Asian Journal of Home Science, Vol. 3 Issue 2 : 223-229 (December 2008 to May, 2009) Knowledge of rural women about general practices of care of clothing and its renovation MEENU SRIVASTAVA, PREETI UDAWAT AND SEEMA RANI Accepted : November, 2008 See end of the article for authors’ affiliations

Correspondence to: MEENU SRIVASTAVA ABSTRACT Department of Textiles Clothing is one of the basic needs of man along with food and shelter. A lot of resources are spent and Apparel Designing, on clothing purchase and better upkeep to get its long life. If proper attention is given about College of Home Science, appropriate clothing practices for care, renovation and garment construction ,not only the life of Maharana Pratap garment will be increased but it will also help in economizing the family budget. Keeping in view University of Agriculture this aspect the present investigation was carried out to assess the knowledge about General practices and Technology, UDAIPUR of care of clothing, renovation, garment designing and enrichment among rural women. It was (RAJASTHAN) INDIA found that women have inadequate knowledge about clothing practices and renovation techniques.

Key words : Clothing, Garments, Care, Knowledge, Renovation.

he present study was conducted in five adopted level has been depicted in Fig 1. It can be seen that 32 Tvillages of All India Coordinated Research Project per cent respondents were illiterate and also 32% Home Science, Udaipur i.e. Palana khurd, Palana kalan, respondents educated up to middle class. Sixteen per cent Nurda, Mahuda and Virdholiya of Mavli panchayat samiti of the respondents were educated up to intermediate. Few of district Udaipur. Fifty respondents form each village respondents educated up to high school and graduation were selected by simple random sampling. Thus total 250 and above.Fig. 1 Education level of respondents farm women were selected for the study. A suitable research tool was prepared in light of the objectives of 35 the study and data were collected by interview technique. 30 Distribution of respondents according to the age : Table 1 shows the age distribution of respondents. 25 Majority of the respondents were found in the age range of 21-30 years , followed by 28 per cent respondents 20 between 31-40 years of age and 18% respondents were 15 below 20 years. Only 12% respondents were in the age range of 41-50 years in age. 10

Table: 1 Distribution of respondents according to the age 5 N=250 Sr. No. Age Number Percentage (%) 0 Illiterate M iddle High school Intermediate Graduation Technical 1. Below 20 years 45 18 class & above education 2. 21- 30 years 105 42 Level of Education 3. 31-40 years 70 28 Fig. 1 : Education level of respondents 4. 41-50 years 30 12 5. Senior citizens - - Distribution of respondents according to income levels: Distribution of respondents according to educational Data about income level has been depicted in Fig 2. level: Half of the respondent’s income level was in the lower Distribution of respondents according to education middle income group i.e. between Rs.1500-2999/- followed

•HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• Fig. 2 Income level ofMEENU respondents SRIVASTAVA, PREETI UDAWAT AND SEEMA RANI 224

60 per cent of the respondents were members of local organization. 50 40 Distribution of respondents according to method of 30 cultivation practiced by the respondents:

20 About method of cultivation practiced by the respondents, majority of the respondents (68%) practiced 10 self cultivation method as their major practice, followed 0 by 20 per cent of the respondents who gave the land on Low income (less Lower middle M iddle income Upper middle than Rs. 1,500/-) income (Rs. 1500 (Rs. 3000 – income ( Rs. leaseFig. remaining4 Method 12%of cultivation respondents practiced did not by possessed the any – 2999/-) 4999/-) 5000 – 6999/-) land (Fig. 4). respondents Income Level

Fig. 2 : Income level of respondents 12 by 24 per cent respondents whose income level was 20 Self cultivation middle income. Remaining respondents were in low income and upper middle income group as is clear from Lease the Fig. 2. Do not own any land 68 Distribution of respondents according to type and Size of the family: Fig. 4 : Method of cultivation practice by the respondents According to type and size of the family, majority of the respondents belonged to joint family and their size of family was found large. Remaining respondents were Distribution according to the type of clothing worn by belonging to medium size and nuclear family. A very few male respondents: respondents were belonging to small size family (Table 2). Distribution according to the type of clothing worn by the male respondents in winter revealed that 16 per

Table 2 : Distribution of respondents according to type and Winter size of the family N=250 Number & 30 Type of family Size of the family Shirt percentage of Nuclear Joint Small Medium Large 25 Kurtha respondents 20 T-shirt Number 90 160 30 95 125 Coat 15 Percentage 36 64 12 38 50 Vest 10 (a) Small -up to 4 members , (b) Medium -up to 6 members Pant Pyjama (c) Large -above 6 members 5 Shorts Percentage ofPercentage respondents 0 Dhoti Cotton Polyester Blend Synthetic Wool Silk Distribution of respondents based on whether they are Lungi members of any organization: Fig- 5 a Type of Fig.fabric 5 w a orn by the respondents Fig.3The DistributionFig.3 shows of thatrespondents majority accordingof the respondents to Summer (78%) weremembership not member of ofany any organization organization. Only 22 30 Shirt 25 Kurtha

20 T-shirt 11 Coat Local organization 15 Cooperative society Vest 10 Private organization Pant Govt. agency 5 Pyjama Any other Shorts

Percentage ofPercentage respondents 0 Not a member of any organization Dhoti 39 Cotton Polyester Blend Synthetic Wool Silk Lungi Fig- 5 b Type of fabricFig. worn5 b by the respondents

Fig. 3 : Distribution of respondents according to Fig. 5 a & b : Type of fabric worn by the male respondents in membership of any organization. winter and summer

[Asian J. Home Sci., 3 (2) Dec. 2008- May 2009] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• 225 KNOWLEDGE OF RURAL WOMEN ABOUT GENERAL PRACTICES OF CARE OF CLOTHING AND ITS RENOVATION cent respondents preferred polyester shirt, followed by shown by 6-12 per cent of the respondents who preferred blended shirt by 14 per cent of the respondents (Fig. 5a ghaghra of different fabric material such as synthetic, and 5 b). Very few respondents (10%) wore woolens blended and polyester. shirt as depicted in the Table 8. Majority of the respondents Respondents (4-10%) used to wear salwar kameez preferred polyester fabric in Kurta, pant, pajama, dhoti preferred polyester, blended and synthetic fabrics. Very and lungi, 16 per cent of respondents used to wear blended few respondents preferred cotton blouse. lungi, and 6-12 per cent of the respondents preferred About summer wear fabrics, majority of respondents blended Kurta, pant and coat in their outer wear. Only preferred polyester saree-blouse and ghaghra. Equally 8 4% respondents wear woolen coat in winters per cent respondents preferred polyester salwar kameez. Data regarding summer wear clothing revealed that 20 per cent respondents wore cotton blouse in summer majority of respondents preferred polyester pant, lungi, wear and 4-6 per cent of the respondents preferred cotton Kurta, pyjama and Dhoti, 14-20 per cent of the salwar kameez. Remaining respondents used synthetic respondents liked blended lungi, shirt and Kurta. About fabrics in their salwar kameez, saree-blouse and ghaghra cotton preference, 6-14 respondents preferred cotton shirt, Rainy wear clothing pattern of female respondent Kurta, lungi dhoti and pyjama. Few respondents were was found same as that of summer wear (Fig. 6 b). choosing synthetic fabric in their pant and t-shirts. When asked about their rainy wear clothing and fabric it was Clothing care practices: found same as in summer wear Distribution of the respondents according to the practices followed by them before washing has been Distribution according to the type of clothing worn by depicted in Table 3 and Fig. 7. Majority of respondents female respondents: (70%) used to sort out their garments according to dirt. Data in Fig. 6 a depicts the distribution of female 82 per cent of the respondents were sorting out fabric respondents according to the type of clothing worn in according to colour. All the respondents did mending of winter season. Majority of the respondents preferred their clothes prior top washing. 90 per cent of the polyester saree-blouse, followed by blended fabrics by respondents did not practice about making of outline of 14-20 % respondents. Choices of other materials was woolens before and after washing. It was found that 80 per cent of the respondents soaked clothes in water during W in te r Fig. 6 a washing and 54 per cent respondents boiled clothes with 4 5 washing soda 4 0

3 5 K a m e e z Distribution of respondents according to the type of 3 0 K u rta B lo u s e cleansing agent used: 2 5 S a lw a r P yja m i Majority of respondents (82%) used soap as 2 0 S a re e L e h n g a cleansing agent in their clothes, followed by 62 per cent 1 5 G h a g ra Percentage of respondents An y o th e r respondents who also used washing powder. Very few 1 0 respondents (18%) used detergent powder in their clothes 5 as shown in the Fig. 8. 0 C o tto n P o lye s te r SummB le n er d and RainyS yn th e ticSeason W o o l S ilk Fig-6 a Type of fabric w orn by the respondentsFig. 6 b Fig. 5 Practices followed before washing 40

35 120 Yes Percentage (%) No Percentage (%) 30 Kameez 100 Kurta 25 Blouse 80 Salw ar 20 Py jami 60 Saree 15 Lehnga 40 Ghagra Percentage of respondents10 A ny other 20

5 ofPercentage respondents 0

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Cotton Poly es ter Blend Synthetic Method Fig. 6 a & b Fig-6c: Type Type of of fabric w ornworn by the by respondents the female respondents in winter and summer Fig. 7 : Practices followed before washing

[Asian J. Home Sci., 3 (2) Dec. 2008- May 2009] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• MEENU SRIVASTAVA, PREETI UDAWAT AND SEEMA RANI 226

Table 3 : Distribution of respondents according to practices followed before washing N=250 Number and percentage of respondents (%) Sr. No. Method Yes No Number Percentage (%) Number Percentage (%) 1. Sort out according to dirt (light/medium/heavy) 175 70 75 30 2. Sort out according to colour (light/medium) 205 82 45 18 3. Mending 250 100 4. Making outlines of woolens 25 10 225 90 5. Soaking in water 200 80 50 20 6. Soaking in salt water - 7. Boiling with washing soda 135 54 115 46 8. Bleaching Fig. 6 Type of cleansing agent used by the respondents Fig. 8 Distribution of respondents according to the method of washing

90 120 Det ergent Kneading and squeezing 80 So ap 100 Beating against stone Washing powder 70 Nat ural cleansing agent Beating with a wooden mallet 80 Scrubbing with brush 60 Washing machine 50 60

40 40 30

Percentage of respondents of Percentage 20 20 0 10 Cotton Polyester Blend Synthetic Wool Silk 0 Type of fabric Cleansing Agent used Fig. 10 : Distribution of respondents according to the method Fig. 8 : Type of cleansing agent used by the respondents of washing

Distribution of respondents according to the method kneading and squeezing method for washing all types of of using cleansing agent: clothes. Cent per cent respondents used to follow beating Data about distribution of respondents according to against stone method for all types of fabric except woollen method of using cleansing agent has been depicted in fabrics. More than 80 % respondents preferred method Fig. 9. Cent per cent respondents rub the soap against of scrubbing with brush for cotton, polyester and synthetic clothes. 62 per cent of the respondents soaked their fabrics. Very few respondents used washing machine for clothes in solution of washing powder and water. washing their clothes. It was found that cent per cent respondents were Distribution of respondents according to the method using optical brighteners/ bluing agents for cotton, of washing: polyester and blended fabric. Only 16 per cent respondents Data in Fig. 10 revealed that all the respondents used applied starch on their clothes after washing and drying Fig. 7 Method of using cleansing agent as is clear from the above Table 4. When asked about type of starch used for stiffening Powder dissolved in water by them , it was revealed that 30 per cent of respondents Rub t he so ap ag ainst clo t h used commercial starch on cotton and polyester fabric 6 2 % and 70 per cent respondents were using home made starch i.e. rice starch in their clothes. It was observed that the respondents were not using starch o blended,

100% % synthetic, woolen ands silk material.(Table 5) Perusal of data in Table 4 shows the distribution of respondents according to method of starch preparation. It was observed that only 16 per cent respondents were Fig. 9 : Method of using cleansing agent using starch on their clothes and the method of starch [Asian J. Home Sci., 3 (2) Dec. 2008- May 2009] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• 227 KNOWLEDGE OF RURAL WOMEN ABOUT GENERAL PRACTICES OF CARE OF CLOTHING AND ITS RENOVATION

Table : 4 Distribution of respondents according to finishing methods N=250 Number and percentage of respondents Sr. Type of finishing given Cotton Polyester Blend Synthetic Wool Silk No. No. (%) No. (%) No. (%) No. (%) No. (%) No. (%) Optical brighteners/Blueing 1. 250 100 250 100 250 100 ------agents 40 2. Starches 16 ------3. Other special finishing agents ------

Table : 5 Distribution of respondents according to type of starch used for stiffening different clothes N=40 Type of fabric (% of respondents) Sr. No. Type of starch C P B SY W S 1. Rice starch 70 70 - - - - 2. Sago starch ------3. Commercial starch 30 30 - - - - 4. Any other ------preparation was directly dissolving the starch in cold water Table 7 : Preparation of bluing agents N=250 for starch preparation. None of then respondent followed Number and percentage of Sr. Preparation method respondents correct method of making starch i.e. dissolving starch in No. cold water and boiling it which prevents lump formation Number Percentage (%) Dissolve in little water and Regarding, preparation of blueing agents, majority 1. 185 74 of respondents (74%) used blueing agent by dissolving add to the bucket of water in little water and add to the bucket of water (Table Tie in small piece of cloth 2. - - 7). Remaining percentage of respondents used method and shake in water of dissolve drops / powder directly in water. None of Dissolve drops / powder 3. 65 26 the respondent used tieing method of blueing which directly in water prevents streaks and grains formation in clothes after bluing in water. clothes line method for synthetic fabric, followed by 30 per cent respondents who used wringing method. Very Table 6 : Distribution of respondents according to method of starch preparation N=40 few respondents (8%) used squeezing with hands method Number and percentage of for woolens fabric Sr. Method of starch respondents No. preparation The above Table 8 shows that all the respondents Number Percentage (%) preferred sun drying for all types of clothes. Only 10 per Dissolving in cold water - - Fig. 9 Distribution of respondents according to 1. and boiling m ethod of rem oving excess w ater from clothes

Directly dissolve in cold 40 100 100 W ringing 2. water 90 80 Dripping on the 70 clothes line Distribution of respondents according to method of 60 50 Squeezing with removing excess water from clothes- 40 hands Distribution of respondents according to method of 30 20 removing excess water from clothes as shown in Fig. 11 10 depicts that more than 70 per cent respondents used Percentage of respondents0 wringing method for cotton, polyester, blended and Silk Blend W o ol woolens clothes. Less than 30 per cent respondents were Polye ster Sy nthetic using dripping on the clothes line method for cotton, Type of fabric polyester and blended fabric. Fig. 11 : Distribution of respondents according to method of 70 per cent respondents were using dripping on the removing excess water from clothes

[Asian J. Home Sci., 3 (2) Dec. 2008- May 2009] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• MEENU SRIVASTAVA, PREETI UDAWAT AND SEEMA RANI 228

Table 8 : Distribution of respondents according to drying practices Type of fabric Sr. Method Cotton Polyester Blend Synthetic Wool Silk No. No. (%) No. (%) No. (%) No. (%) No (%) No. (%) 1. Under shade 2. Sun drying 250 100 250 100 250 100 250 100 3. Drip drying 4. On river/canal beds 5. On grass 25 10

Table 9 : Distribution of respondents according to ironing methods followed Number & Done by Type of iron used Stage of fabric ironing Ironing temperature Type of percentage of fabric Semi Dried and respondents Self Dhobi charcoal Electric Low Medium High dry dampened Number 190 60 90 100 - 190 - 40 60 Cotton Percentage 76 24 36 40 - 76 - 16 24 Number 200 50 90 110 - 200 - 35 75 Polyester Percentage 80 20 36 44 - 80 -- 14 30 Number 200 50 90 110 - 200 - 200 - Blends Percentage 80 20 36 44 - 80 - 80 - Number 200 50 90 110 -- 200 35 165 - Synthetics Percentage 80 20 36 44 -- 80 14 66 - Number 200 -- 90 110 - 200 200 - - Wool Percentage 80 - 36 44 - 80 80 - - Number ------Silk Percentage ------

Table 10 : Distribution of respondents according to storage and disinfection of clothes Use of repellents in storage Disinfection during special conditions Number & percentage of Ill-health Children After long storage respondents Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Number 250 ------250 - Percentage 100 - - - - - 100 - cent of the respondents dried their woolens clothes on It was interesting to note that all the respondents grass. were giving exposure to sunlight after long storage of the Data in Table 9 depicts the distribution of respondents clothes. All the respondents used leaves of neem and according to ironing method, more than 76 per cent of naphthalene balls as repellents in storage for disinfection the respondents did self ironing on all type of clothes and of clothes (Table 10). remaining respondent’s ironing was done by Dhobi. Data about the old and unused garments and Equally 44 per cent of the respondents used electric iron awareness about renovation revealed that majority of the for all type of fabric. Remaining respondents preferred respondents (60%) did renovation and reuse their old charcoal iron. It was observed that all the respondents garments. 32 per cent of the respondents used to give dried and damped their clothes before fabric ironing. their clothes to relatives and 8% respondents were giving About ironing temperature, 24 -30 per cent their old clothes in exchange. Majority of respondents respondents iron cotton and polyester at hiogh (86 % )were aware about quilting technique, followed by temperature. Woollen clothes were ironed at low hand darning, patch work and machine darning (Table temperature by 80 per cent respondents. More than 70 11). per cent respondents preferred medium temperature for Majority of the respondents were doing quilting on blended and synthetic fabrics. their clothes for renovation. Less than 26 per cent

[Asian J. Home Sci., 3 (2) Dec. 2008- May 2009] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• 229 KNOWLEDGE OF RURAL WOMEN ABOUT GENERAL PRACTICES OF CARE OF CLOTHING AND ITS RENOVATION

Table 11 : Distribution of respondents according to who were having basic skills in patch work. 20-30 per utilization of the old &unused garments and cent respondents were having good skills in hand darning awareness about renovation and quilting (Table 12). Sr. Old/unused garments & Yes No. awareness of renovation Number Percentage Conclusion: Utilization of old garments The present study concludes that the rural women 1. Give them to relatives 80 32 have insufficient knowledge about Clothing care practices 2. Give them for charity - - and renovation techniques and there is dire need to carry 3. Give them in exchange 20 8 out suitable intervention programme to improve their 4. Renovate and reuse 150 60 livelihood. Awareness of renovation methods 1. Patch work 60 24 Authors’ affiliations: 2. Hand darning 65 26 PREETI UDAWAT AND SEEMA RANI, Department 3. Machine darning 55 22 of Textiles and Apparel Desiging, College of Home 4. Whipping - - Science, Maharana Pratap University of Agriculture and 5. Quilting 215 86 Technology, UDAIPUR , (RAJASTHAN) INDIA

Table 12 : Distribution of respondents according to renovation methods and existing levels of skill ********** Level of skill ****** Sr. Method Basic skill Good skill No. Number Percentage Number Percentage 1. Patch work 60 24 50 20 2. Hand darning 15 6 20 8 3. Machine darning 35 14 - - 4. Whipping - - - - 5. Quilting 140 56 75 30 respondents were aware about hand darning, patch work and machine darning. Distribution of respondents according to level of skill revealed that (56%) having basic skills in quilting, followed by 24 per cent respondents

[Asian J. Home Sci., 3 (2) Dec. 2008- May 2009] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY•