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Fabric ESSENTIALS
Fabric ESSENTIALS COTTON-RICH POPLIN POLY-WOOL NYLON TASLON • Moisture-wicking – dries quickly • Uniform shirts of 67% cotton/33%polyester • Easy-care, wrinkle-resistant, and durable • Antimicrobial – resists bacteria, fights odor • Comfort with easy machine-wash care • Wool makes fabric more substantial and • Durable, lightweight, easy-care fabric • Khaki and navy shirts offer UPF 40+ comfortable for year ’round use sun-protective rating • Excellent UPF 40+ sun-protective rating MICRO POLY • Khaki shirts and uniform-green pants ® in lightweight, polyester microfiber SUPPLEX NYLON COTTON-RICH CANVAS • Aegis™ antimicrobial technology • Moisture management • Extra-durable and stain-resistant— • Superior moisture control • Lightweight and quick-drying ideal for active Scouts • Excellent UPF 40+ sun-protective rating • Excellent UPF 50+ sun-protective rating • Excellent UPF 40+ sun-protective rating The Skin Cancer Moisture Management (Wicking) A specially Foundation Seal of engineered, high-performance fabric in which the inner layer Recommendation draws moisture away from the body to the outer layer where To earn this distinguished it quickly evaporates, keeping you cooler in hot weather and seal, a product must warmer in cold. be proven to aid in the prevention of sun-induced Advanced antimicrobial fabric treatment damage to the skin, and Commonly used to fight bacteria, this treatment features a must earn a UPF (Ultraviolet positively charged polymer that bonds molecularly to the fabric Protection Factor) of 30 to fight the growth of bacteria and fungi, reduce odors, and or above. In keeping with protect against stains and deterioration. Also helps to wick safety as the top priority for away moisture so fabric dries quickly and keeps Scouts drier. -
Week 3 the Woollen & Worsted Industries to 1780
Week 3 Dr Frances Richardson frances.richardson@conted. The woollen & ox.ac.uk https://open.conted.ox.ac.uk /series/manufactures- worsted industries industrial-revolution to 1780 Week 2 takeaways • Proto-industrialization theories give us some useful concepts for studying specific pre-factory manufacturing industries • More a framework than a predictive model • Artisan systems did not necessarily develop into putting-out systems • Proto-industry contained the seeds of its own demise • Although factory industrialization often grew out of proto-industry in the same area, some areas de-industrialized and industry spread to new areas • Other factors needed to explain changes, including marketing, industrial relations, and local politics Week 3 outline • Processes in woollen and worsted hand manufacture • Outline history – changing fashions, home demand and exports Wool comber • Organization of the industry in the West Country, Norwich and Yorkshire • How organisation and marketing affected success • How well different regions responded to changing fashion and demand Woollen cloth • Used carded, short-staple wool • Traditional from medieval period, predominated in Tudor exports • Types of cloth - broadcloth, kersey (lighter, less heavily fulled) • Export cloth high and medium quality – limited demand growth • Wool was sorted, willeyed, carded, spun, woven, fulled, finished – could involve raising nap, shearing, pressing, dyeing Broadcloth suit, 1705, VAM Worsted • Used combed, long-staple wool Lincoln longwool sheep • More suited to the Saxony -
Textiles for Dress 1800-1920
Draft version only: not the publisher’s typeset P.A. Sykas: Textiles for dress 1800-1920 Textile fabrics are conceived by the manufacturer in terms of their material composition and processes of production, but perceived by the consumer firstly in terms of appearance and handle. Both are deeply involved in the economic and cultural issues behind the wearing of cloth: cost, quality, meaning. We must look from these several perspectives in order to understand the drivers behind the introduction of fabrics to the market, and the collective response to them in the form of fashion. A major preoccupation during our time frame was novelty. On the supply side, novelty gave a competitive edge, stimulated fashion change and accelerated the cycle of consumption. On the demand side, novelty provided pleasure, a way to get noticed, and new social signifiers. But novelty can act in contradictory ways: as an instrument for sustaining a fashion elite by facilitating costly style changes, and as an agent for breaking down fashion barriers by making elite modes more affordable. It can drive fashion both by promoting new looks, and later by acting to make those looks outmoded. During the long nineteenth century, the desire for novelty was supported by the widely accepted philosophical view of progress: that new also implied improved or more advanced, hence that novelty was a reflection of modernity. This chapter examines textiles for dress from 1800 to 1920, a period that completed the changeover from hand-craft to machine production, and through Europe’s imperial ambitions, saw the reversal of East/West trading patterns. -
Materialising Cultures: West African Diasporan En- Gagement with African Print in Britain
Oboh, Ehinomen (2018)Materialising cultures: West African diasporan en- gagement with African print in Britain. Doctoral thesis (PhD), Manchester Metropolitan University. Downloaded from: http://e-space.mmu.ac.uk/622448/ Usage rights: Creative Commons: Attribution-Noncommercial-No Deriva- tive Works 4.0 Please cite the published version http://e-space.mmu.ac.uk Materialising Cultures: West African diasporan engagement with African print in Britain A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the Manchester Metropolitan University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy; Ehinomen Oboh Manchester School of Art Manchester Metropolitan University October 2018 Abstract This thesis addresses a gap in our knowledge about the shifting meanings and practices associated with dress as it moves into diasporic cultural surroundings. Specifically, it looks at West African diasporans living in Britain (WADIB) and their engagements with African print. It does so by gathering stories of WADIB clothing experiences, alongside images of how they acquire, make, wear and keep their clothes. Academic research until recently has focused on dress in Africa, but largely ignored the contemporary use of African prints among diasporan communities. By moving beyond the African setting into a diaspora setting, this research expands our understanding of how meaning in dress is shaped, re-shaped, and more generally, the interrelationship of people and clothes, thus, contributing towards scholarship on contemporary dress in changing cultural contexts. This research also adds the African dress perspective to studies of transnational lives from the standpoint of other diasporans. This study reveals African print as largely a special occasion dress within the British diaspora unlike how it is used on the African continent. -
FABRICS/ DYING Dictionary
FABRICS/ DYING dictionary ACRYLIC BABYCORD Acrylic fabric is a manufactured fiber with a soft wool-like feel and Babycord is a ribcord fabric with a very small and thin rib line. The an uneven finish. It is used widely in knits as the fabric has the same fabric is often lighter and softer than normal or corduroy fabric. It is cozy look as wool. Acrylic fabric is favored for a variety of reasons very soft and comfortable, and is often made in a stretch quality. it is warm, quite soft, holds color well, is both stain and wrinkle resistant and it doesn’t itch. These qualities make acrylic a great BLEND substitute for wool. A blend fabric or yarn is made up of more than one fibre. In the yarn, two or more different types of fibres are used to form the yarn. ALPACA Blends are used to create a more comfortable fabric with a softer Alpaca wool comes from a South American animal that roams the feel. A good example is a cotton/wool blend; the mixture of cotton mountain slopes of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Chile. The fleece and wool will prevent the fabric from being excessively warm and from an alpaca is similar to wool or mohair, but is softer, silkier, and will make the fabric softer to the skin. warmer. Because alpaca wool takes much longer to grow it is often more expensive and exclusive. However, garments made from this BOUCLE fabric are stronger and more comfortable. The term boucle is derived from the French word boucle, which literally means “to curl”. -
The Silk Industry in Dublin by John Joseph Webb in VI.B.8
GENETIC JOYCE STUDIES – Issue 19 (Spring 2019) The Silk Industry in Dublin by John Joseph Webb in VI.B.8 Ian MacArthur and Viviana-Mirela Braslasu Industrial Dublin Since 1698 & The Silk Industry in Dublin - Two Essays by J. J. Webb, published in 1913, can be found online1. The major question as to whether this was Joyce’s source is a difficult one and may never be resolved unless an alternative is found. It seems possible, from the sparing use that Joyce made of J. J. Webb’s book (he only used material from the second essay), that it may be just the source of his source. Perhaps Joyce found an abstract or digest version published later in a magazine or elsewhere. Still, there is an exact correspondence between the notebook entries below, the order recorded, and the text of the above essay. Dublin was at one time famous for its silk industry which had been transplanted from France by Huguenots in the seventeenth century. From a historic point of view, this new enterprise had a major impact on the city itself and on the lives of the people living there. It also brought about a change in costume when silk and poplin became the main fabrics for clothes and ties. Such an important step in the development of the city and in the evolution of the Irish dress could not have been overlooked by Joyce. For the early drafts of Anna Livia Plurabelle, Joyce read and harvested new material related to Dublin’s former booming industry. Entries such as ‘creases of silk’ (JJA 48:064), ‘poplin ties’ (JJA 48:070) or ‘every warp’ and ‘weaver’s year’ (JJA 48:094) suggest Joyce’s interest in the subject. -
Cloth Mask Breathability and Filtration Efficiency Technical Report 1
N95Decon Research Document. Not Peer Reviewed. Version 1.0, 8/6/2020 Cloth Mask Breathability and Filtration Efficiency Technical Report 1. Executive Summary The present scientific evidence indicates that mask-wearing by the public is an effective measure for reducing transmission of SARS-CoV-2 due to a combination of droplet (>5 um) and aerosol protection (<5 um). Given that many varieties of cloth mask are effective at reducing transmission via large droplets, any mask is better than no mask. Mask use should be strongly encouraged to be used in conjunction with measures such as physical distancing. This report focuses primarily on the material considerations for designing cloth masks which protect against transmission via smaller droplets and aerosols in addition to protecting against transmission via larger droplets. Better understanding the respective risks of aerosol transmission compared to large droplet transmission for SARS-CoV-2 is an area of developing study. In this report, we compare studies of different materials that could be used to make homemade masks, with the goal of (1) summarizing both qualitative findings for what materials may provide a greater degree of aerosol protection for homemade masks and (2) identifying gaps in the scientific literature for future study. We consider all literature that evaluated the breathability and filtration efficiency of materials that could be used for homemade masks. It should be noted that the studies reviewed only evaluated the material and did not study leakage that can occur at the side of the mask once it is on a person’s face. Mask fit is a critical element in the overall effectiveness of any mask and masks should be designed to minimize leakage around the sides and by the nose. -
Hawley Letter
March 27, 1826 From Rufus F. Hawley in Northington [Avon] To his brother Timothy Hawley, Jefferson, Ohio BACKGROUND This letter mentions the Rev. Rufus Hawley journals, showcased in Catch’d on Fire: The Journals of Rufus Hawley, by Nora Howard. Settling the estate of their father, Rev. Rufus Hawley and Inventory. Troubles with the construction of the Farmington Canal, which goes by the Hawley house. Envelope: Northington March 28th Free Timothy R. Hawley Esqr Post Master Jefferson Astabula County Ohio Northington March 27th 1826 Dear Brother I received yours of the 6th instant this p.m. – and shall endeavour to answer it this evening as I have engagements for tomorrow & tomorrow [evening?] & have but little leasure [sic] to write – How you could be disappointed in not receiving a copy of the will I cannot imagine as you did not mention it in your first letter & as to claims &c I did send all the information then in my possession – I shall always be disposed to send you all the information on the subject in my power – I cannot however at this time send you a Copy of the Will as that was lodged in the office of Probate at the time it was prov’d & I have not taken a copy – I will however take a copy & send you the first opportunity. I can in few words however give you the substance of it after mentioning what he gave Mother. He then gave me the building, and then divided the remainder equally among us – As to claims I can say but little more at present than I said before. -
Fabric Supplier List
FABRIC SUPPLIER LIST CANADA Kendor Textiles Ltd 1260 Cliveden Ave Delta BC V3M 6Y1 Canada 604.434.3233 [email protected] www.kendortextiles.com Fabrics Available: Fabric supplier. Eco-friendly. Organic. Knits: solids, prints, yarn dyes and warp. Wovens: solids and yarn dyes. End Use: activewear, bottomweights, medical, lingerie, childrenswear, swimwear, rainwear, skiwear and uniform. Natural & eco items include cottons, bamboo's, modals, linens, hemps, organic cottons & organic linens. Technical items include waterproof/breathable soft shells, antibacteric & wicking polyester & recycled polyesters. Is a proud representative of the British Millerain line of waxed cottons and wools, and are able to provide custom souring. Minimums: Carries stock. In-stock minimum: 5 yards/color. Minimum order for production: 10 yards/color. Gordon Fabrics LTD #1135-6900 Graybar Rd. Richmond BC Canada 604.275.2672 [email protected] Fabrics Available: Fabric Supplier. Importer. Jobber. Carries stock. Knits & Wovens: solids, prints, yarn dyes and novelties. End Use: activewear, borromweights, eveningwear/bridal, medical, lingerie and childrenswear. Minimums: In stock minimum 1 yard. Minimum order for production varies. StartUp Fashion Supplier List 2016 – Page 1 CHINA Ecopel (HX) Co., Ltd. China +86 216.767.9686 www.ecopel.cn Fabrics Available: Fake fur and leather garments. End Uses: Childrenswear, Menswear, Other, Womenswear. Minimums: Min. order 50-100 m Hangzhou New Design Source Textile Co., Ltd. China +86 057.182.530528 Fabrics Available: Knits, Polyester/Man-Made, Prints. End Uses: Juniors Fashion, Menswear, Womenswear. Minimums: Min order 50 m. Nantong Haukai Textile Co., Ltd. China +86 513.890.78626 www.huakaitex.com Fabrics Available: Cotton, Linen. End Uses: Corporatewear/Suiting, Menswear, Womenswear. -
Maine Women and Fashion, 1790-1840
Maine History Volume 31 Number 1 My Best Wearing Apparel Maine Article 3 Women and Fashion, 1800-1840 3-1-1991 "So Monstrous Smart" : Maine Women and Fashion, 1790-1840 Kerry A. O'Brien York Institute Museum Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu/mainehistoryjournal Part of the Cultural History Commons, Fashion Design Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, United States History Commons, and the Women's History Commons Recommended Citation O'Brien, Kerry A.. ""So Monstrous Smart" : Maine Women and Fashion, 1790-1840." Maine History 31, 1 (1991): 12-43. https://digitalcommons.library.umaine.edu/mainehistoryjournal/vol31/iss1/3 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by DigitalCommons@UMaine. It has been accepted for inclusion in Maine History by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@UMaine. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Figure 3. N umber 4. 12 “So M onstrous S mart” (& ?£ ?£ ?$- ?£ ?& ?£ ^ ^ ^ “So Monstrous Smart”: Maine Women and Fashion, 1790 -1840 Kerry A. O'Brien When she died in 1836, Abigail Emerson of York, Maine, left her daughter, Clarissa, an intimate legacy: her clothing. In her will Mrs. Emerson itemized her “Best Wearing Apparel” : shimmies and drawers, caps, calash, stockings, long cotton shirt, Merino Shawl, Black lace veil, Bombazine gown, Silk Pelise, M uff and Tippet Clarissas inheritance included a dress of imported wool and silk twill, a soft wool shawl, a stylish veil, and a variety of caps, probably of thin white muslin. Outerwear also figured in Abigail Emerson s “best ap parel.” A silk coat-dress called a pelisse could have been worn as an outer garment. -
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750-1950 Identification
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A 1 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 This information pack has been produced to accompany two one-day workshops taught by Katy Wigley (Director, School of Textiles) and Mary Schoeser (Hon. V&A Senior Research Fellow), held at the V&A Clothworkers’ Centre on 19 April and 17 May 2018. The workshops are produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying woven textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the wider public and is also intended as a stand-alone guide for basic weave identification. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740–1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identifying Fibres and Fabrics Identifying Handmade Lace Front Cover: Lamy et Giraud, Brocaded silk cannetille (detail), 1878. This Lyonnais firm won a silver gilt medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle with a silk of this design, probably by Eugene Prelle, their chief designer. Its impact partly derives from the textures within the many-coloured brocaded areas and the markedly twilled cannetille ground. Courtesy Francesca Galloway. 2 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 Table of Contents Page 1. Introduction 4 2. Tips for Dating 4 3. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward.