SCAASI’S STRIPTEASE/6 WHO PAYS FOR PORT SECURITY?/14 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • August 17, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Get in Shape NEW YORK — Giorgio Armani knows how to keep fit. For Armani Collezioni spring, he’s making the little shrunken jacket his own, sending out myriad playful variations on it. Here, a breezy wide-collared cotton and silk version worn with a cotton top and cotton and elastin jeans. For more on Armani Collezioni, see page 8. Storms Spare Florida Retailers, but Comps Outlook Weakens By Georgia Lee and Katherine Bowers stores on Sunday and Monday as Southeastern U.S. last week, are Y PORTIA PETERS Y PORTIA ATLANTA — This time, the weather Floridians found respite in shopping expected to depress August same- really is having an impact. malls. Still, Bonnie and Charley, the store sales by up to 2 percent at Retailers generally escaped any respective tropical storm and Federated Department Stores and major physical damage from the hurricane that dealt a deadly blow the Neiman Marcus Group, as well weekend storms and reported busy to parts of Florida and the See Storm, Page 18 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; HAIR AND MAKEUP B DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 17, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY Eskenasi to Exit Saks Inc. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles By David Moin Eskenasi could not be reached to learn about GENERAL her plans. The impact of Hurricane Charley and Tropical Storm Bonnie on the NEW YORK — Saks Inc.’s aggressive private label “I’m sure she can write her own ticket wher- 1 Southeast is expected to hurt August sales at Federated and Neiman’s. buildup is about to hit a roadblock. According to ever she wants to go,” said Robert Kerson, an ex- With her lawyer by her side thanks to pending perjury charges, rapper Lil’ sources, Peggy Eskenasi, senior vice president in ecutive search consultant. “Private label grew Kim unveiled her fine watch collection, with jewelry and apparel to come. charge of private brands for the department significantly under her watch at Saks Inc., and 2 stores, will announce her departure this week. it’s becoming a bigger piece of every retailer’s EYE: NYU student Anna Anisimova hosted a benefit in Southampton for the She’s been in a critical role, considering Saks business. It’s where the margins are, and is part 4 school’s Mental Illness Prevention Center...A Pucci party in L.A. Inc. in just a few years has lifted its private label of what distinguishes them from the competi- RTW: Just like every dress Arnold Scaasi ever made, his latest book volume to 14 to 15 percent of its total volume, tion. Her design and product development skills “Women I Have Dressed (And Undressed),” is designed to flatter. from the mid-single-digit level. Ultimately, the are not easily replaced.” 6 Saks Inc. department store group hopes to catch The Saks Inc.department store group in- FASHION: In his Giorgio Armani Collezioni spring lineup, the designer up to key competitors, such as Federated cludes Parisian, Proffitt’s, McRae’s, Younkers, 8 explores ways to work a fitted jacket, along with dresses, jeans and pants. Department Stores Inc., where private label Herberger’s, Carson Pirie Scott, Bergner’s, IN TRANSIT: The end of the quota system is expected to bring a boom in sales are closer to 20 percent of total volume. Boston Store and 28 mall-based Club Libby Lu Chinese exports and the nation’s ports are investing to build capacity. Among the key women’s private labels at Saks specialty stores. 9 Inc. are Relativity, Pursuits and Studio Works. Saks Inc. also operates Saks Fifth Avenue, Industry and government agree that U.S. ports are vulnerable to terrorist The company has also been penning exclusive where private label represents 4 to 5 percent of 14 attacks, and are grappling with how to improve and fund inspections. distribution agreements with such brands as the volume, though officials have indicated that TEXTILES: Fabrics with properties ranging from moisture management to Laura Ashley, Jane Seymour and Ruff Hewn it represents a substantial opportunity for muscle compression are vying for share of the performance market. over the last few years. growth there too. 16 Classified Advertisements ..................................................................22-23 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Lil’ Kim Times Launch Well VOLUME 188, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 By Emily Holt Lil’ Kim ers of necklaces, Jones strayed West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; from her rehearsed speech and Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior NEW YORK — Martha Stewart's turned positively giddy when Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- empire may have suffered from asked about the baubles. “This is President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at her run-in with the law, but it my favorite part,” she said. additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. seems Lil’ Kim’s is about to “These watches are to die for.” POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. grow in spite of her pending She proudly displayed the model FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR perjury trial. on her wrist for reporters and DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new With her lawyer by her side, television news cameras and subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production the flamboyant rapper unveiled said, “If you don’t like it, tell me correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, her new collection of fine watch- and I’ll try to make one especial- please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully es, Royalty by Lil’ Kim, at a press ly for you. But if you really hate screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive conference here Monday. She it, well, too bad.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. also revealed plans for fine jew- But when the press confer- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND elry and apparel collections to ence returned to other aspects of TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART be launched under the Royalty her notoriety, including her up- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED label within a year. coming February court date, TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE The watches are manufac- Jones’ demeanor underwent a ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. tured by Jacob & Co., which is Jekyll-and-Hyde-like shift. She owned by Jacob Arabo (aka gravely denied charges of lying to Jacob the Jeweler). As one would a federal grand jury investigating expect from the man to whom TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY a 2001 shooting that allegedly in- In Brief Sean “P. Diddy” Combs turns for from $1,800 to $3,500. Lil’ Kim volved members of her entourage diamonds, and the woman re- (aka Kimberly Jones) said more outside a radio station here and membered most for her lilac se- than 5,000 watches have been or- left one man wounded. She also ● BACK IN FASHION: Joie Rucker, who left her contemporary quined breast pasties at the 1999 dered for fall, and she’s already stands by her theory that the case namesake label last month, is taking a break, but not for long. MTV Video Music Awards, the placed them on the wrists of such “is part of the government’s con- The designer behind Los Angeles-based Joie plans to return to seven-style line has plenty of famous friends as Tyra Banks, tinued indictment against the the fashion trenches in October to debut a new fall line in flash.