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Thewomanwhocreated Thesupermodel opposite: Eileen ThEwomaN who crEaTEd Ford at her daughter Katie’s home in NewYork. this page: Ford ThE supErmodEl models in 1966 To her competitors, Eileen Ford was a monster; to her models, she was a mother figure. Tim Teeman meets the 89-year-old New Yo rker who changed the face of fashion Portrait Erik Madigan Heck ileen Ford is approaching 90 in a resolutely uncuddly mood: she rolls her eyes at the notion of ‘What gets me is the permanent, ever present mortality, derides “tear-jerking” questions and notes, of the nastiness of Eileen Ford. She is Machiavellian radiation she has had to treat a brain tumour, that she had great and Byzantine, like a snake with seven heads’ fun teaching the hospital staff to E jitterbug. Her toughness isn’t icy, merely practical, brisk. She is Does she miss Jerry? “Yes, but it doesn’t 1981, Eileen initiated the first Ford Supermodel scornful of pat sentimentality. Ford do any good to sit around and moan. Nobody of the World award, won by Annette Stai (the loves, and is loved and cherished in return, by wants to see that. If when people asked how annual competition continues today). “My her three daughters, son, eight grandchildren you were, you said [she puts on a pathetic income surpassed my dad’s in my first year of and four great-grandchildren: she calls them voice], ‘Oh, I’m sad,’ you wouldn’t have any modelling – and my dad made a good living,” “marvellous human beings” and lists their friends at all. The only thing I talk about sadly Turlington once said of her earnings, and sterling qualities and achievements, such as is when a tree falls down in the garden or in 1990 Linda Evangelista famously said of daughter Katie’s campaign against human something breaks in the house.” Depression herself and Turlington, “We don’t wake up trafficking. But Ford, who with husband Jerry “is not part of my nature. Of course, I’ve cried, for less than $10,000 a day.” founded the famous Ford modelling agency but I’m more likely to cry at the movies. I’d With such large sums of money at stake, in 1946 and helped usher in the era of the even cry at Mickey Mouse. How can anyone fierce battling for models broke out between supermodel, doesn’t do soft and fuzzy. be luckier than I am? It was a really great the leading agencies – Ford, Wilhelmina and Sheand Jerryran Ford until Katie took over marriage. We were lucky to work together; we John Casablancas’s Elite – entertainingly as CEO in 1995 (it was sold to Stone Tower raised our children together, ate meals with and eye-poppingly reported in Michael Equity Partners in 2007; Katie remains on the our models. They were like our children.” Gross’s 1995 book, Model. Elite and Ford board of directors). In their time, Eileen and Naomi Campbell lived with you, I say. “She became particularly bitter rivals. Jerry said Jerry, who died in 2008, represented some left us several times. I wouldn’t let her smoke. Casablancas’s methods were “sleazy. I don’t of the world’s best-known models, Christy I read about her now and it seems her life is respect him.” “I will never sleep with both Turlington, Jean Shrimpton, Naomi Campbell, turning out the way she wanted.” Ford had eyes closed as long as that woman is around,” Jerry Hall, Kim Basinger, Ali MacGraw, house rules for the girls. “When they wanted Casablancas once said of Eileen. And in Candice Bergen and Suzy Parker among them. to go out, I had to approve who they were another interview: “What gets me is the However, although many of the models with, where they were going, how long they permanent, ever-present nastiness of Eileen lived with her, Ford doesn’t seem a clucking would be gone.” She smiles. “But it wasn’t like Ford. She is Machiavellian and Byzantine. She mother hen. She dismisses criticism of the we had a bunch of screaming maniacs trying is like a snake with seven heads: cut off six modelling industry: women’s body images and to break the door down.” and she still has one left to bite you.” eating disorders are not hers or magazines’ Doesshe think models todayare unhealthy; Of Casablancas, Ford tells me, “Wecertainly responsibilities, she insists. Of the era of the are they taken care of properly? “Well, quite never became friends. He’s ill with cancer now supermodel, she says, “It came because we frankly, there’s never going to be another me. and I’m very sorry about that. He has a wife made it come. We built them up and the best Not everybody wants to do what I liked doing, and children. You don’t wish that on anyone.” GETTY which was taking care of them, feeding them, Modelling and magazines promoting skinny Y, models build themselves. Most of the good ones have business savvy. If I were a young taking them to the Metropolitan Museum models are charged with encouraging eating model, say like Kate Moss or any of the others for evening classes. It was a joy to see them disorders, I say. “I read some girl said she was who have a business going, I would make developing as my children were developing. going to start a modelling union,” Ford says. the money and quit. I’d just run.” She laughs. ‘I liked taking care of the models, taking For us, modelling wasn’t just a business, it was “I’ve heard that crud so many times. They’re “Why drag it out? There’s no reason.” love – and we loved those models.” never going to protect models. Models don’t In Katie’s New York apartment, working them to the Metropolitan Museum. For us, And they looked after them. From its early need that kind of protection anyway. Carmen through a plate of peanut butter sandwiches, days, Ford created a five-day work week for [Dell’Orefice, 80, still modelling and a close Ford is dressed in a fitted Escada jacket, modelling wasn’t just a business, it was love’ its models, paying their fees, less the agency’s friend of Ford’s] is agreat example. Sheweighs 1966. THIS SPREAD:multihued TIME & LIFE/GETT Louis Féraud shirt and black slacks; 10 per cent cut, every Friday, later recouping the same thing, measures inch for inch what Y, her hair is freshly coiffed into a wispy helmet. the fees from its clients. On Jerry’s death, The she has always measured. Models are made RK CIT She will mark her 90th birthday on March 25 If it’s gotta be, it’s gotta be. I had the tumour New York Times reported its first star models, that way. I said to some girls when they came YO with a dinner thrown for her by her ex-son-in- before, had it operated on. It grew back. They Dorian Leigh and Mary Jane Russell, were in, ‘You have to go away and come back when law Andre Bálazs at the Standard Hotel, New can’t remove it all the way.” X-rays carried out earning $3,500 a week by the mid-Fifties; Suzy you’re ten pounds lighter.’ But the only time York, which he owns. She seems frail; post- once every three weeks chart the tumour’s size Parker (Leigh’s sister) and Jean Patchett were I remember a model becoming really anorexic radiation, shewalks with astroller and shesays and progression. Does it make her think about Ford’s other leading models of the era. “Before was when she went to Milan and was told by RD MODELS, NEW she’shavingasecond hearingaid fitted, costing her mortality? “No, I don’t really think about Jerry came along, there were only robber someone to drink club soda; she got so thin FO “several thousand dollars”. Is that frustrating the future.” She chuckles. “It’s a good thing barons who were out there running modelling she had to come home and be put in hospital.” forher? “No,”she says in her wry, commanding I don’t; I’d be sorely disappointed to find I was schools,” Carmen Dell’Orefice told the paper. Other models have become ill, died; images voice. “I have ancient ears. There’s nothing wrong. What good does thinking about death Clockwise from top left: When it negotiated Lauren Hutton’s of unhealthily thin women are a recurring I can do about it. I’m pretty flexible and do? I’m an Aries. I don’t look back. I don’t Jerry and Eileen Ford, contract with Revlon in 1974, the first contract focus of debate, I say. “The press has to write adaptable. I think it’s more frustrating for contemplate things about me. I’ve spent my 1948; Ford tends Sandra for a model to represent a specific brand, Ford about something,” Ford says dismissively. everyone else I keep saying, ‘Whaaaat?’ to.” adult life thinking about doing things for other Nelson’s blisters, 1948; set the bar for significantly higher fees for “When they run out of saying how great- One of each of her children was with her people and it gets to be a habit. I was married Christy Turlington, 1993; models, leading to the kinds of astronomical looking models are, they say how terrible- throughout the radiation, she says proudly, two months short of 65 years to the most Naomi Campbell, 1990; sums (Gisele Bündchen made an estimated looking they are.” She adds sharply, “I’m not noting the family’s closeness.
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