ISSN 1854-0805 (business culture environment politics sports) 04 April 09

Slovenia Ready to Head the Council of Europe First five years in the European Union contents

Veronika Stabej Slovenia ready for new milestones

This issue of Sinfo is dedicated to Europe: to the Presidency of the Council of Europe and the fifth anniversary of Slovenia joining the EU. In both cases, these are important events for our country. With the experience gained since independence, during its Presidency of the OSCE in 2005, and during its Presidency of the EU in 2008, this will be Slovenia’s third presidency of a major international organisation. In the first five years of its membership of the European Union, Slovenia has continued to grow in international prestige and recognisability, and a number of significant milestones have contributed to make us feel truly at home in the EU.

During its Presidency of the Council of Europe, Slovenia will devote particular attention to the rights of minorities and Roma. We will strive to ensure that the legally regulated position of the Roma ethnic community continues to improve. April was notable 25 Art & Culture 36-38 Sports for, among other things, the Month of Roma Culture, which filled Roma culture month – Romano Chon in Roma - Fairways on the sunny side of the Alps the premises of some of Slovenia’s principal cultural institutions enraptured Slovenia with its exuberance and openness, and attracted enthusiastic visitors to numerous events. 39-41 People 29-31 Our Excellence 32-35 Slovenian delights Kamila Volčanšek and Kostja Gatnik Spinalis – chairs to bring back your health The Region beyond (and around) the Mura River In this issue we also look at foreign property owners in Slovenia. Since Slovenia joined the EU, 3,060 properties have been bought by foreigners. Estate agents and others are fond of saying that foreigners consider Slovenia a very beautiful country, that it has an incredible natural diversity despite its small size, and above all that the Slovenes are very friendly people.

Golfers from all over the world are full of praise for the ‘greens on the sunny side of the Alps’, in other words Slovenia’s golf courses. With new courses appearing all the time, Slovenia is becoming an increasingly interesting destination for this form of tourism.

And since the way to the heart is through the stomach (as the saying goes), we have not forgotten about good food. This time we have gone to Prekmurje, famous for its utterly distinctive and unusual cuisine. As well as the classic gibanica (layer cake) and bograč (a kind of goulash), we present a variety of other specialities from Prekmurje. And invite you to come and sample them with us.

Sinfo – Slovenian information Editorial: Government Commnunication Office, Director: Veronika Stabej, Gregorčičeva 25, 1000 Ljubljana, Government Communication Office:www.slovenia.si tel. +386 (0) 1 478 2630, fax + 386 (0) 1 251 2312, www.ukom.gov.si Government Communication Office:www.ukom.gov.si Editor-in-Chief: Vesna Žarkovič, [email protected] Government Institutions: www.gov.si Editorial Board: Albert Kos, Mateja Malnar Štembal, Valerija Mencej, Jože Osterman, Polona Prešeren, Slovenian Tourist Board: www.slovenia.info Andreja Šonc Simčič, Branko Vidrih Slovenian Chamber of Commerce and Industry: www.gzs.si Photo Editor: Maja Slavec Slovenian Chamber of Craft: www.ozs.si Production: Nuit d.o.o., Translation: PSD d.o.o., Printed by: Mond Grafika Public Agency of the RS for Entrepreneurship and Foreign Investments: www.japti.si Number of copies: 4600 Ljubljana Stock Exchange: www.ljse.si Available also at: www.ukom.gov.si/eng/slovenia/publication/sinfo Statistical Office of the Republic of Slovenia:www.stat.si Cover photo: © European Communities, 1995-2009 State Portal of the Republic of Slovenia: http://e-uprava.gov.si m o n t h l y r e v i e w

Andrej Savelli Still no progress in the Slovenia-Croatia dispute Bobo photo: Katarina Kresal On 30 March, Slovenia responded to the latest proposal survives interpellation of the European Commissioner for Enlargement, Olli Rehn, regarding the Slovenia-Croatia border dispute. The government presents a At the beginning of April, members of parliament rejected Since Croatia did not submit its proposal within the the interpellation of the work of the Minister of the Interior, agreed time limit, the meeting announced for 1 April third package of measures Katarina Kresal, submitted by SDS Party members due to between Commissioner Rehn and the Foreign Ministers the supposed inadequate settlement of the issue of so-called of Slovenia and Croatia, Samuel Žbogar and Gordan against the crisis to social erased persons. Thirty-one MPs voted in favour of the Jandroković, respectively, was postponed indefinitely. partners interpellation, and forty-eight against. During the debate, Therefore, Commissioner Rehn met the EU Trio the Minister rejected the objections raised by the authors Presidency of France, Czech Republic and Sweden, On 10 April, the social partners in the Social and of the interpellation. Commenting on SDS’s intention to which called on Slovenia and Croatia to cooperate Economic Council were informed of proposed new establish a Parliamentary Commission of Inquiry and to use constructively in order to achieve results prior to the government measures to mitigate the consequences of all legal remedies, she explained that she expected them to negotiating conference with Croatia, announced for 24 the crisis. These are proposals relating to employment do so. She added that “the project of issuing supplementary April. Upon joining NATO, the Croatian Prime Minister, and social policy, as well as economic development decisions will be completed; we will also bring into force Ivo Sanader, expressed his opinion that this would help Prime minister Pahor at the and the public sector. The proposed new measures th laws regulating other erased persons, and this project will lift the Slovenian veto on Croatian negotiations with the were presented at an Economic and Social Council summit marking the 60 be completed, whether SDS likes it or not.” Referring to EU. Sanader also announced that at the meeting with his session by the Minister of Development and European the announcement of the SDS president, Janez Janša, that Slovenian counterpart, Borut Pahor, which should take Affairs, Mitja Gaspari, together with the Minister of anniversary of nato and the eu- each decision issued will be an opportunity to submit a new place on 24 April, he would demand Slovenia lift the the Economy and the Minister of Labour, Family usa summit interpellation, Kresal was of the opinion that she would veto on Croatian negotiations with the EU. Meanwhile, and Social Affairs, Matej Lahovnik and Ivan Svetlik. participate in others. “If not in this area, they will make the former Finnish president and Nobel Peace Prize Social partners have fourteen days to consider them, On 3 and 4 April, the Prime Minister, Borut Pahor, attended the something else up, since we who are taking the legal path, winner, Martti Ahtisaari, who has been proposed to and prior to that, they will determine the priority of jubilee NATO summit in Baden-Baden and Strasbourg. Mr Pahor was apparently represent a thorn in the flesh of SDS,” explained lead the mediation of the border issue between Slovenia the measures. The Government has proposed both accompanied by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Samuel Žbogar, and the the Minister. As she recalled, it was she who said several times and Croatia, said that the dispute could be resolved by short-term and structural measures. Among the first Minister of Defence, Ljubica Jelušič. As part of his first tour of Europe, that it would have been correct for politicians to give the arbitration; at the same time, he hinted that he would is the introduction of subsidies paid to employers for the new President of the USA, Barack Obama, was also attending the erased persons “moral acknowledgement of all the injustices probably not accept the mediating job, as these were legal employees directed to “wait for work”. According summit. The heads of twenty-eight NATO Members began their second they had suffered.” The form of such acknowledgement or issues and he is not a lawyer. On 9 April, after a cabinet to the proposal, instead of dismissing employees, day of the meeting by walking across the bridge over the Rhine from apology should be suggested by politicians, she said. meeting, Minister Žbogar said that the Government employers could direct them to wait for work for up Kehl to Strasbourg, thereby symbolically confirming the spirit of the had again discussed the report on Commissioner Rehn’s to nine months, which the trade unions say could be alliance. At the summit, Croatia and Albania joined the organisation, initiative, but resolutions would not be adopted until At the beginning of April, members of parliament rejected the extended to a year. The Government also proposes and the new Secretary General, the Danish Prime Minister Anders Fogh after discussions with members of the Parliamentary interpellation of the work of the Minister of the Interior, Katarina Kresal, changing the established subsidies for working time Rasmussen, was appointed. Foreign Policy Committee. Mr Žbogar recalled that the submitted by SDS Party members due to the supposed inadequate reductions, so that only companies reducing working The following day, Prime Minister Pahor and Minister Žbogar attended settlement of the issue of so-called erased persons. Croatian Government has not submitted its comments; time to 36 hours - and not also to 32 hours - would an informal EU-USA summit in Prague. In addition to saving the global therefore, he estimated that Slovenia could take some be entitled to receive subsidies. After meeting union economy from the worst crisis after the World War II and new strategies time to discuss the Rehn initiative. Prime Minister Pahor photo: STA photo: representatives, Prime Minister Borut Pahor assured for Afghanistan, the main issues were climate change and energy security. indirectly responded to the newly exacerbated positions that the Government would not propose a third After the meeting, Prime Minister Pahor said that the EU-USA summit of the government in Zagreb regarding border issue, and package of measures until making them acceptable to had fulfilled the hopes and high expectations, since both parties showed considered that we should not be alarmed by the “grand social partners. a desire to cooperate and overcome the challenges confronting them rhetoric of the Croatian party”. It is important to “act together, in a “coordinated, persistent and courageous manner”. Due to without exacerbating the matter”. In closed session on the commitment of all participants in trying to use the period of crisis to 14 April, the Parliamentary Foreign Policy Committee The social partners in the Social and Economic Council were invest in low-carbon and renewable energy infrastructure, Prime Minister discussed Commissioner Rehn’s proposal, expanded the informed of proposed new government measures to mitigate Pahor also estimates that expectations regarding the fight against climate Government’s basic positions and added some suggestions the consequences of the crisis. change expressed at the EU summit, together with the new president as to how positive the answer to the Rehn initiative of the USA, seem more probable than those expressed a few years ago. should be. The Slovenian media also revealed that photo: STA photo: Furthermore, he said that Slovenia is also undertaking measures in this Rehn’s proposal was for ad hoc arbitration including five direction – the Government is preparing a memorandum which will arbitrators. The European Commission should propose soon be submitted to the National Assembly. the leader, who should in turn appoint two assistants; Whilst attending the Forum of the Alliance of Civilisations session, Ljubljana and Zagreb should appoint one member each. which took place in Istanbul on 7 and 8 April, the President of the A new tripartite meeting between Commissioner Rehn Republic, Danilo Türk, also met the American President, Barack Obama. and the Slovenian and Croatian Ministers of Foreign With his American colleague, Türk primarily discussed the development Affairs could be held around 20 April. of the Transatlantic Partnership.

  Council of Europe Damjan Bergant, Head of the Project Group for Holding the Presidency of the Council of Europe, Slovenia 2009 the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Slovenia Council of Europe, photo: STA The Presidency of the Committee of Min- isters of the Council of Europe (the Coun- cil of Europe) is organized alphabetically and lasts six months. It is the first time that Slovenia will hold the Presidency of such an organization. It is the third in a sequence of Presidencies of ‘large’ interna- tional organizations. Experience obtained during the period of independence and presiding over the Organization for Secu- rity and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE) in the year 2005 - and let us not forget the Slovenian EU Presidency of 2008 - will prove useful here. It is the positive experi- ence obtained in all the previous Presiden- cies that fill us with optimism, including the Presidencies of smaller initiatives and international organizations (such as the Central European Initiative, Human Se- curity Network), and membership of the United Nations Security Council. That is, European Court of Human Rights Building in Strasbourg, photo: STA we can be assured that Slovenia, regardless of its limited resources, both human and Slovenia Ready to Head financial, in comparison to other Member been active for decades in the The priorities of Slovenia’s Presidency of States, will show that it can actively and so-called expert committees of the Council of Europe are based on the priorities of the last summit of the Coun- successfully lead an organization and its the Council of Europe. These membership, contributing to the develop- cil of Europe in Warsaw in 2005. Slovenia the Council of Europe experts are also active in im- ment of democracy, the rule of law and outlined its own proposals based on its plementing individual partial European Parliament, photo: STA human rights in the international com- other priorities. munity. And at the same time, promote agreements and conventions of itself in the world. the Council of Europe. Slove- In this context, Slovenia will nian experts are known and focus on the rule of law, Preparations for holding the Presidency of appreciated in Strasbourg for democracy and respect for the Council of Europe started a year ago - their work on minority rights, that is, at the time of our EU Presidency. fundamental human rights, bioethics, disabled persons, including the rights of chil- fighting organized crime and Although the focus was on dren, minorities and the Roma corruption, and in the fields of very important activities in the community. In addition to social charters, the media, etc.. framework of the EU Presi- this, Slovenia will address the fight against terrorism, orga- dency, the Ministry for Foreign The inter-ministerial working group start- Affairs established a so-called ed work last May, and outlined the first nized crime and corruption, inter-ministerial working proposals for Slovenia’s EU priorities at and bioethics, intercultural group for the Presidency of the time of the Presidency of the Coun- dialogue and cooperation with the Council of Europe. This cil of Europe. As the coordinator of the other international organiza- Presidency and group, the Ministry of tions (in particular, the Euro- includes almost all government Foreign Affairs submitted proposals to the sectors and offices. It must be Secretariat of the Council of Europe. In pean Union). stressed that the Council of turn, they issued proposals and remarks Europe is concerned not only regarding the current work of the Council Of course, Slovenia intends to From 12th May to 18th November the Republic of Slovenia will preside over the with foreign affairs, but also of Europe. A priority proposal was out- dedicate considerable atten- Committee of Ministers of the Council of Europe. The Council of Europe is the with other sectors. It should lined in the next round of coordination tion to current matters in the oldest pan-European organization, and includes forty-seven Member States. within the group and the Secretariat. They be stressed that these sectors, framework of the Council of Upon joining the organization, states vow to respect fundamental human rights were confirmed by the Government of the more precisely, their experts Europe. The question of re- and freedoms, establish democracy and the rule of law. Republic of Slovenia in the beginning of from individual fields, have February 2009. forming the European Human

  Council of Europe Slovenia 2009

Rights Court is very urgent. the opening of the so-called and this was granted on 14th May 1993. tions locally. On the other hand, it offered For the time being, the reform Information Point in Minsk. In its opinion on the membership of Slo- constructive help in improving the state venia, the Parliamentary Assembly of the of human rights and freedoms, democracy has stopped, since the Russian All this can bring Belarus clos- Council of Europe did not specify any par- and the rule of law in all other Member Federation has not ratified the er to the Council of Europe. If ticular conditions to be met upon joining States of the Council of Europe. Four per- convention, that is, Protocol things develop in this direc- the organization. In the meantime, Slove- manent representatives, who represented 14 to the European Convention tion, Slovenia will see that nia affirmed its status as a successful Mem- Slovenia in Strasbourg, greatly contributed on Human Rights. This would further steps are undertaken ber State, with a high degree of respect for to this. They are the late ambassador An- make work easier for the to facilitate Belarus’ member- human and minority rights, democratic drej Novak, who can take most credit for institutions and the rule of law. Slovenia joining the Council of Europe. court. At present, both pro- ship of the organization. Then there is former ambassador Darja fessional and political debates On 11th May 2007, Montenegro was the Lavtižar–Bebler, who is still active in the related to the issue are going In short, there is a lot of work and activity last country to become a member of the Council. She leads the Slovenian parlia- on at Strasbourg. A possibility ahead of Slovenia during the Presidency of Council of Europe. Meanwhile, Belarus mentary delegation in the Parliamentary the Council of Europe. The project group of moving from the deadlock still awaits membership. On the other Assembly of the Council of Europe. The for holding the Presidency of the Council hand, Kosovo has not requested member- ambassador Magdalena Tovornik, who appeared at the meeting of the of Europe, which I lead, will coordinate th ship yet. had and still retains a connection with the Committee of Ministers on 12 both work at the Ministry for Foreign Council. And lastly, let us not forget an- May in Madrid. That is, imme- Affairs and work on a broader scale. Fur- From 1993, when Slovenia started its ac- other former ambassador, Meta Bole, the diately before the acceptance thermore, its primary role will be to as- tivities in the Council of Europe, it has current permanent representative of Slo- sist the foreign minister Samuel Žbogar, of Slovenia’s Presidency. been active in all the relevant fields. Dur- venia at the Council of Europe. This year who will preside over the Committee of ing regular work, it dealt with improving she is chairing the Committee of Deputy the Ministers of the Council of Europe, Let us not forget the regional matters with the state of the Council of Europe opera- Ministers in Strasbourg. in his activities. And there will be many. photo: STA which the organization deals. Here, Slove- This will only further burden the minister. nia intends to dedicate special attention to That is why we will try as hard as we can the countries of South-eastern Europe and to make his work and tasks in the Council the Caucasus, in particular. It is the coun- of Europe easier. tries of the South-eastern Europe that are subject to very strict monitoring of the Putting everything else aside, this is yet state of human rights. Based on this, they another experience we will acquire in are among the priorities of the Council of diplomacy. I am sure that, together with Europe. Regarding the southern Caucasus, our team in Strasbourg and the one in the issue of Georgia remains open. After Ljubljana, we will successfully carry out last year’s events in August, the Council this Presidency. That is, the third in a row. of Europe started to participate actively photo: STA photo: Slovenia’s profile in the international com- in resolving the situation, especially in munity will only be enhanced, this time in the field of human rights. Thomas Ham- the field of human rights and fundamen- marberg, the Commissioner for Human photo: STA photo: tal freedoms. Rights of the Council of Europe is active in this field, and Slovenia encourages his activity. The Council of Europe deals with the most significant is- It appears that Belarus will sues of European society, be one of Slovenia’s concerns except issues related to na- during its Presidency. Indi- tional defence. Its programme vidual changes in the relation- includes human and minority ship between Belarus and the rights, media, legal coopera- Council of Europe are becom- tion, social issues, health ser- ing more and more evident, vice, environment, education, which shows that the status culture, sports, youth, local of Belarus as a guest in the and regional self-government, Parliamentary Assembly of cross-border cooperation, etc. the Council of Europe will be renewed. And let us not forget Slovenia requested full membership of the Council of Europe on 29th January, 1992,

  Council of Europe Slovenia 2009 Photo: © European Communities, 1995-2009

Nataša Bušljeta In January 2007, cies in the public sector. By holding the urgent or necessary treatment during er Lisbon Treaty). A further qualitative Slovenia adopted the EU Council Presidency, we have gained a temporary stay in another Member shift in relations between the nations of knowledge and experience, and estab- State, etc. Apart from legal benefits, EU Igor Kovač, Europe is required. The beginning of FIRST FIVE euro and became the lished important contacts that may now membership also has financial benefits. this shift was actually the emergence of th President of YEARS IN THE 13 member of the euro help us in implementing new projects. By drawing on EU funds, we can im- the EU or ECSC, respectively. On the area. prove or build our transport infrastruc- Slovenian basis of a different paradigm, European EUROPEAN The advantages of the adoption of the In the five years ture, improve the supply of clean water countries began to regulate their mutual euro are particularly evident today, since EU accession, and energy, build purification plants relations. Today, we can unfortunately when Slovenia is dealing with the finan- and other infrastructure facilities, ben- Pan-European see that this noble idea is getting lost in UNION cial and economic crisis, as this makes it Slovenia has achieved efit from education and training, as well European bureaucracy, technocracy and greater visibility in Youth: The first day of May 2004 will go down less vulnerable to severe shocks. as encourage entrepreneurship, tourism the so-called ‘spill-over’ approach. The as an important milestone in the history the international and measures promoting rural develop- For Slovenia, 9 May 2004 is a key date Pan-European idea represents this new of the European Union and Slovenia. community and secured ment. in its history. Prior to the implementa- paradigm, and therefore the role and The European Union’s fifth and larg- involvement in decision- tion of the referendum on Slovenia’s mission of the Slovenian Pan-European est ever enlargement took place, with making processes and in accession to the EU, on 7 May 2004, Movement did not end with Slovenia’s accession to the EU, but began again in 10 new countries, including Slovenia, foreign policy matters the Slovenian Pan-European Movement issued a declaration entitled ‘Histori- a new way. joining. The first five years of Slovenia’s going beyond the limits membership of the European Union cal Opportunity’. All the major public have been marked by many different of a state of only 2 opinion makers of that time signed it. In Where is Slovenia within the EU? Al- achievements and new experiences. million people. the declaration, we noted that by acced- though we have established that Slo- In five years of EU membership, Slove- ing to the EU, Slovenia was returning venia gained a great deal by joining Slovenia has gained nia has undoubtedly demonstrated that, to the European cultural and political the EU, and has proved to be excellent within it, we can criticise the search for invaluable experience with its knowledge and commitment, circles which had enabled us to become and by acting in a responsible manner, it a nation. The exclusion of Slovenia from true Slovenian positions within the or- and international is capable of carrying through the most European integration would mean in- ganisation and related to it. This was visibility. demanding tasks. ternational isolation, endangering not also demonstrated during the Slove- By joining the European Union, Slo- only our statehood, but also our nation- nian EU Council Presidency. Here, we venia achieved one of its key strategic What benefits has EU al survival. proved to be excellent organisers and goals. Preparations for membership membership brought to citizens? promoters of Slovenia. However, not marked the beginning of a period of The impact of membership of the Eu- Accession to the EU enabled the Slove- enough was done to promote and im- increased economic development and In December 2007, ropean Union on the lives of Slovenians nian economy and companies to access plement Slovenian positions. Until the stability. EU membership brought new Slovenia joined the is likely to be greater than it appears a large market; students and teachers EU enters into – to borrow Kant’s idea major challenges. Major projects in- Schengen area; at first sight, as EU law provides rules were provided with the free movement - a period of eternal peace, which can cluded the adoption of the euro, joining it first lifted internal border controls at applying to a variety of areas that are New challenges and trials ahead of knowledge, and Slovenia was allowed also be called the period of Pan-Euro- the Schengen area and holding the EU internal land and sea borders and then, directly relevant to our everyday lives. There are already new challenges fac- to co-decide the policies of one of the pean idea realisation, an active, innova- Council Presidency. In June 2004, Slo- in March 2008, also at air borders. Bor- In addition to enjoying the advantages ing the European Union and Slovenia, main global actors - the EU. tive and highly independent Slovenian venia for the first time elected seven Slo- ders within the Schengen area can now of the Schengen arrangement and the requiring an active approach and inno- foreign policy remains our best defence venian representatives to the European be crossed freely, without undergoing adoption of the euro, Slovenes, as EU vative solutions: the institutional dead- All these successes should not blur our against political and economic pressure Parliament. In November of the same border checks or passport control. citizens, have the right to elect represen- lock, climate change, energy security, critical view of the EU, which includes from the larger countries. year, the first European Commissioner tatives and be elected to the European further enlargement of the European Slovenia. The EU still faces a great di- from Slovenia, responsible for science In the first half of 2008, Parliament. In June this year, we will Union, and recently also the deepening lemma. The main task of the EU is to The Slovenian Pan-European Move- and research, was sworn in. be electing Slovenian representatives to financial and economic crisis. provide efficiency and at the same time ment is convinced that there will be Slovenia held the EU the European Parliament for the second ensure the equality of all European na- further successes for Slovenia within the Negotiation on the EU Council Presidency – time. EU law entitles us to shop in other After five years of EU membership, tions. This issue is qualitative, and it EU, and thereby the EU project, based financial framework it was the first of the new Member States EU Member States without having to Slovenia is well aware that, thanks to cannot be resolved by treaty alone (such on the realisation of the Pan-European for the period 2007– to do so and the first Slavic country to worry about paying customs duty or ad- membership, it can deal more effec- as the Constitutional Treaty or the new- idea. be at the helm of the European Union. ditional VAT when returning home. EU 2013 was one of the tively with challenges posed, since in- In terms of content and organisation, law ensures high standards of product tegration makes countries stronger, but first major tasks for this was probably Slovenia’s most de- safety and prohibits misleading advertis- only if they respect common rules and Slovenia as an EU manding task since independence. Slo- ing and unfair selling practices. It also take their share of responsibility. And we Member State. venia achieved the priorities it had set guarantees cheaper mobile calls abroad, are also aware that membership is im- From the national viewpoint, the nego- for itself, and participated in the draft- provides a number of opportunities for portant for the citizens of Slovenia, who tiations can be assessed as very successful, ing and adoption of a number of leg- education, work and employment seek- have now the right and opportunity to since Slovenia succeeded in maintaining islative documents and other decisions ing, as well as the possibility of retiring take part in shaping the future develop- its budgetary position as a net recipient having a direct impact on citizens’ daily in another Member State, entitlement ment of the country and the European of EU funds until at least 2013. lives, companies’ operations and poli- to health services when they relate to Union as a whole.

10 11 INTERVIEW Mrs Brinar, you have been part of the results, it is always demanding, and you try European story since the very begin- to capture it with all the modifications; then, ning, before the negotiations started. you are already half-way to the next reform. What are you memories? All this is happening so rapidly that there is Right now, I only remember the event that no time to pause, or for a final evaluation of happened at the end of the 1980s, when we what has been achieved, let alone to iden- were discussing an agreement between Yu- tify the problems. It feels like rushing from goslavia and the EU. I was at the beginning one document to another, without realising of my academic career, and I was explain- where we actually stand. I have the feeling ing my vision of it. At the time, I was re- of running without a compass in different proached for seeing those things in an overly directions. academic manner and for taking integration in an overly theoretical manner - in the sense It sounds as if the EU is not stable. that I was teaching. In terms of integration, it has always been a moving target. When we negotiated, it Are you still doing that? was always about a certain issue, and we did I hope not in a negative sense. not know the final decision. Therefore, they had to be redefined, which is nothing un- Five years of EU membership are usual for an integration process. It is just a behind us. How do you assess this process. The feature of a process is modifi- period? cation. The EU was never a final construct, Those five years passed very quickly. Gener- constituted by some basic acts, with all the ally, I can say that all the twenty-five years parameters known. The system and relations that I have been engaged in the accession of between the main institutions of this system Slovenia to the EU passed so quickly, that I are known, but it is a very complex area am not even aware that half of my academic of constant change. The nature of matters career has passed. I experience it like this, as is such that we always tend towards a bal- something is constantly going on. Not only ance, but only a temporary one. Therefore, something - a lot is going on. All this mul- the EU always seeks a balance between in- titude of events has to be followed - both stitutions, between Member States, between those happening within the EU and in Slo- the Union and third countries. This should venia. Every year has been different from all also be understood in the light of changing the others; so my subject of research changes the global world. A modus vivendi between every year. Such dynamics keep you in a the Member States and their whims - called constant state of tension. national interests - should always be sought, Vesna Žarkovič, and between the constantly changing leaders What were the subjects you studied of European institutions. photo: Mateja Jordovič Potočnik the most? The EU is constantly changing, both in- So, there is no peace in studying the wardly and outwardly, in its responses to the EU? international environment. Before and after No, there is not, and I rather like it. The re- Slovenia’s independence, we were included search does not allow you to stand still, or to some extent in discussions about how boredom with one’s own subject. On the Irena Brinar Yugoslavia should continue its co-operation other hand, this can become tiring, espe- Head of the Office of International Cooperation with what was then the European Economic cially if it persists for a longer period. We sci- Community. After independence, European entists have our fields of specialisation, but at the Faculty of Social Science, affairs simply dragged us in; between 1991 in the European story, you need to follow and 2009, many new things happened many fields. University of Ljubljana: which have significantly affected the inclu- sion of Slovenia: from the initial approaches, Where are we now, after five years? a series of agreements, negotiations, acces- I would compare our membership with a sion, European elections, monetary union, game on ice. The surface is shiny. We can The European structure should Schengen, to the Presidency…Now, we are be reasonably satisfied with this surface. And already at the fifth anniversary. In the last 20 also because, in five years of EU member- be filled with knowledge and years, many historical turning points in the ship, Slovenia has not taken a break, not EU shaped its internal constitution. Follow- even a short one. Slovenia became a member ing all this, from the preparations, the course in a year and a half, after tiring accession ne- concern for the people of events, the direction of discussions, to the gotiations, which concluded in 2002; then,

12 13 INTERVIEW it began to prepare for monetary union, and is our lack of knowledge. It is all about that. sels. There are many bureaus and representative of- be used well. Membership itself is an indispensable then there was entry into the Schengen area, We lack self-confidence because we lack knowl- fices – a small Europe – but unfortunately, there are condition, but far from sufficient. which was less visible to the public. Notably edge. Only knowledge can put you alongside hardly any Slovenians there. The EU is much more in this field, Slovenia showed a high degree other EU Members. We say we are equal in in- than it appears; there are many things going on And your vision of the future? of activity, it took a very active part in enter- stitutions, in taking decisions; we say that the outside the official European institutions. There are After all I have said, I still do not see the European ing the Union with other Members. Without small are equal to the big. Legal equality is an hardly any Slovenians in these offices. If we do not story so pessimistically. Despite everything, our our initiative, we would not have entered the indispensable condition, but not sufficient. If know what to do in Brussels, who does? We have an smallness, flexibility and ‘Balkan mentality’ are sav- Union. Also, there was the Presidency, which you are not an equal partner in dialogue, and unusual practice of thinking we can resolve every- ing us. We are used to improvising; and, on the oth- was nothing like any of the previous activities. an equal interlocutor, you cannot be equal in thing with a phone call, without being there. That er hand, we are used to working and maintaining The stakeholders, public inclusion, the people taking decisions. You can only be an equal part- is not the way to do it. We should be aware that the order. We never conducted great diplomacy in order implementing it – everything was different. ner in dialogue, if you have knowledge and if Brussels bureaucracy works for twenty-seven coun- to achieve our goals by greatness or power; we had Each activity was a separate lesson. I would you are professional enough. tries, in which 450 million people live, and that our to work hard and well. Nothing was given to us. It like to emphasise that Slovenia is rather good at problem is not the only one. We conduct ourselves is an experience to learn from. In particular - a lot performing in precisely defined roles, when the How does Slovenia compare with other as if we are the only one and something special, as of work is needed, one should be persistent and not parameters are known, when we know what to new Member States? if our problems and ideas are the only ones. Un- all results which are good for Slovenia are also good do. We are extremely good at that. Slovenia was extremely successful during ex- til now, somehow, we have managed to get over it, for Europe. tensive negotiations, particularly in joining the but it is only a matter of time before we will not be And in what ways are we not? monetary union. Now, when this is not the po- able to do so anymore. We console ourselves that Probably, a kind of balance between nation- Our biggest defects are lack of self-confidence, litical elites’ project, the project of twenty-five we still have enough time, but actually, we do not. al and European interests is required. initiative and being proactive. It is not enough people representing their country, now that it The current crisis has brought us down to earth and In this moment of crisis, the search for balance is simply to respond passively to a given, known is the project of all of us, we are losing it. No we are beginning to be aware that every amount of more difficult. In Europe, it is a matter of redefin- thing, which has to be accepted and adapted one will come knocking at your door to of- money is very important. We should be aware that ing national interests. When we are doing well, no to... As I already said, we are good at that. We fer things. It is necessary to have people with funds from Brussels are hard-earned. The competi- one looks in anyone’s pocket, since everyone has fail when we should reflect on what is really go- knowledge to achieve something, people who tion is stronger, because demands and obligations enough, and then it is easy to speak of common, Eu- ing on, and what should be done to land on are also aware of their responsibility. Recently, are higher. It will become more and more difficult ropean interests. However, these are always at stake solid ground, when necessary. In order to know there has been a lot of talk about businessmen to get funds. when economic activity declines. This recurs every for certain what to do, when it will have to be who should be socially responsible. Of course, 20 years. The need for self-preservations arises and, done. Unfortunately, it is not only the first win- it is right for them to be so, but there are other How do we navigate between national inter- in such moments, national interests are considerably ter snow that surprises us, but also things that fields in which we should be responsible, too. ests and common, European interests? more expressed. Small countries tend more towards should be anticipated if one had the right ana- If we compare, I have to say that the Austrians During the approach to the EU, we knew exactly general interests than towards the individual. They lytical approach to them. had similar problems. Their negotiations took what our priorities were; it never occurred to us to obtain more from common interests than from just less time, but membership caught them un- sacrifice a project to the interests of political parties. defending their own, while large countries are so Therefore, the five-year period is the tip prepared; they needed a lot of time to establish That time was one of the rare moments in history large that the European interest represents added of the iceberg, as you say; how do you how the project really functions. In negotia- when Slovenians were able to stand together, which value to them, but not the basics. We should be see the iceberg below the surface? tions, you only get an external picture; when is praiseworthy. Today, the crisis is our priority. aware that Slovenia will be as strong as the EU. If Ninety per cent of this iceberg is below the sea. you are inside, you see how it should function. Here, the priorities for Slovenia should be clearly the EU falls apart, that will also be Slovenia’s fate, Unfortunately, it is not very interesting to the Some have problems even after 20 years of defined - we should not be caught up in problems since we share the EU sovereignty and participate in media. It is true that we were successful in the membership; for example, Greece still has. with Croatia and Russia and, finally, by national af- it. We share only a fragment of sovereignty, but we results following the negotiations, but it is not fairs. We are overly engaged in them, which is wast- participate in a large part of European sovereignty, in enough. By which I mean that successful nego- What has disappointed you the most? ing too much strength. Opportunities pass and are the economic, political, military or scientific fields. tiations do not suffice for true success, if we are I expected more motivation from people. May- lost forever. As we were able to stand together dur- not able now to realise and use the agreement. be I was too idealistic. Of course, I speak of those ing the approach to the EU and were able to find What further developments would you like The iceberg below the surface represents the who have the task of finding true opportunities real experts, so we should act today. They should to see? Slovenian qualification of local communities, in Europe. During negotiations, we were lead- be found and invited to participate in projects in Slovenia should strive to change the European proj- various expert services, the education system ing the group, the Commission followed our which political guidelines should not be the crite- ect from a marketing and unduly economic project and other institutions for making the most analyses; but now, many new Member States ria. Slovenia should absolutely find a consensus in functioning only for the benefit of capital, to a so- of our negotiating achievements. The best ex- outmatch us. So the criterion is recognition by the greater inclusion of people in projects. Instead, cial project. Now it is time to do more on the social ample is the utilisation of funds. We were very the people who are creating Europe. It is true various expert groups form, and compete with each project in order to prove that Europe is also a social good at negotiating our funds - that was a great that we are small, and few in number, but oth- other. It is a great loss for the nation. We cannot project. With respect to all the concessions obtained success for our negotiators, both in the field of ers are more recognisable for their self-confi- afford this, since we do not have enough people. by capitalists, workers do not represent the concerns regional, budget and agricultural policy. How- dence. Before joining the EU, we were used to Those who cannot find satisfaction and recognition of an individual country; solutions should be found ever, being entitled to receive funds does not following the Commission’s orders; now, after here should go somewhere else. Countries used to within a wider, European framework. If we let the mean you receive them. If money cannot be accession, when we are on our own and no- have a monopoly on citizens’ knowledge; now, that holders of capital use all the benefits for themselves, used through projects and expert groundwork, body gives us homework, it is our task to find has gone. Just as they do not have a monopoly on and leave redundancy and workers’ problems to in- if there are not enough qualified people, then it. We are weak here. We do not have enough goods, services and capital, they do not have a mo- dividual countries, this will not function. The Eu- it is useless, however much there is. If you can- people in Brussels; we also lack people outside nopoly on people. We cannot expect experts to wait ropean structure should be filled with knowledge not bring it to Slovenia, there might as well be the prescribed quota. It seems Slovenians are to be asked for their opinion by the state. and concern for the people. This is my vision of the none. The reason we are not sufficiently active not interested in living and working in Brus- EU membership is an opportunity which should future Europe.

14 15 vignettes ensures some funds for say that homemade products need to be the payment of the loans Slovenia promoted better. They are promoting greater took to build the motorways. The self-sufficiency, as Slovenia imports half of Ministry of Transport assesses that its food, including 70% of vegetables. the sale of vignettes will not raise The conference on constructing low- energy and passive buildings, which Vesna Bertoncelj Popit, DELO, photo: STA as much revenue as expected, and announced that half-yearly vignettes took place during the Construction and Building Materials Fair ‘Megra’ differences in estimates of how far the would be withdrawn. in the town of Gornja Radgona, Slovenian GDP might fall this year. The When the Government declared it would showed that at the moment passive government Institute of Macroeconomic present new ideas for pension scheme houses are selling well in Slovenia. Analysis and Development predicted a 4% reform in the summer, some wondered But the enthusiasm for more drop. Other economists declared this to if the vacation period was the best time complicated and expensive buildings be too dire, and the Governor of the Bank for such an important discussion. In the did not happen over night. Slovenian of Slovenia, Marko Kranjec, predicted a past few days, a government proposal has experts have been promoting them 2% drop. Others again thought Kranjec’s emerged to raise the retirement age and for years, and even established predictions out of date; for instance, equalize it for both sexes at 65 years of age. It Zdenko Pavček met his Croatian counterpart in Zagreb, where they agreed that the two countries a consortium, combining the Mojmir Mrak, of the Faculty of Economics has provoked harsh criticism from unions, do not focus enough on economic issues. Faculty of Architecture and thirty- at the University of Ljubljana estimates that who have announced demonstrations, six companies in the low-energy in these rapidly changing circumstances, and employers, despite the fact that the these shops every day last year, and the meanwhile, Slovenian investments in and passive building construction even two-week-old predictions could be latter have been more sympathetic to the managing director of Spar, Igor Mervič, Kosovo amounted to 200 million euros business. out of date. But the competition among retirement proposals. Public employees have finds that this year customers are more and there are a number of companies still According to the latest findings of the institutes predicting economic situations is also announced protests if the government interested in cheaper products, but also in interested in investing there. Statistical Office of the Republic of a good thing, says Mrak, because it enables intends to interfere with their salaries again. eco-products, which are more expensive The Revoz company and Adria Mobil from Slovenia, approximately 58 per cent of more accurate predictions. The Government response is that their only than average. Novo Mesto have announced that Adria population of Slovenia use the internet, choice is between lower salaries for all, or The President of the Chamber of Mobil would lend some workers to Revoz to which puts Slovenia below the European Niko Toš, head of the Centre, explains that these firing some public employees, whose jobs Commerce and Industry of Slovenia, answers show how capitalism has taken deep start working night shifts in April this year. average. Slovenia is statistically also below roots in Slovenia. at the moment are among the safest. Zdenko Pavček, met his Croatian At the same time, the decision of Renault the European average in numbers of Following an example from abroad, the first counterpart in Zagreb, Croatia, to transfer part of their Clio 2 production broadband connections. Slovenia reached According to ‘Politbarometer’, a public ‘SOS store’ has opened in Ljubljana, selling where they agreed that the two to France attracted a lot of attention in the fifty per cent mark of internet users in opinion survey by the Public Opinion and essential consumer goods to those most countries do not focus enough on Slovenia and in the EU. President Sarkozy 2006 and, according to modest predictions, Mass Communication Research Centre at in need at significantly lower prices. The economic issues. Croatia is the third explained the matter, as requested by the three quarters of Slovenians should be the Faculty of Social Sciences, University of managers intended to open more stores in largest buyer of Slovenian goods Slovenian Prime Minister. using the internet by 2015. In the most Ljubljana, Slovenians feel most affected by other Slovenian towns, but the first attempt and the sixth largest supplier of the The Government called on the developed countries as many as 90 per cent the economic and financial crisis in reduced to open an SOS store in Slovenia failed, and Slovenian market. The exchange of management boards of banks and of the population aged 10 to 74 use the incomes, falling real estate values and the the store closed temporarily due to empty goods between the two countries state-owned companies to reduce internet. low value of stock, and only after these shelves. In the meantime, other Slovenian reached two and a half billion euros salaries and executive bonuses. With According to provisional data from the three, by the threat of losing employment. retailers are advertising extra cheap wares. last year, of which 1.7 billion was in rising unemployment, a similar Statistical Office of the Republic of Niko Toš, head of the Centre, explains that In December last year, for instance, Spar Slovenian exports to Croatia, and campaign is spreading throughout Slovenia, Slovenian exports of goods in the these answers show how capitalism has Mojmir Mrak estimates that in these rapidly had sixty-four outlets and eleven Interspar 832 million in imports from Croatia. the world, but as in other countries, first two months of this year fell by a quarter taken deep roots in Slovenia. changing circumstances, even two-week-old mega markets in Slovenia. An average of Apart from that, in the last three it is not going smoothly in Slovenia, compared with the same period last year, predictions could be out of date. But before the survey had been one hundred thousand customers used years, most of Slovenia’s foreign either, as most executives are not while imports fell by 30 per cent. Inflation completed, unemployment had Toll-road vignettes and ideas of investments have been in Croatia. In prepared to reduce their incomes in Slovenia in March was 1 per cent. risen to almost 80,000 - by the raising the age of retirement in order the light of the political uncertainties without significant public pressure. end of March. According to some to ensure the stability of public between the two countries, there When reconsidering the costs in the real evaluations, this number could rise is concern in Croatia that fewer as well as the public sector, a number of finances has attracted greater public to 100,000 by the end of the year. Slovenian tourists will be spending reports are emerging of extremely high attention than these predictions of Some of the worst forecasts even their vacations there this year. payments made for various advisory and economic activity or government predict it could exceed the number So Croatian tourist organizations other services, which proves that along measures to help companies Potočnik Jordovič Mateja photo: of unemployed in the period after have launched special campaigns with the rest of the world Slovenia paid and banks. The Slovenian public Slovenia gained independence, when to welcome Slovenian guests and too little attention to, or even consciously it reached 130,000. Few companies supported the idea of introducing persuade them to come by reminding allowed extremely high payments for are not announcing lay-offs, and short-term and cheaper vignettes them that they did not stay away various purposes which would probably even fewer are planning to recruit. for vehicles of foreign citizens who from the Adriatic coast even during have remained hidden had it not been for While the President of the US, Barack only visit Slovenia for a short while the war in the Balkans. the financial crisis. Obama, substantiated the need for one or even just pass through. But the The General Manager of the Chamber, Due to the fact that the demand for of the crisis packages by stating that final agreement with the EU as to Samo Hribar Milič, visited Kosovo domestic products has fallen, the circumstances are improving, Slovenia how much the vignettes should cost with thirty representatives of Slovenian Chamber of Agriculture and Forestry of is not that optimistic yet, even though does not seem to have been reached companies. Last year, Slovenia exported Slovenia decided to stimulate consumers there are reports of improvement in some yet. What is important for Slovenia 80 million euros worth of goods to by launching a campaign called ‘Buy sectors. What came as a surprise were great is that the revenue from the sale of Kosovo, with imports at 3 million euros; Homemade’ (‘Kupujte domače’).They

16 17 18 LETTER FROM AMBASSADOR Terry Davis Secretary General Secretary Rt. Hon. of theCouncil of Europe

are achievingprogress across Europe. have more difficultiesthanothers, butthefactisthat we their compliancewiththoseobligations. Some countries voluntarily submitthemselves torigorous monitoringof governments acceptlegally bindingobligationsand democracies. Ratheritisaplace ofwork, where The Councilof Europe isnotaclubofperfect third pillaroftheCouncilEurope. –andtheseassistanceprogrammes representpartners the jointly withtheEuropean Union or other international our assistanceprogrammes –someofthemundertaken The results ofourmonitoringsystems feeddirectly into rules. which significantlyimproves compliancewiththeagreed system. Most ofourconventions have amonitoringbody, The secondpillaristheCouncilof Europe monitoring solutions toglobalproblems. is opentonon-European countries. We propose global approaches ininternationallegalcooperation,butalso combines strong humanrightssafeguards withinnovative Beings andourCybercrime Convention, notonly our Convention onAction against Trafficking in Human generation ofCouncilEurope conventions, suchas conventions –more than200ofthem.Thenew the termusedtodescribelistofCouncilEurope The firstpillaristhe European legalspace,whichis We are organisedaround three pillars. European ofHuman Court Rights. Convention onHuman Rights,enforced through the with theEU’s 27–istheguardian oftheEuropean from theEuropean Union, andhas47memberscompared The Councilof Europe –whichiscompletelyseparate and extenddemocracy, oflaw. humanrightsandtherule intergovernmental organisationcreated in1949todefend next sixmonths,itwillbeatthehelmofEuropean call agrandslamininternationalrelations. For the Slovenia tocompletewhatIwould withanopportunity The chairmanshipoftheCouncil Europe provides photo: STA Europe (OSCE). Union and the Organization for Security and Cooperationsuch in a task when it presided over the Council of the EuropeanBut Slovenia has already shown it is capable of carryinginstitution out with such an extensive membership is demanding.The project of holding the Presidency of an international rule of law, democracy and human rights in the region.commitments from the Council of Europe in the fields ofSouth-eastern the Europe. Slovenia will make efforts forto greater health and biomedicine. Special attention will be paidof children, to preserving cultural heritage, and rights connectedEurope. In addition, attention will be dedicated to theminorities rights and improving the state of the Roma communityPresidency in will express Slovenia’s dedicationand to promotion protecting of the organization. Thus the priorities forof thethe country to contribute its share to the developmentrights. As mentioned, the Presidency offers an opportunityfounded on democracy, the rule of law and respect forof thehuman organization and its members to establish a Europeto the Council of Europe, as well as the common efforts During our Presidency, the priorities will be thethird responsibility summit of the Council of Europe in Warsaw commitmentsin 2005. of the organisation that were made during theThe programme of the Slovenian Presidency is founded on the challenges for the country chairing the Council. pending Belarus membership of the Council of Europe areof peace in Georgia, the situation in the south Caucasuswhich and faces many problems. The post-conflict establishmentof attention to reforming the European Human Rights goalsCourt, and mission. Slovenia will therefore have to dedicatesuccess isa lotextremely important in realising the organization’sof the Council of Ministers, which covers many issues issues.whose Furthermore, it will receive the agenda for theresponsibility meetings to successfully confront the above-mentionedStepping behind the steering wheel Slovenia accepts the the scope of the organization’s values and commitment.affects the budgets of member states and their activitiesinfluencing within its budget and, consequently, its operations.The current It also economic situation is also an important factorwith the activities of the European Council in many fields.new European institutions were established which competemaking is still to a great extent by mutual agreement.membership Many expanded from 10 to 47 countries. Decision- which constantly faces numerous important challenges. Itsregards this celebration as an acknowledgement of its itswork, 60th anniversary. The oldest pan-European organisationWe will preside over the Council of Europe when it celebrates country. policy goals, and for the recognition and promotion of numerousour opportunities both for the realisation of our anforeign important responsibility. At the same time, it offerschallenge. The role that will be taken over by SloveniaCouncil carries of the European Union, we are faced with a uniqueof Europe. Similarly to last year, when we presidedwill over preside the over the Committee of Ministers of the CouncilOn 12th May and 18th November, the Republic of Slovenia

photo: personal archive Council ofEurope of Sloveniato the Representative Permanent Ambassador Bole Marjetica ahead of me the challenge to forward I amlooking –

19 LETTER FROM AMBASSADOR AMBASSADOR FROM LETTER Albert Kos, photo: STA Jože Osterman, photo: National Gallery archive 41st INTERNATIONAL WRITERS Zoran Mušič MEETING, BLED The international gathering of writers in the There were several accompanying events at an outstanding figure of town of Bled organized by the Slovenian which the participants read their poetry and twentieth-century Slovenian art PEN Centre has long been traditional. prose. A presentation of the French poet and Each year, writers from all over the world translator Marc Alyn was held at Ljubljana It is only in recent years that Slovenia has the devastation of the First World War, Paris, the Musée National d’Art Moderne are able to meet and exchange opinions on City Museum. Marc Alyn is responsible really come to know one of its great artists, something which returned to his artist’s in the Pompidou Centre, the principal art a number of topics regarding their work for a number of extraordinary translations Zoran Mušič. A physically striking man, memory with the burnt trees on the wide gallery in Munich, the exhibition centre and the standing and influence they have in of Slovenian poetry into French, as well as whose physiognomy was a clear indication plateaux of the Karst. He graduated from in Kassel – it is easy to see that from this society as writers. This year’s 41st gathering for putting Slovenian literature on the world of the unique spirit that dwelt in his body, the Zagreb Academy of Arts in 1934 and point of view too, Mušič is an artist who took place between March 26 and March map, whereby an important landmark was and who, despite a life that was never easy soon began exhibiting his works. When has no equal in Slovenia. 29. Approximately 60 participants from the French edition of the poetry of Slovenian or comfortable, lived to the grand old age the Germans occupied the Primorska 25 countries attended two round table avant-garde poet Srečko Kosovel, translated of 96, he left his mark on the end of the last (Littoral) region following the capitulation His reputation around the world was discussions, where they talked about the role by Marc Alyn and published in 1965 in century. Not only with the works which his of Italy, he was arrested and sent to Dachau, finally established with a cycle of works of culture and the media in the process of the famous collection Poètes d’aujourd’hui friend of many years, the renowned gallery where he remained until the end of the inspired by Dachau and entitled We Are ©ultu®ε liberating Central, Eastern and Southern by Seghers of Paris. Unfortunately, due to director Zoran Kržišnik, collected into two war. Dachau shocked and challenged him, Not The Last. Next came a series on the Europe two decades ago. The third round illness, Marc Alyn could not take part in the table discussion was dedicated to images event. exhibitions at the Museum of Modern Art and he returned to Ljubljana immediately perception of the fragility of life, where (of which he was director) in 1990 and after the end of the war with over 100 tangles of roots and burnt trees prevail, and of womanhood in literature, particularly 1997, or, even more notably, with the extraordinary drawings of the horrors he then placid scenes of Venetian churches the dedication of literary heroines to peace, The Slovenian PEN Centre was established important exhibition at the Grand Palais had witnessed in the camp. But post-war and landscapes whose tranquil beauty happiness and prosperity. as early as 1926. Participants at the 1933 in Paris, opened by François Mitterand conditions were strange, and in 1945 he point to the wonder but at the same time World Congress in the town of Dubrovnik and Milan Kučan, respectively presidents abandoned Yugoslavia, a move that was the vulnerability and fragility of existence. The President of the Republic of Slovenia, were among the first to condemn fascism of France and Slovenia at the time, but perhaps prompted by jealous fellow-artists An awareness of the delicate, sensitive and & Danilo Türk, welcomed the participants and Nazism at the international level. PEN above all for the fact that there is practically and self-satisfied authorities, first settling transitory nature of things, which for this and participated in one of the discussions. was forced to close down in 1941 with the

no major world art collection that does in Gorizia and then in 1952 moving on to reason must be protected and respected, is He emphasised the lack of critical occupation of Yugoslavia, and it did not not contain at least one of his works in Paris. Venice and Paris became his homes the common thread of his oeuvre, which thought in today’s journalism, stating revive until 1962. In 1965 it organized the its catalogue. This year, on the occasion of and the places where he associated with some, viewing it superficially, might that political correctness contributes to 33rd World PEN Congress in the town of the centenary of his birth, Slovenia bows other members of the art world. Veno Pilon even consider visually unattractive, but the impoverishment of today’s media Bled. The congress was the first ever to host to him, enormously proud to call him its was one of those who were closest to him. which then surprises us with its immense discourse, while too often the persuasiveness writers from the Soviet Union, who took part son, but also with something of a guilty Gradually, Mušič became an increasingly spirituality and depth. The decision to of arguments is too weak, which leads to as observers, making the event a landmark conscience, since there is no doubt that it respected cultural ambassador of Slovenia make the celebration of the centenary of insufficient and superficial judgement and in communication between writers of the brought bitterness to his life in the early and Yugoslavia and his exhibitions became the artist’s birth the main commemorative understanding of the ongoing processes in then divided Western and Eastern world. post-war years. known throughout Europe – from Austria event of 2009 in the sphere of culture – in the world today. The mayor of the town Ever since, the Bled meetings have upheld via Germany and – hardest of all – to the other words a sort of Mušič Year – is a of Bled, Janez Fajfar, prepared a reception and encouraged openness in writers’ Mušič was born in 1909 in Bukovica most prestigious galleries of France. But deserved recognition of an artistic genius for the guests, as did the mayor of the city dialogue and enabled writers to respond to near Bilje, close to the Soča (Isonzo) when we look at the galleries in which who has finally returned home. of Ljubljana, Zoran Janković, when they the problems, conflicts and contradictions Front, where as a boy he experienced Mušič exhibited – the Musée de la Ville in visited the capital. of the modern world.

20 21 ΔЯτ

Text and photo: Matevž Lenarčič THE ALPS – A Bird’s-Eye View A monograph entitled ‘The Alps – a bird’s Liguria further inland give way to the harsh eye view’ by Matevž Lenarčič (photos) and Alpine climate, with substantial temperature Janez Bizjak (text) has been published by the deviations and notable icing conditions. PanAlp publishing house. From 16 April to Instead of political boundaries and 16 June, an exhibition of 100 photos will nationalism, the Alpine region must become also be on show at the Jakopič Promenade a fundamental identity for the population in Ljubljana. Photographs portray the living there. Life in the Alps is universal. characteristics and specifics of different The shepherd from the Kamnik-Savinian regions of the Alps with a clear artistic style Alps understands the existential problems of and understandable viewpoint. Text explain the shepherd living in the French Alps more Jože Osterman, photo: Nada Žgank the geopolitical framework of specific regions profoundly than anyone in Paris or Ljubljana. of the Alps (geology, geography, population, At the same time, the Alps are an outstanding culture, flora, fauna, etc.) with clear guidelines tourist destination, one that must invite the Bunker opens for future sustainable planning. large number of eager visitors with caution The Alps are a single geographical and in order to preserve these priceless jewels geological entity, yet they also constitute a with their unique features that make them space culturally, biologically and climatically very so beautiful. There is little doubt that the In recent decades, both of the largest is undoubtedly the conceptual mother of Bunker’s latest programmes, with a diverse region. Besides the Mediterranean priority of Alpine development is the balance Slovenian cities, Ljubljana and Maribor, this development. In 2004, Bunker took significant proportion of the financing region, the Alps are the second largest between tourism and the preservation of the acquired some new cultural organisations, over the management of part of the old from European funds, are marked by the ecosystem in Europe. Even in the distant living conditions of the people who inhabit institutions or associations, through city power station and, in agreement with desire not only to show artistic production, past this mountain range posed a natural the region. Only when all Alpine nations which new social, notably cultural and the Ministry of Culture and the electricity but use it to flood the social environment, barrier to migration flows, and at the same develop sensitivity and responsibility for this artistic practices were brought to their distribution company, converted it into thereby making art a vehicle for active time provided refuge and a rich setting for region will we fully realize how to cherish and urban spaces. Subjects such as Metelkova an excellent space for cultural activities. change. Some of their projects deal with habitation. Different relative elevations of the preserve this unique environment. and Bunker in Ljubljana and Kibla in Under Bunker’s management, the old issues that could be of key significance for terrain offer varied conditions for a wide range Because of the outstanding qualities of the Maribor are now trying to reach the level, power station has become an exceptionally our future, but of which we do not yet of plant and animal life. The mild influences Alpine region, we are obliged to preserve it which has already become an integral part lively cultural centre, with an unbelievable have enough knowledge or experience. of the Mediterranean gulfs of Trieste and for future generations. of urban life in many cities of Western range of events, where many non- For example, Sevnica Primary School has Europe and the USA and represents a focal institutional local and foreign artistic an interesting programme for integrating point of social integration. I intentionally groups participate. “There is so much on school and culture; the Sotenutto Project mention only the most established offer, that it is difficult to make a selection,” (which is led by an organization in organisations, as otherwise it could be said says Koprivšek, who adds that, despite the Italy, with Bunker being one of many that in both cities there is already a solid interesting and diverse organisation of organizations involved) is trying to network of small, but innovative and vital this part of the programme, she is sorry introduce art into individual communities non-governmental organisations, which that Bunker cannot obtain more funds or city quarters as a behavioural style irrepressibly create completely new forms for its own productions, as they are able and an essential element of the urban of social integration. to organize only two projects per year on environment; the international association average. However, these are projects that of Balkan Express Projects is trying to re- In many aspects, Ljubljana Bunker paved can take your breath away! In addition to establish links with cultural areas in the the way. From a small group that ten years its star turn, the famous Betontanc dance south-east which were interrupted years ago primarily produced low-budget dance group, in recent years Bunker carried out ago, and perhaps create new ones; the and theatre projects, a non-profit institution extremely successful projects with the Art and Climate Changes project should grew, which is formally still intended choreographer and dancer Sanja Neškovič inform people, without moralising, for the organisation and performance of Peršin, musician Milko Lazar, and director about changes happening in nature and cultural events. Although the number of Jasna Hribernik; its performance called the in themselves and about using art as self- people working for the organization is Choir of Complaints was a high-profile reflection contributing significantly to the not much greater than at the beginning, production, and its own trademarks search for new lifestyles. Koprivšek adds, they have developed into one of the most cannot be overlooked: the Young Lions modestly, that in this field, Bunker is interesting creative teams in the country in Festival, City of Women and the newer primarily a laboratory attempting what no terms of their innovation, intensive work Drugajanja, a project with the Second one has done before, and that it could also and the broadness of their programmes. High School in Maribor, which informs fail; but youth and the enthusiasm of her Nevenka Koprivšek, the founder of pupils about modern art and promotes its young team is almost certainly a guarantee Bunker and today still its creative director, distribution to various environments. that at least some things will succeed.

22 23 Jana Bogataj, photo: STO

Processio Jože Osterman, photo: STA Roma culture month Locopolitana Romano Chon in Roma - enraptured Slovenia In the picturesque Alpine foothills of Gore- in making the atmosphere of the town even ing text and determined the forms of the njska is the small town of Škofja Loka, more authentic: red candles shine in the chant. In view of the domination of the In April, the Slovenian cities of Ljubljana All the best Roma performers appeared at which, through its well-preserved medieval windows, flags flutter along the walls of the German language, to which the Slovenians and Maribor were awaiting an interesting the festival, which began on April 2 and city centre, attracts numerous visitors. How- buildings and the smells of medieval dishes had been, under various rule, subjected for cultural event. Under the spiritual patron- lasted for the whole month, The musicians ever, very few know what a great treasure is issue from the restaurants. around 1,000 years, it is indeed remarkable age of the Council of Europe, which in of Šukar, Nas Three, Kontrabant, paum hidden behind the walls of the Capuchin that he wrote the play in Slovenian, and in 2008 took the initiative to establish Routes Tschack (France), Romano Drom (Hun- Monastery: the earliest preserved script Stages have been erected on four original this manner went down in history as the of Roma Culture and Heritage in an ef- gary), Etno Klarentino, Mlada beltinška from the Baroque period in Europe. To of- scenes, where the spectators, while listening first author of a Slovenian drama. This fort to draw attention to the status of this banda, Little Langa and Koko & Mandovi fer more and more people the opportunity to Gregorian chant, wait for the first echo cultural treasure is, of course, especially people (probably the most discriminated groups enraptured the public with their to share this cultural heritage, plans are in of the trot of horses, which announces the protected, so that it underwent only small and displaced in Europe, who also do not extremely melodious Roma music, and a place to revive the Škofja Loka Passion Play beginning of the Sixth Processio Locopoli- linguistic change. have their own country), Slovenia played large audience also discovered the artistic every six years. Therefore, this year can be tana. During the two-hour performance, its part in this initiative with the first Roma achievements of the Roma in the fields of considered a new starting point. more than 800 performers move in the The director of this year’s enactment, Borut Culture Month. In Ljubljana, it was held in photography, dance, film and literature; form of a procession past the audience Gartner, paid particular attention to pre- the premises of the main Slovenian cultural there were also special programmes for Jože Osterman, photo: archive Already from afar, one can see the red light – some on horseback, some on donkeys or serving the original charm, and, follow- institutions, such as the Slovenian Ethno- children. There were altogether more than illuminating the Castle of Škofja Loka dur- on movable stages carried by some 20 men ing the tradition of previous performances graphic Museum (which is also the co-or- fifty events, including round tables and lec- CONCERT OF THE YEAR ing Lent and Easter. The red denotes suf- dressed in monk’s habits, or simply on foot, (1721, 1727, 1728, 1999 and 2000), cast ganiser of the festival, besides the Roma tures on Roma issues, where many experts UNDER THE AUSPICES fering and blood, and the light marks the accompanied by the clangour of medieval all the parts of the play by exclusively Academic Club) and some other eminent and Roma people themselves spoke of their OF KD GROUP - commemoration of Christ’s Passion each tools. The play is about the biblical tradi- choosing volunteers from Škofja Loka and cultural locations in both cities. The hon- situation in Slovenia. This was one of the LAIBACH AND WAGNER year by the inhabitants of this small town tion of Christ’s Passion in 20 scenes, which, its surroundings. Three hairdressers and orary committee, presided over by the best organised and most profound events northwest of Slovenia’s capital, Ljublja- with a mixture of drama and reproduction fourteen make-up artists who, in a matter Minister of Culture, Majda Širca, included in the independent Slovenia, significantly PERFORMED BY THE RTV na. But this year, the whole town will be of images, depict the story of the human of a few hours, transform the population of the Human Rights Ombudsman, Zdenka contributing to mutual understanding be- SLOVENIA SYMPHONY wrapped in red, because, after an interval kind from the expulsion of Adam and Eve a town into figures from the Baroque pe- Čebašek Travnik, the director of Europe tween the majority people and an impor- ORCHESTRA of nine years, this unique passion play, of from Paradise, through the Last Supper to riod, also work on a voluntary basis. Since Centre in Ljubljana, Kristina Plavšak Kran- tant proportion of its Roma citizens. The new musical project entitledVOLK - great world significance, will once more be the salvation of humanity. Indeed, it is pre- September last year, dressmakers have been jc, the president of the Roma Union of Slo- Parliament Speaker Pavel Gantar addressed SWAGNER which took place on 18 enacted. The organisers have been particu- sented in the same form as originally writ- working on fitting costumes, which strong- venia, Jože Horvat Muc, the director of the the main ceremony marking International April in Gallusova Hall in Cankarjev larly careful to preserve as many authentic ten almost 300 years ago. ly follow the symbolic colour pattern of Office for National Minorities, Stanko -Ba Roma Day in Lendava on 10April saying Dom presented collaboration between elements as possible dating back to the year white, black and red. loh, and the mayors of Ljubljana and Mari- that this holiday was an opportunity to the controversial group Laibach and the of the play’s origin, 1721, so that the visitor The origins of the play were in 1598 and bor, Zoran Jankovič and Franc Kangler. point to the openness and multiculturality RTV Slovenia Symphony Orchestra can plunge into the Baroque period. The 1599, when Slovenia was hit by a plague, Therefore, it is not hard to realise how This detail indicates the desire of Slovenia of Slovenia and the efforts for tackling seg- under the guidance of Izidor Leitinger. possibilities are abundant: which cost lives of hundreds of people. The much the inhabitants cherish their cultural to devote maximum attention to our Roma regation and discrimination in society. The performers decided to search their survivors tried to soothe their fears of the heritage and cultivate the medieval ele- people and proved that we are able to settle “The Roma community must be recognised inspiration in the act of reinterpretation, Škofja Loka, whose city centre was declared disease and a painful death by organising ments of their identity. Alongside this his- all open issues in this field, which are quite and acknowledged as an equal part of Slo- which draws a subtle map of journey a cultural monument in 1987, seems pre- Good Friday processions in remembrance torical resonance, the focal question raised numerous. A determination to move be- venian society, and the interests, wishes and from disputed Wagner to decadent Jazz destined to serve as a setting. The alleyways, of Christ’s suffering. Following the first by the Škofja Loka Passion Play will never yond prejudices and stereotypes regarding needs of this community should be treated modernists. Wagner was placed on inter- with their medieval structures and houses penitential processions, which had been lose any of its relevance, concerning as it Roma people - which have recently become equally and sometimes even seen as more pretive borders of no man’s land between show that, in architectural terms, little has held in Ljubljana, the Capuchin friar Ro- does the purpose and significance of hu- even stronger - with whom we have to live important than the interests of the majority the specific Miles Davis sound and ambi- changed since the 16th Century. In addi- muald Marušič was instructed to organise a man existence. a normal life, was evident at every event in population,” Gantar said. ental electronic music. tion, the inhabitants have spared no efforts passion play. He also wrote the correspond- the festival.

24 25 Our excellence

Prof. Boris Žemva, Dr. Boris Pukl, photo: IJS archive IJS researchers are important contributors to great international of advanced electronic devices for wireless image and sound collaborations (Large Hadron Collider in CERN near Geneva transmission. The researchers were the first in the world and KEK-B in Tsukuba in Japan), which are trying to to synthesize super-paramagnetic nanoparticles of barium understand the behaviour of the most basic particles at the hexaferrite using a hydrothermal method. In co-operation with highest energies available to humans. In the framework of the Iskra Feriti factory, they developed methods to synthesize measurements in the Jefferson Lab (USA) and MAMI (Germany) various nanoparticles of magnetic spinel ferrites and their laboratories, they successfully studied proton structure and for the stable suspensions - magnetic fluids. They developed SiC-based The Jožef Stefan first time succeeded in microscoping protons. The main thread of composites to be used in the fusion reactor. They developed a theoretical research into basic particles is the unification theory of ceramic head for a hip prosthesis with gradient composition, all basic interactions, with which they tried to explain the origin in which the head’s surface is made of biocompatible and of neutrino mass. wear-resistant aluminium oxide. They were the first to prepare Institute rod-shaped and tubular Co-Pt nanostructures with excellent Researchers at the IJS completely master the nanotechnology magnetic properties using direct electro-coating. They succeeded the largest research institute in Slovenia of manipulations at the atomic and molecular level, which puts in preparing the first lead-free transparent ceramic relaxor, which them among an exclusive circle of nine research institutions in is distinguished by good di-electrical, electrostriction and electro- the world. They discovered a huge electromechanical response optical properties. Together with the Faculty of Medicine in IJS conducts a broad spectrum in applicable ferroelectric relaxors, which can be of great Environment of Ba2+ cation in [Ba(XeF2)5](RuF6)2 compound of basic and applied research. significance for future planning and the production of sensors or The main fields of activity actuators. Understanding superconductivity phenomenon at high of its approximately 860 temperatures, magnetism in unusual webs, and the connections employees are natural sciences, between them is a great challenge both for theoretical and experimental research, which was performed on examples of life sciences and technical copper oxide superconductors and fullerene compounds. sciences. The Institute performs top-level research and the Research of complex systems, such as liquid crystals or biological development of technologies, systems, has a long-lasting tradition at the IJS. They used laser such as nanotechnologies, new pincers in nematic colloid systems to study forces between small materials, biotechnologies, colloid particles, and discovered that these forces enable the formation of stable two-dimensional colloid crystals. Theoretic management and production and experimental research in the field of biophysics focuses on technologies, communication understanding DNA structure understanding and the forces technologies, computer and acting between structures, on viral structure, and particularly knowledge technologies, on RNA packaging into viruses, the morphology of lipid environmental technologies vesicles and their clusters, and vesicle self-reproduction. Fruitful and reactor technologies. Its cooperation between the IJS and the Kolektor Idrija company enabled the development of new, environment-friendly procedure scientists have achieved a global for the plasma treatment of micro-composite intermediate Research of interaction of plasma with fusion reactor walls reputation. product surfaces. Ljubljana, they introduced into Slovenia research of ceramics on the basis of tetragonal zirconium oxide for use in dental medicine. In the field of biomedicine, they discovered an association between lysosomes and lysosomal proteases and apoptosis, One of the most eminent Slovenian institutions was established PHYSICS - FROM BASIC CHEMISTRY, which is extremely important for removal of cancer cells, and in 1949, taking its name from the eminent Slovenian physicist on the basis of which some cancer drugs function. In the field Jožef Stefan, who is also the only Slovenian after whom a physical BUILDING BLOCKS TO MATERIALS, of neurology, they were the first to demonstrate, in a mouse law has been named (Stefan’s Law of Radiation). motor neuron, that a certain secretory phospholipase A2 can IJS is financed entirely through national and international COMPLEX STRUCTURES BIOCHEMISTRY AND enter the cytosol of a living cell from an extracellular space. In projects, which the Institute obtains through various tenders the field of biotechnology, a transgenic potato plant was created or directly by marketing in commercial companies. The largest Modern research fields in physics comprise research of basic THE ENVIRONMENT which expresses the inhibitor equistatin acting on proteases in contributor is the Slovenian Research Agency, on behalf of which building blocks of nature, study of the structure of atomic cores the intestines of Colorado beetle, thereby inhibiting the beetle’s the Institute executes research programmes, basic and applied and atoms, understanding and manipulation of complex particles In the field of fluorine chemistry, the IJS researchers synthesized reproduction. The patent was purchased by the multinational research projects and educates junior researchers. of nanometre dimensions and biological structures, and findings a series of new binary compounds with metal in the highest Monsanto company. IJS combines and disseminates knowledge and technologies in the field of superconductivity and magnetism. Physicists at the oxidation states, and a series of new coordination compounds for the well-being of society. It provides top-level education IJS study matter in almost every condensed condition form: from with unusual ligands, which places the researchers among the best In the field of the environment, new chemical and nuclear and research and development of technologies at the highest liquids to crystals, from thin layers to biological tissues, from in the world in synthetic chemistry of fluorine compounds. analytical techniques were discovered, for use in basic and applied international level. The main goals of IJS are providing expert magnetic insulators to superconductors, from carbon nanotubes research of the distribution of elements and their isotopes, ionic scientific and applied service and educating top-level staff through to liquid crystals. They establish the basic properties of these Research of modern materials enabled the development of types, and inorganic and organic compounds in nature. They procedures, products and consultations. materials and try to find ways of using them. new electronic components and clusters for the production developed a series of environment-friendly technologies.

26 27

slovenian delights

Paradise for The Sun House Sights of Prekmurje • The stork is a special feature of Prekmurje; bon vivants (Sončna hiša) 90 per cent of the stork population in Slovenia nest in Prekmurje, and their distinctive nests Great food and wine are not the only The Sun House in the village of Banovci perched atop wooden poles have become a www.soncna-hisa.si local symbol. Approximately 200 pairs live lures to Prekmurje. The people are the ( ) is a wonderful in Slovenia, where they are among the most soul of the Mura River region. They are oasis of intimacy and relaxation, where popular birds. extremely hospitable, open and warm. guests discover their paradise. A luxury Polona Prešeren, photo: Tomo Jeseničnik and Darinka Mladenovič • The Mura River mill: a post-card image of Despite their special dialect, often in- and designer decorated boutique hotel, Prekmurje, although only two remain today. comprehensible to other Slovenians, it offers an original idea of how to enjoy Seventy years ago, there were over 90 mills. The Region beyond (and around) visitors still love to return to this part of one’s spare time and guarantees a five- The Babič Mill is still operating and is a great the country. Many crafts are practiced star hotel experience. With a personal attraction. Visitors can buy flour ground in the mill and see how the mill was traditionally here – above all, pottery, as clay is abun- approach to their guests, unequalled in operated. dant. After WW II the number of pot- Slovenia, it is an oasis for bon vivants • The Island of Love: near the village of ters greatly decreased, but family tradi- – the beautiful natural surroundings and Ižakovci, the Mura River has formed a natural tion passes the knowledge on to younger the first-class service, cuisine and wines island, named the Island of Love by the people the Mura River generations and pottery today is again heighten one’s senses. Only homemade here, due to its heart-like shape, as seen from a common craft. Traditional products and healthy food finds its way to the a birds-eye view. The island is known for the include a pitcher, pütra (a pitcher with table – jams, salamis and spreads, as well pristine nature and quietness that surrounds The plains beyond the Mura it. There is a bridge leading to the island. River may seem distant from a narrow neck) and bidrača (a ceramic as homemade bread and other culinary baking tray). delights. • The wooden ferryboat on the Mura River: the centre of Slovenia, as if visitors can still use it to cross the river, where in the past wooden ferryboats were the only time passes differently over Prekmurje offers numerous walking paths Five luxurious and exclusive suites are connection between the two banks. A wooden there; as if time and space and is a paradise for cyclists and all who available, each uniquely equipped, giv- cross is a traditional ornament on a ferryboat, flow in a special dimension. know how to enjoy themselves. Healing ing this hotel an additional charm and protecting the people and cargo from harm. This landscape of plains, springs are inviting and spas offer excel- a personal note: Limegrass, Sea Memo- • Goričko Regional Park: established to preserve the diversity of the natural river beds, ponds, thermal lent service. You can visit the Moravske ries, Natura, Manhattan and the family Toplice Spa or the Terme Lendava Spa. suite named Stork. And we should not surroundings. The park maintains a balance springs and endless fields, between people and nature, protects Also, before you cross the Mura River, forget to mention the wellness centre, a biodiversity, and is an ideal place to visit for still hides numerous gems. there are Zdravilišče Radenci Health Re- must for those who know how to enjoy those who are interested in rich ecosystems. These are places, where sort and Terme Banovci Spa. themselves. people are particularly open and friendly, giving the region across the Mura River a distinctive character.

Prekmurje is the northernmost region of Slovenia. Almost half of it is known as Goričko – a landscape of hills hiding beautiful spots to visit. The southern part of Prekmurje is mostly flat. It was covered by the Pannonian Sea millions of years ago. The sea is long gone, but the extremely rich soil, left when the sea receded, is the basis for successful agriculture and a delicious cuisine.

32 33 slovenian delights Pickled turnips with millet grouts (bujta repa)

Unique cuisine Ingredients: 500 g pickled turnips The Prekmurje Region is known for its unique 400 g fresh pork bones (back) and exceptional cuisine. Prekmurska gibanica 60 g millet (a layer cake with apples, cottage cheese, poppy 50 g pork lard seeds and walnuts) and bograč (a type of gou- 50 g onions lash) are the most recognised around Slove- Poppy seed roll (genjeni retaš) 20 g garlic nia. Prekmurska gibanica is a speciality among 20 g flour desserts, unmatched by any other in Slovenian Ingredients for stretched dough: 10 g ground red pepper cuisine. Within its multiple layers, a variety of 40 dg soft flour bay leaf, some peppercorns, salt, tastes, colours and aromas hides. The origi- 1 egg marjoram nal recipe requires a special technique, and a 1 quarter teaspoon of salt great deal of precision, skill and knowledge. Approx. 1 dl warm water Put the washed pickled turnips into a pot Four different layers of filling are placed on 1 tablespoon of warm melted butter or and add spices during cooking: bay leaf, a shortcrust pastry base (poppy seeds, cottage margarine some peppercorns, salt, marjoram and Dödöli – cheese, walnuts and apples) in strict sequence, 1 tablespoon of sour cream bones. When almost soft, add washed and separated by layers of filo dough. The -se potato hard boiled mush 30 g yeast or 1 bag of dried yeast millet, keeping it on the surface so it quence of fillings is repeated twice, topped by doesn’t stick to the pot. When the millet a final layer of filo dough and sour or sweet Ingredients: Knead an even, somewhat softer dough. porridge is done, make a light brown cream with egg yolk, or simply with butter. 500 g potatoes Make a loaf, put it on a flour-sprinkled roux from fat, flour, onions and ground Quite rich and complicated, don’t you agree? 1 small onion cloth and cover it to prevent a crust from red pepper.Stir cold water into the roux 400 g flour forming. Leave to rest in a warm place for and pour it over the cooked turnip and Traditionally, prekmurska gibanica was baked 100 g zaseka (lard) 30 minutes. millet porridge. Take meat from the bone only in round ceramic baking trays, therefore 1 tablespoon of fat and add to the turnip. Boil for a while the form of slices (triangular) was adapted ac- 1 dl sour cream Ingredients for dry poppy seed filling: and spice to taste. cordingly. Today, many decide to bake it in 30 dg well-ground poppy seeds rectangular ceramic or tin baking trays which Prepare salted boiled water for cooking 10dg sugar enable them to produce more and give the potatoes. 1 small bag of vanilla sugar cakes a rectangular shape. some cinnamon Preparation Mix all the ingredients to make a filling. The Prekmurje Slovenians also like to serve Pastry hoops (pereci) Peel the potatoes, wash, slice into cubes their guests šunka iz tünke (ham preserved and add to salted boiling water. Parboil Ingredients for cream topping: in animal fat), bujta repa (pickled turnips), Ingredients: only (about 10 minutes). Add sifted flour 0.5 dl white oil or margarine dödöli (a type of hard-boiled mush) and 1 kg soft or sharp flour and blanch. When the water spreads over 2 dl sour cream homemade zabil (a type of fat spread, known 30 g yeast or 2 bags of dried yeast the flour, lower the temperature and push 1 egg as zaseka in other parts of Slovenia). Another 2 tablespoons of sugar a ladle handle through the flour. Cook speciality is pajani krüj (toasted bread) with 3 – 4 dl of milk (or as much as needed) slowly for half an hour. Whisk whole eggs with sour cream. spread of garlic and zaseka. 1 tablespoon of salt Meanwhile, soften the zaseka in a hot Spread the dough on a cloth dusted with 30-40g margarine or 0.5 dl oil pan. Peel the onions and cut it into thin sharp flour until approx. 1 cm thick. Kitchens in Prekmurje also invite with a de- slices. Dissolve the fat in the pot and fry Stretch it with your hands as thinly as licious aroma of posolanke (leavened pastry Mix the ingredients and knead until the the onions in it. possible to the size of a medium-sized dough with cottage cheese and sour cream), dough becomes smooth and separates Pour off some water from the pot with kitchen table – be careful not to break it. zlevanke (a type of pancake, salty or sweet), easily from hands and bowl. Sprinkle the flour and potatoes and add hot Sprinkle the dry poppy seed filling on the retaši (strudel with various fillings: apple, the dough with some flour and allow to zaseka. Stirr well. If the mixture is too surface and drip it with cream topping. plum, turnip etc.), langaši (fried leavened pas- rise in a covered bowl until two or three dry, add some of the water you previously Cut away the thick edge with a blunt try dough), pereci (a type of bun), bosmani (a times its size. Divide the dough into poured off. knife, or tear it by hand. Roll it tightly type of flat cake) and many other delights. buns as big as a fist and leave to rest for Use a ladle to take the mixture out of the by using the cloth underneath. Cut the a few more minutes. Use your palms to pot and use a fork to grate it into a bowl roll to the size of a baking tray, using Prekmurje cuisine also abounds in homemade roll them into long rolls. Twist two rolls (the same technique as when making the edge of a plate, then put the rolls in jams, liqueurs, spirits and quality white wines. together and form a perec (a ring of 10- žganci). the greased baking tray; they should fit Pumpkin seed oil and hot red peppers are of- 12 cm wide). Let them rise on a wooden Add sour cream to fried onions, boil and loosely. Glaze with the rest of the cream ten used as flavouring. board for another half hour. Coat the pour over the dödöli. and egg mixture and bake in a preheated pereci with whisked egg, and bake in a Dödöli can be a lighter main dish, served oven at 230 degrees. When golden, lower Here are some original recipes from the Prek- preheated oven for 15-20 minutes at 200 with hot milk, although they are usually the temperature to 200 degrees. Don’t murje Region, so that you can get a taste of degrees. You can make straight pereci by served with beetroot or red cabbage as a cut it into slices until it cools down a the delights we are talking about. rolling them on a reed (stick), coating side dish to accompany meat dishes and bit. If desired, sprinkle with sugar before them with egg and baking. pickled cabbage or pickled turnip. serving. 34 35

NATURAL TRAILS Juš Turk, photo: Juš Turk and Darinka Mladenovič Foreigners owning houses in Slovenia

at high prices also in the northern region very beautiful and that, although it is a who are bothered by everything the new “To me, Slovenia is the centre Brendan Ruff: “I was looking for a of Gorenjska Foreigners are also interested small country, it has wonderful and di- owners undertake. But there have been of Europe” in buying in the valley of the Soča River, verse countryside, and Slovenians are very also some new residents who expected Brendan is originally from Newcastle country to live in – on condition while Italians prefer properties in the area friendly people. But you will see below that they could do whatever they liked upon Tyne, a city in north-east Eng- of Brda and in the surroundings of the that not exactly all of them are friendly. - building without permits, even starting that it wasn’t England” city of Koper. On the other hand, real es- an illegal business, - not knowing that land. Before he chose Slovenia as his new homeland, he had travelled much of the tate prices in the Goričko are considerable We have asked the Ruj real estate agen- they have to meet all the conditions laid world. He lived for some time in Ukraine, According to data from Slovenian tax of- owners from about 25 other countries. lower, which made many English – and cy in Sežana whether the impact of the down by law in Slovenia. But such people until, in search of a country to settle in, fices, as of 1 March this year, foreigners But there is little danger of foreigners also many Austrians and others – rather ongoing financial and economic crisis, are exceptions. he drove his SUV to Slovenia. Here, in had bought 3,060 pieces of real estate in owning too much property, because Slo- buy the cheaper, abandoned, but also which has caused prices to fall steeply in the town of Postojna he met a young vet, Slovenia since the country joined the Eu- venia can always launch procedures halt- idyllic houses there. They would refurbish the developed countries, is also being felt It is, of course, impossible to visit all for- Senja Marušič from the village of Gorenje; ropean Union. It is interesting that most ing such sales. them nicely for permanent residence, in Slovenia. They told us that there was eign owners. As we were trying to find and then, last year, in her rather desolate of them come from the UK, where, ac- or only for relaxation and for vacations. no significant drop in sales, while adding some of those who have settled perma- village he bought an old house, making cording to unofficial data, every sixth Why do foreigners like to buy What is more, many local residents claim that there was less interest than in the last nently in Slovenia, Mr Suša of the Ruj citizen owns real property overseas. They that these newcomers to Goričko have estate agency in Sežana was very help- it a new home for himself and Senja. He property in the north-eastern couple of years. are trailed by citizens of two of our neigh- pleasantly revived this countryside. They ful, because he still maintains friendly proudly says that everything in the house, bouring countries, Italy and Austria, who area of Goričko? are also trying hard to learn at least some contacts with some of the owners whom from furniture to fittings, is the work of are closely followed by Germans, while The greatest demand for real estate among Slovenian language, which is the hardest Bureaucracy is what bothers his agency helped buy property. He im- his own hands. Senja used to live only there are also many Irish, French, Dutch, foreigners was first seen in the coastal re- thing to do, especially for the English. All them most mediately connected us with Leonardo two houses away. “We also have horses Swedes, Belgians, Hungarians, Spaniards gion of Primorska particularly in the area of them already knew and then noticed Unfortunately, foreigners who have Santoianni from Italy, who now lives in over there, but we never eat horse meat,” and Bulgarians among the new owners of Kras, where old houses in need of re- immediately upon their arrival that the bought real estate in Slovenia, frequently the village of Dutovlje, but is still not able she said proudly. of real estate in Slovenia. The majority furbishment once sold for between EUR cost of living in Slovenia is lower than come across bureaucratic obstacles they to speak any Slovenian, and with English- of owners from non-EU countries are 20,000 and EUR 150,000, while houses in other EU countries. They still claim find unfathomable, and also meet neigh- man Brendan Ruff, who is really doing “I was looking for a country to live in Americans, who are followed by Croa- or even apartments by the sea would reach this today. Real estate brokers and oth- bours who are always friendly at first, but his best, as he says, to speak the “hardest – on condition that it was not England. tians, Swiss, Australians, Canadians and much higher prices. Property is still sold ers report that foreigners find Slovenia soon become unfriendly, or other people language in the world”. And I’ve found it. It’s Slovenia, which is

42 43 seven years. He had already cruised across CULTURAL Europe many times with buses. “This is TRAILS how I got to know Slovenia, and when I saw that it is beautiful and peaceful, I de- cided that I would not live in Trieste any more, but here in your country,” he said. He bought an old house on the outskirts Jože Prešeren, photo: Darinka Mladenovič Goričko is a special world. It is part of Dutovlje in 2002 through the Ruj real of Prekmurje, the northernmost estate agency in Sežana, for 140,000 euros - the plot around the house cost 40,000 part of Slovenia, near the border euros, while the reconstruction cost him with Austria and Hungary, but still a total of 210,000 euros. “You know, for some experts say that everything this money I would be able to buy a mod- here is different from Prekmurje. est apartment at the most in Trieste, while Goričko Well, when on a visit, we soon find here I have a house and a garden. The truth is that it’s still not completely recon- that this represents the true Prek- structed, and the ground around it is still landscape park murje for visitors, despite some pe- the centre of Europe, as far as I’m con- who had accepted us warmly at first, now turned up, but I’m happy. A neighbour, culiarities of the local dialect. Until cerned,” said Brendan. “It’s only that Slo- almost have a hostile attitude towards us car mechanic Gec, really helped me a lot the end of World War I Goričko, venian is a very complicated language for and are giving us trouble, which is why to start the reconstruction. He helped me as development like other parts of Prekmurje, had me. Take, for example, our word cook, we frequently see a lawyer, who is not get the water connected and gave me ce- been under Hungarian rule for which, as simple as it is, has several mean- exactly cheap. I’ve just returned from the ment, so everything ran very smoothly. ings, while you have plenty of expressions lawyer’s office. The kind Mister Suša from We managed to reconstruct the first part initiative many centuries, hence the diversity for everything related to cooking. (Well, the Ruj agency, who made the purchase of in just three months, but in the follow- in customs, dialect and cooking. this also holds true the other way around, this house possible, is also helping us sort ing two months, before the roof was up, Many members of the Hungarian when one Slovenian word can be translat- these things out.” Before the purchase, a craftsman started giving me trouble. minority live here, and many of the ed with a whole series of English words). the pair also consulted Frances Sargent, He turned out to be, as we Italians say, residents are Lutherans. “The price of the house was attractive, it the director of a British company which a furbo .” cost only 60,000 pounds; but there were markets real estate in Slovenia. “She was lots of things that needed refurbishment,” Goričko is a hilly region - hence the name: hills in Slovenia before, and it was she who In this almost completely renovated said this intelligent man, adding half-jok- are called gorice by the local residents. Millions of gave me the first information about the house, painted yellow, Leonardo lives ingly that he was an inventor by profes- years ago, these hills sprang from the bottom of Slovenian real estate market,” said Bren- with his Russian wife Lilija, and his 7- the Pannonian Sea, which disappeared long ago, sion, while in fact he is an excellent com- year-old son Francesco. »When we came puter programmer, with a good income. dan, who is still in friendly contact with and then rose. This is the world between Mura Ms Sargent. here, he did not know a word of Slove- and Raba rivers, which continues to the Austrian nian, and now he is already very good at The saviour of a wounded dog region of Grabenland and to Hungarian Örseg it. It is largely thanks to the excellent local and Göcsej to the east. The largest river in Goričko They have a little girl, called Inka. They A man from an idyllic house elementary school.” is Ledava with its numerous tributaries. People also have a dog, a shorthaired pointer, in Dutovlje have been living here for ages and have preserved who has lost a leg. How did this hap- Leonardo Santoianni has been a profes- Which municipalities, according to data many particularities due to the remoteness from pen? “There was a severe traffic accident sional bus driver for twenty-five years, and from Slovenian tax offices, were the most larger city centres. But hills are not that remains in which the animal was injured so badly, has also been driving a Pullman for the last attractive for foreigners buying property of the Pannonian Sea - numerous fossilised shells, that its owner, some innkeeper and hunt- between 2004 and this April? fish or plants can still be found. Today, Goričko is er from Brezovica, near Ljubljana, wanted • Britons: 1,153 properties, mainly in the to get rid if it right away. And because I municipalities of Murska Sobota (286) a region of ridges and shallow valleys (called grabe work as a vet, I took this poor creature and Kranj (263) here) between them, with many streams. The ma- under my wing and saved it.” • Italians: 815 properties, mainly in the jority of settlements were built on the sunny sides municipalities of Koper (492) of the hills; there are 11 municipalities with 91 We were interested in whether they had, and Nova Gorica (142) villages and 25,000 inhabitants, but no major re- or have, any difficulties with paperwork • Austrians: 332 properties, mainly in the gional centre, so mainly as the headquarters of the because of the notorious Slovenian bu- municipalities of Murska Sobota (139) landscape park, this function was taken over by and Maribor (64) reaucracy. Brendan said that many things Grad, and the region is economically connected 266 properties, mainly in the in this respect were rather more compli- • Germans: notably with Murska Sobota. There are many for- municipalities of Murska Sobota (58) ests, meadows and other agricultural lands here, cated than in England. “Take driveways and Koper (36) for example. In the UK, when a dispute but generally, the soil is rather infertile. The local • Irish: 91 properties, mainly in the people produce excellent fruit and the agricultural breaks out, the police come right away municipalities of Murska Sobota (38) and settle the matter effectively. And here and Celje (9) speciality of the region is pumpkin, from which the noted pumpkin seed oil is extracted. Needless you have unbelievable complications that • French: 66 properties, mainly in the seem like they will never end. This is par- municipalities of Nova Gorica (14) to say that the local people cannot imagine living ticularly so because some neighbours, and Koper (10) without home-made pumpkin oil.

44 45 associated with ecotourism. Today, the is Prekmurska gibanica. The farmhouse first results of efforts of the management’s offers lodging, but many guest arrive with The landing of Landscape efforts are already visible, since farmers mobile homes. The owners know a lot receive higher subsidies, and they produce about this kind of travel, as it was a subject a stratospher- Park of Three fruit and vegetable for the requirements Sedej wrote a lot about as a journalist. of tourism. There is a growing number of Goričko offers visitors many tourist routes ic balloon - Countries tourist farms within the Park, with more through the beautiful landscape - and the the event of At the initiative of numerous people than a hundred tourist beds in total. cultural monuments, which most people from Goričko, and after several years One of these is the newly established visits, include the castle in Grad, the St. the century of preparation, in 2003 the Slovenian Croat’s Farmhouse, managed by Verica Nicholas Rotunda in Selo and the Church Government established the protected area Bokan, a local resident, and the former of the Ascension in Bogojina, which was A few years ago, the national Slovenian of the Landscape Park in Goričko; some journalist Andrej Sedej - who later founded in the 14th century and between television channel broadcast their film months later, Goričko Landscape Park got involved in catering near Kranjska 1925-27 it was renovated in an original of a stratospheric balloon landing in the Public Institute was established. Today, gora, and moved recently to his wife’s style by the most famous Slovenian lonely village of Ženavlje in Goričko. In the Landscape Park enables the people of former home in Rogaševci in Goričko. architect, Jože Plečnik. However, there the middle of August 1934, an unusual Castle with this border region of Slovenia to achieve Excellent Prekmurje culinary specialties are many interesting points visitors can balloon landed in a field. The event pro- quicker economic development while can be ordered here- the most famous discover on their Goričko wanderings. voked great interest among the inhabit- 365 rooms protecting and preserving their natural ants and they spoke of it for decades after environment, as well as the cultural and - which should mean, according to the Until 1952, the place now called Grad historical heritage of the region. Goričko local people, nothing good. They helped was called Gornja Lendava; now it has Park is geographically part of the Goričko- in the landing of the balloon, since the around 800 inhabitants and is consid- Raab-Örség Natural Park of the Three unusual travellers dropped ropes that ered one of the larger settlements in Countries, which encompasses parts of had to be pulled down. The craft landed Goričko. This place is, of course, closely Slovenia, Austria and Hungary. safely and it was soon discovered that the associated with the nearby castle, simply The path to establishing the natural travellers were French-speaking Belgian called Castle (Grad). The castle building landscape park of the three countries was scientists who had taken off from a Bel- was first mentioned in 1208. It survived not easy. The idea was born in 1994, and gian airport that morning in the pres- many owners, but it was robbed at the the Austrians were the first to realise it, ence of several thousand curious people. end of World War II, and left in decay for establishing their Raab Park in 1999; A local who had lived for several years in many years. Grad is considered the larg- the Hungarians joined two years later. France led the discussions with them in est feudal building in Slovenia. Some still The common goal of the founders of French. This is how the village of Ženavlje say that there used to be 365 rooms, one the cross-border landscape park was in Goričko entered history in an unusual for each day of the year. Since renovations primarily to preserve the environment way, as it was the centre of attention of supported by the European Union began and historical and cultural heritage in the European scientists, notably stratosphere a few years ago, it was established that protected areas. The Austrians decided to researchers, for several days. It is interest- there are 311 rooms, of which 47 have emphasise the development of tourism ing that the television film showing the now been renovated. In these, six muse- and some production services in the Park; event was entitled The Day Europe Fell um workrooms of traditional handicraft the Hungarians declared their protected on Our Heads. The significance of this were arranged, a Prekmurje črna kuhinja area a National Park and deal primarily event for Goričko is proven by the fact (literally black kitchen, an old rural type with the preservation and breeding of that a monument was erected at the land- of kitchen), a wine cellar with Prekmurje autochthonous species of horses and cattle. ing site, and the community of Gornji wines, two laboratories for biology classes, In Goričko, in compliance with local Petrovci, to which Ženavlje village now a smaller conference hall, an office, two needs, plans were designed to preserve belongs, proclaimed this date a municipal apartments, a knights’ hall for presenta- natural and cultural heritage and at the holiday. tions and a wedding hall. The headquar- same time develop handicraft and cuisine, ters of Goričko Landscape Park are also small businesses and organic farming in the castle. The medieval structure is covered by nu- merous Renaissance and Baroque recon- structions: picturesque inner courtyard is encompassed by arcades on brick col- umns, while the bell tower of the castle chapel is Baroque. Remnants of former Additional information: castle equipment are still stored in the TIC Goričko Landscape Park, Grad 191 chapel. The castle park with its rare tree tel.: 02 551 88 60 species is also worth seeing. www.park-goricko.org

46 47