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Week 3 the Woollen & Worsted Industries to 1780
Week 3 Dr Frances Richardson frances.richardson@conted. The woollen & ox.ac.uk https://open.conted.ox.ac.uk /series/manufactures- worsted industries industrial-revolution to 1780 Week 2 takeaways • Proto-industrialization theories give us some useful concepts for studying specific pre-factory manufacturing industries • More a framework than a predictive model • Artisan systems did not necessarily develop into putting-out systems • Proto-industry contained the seeds of its own demise • Although factory industrialization often grew out of proto-industry in the same area, some areas de-industrialized and industry spread to new areas • Other factors needed to explain changes, including marketing, industrial relations, and local politics Week 3 outline • Processes in woollen and worsted hand manufacture • Outline history – changing fashions, home demand and exports Wool comber • Organization of the industry in the West Country, Norwich and Yorkshire • How organisation and marketing affected success • How well different regions responded to changing fashion and demand Woollen cloth • Used carded, short-staple wool • Traditional from medieval period, predominated in Tudor exports • Types of cloth - broadcloth, kersey (lighter, less heavily fulled) • Export cloth high and medium quality – limited demand growth • Wool was sorted, willeyed, carded, spun, woven, fulled, finished – could involve raising nap, shearing, pressing, dyeing Broadcloth suit, 1705, VAM Worsted • Used combed, long-staple wool Lincoln longwool sheep • More suited to the Saxony -
Textiles for Dress 1800-1920
Draft version only: not the publisher’s typeset P.A. Sykas: Textiles for dress 1800-1920 Textile fabrics are conceived by the manufacturer in terms of their material composition and processes of production, but perceived by the consumer firstly in terms of appearance and handle. Both are deeply involved in the economic and cultural issues behind the wearing of cloth: cost, quality, meaning. We must look from these several perspectives in order to understand the drivers behind the introduction of fabrics to the market, and the collective response to them in the form of fashion. A major preoccupation during our time frame was novelty. On the supply side, novelty gave a competitive edge, stimulated fashion change and accelerated the cycle of consumption. On the demand side, novelty provided pleasure, a way to get noticed, and new social signifiers. But novelty can act in contradictory ways: as an instrument for sustaining a fashion elite by facilitating costly style changes, and as an agent for breaking down fashion barriers by making elite modes more affordable. It can drive fashion both by promoting new looks, and later by acting to make those looks outmoded. During the long nineteenth century, the desire for novelty was supported by the widely accepted philosophical view of progress: that new also implied improved or more advanced, hence that novelty was a reflection of modernity. This chapter examines textiles for dress from 1800 to 1920, a period that completed the changeover from hand-craft to machine production, and through Europe’s imperial ambitions, saw the reversal of East/West trading patterns. -
Hawley Letter
March 27, 1826 From Rufus F. Hawley in Northington [Avon] To his brother Timothy Hawley, Jefferson, Ohio BACKGROUND This letter mentions the Rev. Rufus Hawley journals, showcased in Catch’d on Fire: The Journals of Rufus Hawley, by Nora Howard. Settling the estate of their father, Rev. Rufus Hawley and Inventory. Troubles with the construction of the Farmington Canal, which goes by the Hawley house. Envelope: Northington March 28th Free Timothy R. Hawley Esqr Post Master Jefferson Astabula County Ohio Northington March 27th 1826 Dear Brother I received yours of the 6th instant this p.m. – and shall endeavour to answer it this evening as I have engagements for tomorrow & tomorrow [evening?] & have but little leasure [sic] to write – How you could be disappointed in not receiving a copy of the will I cannot imagine as you did not mention it in your first letter & as to claims &c I did send all the information then in my possession – I shall always be disposed to send you all the information on the subject in my power – I cannot however at this time send you a Copy of the Will as that was lodged in the office of Probate at the time it was prov’d & I have not taken a copy – I will however take a copy & send you the first opportunity. I can in few words however give you the substance of it after mentioning what he gave Mother. He then gave me the building, and then divided the remainder equally among us – As to claims I can say but little more at present than I said before. -
Maine Women and Fashion, 1790-1840
Maine History Volume 31 Number 1 My Best Wearing Apparel Maine Article 3 Women and Fashion, 1800-1840 3-1-1991 "So Monstrous Smart" : Maine Women and Fashion, 1790-1840 Kerry A. O'Brien York Institute Museum Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu/mainehistoryjournal Part of the Cultural History Commons, Fashion Design Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, United States History Commons, and the Women's History Commons Recommended Citation O'Brien, Kerry A.. ""So Monstrous Smart" : Maine Women and Fashion, 1790-1840." Maine History 31, 1 (1991): 12-43. https://digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu/mainehistoryjournal/vol31/iss1/3 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by DigitalCommons@UMaine. It has been accepted for inclusion in Maine History by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@UMaine. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Figure 3. N umber 4. 12 “So M onstrous S mart” (& ?£ ?£ ?$- ?£ ?& ?£ ^ ^ ^ “So Monstrous Smart”: Maine Women and Fashion, 1790 -1840 Kerry A. O'Brien When she died in 1836, Abigail Emerson of York, Maine, left her daughter, Clarissa, an intimate legacy: her clothing. In her will Mrs. Emerson itemized her “Best Wearing Apparel” : shimmies and drawers, caps, calash, stockings, long cotton shirt, Merino Shawl, Black lace veil, Bombazine gown, Silk Pelise, M uff and Tippet Clarissas inheritance included a dress of imported wool and silk twill, a soft wool shawl, a stylish veil, and a variety of caps, probably of thin white muslin. Outerwear also figured in Abigail Emerson s “best ap parel.” A silk coat-dress called a pelisse could have been worn as an outer garment. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. -
Waterford Historical Society Newsbill
Waterford Historical Society Newsbill Volume 14, Number 2 April-May 2009 Editor Sally Strait 248-683-2697 President’s Notes [email protected] Well folks, spring may have actually sprung. I know this because some of the Calendar snow piles have finally melted at Fish Hatchery Park! April-May Board Every Wednesday 10:30-2:00 We had a visit from the Holly Historical Society a few weeks ago and they were President surprised that we have workdays every Sally Strait 248-683-2697 April 1 Wednesday. I said we almost need an- Log Cabin Day Mtg 1:00HH other day we are so busy! (No, don’t Vice President worry, we are not doing that, right now.) Newsletter Mailing Dorothy White 248-623-0937 We are busy. But we sure have a lot of fun while we work. Recording Secretary April 15 Start thinking ahead to Log Cabin Days Dorothy Webber 248-666-4907 Board Meeting 1:00 HH and how you can help. We need workers before, during and after. Bring us your Corresponding Secretary White Elephants and then help us mark Betty Seymour 248-666-4265 April 29 them. Do a little dusting in one of the Pot Luck Noon buildings. Get ready to bake for the bake Treasurer sale. There is much to do. Betty Horn 248-673-9708 May 6 Enjoy the nice Bookkeeper weather and I hope Log Cabin Day Mtg 1:00HH Cheryl Stoutenburg 248-623-0414 to see all of you soon. Members At Large May20 Sally Strait Bob Allen 248-623-0463 Board Meeting 1:00 HH Harvey Hedlund 248-622-9509 Merrill Paine 248-673-0615 Fashion Show May 21 The 8th annual fashion show was once Annual Meeting again a sold out show and a huge suc- cess. -
United States National Museum
Q 11 U563 CRLSSI »R!ELl2^i NS \ Alcjxjvncli Grwsl'•{f^^ A Fl F O R D ^^; ^tl:>^ f''^. ^^^^. -^V. P C \ XJ K T p Y •'^,^ m. Ikfl "<. ^^ SMITHSOMAX IXSTITLTION UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM BULLLllX 253 WASHINGTON. DC. 1968 ^^hc (ailrunil HistorN of MarlborouLih, Mrsiinia An Archeological aiul Historical Investigation of the Port Town for Staffonl Count\ aiul the Phmtation of John Mercer, Including Data Supplied by Frank M. Setzler and Oscar H. Darter C.. \i \ l.(.()l.\l W \ I k I \.s C I K \H>k »)K C'ULTl I .1 Ill.sIOK^ MlSKI M OK IIlsTokN- \M) IK HN()I.t)C;Y SMH H>c).\l.\\ l\Mlll 1U)\ il<l ^^ . i SMI I ii^oM.w iN^ini ri<>\ • w .\>iii\(. ION. iy( . Piibluulivns of the United States Mitia/tal Museum The scholarly and scientific publications of the L'nited States National Museum include two series, J'roteedings of the United Slates Niitioiiat Museum and United States Xational Museum Bulletin. In these series, the Museum publishes urininal articles and monographs dealing with the collections and work of its constituent museums—The Museum of Natural History and the Museimi of History and Technolog)—setting forth newly accjuired facts in the fields of anthropology, biology, history, geology, and technology. Copies of each publication are distributed to libraries, to cultiu-al and scientific organizations, and to specialists and others interested in the different subjects. 1 he Proceedings, begiui in 1878, are intended for the publication, in separate form, of shorter jjapers from the Museum of Natural History. -
Transcription Instructions
Project Summary: William Ramsay was a merchant and civic official who lobbied with the Virginia General Assembly to establish the town of Alexandria, VA. The Ramsay store sold a huge variety of goods: for home (cooking and cleaning, sewing furnishings and clothes), for building and agriculture (tools and supplies), for personal use (like combs or jewelry), for reading and writing (books, paper and supplies), as well as grocery items (dry goods, spices, and beverages). The products listed in the database reflect a globalized consumer market with items from across Europe, India, China, the West Indies, and the Caribbean. The ledger, housed at the Smithsonian archive, begins when the store was founded in 1753 and continues through 1756. Ramsay used double entry accounting, where daily sales were recorded in a daybook then debts were copied into the ledger. The ledger, therefore, records the dated itemized purchases where merchants extended credit (debits) on the left with customer payments (credits) listed on the facing page. Since the daybook does not survive, we do not have complete information on cash sales and sadly cannot fully understand some financial issues, even foot traffic in the store. The ledger does, however, reflect a wide range of purchases by a culturally diverse range of customers. Spreadsheet: This project is being transcribed into a spreadsheet in order to allow more functional ability to search and categorize the information for interpretation. To facilitate such analysis, data needs to be entered in a slightly more systematized way than a straight transcription. Each line on the spreadsheet reflects a line of sales or payments. -
Asement 100 Specials" for 3 Datjj
TITE MORNING OREGONTAIT. WEDNESDAY, NOVE3IBEK 4, 1914. 11 APPLE LIGHTHOUSE Green Trading Stamps Will Be Given With All Charge Accounts if Paid in Full on or Before 10th of Each Month Visit the Premium Parlors TOYLAND on the Bring to See New Toys, Dolls, Games, Wheel Goods, Etc., Etc. ALL ARE WELCOME WIHS FIRST PRIZE Fourth Floor the Children the Interesting Home J ournal Patterns Save $?H. Green Stamps Mrs. King, pattern ex- Secure Valuable Premiums Basement ! pert, is with us dem- Display of North Pacific Dis- onstrating' the catting Olds, Worttnam $ King Now is the time to make your and handling of pat- dimes and dollars do their full Untrirnmed tributors Judged as Best terns and introducing Reliable Merchandise Reliable Methods 1iit7 an1 rrnt rrtnr Ymfla cnfr.ci 'ma more thoroughly our FREE by saving S. & H. L Among Fruit Designs. advance weekly pat- Pacific Phone Marshall 4800 Home Phone A 6231 Green Tradinsr Stamps! Ask tern service. Main FL for book with 10 stamps free. 4th floor. HATS Satin-Finis- HOOD RIVER IS SECOND French h u Felts and Scotch asement 100 Specials" for 3 Datjj Felts at Judges Likely to Complete Scrutiny of Manufacturers' and Land Extraordinary Saving Opportunities for Today, Tomorrow and Friday Products' Show Today Day's 35c Fancy Ribbons. 25c Yd. $15 to $22.50 Coats at $9.98 75c Bungalow Aprons, 49c $5 Vacuum Cleaner, $2.98 J Men's $1.25, $2 Pants 98c Pr. Programme Is Varied. 5-i- n. 29c Beautiful fancy ribbon, all Continuation of our marvelous Women's excellent Dress Aprons Golden Rod band carpet cleaner These are good sturdy Pants for Easement The Millinery Sec- pure silk large asst. -
DATS Spring Journal
DATS Dress and Textile Specialists Spring Journal April 2010 Contents Page Committee 2 DATS Conference & Papers 2009 4 News and Events 24 Exhibitions 27 New Books 36 Front cover images: Hat by Philip Treacy on display in Flock Together - Ruffled Feathers , at Lotherton Hall, Leeds, (courtesy Leeds Costume Collection) Wedding dress worn in the film, Howard’s End, on display in Marriage in the Movies at the National Museum of Costume, Scotland, (courtesy Cosprop) 1 DATS Committee Chair Zelina Garland Curatorial Services Manager Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery Chamberlain Square Birmingham B3 3DH Tel: 0121 303 2834 e-mail: [email protected] Secretary Currently vacant Treasurer Christine Stevens e-mail [email protected] Editor Alex Ward Assistant Keeper Art and Industrial Division National Museum of Ireland Collins Barracks Dublin 7, Ireland Tel: 00 353 1 6486469 e-mail: [email protected] Membership Secretary Jennifer Mckellar Assistant Registrar Manchester Art Gallery Mosley Street Manchester M2 3JL Tel: 0161 235 8829 e-mail: [email protected] Web Editor Kate Reeder Social History Curator Beamish North of England Open Air Museum Beamish Co. Durham DH9 0RG Tel: 0191 370 4009 e-mail: [email protected] SSN Officer Jenny Lister Curator, 19th Century Textiles and Fashion Department of Furniture, Textiles and Fashion Victoria & Albert Museum South Kensington London SW7 2RL Tel: 020 7942 2665 e-mail: [email protected] Conservation Janet Wood Representative Conservation and Collections Care Apt 37 -
Dressmakers Dictionary
S 1309 >py 1 'r/ce Co/r/^s- \ aOPYRIOMTEB BY J. W. GODDARD Au SONS (incohporatks) • a-S4-»« BLCCCKER ST., NEW YORK Dressmakers Dictionary PRICE TWENTY-FIVE CENTS (^, ^ui'^irvw^xv O Copyrighted, 1916, by J. W. GODDARD & SONS (Incorporated) 92-94-96 BLEECKER ST., NEW YORK Acknowledging the Dress- makers' Chart in the center of this booklet, from the Jno. J. Mitchell Co., Pub- lishers, and valuable assist- ance from the Dry Goods Economist. rs/3o9 SEP 19 1916 ©CI.A437740 Compiled by HOMER S. CURTIS 1916 With Our Compliments ^^^^^HE purpose of this little m C"*\ booklet is not to bore you ^L J with things you already ^^i^^ know, but rather to sup- ply you with information that may prove useful and interesting. A careful perusal cannot fail to aid you in tasteful and harmonious selection of fabrics for your suits and gowns, possibly strengthening your judgment and, perhaps, point- ing the way to more beautiful and finer wardrobes, without an increased expenditure. That you will find it helpful is the wish of the makers of Witchiex Is a Universal Linmg Fabric Terms A List, Giving the Meaning of the Terms in Everyday Use at Dress Goods and Silk Counters. Agra Gauze—Strong, transparent silk fabric of a gauzy texture. ^^ Agaric—^A cotton fabric of loop yam construction, having a surface somewhat similar to a fine Turkish toweling. Armoisine—Also spelled "Armozeen" and "Armo- zine." In the 18th century and earlier this fabric was used in both men's and women's wear. It was of a taffeta or plain silk texture. -
London
Store will be open Check and your wraps until 10 o'clock Satur- furs at the Refund Desk day, Monday, Tuesday in the basement. and _ Wednesday nights. □_1 A | RAIN '-— nag Mill ■rmtlgarr rl . 11 — t— Ml .■III COAT and Best On Your Waste No Time-Bamberger's Will Serve You Quickest Back Is are unexcelled. The Only four more days! No time to waste a moment! Make the most of the few remaining shopping hours by coming to the store whose facilities to serve you the Greater Stores inc° As Mach broad straight aisles of the Bamberger store, the large, roomy elevators, the fast, safely moving stairways and a superior delivery service are only a few points of s stands out pre- parabie Christmas service. Add to this the satisfaction of choosing from the BEST STOCKS OF HOLIDAY MERCHANDISE ever shown in Newark, and Bamberger ,A Neces= eminently as the IDEAL CHRISTMAS STORE. As Entire Stock sity Gift for Girls Are Rnb= Clothing Sale Ends Saturday Apparel Boys’ Hats We are selling more gift apparel for girls and misses bers On than ever before in the history of the store. The tendency One more day of the men’s clothing at Half towards making practical gifts, coupled with matchless gifts, sale! The holiday event will posi- is Yonr big the reason. Suggestions: Not a hat is reserved—take at come to a close Saturday night hat tively Girls’ New Dresses, 3.00 to 5.00—A wonderful collection your choice of any boys’ the stroke of 10. Don’t at Feet delay—don’t of dresses in exclusive models and patterns.