Ulta, One of Beauty’S the Caftan Is Making a Launches Lipsticks and Hottest Retailers, Comeback, with Styles Expands Handbags
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Fashion. Beauty. Business. Features p. 78 In Focus p. 31 Fashion p. 8 AUG 2015 No.1 BEAUTY AND SILVER FLOU THE BAG STREAK SEASON Christian Louboutin Ulta, one of beauty’s The caftan is making a launches lipsticks and hottest retailers, comeback, with styles expands handbags. marks 25 years. from simple to ornate. RED HOT AND ATOMIC RED HOT “I just favor happiness to darkness. I’m more solar than lunar.” solar than lunar.” more I’m darkness. happiness to favor “I just RED Hot andATOMIC GEN Z — WHICH IS SIZABLE, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIAN SOCIAL AND READY TO SPEND — IS BLOWING UP (AND SO ARE THE SMITH SIBLINGS). US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR The Features James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Ready or John B. Fairchild Not, Here 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera They Come! MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS 72 At nearly 25 percent EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark of the population, NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt Generation Z is sizable, SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin social and has SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE considerable spending SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski power. Just don’t mistake BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani them for Millennials. BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen Eyes Wide Open ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton 78 Christian Louboutin BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale discusses his new luxe SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende lipstick line and an EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S expanded handbag SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri offering as he keeps FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes adding to his MARKET EDITORS formidable FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, footwear. Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior, Jayme Cyk DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran LOS ANGELES Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, Kayana Cordwell, Milton Dixon, Emily Mercer PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Tricia VanGessel ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton Lucky Blue Smith, one of the four PUBLIC RELATIONS Smith siblings who are models as PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni well as bandmates in The Atomics. Photograph by EMMAN MONTALVAN Contents Paul Jowdy th SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone happy 25 INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & LUXURY DIRECTOR Jennifer Petersen ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Samantha Hartje Shannon Fitzgerald Alexandra Smith philosophy: our best is yet to come. SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Suzette Minetti Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/ INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles Cotton jeans by Frame Denim. CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Amy Keiser “We started the women’s line because we felt like AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle denim was no longer a fashion item, but for men it’s SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT more about the concept of style rather than fashion.” PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal — Jens Grede, Frame Denim INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh Men’s Agenda, page 22 ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao DEPARTMENTS SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger 6 Social Studies EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher The best and worst in social media, what’s DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle Agenda trending, whom to follow. DIRECTOR OF EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Amelia Ewert FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC 24 Eye Stephanie George Fashion 8 • Parties The fourth-annual Hamptons Paddle & PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN Flou Season: Caftans are as Party for Pink. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore effortless as ever . Carolyn FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR • Arts & Culture Phillipa Soo soars as the first lady OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Murphy signs with Ugg . Model in “Hamilton.” FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer Call: Kenya Kinski-Jones . • Report Card Kate Mara looks appropriately DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Fashion Briefs fantastic at a premiere of “Fantastic Four.” • City File Tuning In to Nashville. WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC 31 WWD Milestones ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Markets 18 Silver Streak As it hits the 25-year mark, the red- Jay Penske True North: Michelle Lam is hot Ulta Beauty reveals strategies for continued CHAIRMAN & CEO making data sexy, one bra at a growth in its next quarter-century. VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne time . Markets Briefs EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS 84 Bridget Foley’s Diary EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough BUSINESS AFFAIRS With the departure of Alexander Wang from SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault Balenciaga, the “Who’s next?” watch begins anew. BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene Retail 20 SVP HUMAN RESOURCES 86 Think Tank VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson Jeffrey Kalinsky, whose Jeffrey Marcie Merriman, executive director of business VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar flagship helped transform VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West strategy and retail innovation at Ernst & Young, Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen discusses how to win the hearts and minds of DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion marks its 25th anniversary Generation Z. DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci . Retail Briefs CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, 88 Remember Derek Ramsey DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko here’s to an even more miraculous future together. Singapore celebrates 50 years of independence DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, 22 with a string of events in New York . The Ritz & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson reopens in Paris . Human Resources SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Jean Splicing: Five brands that are Aramis Miranda-Reyes injecting newness into the men’s IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber denim market . M Briefs 90 Finale Fred Baez Letter Man: The alphabet soup that is the TO CONTACT WWD generation game surely didn’t start with Gen Z. EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 Matt Dillon was one of the poster boys for Gen X. ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 of all philosophy USA net product sales supports community-based ON THE COVER: The Smiths, clockwise from top left: Starlie 1%mental health efforts. Cheyenne, Daisy Clementine, Pyper America, Lucky Blue. join the conversation at facebook.com/philosophy PHOTOGRAPHED BY EMMAN MONTALVAN 4 AUGUST 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL