wine, Monterrei (DO), O Ribeiro, Rias Baixas, Ribeiro (DO), Valdeorras (DO)

Written by Ferran Centelles 22 Aug 2018 Go-getting

Galicia is one of the most active regions within . The number of is booming, small projects are flourishing, and ambitious grape growers continue to start producing and labelling their own . To be honest, there is such a shake-up in the region that I even get confused and find it difficult to keep my information up to date.

Luckily, I collaborate with an organisation called INGAVI ( Institute), which looks after Galician education and does many wine events. The general manager is the renowned sommelier and seasoned expert Xoan Canas, who basically knows everyone and everything in Galicia.

With the team of INGAVI I always end up talking about new producers, rare wines and tiny projects. Normally, the conversations are very humbling as I discover new names, new varieties and trends.

If you have read my articles already, you will know how I adore going to the Consejo Regulador of any wine region for a tasting. I normally ask for one or two samples from each , sometimes three of four from particularly important producers. I try to limit the tasting to 80 samples per day and when possible I taste blind. I like the idea of encouraging all producers to present samples; it is fair and normally it translates into new wine discoveries and finding up-and-coming producers.

However, the tasting below is not one of that kind. Of course it was blind, but the selection was 'maliciously prepared' by the team at INGAVI. They selected and gathered the wines that, from their point of view, best represent quality, innovation and the new Galician flavours. The excitement in the region is palpable. New energy is already here and the purpose of this article is to introduce this new generation of producers.

The majority of wines presented below are produced in tiny quantites (1,000–3,000 bottles). This is necessitated by the fact that this is a region of smallholdings, and because the wines tasted are mostly top cuvées.

Wines from the five DOs (Denominación de Origen) within Galicia are presented: Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, , Valdeorras and Monterrei. And wines from IGP () and on the coast north of Rías Baixas are also included. And there are also wines from some producers who prefer not to belong to any appellation and simply label their wines Vino de España.

In Galicia red-wine quality has improved enormously. You will find in the notes below equal numbers of red and white wines, a fact hard to imagine several years ago. This is a very welcome change. The new Galician reds, currently so popular in the best restaurants in Spain, are vibrant and not alcoholic. However, some of these wines are fermented with stems, which, if not superbly ripe, can impart green flavours that, in my view, are undesirable.

The white wines were very pleasurable, too. I particularly like the use of , which today has a supporting role, improving texture but not overwhelming the wine at all. To be honest, the tasting was one of most relaxed and hedonistic recently. I am sure that after reading some of the notes, you will want to taste more Galician wines.

I normally prefer talking about the wine per se rather than about the person behind it. I think I taste better if I know less about the life and miracles of the producer. The extrinsic quality clues of the wine such as the prestige of the winery or the sense of place, the heritage, are, for me, less important than the taste of the wine (its balance or concentration). However, in this article I have included some personal stories as I really need to show you some of the new and classical faces that performed exceptionally well.

In Rías Baixas the historical producers such as Pazo de Señorans and Do Ferreiro (who presented a superb wine called Adina) are today superbly joined by others such as Rodrigo Méndez from Forjas del Salnés. He is the nephew of Gerardo Méndez of Do Ferreiro and counts on the inspirational local winemaker Raúl Pérez (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/raul-perez-ultreia-st-jacques-2008-) for some of his top reds. In addition, Eulogio Pomares is today a very successful and creative winemaker in both his family estate Zárate and in his own eponymous project shared with his wife Rebecca.

Alberto Nanclares y Silvia Prieto are also on the crest of the wave in terms of popularity. They are producing authentic wines based on minerality rather than fruit with minimal intervention. I actually like them very much. However, the wine selected for the tasting is produced as an and did not get the rating expected. In any case, I recommend you look for their oak-matured whites such as the cuvée Nanclares.

Allow me to highlight the work of Xurxo Alba (pictured above) of Albamar. Since 2006 he has taken care of the family winery that was launched 25 years ago. He has at least seven different Albariño labels; he is all ready great and the future looks equally promising. The Albamar cuvée presented is ridicoulsy inexpensive for its quality. The whites from Xurxo are more convincing than the reds.

Fulcro is another name to promote within Rías Baixas. This is a micro-project managed by Manuel Moldes (pictured below). He is recovering old vines around . He is not the most well-known producer – yet. Today his whites are truly a bargain.

Ribeira Sacra was the most suprising region; there are lots of outstanding red wines and it keeps getting even more exciting. The classics are Dominio do Bibei (owned by the affable but quality- obsessed Javier Domínguez) and Algueira (in the hands of the meticulous and precise Fernando González). They are both leaders in quality and performed well as usual. Ponte da Boga – a winery with the pre-eminent Dominique Roujou de Boubee as winemaker – follows, together with Guímaro, a superbly revitalised project driven by Pedro Manuel Rodríguez.

I'm now going to divulge three important new names. All of them are very new and none of the three falls within the appellation system although their and wineries are within the Ribeira Sacra area. Fedellos do Couto is a project launched in 2013 by three partners that have put every single cent from past works into this tiny project (just 22,000 bottles a year). They are Curro Bareño (pictured below wearing a hat), Jesús Olivares (pictured below with no glasses) and Luis Taboada. Before getting together they had different experiences in many regions in Spain. Their Bastarda is a delicate wine that makes your mouth water.

Daterra Viticultores is the personal project of Laura Lorenzo (pictured below). She started in 2015 and previously worked for Dominio do Bibei. She owns 4.5 ha (11 acres) of very old vines (some of them 120 years old). Her wine Azos do Pobo was a star during the tasting and I gave it 18 points. She works in permaculture (somewhere between ecological and sustainable).

Silice Viticultores (pictured below) started in 2013. They own crazy parcels within the Amandi subregion of Ribeira Sacra. The brothers Carlos and Juan M Rodríguez are acompanied by Fredi Torres (a prolific winemaker with projects in some Catalan regions) in this adventure. Their top cuvées are among the most expensive wines in Galicia but I think they are worth it.

Although I have this time highlighted those three projects, the tasting included other outstanding wines from Ribeira Sacra. Fazenda Prádio in the hands of Javier Seoane (a third-generation viticulturist) produces a remarkable wine with miniumal sulphur. Furthermore, the crew from Envínate (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/the-canaries-where-vines-and-wines-creep-up-on-you) a project that gathers four friends (Laura Ramos, José Martínez, Roberto Santana and Alfonso Torrente) and produces excellent wines in other regions such as the .

To finish with Ribeira Sacra I would like to emphasise the very good work of Rodrigo Méndez (Forjas del Salnés) together with Raúl Pérez for the superb 2,500 bottles of their great Mencía known as Castro Canada, A Boca do Demo.

Valdeorras performed well. Rafa Palacios (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/rafael-palacios-as-sortes-2011- ) is already well known but, believe me, his O Soro was the best white in the tasting. I can still remember its electrifying presence. Viña Somoza is advised by Javier García, who, in turn, is part of the project of 4 Monos and Jiménez Landi in the Sierra de Gredos (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/gredos-pinotlike-garnacha) . His Valdeorras wines are delicate, not far from the elegance that he is achieving in Gredos.

Unfortunately, Telmo Rodrígez did not want to send samples – a shame as his Valdeorras As Caborcas would have perfectly suited the selection.

In Ribeiro I would like to highlight the superb enterprise with Joxe Lois Sebio (Coto de Gomariz) and Bernardo Estévez at the head. Bernardo presented two wines but asked me not to publish my notes on them. However, I can say that his Chánselus white and Chánselus red, both worked biodynamically, are fairly good, particularly the white.

In Ribeiro one of the historic producers is Luis Anxo Rodríguez (pictured below), a celebrated and tireless winemaker. I love his wines. A Teixa 2015 has been, so far, one of the most memorable bottles I have drunk this year and is the only wine I rated without tasting it blind. Pepe Periero of Viñedos do Gabián is also doing a great job. His Xanledo leapt from 14.5 to 16 points in one .

Finally, Monterrei was well represented by the wines of José Luis Mateo of Quinta da Muradella (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/quinta-da-muradella-gorvia-blanco) . He has been doing admirable work since 1991 to promote the quality-driven wines in the region. He is obsessed with transmitting a sense of place in his wines and vinifies all his parcels separately. I reckon I can get lost in the array of cuvées he finally takes to the market.

I know there are many more producers to highlight and discover within Galicia, but the selection prepared by INGAVI is delighfully representative. I am really thankful to them. The tasting was perfectly organised and prepared, with very accurate tasting temperatures and perfect service. The headquarters of the organisation, in the magnificient Cidade de las Culturas, an oversized but spectacular cultural centre in de Compostela, are almost exaggeratedly comfortable and attractive, as you can see from the image at the top of this article.

The 48 wines are grouped by colour/style and presented in the order I tasted them but you can change the order within the groups.

Order by default

RED WINES

Somoza, O Tesouro Albarello 2016 Valdeorras (/tastings/view/623075)

Viña Somoza is part of the ‘Cuatro Monos’ project based in Sierra de Gredos (a mountain range in central Spain), formed by four friends: Javier Garcia, Laura Robles, David Velasco and David Moreno. 100% Brancellao – also known as Albarello. Vines are grown at 550 m elevation surrounded by a grove. Whole bunches are selected and processed on the same day. Long and cold prior to wild yeast fermentation. Aged for 12 months in 400- and 500- litre French oak barrels. No stirring is done. Limited production of 1,000 bottles. Tasted blind. Pale ruby colour. On the nose, very delicate with a touch of violets and a herbal lift. It has a soft fruit character with little extract. Very light in body but deeply aromatic. It makes me think of some of Jura’s wine. It is a remarkable wine, ethereal in style. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2017-2020 17 (/tastings/view/623075)

Viña Meín, Tinto Atlántico 2015 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623076)

Caíño, Brancellao and a small percentage of Sousón from a single plot. The owner, Javier Alén, is a non-conformist who is always pushing the limits and he counts on the team of Comando G (from Sierra de Gredos) to support his vision. Grapes and stems are fermented with ambient yeasts in French oak casks. 18 months' ageing in one-year-old French oak barrels of 500 litres. 2,670 bottles produced. Tasted blind. It is very penetrating on the nose with a very ripe aspect. It shows plums and has a slightly tart, earthy and meaty note to it. The nose evokes ripeness of fruit but the palate shows a sharp acidity. The wine has the typical roughness associated with Caíño. The meaty character is slightly hiding the fruit. This is an idiosyncratic wine within Ribeiro. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623076)

Fedellos do Couto Bastarda 2016 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623077)

100% Bastarda, also known as Merenzao. 15- to 70-year-old vines on slate soils. Whole grapes with stalks are fermented in stainless-steel tanks after a gentle maceration. Wine is transferred to French oak barrels where it remains for 12 months. Organic farming based on biodynamic principles. Winery created in 2013 by four young people in Ribeira Sacra, however the wine is not under the appellation. Fedellos in Galician translates as naughty and Couto is the name of the estate (Pazo de Couto). Tasted blind. This wine makes me salivate! Sharp and deep acidity accompanied by a varietal purity. Vibrant freshness. Dark fruit, lots of spices, gunpowder and earth. The tannins are firm but still delicate. If you like vivaciousness in your glass this is an electrifying option. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2017-2022 17 (/tastings/view/623077)

Forjas del Salnés, Goliardo Espadeiro 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623078)

45-year-old Espadeiro vines at 10 m above sea level. The project of Rodrigo Mendez (nephew of Gerardo Mendez from Do Ferreiro) in the Salnés Valley has been an inspiration for lots of producers within Rías Baixas. For the red wines he counts on the collaboration of maverick winemaker Raúl Pérez. Hand-harvested grapes are destemmed before fermentation occurs in stainless steel. Malolactic conversion followed by 12 months’ maturation in wooden barrels of 225 and 500 litres (fourth and tenth use). Small production limited to 600 bottles. Tasted blind. Deep ruby colour. It has a black fruit impact showing lots of dark small berries and cranberries. It is full of youthfulness and vibrancy. The acidity is high and combines well with the delicate tannins, providing a vertical and juicy sensation on the palate. The wine is refreshing and a bit stemmy but has a promising future, time will make it more integrated but the quality is there already. (FC)

12% Drink 2017-2022 16.5 (/tastings/view/623078)

Quinta da Muradella, Viticultura de Montaña 2012 Monterrei (/tastings/view/623079)

Blend of different local grapes. Vineyards are located at 700 m elevation along the border with . Organic farming. A project managed by José Luis Mateo, the leading producer in the Monterrei appellation. Tasted blind. Extreme delicacy in the glass and still youthful for a 2012. The nose shows dried flowers and sweet red fruit. It has a sort of warmness and softness. On the palate, it is refined, integrated and mellow and has a soft acidity. It is long and refined, seductive yet approachable. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2014-2020 16.5 (/tastings/view/623079)

Prádio, BRZ 2014 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623080)

Brancellao. Vineyards are on steep sloped terraces in Ribeira Sacra (although the wine is outside of the appellation). Fermentation took place in stainless-steel tanks with eight months’ maturation in French oak barrels of 300 litres. Slight filtration, minimal SO2. Biodynamic farming. Tasted blind. The nose is really minty and refreshing, it also shows dark berries and spices such as black pepper and juniper. I particularly like the delicate tannins. On the palate, it has a leathery touch. Very ethereal, gentle and a bit angular but with a superb complexity. What a surprise; a producer to follow. (FC)

13% Drink 2016-2022 17 (/tastings/view/623080)

Viñedos do Gabián, Xanledo 2016 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623081)

60% Caíño Longo and 40% Brancellao. Vines grown on ‘Sábrego’ soils composed of granitic sand. Fermentation was carried out separately with native yeasts (grapes and stems). Maceration lasted 40 days with a subsequent ageing of 11 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. Production of 3,800 bottles. Tasted blind. Pepe Pereiro has progressed greatly with this wine. The 2016 is more vibrant than past and has lots of herbal notes, wild fruits and medicinal aromas. It is on the paler and more delicate side of Galicia. It has delicate layers of tannins and a slightly sweet finish. Vivid but still in balance. It is a lovely delicate wine. (FC)

12% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623081)

Quinta da Muradella, Gorvia 2015 Monterrei (/tastings/view/623082)

Mainly Mencía blended with a small share of Bastardo and Caíño Redondo. Long maceration followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks, 50% whole bunches. After maturation in the same tanks the wine is moved into used barrels of 300 and 500 litres to finish ageing. Produced by José Luis Mateo. Tasted blind. It is a delicate Mencía perfectly accompanied by layers of soft fruit. The wine lingers and the palate is harmonious. The lively acidity is well integrated, a superbly balanced wine. The wine has a meaty touch and finishes with a firm texture. A great bottle of Mencía. (FC) 13% Drink 2017-2022 17 (/tastings/view/623082)

Ponte da Boga, Porto de Lobos 2015 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623083)

100% Brancellao from a plot called Porto de Lobos. Vines grow on soils of slate and schist on steep terraces. ‘Heroic ’ based on integrated agriculture. Aged for a few months in used barrels. The outstanding winemaker Dominique Roujou de Boubée is advising the winery. Tasted blind. It is a soft and delicate wine, metaphorically burgundian in style, with a layer of fresh wild fruits followed by dried flowers and touch of earth. The wine has balance and depth. I like the delineation on the palate with the totally integrated tannins. Quite a complex and intriguing wine. Surprisingly open and ready for its age. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2022 16.5 (/tastings/view/623083)

Guímaro, Finca Pombeirás 2015 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623084)

Mencía-based blend. Almost 70-year-old vineyards from a single estate known as Finca Pombeiras, grown on terraces in a steep area (50% gradient). After foot-treading, whole clusters start a spontaneous fermentation which lasts 50 days in truncated-cone wooden tanks. Aged for 12–14 months in 225-litre French oak barrels. Traditional and organic farming. Production around 500 bottles. Tasted blind. The Finca Pombeiras from this leading producer in Ribeira Sacra is always richer and fuller than the average Mencías from the region. It has a meaty nose, a touch of tartness and very ripe black fruit on the nose. Very corporeal and portentous on the palate with an intense fruit charge. Broad rather than long with a bitter and herbal finish. You can feel the concentration of the fruit on your palate. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2017-2022 17 (/tastings/view/623084)

Albamar, O Esteiro 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623085)

Mencía with a small proportion of Caíño and Espadeiro. Family-run winery located in Val do Salnés. 20% of the hand-harvested grapes are destemmed. Spontaneous fermentation with a further eight months’ maturation in French oak barriques. Unfiltered and unclarified. Tasted blind. Xurxo Alba is a thrilling winemaker; his whites are among some of the best in Galicia. However, on this occasion, the presented seems a bit green with a leafy character that does not let the fruit shine. The wine shows a slight underripeness. I love the style and the intention behind the wine; low alcohol, verticality, vivacity and little tannin. However the green notes are dominating the overall balance. (FC)

11.5% Drink 2017-2020 15 (/tastings/view/623085)

Daterra Viticultores, Azos do Pobo 2016 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623086)

A blend of Mouratón, Gran Negro, Garnacha Tintorera, Mencía, Merenzao and other undisclosed varieties. Laura Lorenzo started her own bodega in 2015 after working for Dominio do Bibei. 80- to 120-year-old vines in the Ribeira Sacra area, some of them ungrafted. The soil is clay with a substantial presence of slates and schists. Organic farming and some biodynamic principles. Destemmed grapes were foot-trodden, followed by fermentation in open-topped used casks of 225 and 500 litres. Matured for 11 months in used 225-litre barrels. Minimum intervention. Tasted blind. The fruit character is ripe: plums, sweet black fruit and Mediterranean herbs. The fruit extract is great, sweet and rounded on the palate with totally mellow tannins. On the ripe side of Galician wines and extremely well delineated. The balanced acidity provides depth and energy. The palate is pure, multi-layered and deep. Profound and fresh, full of savoury fruit. I am impressed by this wine. (FC)

12% Drink 2017-2022 18 (/tastings/view/623086)

Algueira, Pizarra 2014 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623087)

100% Mencía from a patch called Parcela Carballocovo. Up to 30-year-old vineyards on sloped terraces of slate with a southern exposure. Hand-harvested grapes, fermentation in truncated- cone shape tanks, stalks are kept during the process. Prolonged post-fermentative maceration with a further 12 months’ ageing in French oak barrels. Tasted blind. The 2014 Pizarras is great. It preserves the delicate style but the fruit is really alive. On the nose, oak aromas are noticeable but a soft red fruit and stony sensation really shines. It is slightly warmer than past vintages but still delicious. Long and subtle with integrated tannins and a touch of cherry brandy on the back palate. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2017-2022 17.5 (/tastings/view/623087)

Envínate, Lousas Parcela Camino Novo 2016 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623088) 90% Mencía and 10% Garnacha Tintorera. ‘Lousas’ is the name of a particular slate soil in the sub-areas of Ribeira do and Amandi. Whole bunches were trodden by foot before fermentation with wild yeasts was carried out. Aged for 12 months in used French barrels of 300 and 400 litres. No fining or filtration. ‘Envínate’ is the venture of Laura Ramos, José Martinez, Roberto Santana and Alfonso Torrente. A crew of four in love with viticulture, making wines throughout Spain with a remarkable result in areas such as the Canary Islands and Galicia. Tasted blind. Extremely refreshing and vivid on the palate: wild dark berries, cherries, tar and a peppery finish. It is racy, appetisingly dry and a very good expression of Ribeira Sacra’s regionality. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2017-2022 16.5 (/tastings/view/623088)

Cume do Avia, Dos Canotos 2017 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623089)

Single varietal of Caíño Longo. This is a project managed by three cousins who are restoring an old managed in the past by their grandfather. Tasted blind. I like the delineation and the non-extractive style of the wine. It possesses a remarkable and deep acidity. However, on the aromatics it seems slightly green with a faded fruit character. (FC)

14% Drink 2017-2019 15 (/tastings/view/623089)

Xose Lois Sebio , Super Héroe 2015 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623090)

Unknown varieties. A pre-ferment cold maceration lasts one week before fermentation in open tanks of 1,500 litres, gentle punching down is done. Manual screw press. Malolactic conversion starts in tanks and is finished in barrels. Personal project of Xose Lois Sebio, who is also the technical director and oenologist of Coto de Gomariz winery. Tasted blind.

Very sweet scent showing ripe red fruit, liquorice and black olives. On the warm side of Galicia. The tannins are firm but well accompanied by the fruit. It has a minty and spicy lift on the back palate. The concentration of fruit is really noticeable. (FC)

14% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623090)

Forjas del Salnés, Goliardo Finca Genoveva 2015 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623091)

Caíño grapes from century-old vineyards. Spontaneous fermentation in chestnut casks. Forjas do Salnés is the small, family-run winery of Rodrigo Méndez who is assisted by the well-known oenologist (and friend) Raúl Pérez. Tasted blind. Forjas do Salnés is a leading producer in Rías Baixas and is an inspiration for other wineries. I have enjoyed and bought their wines for many years and I think it is a winery with a good reputation. However, the Finca Genoveva did not show the full potential during the blind tasting. The green and vegetal notes dominated, it also showed a dried-leaf character with the fruit fading into secondary aromas. Low in tannins and a sharp-edged acidity. (FC)

12% Drink 2017-2020 15 (/tastings/view/623091)

Dominio do Bibei, Lacima 2015 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623092)

Mencía-based blend with other varieties like Brancellao, Mouratón and Sousón. Vineyards between 50- to 100-years-old at an elevation which ranges from 300 m up to 700 m. Fermentation begins in open wooden barrels of 500 litres with a subsequent transfer to 300-litre barrels in order to continue with malolactic conversion. Aged for 19 months in French oak barrels followed by 16 months’ maturation in bottle. Tasted blind. The wine smells like a natural, herbal expectorant, really fragrant and aromatic with notes of After Eights. It is superbly well-made wine. It lingers with force and elegance. Totally balanced and with deliciously mellow tannins. It is a complex wine with oak slightly dominating but still with an outstanding delineation and depth. Pure hedonism. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2018-2024 18 (/tastings/view/623092)

Algueira, Risco 2013 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623093)

Single varietal wine of the indigenous Galician grape Merenzao. Low yields. Must is subjected to a prolonged cold maceration before fermentation. Aged for 11 months in French oak barrels. The Algueira winery is located in the middle of an old chestnut and oak forest, on the slopes looking towards the River Sil. Tasted blind. Extremely refined, delicate, soft and deep. It is herbal with a touch of violet and delicious ripe red fruit aromas. I love the delineation it has, lingering with elegance. The most delicate and sophisticated face of Galician wine. Bravo! (FC)

13% Drink 2015-2022 18 (/tastings/view/623093)

Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vazquez, A Torna Dos Pasás 2012 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623094)

Brancellao, , Caíño Longo and Caíño Redondo. Small winery working with responsible viticulture with a capacity of 20,000 litres. Fermentation and traditional maceration at 28-30 ºC. Luis A Rodríguez Vázquez is a non-conformist and a leading winemaker. Tasted blind. Very texturised and rounded for a Galician wine. Herbal and ripe but still refreshing. It is firm but elegant with a savoury and meaty touch. It has a noticeable fresh fruit charge. Very intense delineation and a peppery finish. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623094)

Silice, Finca Lobeiras 2015 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623095)

Although this wine is outside of the appellation, Silice Viticultores are within the Ribeira Sacra area. After 16 months in barrels used several times, the wine rests for some months in bottle. Tasted blind. Very open and delicate nose showing floral notes, sweet red fruit and a complex earthy touch. The wine flows with elegance, it is intense and very long. It has mellowed and has deliciously soft tannins. The wine shares vibrant acidity with juicy fruit. The quality is totally there, a remarkable wine within the flight. The price of €90 positions it as one of the most expensive options within Galicia. (FC)

12% Drink 2017-2022 €90 18 (/tastings/view/623095)

Eulogio Pomares, Carralcoba 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623096)

Caíño Tinto. Open-tank fermentation with a subsequent 12 months’ maturation in chestnut foudres. Organic. This is the personal adventure of Eulogio Pomares, who also shares the Zarate winery with his brothers. Tasted blind. Unmistakably Galician, it is full of freshness and has a penetrating acidity. Vivid and wild palate with a savoury, meaty touch. Not perfect; the tannins and acidity are marked – but very delicious. (FC)

11.5% Drink 2017-2022 17 (/tastings/view/623096)

Castro Candaz , A Boca do Demo 2015 Ribeira Sacra (/tastings/view/623097)

Mencía aged in chestnut foudres. Two great winemakers coming together for a very interesting project. 2,500 bottles produced. Tasted blind. Without discussion, this is one of the most deep and elegant wines that Galicia has to offer. Superbly delineated, delicate, refined with caressing tannins and almost texture free. Intense flavours of dark fruit, gunpowder and earth. Very impressed by it! (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 18 (/tastings/view/623097) WHITE WINES

Pedralonga 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623098)

100% Albariño. 25-year-old vineyards, south facing. Yielding 6,500 kg/ha. After a spontaneous malolactic conversion on its lees, the wine waits until July to be bottled. Production of 30,000 bottles. Tasted blind. It is a herbal, stony and refreshing white. It has a crunchy acidity and a tight palate with a touch of creaminess on the back palate. Deep and delicate. It lingers energetically. It has a mineral expression rather than a fruit-driven character. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2017-2020 16.5 (/tastings/view/623098)

Viña Meín, Eiras Altas 2016 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623099)

Blend of 70% , 20% and 10% Albariño. Vineyards are located in San Clodio (400 m above sea level) on the characteristic ‘Sábrego’ soils (granite and schist). Vinified in 600- litre French oak barrels. Tasted blind.

The style is refreshing and aromatic with the oak almost unnoticeable. On the nose it shows peaches, fresh herbal notes and lemon. On the palate it is driven by freshness, it has vivacity and lots of grape fruit flavours. Very nice to drink. (FC)

12% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623099)

Fulcro 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623100)

Albariño from a single vineyard in the Val do Salnés sub-area, on granitic sandy soils. Fermentation took place in used barrels of 500 and 700 litres. The wine rests in the same barrels for 12 months. No malolactic. Organic. Production limited to 200 hl. Manuel Moldes is the person behind the label, a pioneer of respectful viticulture. Tasted blind. This is an enormous wine! It has a cutting-edge texture accompanied by a creaminess. Very pure, long and deep. A touch of toast, seaweed and lots of citrusy notes. It seems to be a wine directly harvested from the sea; a stream of freshness. It’s the first time I’ve come across Fulcro, but I really want to know the project better. A bargain for the €15 it costs. GV (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 €15 17.5 (/tastings/view/623100) Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vazquez, Viña de Martin Escolma 2013 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623101)

Blend of Treixadura, Albariño, Lado and Torrontés. Barrel fermentation followed by 12 months’ ageing. Tasted blind.

The wine has a very good structure and weight. Penetrating acidity and a toasty touch with mature aromas such as dry peaches, petrol and a herbal infusion. It is ideal for lovers of mature wine; lots of secondary characteristics. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623101)

Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vazquez, A Teixa 2015 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623102)

Blend of Treixadura, and Albariño. Fermented and aged in 2,300-litre oak foudres. I had the opportunity to taste this wine during a dinner, I was so impressed that I made a note and held onto it until the time came to write this article. This is the only wine that has not been tasted blind. The wine has a lovely salty scent throughout the palate; it is quite intense and flavourful. Tight, with a mineral expression but with enough fruit and texture. Classy. (FC)

13% Drink 2018-2020 17.5 (/tastings/view/623102)

Ribeiras de Armea, Branco Lexítimo 2014 IGP Betanzos (/tastings/view/623103)

100% Branco Lexitimo also known as Albarín Branco. Fermented and subsequently aged for a minimum of 11 months in used oak. About five months’ maturation in stainless-steel tanks before bottling. Betanzos is located on the east side of A Coruña, at one end of the Altas. Winery established in 2000. Tasted blind. The nose is lemony, floral and herbal with aromas of: cut grass, dill, creamy fennel and white flowers. It has a green acidity with a hint of dairy, complimented by an oily sensation. It is a complex wine in a very good place displaying a kerosene note on the back palate. (FC)

12% Drink 2016-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623103)

Rafael Palacios, As Sortes 2016 Valdeorras (/tastings/view/623104)

Single varietal of Godello from six different plots, strains of an average of 40 years. Main soils are granitic and sandy (fine to coarse sands defined as sandy loam). Tasted blind. This is an immense Godello showing an ample and creamy palate, held together by balancing acidity. Very good winemaking showing an impressive texture and construction. Really firm and a cut above the rest in terms of concentration. (FC)

14% Drink 2017-2020 17.5 (/tastings/view/623104)

Quinta da Muradella, Alanda 2016 Monterrei (/tastings/view/623105)

Blend of white indigenous varieties. No chemicals (fertilisers, herbicides or plant disease products) are used. Natural procedures followed to preserve and respect the environment. Tasted blind. The wine has a mineral expression rather than a fruity character. It is delicate and soft, nicely made and well rounded. Very easy to drink with a touch of creaminess and a stony sensation on the back palate. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623105)

Albamar, Albamar 2017 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623106)

100% Albariño. Vineyards on terraces towards the Umia River in Ría de Arousa, on sandy and clay soils. Bodegas Albamar is a family-owned winery founded 25 years ago in . Albamar, which belongs to the O Salnés sub-area, was their first wine to be launched. In 2006, one of the sons – Xurxo Alba Padín – took the reins and made wines with personality and unique character. Tasted blind. Wow! This is why I like tasting blind as much as I do. Albamar is the entry-level product that Xurxo offers and it costs less than €15 retail in Spain. In the tasting it revealed a great depth and minerality. It is on the green side showing a vivid freshness but really pure. On the palate it is deep, stony and steely – sharp in the best sense. Do not imagine this wine as a textbook Albariño, the fruit is hidden and displaced by saltiness. Would love to make it a wine of the week! GV (FC)

13% Drink 2018-2022 €15 17 (/tastings/view/623106)

Coto de Gomariz, Finca O Figueiral 2015 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623107)

Blend of Treixadura, Lado, Albariño, Godello, Loureira and up to 12 more different varieties. Fermented and aged for 10 months in 500-litre French oak barrels. The principles of Masanobu Fukuoka are followed (natural agriculture), mixed with traditional viticulture, biodynamic and ecological techniques. At the turn of the millennium, Ricardo Carreiro Álvarez took charge of the family-run business. Later in 2001, Xose Lois Sebio joined him as technical director and oenologist. Tasted blind. The nose gives lots of candied lemon aromas and a touch of toast. On the palate, it is ample and broad with a creamy texture and depth. Impressive smoothness but a bit more introverted on the aromatics. It is a texturised style. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2017-2020 16.5 (/tastings/view/623107)

Nanclares Prieto, Crisopa 2016 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623108)

100% Albariño. Artisanal winemaking in the Rías Baixas area, the grapes are foot-trodden. Skin maceration takes places at the same time as alcoholic fermentation, conducted by their own yeasts. Aged on its lees in used 550-litre French oak barrels for 10 months. No fining or filtering, minimum sulphur addition. Tasted blind. It is an orange-wine style with a deep golden colour with orange tinges. It has oxidative aromas such as orange peel, honey and dried stone fruit. It is an idiosyncratic wine within Rías Baixas. I like how the salty and vivid acidity combines with the oxidative character; however I would prefer a less extreme vinification. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 15 (/tastings/view/623108)

Pazo de Señorans, Selección de Añada 2009 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623109)

100% Albariño. 45-year-old vines from a vineyard called Los Bancales. Maceration with skins prior to alcoholic fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with subsequent 30 months’ ageing on its own lees. Bottle maturation for 12 months minimum. Tasted blind. The wine has a herbal lift and touch of tisane, together with an intense citrus character. Very refined on the aromatics. On the palate it is perfection, superbly delineated and without any edges. Crazily youthful for a 2009. Long and mineral in expression. Vintage after vintage, this wine earns a deserved admiration. (FC)

13% Drink 2014-2020 17.5 (/tastings/view/623109)

Pombal A Lanzada, As Bateas 2013 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623110)

Even if this wine in particular is out of DO Rías Baixas, the winery is Rías Baixas through and through. This family is dedicated to the rafts, called ‘bateas’ in Galicia, where they raise mussels in Ría de Arousa. They own 0.85 ha of Albariño vines, worked organically since 2014. Biodynamic practices are also carried out. Dominique Roujous de Boubée and Laura Montero are assisting with the winemaking. Tasted blind. It is a great example of the flinty and steely face of Albariño. It is very intense and has cutting acidity as well as being quite rich in texture. Very complex, it keeps revealing aromas such as citrus, green fruit and herbal notes. It is very satisfying and, taking it to a personal level, totally suited to my palate. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2015-2020 17 (/tastings/view/623110)

Quinta da Muradella, Sábrego 2013 Monterrei (/tastings/view/623111)

Blend of white indigenous varieties (principally Doña Blanca). Artisanal winemaking. No chemicals (fertilisers, herbicides or plant-disease products) are used, natural procedures followed to preserve and respect the environment. Tasted blind. This is a complex wine; herbal, fresh, stony, citrusy and touch of cream. I really like the expressive nose it has. The palate is very intense, creamy but with enough energy. However, it has some oxidative notes on the back palate. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2015-2019 16.5 (/tastings/view/623111)

Lagar de Pintos, Granuja de Grano a Grano 2015 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623112)

Albariño from vineyards over 35-years-old. Grapes destemmed grape by grape manually. Spontaneous fermentation. Ageing was carried out in French oak barrels of 228-litres for 21 months. One year's bottle maturation before release. Four generations have participated in building a philosophy based on looking after the environment. Tasted blind. The nose is stony and steely followed by cream, lemon and pear notes. Superb combination between acidity and cream. This is a well-made wine, pure and tight. Very good delineation – all in balance. (FC)

13% Drink 2016-2020 17 (/tastings/view/623112)

Entre os Ríos, Komokabras 2015 IGP Barbanza-Iria (/tastings/view/623113)

Entre os Ríos winery is located on the slopes of the Barbanza peninsula in Pobra do Caramiñal, on the north side of Ría de Arosa (the geographical centre of Rías Baixas). Francisco Crusat was the founder of this winery, who started to vinify for his own consumption. Komokabras is the fruit of his son José Crusat's adventure. Minimum intervention in the vineyards. All the fermentations are carried out in stainless steel with native yeasts, sulphur use is limited. Total production of Adega Entre os Ríos ranges between 15,000 and 25,000 bottles per year. Tasted blind. Slightly oxidative on the aromatics showing touches of dry flowers and cider. The palate is well defined and tight. It has soft, sweet fruit notes on the back palate. However, the freshness is revealed and displays lots of citrus notes and a lingering crisp sensation. Very remarkable acidity but still keeps the balance. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2016-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623113)

Rafael Palacios, O Soro 2014 Valdeorras (/tastings/view/623114)

Godello. O Soro was born of a single plot that caught Rafa's attention when he arrived in Valdeorras. The vineyard is located to the north of Val do Bibei. Soils are granitic with a substantial presence of finer sands, large amounts of rocks of metamorphic origin and quartz shales. Fermented and aged in 500-litre oak barrels. Tasted blind. The wine has extra concentration and depth. It is an impressive stream of fresh fruit, anise like aromas and a stony character. The oak is superbly integrated giving texture and a touch of spice. This is a seamless wine full of energy. I am really impressed by its purity and delineation. Is this the best Godello? (FC)

14% Drink 2016-2020 18.5 (/tastings/view/623114)

Gerardo Méndez, Do Ferreiro Albariño 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623115)

100% Albariño from different parcels. 45-year-old vines on red slate soils. Vineyards are in Adina, a parish belonging to town hall. Destemming prior to maceration with skins. Alcoholic fermentation is carried out in stainless-steel tanks with a selected starter yeast. Lees stirring throughout the process. The family estate ‘La Casa Grande’ is in the heart of the Salnés area and has documented viticulture dating back to 1850. Currently represented by Gerardo Méndez Lázaro. Tasted blind. What a penetrating wine! The freshness is at its peak providing a lively profile. The wine is full of energy showing a vertical cutting edge and a bitter finish accompanied by a voluminous texture. This is a magnificent wine showing kerosene, sweet lemon, spice, yellow plums and pears. I love the firm richness it has. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2017-2020 17.5 (/tastings/view/623115)

Iria Otero Mazoy, Sacabeira 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623116) Albariño. Iria Otero, winemaker and entrepreneur, was studying pharmaceuticals when she spent a in and decided to study in . Since then, she has been involved with more than 16 harvests in Rías Baixas and the rest of Galicia. Her most recent project is ‘Iria Otero Vinos con Memoria’, which is only produced in small quantities. Tasted blind. The wine has a clear fruit character. It shows lots of citrus aromas such as lime, lemon and a lovely grapefruit note. Very tight on the palate showing a refreshing acidity and a fruit driven quality. Well made and expressive, on the fruity side. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623116)

Zárate, El Palomar Albariño 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623117)

El Palomar is a 0.36 ha plot where centenary vines of Albariño settle on one of the oldest estates documented in Rías Baixas. Hand-harvested grapes go through a sorting table before destemming. Long and soft in order to get low yields. Fermentation took place in 2,200- litre French oak foudres, no racking until malolactic conversion (started spontaneously). Matured for three months on its fine lees. Zárate is a family estate located in Meaño, Val do Salnés. Vineyards are surrounding a 'Pazo' (traditional Galician house), built in the sixteenth century and restored during the eighteenth century. Their history began in 1707, seven generations later, the tradition continues in the hands of Eulogio Pomares who has been in charge since 2000. In the 1950s, Zárate was a pioneer of Albariño. Tasted blind. It is really refreshing but it does not lose its depth and intensity. It has a mineral expression and lots of delicate citrus notes, intense and tight on the palate and well supported by a touch of creaminess. Very expressive and lively. It has a promising future and I would love to see it again in the next two or three years. (FC)

12.5% Drink 2017-2025 17 (/tastings/view/623117)

Quinta da Muradella 2015 Monterrei (/tastings/view/623118)

Treixadura. No chemicals are used. Fermented in oak foudres. José Luis Mateo is the man behind this wine, a respected and admired winemaker. Tasted blind. The wine has an intriguing nose showing kerosene notes and a stony character accompanied by green apples and dried flowers. It is very texturised and broad on the palate with an intense finish and touch of bitterness. Quite enormous in the mouth but slightly less refined than the magnificent 2010 that still remains in my memories as one of the greatest wines ever. (FC)

13.5% Drink 2016-2020 16.5 (/tastings/view/623118) Lagar de Pintos Albariño 2016 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623119)

Hand-picked grapes from seven different plots, each vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks. After a spontaneous fermentation, wine remains on its lees for six months. Production around 35,000 bottles. Fourth generation of winemakers, focused on creating a balance between winemaking and environment. Tasted blind. This is a delicate and lovely Albariño. Well made. It fulfils all the expectations for a youthful and drinkable Albariño. Refreshing and vivid. It will please all. (FC)

13% Drink 2016-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623119)

Agualevada, Ollos de Roque 2015 Vino de Mesa (/tastings/view/623120)

Blend of Treixadura, Albariño, Godello, Lado and Loureira. Micro project (2.5 ha) from an up- and-coming producer called Iago Garrido. Grapes are trodden by foot. Alcoholic fermentation starts in stainless-steel tanks. Wine is transferred to 400-litre amphorae to complete fermentation. It is then aged on its fine lees for seven months. Winery outside of the Ribeiro appellation, but located within the area. Working on biodynamic. Tasted blind. The wine has complexity; it shows saffron notes, dried fruits, kerosene and orange peel. It is ample on the palate with a chalky texture. Slightly oxidative and tart on the back palate. (FC)

13% Drink 2017-2020 16 (/tastings/view/623120)

SWEET WINE

Antonio Míguez Amil, Para Di Pé 2013 Ribeiro (/tastings/view/623121)

Brancellao, Caíño Longo and Sousón. Ribeiro ‘Tostado’ wine, naturally sweet made with raisined grapes. Aged in wooden barrels. Tasted blind. Ruby colour with tawny hints. Very complex, it reminds me of a colheita port. Medium sweetness showing earthy notes, figs, prunes and dried leaves. It is very bitter on the back palate. Very unique and spicy. (FC)

14% Drink 2016-2023 15.5 (/tastings/view/623121)

SPARKLING WINE

Cabana das Bolboretas, Gorgola Brut Nature 2014 Rías Baixas (/tastings/view/623122) 100% Albariño from vineyards over 30 years old. Matured for more than 30 months in bottle. Personal project of a couple, who are grandchildren of winegrowers, in the area of Barro (Rías Baixas). Tasted blind. Youthful and fruit-driven style. It shows pleasurable aromas of peach, lemon and green apple. Very easy to drink, with a vivid sparkling sensation and a lively acidity. (FC)

11.8% Drink 2017-2020 15 (/tastings/view/623122)