Blue Ribbon Winner
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ALL ABOUT OSCAR FROM THE RED CARPET TO THE PARTIES. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 8, 2010 • $3.00 WWDAccessories/Innerwear/Legwear MONDAY Blue Ribbon Winner PARIS — John Galliano’s fall collection for Christian Dior had an English equestrian and libertine theme, expressed in divinely decadent horsey looks and romantic dishabille. Here, his bold, beribboned sweater coat, worn with a frothy silk dress. For more on the shows, see pages 4 to 14. Covering the Runways: Fur in Every Which Way A Major Trend for Fall By Katya Foreman PARIS — Nevermind global warming: Fur is back in vogue. Lush, long-haired furs have been omnipresent on runways in New York, Milan and now Paris, where Chanel’s show Tuesday — with a polar bear on the invitation — is expected to feature more fuzzy moments of the faux variety. Fur’s ferocious return has been met with a largely mute reaction from animal rights activists during the international collections, one exception being a raucous protest outside Jean Paul Gaultier’s show on Saturday. The accelerating fashion trend — from a run of fur or fur-trimmed outerwear at Oscar de la Renta, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Gucci and Balenciaga to furry footwear See Fur, Page15 PHOTO BY BY GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 8, 2010 WWD.COM Payless to Launch Beauty Component By Sophia Chabbott WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY PAYLESS SHOESOURCE WILL soon find out if customers have FASHION the same passion for lipstick and Paris Fashion Week rolls on with collections from body sprays as they do for shoes s 6 and accessories. Karl Lagerfeld, Celine, Viktor & Rolf, Comme des The footwear and accesso- Garçons and Jean Paul Gaultier ries mammoth, with 4,500 stores, GENERAL is gearing up to launch a beauty component to the business this fall 1 Fur is back in vogue. Lush, long-haired furs have through an alliance with Maesa been omnipresent on runways in New York, Milan Group. Terms of the deal were not and Paris. disclosed, but the firm called it a 2 Payless ShoeSource is gearing up to launch “multiyear arrangement.” a beauty component to the business this fall Payless Stores, with 1,500 through an alliance with Maesa Group. units, will introduce, starting Sept. 1, bath and body products 20 Giuseppe Zanotti has launched a collection of under the names Zoe & Zac and footwear and handbags exclusively for his Web Unforgettable Moments, linking site, which is overseen by Italian e-tailer Yoox. back to proprietary shoe and ac- ACCESSORIES: Saks Fifth Avenue today is cessory brands of the same names. 21 launching in-store shoe boutiques with new “Payless is really all about in- BEAUTY BEAT designs from emerging talent. spiring possibilities in fashion in footwear and accessories,” said LuAnn Via, chief executive officer of Payless, which is owned by 22 The U.S. Labor Department said apparel retailers Collective Brands. “We’ve had a lot of progress expanding our accessories line with handbags, sun- increased staffing levels in February for the glasses and hats [in 2009]. We feel that this is a product that our customers would appreciate as well.” second month in a row, hiring 7,200 workers. Beauty products will include a collection of up to 60 items such as lotions, creams, fragrances and EYE color for eyes, lips and nails. Prices will range from $2.99 to $19.99. Via said the beauty lines are geared to please women of all demographics. Payless tradition- 16 Complete coverage of the 82nd annual Academy ally targets mothers and daughters. It has not been decided if the firm’s designer collaborators in Awards, from the parties to the stars walking the shoes and accessories such as Alice & Olivia, Christian Siriano and Lela Rose would take part in Celine red carpet. the new category. While Via declined to offer sales projections, she expects the new initiative to be “a significant business” for the firm and that beauty will eventually be rolled out to the remaining 3,000 stores. Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................23 TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. Colorado Committee Votes Against Product Protection Bill WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. The House Judiciary Committee of the Colorado House of Representatives has voted down — by a VOLUME 199, NO. 49. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one seven-to-four bipartisan vote — a personal care products protection bill, according to executives at additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, the Washington-based Personal Care Products Council, which had vigorously opposed the measure and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: as unworkable and draconian. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; The vote ends the battle over this bill, although the industry group faces a flood of other propos- Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing als at the state and federal level. John Hurson, executive vice president of government affairs at offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, PCPC, said, “I don’t expect this to change the environment in a wholesale way. But it may start the Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North process of getting policy makers to focus on the science more so than in the past.” Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: He noted the bill originally banned in total the most minute trace quantities of elements thought Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/ wd. 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WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Sephora Shutting Hong Kong Shop WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED PARIS — Last Tuesday morning, Sephora invited shoppers in Hong Kong to use up their VIP points TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED in a 70 percent-off clearance sale. The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned perfumery chain MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. said it would be shuttering its store in the city at the end of this month. “Sephora made the decision to close its store in Hong Kong soon, whose location didn’t respond to the expectations of the brand,” said a Sephora spokeswoman in France. “To be sure, this decision does not put into question Sephora’s development strategy in Asia, and more particularly in China, where DAILY the brand knows tremendous success in Shanghai and Peking, as well as in the provincial towns.” The spokeswoman added Sephora today has 78 stores in Mainland China, and it plans to open its QUOTE I’m definitely getting 100th store there by the end of 2010. Sephora has been in China since 2005, when it opened its Shanghai location. sick of people “touching me. — Jennifer Weil and Jennifer Cardenas — Best Supporting Actress nominee” Anna Kendrick on the Oscars’ fashion frenzy. Henk Van der Mark Named Lauder President in France Page 18.