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Top Model Famose: 14 Momenti Iconici in Passerella

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Top Model Famose: 14 Momenti Iconici in Passerella Leggi l'articolo su beautynews Top model famose: 14 momenti iconici in passerella Le Top Model più famose della storia della moda Quando Peter Lindbergh immortalò Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington e Tatjana Patitz nel Meatpacking district di New York per la cover di British Vogue di gennaio 1990, in quel momento era nata l’era delle supermodel. Conosciute in tutto il mondo, le cinque ragazze avevano qualcosa di speciale — sicurezza, bellezza, personalità –, tanto da convincere George Michael ad assoldarle per il video di Freedom ‘90! e Gianni Versace a farle sfilare per la sua iconica collezione AI 1991. Per tutti gli anni 90, le supermodelle — poi sarebbero arrivate Claudia Schiffer, Stephanie Seymour, Kate Moss e le altre — riuscivano a dare carattere agli abiti e alle passerelle, dando il via a uno dei decenni più straordinari nella storia delle sfilate. Da Amber Valletta che apre per Gucci in camicia in satin (molto) sbottonata (sfoggiata poi anche da Madonna agli MTV Video Music Awards del 1995) al body cyborg di Nadja Auermann per Thierry Mugler, ecco 14 momenti indimenticabili in passerella che hanno consolidato la fama delle super. pagina 1 / 15 Linda Evangelista, Chanel Karl Lagerfeld quando creava si ispirava spesso alle vacanze al mare, ma nell’ottobre 1990 portò la surf culture direttamente in passerella per la collezione primavera estate 1991: nessuna l’ha interpretata meglio di Linda Evangelista. Da tempo musa di pagina 2 / 15 Lagerfeld (la modella afferma che la sua carriera è decollata grazie a lui, nel 1985), la modella canadese ha sfilato con una classica giacca della maison in paillettes sopra un paio di pantaloncini da ciclista, e in mano una tavola da surf con la scritta “Natural Art”. Photography Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images Naomi Campbell, Azzedine Alaïa Naomi Campbell era notoriamente molto amica dello stilista tunisino, che spesso chiamava ‘papà’. “Faceva cose che mio padre, che ho conosciuto a 41 anni, non ha mai fatto” ha detto Campbell a Vogue nel 2018. “Mi portava dal dentista, nei musei, mi ha insegnato tanto sull’arte, sul cibo, sulla cultura”. Per l’autunno inverno 1991 di Azzedine Alaïa, Campbell aveva indossato un originale abitino in maglia con stampa farfalla nel corso di una sfilata che si era tenuta mesi dopo la conclusione del fashion month. (“Una collezione è pronta quando è pronta”, aveva detto Alaïa). Photography Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images pagina 3 / 15 Karen Mulder, Valentino Valentino ha vestito per decenni le donne più influenti della storia, come Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis o Sophia Loren, e gli anni 90 non fanno eccezione. Qui Karen Mulder, la modella olandese apparsa su oltre 22 cover internazionali di Vogue, indossa un sensuale abitino couture rosa baby sotto una giacca gioiello abbinata e un fiocco pink fra i capelli, un look che sarebbe attuale anche oggi. Photography Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images pagina 4 / 15 Yasmin Le Bon, la figlia Amber e Gail Elliott, Chanel Per l’autunno inverno 1991, Karl Lagerfeld si era distaccato dallo stile sartoriale classico di Chanel optando per un look più ‘giovanile’. Nota come la collezione ‘hip-hop’, comprendeva giacche in pelle matelassé, cappelli da baseball con la visiera girata e catene d’oro a profusione. “Lagerfeld è intenzionalmente provocatorio”, scriveva Vogue nel gennaio 1992, “e porta la sua sfilata per Chanel sull’orlo dell’abisso del kitsch e del funk”. Il momento clou? Davvero emozionante, protagoniste la modella Yasmin Le Bon, sua figlia Amber, di soli 20 mesi e la sua migliore amica, Gail Elliott. Photography Neville Marriner/Shutterstock pagina 5 / 15 Claudia Schiffer, Versace La collezione autunno inverno 1992 di Gianni Versace, intitolata ‘Miss S&M’, ha portato il fetish in passerella con la supermodella Claudia Schiffer in sexy top con aperture decorato con dettagli gold e catene, un momento davvero iconico. E in seguito Versace avrebbe fatto furore grazie a Elizabeth Hurley, che si era presentata alla prima di Quattro matrimoni e un funerale nel 1994 indossando l’ormai leggendario abito nero con maxi spille da balia gold creato dello stilista. Photography Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images pagina 6 / 15 Helena Christensen, Perry Ellis Nel novembre 1992, l’allora 29enne Marc Jacobs invase la passerella di Perry Ellis con un tripudio di camicie in flanella, cardigan cortissimi, berretti e sottovesti in seta con Pretend We’re Dead delle L7 a tutto volume. Il look di Helena Christensen— vestito a quadretti, maglioncino e Dr. Martens — lanciò un trend che diventò globale. Un mese dopo, Kristen McMenamy, Nadja Auermann e Naomi Campbell erano in copertina sul numero di dicembre di Vogue (immortalate da Steven Meisel) indossando le creazioni di Jacobs per Perry Ellis. Photography Dan Lecca/Conde Nast Archive pagina 7 / 15 Linda, Naomi, Christy e Cindy, Versace Ovviamente, l’elenco dei momenti più memorabili in passerella non sarebbe completo senza la performance che lanciò l’era delle supermodel. Per il gran finale della sfilata autunno/inverno 1991 di Gianni Versace a Milano, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington e Cindy Crawford hanno percorso la passerella a braccetto, in miniabito, cantando in playback la hit di George Michael Freedom! ’90. Paul Massey/Shutterstock pagina 8 / 15 Naomi Campbell, Vivienne Westwood Se c’è una cosiddetta “caduta” di stile che è entrata nella storia, è quella di Naomi Campbell. La modella inciampò mentre sfilava con un paio di vertiginose (circa 23 cm) scarpe con plateau di Vivienne Westwood, e ne parlarono davvero tutti. In un’intervista per British Vogue dell’ottobre scorso, la supermodel confessa che subito dopo l’incidente altri stilisti (ma non vuole dirci chi) le avevano chiesto di cadere di proposito alle loro sfilate. Le scarpe oggi hanno un posto d’onore al V&A Museum di Londra. Photography Guy Marineau/Condé Nast via Getty Image pagina 9 / 15 Kate Moss, Calvin Klein Kate Moss ha lasciato il segno alle sfilata PE94 di Calvin Klein: la supermodella ventenne è entrata in passerella indossando una canotta in maglia grigio perla, gonna in satin e scarpe chunky. Il resto della collezione, morbida e femminile, era un tripudio di slip dress e capi dallo stile relaxed . “Non c’è nulla di rigido”, aveva commentato lo stilista. Dan Lecca/Conde Nast Archive pagina 10 / 15 Christy Turlington, Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Paul Gaultier ci ha presentato Christy Turlington come non l’avevamo mai vista prima: piercing-catenina al naso, top a stampa “tattoo”, pareo annodato in vita e sneakers voluminose. Turlington sembrava molto soddisfatta del suo look, mentre percorreva raggiante la passerella parigina. Ma veniamo a oggi: basta farsi un giro su Depop per capire l’enorme impatto dei leggendari capi stampati di Gaultier. Photography ARNAL/GARCIA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images pagina 11 / 15 Amber Valletta, Gucci L’autunno inverno 1995 segna la rinascita di Gucci, grazie alla direzione creativa di un volto nuovo e molto sicuro di sé, Tom Ford. Qui Amber Valletta apre la sfilata con una camicia in satin in una sfumatura gioiello sbottonata fino alla vita (Madonna avrebbe indossato la stessa blusa, ma in una nuance verde-azzurra agli MTV Music Video Awards del 1995). Negli anni 90 Amber è apparsa ben 13 colte sulla cover di Vogue America, guadagnandosi di diritto un posto nell’olimpo delle super. Guy Marineau/Conde Nast Archive pagina 12 / 15 Nadja-Auermann, Thierry Mugler Alla sfilata che celebrava i 20 anni di carriera di Thierry Mugler, al Cirque d’Hiver di Parigi, c’erano Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss e Jerry Hall. Ma è stata in realtà Nadja Auermann a rubare a scena in un lucente body-corpetto stile cyborg e guanti lunghi en pendant. Vi ricordate il look vintage Mugler di Cardi B ai Grammy Award del 2019? Ebbene, prima di lei c’era stata Simonetta Gianfelici. Photo by Daniel Simon/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images pagina 13 / 15 Kate Moss, Versace Haute Couture Gianni Versace è stato il paladino del glamour con la G maiuscola, e quando iniziò a sfilare a Parigi con Atelier Versace catturò l’attenzione di tutti. Versace concludeva ogni sfilata con la sua interpretazione del look bridal: e chi meglio poteva chiudere questa volta se non Kate Moss, in scintillante miniabito da sposa con zip frontale (ogni singolo strass era stato meticolosamente applicato a mano) e stivali al ginocchio abbinati. Photography Pat/Arnal/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images pagina 14 / 15 Shalom Harlow, Alexander McQueen La creatività di Alexander McQueen era senza limiti. Mente la sfilata primavera estate 1999 si avviava alla sua conclusione, dei robot hanno preso vita all’improvviso, spruzzando vernice spray su Shalom Harlow, che indossava un voluminoso abito in tulle senza spalline. La critica di moda Sarah Mower ricorda il momento in cui la modella era entrata in passerella: “Puoi rivedere la scena quante volte vuoi, ma il senso di immediatezza e di shock non cambiano mai ”. Photography Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images pagina 15 / 15 Powered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org).
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