STATEMENT SEEKING PIECES ANSWERS THE AMERICAN STAR DIAMONDS, SAPPHIRES AND A NEW BOOK EXAMINES MADE IN THE USA AND THE AMERICAN EMERALDS STOOD OUT THE TORTURED LIVES MARKET’S STRENGTH WERE THE FOCUS AT THE IN THE FINE JEWELRY AND CREATIVITY OF LEE NEW YORK TEXTILE TRADE SHOWS. PAGE 6 COLLECTIONS UNVEILED ALEXANDER MCQUEEN DURING PARIS COUTURE WEEK. AND JOHN GALLIANO. PAGE 10 PAGE 4 AND 5

SERIES OF BUMPS Alibaba Under Pressure, But Ma Remains Upbeat

By CASEY HALL and ELLEN SHENG

JACK MA ISN’T worried. While a looming lawsuit, recent regulatory ker- fuffl e and lower-than-expected third-quarter earn- ings have many people wondering whether some of the shine has come off China’s e-commerce golden TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY child Alibaba, its founder and chief executive offi cer WWD remains upbeat. This, despite the fact that last week the company saw its market capitalization dive by $25 billion in a single day when third-quarter earn- ings fell short of Wall Street estimates. Revenue at the world’s largest e-commerce company rose 40 per- cent to $4.22 billion in the December quarter, short of the average estimate of $4.45 billion from analysts polled by Reuters. To Ma, things like the lawsuit, fi led in New York, present an opportunity to let the West better under- stand Alibaba’s business — and China. Block “We need to face it. We welcome it. It’s not a bad thing. This is an opportunity to show the West how Alibaba and China work,” he said in a talk in Hong Kong on Monday, adding that the Web giant’s legal team can handle it. Three The 23-page complaint that was fi led in Manhattan federal court Friday claimed Alibaba had violated securities laws by not raising regulatory concerns fl agged in a July meeting that company offi cials had with Chinese regulatory authorities. The suit was fi led Times against the company and named some offi cers as code- fendants, and came a day after Alibaba was slammed As he stamped c’est fi ni on by Chinese regulators in a “White Paper” released by the drawn-out pre-fall 2015 the State Administration of Industry and Commerce schedule, Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas (though the paper has since been removed from the SAIC’s website). The central government in Beijing Ghesquière took inspiration from had revealed in November a renewed focus on fi ghting the season’s go-to decade, the intellectual property rights violations and counterfeit Seventies, interpreting bohemian goods, and recent actions undertaken by SAIC show chic in lightweight layers. Key SEE PAGE 12 to the collection: a fl uid dress in three variations of silk crepe, worn over a ribbed From D&G to Lands’ End: turtleneck and paired with Marchionni Named CEO printed velvet COLLECTIONS ankle boots. PRE-FALL By DAVID MOIN For more, see IN A SURPRISING pairing, Lands’ End, a casual page 5. 2015 brand with an Americana appeal, has tapped Federica Marchionni, a European luxury executive who dresses to the nines, as its next chief executive offi cer. The announcement Monday raised eyebrows across the industry, given Marchionni’s image and her experience. It’s her fi rst ceo role, and a leap from her current job as president of Dolce & Gabbana USA. That business is estimated at between $100 million and $200 million in sales, whereas Lands’ End gener- ates more than $1.5 billion in revenues. Marchionni will succeed Edgar Huber as Lands’ End ceo on Feb. 17. Huber is expected to soon take a new job, in the retail and digital sector, possibly linked to a private equity fi rm. He was not available for comment. Huber’s biggest accomplishment at Lands’ End was April’s spin-off of the brand from Sears Holdings Corp. into a freestanding public company listed on the Nasdaq exchange. Sears bought Lands’ End for $1.9 billion in 2002. Huber, a former Liz Claiborne Inc. executive who had headed the Juicy Couture brand after a career spent mostly in the beauty busi- ness, had been ceo of Lands’ End since 2011. He’s also credited with making digital growth at Lands’ End a priority, as well as elevating the quality of the collec- tion; expanding the product range, including initia- tives in swimwear and launching activewear, and add- ing fi nancial disciplines. In the fourth quarter, the company experienced some fashion misses, weakness in cold-weather products, and PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE SEE PAGE 2 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 WWD.COM

Lands’ End Turns to D&G for CEO THE BRIEFING BOX {Continued from page one} urbane, and she dresses formally.” unfavorable currency exchange rates. Its steadily di- Josephine Linden, non-executive chairman of IN TODAY’S WWD minishing presence in Sears stores contributed to a Lands’ End, described Marchionni as a “multital- revenue decline. The company expects earnings for ented, visionary business leader with a complete the quarter ending Jan. 31 to decline to a range of $1.06 set of creative, strategic and analytical skills to to $1.16 a diluted share, down from $1.44 in the prior grow a multichannel apparel brand in a highly Karolina Gorzala year, and overall revenues to decline to between $505 competitive and evolving global environment.” is the subject of million and $515 million from their year-ago levels of Increasingly, retail brands have been making out- Model Call. $530 million. The consensus estimate was for earnings of-the-box hires, partly to bring fresh perspectives, For more, see of $1.38 a share on revenues of $542.2 million. The fi rm partly due to the industry’s lack of talent. WWD.com. does expect improvement in its fourth-quarter gross Lands’ End said while Marchionni was at Dolce margin — to between 43.8 percent and 44 percent from & Gabbana USA, revenues increased signifi cantly, 43.7 percent in the 2013 period. and she oversaw several key “The quarter was diffi cult openings — including the but the year was not so bad,” Federica Fifth Avenue flagship and said a fi nancial source close Marchionni units in Toronto, Chicago, to the company. “The two most Aspen and Boston. Earlier, diffi cult areas were currencies she was a global group di- and the business at Sears.” rector at Dolce & Gabbana, “With the successful leading business develop- completion of the spin-off ment for business units in OF WOMEN/360 MANAGEMENT PHOTO COURTESY of Lands’ End.…I have ac- more than 100 countries. complished what I came to Marchionni was also senior achieve at Lands’ End and vice president at the Ferrari I look forward to the com- division of Dolce & Gabbana. A looming lawsuit, recent regulatory kerfuffl e and lower-than- pany’s success in the future,” She joined the company in expected last-quarter earnings have many wondering whether Huber said. 2001. Earlier, she held prod- some of the shine has come off of Alibaba. PAGE 1 Sources noted that Huber uct marketing and sales jobs had been thinking of leaving at consumer technology and America’s ears were ringing at the recent Première Vision Lands’ End, which is head- telecommunications com- New York and Texworld USA trade shows held at Pier 92 and quartered in Dodgeville, panies such as Samsung, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. PAGE 1 Wisc., for some time to return Phillips and Ericsson. She to the East Coast, and that has a master’s degree in Via a partnership with Brand Assembly, YouTube Space is working under the Sears um- business administration hosting “The New Class,” a series of presentations that will be brella for about two-thirds and management from La held for six clients, during New York Fashion Week. PAGE 8 of his tenure until the brand Sapienza University of Rome went public last spring was and once taught a two-year Lululemon Athletica founder Chip Wilson has resigned course on brand expansion challenging for him. Lands’ from the company’s board, but will retain his stake in End said he resigned. and extension at Marangoni the yoga apparel fi rm. PAGE 8 Marchionni’s challenge Fashion School. Marchionni will be to continue to improve the product and was not available for comment Monday. brand image, and further digital and international Her appointment follows boardroom changes President Obama proposed opening new markets for U.S. growth. Due to its presence at Sears stores, Lands’ at Lands’ End late last year. Linden, a princi- exports and strengthening defenses against cyber attacks in the End has long held back from rolling out its own pal of Linden Global Strategies LLC, succeeded federal budget blueprint he submitted on Monday. PAGE 9 stores, but could decide to in the future. Elizabeth Darst Leykum as chairman. Leykum re- As president of Dolce & Gabbana USA, mains a director and became chair of the nominat- Max Mara’s new architecture-focused boutique in the Miami Marchionni was most involved in the wholesale ing and corporate governance committee. Edward Design District is another testament to the city’s rise as a distribution and retail sides of the business. “She’s Lampert, chairman and ceo of Sears, is neither crossroads for culture. PAGE 9 very intelligent and represented Dolce & Gabbana a director nor offi cer of Lands’ End, but by vir- very well,” said a retail source. “But it may be tue of his personal holdings and those through Dana Thomas’ new book, “Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall tough for her living in Wisconsin. It’s farm country. RBS Partners, an affiliate of Lampert’s ESL of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano,” tells more about the She also never had any engagement in this kind of Investments, he’s its largest shareholder. lives of the two chronicled designers — the backstory. PAGE 10 casual product. She’s very Upper East Side, Italian, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ARNOLD J. KARR The National Magazine Awards were held Monday night at the Marriott Marquis in Times Square, where New York Mag and The L Capital Invests in Ba&sh Global Expansion New Yorker walked away with three Ellies each. PAGE 11 French cartoonist Tiffany Cooper has been invited by Karl Market sources estimate Ba&sh revenues at 35 Lagerfeld to create a capsule collection featuring her drawings By MILES SOCHA million euros, or $42.5 million. L Capital cashed out with Sandro/Maje in 2013, of the designer and his famous pet Choupette. PAGE 11 PARIS — Affordable luxury continues to attract in- when American private equity giant Kohlberg vestor attention. Kravis Roberts & Co. snapped up SMCP Group from Giorgio Armani and GQ magazine are teaming up to fete Echoing its 2010 investment in contemporary L Capital and Florac for an estimated 650 million the Grammys with an after party at the Hollywood Athletic brands Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot, L Capital euros, or $790.1 million at current exchange rates. Club on Sunday night. PAGE 11 said Monday it would acquire 50 percent of French L Capital noted that Barbara Boccara and Sharon contemporary fashion chain Ba&sh. Krief, who founded Ba&sh in 2003, would remain The private equity fund — sponsored by LVMH with the company alongside investor Groupe Vog, ON WWD.COM Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Group Arnault — which retains a 50 percent stake. Boccara and Krief said it would partner with the founding managers are to comanage the company with executives Dan MODEL CALL: WWD sat down with Polish model Karolina to accelerate Ba&sh’s international expansion. Arrouas of Groupe Vog and Pierre-Arnaud Grenade, Gorzala to discuss her European career and hopes of Ba&sh counts about 60 boutiques and shops-in-shop, most recently an executive at Princesse Tam Tam. making it big Stateside. For more, see WWD.com. mostly in France. It recently expanded into the U.K. Groupe Vog, cofounded by Arrouas, has funded and Belgium, and is slated to open stores in the coming fashion companies including Eleven Paris, Ella months in Spain, Switzerland and Denmark. The brand Luna and PromoWorld. also wholesales its approachable, bohemian chic for L Capital invests mainly in personal care, selec- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA women to about 300 specialty stores, the company said. tive retailing and home equipment, and has invest- WWD.com/social Financial terms were not disclosed and the deal ed in fashion companies including Gant, Giuseppe @ is subject to clearance by antitrust authorities. Zanotti, Dondup, Pepe Jeans and Hackett. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 22. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Guess Declares Victory, Gucci to Appeal Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. PARIS — Guess Inc. declared “complete victory” damages. According to Guess, the Paris court in- Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian in its ongoing trademark battle with Gucci after a validated three of Gucci’s “G” trademarks, mean- addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Paris court Friday shot down Gucci’s infringement ing Gucci cannot claim exclusive use to those INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at suit against the Los Angeles-based jeanswear firm. marks any longer. wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Guess said the judgment, handed down by the “I continue to believe strongly that all these Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address Tribunal de Grande Instance, absolved it of “every legal battles are a complete waste of time and this within one year. 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Couture Jewelry Channels Nature’s Hues heads and fi ns made from moonstone, the de-

By JOELLE DIDERICH signer’s gemstone of choice, their bodies set with Paraiba tourmalines and tsavorites to imitate the PARIS — The fine jewelry creations unveiled during Paris Couture changing color of scales. They jumped against Week were as distinctive as the dresses on the catwalk. drops of blue sapphire that were faceted under- Designers homed in on house codes with pieces that trum- neath to evoke the play of light on water. Another peted their provenance. Diamonds remained ubiquitous, but piece, the 18-karat gold Great Horned Owl ring, green and blue stones — in particular emeralds and sapphires was set with star ’’ sapphires, Ceylon sapphires, — also made a strong showing, as organic designs complement- diamonds and emeralds, and featured another ed the fl oral embellishment used on clothes. signature on the bottom — a granulation inspired Many leading jewelers sat out the season, having present- by medieval archers’ rings. ed extensive collections during the Biennale des Antiquaires in “That sense of discovery and detail is some- September. There were only three on the offi cial haute joaillerie thing that I love and my collectors seem to appreci- calendar: Boucheron, Chanel and newcomer Chopard. They were ate, too,” said St. Clair, noting that six of the pieces joined by a host of brands staging presentations, including Cindy — priced between $175,000 and $950,000 — have Chao, Dauphin, De Beers, Elie Top, Sabine G. and Temple St. Clair. already been sold. “I always said when I was in my Chanel showed a 33-piece collection, Les Intemporels de 20s and started this business that you need to be Chanel, centered on four familiar themes: Comet, Ribbon, older to do the really serious pieces, and I think Camellia and Lion. All have some link to founder Gabrielle “Coco” I’ve arrived at that point,” she added, noting that Chanel, who presented a one-off diamond jewelry line in the line took three years of work but represented 1932 that continues to inspire present-day collections. almost 30 years of relationships, including with the

“We wanted to reinterpret our icons, in particular Chanel’s Camélia Gansé bracelet. ▲ artisans in Florence who make the pieces. as an initiation into haute joaillerie for some of our

clients who buy smaller pieces, or new clients who ▲ A ring by Sabine G. come to us,” said Benjamin Comar, international Temple St. Clair’s Great Horned Owl ring. ▲ director of Chanel Fine Jewelry. “We wanted a line That sense of

that reprises our codes and was quite simple aes- Chopard’s Peacock earrings. ▲ thetically — uncluttered, delicate and easy to wear.” discovery and detail is Highlights included a necklace and match- ing bracelet made from two rows of something that I love pink-tinged Japanese pearls secured with camellia-shaped clasps set with diamonds and outlined in black spi- and my collectors seem nels. The pieces are priced from ’’ 41,700 euros to 330,000 euros, or to appreciate, too. $47,100 to $372,800 at current ex- change, making this an “intermediate” — TEMPLE ST. CLAIR offering from the Rue Cambon house. Boucheron padded out its Serpent Taiwanese designer Cindy Chao produces most Bohême pillar, launched in 1968, with of her line in Geneva and said she would con- introductions at every price. Among the tinue, despite the recent jump in the Swiss franc. high jewelry pieces was a white-gold bangle set with “Even though it increases the cost, I will still go pavé diamonds priced at $272,000. The line’s signa- to Geneva. From my perspective, having a perfect ture gold granulation and drop motif also appear on outcome of the work is more important than fi nan- a dainty gold-and-diamond watch with a mother-of- cial concerns,” she said, sitting in a room at the pearl dial and a slim satin strap. Available in two Four Seasons Hotel George V amid a display of her versions, it retails for $13,650. At the entry level, work, old and new. “It’s very challenging to make Boucheron presented its fi rst bridal pieces, with my pieces,” she said, pointing out that the impos- wedding bands and engagement rings reprising its ing jewels — sculpted in wax and cast in light- twisted chain effect in yellow, pink or white gold. weight titanium — require special setting skills. Chopard, which sometimes previews its red-carpet collection in Her latest creations had an aquatic theme and in- Paris ahead of the Cannes Film Festival, capitalized on the num- Haute couture cluded a pair of fi sh earrings with fl ying tails. ber of clients and editors in town for couture to separately present London-based Sabine Ghanem’s Prospero collec- recent creations in a suite at the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme, where and haute tion, her third for her label Sabine G., took its refer- three security agents vetted guests at the door. ences from the grand dames of Rome — including “Haute couture and haute joaillerie share a passion for artistic joaillerie share her own mother-in-law, the inspiration for the Domi crafts and nurture a tradition of superlative expertise and meticu- selection of colorful pinky rings. The designer’s lav- lous workmanship,” said Caroline Scheufele, copresident and cre- ish yet dainty creations included the open-fronted ative director of Chopard. a passion for Foglia Rosa torque necklace, the delicate modernity The spotlight was on emeralds, tourmalines, aquamarines and of the slim gold choker counter-balanced by intri- tanzanites with creations that included articu- artistic crafts cate fl eur-de-lis motifs set with pink topaz, pink sap- lated peacock earrings in shades of purple, phire and centered with black onyxes. Prices for the green and blue. and nurture line, which is carried by retailers such as Bergdorf Elie Top, the designer behind Lanvin’s Goodman and Montaigne Market, range from 1,004 bold costume jewelry, launched a sig- pounds to 9,328 pounds, or $1,524 to $14,158. nature brand that he touted as “high a tradition of De Beers unveiled additions to its Phenomena fantasy jewelry” with a cocktail that collection with two new sets, Sirocco and drew Catherine Deneuve, Kristin Scott superlative Sunbeam. Made from white gold, the Sirocco Thomas, Marisa Berenson and Inès necklace is set with 42.27 carats of diamonds, de la Fressange. He placed diamond- expertise. including a 5.23-carat dangling pear-shaped dia- studded mechanisms based on astro- mond pendant worth 780,000 euros, or $881,150. nomical objects inside gold orbs — CAROLINE SCHEUFELE, The diamond specialist is also introducing more — small versions dangled from accessibly priced options, including champagne ears while a larger one was CHOPARD or L-grade diamonds, which can be up to fi ve inserted into a chunky, bur- times cheaper than colorless ones. nished silver pendant — that At Dauphin, founder Charlotte Dauphin de la could be clicked open or shut. Rochefoucauld presented the house’s second col- “The whole idea is to have lection with a light installation by art collective always two ways of wearing Random International at the Palais de Tokyo mu- them — hidden or on show,” he seum. The collection featured a plethora of rings, explained. The 16-piece collec- ranging from simple diamond-set bands to more tion includes fi ve unique creations, complex variations that recalled mechanical parts. such as a necklace with six circu- “I was thinking about the idea of time and the lar gemstones aligned like planets visual and artistic representations of the concept around the neck. Select pieces went ’’ of time itself. That led me to ideas like circles and on sale at concept store Colette the running water, so I created the entire collection day after the presentation. around that and the principle of stacking, like New York-based Temple St. Clair memories that accumulate,” she explained. made her Paris debut with a display With its second fine jewelry collection, at Les Arts Décoratifs showcasing Métamorphose, Maison Margiela offered a truly

nine one-of-a-kind pieces that she ▲ Boucheron’s Serpent Bohême watch. minimal take on jewelry symbolizing eternity. Its dubbed Mythical Creatures. Presented two-fi nger twisted rings, available in white gold in individual boxes handcrafted by set with diamonds or plain yellow gold, were in- artist Nancy Lorenz, they included the spired by the humble elastic band.

Flying Fish bracelet featuring fi sh with ▲ A ring by Dauphin. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ALEX WYNNE 4 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 5 WWD.COM

Vuitton Execs Put Pre-Fall in Perspective Burke predicted fashion’s large houses will have to Couture Jewelry Channels Nature’s Hues By MILES SOCHA come to an understanding in the future to plan pre-col- lections “in such a way that the clients, the press and the heads and fi ns made from moonstone, the de- PARIS — Nicolas Ghesquière is heading to Los Angeles buyers can see them in a more organized way.”

By JOELLE DIDERICH signer’s gemstone of choice, their bodies set with this week for a Louis Vuitton double-header. In recent years, a number of European houses held Paraiba tourmalines and tsavorites to imitate the The French luxury fi rm is scheduled to host a cock- pre-fall presentations in New York, but that frenzy has PARIS — The fine jewelry creations unveiled during Paris Couture changing color of scales. They jumped against tail on Thursday night to toast the reopening of its Rodeo calmed, and some prominent brands returned to Paris this Week were as distinctive as the dresses on the catwalk. drops of blue sapphire that were faceted under- Drive maison, which just underwent a massive facelift season. According to sources, French fashion’s organizing Designers homed in on house codes with pieces that trum- neath to evoke the play of light on water. Another and expansion, and to christen “Series 2,” a multimedia body is studying pre-fall collections and plans to propose peted their provenance. Diamonds remained ubiquitous, but piece, the 18-karat gold Great Horned Owl ring, exhibition spotlighting Ghesquière’s spring 2015 collec- a new approach to its members. ’’ green and blue stones — in particular emeralds and sapphires was set with star ’’ sapphires, Ceylon sapphires, tion and an advertising cam- Stéphane Wargnier, ex- — also made a strong showing, as organic designs complement- diamonds and emeralds, and featured another paign for Vuitton featuring ecutive president of the ed the fl oral embellishment used on clothes. signature on the bottom — a granulation inspired Jennifer Connelly. Fédération Française de la Many leading jewelers sat out the season, having present- by medieval archers’ rings. As Ghesquière plots his Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des ed extensive collections during the Biennale des Antiquaires in “That sense of discovery and detail is some- next two fashion shows — Couturiers et des Créateurs September. There were only three on the offi cial haute joaillerie thing that I love and my collectors seem to appreci- fall 2015 ready-to-wear dur- de Mode, said it was too soon calendar: Boucheron, Chanel and newcomer Chopard. They were ate, too,” said St. Clair, noting that six of the pieces ing Paris Fashion Week to comment on the federa- joined by a host of brands staging presentations, including Cindy — priced between $175,000 and $950,000 — have next month and an itinerant tion’s intentions. Chao, Dauphin, De Beers, Elie Top, Sabine G. and Temple St. Clair. already been sold. “I always said when I was in my event for cruise — watch for Retailers say they would Chanel showed a 33-piece collection, Les Intemporels de 20s and started this business that you need to be Connelly and other celebri- welcome a more workable Chanel, centered on four familiar themes: Comet, Ribbon, older to do the really serious pieces, and I think ties to don looks from his fi rst and compact pre-fall buying Camellia and Lion. All have some link to founder Gabrielle “Coco” I’ve arrived at that point,” she added, noting that pre-fall collection for Vuitton, season. Chanel, who presented a one-off diamond jewelry line in the line took three years of work but represented unveiled exclusively to WWD “The situation of having 1932 that continues to inspire present-day collections. almost 30 years of relationships, including with the here and marking the denoue- buyers cover multiple cit-

“We wanted to reinterpret our icons, in particular Chanel’s Camélia Gansé bracelet. ▲ artisans in Florence who make the pieces. ment to a long and meandering ies at different times for a as an initiation into haute joaillerie for some of our intermediary season. pre-fall is challenging,” said clients who buy smaller pieces, or new clients who ▲ A ring by Sabine G. Michael Burke, Vuitton’s Joanna Gunn, chief brand come to us,” said Benjamin Comar, international Temple St. Clair’s Great Horned Owl ring. ▲ chairman and chief executive offi cer at Hong Kong-based director of Chanel Fine Jewelry. “We wanted a line That sense of offi cer, confi rmed that Vuitton’s Lane Crawford. “When we

that reprises our codes and was quite simple aes- Chopard’s Peacock earrings. ▲ next cruise show would be wrap up by early February, thetically — uncluttered, delicate and easy to wear.” discovery and detail is held in Seoul, and that the we are expected to be back Highlights included a necklace and match- brand is zeroing in on a date on market starting in mid- ing bracelet made from two rows of something that I love and location. In 2014, the com- February for New York pink-tinged Japanese pearls secured pany staged its cruise presen- Fashion Week.” She suggest- with camellia-shaped clasps set with tation in Monaco. ed the ideal solution would diamonds and outlined in black spi- and my collectors seem According to market sourc- be to move the January buy to nels. The pieces are priced from ’’ es, Ghesquière intends to connect with December dates 41,700 euros to 330,000 euros, or to appreciate, too. mount fashion shows for his in New York “so we complete $47,100 to $372,800 at current ex- pre-fall collections in the fu- the buys earlier and get ear- change, making this an “intermediate” — TEMPLE ST. CLAIR ture, meaning Vuitton would lier deliveries.” offering from the Rue Cambon house. join the likes of Chanel and Polat Uyal, chief merchan- Boucheron padded out its Serpent Taiwanese designer Cindy Chao produces most Dior, which staged events in dising offi cer at Beymen in Bohême pillar, launched in 1968, with of her line in Geneva and said she would con- Salzburg and Tokyo, respec- Turkey, agreed the women’s introductions at every price. Among the tinue, despite the recent jump in the Swiss franc. tively, last December. market is “scattered” and not high jewelry pieces was a white-gold bangle set with “Even though it increases the cost, I will still go To be sure, the impor- only overlaps couture, but pavé diamonds priced at $272,000. The line’s signa- to Geneva. From my perspective, having a perfect tance of pre-collections is men’s fashion week and the ture gold granulation and drop motif also appear on outcome of the work is more important than fi nan- unequivocal. home decor show Maison + a dainty gold-and-diamond watch with a mother-of- cial concerns,” she said, sitting in a room at the “They’re the biggest collec- Objet, too. pearl dial and a slim satin strap. Available in two Four Seasons Hotel George V amid a display of her tions,” Burke said. “They stay “We would be happy to versions, it retails for $13,650. At the entry level, work, old and new. “It’s very challenging to make in the stores the longest and have a more organized and Boucheron presented its fi rst bridal pieces, with my pieces,” she said, pointing out that the impos- they generate the most sales.” compact pre-fall market,” wedding bands and engagement rings reprising its ing jewels — sculpted in wax and cast in light- The pre-fall season, spread he said. twisted chain effect in yellow, pink or white gold. weight titanium — require special’’ setting skills. over several months and cit- Given his druthers, CFDA Chopard, which sometimes previews its red-carpet collection in Her latest creations had an aquatic theme and in- ies, wound up during couture executive director Steven Paris ahead of the Cannes Film Festival, capitalized on the num- Haute couture cluded a pair of fi sh earrings with fl ying tails. week in Paris with Vuitton, Kolb said pre-fall could be ber of clients and editors in town for couture to separately present London-based Sabine Ghanem’s Prospero collec- Miu Miu, Balenciaga and contained to two non-consec- recent creations in a suite at the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme, where and haute tion, her third for her label Sabine G., took its refer- Lanvin among the major utive weeks: the second week three security agents vetted guests at the door. ences from the grand dames of Rome — including brands hosting presen- in December and the fi rst full “Haute couture and haute joaillerie share a passion for artistic joaillerie share her own mother-in-law, the inspiration for the Domi tations. Ghesquière, week back after the holidays crafts and nurture a tradition of superlative expertise and meticu- selection of colorful pinky rings. The designer’s lav- Vuitton’s artistic direc- in January. The CFDA has lous workmanship,” said Caroline Scheufele, copresident and cre- ish yet dainty creations included the open-fronted tor for women’s collec- suggested this in the past by ative director of Chopard. a passion for Foglia Rosa torque necklace, the delicate modernity tions, continued to work circulating a memo among The spotlight was on emeralds, tourmalines, aquamarines and of the slim gold choker counter-balanced by intri- a Seventies vibe for the members, Kolb said. That tanzanites with creations that included articu- artistic crafts cate fl eur-de-lis motifs set with pink topaz, pink sap- season with a spice-rack idea included the input of lated peacock earrings in shades of purple, phire and centered with black onyxes. Prices for the palette, wide lapels on editors who are most affected green and blue. and nurture line, which is carried by retailers such as Bergdorf blazers, ribbed turtle- by the unwieldy season. Elie Top, the designer behind Lanvin’s Goodman and Montaigne Market, range from 1,004 necks and flaring jeans As a “master calendar” bold costume jewelry, launched a sig- pounds to 9,328 pounds, or $1,524 to $14,158. detailed with leather and that highlights runway shows, nature brand that he touted as “high a tradition of De Beers unveiled additions to its Phenomena a prominent zipper pull. hair-care product launches, fantasy jewelry” with a cocktail that collection with two new sets, Sirocco and A slim, elongated sil- anniversary dinners and other drew Catherine Deneuve, Kristin Scott superlative Sunbeam. Made from white gold, the Sirocco houette predominated, events throughout the year, the Thomas, Marisa Berenson and Inès necklace is set with 42.27 carats of diamonds, along with lightweight Fashion Calendar has the po- de la Fressange. He placed diamond- expertise. including a 5.23-carat dangling pear-shaped dia- layers: knee-length tweed tential to better organize pre- studded mechanisms based on astro- mond pendant worth 780,000 euros, or $881,150. dresses, lightly padded fall, as well as other secondary nomical objects inside gold orbs — CAROLINE SCHEUFELE, The diamond specialist is also introducing more down macs and dotted markets, including resort and — small versions dangled from accessibly priced options, including champagne silk windbreakers. Since bridal, Kolb noted. ears while a larger one was CHOPARD or L-grade diamonds, which can be up to fi ve he arrived at Vuitton in 2013, “Our intention is to use inserted into a chunky, bur- times cheaper than colorless ones. Ghesquière has taken a “ward- the Fashion Calendar to help nished silver pendant — that At Dauphin, founder Charlotte Dauphin de la robe” approach grounded in put more structure on other could be clicked open or shut. Rochefoucauld presented the house’s second col- real-world classics and open market weeks,” he said. “We “The whole idea is to have lection with a light installation by art collective to interpretation and mixing. haven’t really had a tool [to always two ways of wearing Random International at the Palais de Tokyo mu- Noteworthy accessories for organize pre-fall]. Now we do. them — hidden or on show,” he seum. The collection featured a plethora of rings, pre-fall included soft versions Louis Vuitton’s “Now that we own the explained. The 16-piece collec- ranging from simple diamond-set bands to more of the Dora bag, chain-handled tweed dress and Fashion Calendar and oper- tion includes fi ve unique creations, complex variations that recalled mechanical parts. silhouettes in quilted patent lightweight coat ate it, there is a lot of author- such as a necklace with six circu- “I was thinking about the idea of time and the leather, and reworked Speedy for pre-fall. ity that comes with that, and lar gemstones aligned like planets visual and artistic representations of the concept bags in monogram canvas var- DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PHOTO BY there is an opportunity that around the neck. Select pieces went ’’ of time itself. That led me to ideas like circles and nished to a high gloss. may have otherwise been un- on sale at concept store Colette the running water, so I created the entire collection Meanwhile, getting a tighter grip on the pre-fall season derused before,” he added. “It’s really about us being able day after the presentation. around that and the principle of stacking, like — and itinerant fashion shows — has become a hot-button to use the calendar to be able to frame and redefi ne the New York-based Temple St. Clair memories that accumulate,” she explained. topic in the industry. dates for the collections.” made her Paris debut with a display With its second fine jewelry collection, As reported, Chanel had been eyeing May 11 for its As for international designers showing pre-fall in New at Les Arts Décoratifs showcasing Métamorphose, Maison Margiela offered a truly cruise show in Seoul at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, York, Kolb said that decision should come down to the nine one-of-a-kind pieces that she ▲ Boucheron’s Serpent Bohême watch. minimal take on jewelry symbolizing eternity. Its but when Dior revealed that it would stage its show May individual brand. “There is a lot going on in New York dubbed Mythical Creatures. Presented two-fi nger twisted rings, available in white gold 9 in Los Angeles, Chanel said it was obliged to move a already. It really depends on the brand and whether it in individual boxes handcrafted by set with diamonds or plain yellow gold, were in- week forward, given the distances involved. That leaves makes sense to be in New York City,” he said. artist Nancy Lorenz, they included the spired by the humble elastic band. Chanel’s event scheduled opposite the Costume Institute — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

Flying Fish bracelet featuring fi sh with ▲ A ring by Dauphin. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ALEX WYNNE Gala in New York on May 4. FROM ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 6 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 textiles Singing an American Tune and crosshatching capturing Tencel and shows the corporate By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN the shaded canopy and unseals commitment to its U.S. spinners. plant life of a deep tropical for- Tom Aubrey, senior vice presi- NEW YORK — America’s ears est. “Modern Tea Leaves” is a dent at Burlington Worldwide, Looks from Solstiss Lace. were ringing at the recent contemporary interpretation said, “I think the Made in America Première Vision New York and of classic blue ceramic de- resurgence is still in its infancy. Texworld USA trade shows here. signs as inky tones connote a In small-town America, in the The talk was heard at two lev- subtle Batik feel and echo the Carolinas where we’re at, we els — how the U.S. market was Japanese origins of the subject. see a lot of the infrastructure proving a lifesaver to European Bob Friedman, sales manager is there and many people real- fabric fi rms and those that serve for Dongheng Printing & Dyeing ize that by not buying U.S. their the downtrodden European Co., based in Changzhou, China, neighbors don’t have jobs. I think market, and how the Made in said the company sells viscose- the economy has a lot to do with America resurgence has taken based fi bers, including Lenzing’s the resurgence. I also think the hold and become a viable sourc- Proviscose, a blend of viscose younger buyer is interested in the ing strategy for many fi rms, even and Tencel, to fast-fashion ecological impact and the fact that with some limitations. chains such as Zara, H&M and buying in the U.S. can lower the Exhibitors at PV at Pier 92 Uniqlo. Showing at Texworld for carbon footprint of everything you and at Texworld at the Jacob K. the fi rst time, Friedman said the consume. Also, made in the U.S. Javits Convention Center said company was looking to expand offers the quick response that is the favorable exchange rate that beyond its mostly European cus- more important to our customer. has developed with the dollar tomer base to sell to more U.S. So we are seeing a slow, gradual versus the euro has made the companies, especially given the resurgence of people coming back U.S. market more attractive. The diffi cult European market and to our U.S. platform.” Fresh prints from Liberty Art Fabrics. exchange rate is about 1.14 euro the strengthening U.S. economy Michael Penner, chief ex- to the dollar compared to about and manufacturing base. ecutive offi cer of Peds Legwear, JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY 1.37 euro to the dollar a year ago. The company has its own yarn- formerly the Richelieu Group, factory and brought in a new line “Seeing business come back “The interest of our exhibi- dye facility, and specializes in of- explained how he purchased of made in the U.S. wool suit fab- in men’s shirtings is exciting tors is very high because they fering special treatments such as a factory in Hildebran, N.C., in rics that we call Just US, or Just because it had basically disap- feel the U.S. market is solid over-dyed fabrics and indigo dyes, 2011 and has rehired more than U.S. “In our activewear business, peared,” Sasso added. “I think and booming and taking risks along with bottom-weight fabrics 60 of the 200 employees that we have been promoting a made Made in USA is real because again, so they are coming,” said utilizing spandex and cupro. had been laid off, and has re- in America line of technical fab- once you make an investment Guglielmo Olearo, internation- At a Texworld seminar called engineered the facility to make rics for the outdoor, hiking, run- you’re going to stick with it. The al show manager at Première “Made in America: A New Peds legwear and other socks ning and sportswear markets.” way the global and U.S. econo- Vision. “The appeal is strong.” Reality,” speakers said the re- and hosiery products, installing Penner said his company’s my are today, it has forced com- Olearo said the second season shoring of U.S. textile and ap- 100 new knitting machines from story can be repeated by others panies to use speed to market as at Pier 92 “was working well,” parel production is gaining mo- Italy, with space for another 350. “because there was not one rea- a strategy. It’s being proven that noting, “We have the largest mentum, but is not without its “We reopened that factory son, but 100 reasons,” for its suc- consumers want to buy local, so spring edition and exhibition in problems and limitations. with a lot of help from the local cess, ranging from “increased then it’s a matter of providing a our history, with 297 exhibitors.” automation — we invested in quality product at a good price.” PV launched its New York state-of-the-art machinery — it’s Kelly Wilson, a sales ex- edition 14 years ago, and I INFLUENCES: Hyper expressive not just duties, it’s not just ener- ecutive for Los Angeles-based after calling the Metropolitan fabrics and styles that mix gy costs, it’s not just currency… Laguna Fabrics, exhibiting at Pavilion in Midtown home for PV Trends fabrics and fi bers, and strong You have to have advantages Texworld, said, “A lot more peo- the first 13 years, moved to Sabine Le Chatelier, deputy fashion graphic elements, as well as — different fi bers, different in- ple are getting involved in Made Pier 92 on the Hudson River director at Première Vision, hosted witty references such as selfi es novations. So I think the revival in USA. There’s defi nitely less in July, offering a more ex- a new seminar called “Trend and unusual twinned looks. can be seen by different compa- talk and more action.” pansive, open-air environ- Vision: Season Highlights” that I ENHANCED FASHION: nies and different industries.” Wilson said this includes David ment for its mostly European focused on the key infl uences, Substantial and sensory fabrics He added that in North many new accounts looking to Sasso fabrics firms to exhibit, fabrics, accessories and silhouettes and fashions, with voluptuous Carolina “there still remains a diversify their sourcing and and allowing for a growing for spring 2016. motifs, contrasting looks such as fertile ground for the textile and bring at least some of it back to accessories and trimmings area Overall, Le Chatelier said smooth with rough textures, and hosiery industry where people the U.S. Laguna, a fabric con- to be established. it would be a “fruity, sparkling pieces with a luminous coldness. understand the process, under- verter working with Los Angeles He said there was a more season,” featuring pastel colors As for specifi c fabric choices, stand the product, understand fabric makers, has been doing contemporary feel among the accented with offsetting hues, key areas are raw sophistication how to manufacture it.” well with sweater knits, ribbed exhibitors, what he called “a mix and where “we welcome the such as a rough silk jacquard, Joann Kimm, director of knits and jacquards. of activewear and city wear.” He unexpected out of the ordinary.” fantasy novelty yarns and home Johnny’s Fashion Studio, said Ronald Sheridan, president of said, “The exhibitors feel the Among the highlights were decor fabrics like geometric in New York a revival of local STC Textile, who was representing American brands are looking for three themes: jacquards and striped yarn-dyed manufacturing could lie in mov- Turkish fabric fi rm Aker Tekstil at something different, something I IN MOTION: A sporty spirit with goods. Transparencies are also ing the industry to Brooklyn, PV, said, “Business is more spread that adds value and creativity.” an intimate side. This includes important, with lightweight “which could take five to 10 out today. Maybe for the fi rst time Sandrine Bernard, executive volume-oriented styles with knits over colored wovens, years.” Johnny’s is involved in in a long time, new ventures, start- vice president at Solstiss USA, multiple layers, as well as fabrics opaque transparent patterns and Manufacture New York, which is ups, have an advantage.” said, “Business has been good. and pieces with rich textures and enhanced volume. — A.F. spearheading the Manufacturing He said they can approach The American market is doing opulent decorations. Innovation Hub for Apparel, their business differently, buy well. The timing is good for the Textiles & Wearable Tech in better fabrics, spread out their show, and I think some improve- Sunset Park, Brooklyn. sources and not be pigeon-holed ments have been made in this “I think every season is chip- and state government, and the David Sasso, vice president like an established brand can be. second time here. People have ping away at the question a little federal government,” Penner of international sales at Buhler “The need for faster turns returned and we’ve seen many bit more in trying to understand said. “We were even invited to Quality Yarns, said it’s a time of has become more important, important clients.” how companies can embrace meet at the White House with the “adapting” to issues and situa- so in many cases the smaller For the spring 2016 season, working in the U.S. or in the President to talk about why we tions. For instance, Buhler, with brands and retailers are eating Solstiss was featuring a colorful Americas,” said Tricia Carey, invested in the United States.” U.S. headquarters in Jefferson, the larger company’s lunches array of its signature lace, with business development manager Penner was referring to the Ga., uses a lot of pima cotton because they have more fl ex- a focus on open knits, richer for Lenzing USA. “One of the big- SelectUSA summit held last may in its yarns and has seen pric- ibility and are more nimble, tones, big fl ower motifs and me- gest obstacles I fi nd is that there in Washington put together by the es rise signifi cantly due to the and in many cases are manu- tallic fi nishes. isn’t always the infrastructure in Commerce Department to en- draught in California this year facturing more in the Western Also at PV, Liberty Art Fabrics companies to handle the sourc- courage foreign direct investment and Texas last year. Hemisphere and foregoing was presenting its fi rst collection ing here. So often they rely on in the U.S. The company has also “We’re doing a lot of business Asian sourcing,” Sheridan said. from new designer Tess Burch the systems they have in place benefi tted from Wal-Mart Stores’ in the Western Hemisphere,” Penner, summing up the at PV. The collection features and it’s much easier to keep multibillion-dollar investment in Sasso said. “Having the ability to Made in America situation, said, illustrative fl orals, surreal con- working in Asia or within their Made in the USA products. deliver with speed helps our busi- “There’s a critical mass we need versational, fresh abstracts and existing sourcing channels. For Aubrey noted that Burlington ness and our CAFTA programs to reach. I think there are other textures, and oversize paisleys. right now, there continues to be has seven manufacturing platforms with a 30 percent duty-free benefi t opportunities, such as sheer Examples include “The interest in sourcing in America.” in the U.S., in addition to facilities is a big plus. Once people do the hosiery that we manufacture Painters Meadow,” full of richly Carey noted that Lenzing’s in Mexico, China, El Salvador and math, it’s a big selling point.” offshore. The real Holy Grail is colored fl orals and expressive Tencel plant in Mobile, Ala., man- India, which gives its customers Buhler has also done well cut-and-sew that we haven’t been textures, mixed with thick paint ufactures 50,000 tons of fi ber an- and Burlington fl exibility. participating in Wal-Mart’s able to crack in North America. and freehand expressions. The nually for the apparel, home and He said, “In the past year or so, Made in USA program, notably But if somebody is able to fi gure “Fornasetti Forest” concen- nonwovens market. This helps as we have seen this resurgence, providing materials for towels, that out, they’re going to be rich- trates on detailed line work provide just-in-time deliveries of we’ve gone into our worsted wool sheets and men’s shirtings. er than Bill Gates.” WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 7 WWD.COM AdVErTIsMEnT PV, Texworld Boost Brand Roster Sensitive® upswing,” he added. “Having companies, with knits and cot- By PAULINA SZMYDKE a weaker euro means U.S. and ton among the liveliest seg- U.S.-dollar-driven countries ments. Silkland Trading from Fabrics: PARIS — Looking to strength- offer huge opportunities to the UAE is debuting its Orient- en their position, textile fairs European weavers, allowing inspired collection of prints Première Vision Fabrics and them to be more competitive and and embroidery, and Dong Il wearable Texworld — set to take place export larger quantities. We ex- Textile Co., a South Korean here next week — are ramping pect a lot of dynamism from the maker, will display eco-friend- up the number of exhibiting U.S. as foreign fashion brands ly fabrics that feature addition- companies, along with their cre- buy more within the euro zone.” al properties such as anti-odor technology ativity factor. Consequently, the executive and quick-drying. AnAn innovative innovative concept concept to to expressexpress aa newnew wayway of The Première Vision Paris expects visitor numbers to be China, Turkey and South dressing, in the name of a winning performance for spring edition, slated for Feb. 10 up at this month’s session. Korea still lead the list of exhib- to 12 at the Parc des Expositions By contrast, the fair’s Swiss iting countries. every action. The latest wearable technology by in Paris Nord Villepinte, will exhibitors are likely to face Michael Scherpe, direc- EurojerseyEurojErs Ecombinesy combines the the outstanding outstanding Made Made in in Italy add 127 new brands to its inter- tougher times ahead, he pre- tor of Texworld and Apparel quality of Sensitive® Fabrics withwith the most advancedadvanced national roster of 1,772 exhibi- dicted. Trading with a currency Sourcing, said he does not ex- manufacturing techniques,techniques, for for garments garments that arethat easy are to tors, 57 of which will show at that soared following the Swiss pect any major fl uctuations in easywear, toperfect wear, fit perfect and freedom fit andof movement.freedom of movement. Première Vision Fabrics, plus National Bank’s decision to visitor fi gures, though he would 20 more at the Première Vision de-peg the franc from the euro not be surprised if there were Andrea Busnelli - Fashion Design, Leather show, which is moving rate, those companies will for- fewer buyers from Russia at Politecnico di Milano - SWIFTAG design project its offer upmarket. feit competitiveness. the fair, following the country’s with mobile device included in the fabric Among the newcomers are On a more positive note, economic downturn, tightening Linen Club by Aditya Birla Lasbordes confirmed that the sanctions and the weak ruble. The euro’s dramatic depre- ciation, meanwhile, is likely to work in exhibitors’ favor, or have no impact at all on those who are trading in U.S. dollars anyway, said Scherpe, warning compa- nies not to put all their eggs in one basket and rely solely on the current strength of the U.S. mar- ket, which is seen by many mills as a new Promised Land. “The U.S. gross domestic prod- uct is growing nicely, true, but the imports are not,” Scherpe said. “Don’t forget, the U.S. is a very capable country. They can do a lot of things on their own.” Sustainability is likely to re- main in the focal point of dis- cussions between producers and buyers, he noted. Creativity is trading high “It’s a battle,” Scherpe at Première Vision Fabrics. added. “Everybody wants eco- friendly products, but nobody is willing to pay for it.” Nuvo Ltd., billed as the largest textile industry is experiencing Overall, he said, “The manufacturer of linen fabrics in a boost from the growing men’s economy works in cycles, and A tailoring effect combined with technical performances India, and Kurkku Alternative, wear sector, which fi nds a special- 2015 and 2016 should be the offering maximum comfort, distinctive design solutions which will unveil a collection ized offering at Première Vision. years where business is catch- andand unlimited creativity.creativity. SensitiveSensitive® Fabrics,, light,light, ing up despite a few remain- of organic fabrics produced by “It’s not just the access to breathable, no no curling, curling, no pilling, no pilling, always perfectalways even perfect after Japanese craftspeople. fabric weavers, but also leather, ing obstacles ahead. I think Along with its exhibitor num- that appeals to men’s wear a lot of demand has been severaleven after washes, several are washes,a source areof inspirationa source of for inspiration advanced bers, the fair is looking to bolster makers,” he said. “Leather accumulated.” designfor advanced innovations: design progressive innovations: body progressive mapping effect,body its creative strength. The Maison goods, bags especially, are This is particularly true bondedmapping and effect, taping bonded technology and taping by heat technology fusing the byfabrics, heat d’Exceptions section that was a very dynamic category for Apparel Sourcing, theyfusing create the fabrics, an avant-garde they create look, an avant-garde and a comfortable, look, and set up in 2011 to promote crafts- here.” which unlike Texworld, is practicala comfortable, fit practical without fit stitching. without stitching. As well As wellas aswelded manship from around the world, A sign of the sector’s in- not yet “a mature show,” technologywelded technology that enables that smartenables solutions smart solutions such as solarsuch this season will feature 13 new creasing internationaliza- Scherpe pointed out. rechargeableas solar rechargeable accessories accessories for electronic for electronicdevices. Thanks devices. to ateliers and artists from Italy, tion is also Première “We have been theThanks latest to techniques the latest -techniques including contouring, - including laser contouring, cutting, France, Japan, South Korea, Vision’s new brand very pleased with flockinglaser cutting, and flocking high and definition high definition digital digitalprinting, printing, garments India, the U.K., Senegal and policy that has simpli- its growth in the becomegarments highly become innovative highly andinnovative sophisticated, and sophisticated, such as the Kyrgyzstan to help designers fi ed the names of the past year and this such as the ones created during the EurojErsEy scout novel techniques. six shows, renam- February it will ones created during the Eurojersey workshop with the Meanwhile, 32 exhibitors are ing them Première register a 30-per- studentsworkshop of with Politecnico the students di Milano. of Politecnico di Milano. scheduled to make a comeback Vision Yarns (for- cent-plus [growth] after years of absence, includ- merly Expofil), versus the same ing denim specialist Tavex and Première Vision period last year,” Heathcoat Fabrics Ltd., a sup- Fabrics (formerly he said. plier of engineered textiles, Première Vision), Apparel which the fair’s organizers see Première Vision Sourcing, as a reflection of the show’s Leather (former- dedicated to fi n- SOLAR MESSENGER growing relevance in the inter- ly Cuir à Paris), ished product MADE BY O-RANGE: national textile arena. Première Vision manufactur- multifunctional, foldable bag with Gilles Lasbordes, executive Designs (formerly ing, will add integrated recharging features director of Première Vision, Indigo), Première Tunisia to its said he was optimistic about Vision Accessories roster, a country TheseThese projects, projects, are are the the main main theme theme at the at Eurojthe EurojerseyErsEy business in 2015, but noted that (formerly Modamont) the executive praised boothbooth at Première Vision, February 2015 edition, the upcoming season would be and Première Vision for its logistic advan- representingrepresenting thethe truetrue expressionexpression ofof new wearable marked by contrasts. Manufacturing (formerly tages with Europe, technologytechnology throughthrough uniqueunique garmentsgarments with both fashion “Business differs a lot for our Zoom). They will from now as well as its quality. and function for a complete lifestyle. companies, depending on where on run under the Première Scherpe also pointed and function for a complete lifestyle. you look in Europe,” Lasbordes Vision Paris banner. to a growing emancipa- said. “While the U.K. market is Texworld, set for tion of Vietnamese and Sensitive® Fabrics - digital print doing very well, in Italy, Spain Feb. 9 to 12 at Le Cambodian exhibitors, and Germany fi gures indicating Bourget exhibition cen- which traditionally have the consumption of apparel is ter, expects its number been subcontractors pointing down. This is diffi cult of exhibitors to remain of Chinese companies. for the mills. Overall, Europe stable with 630, though “Their respective govern- remains challenging.” new countries will join ments are really pushing On the other hand, Lasbordes their ranks, includ- for an independent textile said, “the luxury and the creative ing the United Arab industry and are invest- markets are overperforming.” Emirates and Malaysia. A runway show ing into development,” www.sensitivefabrics.it “Although China has slowed In addition, the fair at Texworld’s which encourages diver- down, the U.S. is seeing a stark will welcome 70 new fall edition. sity, he added.

SNS_Publi WWD 98,4x352,1_7.indd 1 27/01/15 15.32 8 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 Lululemon Founder Resigns From Board YouTube, Brand Assembly board.” He noted that he has the time to work with By VICKI M. YOUNG his wife and son as they grow their streetwear brand, Partner for NYFW Initiative Kit and Ace. Founded last year, the brand showcases LULULEMON ATHLETICA founder Chip Wilson a “luxury-technical fabric” trademarked under the By JESSICA IREDALE has resigned from the company’s board, but will re- name Qemir (pronounced “come here”) and is a pro- tain his stake in the yoga apparel fi rm. prietary blend of cashmere, viscose and elastane. NEW YORK — Another venue for emerging designers has Wilson, who founded the company in 1998, left his The company, Wilson said, will continue to pur- popped up on the New York Fashion Week schedule, cour- position as its chief innovation and branding offi cer sue other ventures, including the establishment tesy of YouTube and Brand Assembly. in January 2012. He went on a sabbatical to Australia of Vancouver as the center for technical apparel In November, YouTube Space, a 20,000-square-foot stu- and returned to the company in 2013 to as- dio located in Chelsea Market, opened as an incubator for sist in positioning Lululemon’s longer-term YouTube creators, as the company calls its users, to ex- objectives. Since then, there’s been a tran- periment with content and the latest audio, visual and ed- sition in senior management at the com- iting equipment at no cost to them. YouTube has similar pany, with Laurent Potdevin taking on the outposts in London, Los Angeles and Tokyo. Via a partner- role of chief executive offi cer in January ship with Brand Assembly, an agency that offers business 2014. He succeeded Christine Day, who re- services to small designers, YouTube Space is hosting vealed her plan to resign in June 2013, but “The New Class,” a series of presentations that will be stayed on until her successor was named. held Feb. 12 for six Brand Assembly clients: Hunter Bell, In August 2014, Wilson reached an Michelle Kim, Caroline Constas, Nikki Chasin, C. Keller agreement to sell half his stake in the and Maria Dora. company to private equity firm Advent The designers are divvied up into two, two-hour time International in a deal worth about $845 slots — three showing at 10:30 a.m. and three showing at million. The transaction gave Advent 20.1 12:30 p.m. — and each has her own individual space and million shares, or a 13.9 percent stake, eight models to work with. The Stylisted is doing makeup and two board seats. Those seats went to and Frederic Fekkai is handling hair. With YouTube as the Advent managing partner David Mussafer main sponsor, there is an online aspect to the partnership. and managing director Steve Collins, and The designers will be set up with a YouTube creator or expanded the board to 12 members. In con- TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY YouTube star, including Evelina Barry of Evelina’s Fashion nection with the transaction, Wilson and Shares of Lululemon fell 1.1 percent on Monday. Cafe and Alexys Fleming of MadeYewLook, for pre-show in- Advent agreed to certain standstill provi- terviews and fi rst looks to post in an online video. “We hope sions for the fi rm’s 2015 and 2016 annual meetings. through the Chip and Shannon Wilson School of this fashion showcase will bring the creative communities A spokesman for Lululemon said Wilson “has no Design at Kwantlen University. on YouTube and those in the fashion world even closer to- plans to sell his shares at this time.” Wilson owns a While hardly as controversial a fi gure as Dov gether,” said Vanessa Goldstein, who works in creator devel- 13.8 percent stake in the company. Charney, the ousted founder and ceo of American opment at YouTube Space. Wilson said, “Upon returning from Australia, I Apparel Inc., Wilson complicated Lululemon’s The partnership was proposed by Brand Assembly, saw that the company had lost its way and was driv- public relations diffi culties when, in the midst of founded in May 2013 by Alex Repola and Hillary French to en by the wrong values….I am happy to say that I a recall of its overly sheer black Luon yoga pants provide operational support to independent designers. It now believe the company has returned to the core in 2013, he said the pants weren’t right for “some also operates a trade show in Los Angeles and a concept values that made it great — product, brand and cul- women’s bodies.” He departed the company as shop for its designers within Lord & Taylor. ture — and is back on track.” chairman in December 2013, but retained his “Brand Assembly is set up to promote and elevate design Wilson added that he has achieved the “goals I set board seat as a director. talent and help them reach the fi nal audience and that’s when I came back, and after careful thought, I be- Shares of Lululemon on Monday slipped 1.1 per- what YouTube Space does,” Repola said. “We saw a synergy lieve that now is the right time to step away from the cent to $65.52 in Nasdaq trading. to collaborate to help the guys we work with reach a wide audience by leveraging the YouTube resources.” Most of the Brand Assembly designers would not other- wise be able to afford a fashion week presentation. “It’s an opportunity,” said Hunter Bell. “As a small designer, you Vacheron Constantin Opens in Miami have to plan everything yourself, and you don’t necessarily watch-laden offerings as an opportunity for unbri- have the infrastructure and resources to come to life. There By MISTY WHITE SIDELL dled success. “I think in the end it’s a benefi t for the are so many opportunities that fall fl at.” consumer,” he said. As nice as it is to save money, Bell also appreciates the THE MIAMI DESIGN district is boosting its cachet as “There is an interesting collectors’ market in perk in pairing up with one of YouTube’s stars. Barry has a collectors’ haven once more. Vacheron Constantin Florida from watches and art to cars,” Brun added 918,000 subscribers to her channel and Fleming has more will today open its doors in the growing shopping of the city’s luxury allure. “We see that this market than one million. “It’s a phenomenon,” Bell said. “YouTube mecca at 140 Northeast 39th Street, adding to the is strong and that it is growing, so we are hoping to caters to a younger demo and it’s a very important social district’s other big-ticket imports including Bulgari, address and serve this clientele.” media channel.” Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC Schaffhausen. Anticipating this collector’s culture, Vacheron The 1,400-square-foot space is the Geneva-based Constantin Miami has implemented a rotating artist fi rm’s fi fth standalone store in the U.S., and its fi rst program on one of its walls to promote local talent, which Brun expects to particularly take fl ight Target Store Openings during December’s annual Art Basel fair. The store has also Skew to Smaller Format employed an in-house watchmaker to field TARGET CORP. will open 15 stores in 2015. questions regarding The new stores will include eight TargetExpress locations, model and make. Both one CityTarget site and six general merchandise stores. are first-time ameni- Tina Tyler, Target’s executive vice president and chief ties for the Richemont- stores offi cer, said, “Our store growth looks different today owned brand’s retail than it did fi ve years ago, driven by guests’ expectations operations. for ease and personalization in their shopping experience. The Design District Smaller formats like TargetExpress and CityTarget offer store will offer a Miami- customized assortments and services to meet the needs of exclusive watch to cel- guests who are increasingly moving into urban centers. ebrate its opening. A “In our general merchandise stores, we’re embracing a $48,400 limited edition test-and-learn philosophy, innovating with layouts and expe- Overseas Chronograph riences and bringing digital and brick-and-mortar together — produced in a con- like never before,” she said. trolled run of just 30 — In addition to the previous TargetExpress openings is a reinterpretation of disclosed for San Francisco, San Diego and St. Paul, Vacheron Constantin’s Minn., Target will add two TargetExpress stores to the athletically inclined greater Washington, D.C., area and one to Chicago. The The Miami store. Overseas Chronograph newest Target format averages 20,000 square feet in size. style. The timepiece The discounter said it is looking to bring the format to draws visual inspira- other markets, including the greater Philadelphia area outside of better-known luxury timepiece hubs such tion from Miami’s oceanside landscape, with a deep and Los Angeles. as New York, Las Vegas and the Los Angeles area. blue color and a bezel furnished in rose gold — a new The CityTarget format will open its fi rst East Coast site Vincent Brun, Vacheron Constantin’s North fi nish for the style. It will come equipped with inter- in Boston, near Fenway Park. A second site is planned American president, noted that Miami’s rapid devel- changeable vulcanized rubber and alligator leather for Brooklyn, N.Y., in 2016 at the City Point development. opment and international appeal is what made the straps as well as the original Overseas Chronograph’s This format averages between 80,000 and 160,000 square town such a viable location for the brand’s U.S. expan- features: water-resistance, antimagnetic protection, feet. There are eight in operation, including three in Los sion. “[It’s] a place where you see local people from and a Maltese cross-inspired bezel. Angeles, two in San Francisco, and one each in Seattle, Florida shopping, as well as a broader American audi- The limited-edition watch is not Vacheron Portland, Ore. and Chicago. ence, and defi nitely those coming from international Constantin’s only manner of celebration. The The six general merchandise stores to be opened include places like South America,” he said. brand will host a week’s worth of events throughout one each in Westwood, Mass.; Kahului, Hawaii; Kailua, Brun declined to reveal sales projections for the Miami, the fl agship fete of which will be held at the Hawaii; Lake Bluff, Ill.; Fort Worth, and San Diego. new store, but said that he sees the Design District’s Pérez Art Museum. — V.M.Y. WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 9 WWD.COM Obama Proposes Max Mara Store Shows Off Arty Side foot space linked by a striking spiral the tall facade’s white geometric Pro-Trade Budget By REBECCA KLEINMAN staircase in cross-scratched metal screen into an upstairs salon with and beachy oak for its opening later Murano glass tables, a B&B velvet By KRISTI ELLIS MIAMI — Max Mara has fallen for in the month. Though smaller in size sofa and Golran rug in watery blues. Miami’s magic. The brand’s new ar- than stores in New York, Los Angeles Metallic inserts in wood walls, an WASHINGTON — President Obama chitecture-focused boutique in the and Chicago, Miami’s flagship status exclusive design detail, gleam from proposed increasing federal funding to Miami Design District and sponsorship packs in most of the firm’s lines, from a muted palette and materials, in- strengthen trade enforcement, open new of last month’s National YoungArts Elegante to Sportmax. cluding the handbag and jewelry markets for U.S. exports, strengthen U.S. Foundation’s Backyard Ball are yet “This location is getting all our spe- section’s adjustable wall panels that defenses against cyber attacks and crack another testament to the city’s rise as cial fashion pieces,” she said, compar- are upholstered in taupe microfiber down on counterfeit products in the fed- a crossroads for culture. sourced from Kvadrat. eral budget blueprint he submitted to It also marks a new “Miami needs a little Congress on Monday. chapter for Max Mara. flash,” she said. Obama’s $4 trillion budget proposal for Just as it prefers un- The front half of the fiscal year 2016 that begins Oct. 1 would in- derstated, classic cloth- first floor is dedicated to crease funding for trade agencies and also ing, the family-owned exhibitions of works by reiterated a previous proposal to reorga- company hasn’t been a emerging artists and Max nize and merge several trade agencies into showoff concerning its Mara fashions such as the one consolidated mega-department. vast art collection initi- Heritage Project, the inau- Obama’s plan is not expected to be en- ated by founder Achille gural installation and first acted in its entirety, because Republicans, Maramotti. The fashion North American stop for who control both chambers of Congress, house has chosen 2015 as the story of the company’s oppose many of the President’s propos- the year to come out of its iconic coats dating from als and plan to write and pass their own shell Stateside, including the 1950s to last year. The spending legislation this year. But ad- sponsoring the opening multimedia, interactive ministration officials said Monday there gala of the new Whitney display features camel could be common ground on specific pro- Museum of American Art wool coats and an outfit posals, such as corporate tax reform and in Manhattan. by Karl Lagerfeld, as well trade. The budget blueprint also sent a “We’re present in as sketches by Anne Marie signal to the business community that the many U.S. cities, but se- Beretta and photographs President is placing an emphasis on inter- lected Miami because by Richard Avedon. national trade. of Art Basel, its private Renderings of the Max Mara location “Unlike our other The White House is in a full court art collections like the in the Miami Design District. Florida stores in Naples press to get presidential Trade Promotion Rubells and Art Deco and Palm Beach, Miami is Authority, seen as a crucial tool the architecture, and it’s in- our place to experiment President needs to conclude free trade ne- ternational,” said Luigi and reach an arty, young gotiations on the Trans-Pacific Partnership Maramotti, chairman of professional,” said Maria pact and advance a trans-Atlantic trade Max Mara Fashion, of Giulia Maramotti, who’s pact with the European Union. Under TPA, the locale’s synergy with collaborating on an in- Congress can only vote up or down on a the company’s art and store art show and college trade agreement, which gives the adminis- design-based DNA versus scholarship for a student tration leverage with trading partners who collecting art as a trend. from the nearby Design will know they can make their final offers “Even though Miami is and Architecture Senior without Congress changing the deal. young, it will be a suc- High with YoungArts. “The budget provides resources to cessful market for us.” “We’re used to mentoring help deepen U.S. trade in the Asia- Before he sat at a young creative people, like Pacific region as the U.S. leads the way in table with Jeff Koons, our cutting and sewing in- negotiating the high-standard TPP with who received the 2015 ternships in Italy, so this 11 countries in the Asia-Pacific region, Arison Award as part project was a no-brainer.” which will boost American exports and of National YoungArts They’re also already create jobs at home by promoting strong Week when master teachers and ing its assortment to that of New York’s in talks about staging a fashion show rules to protect labor, the environment alumni of the nonprofit mentor high Madison Avenue, with the exception for resort 2016 at YoungArts’ campus and intellectual property,” the adminis- school finalists, Maramotti spent of tailored suits. “There will be tropi- in the former Bacardi headquarters tration said in the budget. the day touring his new neighbor- cal colors like a bright blue and gray in November. The strategic push dif- Obama’s fiscal blueprint would in- hood’s private collections steps from double cashmere coat and prints like fers greatly from when Max Mara crease the budgets of the U.S. Trade the store. His niece Maria Giulia resort’s kangaroo pencil skirt.” operated under the radar during its Representative’s office and the Commerce Maramotti, North American retail Sans historic building codes, 15-year run at Bal Harbour Shops. Department’s International Trade director and global ambassador, was Duccio Grassi architects had free “There’s a real buzz here now. Our cli- Administration, two key agencies that readying the bilevel, 3,325-square- reign. Natural light filters through ents are excited we’re back,” she said. work closely with the industry. The International Trade Administration, a di- vision of Commerce that is leading the President’s National Export Initiative and also houses the Office of Textiles Paul Andrew Opens London Pop-up Shop and Apparel, would receive a $25 million boost in funding to $497 million under the Andrew has clearly stamped his Wickstead in London, who said at the President’s proposal. By NINA JONES handwriting on the store — a sketch of party that she loved the “modernity” Obama’s budget would maintain a fund- his Zenadia pump takes up one of the of Andrew’s designs. ing level of $15 million for the Interagency LONDON — Paul Andrew, last year’s windows, while his colorful, feminine As to future collections, the designer Trade Enforcement Center that addresses CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner, designs act as pops of color among said he’s planning to launch a men’s unfair trade practices and barriers. It opened his first pop-up space here Karan’s spring looks. Many of Andrew’s line “within the next 12 months.” would also maintain funding of $20 mil- on Wednesday, on the second floor of designs are exclusive to the space, such “I see that there’s a real niche in the lion for the SelectUSA program that pro- Donna Karan’s boutique on Mayfair’s as a hot pink, matte patent version of market for men’s shoes that are neither motes reshoring and attracting foreign Conduit Street. the Zenadia pump — which is finished too classic nor too fashion-forward,” investment. The proposal would increase Later that evening, the footwear de- with a matte rather than shiny lacquer mused Andrew, noting that he’s also USTR’s budget to $56 million from $54.2 signer threw a party at the store, togeth- texture — along with a rose gold and planning to launch accessories “with- million as it wraps up TPP talks and the er with publisher and street-style favor- dusty pink version of his Tigrado suede in the next three to five years.” He’s Transatlantic Trade and Investment ite Caroline Issa, to fete the new space. pump. There are also designs such as also looking to new markets — the de- Partnership with the European Union. Issa said after seeing Andrew’s first pre- his Athena gladiator sandal, in which signer is just back from a trip to China, In the plan to consolidate trade agen- sentation in London, she’d pronounced the straps run up the calf, along with where his collections will launch for cies and programs into one depart- the collection “mind-boggling good.” the Zenadia pump in a rainbow of lay- fall at Lane Crawford in Shanghai and ment, pending Congressional approval, “He’s future-proof, he’s going to be ered suede colors and his Rhea kitten Beijing, along with Isetan in Tokyo, Commerce’s core business and trade here for the long term,” said Issa, who heel sling-back in fuchsia floral bro- with the line also scheduled to launch functions, USTR, the Small Business wears Andrew’s shoes in the look book for cade. “It’s really given me a taste [for at retailers in Russia. Administration, the Export-Import her upcoming collection with Nordstrom. opening a store],” said Andrew of the As for reports that the appetite for Bank, the Overseas Private Investment Andrew — who worked at Karan’s experience. “I’m really keen to open luxury is slowing in emerging markets Corporation and U.S. Trade and label for more than a decade and who my own retail stores at this point.” such as China and Russia, Andrew said Development Agency would be combined. he still consults for — said during a After his CFDA win in November, that unlike major luxury labels that Customs and Border Protection, which walkthrough of the space Tuesday that this year is shaping up to be a busy may have seen rapid growth in those makes seizures of counterfeit goods and he sees opening the pop-up as “coming one for Andrew. He will showcase markets begin to slow, his business in monitors cargo containers and the flow of home in a way.” his fall collection in New York with those countries “is totally new for me, commerce through U.S. ports, would see an “The fact that…[Karan] invited me a presentation during New York so I feel like there’s potential to grow increase in funding to $11 billion from the to take over this space for a couple of Fashion Week “that’s a little bit more the business there,” he said. current level of $10.5 billion. Obama also months was such an honor, and the fact outside the box,” Andrew said, which Exploring those far-flung locales has proposed $14 billion in funding for several that it’s in London, and I was born and will have “a show element.” The de- fired up Andrew’s imagination. “I was agencies overseeing cyber security, in the trained here, it does feel like coming signer will also create the shoes for a so inspired by my trip to China — I feel wake of a string of online attacks against home,” said Andrew, who’s based in number of ready-to-wear designers’ like the next collection could certainly government assets and the private sector. New York. fall collections, among them Emilia have a feeling of Asia,” he said. 10 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015

Both men met or tried to meet with Galliano over his behavior, well before he began slinging anti-Semitic epithets at a After the Fall neighboring table in the Paris DANA THOMAS’ new book, acute anxiety and stress-induced café La Perle in February 2011. “Gods and Kings: The Rise and problems.” At the time of his This was also not the fi rst time, Fall of Alexander McQueen and death, which took place on as it emerged, that the designer John Galliano,” brings to mind the evening before his mother had used said epithets when two quotations: Walter Bagehot’s Joyce’s funeral, he had been inebriated. Thomas observes “We must not let daylight in seeing a psychiatrist, Dr. Stephen that there were days when upon the magic,” and the Arabic Pereira, who specialized in work- Galliano simply didn’t come to proverb, “The dogs bark, but the related stress. Claudia Joseph the offi ce, but members of his caravan moves on.” “Gods and interviewed the McQueen family staff received what seemed to Kings” tells you more than you for The Daily Mail. His ever imagined about the lives of sister Janet told her, the two chronicled designers — ‘I thought that he was the backstory. coming to terms with her How did this new project death. How wrong I was.” begin? “I was writing a piece McQueen’s most for The Washington Post about passionate fan, muse and John Galliano’s downfall,” says early backer, of course, Thomas, a former model and was the fl amboyant longtime journalist who lives in fashion editor Isabella Paris with her husband, Hervé Blow, who, in 2007, also and their daughter, Lucie Lee. committed suicide. In the fi rst paragraph of the Thomas says, “I just Post story, she found herself thought she was great mentioning Marc Jacobs’ two fun. I wouldn’t have stints in rehab; Tom Ford wanted to be her boss, becoming depressed after though, and to have to getting sacked from Gucci, and approve her expense Christophe Decarnin, who was accounts.” Thomas the lead designer at Balmain details what appears to and who reportedly ended up in have been an unhealthy what the French call a maison sadomasochistic de santé. McQueen had been psychological dynamic FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE dead by his own hand for a year between the two. By all John Galliano Kate Moss at this point. Thomas goes on: accounts, the fact that at the spring WWD.com/eye. walking in “So I write this paragraph, and I McQueen did not give 2007 Dior Haute Galliano’s spring think, ‘Wow! There’s something Blow a job at Givenchy Couture show. 1993 show. going on here.’” So she asked her when he was named

one of the key players in “Gods other bad actors here. Thomas Shalom Harlow spray-painted by robots in and Kings,” stepped in, brought says, “I hope Bernard Arnault Alexander McQueen’s spring 1999 show. her to a Chanel show, and, doesn’t come across as a villain.” before long, Lagerfeld offered The jacket of the book, however, eye her a better position at Chanel. says Thomas “chronicles the Thomas says of Harlech, “Her revolution in high fashion in the fan club is...I’ve never encountered last two decades — and the price anyone whom everybody who ever it demanded of the very ones met, people who worked with her who saved it.” It’s hard to know in 1984, everyone used the words what Toledano, Arnault and, ‘amazing,’ ‘beautiful.’ There was for that matter, Domenico De unquestioned love for Amanda Sole, who purchased Alexander Harlech. Only one person said, McQueen for Gucci Group or his ‘From time to time, she could come successor there, Robert Polet, across as aloof. But she wasn’t.’” should have done with two very Then there was the death of gifted, unstable men. Toledano Robinson, who had been with and Arnault appear to have done Galliano from the beginning of everything within their power to his career, and was invaluable secure Galliano’s physical and to the designer as a fashion mental health. Perhaps they can collaborator and who was also be criticized for overindulging the gifted at administration — his designer. But once his problems Mr. Inside. Robinson died in were brought to their attention, 2007 of what was reported at they acted with dispatch. the time as a heart attack, but, It seems unlikely that De according to later Paris court Sole or Polet were aware of the proceedings against the man depth of McQueen’s despair, convicted of being his dealer, which is scarcely surprising given Alassane Seck, was a massive the fact that no members of his overdose of cocaine. Fashion own family knew it. One source who spoke to Thomas suggested book editor and designer there be drunk-dialed phone calls. that, rather than the death of agent: “Is this broke her heart. Before the La Perle incident, McQueen’s mother causing the a book?” The The book both Arnault and Toledano had designer to commit suicide, her historic moment, is full of suggested that he go to rehab. death — coming after a long she says, “felt interesting He refused. illness — actually freed him to like the end of details about One of Galliano’s original do so. “Gays don’t do old,” is one a 30-year run each fashion muses, Amanda Harlech, found quote attributed to McQueen. of creativity. show and what, herself wooed by another And it should be said that Beautiful, at times, seems designer: Karl Lagerfeld. couture collections have not boundless, like every idea Harlech had long worked been a reliable source of dizzying, each designer with Galliano and was given revenue for a great many years; magical, but ever had. Both a consulting contract when they have long been regarded it came so designers’ he went to Givenchy. But it as showcases for the skills of a abruptly to a romances appeared that when Galliano top atelier. At least since the late close. I knew I still had a lot in and misbehavior are also was seconded to Dior by Sixties, designers have talked my cave [the storage space in her painstakingly detailed. Arnault, she was not going to be about the notion that the couture apartment building]. I’d kept all According to the book, in appropriately compensated. She McQueen is over and should be scrapped. my clip fi les since before Google the last months of Galliano’s had two children, she was about and Isabella As for the brilliant fashion was invented. employment at Dior, fi rm head to be divorced and it seemed Blow in moments of McQueen and As for McQueen’s suicide, Sidney Toledano and LVMH likely that her husband was not 2005. Galliano, the former’s legacy was according to “Gods and Kings,” Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton going to be a reliable source of OF PENGUIN PRESS PHOTOS COURTESY secured, if it wasn’t already, with this was not his fi rst attempt, owner Bernard Arnault took funds. The fi gure that she was the blockbuster show, “Savage and it was something that he extensive steps to rein him in. offered at Dior was, Thomas insiders believe that losing Beauty” at the Metropolitan had often mentioned. “I think When the designer melted down writes, insultingly low, and this him was the beginning of Museum’s Costume Institute in he was put on antidepressants, at the Mercer Hotel in New was probably due to the fact that Galliano’s unraveling. New York in 2011. Galliano’s but he didn’t take them because York during an inspiration trip Galliano’s right hand, Steven The jacket copy of “Gods story is still being written, now it made him nauseous,” says in fall 2010, Toledano insisted Robinson, wanted to get rid of and Kings” — and its ending at Maison Martin Margiela. Thomas. “He suffered from that he return to Paris at once. her. André Leon Talley, who is – suggests that there are some — LORNA KOSKI WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 11 WWD.COM

aiming for more growth with several new “Our customer is the kind of girl stores slated to open in the U.S. at the who loves clothes but also has her end of the year. priorities straight,” Brandes remarked FASHION SCOOPS “The way clothing is sold and the way on the ethos behind the campaign. “To people are buying it and the way fashion market to her, we choose a fl eet of witty, is working is very different outspoken women with good CARTOON WORLD: Holding a fl uffy white for spring-summer, debuting at Colette from 1995,” Turk said. “We senses of humor, because Caption: Tiffany Cooper with cat can soften a severe fashion look. in Paris on April 1 and at Karl Lagerfeld have stuck to our identity, that’s who our customer is: her drawings. So fi gures French cartoonist Tiffany boutiques and shops-in-shop on April 4. which revolves around print someone who doesn’t take Credit: Karl Lagerfeld Cooper, invited by Karl Lagerfeld to create — MILES SOCHA and color and California. herself too seriously but also a capsule collection featuring her That has stayed the same.” wants to look really chic.” TRINA’S TWENTIETH: Even amid drastic — KHANH T.L. TRAN Other content changes instigated by multiple tech contributors include Zoey Tiffany Cooper booms and the Great NOT ONLY FASHION: Grossman, Mallory Llewellyn, with her FOR MORE Recession, some things E-commerce is taking a Megan MacKay and Ali Michael. drawings. SCOOPS, SEE remain a constant at Trina backseat in BB Dakota’s new — KRISTEN TAUER Turk. For its 20th anniversary digital content initiative. WWD.com. this year, the Alhambra, Calif.- Launching today under ONCE UPON A TOPIC: Kenneth based brand is reviving the campaign hashtag Branagh’s live action take some of its best-selling #itsonlyfashion, the on “Cinderella” won’t be in styles, introducing new ones and project showcases movie theaters until March splashing a vivid print that blends original visual and 13, but as of today Hot Topic fl owers with hieroglyphics on the written creative work is courting modern-day commemorative capsule collection. created specifi cally princesses with a capsule Among the 20 styles that let for BB Dakota by collection inspired by the customers sashay down memory a roster of young A Cinderella-inspired Walt Disney Studios flick. lane is a minidress with a curving female voices. “We dress by Hot Topic. The $50 Peasant Sweetheart neckline that fi rst appeared wanted to pivot to a Dress, $80 Victorian Waistcoat Caption: nine years ago and is now more content-driven strategy, and other apparel and accessories items Trina Turk 1-3: A look from refashioned out of silk georgette because it’s one thing you are meant to borrow from costumes Trina Turk’s 20th anniversary and cotton jacquard. New items can do to really generate a worn by Lily James and other cast capsule collection. include tote bags, bikinis, enamel conversation online and have members. Fans of Cate Blanchett will be Trina Turk 4: An iPhone case pendant necklaces and cases for people talking about you,” said out of luck should they want to emulate from Trina Turk’s 20th anniversary the latest iPhones. Retailing from Katharine Brandes, BB Dakota’s her role as the fair-haired princess’ capsule collection.

PHOTO BY KARL LAGERFELD PHOTO BY $68 to $328, the collection will hit creative director. The launch wicked stepmother, though. department and specialty stores includes a short documentary Shoppers can preorder the Credit: drawings of the designer and his famous including Nordstrom, as well as series fi lmed by visual artist Cinderella-inspired styles through the Courtesy photo pet Choupette. Trina Turk’s 11 freestanding boutiques Petra Collins, who took a road trip retailer’s e-commerce site, but they The offbeat effi gies are to appear on and Web site, in April. across the U.S. to document female won’t fi nd it in Hot Topic freestanding a selection of apparel and accessories Not to rest on her laurels, Turk is dancers and empowerment through stores until Feb. 24. Cindy Levitt, senior movement. Collins and others vice president of merchandising and profi led in the video series wear marketing, said the fairy-tale look suits looks from BB Dakota’s spring the 662-unit chain’s customer base. “The issue for its issue about Oakland. Time collection on-screen. collection has just enough twists to make won for feature photography. it wearable but is still a bit magical for

MEMO PAD Although ASME likes to say there are L A look from Trina Turk’s 20th our fan girl customer,” she said. never any losers, editors know that is anniversary capsule collection. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG THE ASMES NEVER CHANGE: Even as the far from true — and there were some media landscape undergoes tectonic very notable snubs. Cosmopolitan — shifts, there are things that apparently which, like its Hearst-owned counterpart will always remain the same: The O won for personal service last year — National Magazine Awards will be held was passed over in three categories this in New York in February, and New year, as was sister title Harper’s Bazaar, York and The New Yorker will nab most which was nominated in two categories. of the awards. The awards were held Condé Nast’s Bon Appétit, which won Monday night at the Marriott Marquis two Ellies last year, was a fi nalist for in Times Square, where the two titles six awards this year but came up empty walked away with three Ellies each. handed. Then there was Monica Lewinsky, The other big winner was Vogue, who was up for the essays and criticism which was named magazine of the year, category for her Vanity Fair essay called while longtime Time photojournalist “Shame and Survival” but failed to win James Nachtwey was honored the prize. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD for creative excellence. New York won for GIORGIO DOES THE design, magazine GRAMMYS: Giorgio section and columns Armani and GQ and commentary, while magazine are teaming The New Yorker won up to fete the Grammys for general interest with an after party at magazine, essays and the Hollywood Athletic criticism and fi ction. Club on Sunday night. National Geographic The party will be hosted and Nautilus brought by GQ editor in chief Jim home two Ellies apiece; Nelson, and will include National Geographic many of the winners of got top honors for the music awards show. REACH THE photography, naturally, “For us, music and while it proved it is fast- style are a natural match, moving into the digital and we’re celebrating that FASHION INDUSTRY’S era while also winning as much as the artists who Vogue was the award for tablet magazine. are making their legacy named magazine First-time winner Nautilus right now,” Nelson said. “Plus: of the year. TOP TALENT won for Web site and literature, The Grammys were dying for science and politics magazines. a great after party, and we were dying Other fi rst-timers included The Atavist to give it to them. Everything had to for feature writing; The Hollywood be right, and it’s all come together Reporter for special interest magazines; beautifully: a historic venue, with an Pacifi c Standard for public interest; The excellent partner, guests that include Texas Observer for multimedia, and Vice some of the most talented musicians News in the video category for its series out there, and a night already keyed up “The Islamic State.” for celebration.” Garden & Gun won for style and The February issue of GQ features design, Glamour for service and lifestyle, “The Legacy Project,” which and Men’s Health for active interest. Rival celebrates musicians who made an Backpacker grabbed the award for leisure impact on the entertainment industry interests, while GQ won for reporting, this year. Pharrell Williams is on the thanks to Jeff Sharlet’s story “Inside the cover, while inside he joins stars Iron Closet,” about being gay in current- such as Stevie Wonder, St. Vincent, Sam WWDCAREERS COM day Russia. O, The Oprah Magazine took Smith, Mark Ronson, Nas, Future, Diplo, Kim PRINT&ONLINEPACKAGESAVAILABLE home the personal service award for its Gordon, Rick Ross, FKA Twigs, James Blake, Contact Christen Cosmas, WWD Classifi ed/Careers caregiver’s guide, while San Francisco Drake, Lil Wayne, Young Thug, Karen O, at 212.630.3937 or [email protected] scooped up the award for single-topic Spoon and Iggy Azalea. — A.S. 12 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2015 WWD.COM

Under Strain, Alibaba’s Ma Upbeat {Continued from page one} percent on Monday to close at Despite this downward pres- file. Now there are high ex- of the world that we are not the regulator’s desire to follow $90.13 in Big Board trading. sure on monetization stemming pectations. They are a China transparent or that Taobao through on that promise. Still, a number of analysts from the growth of mobile, sev- consumer bellwether, so a lot is a platform for selling fake The lawsuit filed in New have lowered price targets on eral analysts pointed to this of things people hear about products,” he continued. York stemmed from the SAIC Alibaba in the wake of the com- sector’s growth as a positive the slowdown in China gets Ma also expressed concern white paper and charged that pany’s trifecta of bad news last marker for Alibaba’s future. The transferred to Alibaba,” he about China’s reputation. defendants “issued false and week, though those keeping a company’s mobile revenue rose said, adding that it would be “We want this company misleading statements regard- close eye on the still extremely 448 percent year-over-year to difficult to see recent develop- to represent China and the ing the soundness of the com- robust Chinese e-commerce sec- $1.04 billion. ments threaten the company’s Chinese Internet. We are not pany’s business operations, the tor remain positive about the J.P. Morgan analyst Doug position as a dominant force frustrated about regulators. We strength of its financial pros- company’s long-term prospects. Anmuth compared Alibaba’s in China’s e-commerce sector are frustrated about how we pects and concealing substantial “Monetization was weaker situation with that experi- and beyond, as ’’ the company can prove that today in China, ongoing regulatory scrutiny.” than expected, but we continue enced by Baidu — China’s diversifies its offerings and we can have a good company The complaint further al- to see increasing platform value most-used search engine — expands internationally. that is as transparent and [with leged that “regulators had then for merchants from Alibaba lon- when it was making the transi- Yet it’s not surprising that the same] values [as] any great brought to Alibaba’s attention a ger-term and increasing mon- tion to a more predominantly Alibaba would receive special Internet company in the world,” variety of highly dubious — even attention from Chinese regula- he said in English. illegal — business practices that tors, according to digital strat- He was speaking to the the SAIC advised Alibaba it was Jack Ma and Tung Chee-hwa, the egy expert Andrea Fenn, from Hong Kong public in a mostly then actively clamping down on former chief executive of Hong Kong. Mainland China digital consult- lighthearted event called “An and which threatened the core ing agency Fireworks, who de- Evening With Jack Ma,” offering of Alibaba’s business.” scribes the company’s position advice on entrepreneurship and The legal document listed in China as “not just a company, encouraging others not to give some of those alleged business but the company.” up, to seize opportunities and to practices as including the “ram- A bigger problem for have confidence in themselves. pant sale of counterfeit goods” Alibaba, Fenn said, will be The talk was free and open to by vendors on Alibaba’s third- the demands of international the public and had been adver- party marketplace platform; the sale of restricted weapons and other forbidden items; that Alibaba staffers “had taken This is an opportunity to show the bribes from merchants and others” seeking to help boost West how Alibaba and China work. their search rankings, and that Alibaba ignored the practice by — JACK MA, ALIBABA some vendors of faking transac- tions to make their sale volumes appear higher. regulators and investors, who tised in local papers for weeks. The lawsuit, filed on behalf might not be used to the way Ma said there are no firm of shareholders who bought business is done — by Alibaba plans to take Ant Financial, the Alibaba stock between Oct. 21, and everyone else — in China. company’s financial unit, public 2014 and Jan. 28, 2015, is seek- That seemed to be Ma’s point in the near future. Ant Financial ing class-action status. in his speech in Hong Kong. is “still a baby,” he said. A Beijing-based research “The way that business is con- Alibaba on Monday unveiled analyst, who works with a ducted in China, it’s all about a $129 million foundation to market research firm focused guanxi, or relationships with help young Hong Kong entre- on the Chinese Internet and people. Of course, there’s a lot preneurs who want to start who requested anonymity, told of practices any regulatory body businesses on the e-commerce WWD he believed the lawsuit outside of China would think giant’s online marketplaces.’’ is a swipe at the company’s etization longer-term,” Pacific mobile-based business. unusual,” he said. “Alibaba The foundation will provide management structure. This Crest analyst Cheng Cheng “We expect Alibaba’s ads will continue to be the main, if financial capital, technical as- structure, which gives minor- wrote in a note following the monetization to follow the tra- not the only, credible player in sistance, and training to eligible ity shareholders control over earnings report, which showed jectory of Baidu in their later Chinese e-commerce at every vendors in Hong Kong who want the company’s key assets, and gross merchandise volume in- mobile monetization stage to level. It’s a very Chinese com- to sell products to customers in limited recourse to unhappy crease almost 49 percent, to enjoy robust revenue growth pany, but if they want to expand Mainland China. shareholders, was flagged as more than $125 billion, and a 95 driven by paid clicks and pric- into the rest of the world over Ma said the foundation was a potential problem prior to percent year-over-year rise in ing,” Anmuth wrote. the next few years, they will not politically driven, but that Alibaba’s blockbuster initial monthly active users to 265 mil- Another concern for Alibaba have to internationalize their he “believed a company this size public offering in September. lion in 2014. is the more general slowdown of business practices.” should have a responsibility to “The point of this lawsuit Of particular concern for China’s economy and correspond- Alibaba’s dominant position help young people.” is to target Alibaba’s manage- many analysts was the growing ing slowdown in consumption. in China is perhaps the reason Asked if the foundation ment and stockholder structure, influence of mobile, as Alibaba According to Torsten Stocker, Ma stayed mostly upbeat dur- would consider young people which is something Alibaba ended 2014 with 265 million mo- a partner at management ing his talk on Monday. “Doing who participated in recent pro- needs to deal with,” he said. “I bile users, up 22 percent from consulting firm A.T. Kearney, business anywhere you have democracy protests, Ma said, don’t think this kind of lawsuit the previous quarter. Alibaba Alibaba’s increasing interna- to talk, communicate, listen, “Why not?” But he then noted can damage Alibaba because platforms, such as consumer- tional profile makes it a target change and push,” Ma said that if applicants were barred every part of the company gives to-consumer e-commerce site for fears about the Chinese about dealing with regulators. from entering China, then it real support to their stock price Taobao, make most of their rev- economy at large. “We’re looking to see how we would be difficult to do business and profitability.” enue from advertising and mar- “Before the IPO they were can communicate to the rest in the country. Indeed, Alibaba’s shares keting, but charge less for these well known in China, but they of the world. We don’t want to — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS shrugged off the suit, rising 1.2 services on mobile. had a much less public pro- be misunderstood by the rest FROM VICKI M. YOUNG

In exchange for its 25 per- cent stake in the partnership, Iconix Buys Pony in North America AL&S contributed its previ- ously held perpetual rights to by AL&S. Following the trans- tail sales, and create significant the Pony brand in the U.S. and By LISA LOCKWOOD action, Iconix has the option to value for the brand.” Canada, and will be the core expand global ownership of the Pony was founded by footwear licensee going for- ICONIX BRAND GROUP Inc. brand and acquire the Pony as- Uruguay–born entrepreneur ward. AL&S (which has been has ponied up $37 million in sets in additional territories. Roberto Muller in New York in rebranded as Unlimited Brand cash for the North American “Sports has been one of the 1972 and became a top athletic Group) owns, licenses, mar- rights to the athletic brand Pony strongest and fastest growing footwear brand, worn by profes- kets and distributes brands and related intangible assets segments of our portfolio, and sional athletes in the World Cup, Pony’s assets will be purchased such as Etonic, G-Star, RAW in partnership with Anthony a business that has proven to NBA, NFL, MLB and boxing. through a new subsidiary, which will Footwear, and Levi’s Strauss L&S Athletics from Symphony be truly global in its appeal,” The street culture brand went be 75 percent owned by Iconix. & Co. Footwear. Holdings LLC. said Neil Cole, chairman and through several owners and was Last fall, DKNY partnered Hong Kong-based Symphony chief executive officer of Iconix. repositioned multiple times. In the group can grow Pony through- with Pony to make a white- acquired Pony in 2010 in an ef- “With the addition of Pony, we recent years, archival images fea- out North America, creating “a on-white leather sneakers fort to revive the footwear brand. believe we can leverage our turing athletes such as soccer star profitable multi-tiered distribu- imprinted with “Product of Pony’s assets will be purchased existing sports platform includ- Pelé and football star Dan Marino tion strategy similar to our other New York” on the tongue. The through a newly formed subsid- ing our Danskin, Starter and sporting Pony were featured. successful sports brands.” Further, sneakers are being sold in se- iary, which will be 75 percent Umbro brands, which represent Seth Horowitz, chief operating he said, it will explore opportuni- lect DKNY stores and online owned by Iconix and 25 percent over two million of global re- officer of Iconix, said he believes ties in additional geographies. this month for $225.