SCAASI’S STRIPTEASE/6 WHO PAYS FOR PORT SECURITY?/14 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • August 17, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles

Get in Shape NEW YORK — Giorgio Armani knows how to keep fit. For Armani Collezioni spring, he’s making the little shrunken jacket his own, sending out myriad playful variations on it. Here, a breezy wide-collared cotton and silk version worn with a cotton top and cotton and elastin jeans. For more on Armani Collezioni, see page 8.

Storms Spare Florida Retailers, but Comps Outlook Weakens By Georgia Lee and Katherine Bowers stores on Sunday and Monday as Southeastern U.S. last week, are Y PORTIA PETERS Y PORTIA ATLANTA — This time, the weather Floridians found respite in shopping expected to depress August same- really is having an impact. malls. Still, Bonnie and Charley, the store sales by up to 2 percent at Retailers generally escaped any respective tropical storm and Federated Department Stores and major physical damage from the hurricane that dealt a deadly blow the Neiman Marcus Group, as well weekend storms and reported busy to parts of Florida and the See Storm, Page 18 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; HAIR AND MAKEUP B DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Eskenasi to Exit Saks Inc. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By David Moin Eskenasi could not be reached to learn about GENERAL her plans. The impact of Hurricane Charley and Tropical Storm Bonnie on the NEW YORK — Saks Inc.’s aggressive private label “I’m sure she can write her own ticket wher- 1 Southeast is expected to hurt August sales at Federated and Neiman’s. buildup is about to hit a roadblock. According to ever she wants to go,” said Robert Kerson, an ex- With her lawyer by her side thanks to pending perjury charges, rapper Lil’ sources, Peggy Eskenasi, senior vice president in ecutive search consultant. “Private label grew Kim unveiled her fine watch collection, with jewelry and apparel to come. charge of private brands for the department significantly under her watch at Saks Inc., and 2 stores, will announce her departure this week. it’s becoming a bigger piece of every retailer’s EYE: NYU student Anna Anisimova hosted a benefit in Southampton for the She’s been in a critical role, considering Saks business. It’s where the margins are, and is part 4 school’s Mental Illness Prevention Center...A Pucci party in L.A. Inc. in just a few years has lifted its private label of what distinguishes them from the competi- RTW: Just like every dress Arnold Scaasi ever made, his latest book volume to 14 to 15 percent of its total volume, tion. Her design and product development skills “Women I Have Dressed (And Undressed),” is designed to flatter. from the mid-single-digit level. Ultimately, the are not easily replaced.” 6 Saks Inc. department store group hopes to catch The Saks Inc.department store group in- FASHION: In his Giorgio Armani Collezioni spring lineup, the designer up to key competitors, such as Federated cludes Parisian, Proffitt’s, McRae’s, Younkers, 8 explores ways to work a fitted jacket, along with dresses, jeans and pants. Department Stores Inc., where private label Herberger’s, Carson Pirie Scott, Bergner’s, IN TRANSIT: The end of the quota system is expected to bring a boom in sales are closer to 20 percent of total volume. Boston Store and 28 mall-based Club Libby Lu Chinese exports and the nation’s ports are investing to build capacity. Among the key women’s private labels at Saks specialty stores. 9 Inc. are Relativity, Pursuits and Studio Works. Saks Inc. also operates Saks Fifth Avenue, Industry and government agree that U.S. ports are vulnerable to terrorist The company has also been penning exclusive where private label represents 4 to 5 percent of 14 attacks, and are grappling with how to improve and fund inspections. distribution agreements with such brands as the volume, though officials have indicated that TEXTILES: Fabrics with properties ranging from moisture management to Laura Ashley, Jane Seymour and Ruff Hewn it represents a substantial opportunity for muscle compression are vying for share of the performance market. over the last few years. growth there too. 16 Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name.

WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Lil’ Kim Times Launch Well VOLUME 188, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 By Emily Holt Lil’ Kim ers of necklaces, Jones strayed West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; from her rehearsed speech and Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior NEW YORK — Martha Stewart's turned positively giddy when Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- empire may have suffered from asked about the baubles. “This is President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at her run-in with the law, but it my favorite part,” she said. additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. seems Lil’ Kim’s is about to “These watches are to die for.” POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. grow in spite of her pending She proudly displayed the model FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR perjury trial. on her wrist for reporters and DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new With her lawyer by her side, television news cameras and subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production the flamboyant rapper unveiled said, “If you don’t like it, tell me correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, her new collection of fine watch- and I’ll try to make one especial- please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully es, Royalty by Lil’ Kim, at a press ly for you. But if you really hate screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive conference here Monday. She it, well, too bad.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. also revealed plans for fine jew- But when the press confer- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND elry and apparel collections to ence returned to other aspects of TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART be launched under the Royalty her notoriety, including her up- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED label within a year. coming February court date, TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE The watches are manufac- Jones’ demeanor underwent a ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. tured by Jacob & Co., which is Jekyll-and-Hyde-like shift. She owned by Jacob Arabo (aka gravely denied charges of lying to Jacob the Jeweler). As one would a federal grand jury investigating expect from the man to whom TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY a 2001 shooting that allegedly in- In Brief Sean “P. Diddy” Combs turns for from $1,800 to $3,500. Lil’ Kim volved members of her entourage diamonds, and the woman re- (aka Kimberly Jones) said more outside a radio station here and membered most for her lilac se- than 5,000 watches have been or- left one man wounded. She also ● BACK IN FASHION: Joie Rucker, who left her contemporary quined breast pasties at the 1999 dered for fall, and she’s already stands by her theory that the case namesake label last month, is taking a break, but not for long. MTV Video Music Awards, the placed them on the wrists of such “is part of the government’s con- The designer behind Los Angeles-based Joie plans to return to seven-style line has plenty of famous friends as Tyra Banks, tinued indictment against the the fashion trenches in October to debut a new fall line in flash. Diamond bezels weigh Alicia Keys and Ashlee Simpson. hip-hop industry.” More than February at Fashion Coterie. Its name, style and potential part- from 1.75 to 2.25 carats, and col- Earrings, bracelets, rings and once, Jones said, “My name is Lil’ ner are still undecided, she said. One company she’s talking to orful straps are made of skins belly chains are items Jones Kim, Kimberly Jones, and I am is Blue Concepts, maker of Yanuk. Rucker, a former designer like crocodile and lizard. would like to create for a jewel- innocent.” for Levi Strauss and Guess Inc., said her first venture as a busi- Jacob & Co. and other special- ry collection down the road. As if it were testimony to that ness owner was an eye-opener. “We found that we had different ty and watch outlets will carry Wearing a pink Valentino end, Jones and her lawyer fre- goals. I wanted to grow the brand organically, and there was a the collection, which will retail blazer, a low-cut blouse and lay- quently reiterated her commit- push to make this a $100 million company,” said Rucker, noting ment to charity. She announced her departure package “wasn’t optimal.” Rucker left the $32 the creation of the Lil’ Kim Cares million company she launched three years ago with Sean Foundation, which will aid Barron two weeks ago and officially was co-president until groups that help battered and Wednesday. Barron has partnered with Serge Azria to run the ROBERTA homeless women and runaway company, which plans to show its first line under the new lead- children. Details regarding how ership in September. SCARPA the organization will go about its charitable efforts remained un- ● OPEN SEASON BEGINS: The sports world may be preoccu- clear, but Jones encouraged her pied with the Olympics, but some companies are already gear- Show-room Attila: fans to e-mail and write with sug- ing up for the U.S. Open tennis tournament, which kicks off 552, Seventh Avenue, 2nd Floor gestions of charities they want Aug. 30 in Flushing Meadows, N.Y. Reebok has just served up New York, NY 10018 her to help. an integrated marketing campaign featuring reigning Open There is the possibility that champ Andy Roddick wearing the company’s PlayDry system, tel. 1.212.944.4700 proceeds from the watch collec- which is now running on billboards throughout the city. While fax 1.212.921.0123 tion could be given to Lil’ Kim the Roddick collection is primarily for men, female fans can Cares, but no plans have been don Reebok T-shirts with slogans “I Love Roddick” and “Mrs. set. Jones received the key to the Roddick,” which will be sold at Macy’s in Herald Square. city of Miami last week, and said Roddick is slated to be at Reebok’s New York store next week to she will be working with schools debut his new apparel and footwear looks. there and potentially contribut- ing watch profits to help pay for supplies such as computers. The beach town agrees with her, she said. “I’m into feng shui. Correction And the sound of the ocean calms me.” Later this month, Jones will In Friday’s paper, it was incorrectly reported that Elle Girl maga- fete the new watch collection at zine is down in advertising pages this year. Publishers Miami’s Sagamore Hotel after Information Bureau, the magazine industry’s official source of ad the MTV Video Music Awards. page data, recorded a 35.1 percent increase in Elle Girl’s ad “Music is my first love,” Jones pages through July, to 239.1. Also in that article, Seventeen’s ad said. “Music is what enables me page total for January-September 2004 was incorrectly listed as to be an entrepreneur and 883.2. According to Hearst, the correct total is 747. branch off into different areas.” comecome seesee usus atat magic,magic, boothbooth ## JR10201JR10201 4 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Poolside at Denise Rich’s Southampton home, Swan’s Way. In Living Color Friday night in Los Angeles, Liz Goldwyn, Julie Delpy and Vanessa Von Bismarck stood out as a psychedelic swirl of color at the restored R.M. Schindler home that vintage prince Cameron Silver shares with Jeff Snyder. The party was in celebration of Pucci’s limited-edition collaboration with Champagne Veuve Clicquot to dress 1,200 bottles of La Grande Dame 1996. “I love Pucci as much as this,” purred clotheshorse Tracee Ellis Ross as she lifted a flute of bubbly. While the party spilled beyond its official closing hour, a handful raced across town to the Chateau Marmont for a late-night supper, which just might go down as one of the more extreme assemblages of the summer. Though it was no surprise to see David LaChapelle turn up with Pamela Anderson (who one guest confused with that other LaChapelle plastic surgery junkie, Amanda Lepore), it Russian Doll was certainly startling for the two dozen at the red rose-studded table to witness SOUTHAMPTON, N.Y. — In an attempt, perhaps, to make good party crasher Christina Aguilera. on an onslaught of publicity for renting Denise Rich’s house this Even Siouxsie Sioux, in town to summer for $550,000, Anna Anisimova, a 19-year-old New York prepare for her U.S. tour, poked fun at the eye® University student, hosted a benefit at the estate on Saturday former Mouseketeer. The ever-acid- night for the school’s Mental Illness Prevention Center. tongued punk icon coyly mouthed “They came to me and said we’d love to use your house,” “M-O-U-S-E” to the squealing delight of said Anisimova, who was wearing a glamorous red halter dress by Emanuel her tablemates. Ungaro that seemed more suited to the red carpet than a clambake. “I wanted to stand out,” she reasoned of her look of the night. Anisimova is the ex-model daughter of Vasily Anisimov, a Russian financier and real-estate developer. She recently purchased two of Diane Von Furstenberg’s buildings in the Meatpacking District for $23 million for luxury condos. Anisimova said her fashion tastes range from Roberto Cavalli to Yves Saint Laurent, her new favorite. “The boutique in Moscow is amazing,” she added. Eleanor Lembo dropped by before heading to Tinsley Mortimer’s Anna Anisimova in birthday party; Olivia Chantecaille and Eric Villency came for a few minutes Emanuel Ungaro. and went to dinner; Debbie Bancroft and Beth Rudin de Woody took a lay of the land and walked over to Tony Pilaro’s house for a party, catered by Daniel Boulud, in celebration of the Parrish Art Museum, and Lizzie Grubman, who was handling the p.r. for the event, filmed a segment for her new reality television show on MTV. Anisimova didn’t appear to last very long at the event either, but she explained how much she’s enjoyed staying at Rich’s house with friends. (Rich, herself, is reportedly vacationing.) Tracee “We go swimming, we take a Liz Ellis sauna and a steam, we have Goldwyn Ross in barbecues,” she said. She’s also inin vintagevintage vintage just finished reading “The Pucci. Pucci. Financier” by Theodore Dreiser; is planning, this fall, to change out of her communications major at NYU, though to what, she’s not sure; and is about to embark on starting a lingerie company with Anna Levy, who’s getting her masters in education. They have already hired two designers. Fernanda Niven “I don’t want to tell too much inin TracyTracy FeithFeith about it,” Anisimova said. “But I and Julie Frist in Eleanor happen to be a big fan of lingerie. Olivia Chantecaille Etro at Tony Lembo in It’s going to be fabulous.” inin Chanel.Chanel. Pilaro’s house. Teebags.

Cameron Silver and Julie Delpy, both in vintage Pucci.

Left: The pool house at Tony Pilaro’s Southampton home. Right: The grounds at Swan’s Way. SARDELLA DONATO BY STEVE EICHNER; PUCCI PARTY BY SOUTHAMPTON PARTIES MENS | WOMENS | KIDS

WWDMAGIC joins the MAGIC Marketplace at the Las Vegas Convention Center. Doing business just got easier. Get ready to be impressed.

August 30 – September 2, 2004 Las Vegas Convention Center

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW SHAPTER | WWW.ANDREWSHAPTER.COM 6 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004

Ready–to–Wear Report Arnold Scaasi Takes It All Off By Eric Wilson gasped as the flowered gown was revealed.” White House, “the dumbest decision I ever made in my Scaasi met Joan Crawford upon his arrival in New life,” he emphasizes. But he is most enthusiastic in de- NEW YORK — Just like every dress Arnold Scaasi ever York in 1953 at his job interview with Charles James, scribing the interchange of ideas between designer and made, his latest book is designed to flatter. where he worked for a couple of years. Once Scaasi had client that led to the many unusual, yet beautiful, cre- Few designers have had as long and illustrious a ca- his own business and Crawford was “standing only in ations that highlight his career: Streisand’s 1969 see- reer as Scaasi, whose signature house is approaching its her bikini panties” in front of him, he writes, “I was through pajamas for the Academy Awards, a chinchilla- golden anniversary, whose services have been required amazed to see that she was built very much like a man.” lined coat of vintage shawls for the artist Nevelson, a by four First Ladies and who has been around long After Scaasi worked his magic, taking a cue from the de- gown of silver, black and white feathers to match the enough to dress not only Nan Kempner, but also her moth- signer Adrian’s costuming camouflage by putting her in streaks in Elizabeth Taylor’s hair, even habits for an er, Irma Schlesinger. So he must have had some scan- dramatic, pretty gowns to soften her image, she became order of Catholic nuns in Pennsylvania who have their dalous stories to tell among the 20,000 dresses and 500 col- “this absolute vision.” own chapter. lections — by his estimates — that have passed through Mamie Eisenhower, who confessed to having never “At one point, I said to my assistant, ‘I think we’re the various studios he has called home over the years. worn a bra, “had a wonderful bosom,” so he put her in putting too many exclamation points into it,’” Scaasi But the picture that emerges in “Women I Have strapless gowns. The first time Barbara Bush undressed said of his book. “But then I left it up to my editor.” Dressed (And Undressed),” coming from Scribner in before him, she was wearing a slip, which Scaasi politely Scaasi is so loyal to the women he dressed that at September, is nothing less than a love letter to his describes as a “nice, old-fashioned touch…I was sur- some point in recent history, conspicuously around the clients, as told from the wide-eyed perspective of the 68- prised to find Mrs. Bush was not overweight and not re- same time he stopped doing big runway shows, about year-old Scaasi, who never lets the reader forget he was ally large-large, that she was quite well proportioned.” six or seven years ago, he feels fashion went bad. Scaasi once just a young Jewish kid remains committed to about a from Montreal, born Arnold dozen clients, designing special Isaacs, now pinching himself Arnold Scaasi pieces for them, but not entire at every state dinner at the reflects on his collections each season. White House. career in “I’m not excited about clothes Scaasi’s title, with its vague “Women I Have right now,” Scaasi said. “There promise of sexual mischief, Dressed.” really is a lack of self-esteem in really is a reference to the Bottom right: our country. Certainly, older rather clinical, service nature Barbra women who have always dressed of his work — understanding a Streisand in well continue to do so; they’re woman’s body requires its Scaasi for “On not going to change that. But all careful inspection, meaning a Clear Day You kinds of women, up to the age of some of the most famous Can See 60, I would say, who might have women in the world have ap- Forever.” dressed well before, don’t dress peared undressed before the well now. They might not feel it designer within a few minutes looks young or trendy, but they of their introduction. try to look trendy and they end In his recollections, Scaasi up looking tacky — to me, that’s sometimes trampled on their depressing as a designer, so I’m vulnerabilities, most memo- not really interested in design- rably in his directive to the ing clothes right now.” opera star Joan Sutherland, Scaasi, up north for the sum- “a tall, redheaded Brunhilde- mer, spends his long weekends type girl” — when she re- in Quogue and weekdays in the quested a black dress to make city with Parker Ladd, his part- her look smaller. Scaasi writes ner of the past 40 years, whom that he told her, “But you’re Scaasi has proudly included in enormous! I could never make more than 35 references you look smaller. No, we will throughout the book, including make you look bigger, grander, the dedication. The other night, bolder. We will make you look they were out at an upscale stupendous!” restaurant in the city, and both Reflecting on his clients, as were appalled when Scaasi con- Scaasi did during the 18 cluded, “There wasn’t one pretty months he wrote his memoirs, dress in the place.” in longhand, he was often sur- “There were a lot of pretty prised by his own chutzpah women, but their hair was dirty and how far it got him in life. and they didn’t look pulled to- “I did say things that per- gether,” he said. “I see enor- haps other designers maybe mously fat people walking wouldn’t say, but I think that’s around in restaurants — and not what these women came to me cheap restaurants — in for, to establish a look to make Bermuda shorts and flip-flops them appear better,” Scaasi with big stomachs sticking out. said during an interview in PHOTOS OF COURTESY ARNOLD SCAASI AND SCRIBNER We’re in a time where people his Beekman Place duplex don’t have much self-esteem, be- here. He resides there in a I didn’t plan to write it nice or not nice. cause how could they go out lifestyle quite similar to those looking like that?” of the characters in his book: “I’m just not a vicious person. As he said, he is not a vicious Scaasi in his classic navy blaz- person. He is appalled simply er with gold buttons from ” — Arnold Scaasi because his work ethic and Edward Sexton on Saville sense of propriety come from an- Row, framed by paintings by Léger, a large Louise For Bush, there were better-fitting clothes to “flatter her other time, when there was a real rapport between de- Nevelson wall installation, a Monet over the mantle and figure and make her look trimmer and more modern.” signer and client, and customers sought out his personal a uniformed maid serving ice water. He didn’t get here, Laura Bush, being more modest, never undressed be- advice on how to slim their hips or appear taller or or to his homes in Palm Beach, Fla., or Quogue, N.Y., by fore him, but Scaasi admired her legs and was still smaller or just less plain. He may even be right that the soft-pedaling his talent. proud of pushing her to shorten her skirts and lower absence of originality comes from a lack of self-esteem, It was Scaasi’s confidence in his ability to make her necklines. but then, that’s something upon which Scaasi has no women appear better that made him so easily relate to “I’m sure some people will think that I did not write personal experience from which to draw. them, accepting them not only for their physical flaws, about them very nicely,” Scaasi said in the interview, With no sense of humility, Scaasi writes in his book but also embracing whatever the personality dysfunc- though it is more likely to be his competition than his that he called Laura Bush’s office twice prior to her hus- tion. Of the notoriously difficult Barbra Streisand, clients that will take offense — he revives the charges band’s election, attempted to enlist the aid of her moth- whose “nose was prominent, but she had this little-girl that Oleg Cassini copied French designs for Jackie er-in-law and sent a congratulatory fax in his quest to smile and her figure was very good,” Scaasi describes Kennedy, alleging Cassini brought models to the White dress her, and then dedicates the next chapter to Hillary her unerring quest for perfection as if it were a charm- House to service the “horny young president,” and de- Clinton. On the upcoming election, he claimed to remain ing affectation — “I really didn’t mind, sometimes feel- rides Michael Faircloth’s inaugural wardrobe for Laura undecided last week, waiting it out to see President ing the same way when I was working on one of my Bush as making her look “dumpy.” Bush and Democratic candidate Massachusetts Sen. many collections and strove to have everything perfect.” “I liked all the women I dressed,” Scaasi said. “I just John Kerry debate. But then on Monday, he said he had That drive toward correcting these women’s flaws by wrote what came into my head. I didn’t plan to write it decided to vote for Bush after seeing the president and design helped create famous red carpet moments, and nice or not nice. I’m just not a vicious person.” first lady on “Larry King Live.” some of the happiest divas in society, politics, arts and Throughout the book, Scaasi compliments his cus- “A lot of people are afraid of trying to get close to entertainment. For Sutherland’s first appearance in tomers, and even more after they appear in his dress. these women, but either they like your clothes or they New York, he put her in a huge tangerine silk cloak that He takes a certain delight in pointing out his strict poli- don’t,” he said. “If they don’t, they don’t. If it doesn’t the singer dramatically opened on stage to reveal a gown cy of making customers pay for gowns, except where it work out, it’s not a slap at your ego. So they tell you ‘No.’ printed with apricot roses “and again the audience cost him the chance of dressing Mrs. Kennedy in the At least you’ll know.” WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 7 SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION WEEK: WWW.WWD.COM

Rena Lange’s beaded In Search of a Creative Identity silk dress.

Amanda By Bambina Wise Laird Cherry JOHANNESBURG — The recent South African Fashion Week was the most sophisticated and ambitious ever, but it clearly is going to take time before the international market embraces the country’s fashions with enthusiasm. The highlight of the four-day event was the sold-out “Bling Bling Show,” which featured the hot couture lingerie label Ruby, Soweto- chic men’s wear Ephymol and the eternally classic Julian, in collaboration with five young jewelry designers. Ye t despite all the glitz and spectacle involved in this year’s shows, and the excitement generated by a recent Newsweek report naming South Africa as the best country in which to be a fashion designer, the much-anticipated posse of U.S. department store buyers failed to materialize. There was a delegation of buyers from Germany, Switzerland, Holland and the United Kingdom, however. “Everything in South Africa is linked to our political past, even fashion,” said Dion Chang, program director for SA Fashion Week, when asked about the absence of major international buyers. Ten years of democracy after decades of political isolation are just starting to make their impact on the fashion consciousness of an eager, vibrant and youthful multiracial population. “We are emerging from years of chain-store mentality,” Chang added, explaining that in the past, fashion was largely supplied to the domestic market by local chain stores such as Woolworths, Edgars and Truworths, which exist to this day. “These stores would send their Craig teams to places like Topshop, Zara and H&M to check out the latest Native trends, and then promptly produce knockoffs in South Africa. That was how fashion filtered down to the people in those days. Those who could afford to travel, on the other hand, would bring back designer labels. Local brands were not considered good enough.” Today, freedom from apartheid seems to have released long- suppressed creative juices with a vengeance. Afro-chic, township style and reconciliation are strong themes that dominate South African fashion now, as evident in the designs of such cult labels as Stoned Cherrie, Craig Native, who counts rocker Lenny Kravitz as one of his clients, Amanda Laird Cherry and Maya Prass. The challenge these designers — and the industry in general — face, however, is how to fashion those themes into a unique creative identity that is both critically and commercially

Ruby Out on a Whim NEW YORK — As ever, whimsy is the word at Rena Lange. Designer James Waldron pulls out all the playful stops for spring. He colors everything with super-bright shades and sprinkles cherry and dragonfly patterns on chiffon dresses and skirts. Known for unexpected details, Waldron also embroiders those cherries and dragonflies into linings and sews little frogs inside pocket flaps. Fans, of course, will love the sweet cashmeres and appealing on a global stage. the bouclé jackets the house is famous for. Last year, the ratio of ex- ports to production of tex- Waldron is also introducing a capsule collection tiles, clothing and leather called Premiere. Priced slightly lower than the goods remained constant at signature line, and aimed at a younger client, it features 21.2. According to Depart- a fresh take on those jackets. He pairs them with ment of Trade and Industry statistics, the value of exports kimono-inspired tops, sweet ribbon-embroidered skirts dropped by almost 20 per- and little denim knickers. cent from 2002 to just under ZAR 3 billion, or about $500 million at current exchange. The industry currently employs some 190,000 Rena Lange people and utilizes just over 80 percent of production capacity. Unfilled Premiere’s orders amounted to close to ZAR 3 million, or $500,000, in 2003. cotton and One area where South African fashion appears to have great Goddess rayon jacket, international potential is lingerie. “Our lingerie designs really do Factor silk T-shirt well,” said Chang. and silk and The Durban-based label Goddess Factor, designed by Cindy West, is elastin skirt. particularly well received in Continental Europe, and is stocked in Stoned boutiques in Ireland and the U.K. West conceived the idea of Goddess Cherrie Factor upon returning to South Africa in 2000, after years of working and showing in London as a designer. While Goddess Factor is sophisticated and sexy, West still tries to incorporate African elements with a cosmopolitan twist. During Fashion Week, for example, she showed bikinis shimmering with golden pieces that were actually coconuts. Robyn Lidsky, the Cape Town-based designer of Ruby lingerie, currently supplies stores in Australia, adding that her buyers are most interested in the velvet bow-at-the-back-tie panty. Lidsky believes Ruby has a chance of competing on an international level. “I think any brand that has its own unique style is more marketable internationally, because it presents a fresh product, a new take on something that hasn’t been done before. With Ruby, I am aiming to create a new lingerie design aesthetic that presents an alternative to traditional styles through its innovative use of color, print, trim and a sexy fit.” Traditional African beadwork, for instance, is represented in her designs, but reworked in a contemporary way, as seen in fringe-beaded neck chokers, as well as the more subtle layering and colorations of beading. Instead of the usual primary colors — red, yellow and green — strung side by side, Lidsky says, Ruby will have pastels or metallics. Lidsky will exhibit at the upcoming MAGIC show in Las Vegas. She currently has an agent based in Canada who handles the North American market. “We are aiming to get the brand exposed to the right buyers by being situated in a showroom,” she said. Ideally she aims to have a showroom on both the East and West Coasts. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Wool and 8 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 acetate jacket WWW.WWD.COM and cotton and polyester The Shape of Things pants.

NEW YORK — How do you like your jacket? Whether you’re a whimsical polkadot kind of girl or the fleet-chic type, Giorgio Armani’s got it covered. In his Armani Collezioni spring lineup, the designer explores a wide variety of ways to work a fitted jacket. But since Armani’s no one-trick pony, he also serves up looks — delicate day dresses, slim jeans, sporty pants — to complement all those jackets.

Beaded silk dress.

Silk and acetate dress and suede jacket.

Silk and polyester blazer, silk top and pants. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY WWDIn Transit Pages 9-15

The port of Hong Kong is expanding in advance of an anticipated export surge.

ports chasing china’s boom

By Vicki Rothrock Pacific and China Shipping. “We’re just afraid that they’re building too fast.” Shanghai now has the third-largest port in the world after Hong Kong and HONG KONG — They know it’s coming, so they’re building it. Singapore, which are first and second, respectively. In 2003, Shanghai Port’s The looming end of the quota system is expected to bring a boom in Chinese worldwide volume hit 11.3 million 20-foot containers, known as TEUs, with 25 exports of textiles and apparel, and the nation’s ports are investing heavily to berths. Shanghai Customs estimated the city will ship 25 million TEUs by 2020, increase their capacity in anticipation of that surge. a nearly 55 percent jump. Shipping and port executives said they are confident that China’s five major To meet that projection, the port is conducting a major expansion program. ports, including Hong Kong, will be prepared to handle the higher export vol- The construction of Wai Gao Qiao Phase 5 will be complete in October, increas- ume next year. But they said they’re urging apparel companies not to hold off on ing Shanghai Port’s capacity by more than 2 million TEUs, said Helen Huang, shipping goods until after Jan. 1, which could lead to severe congestion. That’s deputy general manager of the corporate affairs department for the Shanghai the day the 147 nations of the World Trade Organization are set to drop their International Port Group Co., a state-owned enterprise that owns and operates quotas on textiles and apparel. the port. Even with the quotas in place, Chinese The river port is also adding deep-water shipments of those goods to the U.S. have been berths on the island of Yang Shan. By the end of skyrocketing — they posted a 22.2 percent 2005 that island will be home to five deep-water increase to $12.79 billion for the 12 months berths on the China Eastern Sea. They will help ended in June, more than offsetting Hong accommodate larger cargo ships, which are set Kong’s 1.3 percent decline to $3.87 billion. to be introduced this year. These ships are When the quotas are lifted, importers will expected to hold 8,000 TEUs each, about twice no longer have to pay for the cost of quota the volume of the ships that currently call at charges, which can represent anywhere from Shanghai. 10 percent to half of a garment’s cost. That’s The island is almost 19 miles from the port made the holding off of shipments until after and will be linked by a bridge, one of the longest Jan. 1 a real temptation. such structures in the world. The first five January is historically a busy shipping sea- berths at Yang Shan, budgeted at 12 billion yuan, son because it sits between the Christmas hol- or $1.45 billion, are the first phase of a 20-year iday in the West and the Chinese New Year, project that anticipates 50 deep-water berths at said Elena Tosana, who is based in Shanghai its completion. as Italy trade lane manager for Schenker, a The Shanghai International Port Group has German logistics and forwarding company also formed joint ventures with local companies that has had offices in China for 25 years. along the Yangtze River, where Shanghai Port is All the main carriers — air and ship — are located. These ventures have invested in port adjusting their availability of empty contain- terminals, warehouses and logistics facilities in ers, Tosana said, but there will be congestion Chinese officials are building a bridge more than 19 miles long to smaller cities along the river, such as Chongqing, in January, she added. “We are sure of that.” connect the island of Yang Shan with the mainland near Shanghai. Wuhan, Nanjing and Changsha. So far, 10 to 12 Tosana has been recommending that investments have been made, Huang said. clients not trust the odds that shipments scheduled for a Jan. 1 departure will Shanghai Port can receive more cargo through these river ports, bypassing arrive at their destinations on time. Even if it costs more because of the added the need to transport cargo by land for long distances to Shanghai Port, she said, quota charge, she suggests they should still ship their urgent items early. adding that customers will save money because water transport is generally Kim Khoo, executive director at Linmark Group, a Hong Kong sourcing compa- cheaper than land transport. ny that also handles shipping coordination for its clients, is giving similar advice. But it isn’t just Shanghai that is pumping up its shipping capacity. All the There are two groups of customers, Khoo said: The first group wants to plan ports in China are growing at a similar rate, Huang said. As a result, “I don’t early and have their inventory early for fear of a mad rush; the second group is think there is a big problem in handling an increase of cargo, but we are still fac- willing to “wait and see what will happen with Christmas sales.” ing capacity constraints” in Shanghai, she said. “We’re building ports very fast, But Khoo is advising customers it is likely that people will be rushing, and the but the economy is growing even faster.” recommendation is to ship early: “It’s better to be early than late,” Khoo added. In Hong Kong, total volume handled last year was about 20.4 million TEUs. For the longer term, observers said they are confident that China’s ports can By the end of this year, Terminal 9 will be completed there, giving the world’s cope with the expected upsurge in orders. largest port a total of 24 container terminals that can each handle 800,000 TEUs. “Major ports — Shenzhen, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Ningbo, Zhejiang — are all “With this figure, we should be able to handle any possible expected growth,” planning to expand aggressively,” said Ashley Cheung, an equity analyst at South said Henry Lee, executive director at the Hong Kong Container Terminal China Research, based in Hong Kong, who deals with clients such as Cosco Operators Association. BRIDGE PHOTO BY EPA/ZHU GANG/LANDOV.COM; HONG KONG PHOTO BY JAMES MARSHALL/CORBIS PHOTO BY HONG KONG GANG/LANDOV.COM; EPA/ZHU BRIDGE PHOTO BY 10 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004

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IN TRANSIT high oil prices threaten shippers

Shipping executives said that sustained high oil prices could take a toll on their costs. PHOTO BY BEHROUZ MEHRI/AFP/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY

By Kristi Ellis “In every trade [route] where apparel is sourced, from Africa to Asia, the Middle East and Central and South America, oil prices go up and down like a WASHINGTON — Steamship companies and importers have so far managed to roller coaster,” Moore said. “Carriers try to recover what they can as much as handle the soaring price of petroleum, but executives warn that it if remains at or possible because it is such a large variable.” near its current high level, it will eventually take a toll on their bottom lines. Moore said surcharges are higher in accordance with higher prices for U.S. oil prices have ballooned over the past year, on Friday setting a record processed fuel. high that was 70.4 percent higher than the most recent low, set in September. The “The price of [fuel] on a shipment does not have any effect that is readily no- price of light sweet crude oil reached $46.05 a barrel on the New York Mercantile ticeable,” said Moore. “The price of gas and oil in general could have an effect on Exchange on Monday. By comparison, light crude oil prices a year ago stood at consumer pocketbooks.” $30.78 a barrel, according to the American Petroleum Institute, with the Sept. 22 Shippers, always concerned about any fuel surcharges carriers might impose on low being $26.96. them, have not felt much of a pinch this month, according to Hubert Wiesenmaier, The U.S. imports more than $77.9 billion worth of textiles and apparel each executive director of the American Import Shippers Association, which negotiates year, which represents more than 90 percent of all clothing sold at retail in the contracts with 10 ocean carriers for 200 apparel and footwear members. country. Executives said the majority of apparel imported to the U.S. arrives by Apparel importers pay roughly $5,000, plus surcharges, per 40-foot container ship and is then transported to distribution centers by truck, so a sharp spike in from Hong Kong to New York, for example, he said, adding that fuel surcharges oil prices for ocean freight could raise industrial transportation costs for retailers. have increased in the last few months from $185 to $230 per 40-foot container. The cost of jet fuel, for goods shipped by air, as well as diesel fuel for trucks “That is not a make-or-break surcharge,” Wiesenmaier said. “Shippers real- and trains, is also affected by the run-up in petroleum prices. For transportation ize all prices are volatile and depend on political situations, so the only comfort within the U.S., retailers tend to rely more on trucks than trains, which are more they have is that prices don’t go up and down every week, which can be very commonly used to transport bulk commodities such as grain. disruptive.” The price of oil is also driving up the cost of synthetic fibers, most of which are pe- He said shippers negotiate caps on fuel surcharges in contracts with carriers, troleum-derived. On Monday, Wellman Inc. said it will be raising its prices for poly- which have developed a formula for assessing surcharges, based on a weighted ester staple fiber by 3 cents a pound beginning on Sept. 1, a week after DAK Americas average, that are adjusted on a quarterly basis. That reduces the impact of a LLC warned that it planned to hike its polyester staple prices by 8 to 10 percent. spike in any one month, spreading it out over a quarter. Observers warned that the rising materials and transportation costs could Robin Lanier, a transportation consultant to the National Retail Federation, have the damaging effect of raising retail prices at a time when consumers have said the biggest impact of higher oil prices has been on independent owner-oper- already had their disposable income pinched at the gas pump. ator truckers that move containers from the ports to distribution centers. “There is a potential here for a double whammy,” said Julia Hughes, vice pres- In early July, nonunionized truckers, upset over low wages and high fuel ident of international trade at the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & prices, staged two days of strikes at East Coast ports, including Port Newark, N.J., Apparel. “Companies are forced to pass through any major price increases to and the Port of Charleston, S.C. The strikes slowed the flow of goods temporarily, consumers.” but did not have a lasting impact on retailers’ businesses. For the time being, ocean carriers and importers said, they’ve been able to ab- “The fuel issue is becoming a rallying cry for these folks,” said Lanier, who sorb the higher prices. How long they will be able to continue to do so remains to also serves as executive director of the Waterfront Coalition. “Costs are going up, be seen. but I think shipping is such a small percentage of the cost of goods sold. Mass “The real question is whether higher energy costs are going to be sustained or merchants watch every penny and dime, and they don’t like any prices going up, whether this is a temporary phenomenon,” said Carl Steidtmann, chief econo- so there is some concern.” mist at Deloitte Research. While shipping is a relatively small component of mass merchants’ cost struc- To put things in perspective, he noted that oil’s current high is nowhere near ture — executives described it as typically only a few percentage points — their its record levels. ability to offer low prices is highly dependent on keeping all costs down, which is “The peak price for oil in the early Eighties was $100 a barrel,” he said. “Oil inven- one reason shipping company executives keep a close eye on all components of tories are at record highs, and traditionally that has a depressing effect on prices.” their cost structure. Most contracts between ocean carriers and shippers contain fuel surcharge Lanier said increases in fuel prices translate into a small net increase in the clauses, which rise when oil prices increase and decline when they slide, accord- price of goods at the point of sale. ing to Brian Moore, director of apparel sales at Maersk Sealand Inc., a ship oper- “Consumers get hit in two ways,” Lanier said. “The price of goods goes up a tiny ator. He said fuel costs vary from port to port around the world. bit, and they have less disposable income when they pay more at the gas pump.” Your bottom line requires superior global transportation

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IN TRANSIT rot terdam’s reach

By Emilie Marsh Most of Reebok’s Europe-bound footwear and textiles passes through the Rotterdam port. PARIS — Europe’s largest seaports are gearing up for gridlock. The recent addition of 10 countries into the European Union — bringing the trade and political bloc to 25 member nations — and the coming end of the quotas on textiles and apparel in 2005 have left Europe’s leading harbors struggling to make space for an uptick in already colossal shipping volumes. The growth is particularly evident at Holland’s Port of Rotterdam, which is Europe’s largest anchor- age serving container ships that carry the standard 20-foot and 40-foot corrugated boxes used worldwide to transport everything from toys to T-shirts. “The boom in the container business is going to continue,” said a spokesman for the Port of Rotterdam. He noted the port last year handled 361.6 million tons of cargo. Through the first six months of this year, it’s running 8 percent ahead of last year’s vol- ume and is expected to be up 8 to 10 percent this year, he said. The Rotterdam port — the seventh busiest in the world — traces its modern beginnings to 1872, when a new waterway gave Rotterdam deep-water access to the North Sea. Today, the port facilities extend from the old harbor all the way to the ocean, some 30 miles. It continues to grow. Last month the Dutch govern- ment announced it would fund Maasvlakte 2, a gar- gantuan expansion project budgeted to cost 2.57 bil- lion euros, or about $3.14 billion at current exchange rates. The project will expand the port by 20 percent —2,470 acres — with 60 percent of the new space for container handling and storage. The remaining There is great expansion pressure on the container side due space will be devoted to chemicals, warehouses and “ other shipping facilities. to the growth in volume driven by China’s exports. “There is great expansion pressure on the con- ” tainer side due to the growth in volume driven by — Neil Davidson, Drewry Shipping Consultants China’s exports,” said Neil Davidson, senior analyst and director of ports at Drewry Shipping year’s bombings in Spain demonstrated that any Last year, the European Union imported $107.32 Consultants. “Europe’s northern ports and in partic- means of transport could be a target of attacks. As a billion worth of goods from China. China is not the ular Rotterdam are responding to that pressure in result, the International Maritime Organization in- only country responsible for the increased traffic in order to remain competitive with rival ports such as troduced the International Ship & Port Facility Europe’s ports. Exports from the EU’s new members, Antwerp, Belgium, as well as Hamburg and Security codes in December 2002, outlining new se- particularly the Baltic states, are beginning to make Bremerhaven, both in Germany. Rotterdam wants to curity measures for port facilities and vessels. These a substantial contribution. The port in Hamburg, 300 maintain its position as the leading European port.” security measures were put into effect July 1. miles from Rotterdam, reported a 15.9 percent in- The recent implementation of stricter security “Most of the major ports have gotten their act to- crease in its container shipping in the first six codes has not slowed the container business. The gether to meet the new security regulations,” said months of 2004, the strongest growth of all northern Sept. 11, 2001 terrorist attacks in the U.S. and this Davidson of Drewry Shipping. continental seaports. Many apparel companies, heavily dependent on im- A view of Rotterdam’s port. ports, have set up distribution centers in the port of Rotterdam to supply their facilities throughout Europe. Reebok International Ltd., for example, established its European distribution center at the port in 1998. “Eighty percent of inbound textiles and almost all inbound footwear come from the Far East,” said Klaus Daeublin, customer service manager at Reebok’s European distribution center. Today, Reebok’s distribution center in Rotterdam acts as the central nervous system for distribution of the company’s merchandise in Europe. Daeublin noted that 80 percent of Reebok’s total imported vol- ume to the distribution center in Rotterdam arrives in sea containers. “Air freight is very expensive, therefore we try to limit its use,” he said. Meanwhile, Rotterdam’s rival ports are moving ahead to increase their capacity. The growing scale of the shipping sector, which is relying on increasing- ly massive vessels, longer than three football fields and with drafts of 50 feet, has severely intensified the competitive pressure on European ports. In Antwerp, the port saw a 7.1 percent increase in traffic. Its port, only 102 miles by sea from Rotterdam, is expected to open a new dock next year. Antwerp is the main European harbor for Levi Strauss Europe. Levi’s uses primarily road routes for its inbound traffic originating from within the EU, central European countries, Turkey and the Mediterranean. “Sea freight represents 15 percent of the total in- bound logistics and consists mostly of tops coming from the Far East,” said Cor Loots Sr., director of dis- tribution, logistics and customer service for Levi Strauss Europe. Until you can beam your threads across the Internet, there’s FedEx.

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IN TRANSIT securit y’s sticker shock

By Joanna Ramey

WASHINGTON — Port security is a key issue in the presidential campaign, but there is something Republicans and Democrats agree on: There’s not enough money in federal coffers to pay for the bil- lions of dollars needed to keep imported cargo or entire port facilities from being terrorist targets. Lawmakers have grappled with how to pay for increased port security since the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, but so far have sidestepped the issue of how importers, exporters, ocean carriers, freight forwarders and others in the international commerce supply chain might also shoulder the cost. Port users, particularly importers, are now clamoring for Congress to reach a funding solution, and say they aren’t averse to paying their share to prevent terrorist sabotage at ports or weaponry from being smuggled in the 7 million cargo containers arriving in the U.S. each year. “Maybe it could be an across-the-board fee, as long as the money is then earmarked for security use,” said Frank Kelly, vice president of trade compliance and government affairs at Liz Claiborne Inc. Port security funding also has gained renewed urgency since release last month of the 9/11 Commission report, which stressed the need to improve all U.S. anti-terrorism security, including at ports. “The current efforts do not yet reflect a forward-looking strategic plan, systematically analyzing assets, risks, costs and benefits,” the commission said. Despite this warning, a long-term decision about who will pay and how much is expected to be delayed until next year. Lawmakers have little time left on their agenda this year, expecting to adjourn by October after one more month of de- liberations in September. It’s also an election year during which lawmakers are keen on not an- Lawmakers are grappling with port security costs. “There’s just not gering any constituency. Levying any cargo surcharge might be viewed enough money,” said Robin Lanier, left. as a tax, and choices made about where to fund anti-terrorism efforts could be criticized. that $400 million in DHS funds to be dedicated to port security, “A lot of these terrorism issues are going to be played to see if they but the House has only voted for $125 million and the Senate is are potential campaign issues,” said Julia Hughes, vice president of in- weighing a $150 million allocation. ternational trade with the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & However, Sen. Ernest Hollings (D., S.C.) is expected to offer Apparel. “I would expect a continuation of the current port policies an amendment to the DHS bill asking that $500 million a year until after the election.” be set aside for ports. The money would come from the roughly At the same time, ports next year and beyond are facing new $20 billion a year now collected in import tariffs, almost half of Congressional security mandates, such as using container X-ray ma- which comes from apparel and textile shipments. But retailers chines and creating computerized security systems, and don’t yet have and other importers are resisting this idea because they don’t the money to implement all the changes. want to be the only port users to shoulder the cost. On deck for Congressional consideration next month is the 2005 In the past three years, the Bush administration’s port plans budget for the Department of Homeland Security. U.S. ports have asked have mainly focused on keeping terrorist weaponry from being smuggled onto U.S.-bound containers. U.S. Customs officers have been stationed at 16 foreign ports and seven more are soon to be manned. Together, those 23 ports — from Hong Kong to Halifax — account for more than two-thirds of all U.S. import trade by volume. Working with local authorities, terrorist intelligence experts and cargo manifests, inspectors decide whether to X-ray or open containers for inspection. The administration also has put security demands on importers and ocean carriers in areas such as loading cargo and providing detailed shipping mani- Your supply chain has to fests 24 hours before embarkation. For his part, Democratic presidential candidate Massa- pull a lot of weight. chusetts Sen. John Kerry finds fault with Bush’s port security and has expressed alarm that only 5 percent of the containers arriving in the U.S. are inspected. Kerry hasn’t advocated more hand in- spections of containers — a step that trade officials claim would cause massive backups and disrupt the U.S. economy — but has called for more technology at ports, such as container X-ray ma- chines, improved cargo data and port intelligence sharing. The X-ray machines are costly and the techniques for using them to inspect the standard 20-foot-long and 40-foot-long con- tainers are still evolving. A new $4.5 million machine called the Eagle, which can scan 90 percent of a container’s contents in two minutes, is being tested this month in Georgia’s Port of Savannah. For apparel industry importers, the quandary is finding the right balance between developing security methods that work efficiently, without incurring too much extra cost and time in the import process. “We need to resolve the funding issue,” said Erik Autor, vice president and international trade counsel with the National Retail Federation, whose department and specialty store mem- With so much riding on your supply chain, bers depend on imports entering the U.S. without a hitch. why trust it to just anybody? Autor said retailers are pressing for port security costs to be shared among all parties in the supply chain. He said the gov- For over 20 years, Waitex has provided end-to-end ernment should avoid creating a special “container tax.” supply chain solutions for hundreds of satisfied “Port security is for the benefit of the nation’s security as a clients. From warehouse distribution and internet mail whole,” the NRF executive said. “Funding can be worked out in order fulfillment to the latest in IT solutions including commercial contracts between port authorities...terminals and carriers” and importers, he said. “Quite frankly, by negotiating EDI, order processing and remote access — we make these in the contract, that will allow greater flexibility in find- sure every link of your supply chain is solid. With ing the actual price for security.” 800 service specialists and over 2 million square feet Updating the nation’s 55 largest ports and paying for the secu- of modern distribution facilities located in NY, NJ, rity improvements is expected to remain an issue for some time. and LA, we can satisfy all your needs — no matter “There’s just not enough money,” said trade consultant Robin Lanier, who is executive director of the Waterfront how much pull your company has. Coalition, representing retailers, importers, exporters, trans- To learn more about what Waitex can do for you portation companies and others in the supply chain. or to arrange a free assessment of your company just The U.S.’ largest commercial ports form an aging system. contact Candice or Leslie. Officials have estimated it will cost from $7 billion to $10 billion over the next 10 years to make them more secure. Jay Grant, a lobbyist with the American Association of Port P:: 212.967.8100 F: 212.967.8266 WAITEX.COM [email protected] Authorities said when considering the lack of funding in the 135 W. 36TH STREET, 4TH FLR. NEW YORK, NY 10018 face of the threat posed by inadequate port security, “the whole picture gets scarier and scarier.” Or, you can go with us.

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maersksealand.com 16 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004

Te xtiles & Trade Report Performance Fabrics Go Mainstream

By Evan Clark NEW YORK — The Olympic athletes in Athens might need high-perform- ance fabrics more than the spectators at home, but textiles firms are chasing both groups with vigor. An increasing number of high tech fibers and fabrics, with properties ranging from moisture management and skin softening to muscle compres- sion, are vying for an increased share of the performance mar- ket, whether it be for yoga, mountain climbing or biking. Despite their various uses, many of the fabrics are made with a focus on a single goal. “If there was one umbrella, I would say it was com- fort,” said Iris LeBron, fashion director for intimate, active and swim at Invista. “They all want to be comfortable and that means very different things to very different people.” Runners, for instance, want pants and tops with muscle-compression fabric that fits snug- ly enough to hold working muscles stable. Invista’s Lycra Power spandex offers muscle- compression properties. Yoga aficionados are another group that needs the stretch that spandex provides, but has very dif- Huntingdon The performance-fabric market, Mills/Milliken fer- Mills/Milliken “ Chemical’s to my mind, during the last 12 PurEffort months has gone through a rebirth. SkinTech fleece. — David Parkes, Concept” III ent comfort needs. For them, there are fabrics with finish- es that help soften skin as a body lotion would by releas- ing aloe or vitamin E when they stretch. Comfort and fashion were themes echoed by sev- eral textile and apparel executives. “They want to look pretty while they work out,” said Susan Wexler, vice president of design for Danskin. She noted that garments with muscle-com- An outfit with pression properties work double duty — since chlorine- the compression supports softer fatty tissues, as resistant well as firm muscles. spandex from “It’s close to the body, it’s good for the muscle, RadiciSpandex. especially for somebody who has a high activity level,” said Wexler. “It also smooths you out and makes you look really good.” Danskin produces performance activewear with bold colors, yoga-style looks geared toward gentler pursuits and dance apparel. “We’re expanding into triathlon wear,” she said. “One of the things that Danskin really stands for is fashion and femininity, and we really think we can bring those Warshow’s nylon and Lycra ABRIC PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE ABRIC PHOTOS BY spandex ripstop. F

attributes forward in the functional market.” Bill Girrier, vice president of marketing and sales at RadiciSpandex, said the styling of performance fabrics often “con- notes activity — it races the heart.” “A lot of the colors you see in biker-type attire — you’ll see peo- Toray to Boost Chori Stake ple wearing that stuff around because it connotes a lifestyle,” he said. “With the Olympics, I think you’ll see a lot of people wearing TOKYO — Toray Industries Inc., Japan’s largest fiber producer, is expected athletic apparel even if they’re not active.” this month to take over majority control of Chori Co., another leading tex- In additional to being comfortable and stylish, performance fab- tiles and chemicals trading company. rics have to be tough enough to withstand vigorous pursuits and fre- Toray, which owns a 22.9 percent stake in Chori, expects to increase its quent washing. equity share to 51.5 percent by buying 28.6 percent of Chori’s equity from RadiciSpandex sells spandex that is resistant to the degrading Asahi Kasei Corp. effects of chlorine, body oils and ultraviolet light. Asahi has agreed to sell all its holdings in Chori to Toray. The buyout plan has “You have to protect it from the things that are going to attack the the support of Chori’s management, according to Toray, which reportedly is offering fiber,” said Girrier. “Spandex isn’t bulletproof.” to pay about 1.8 billion yen, or $16.3 million at current exchange, for the shares. Fabrics aimed at other areas of the performance market, such as Chori’s performance has improved markedly in the past year, with the rock climbing or mountain biking, are toughened up with abrasion- firm making its first profit in 13 years. For the current fiscal year, Chori is Continued on opposite page forecasting net income of 3.6 billion yen, or $33 million, on consolidated sales of 250 billion yen, or $2.3 billion. Toray said both companies will benefit from the closer working relation- ship, noting that Chori has many years of experience in trading not only in Japan, but also in China and other overseas markets. — Tsukasa Furukawa

ASIAN FABRICS ONLINE: Pearl River, the shop- TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. ping emporium located in New York’s SoHo SWATCHES district, has begun selling a line of Chinese TIGER TRIMMING, INC. satin brocade and cotton fabrics through its online store, pearlriver.com. 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 Included in the selection are 10 brocade and two cotton patterns. Prices (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 range from $7.50 to $15.50 per yard, all in a 36-inch width. email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com In October, two new series of fabrics will be introduced: a line of indigo- dyed cottons made with natural dyes and a group of exotic prints on polyester. WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 17 WWW.WWD.COM

Continued from opposite page resistance fabrics, such as Spandura, a branded blend of nylon and spandex marketed by New York-based H. Warshow and Sons. Warshow, which continues to man- ufacture in the U.S., markets its per- formance fabrics not only to athletes, but also to the military, which is a growing part of the firm’s business. “The performance-fabric market, to my mind, during the last 12 months has gone through a rebirth,” said David Parkes, president of Concept III, a marketing company that sells fabrics and yarns to the technical outdoor market. “The consumer is more and more tuned to performance textiles. Yoga apparel is very strong right now. That consumer recognizes the impor- tance of Lycras, the importance of wickabili- ty, the importance of performance fabrics.” Concept III this month introduced a new generation of wicking polypropylene knits An active with Kingwhale Industries called M-F, which are resistant to odor. Kingwhale look from determined that prior generations of the Danskin. fabric had absorbed a lubricant used on the mill machinery, which could in turn trap body oils and secretions, and encourage the buildup of odor. The new generation of the fabric is free of the residue. Huntington Mills is also attacking odor with new fabrics. The mill just launched two fabrics, PurEffort Interlock and PurEffort Fleece, under its SkinTech umbrella. The PurEffort fabrics offer antimicrobial protection and moisture management with DAK America’s Delcron HydroPur polyester fiber and Milliken & Co.’s AlphaSan antimicrobial agent. David Waters, vice president of sales and marketing for Huntington Mills, described the performance-fabric market as a “lifestyle business.” While many products are developed to meet the needs of high-performance athletes, he said, they tend Tessuto Scopio’s cotton, polyester This nylon blend from Darlington features a to “cascade across the other consumer segments.” and Invista’s T-400 Lycra spandex, which is chlorine-resistant RadiciSpandex. chlorine-resistant and has a higher tear strength.

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to New York, NY Westerly, RI One Davis Drive, learnmore Phone: (212) 279-7733 Fax: (212) 564-5325 Phone: ((401) 596-2816 Fax: (401) 596-8550 P.O. Box 12215, www.darlingtonfabrics.com www.georgecmoore.com Research Triangle Park, tel 919-549-3531 NC 27709, USA fax 919-549-8933 Los Angeles Los Angeles Phone: (818) 786-4010 Fax: (818) 786-4033 Phone: (323) 255-9705 Fax: (323) 255-9893 web www.aatcc.org Intimates • Swimwear • Activewear • Sportswear • Surgical/Medical 18 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Storm Seen Impacting August Comps by 2% IMAGES PHOTO MARIO TOMA/GETTY BY Consumers shuffle past a storm-swept Dollar General store in Florida. Continued from page one morning, picking up by midday to “typical Saturday lev- the retailer would experience a sales surge in the com- as at BJ’s Wholesale Club, according to Deborah els.” He noted that many coastal residents had come in- ing months, but it’s likely stores will prosper, selling a Weinswig, analyst at Citigroup Smith Barney. land to Orlando to avoid the hurricane’s original pro- range of clothing and household necessities to rebuild- In a research note, Weinswig said she expects August jected path. Rather than serious shoppers, traffic ap- ing homeowners. comps at Federated, Neiman and BJ’s to be impacted by peared to be made up of more browsers using the mall Wal-Mart, which has built national television ad cam- the two storms, while discounters are expected to show as respite from homes and other areas that lacked paigns around its disaster-relief efforts, had sent 300 better results as “consumers purchased consumables in power, he said. The food court and the mall’s sit-down truckloads of donated bottled water and 100 truckloads anticipation of the storms.” restaurants were busy all day during the weekend. Mall of general merchandise, including lamps and flash- Weinswig is basing her estimate on an analysis of the traffic Monday was above average, he said. The 1.2 mil- lights, to the region as of Monday. exposure of these three retailers to Bonnie and Charley. lion-square-foot center is anchored by Bloomingdale’s, Three vacant Wal-Marts were offered for FEMA tempo- She said the number of stores exposed to the storms Neiman Marcus and Burdine’s-Macy’s, with 150 stores. rary housing and staging areas, while area stores set up do- was 15 percent for Federated and Neiman Marcus and Bell Tower Shops, a Madison Marquette property in nation trailers that would be on the premises until Sunday. 12 percent for BJ’s. This compares with exposures of 6 Fort Myers, Fla., closed Friday and Saturday, and lost The spokeswoman said affected associates could percent for Target Corp. and 5 percent for Wal-Mart power Saturday night. Restaurants reopened Sunday, apply to the retailer’s internal disaster relief fund or its Stores and J.C. Penney. and mall stores opened Monday, with the center fully critical need program for relief grants. The critical Weinswig’s analysis does have a silver lining: She ex- operational. need program is funded by other Wal-Mart associates pects strong selling in early August to “mask some of the Traffic has been good, said Becky Thompson, general who agree to voluntary payroll deductions. Wal-Mart, weakness as a result of the storms.” manager, who added that many people from nearby bar- facing wide-ranging criticism over its treatment of asso- On Monday, the hardest-hit areas in Florida were rier islands were staying in area hotels. No structural ciates, has been active in its attempts to portray itself as sorting through the destruction caused by Hurricane damage occurred, but the open-air mall’s lushly land- a compassionate and even-handed employer. Charley. State officials estimate $11 billion in damages. scaped trees and bushes were blown around. For Target, phone lines were down at the retailer’s Punta Gorda and Port Charlotte seemed to take the Lakeland Square, a General Growth Properties mall Port Charlotte store, but overall, the Minneapolis-based brunt of what Charley dished out. As of late Monday af- in Lakeland, Fla., around 150 miles northeast of Punta retailer seemed to have less exposure to the storm. The ternoon, one million people were still without power. Gorda, also experienced above-average traffic Saturday company’s Web site listed only three stores within 200 On the retail front, companies were affected in dif- through Monday, after closing early Friday. Rod Charles, miles of Punta Gorda. A Target spokeswoman did not re- ferent ways by the hurricane. About one-third of Simon general manager, mall accounting, said Friday’s loss turn a call at press time. Properties’ 35 Florida malls were in the projected path would probably be compensated by business over the J.C. Penney Co. said four stores in the central coastal of the hurricane and closed early either Thursday or weekend, as area residents flocked to the mall to escape area of Florida remain closed due to power outages and Friday afternoon. With the exception of three centers, hot weather and no air conditioning in area homes. flooding. Penney’s hopes to have the stores open by all reopened Saturday morning. Wal-Mart began shuttering and evacuating stores in Wednesday or Thursday, but said it may have to bring in Remaining closed Monday, still without electricity, Charley’s path late Thursday and early Friday, following generators if electrical power still hasn’t been restored. was Port Charlotte Town Center in Port Charlotte, Fla., National Weather Service recommendations. By Monday, “We’re still assessing damage and making repairs,” said near Sarasota. The mall sustained no major damage, three stores were still closed, awaiting generators and a company spokesman. “We were lucky and don’t think though a spokeswoman said some skylights were blown fuel, said a spokeswoman. Of the 75 stores affected, she the minor damage we received will amount to signifi- out and landscaping was affected. The center is an- said most suffered power outages rather than significant cant sales losses.” chored by Burdine’s-Macy’s, Dillard’s, J.C. Penney, physical damage and were able to use supplementary Sears Roebuck said five stores in Florida lost power, but Beall’s and Sears, with 115 mall stores. electrical sources to get up and running quickly. as of 11 a.m. Monday, only three were still without power, in Two other Simon properties, Edison Mall in Fort Phone lines were down at the Wal-Mart in Punta Port Charlotte, Sebring and Lake Wales. “Even though Myers and The Florida Mall near Orlando, reopened Gorda store and there was no answer at the Port stores were without power, they were selling generators Monday. Neither were structurally damaged and no in- Charlotte Supercenter. and other storm-related items, using cash and checks. We juries were reported. Downed tree limbs and debris “No gas cans, no ice, no garbage cans, no duct tape. are still trying to be very helpful to folks. Of course, the hur- were mostly cleaned up over the weekend. The Florida Otherwise, we’re in good shape,” reported a Wal-Mart ricane will have some impact on business, but we can’t say Mall is one of Simon’s largest, a 1.9 million-square-foot associate who answered the phone at a store in the exactly how much at this point,” a spokesman said, adding center with seven anchors, including Dillard’s, coastal community of Englewood, Fla., 15 miles north- that damage to stores was minimal. Nordstrom, Sears, Saks Fifth Avenue, J.C. Penney, Lord east of Punta Gorda. She said the store would be open Saks Inc. said five Saks Fifth Avenue stores in & Taylor and Burdine’s-Macy’s, with 240 mall stores. 24 hours, as usual. Naples, Fort Myers, Sarasota, Tampa and Orlando, Fla., Officials wouldn’t speculate on lost sales for Simon’s Closing a day could cause Wal-Mart Supercenters, and four Off 5th outlets, including one in South total Florida stores, which had average total sales of which average $100 million in sales annually, to lose Carolina, were closed between one and three days. As of $414 a square foot for the second quarter. roughly $300,000 in sales. Monday, however, all the affected stores were back in Another large property near Orlando, The Mall at Despite closure-related losses, consumers along the business, according to a spokeswoman. She also said Millenia, jointly owned by the Forbes Company and East Coast preparing for the storm made the region Wal- the stores were not damaged. Taubman Inc., closed Friday at 1 p.m. Around 70 to 75 Mart’s strongest performer last week, according to the re- The company said three Parisian stores in Florida percent of stores opened Saturday, on a voluntary basis, tailer’s recorded sales call. Sales of survival basics shot were closed for one or two days, and three Proffitt’s with all stores opening Sunday, according to Steven up, including water, duct tape, headlights, rope, matches, stores in North Carolina were closed a half day each. Jamieson, general manager. playing cards, toaster pastries and canned tuna. — With contributions from David Moin Jamieson said traffic started out slow on Saturday The spokeswoman would not speculate on whether and Arthur Zaczkiewicz, New York WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM Factory 2-U Tandy Earnings Dive 77.2% in Quarter By Arnold J. Karr The company completed its previously an- firm has begun test-marketing home acces- Liquidating nounced acquisition of Superior Merch- sories to mass merchants. NEW YORK — Tandy Brands Accessories saw andise, a gift accessories firm based in New For the year, net income dropped 1.4 per- its earnings and sales dwindle in the fourth Orleans, as of July 1. The company also boost- cent to $7 million, or $1.13 a share, from $7.1 All Assets quarter as it battled softness in women’s ac- ed its quarterly dividend 10 percent to 2.75 million, or $1.20. The year-ago numbers in- NEW YORK — Bankrupt Fac- cessories sold through mass merchandisers. cents a share. The dividend is payable Oct. 19 clude a $581,000 pretax charge reflecting an tory 2-U Stores Inc. has In the three months ended June 30, net agreed to sell all its assets to a income for the Arlington, Tex.-based acces- newly formed company for sories producer contracted 77.2 percent to Nothing immediately emerged to take the place of $28 million. $151,000, or 2 cents a diluted share, from To facilitate the purchase, $663,000, or 11 cents, in the year-ago period. “some older trends in women’s for the mass channel. National Stores Inc., The Sales dropped 13.2 percent to $44.5 million ” Alamo Group, Garcel Inc. (op- from $51.2 million. — Britt Jenkins, Tandy Brands Accessories erating as The Great “Nothing immediately emerged to take American Group), and the the place of some older trends in women’s Ozer Group LLC formed for the mass channel,” Britt Jenkins, presi- to shareholders of record as of Sept. 30. accounting change. Revenues were off 4 per- Factory 2-U Acquisition LLC. dent and chief executive officer, said in a Jenkins noted the acquisition of Superior cent to $215.4 million from $224.5 million. The agreement, which phone interview. “Everybody’s banking on is the 14th the company has made since The firm expects to earn $1.28 to $1.36 a states that the company will color right now, including us, and we’ll see 1990 and should add 6 cents to earnings per share on sales of $220 million to $229 mil- take on Factory 2-U’s inven- whether that’s the answer pretty soon.” share in the new fiscal year. He also said the lion in the new fiscal year. tory and lease obligations at its stores and distribution center, must receive approval from the bankruptcy court. “We believe this process, which allows for higher or better bids for our company to be submitted by other in- The World’s Largest Garment and Textile Sourcing Show terested parties at an auction, will generate the best avail- Las Vegas Hilton • Aug. 29 - Sept. 1, 2004 able outcome for the compa- ny and its constituents,” said Norman G. Plotkin, chief ex- ecutive officer, in a statement. The company hopes to garner those higher bids at an auction scheduled for August 31 in Wilmington, Del. A hearing regarding the cur- rent agreement or any higher bids offered has been sched- uled for September 2. Management also indicat- ed that, regardless of the out- come, the company’s share- holders will likely be left with nothing to show. “Based Featuring 300+ full-package apparel factories from over 45 countries on the proposed terms of the transaction and indications of interest received to date from other parties, Factory 2- U does not believe that any distribution will be made to its shareholders following completion of the sale,” said the company in a statement.

Nautica Shutters Pakistan featured as Focus Country New York Flagship Experience the strength of Pakistan’s apparel production NEW YORK — The end came quietly Monday for Nautica’s be- leaguered 50 Rockefeller Plaza flagship, as signs went up in the store’s windows announcing its closure. The store’s doors were locked, and employees turned away potential customers. T: 626.636.2530 The bi-level, 14,000-square- Bringing the foot store opened with much fan- F: 626.636.2536 fare in April 2001 — with an opening party the following E: [email protected] month that attracted Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and Boomer Esiason World to You — but it was plagued by weak sales from the get-go. The store was originally expected to ring up sales of $10 million to $12 mil- lion in its first year, but just six months after its debut Nautica REGISTER ONLINE NOW was already reporting a challeng- ing retail environment at the pricey location, with full-price www.asapshow.com selling below expectations. In the third quarter of fiscal 2003 the company recorded a spe- PRODUCED BY CYBER MERCHANTS EXCHANGE cial charge of $6.5 million related to the write-down of fixed assets An OTCBB listed company, ticker symbol “CMEE”. Copyright reserved 2003 at the Rockefeller Plaza flagship. Calls to Nautica and VF rep- 4349 Baldwin Ave. #A, El Monte, CA 91731 resentatives were not returned by press time. — David Lipke 20 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM MEMO PAD Bergdorf Goodman CIRC PERKS UP: At last, a batch of circulation data publishers can look at without cringing. The latest report from the Audit Bureau of Circulations, released Monday, shows improvement for a majority of magazines in Launches Flirt First the beauty and fashion arena during the first half of 2004. That’s not surprising, By Julie Naughton considering that the period for comparison, the first half of 2003, was the worst in NEW YORK — Bergdorf Goodman is taking another step into the memory for newsstand sales, thanks to the masstige world. confluence of war, miserable weather and a The high-end specialty store has installed part of Estée Lauder’s sluggish economy. Among the magazines new BeautyBank’s Flirt color cosmetics line on its fifth floor — even reporting growth in single-copy sales for the though the brand will not roll out to its primary vendor, Kohl’s first half were Vogue (up 10.5 percent to Department Stores, until October. Bergdorf Goodman put in two gon- 474,042), Lucky (up 18.1 percent to dolas containing roughly 75 percent of the line late last week; ac- 260,203), Harper’s Bazaar (up 6.7 percent to cording to Lauder, the retailer will not carry the line’s powders, con- 183,302), Glamour (up 9.2 percent to cealers or foundations. 972,769), Cosmopolitan (up 7.6 percent to 2 This marks the second occasion when Bergdorf ’s is introducing a million) and Jane (up 16.5 percent to brand also sold to more of a moderate or mass consumer. The retailer 133,115). The newsstand was less kind to W will introduce Isaac Mizrahi’s (down 16.7 percent to 43,064) and In Style high-end women’s line this fall; (off 1.1 percent to 932,857). In the men’s In Style’s September cover. BEAUTY BEAT Mizrahi designs a lower-priced col- field, Esquire, GQ, Men’s Health, Men’s lection for Target. In July, the two Journal and Playboy were all up on newsstand, testing was stalling a partial redesign, In Style lines were shown on the same runway at a fashion show in New York. while Details, FHM, Maxim and Stuff were off. has revamped its front-of-book section for A Kohl’s spokeswoman confirmed Monday that the rollout of Flirt Vogue, Lucky, Glamour, Jane, W, Details and GQ September. The biggest changes can be found in to Bergdorf ’s was not a surprise, although she declined further com- are all owned by Advance Publications Inc., the fashion pages: “The Look” is sporting a ment. Kevin Mansell, president and chief executive of Kohl’s, was parent of WWD. — Jeff Bercovici cleaner layout and new fonts, and “Fashion said to be traveling Monday and not available for comment. 101” has seen a complete overhaul. “We were The pairing between BeautyBank and Bergdorf ’s is said to have WITLESS SAMPLERS: If the media world seemed bored with basic merch stories every month,” been in development for several weeks. to grind to a crushing halt on Monday, the Prada said fashion director Cynthia Weber Cleary. “And sample sale may have been to blame: All we weren’t delivering on the promise of ‘Fashion Items from the Flirt collection. afternoon, the movers and shakers of Midtown 101,’ which should be a basic lesson.” A were skipping lunch at Lever House, cutting departure from previous “101s,” which told conference calls short and rescheduling readers how to shop for items such as bras, afternoon meetings to sneak off to the sale in jeans or handbags, the September story is an in- the Fuller Building on East 57th Street. Spotted depth guide to organizing your closet and sifting through treasure troves from the spring whipping your fall wardrobe into shape. There’s collection were New York magazine editor in even a tear sheet shopping list, i.e. “down parka chief Adam Moss, writer Lynn Hirschberg, Elle (if climate dictates).” New York transplant Paula fashion director Nina Garcia, Teen Vogue editor Reed, who, until recently, was fashion director at in chief Amy Astley, actress Rashida Jones (with British In Style and presumably brought a parka her mother, Peggy Lipton), public relations with her from London, wrote the text. “It’s really stalwart Nadine Johnson, club owner Amy Sacco a matter of us trying to share our strategies and and People managing editor Martha Nelson. expertise about getting dressed,” said Cleary, While most were too busy forming makeshift who, in addition to hunting for autumn boots, is dressing rooms and grabbing fistfuls of chiffon currently shopping for a new fashion writer. to voice concern, a few complaints managed to Cheryl Lu-Lien Tien is leaving the magazine for ricochet around the room: What season is this the Wall Street Journal, where she’ll be covering from? What, exactly, is a sample size? And, our interior design. In Style also is losing longtime favorite: Where is all the tie-dye? Allure editor in assistant photo editor Jean Cabacungan-Jarvis, chief Linda Wells skipped out of work to hit the who becomes deputy photo editor at Self next sale, but after seeing the throngs wading month, while photo producer Andrea Verdone is through blue-, yellow- and red-dotted heading to Lucky as an associate photo editor. merchandise — indicating prices 10, 25 and (Like WWD, Self and Lucky are owned by 50 percent off wholesale — she sighed, “What Advance Publications Inc.). Could it be, once am I doing here? I swore I’d never come to again, that redesign equals burnout? — S.J. another sample sale.” — Sara James Muriel Gonzalez, senior vice president and general merchandise BIG BLACK BOOK: Some may call them the elite, manager at Bergdorf ’s, said she already is seeing strong response HOUSE PROUD: Those tireless gossips who’ve but American Express just calls them its base. from the line on the store’s fifth floor — an area that is traditionally long claimed Condé Nast would either shelve or For the last six months, American Express devoted to up-and-coming designers as well as merchandise more shake up House & Garden finally have Publishing has been quietly working on moderately priced than that which occupies the retailer’s other something to chew on: Condé Nast president Centurion, a new magazine for its Centurion floors. As reported, the majority of Flirt’s color cosmetics range in and chief executive Charles Townsend replaced cardholders, who pay a hefty $2,500 annual price from $10 to $12. H&G’s publisher, Lori Burgess, with Joseph membership fee for the privilege of wielding a “We are getting Flirt first in the world, which is certainly part of Lagani on Monday. (Condé Nast is a unit of black American Express card with no preset the appeal,” said Gonzalez, adding she was attracted to the brand’s Advance Publications Inc., parent of WWD.) spending limit. (AEP already publishes color selection, compacts and the brand’s outer packaging, which is Lagani, a 16-year Meredith veteran who oversaw Departures for its Platinum cardholders.) So, color-keyed to the product inside. “Flirt is fun, innovative and ac- Country Home, Traditional Home and the what exactly does $2,500 buy in terms of cessible [cost-wise]. The packaging and the positioning are very American Baby group, will hold the title of vice editorial content? For starters, a fancy cover right for us. Already, we’re seeing customers purchasing four and president and publisher. “In the very short term, designed by Tomas Maier, creative director at five sku’s at a time.” my hope is to get out there and see clients as Bottega Veneta. “[Departures editor in chief] Added Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director soon as possible,” said Lagani, “to assure Richard Story had the idea of having a logoless for Bergdorf ’s, “We think [Flirt is] in keeping with the spirit of what people that, by virtue of the fact that they’ve cover,” Maier said of the collaboration, “and our fifth floor is all about, and we are excited to add this brand to the just hired a new publisher, Condé Nast has faith Bottega is a logoless product.” Maier’s design mix there.” in House & Garden and wants to see it grow.” — “a tri-dimensional, woven, all black, with no Gonzalez said there are no plans at present to move the brand Indeed, observers close to the company are name, nothing, absolutely no text” cover — into Bergdorf ’s beauty floor on the store’s lower level, and professed reading Lagani’s appointment as a sign that would undoubtedly be a tough sell at the to be unbothered by the fact that the brand will enter a lower-end de- Townsend has decided not to close the title or newsstand. Luckily, Centurion will be shipped partment store later this fall. At present, Kohl’s does not operate any fold it into Domino, the shelter-oriented directly to cardholders in what promises to be of its 589 units in Manhattan; however, it does operate stores in shopping magazine set to launch next year, as the world’s most expensive — and, since it’s Secaucus, Clifton, Paramus, Ramsey, Watchung, West Paterson and some speculated he would. While Lagani logoless, perhaps most confusing — magazine Wayne, N.J., and in Yonkers, Oceanside and Jericho, N.Y. becomes H&G’s third publisher in less than two subscription in history. An official spokeswoman Jane Hudis, general manager of the BeautyBank division of the years (Burgess replaced Brenda Saget Darling in for the company kept details of the launch close Estée Lauder Cos., said she and vice president of marketing Jane February of last year), there are indications its to the vest, saying only: “It will be unlike any Lauder chose to discuss a partnership with Bergdorf Goodman “due problems may not be limited to the ad sales other publication from American Express to the obvious synergies between Flirt and Bergdorf ’s fifth floor.” side. H&G’s newsstand sales were down 16.7 Publishing.” Word of Centurion comes just two “We are major fans of the fifth floor, as well as fans of Bergdorf’s,” percent in the first half of 2004, averaging weeks after AEP announced that Departures will said Hudis. “The fifth floor is an incredibly exciting place to shop. It 65,459. But the same insiders who’ve been expand with eight new European editions. has up-and-coming brands, as well as brands that are priced a bit predicting Burgess’ ouster for months believe Departures, which seemingly already has the below many on other floors in the retailer. I shop there, as does Jane editor in chief Dominique Browning’s job to be luxury market covered, has a four-page story on [Lauder]. Putting Flirt in that arena — say, when that shopper is out safe for now. —S.J. and J.B. vintage Cartier jewelry priced in the seven buying her Juicy Couture items — seemed to be a perfect fit.” figures in its September issue. Raising the Flirt will be unveiled to the public in a bigger way on Wednesday, IN STYLE GETS RESTYLED: After early — and question, what will the ultraexclusive Centurion when Bergdorf ’s cohosts an event celebrating New York’s biggest officially denied — reports that focus-group cover? — S.J. flirts with Hamptons and Gotham magazines. What makes a statement? The Biggest Issue Ever— 436 pages of advertising from the world’s most powerful brands. source: PIB

September 2004

MAKE A STATEMENT. 22 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer MERCHANDISER PRODUCTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER Asst Merchandiser/Sales Men’s sleepwear and lounge wear 2-3 yrs min exp in Women’s apparel or Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine related women’s textile. Need to be bi- fast work. 212-869-2699. company seeks creative, detail oriented, CLOSEOUTS WANTED highly motivated individual. Qualified lingual Eng/Chinese OR Eng/Korean. Ladies, Men’s, and Kids Apparel. Need individual should be proficient in Position avail for immed hire. Fax large quantities. Immed payment. Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7. Develop- resume to Excalibur at (212) 967-5959 Call: Barry 212-997-7487 ment of plaids, novelty & conversational or E-mail: [email protected] Email: [email protected] prints are needed. This individual should DESIGNER have a great work attitude and be able "ON THE MARKS" CLOSEOUTS WANTED to work in a fast paced work Leather, silks, fancies, upholstery fabrics Dollhouse is expanding and seeking experienced & creative FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS environment. Must be able to meet Merchandising / Sales ...... 125-160K and ribbons, remnants OK. Please call: WHOLESALE AND RETAIL designer for junior denim line. Experience with washes & fin- deadlines and be a team player. We 212-243-4913 Designers (many areas) ...... 40-150K ishing a must. Overseas travel required. Minimum 5 years ex- offer excellent health benefits and Planners / Analysts ...... 40-85K -RESUMES- salary to compensate experience. Product Development ...... 40-60K perience. Fax resume to: 212-842-4030 or Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates Please send resume to [email protected] or Fabric R&D ...... 40-85K GILBERT CAREER RESUMES email to: [email protected]. Production ...... 50-95K (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Fax to Human Resources: 212-302-0308 We are an equal opportunity employer. Merchandising Sales Asst...... 30-40K fashionresumes.com Tech Designers (yng mens) ...... 50-65K fashioncareercenter.com SaraMax Velour + Fleece BI-LINGUAL CHINESE Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708 Rib + Jersey Lycra FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 NYC Childrenswear co. Drake Fabrics •Childrenswear Prod’n Coord-Fabric $50K DESIGNER - JEWELRY Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews Manhattan based trend costume jewelry 718-389-8902 Rush Service Available seeks the following: •TD. L.I.C., NY. Mod Sportswr Mfr $45K Operations Mgr •Prod’n Assist. Recent Grad Okay!$25-35K company is seeking a jewelry designer Rousso Apparel Group PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. with at least 2 years experience to join (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Lrg ladies sptswr co. looking for experi- DESIGNER - CHILDRENS our team. This is a fast paced and crea- enced Operations Mgr to coordinate www.resumesforfashion.com Bra Molder $29-35K. Min 6 mos to tive environment and candidates must Seeking energetic indiv. for new- 1 year exp. in molding. Midtown production receiving, allocations - inv possess the following skills: technical control - shipping. Must be organized, born through toddler license and very large co. Excel benefits. drawing, color mapping, ability to com- Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy aggressive and detailed, work in fast private label lines. Minimum 5 municate with overseas factories, cre- pace environment for a growing co. yrs. exp. Illustrator a must. ate specification sheets for product, Work in NJ & NYC. Send resume w/ BUYER - Assistant and bead manipulation. sal req to: 212-391-5268 GRAPHIC ARTIST Ladies’ Specialty Chain in Secaucus, NJ. Please fax resume with salary Successful candidate must possess excel- requirements to 212-725-6981 Patternmaker $60-$70K. Current exp. Seeking indiv. to create innovative lent organizational skills, and be detail DESIGNER in womens tops & bottoms, wovens & 1407 BROADWAY art from concept to final art for oriented & computer literate. Please Fax knits. Prouction patterns mostly. Mid- SHOWROOMS/OFFICES branded and license lines. Profi- resumes to Gina at: 201-866-0387 Kay Unger New York town co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy TREBOR MGMT Fabulous Design Opportunities Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 cient in MAC Photoshop Patternmaker ASSOC. DESIGNER /Illustrator. BUYER Pleae check out: www.kayunger.com Dr. Jay’s The top premium retailer for First Patternmaker DREAM WORK SPACES High-end women’s fashion DESIGNERS (3) $75-$150K Designer, photographer, advertising. design company seeking Fax resume to Eli: Urban Sportswear is seeking a profes- Women’s Sportswear Co. seeks exp’d. indi- 2 fabulous Chelsea lofts. 4,000 & 3,200 sional head buyer to lead the (1) Missy Sweaters, Better Market vidual to work w/Designer on 1st Patterns. sf. Call Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. detail oriented, highly or- 212-967-9328. Email children’s division. Must have strong (2) Jr Sweaters & (3) Jr Cut & Sew Knits Positive attitude, team player, excellent 212-594-1414 Ext 251 ganized individual with a [email protected] knowledge of today’s urban wear and Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 communication skills. Fax resume & MUST HAVE AT LEAST 5 YEARS salary req. to Melissa: 212-840-9266 classic, modern design sen- buying experience in children’s appa- For Space in Garment Center sibility to join high-end DESIGNER Helmsley-Spear, Inc. rel. Must be well organized and ready Seeking designer for men’s/women’s PATTERNMAKER women’s specialty brand. to work in a fast paced environment. headwear, cold weather, handbags & back- 212-880-0414 VP GENERAL Enormous responsibility and great Wanted for Jr./large-size knit company Responsibilities include cre- packs. Min 2-5 years exp. Good knowledge to work out of 1407 Broadway in NYC. Showroom / Office / Retail MERCHANDISE MANAGER opportunity. of tech, and piece goods. Strong Illustrator ating presentation boards, Please email resume to: Must be able to handle fit samples for We find you space-best deal-no fee skills a must. Email res & sal req to: major retailers. Candidate must have 5 sketching, preparing Tech 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks an exp’d [email protected] [email protected] Sublet 525 7th/ready Retail Men’s Divisional or General years experience in patternmaking. Garment Center Real Estate Packs, and fabric and trim Salary commensurate with experience. Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Merchandise Mgr for key account Designer to $100K. Current exp in mens research. Excellent commu- Buyer’s Assistant denim bottoms. Must have visited denim Please fax resume to Alan: nication and follow-up skills, management. Must be passionate Entry-level position at fast growing mills + washing facilities. Must hang w/Po- 212-575-0068 Showrooms & Lofts and ability to handle multiple about the Retail Market and have retail co., Princeton, NJ area. Good ver- lo, DKNY, Guess, Paper, True Religion, Diesel, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS long standing relationships and bal and math skills, Word and Excel. Lucky, Mavi, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy PDS PATTERNMAKERS tasks is required. Accuracy a must. Co. benefits and in- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail contacts. Relocation not required. Designer to $100K. Current exp. in •DESIGNER Sportswear-Lectra $100K ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 centives. E-mail: [email protected] •JACKETS & SUITS-Gerber $80-85K Should have 4+ years or fax Linda: 609-520-0033. private label moderate woven women’s $200K to 250K + Strong sportswear. Must hang w/ Kazu, Bonnie •BRIDAL EVE DRESS-Gerber $85-90K design related experience. Incentives. Confidentiality Assured. CAD Artist to $70K. Current exp. in and Norma, Yellowriver, J. Suzette, Ban- [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Candidate should be PC [email protected] primavision 5.2 Photoshop/Illustrator. ner Ind., FOB, Hi Fashion, CMT, Signe, systems proficient, knowledge Fax 732-280-6190 Attn: Larissa Strong in Full Fashion sweaters, jackards, burbank, etc. Exp on PC Illustrator/ prints, stripes, plaids, embroideries etc. Photoshop. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy PHILADELPHIA JOBS of Excel/Word, and have ex- Missy JR & girls. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy •Patternmaker Better Dresses $70-78K perience with Karat CAD or Account Manager to $85K Designer to $90K. Current exp. in contem- •Technical Designer $70-80K Inventory Plans, sales reports & analysis. porary cut & sewn tops. Must hang w/ •Spec Techs $40-55K PDM, and Photoshop/ Illustra- Vince, Three Dots, & Theory etc. Strong tor. Mass merchant private Janet*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 CAD/Asst Desnr [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 [email protected] knowledge of cut & sewn fabrics devel. Im- Major womenswr desn studio seeking port co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy label, Target, Wal-Mart, etc. well organized CAD/asst desnr. Needs experience is a plus. Some strong 2 yr exp in MAC Photoshp + PL SUPERVISOR Accounts Payable Illustr must. Req textile dev: print, Design/Graphic Artist travel may be required. All aspects of A/P & bank reconciliation Women’s sportswear PL seeks highly y/dye, tech sketch & board prestn. Rapidly expanding lingerie co. seeking motivated and organized individual Please fax resume to: experience for N.Y. Accessory Co. Comm skills nec, fllw-up, able to creative designers/graphic artists. Must Fax: 973-812-0581 with experience coordinating and 646-607-6448 multitask in fast-paced envirnmt. Full have ability to execute designs from supervising all aspects of import Admin Since 1967 portfolio. Fax resume to: 212-869-2838 concept to completion. CAD, Photoshop production. Detailing from interacting & Illustrator. Fax resume: 212-689-4082. with buyers; designers, to communi- W-I-N-S-T-O-N Converter Imports 75-85K cating with overseas factories. Must Well established HK based APPAREL STAFFING Coordinate Production Far East have a sense of fashion, excellent public co. w/over 25 yrs DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Raskin Executive Search Ed Kret Design/Prod’n. Coordinator knowledge of garment fit, construction history, owns factories in ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION Fax: 732-536-4770 Email:[email protected] Est’d. Domestic/Import Jt. Mfr. seeks some and quality. Salary commensurate (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 one with 1-2 years garment industry with experience. HK, China, Vietnam, Cam- exp. Sourcing, costing, and excellent Please fax resume to 201-867-4042. bodia & Jordan has immed APPAREL JOBS COO communication/follow-up skills req’d. openings in NY regional HQ: 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs NYC Agency specializing in high-end Import exp. and fluent Cantonese a plus. 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr creative services with clients world wide Fax resume to Mimi at: 212-819-0244 Prod Admin Assistant SALES PRO Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) seeks French speaking, perfectly bilingual COO. Experience in fashion industry Major sptswr importer seeks a motivated -At least 5 yrs exp in Fabric Developer to $110K person for fast paced production required. Please fax resume & salary Intimates a must. Global sourcing. Junior/Missy sptswr market Apparel Staffing, Ltd. req’s to: (212) 274-1773 department. Must be computer literate, *PRODUCTION*DESIGN* Joy*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 highly organized and detail oriented with -Cut & Sewn Bkgrd preferred *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* [email protected] strong communication skills. Garment -Must have good network See career listings @www.apparelstaffing.com COUTURE 1st - PROD’N exp. and CTL knowledge a plus. Full built w/maj dept/chain stores PATTERNMAKERS Fabric Sourcing to $75K company benefits. Room to grow! Assistant Technical •RTW Dress/Jkts/Leath $125-175K Global exp. Knits/ wovens Please fax resume to: Contract Work in East Europe GRAPHIC DESIGNER •Bridal Evening Dresses $130K Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 JM @ 212-944-2867 [email protected] QUALITY WORK @ LOWEST PRICES -Excellent fashion illustrator Designer •Private Label Dress $70K Unlimited prod’n: Dresses, Men’s/Ladies’ Import private label co. seeking detail [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Suits, Jackets, Pants, Skirts, Knitwear, and photoshop skills oriented individual w/ good organization Product Devel Mgr $100-$120K. Current & comm. skills. Responsible for comm. w/ FAMOUS DESIGNER exp, in home furnishing reqred. Kitchen + and Kids. Call or Fax Simon at: -Free hand drawing and Cutter $23-$28K. Min 3-6 mos. exp. in Seeks 1st Jacket Patternmaker Tel: 305-725-2899 / Fax: 605-654-0895 detailed flats required customers & factories to resolve tech cutting. Will be trained on short knife tables tops textiles, or bedding etc. Ability pattern related issues, technical packages, To Replace Long Established to make presentations to accounts as well as and electric knife. Samples. Call 973- Patternmaker Now Retiring. $$$$$$ -Ability to create graphics fit/ testing samples, and care lables. Our 564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy plan calandar and direct fashion trends. for knits, recolorations, and fast paced environment req. strong knowl- [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Will relo to NJ. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy presentation boards edge of woven, knit and sweater garment Design Director $150- $175K. Current exp. in jr, construction, ability to manage multiple denim required. Must hang w/ Mavi, Mudd, GRAPHIC DESIGNER Highly motivated, aggres- tasks & priorities & meet deadlines. Sal- Squeeze, etc. Supervise 4 indiv. Top branded PRODUCT DEVEL, VP $150K+ ary commensurate w/ exp. name.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Well established accessories co seeks a LEADING CANADIAN MILLS w/LOW sive & organized indv’ls req. Fax resume to: 212-563-0128 graphic artist w/ 3-5 yrs exp. Full bene- OVERSEAS, 6 DIVISIONS Minimums in Single/Double Knit Fabrics Midtown location. Excellent fits package. Excellent oppty. Mac FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 is looking to become your supplier. salary and benefits. DESIGNER platform a must. Fax res 212-302-2753 Call Biren Patel @ 1-866-6-COTTON ASSISTANT TO 5-10 yrs exp. Top co for Women’s/Jr’s or Ron Cohen @ 212-629-7700 Please fax resume to daywear/underwear for dept store busi- 212-840-0500 Attn: NC VP OF PRODUCTION ness. Excellent benefits. $85-110K. Import / Traffic Mgr PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Call Laurie: 212-947-3399 or Email: Lrg NJ ladies import co. looking for Accessory co (NYC) seeking very de- Prominent Contract Textile Co. in metro [email protected] exp’d person, knowledgeable in Cus- tailed logistics person to process and NY area seeks bright, ambitious indi- KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS toms and Imports. Must be "detailed" track orders from start to finish, work vidual to assist in all phases of Customer Send resume w/ sal req to 212-391-5268 with overseas vendors, follow-up w/ Service including mill contacts, project Designer $90-$100K. Current exp. in jr. shipping to customers. Computer exp. management, special projects & trouble- full-fashion sweaters. Trendy. Must hang Licensing Director $125-$150K. Min 5 yrs exp a must. Must have three years exp. in shooting. Requires good communication, w/ Unique, Airport, One Step Up, in licensing for a licensor to multi markets this field. PATTERN/SAMPLES analytical and negotiating skills. Must Coolwear, Weavers, etc. Photoshop/ Illus- such as apparel, accessories, and other Please fax resume to 212-967-3912 be able to work with Sales Reps, Sales trator. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy comsumer industries. Name of major woman Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Division Managers & customers. Please work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 celeb. Devel & Mangmt of licensing programs. Graphic Designer E-mail resume with salary history & req. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy to: [email protected] EOE Designer Assoc $65-$75K. Current exp. in pri- Patterns/Samples/Beading 4-16 Girls denim & knit brand vate label woven women’s casual or career PRODUCTION COORD $40-50K seeks creative and motivated sporstwear. Adapt better to bridge line to mod- Work with Agents & Factories. Duplicates Cut & Sew Associate Designer erate private label line. Strong knowledge of Marketing Director Approve Fabrics, Color & Trim. Full Service - Small Production candidate. Must have min. of woven fabrics. Preferable to hang w/ Liz [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Size 4-16 Designer wanted to work in Exp’d Marketing Director needed to 3 years exp, be proficient in Girls Sportswear Division. Great opportunity Claiborne, Jones, Kellwood, Ann Taylor, lead the Women’s & Kids Business Unit MAC, Illustrator & Photoshop. for creative, organized individual. Must Talbots, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy for a Global Headwear company located PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please forward your resume to: have exp. in the children’s market. in Western NY. 3-8 years of experience Production Mgr to $75K. Current exp. in Candidate must be exp. on adobe photo & Designer $BOE. Current excp. in newborn/ leading a product line in a women or kids embroidery or trimming co. requ’d. Pur- PRODUCTIONS [email protected] or illustrator. Excellent growth opportunity. infant equired. Knits & wovens. Must market. Please send resumes to: chasing, shipping, inventory. Knowledge All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. fax to: 212-967-2949 Please fax resume to 646-562-9650. hang w/ Little Me, Ralph Lauren, etc. [email protected] of merchandise. Supervise 6-10. Mdtwn Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Attn: Cathy Mdtwn Lg. Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy EOE import co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 23 WWW.WWD.COM Sarandon to Host Frederick’s Show Swatch Claim Dismissed Obituary By Karyn Monget Messing, Annette Bening, Pamela WASHINGTON — A claim accusing Swatch Merwyn A. Kraft, Anderson, Lucy Liu, Cindy Crawford, Group Ltd. of tax evasion has been dismissed NEW YORK — Academy Award-win- Sheryl Crow and Julianna Margulies, by the U.S. Department of Labor. Intimates Veteran ning actress Susan Sarandon will host said a Frederick’s spokeswoman. Former Swatch regional controllers the second Annual Frederick’s of Lend\ing a man’s point of view to Joseph Ede and Matthieu Phanthala filed a NEW YORK — Merwyn A. Hollywood Lingerie Art Auction & the lingerie mix will be a number of complaint with the Department of Labor last “Rusty” Kraft, a 30-year veteran Fashion Show in Los Angeles on Oct. “sexy undergarments” created by week, alleging that Swatch used global sub- of the intimate apparel industry, 20. The location is to be determined. well-known actors, including Dustin sidiaries to shift revenues to countries with died Monday of lung cancer at The live auction will take place at 9 Hoffman, Will Ferrell, Ed Harris, Jeff lower tax rates. Ede and Phanthala worked his home in Elmhurst, Ill. He p.m. with cocktails, followed by a fashion Goldblum and Michael Keaton, as well out of offices in Hong Kong and Singapore. was 67. show of Frederick’s spring 2005 collec- as team efforts by Christian Slater and In a statement responding to the charges re- Kraft held various marketing tion at 10 p.m. Beginning Oct. 13, visitors Ryan Haddon, Dermot Mulroney and leased on August 13, Swatch said the matter and management positions at can bid to own a personally designed Catherine Mulroney and Aniston and was a “pure employment dispute,” and that one The Warnaco Group, Formfit celebrity corset at fredericks.com, with Pitt, said the spokeswoman. of the men is seeking separation compensation Rogers and International Play- all proceeds going to the Rape, Abuse & Sarandon, who has designed a lim- in excess of what was stated in his contract. tex. He served as chief executive Incest National Network. ited-edition “Prayer of Heart” corset to Swatch also contended that, while the officer of Wacoal America from The star-studded soiree in 2003 fea- be sold exclusively at Frederick’s, with company takes the charges seriously, it does 1985 to 1993, where he launched tured celebrity-designed boudoir fare all proceeds going to RAINN, was on not fall under the jurisdiction of the the licensed Donna Karan by Sharon Stone, Sarah Jessica location Monday and could not be Sarbanes-Oxley act, as shares of the company Intimates collection. Before re- Parker, Courtney Cox and David reached. But Linda LoRe, president are not listed on a U.S. exchange. tiring in late 2003, he served as a Arquette, Ben Stiller, Jennifer Aniston and chief executive officer of The Labor department agreed, dismissing the financial adviser to several pri- and Brad Pitt, Ellen DeGeneres and Frederick’s, said, “Part of what’s mak- case on Monday. “We dismissed the complaint on vate clients. Goldie Hawn. Last year’s event raised ing this event go so well is the incredi- the basis that the employees involved were hired Lisa Kraft, his ex-wife, said he more than $90,000 for Exped- ble reception from the celebrities outside of the U.S., they were employed outside will be cremated and his ashes ition/Inspiration — Take a Hike, a we’ve approached and the outreach of the U.S. and the adverse action they are claim- will be scattered near Candle- charity for breast cancer research. from Susan Sarandon. Vital to the suc- ing took place against them outside of the U.S.,” wood Lake in Connecticut, where In addition to Sarandon’s lingerie cess of the event is the commitment said Al Belsky, a spokesman with the Department he formerly lived. Memorial serv- design, this year’s roster will include from our chair, and Susan has far sur- of Labor. “Therefore there is no jurisdiction for ices will be private, she said. more than 50 bras and corsets de- passed our expectations. We’re blown the Department of Labor to take up a whistle- Merwyn Kraft is survived by his signed by the likes of Julianne Moore, away at the work she’s done so far to blower complaint under Sarbanes-Oxley.” daughters, Dana and Julie, and Bette Midler, Melanie Griffith, Debra create a spectacular event.” — Kristi Ellis and Ross Tucker two brothers, William and Gary.

Tech Designer Womens woven tops $80K SHOWROOM SALES Production - Sweater SPEC TECH Tech Disgner JR. tops, bottoms $80K Tommy Hilfiger Handbags NY Junior Bottoms mfr. seeks an exp’d Pvt label sweater and c/s knit importer needed for Grading & Specing. Newborn, Tech disgner Full-fashion sweaters $ 75K salesperson with Dept. & Specialty looking to fill prod. position. Candi- Infant, &Toddler exp. a MUST. NY loc. Tech disgner Kids Wear $BOE stores to bring in new business. date must have min. of 5 yrs exp. in Fax Patti: 973-812-1731 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817 both areas. Strong written and oral communication skills are req. Individual Tommy Hilfiger Handbags and Small Leather Goods, Inc., will facilitate all phases of import prod. with our office overseas. Follow seeks a highly motivated and experienced Account Executive through on Time and Action calendars, SPEC TECHNICIAN to join their sales team. fit approvals, lab dips and daily Technical Designer IMMEDIATE OPENING! Fast paced major importer of trendy emailing. An understanding of retail Ladies wear mfr. seeks exp’d Spec Tech. Candidate must have strong account relationships, be result compliances for direct imports and junior woven tops and bottoms company. with computer & communication skills. Ability to do clear fit comments and oriented and energetic. Effective communication, organizational product testing is nec. Prior exp. on Extremely organized & detail oriented. sweater construction is mandatory. grading. Working closely in product and analytical skills required. Three years minimum experience. W. Village Shop Please fax resume, Attention Summer development process. Daily communi- Good computer Excel/Word and org. (212) 302-3872 Busy W. Village, need management / skills. Please email your resume to: cation with overseas. Must know Excel. Fax resume to: (212) 852-4868 sales pros. Min 1 yr exp in shoes / ac- [email protected] or Illustrator exp a plus. Fluent in English. cessories. Fax Alida 212-675-6360. Fax: 212-840-7742 Fax resume, Attn Alan: 212-997-9284 Sales Representative TD-BETTER WOVENS Jrs $75-85K Great Sales Opportunity! Major China factory w/ NYC showroom, TD-Kids Wovens/Knits Tops/Btms$70-85K Hong Kong Mfr. w/own factory & offices specializing in denim woven garments, TD-JEANSWEAR $70K in NYC (offering complete design & seeks salesperson with established Traffic Mgr to $55K great line of moderate ladies’ sweaters TD-SWIMWEAR/Foundation $70K Central America. Fluent Spanish. AS400 department/chain store relationships QUALITY CONTROL TD-LONG ISLAND CITY $40-50K &related sportswear) seeks a seasoned to bring in NEW business. Fax resume Ladies dress & suit manufacturer seeks Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Sales Person/Rep. to join our family. SPEC COORD/TECHS Better $37-57K [email protected] with requirement to 212-398-1922. QC to travel overseas. Minimum 10 yrs [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Must be well connected w/major Dept./ experience in garment construction, Chain Stores in U.S. & Canada. Salary/ pattern, specing & computers. Please Commission negotiable. Fax or E-mail to: SALES fax resume, attn. Jimmy (212) 704-0462 212-354-2883 / [email protected] NY based 4-6X - 7/16 girls ready to wear Warehouse Manager co. seeks aggressive, energetic salesper- Tech Designer-Sweaters NJ Location. Great opportunity for ex- son. Must have exp. with a following. Import Sweater Co seeks exp’d indiv. perienced warehouse person. Must be Please fax resume to 646-562-9650. for fits, grading & extensive overseas highly computer literate w/ knowledge Attn: Cathy Receptionist comm. Must have 3-5 yrs import sweater of ASN, EDI and allocations. Fast paced showroom needs a hard exp. Brooklyn location. Fax 212.764.1825 Fax resume Attn: Tanya 212-921-8369 working, self motivated individual Receptionist / Sales Reps looking for an opportunity for growth. INTIMATES BEDDINGS / You must possess excellent phone eti- Sr Acct Sales Manager Showroom MGR quette, data processing skills and be Wanted: for fast paced prestigious 7th SLEEPWEAR (WOVENS ONLY) Licensed by Biflex Intimates Group a avenue manufacturer Receptionist / able to operate in quick moving envi- division Kellwood Intimate Apparel ronment. Please fax resume to: showroom manager. Handle all daily Established U.S. based company Excellent oppty, with growth potential activities with sales and design teams. (212) 382-1469 or e-mail to: for a dynamic, aggressive, enthusiastic with own factories in INDIA and [email protected] Experience in fashion a plus. Room for account business manager w/ a strong promotion within one year. Salary + CHINA looking for results-oriented work ethic. Min 5 yrs exp wholesale medical benefits. Fax resume to: Rudy sales people. Exp. is a must. &/or retail background w/ strong knowl DiLieto 212-594-3999 of Major Dept Store business mgmt. •bed sets for home and institu- RECRUITER/ APPAREL INDUSTRY Private label exp a + but not necessary. PT OR FREELANCE SALES Tired of the rat race? Move to Tampa, Possess strong organizational, financial European designer showroom seeks tional use especially among hospi- Fla area. Email Sue@ justmgt.com planning, analytical, communication, person for Sales. Must have 2+ years tals & motels Account Executive presentation & follow up skills. Ability experience selling in designer showroom. •night wear/pajamas/night suits, to multi-task, prioritize, & assist as part Email resumes: [email protected] As the leader in contemporary design, we continue to grow of a team in the development / execu- ladies’ regular tops and blouses and are looking to add exceptional talent to our team. tion of key strategic plans to drive Guaranteed six figures income! volume & brand recognition. Manage Part-Time Salesperson High-end European Textile Co seeking Fax resume to 219-324-6666 or Retail Planner $BOE. Min 2 yrs exp as entire account business process. Comp P/T salesperson for NYC office w/ cross We are currently seeking an energetic, sales driven individu- proficient w/ Work, Excel, presentation E-mail: [email protected] planner required. Either retail or whole- al with 3-5 years wholesale sales experience with major over bet. two divisions: Fabric & Home sale co background OK. For midtown appa- packages, etc. Position is based in Products. Internal & External sales. rel co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy department stores. NYC Office atmosphere w/ competitive Must have sales & textile exp, be self- salary & benefits compensation. Quali- motivated, well-org. able to multi-task fied candidates please forward your w/ strong computer & comm. skills. Qualified candidates, please fax resume & salary history resume w/ salary req to 201-933-0998 or Travel throughout year req’d. Fax res w/ attn:Patricia (212) 764-6912 (EOE) [email protected] sal req 212-997-2336 Attn: Anneli Bailey. Sample Maker to $25K. Exp. in bras or womens swimsuits. Mid-town large co. Ecellent benefits. 35 hours/ week. Broad- Shipping - Key Acct. Rep way at 38th st. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Junior Division Sales Spts mfr located in Kearny, NJ (close Well est’d. & growing Import Co. seeks to NYC) seeks an experienced person motivated & aggressive Sales Person to handle major accts such as Sears, to join our great team, for its moderately Federated, and JC Penney,etc. Respon- EMMELLE priced Jr. Division. Must have well sibilities include creating pick tickets, Bergamo Seeking Dynamic SalesPro est’d. & active working relationships invoices, & EDI transactions. Computer SOURCING MGR $110-120K Better to Bridge Suit Comp., needs in- SALESPERSON w/Dept./Specialty Chains. Minimum of skills a must, as is ability to communicate Moderate Market, Knits/Wovens, Jeans, dividual for sales in specialty & dept. Madison Avenue Designer Boutique 5 years experience in Independent with sales staff. Fluency in Spanish a Washing Knldge. Trim Sourcing, Quota chains, and product development for seeks sales associate with a minimum Sales of woven sportswear & dresses plus. Salary based on ability. V.P. Merchandise Manager Duties, FOB/LDP’s, Far East, Africa. fast growing private label division. of 3 years experience. Must be highly req’d. Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: Please fax resume to: (201) 246-9029 25 yrs experience in all apparel and Must have Factory base in Rolodex. Must have @ least 5 years experience motivated and professional. Full or Part time. 631-753-0982 / [email protected] Attention: Marc accessories. Seeking same position. [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 and following. Pls fax: 212-869-5393 Please fax resume to: 212-249-1427 KUPERHAND INDUSTRIES or E-mail: [email protected] Call 864-346-6792 04. rademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 20 TERS. ® Registered Service Mark/T TERS. ® Registered AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR AMERICA’S

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