A Queer History of Modeling Work! Elspeth H
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The Leading Edge
ANN ISSUEISSSUE OF WOMEN’SWOM WEAR DAILY THE LEADING EDGE ONE FOR ALL? THE DEMOCRATIZATION OF DISTRIBUTION YOUNG HOLLYWOOD AT PLAY THE ORIGINAL MODEL MOGUL TELLS ALL WAL-MART’S CHANGE OF FACE REDEFINING PICTURE FAB PERFECT FOUR BREAKOUT BEAUTIES FOR THE MODERN AGE HIND SAHLI, JOAN SMALLS, ILVIE WITTEK AND TATI COTLIAR BB1005.001.Cover.a;14.indd 1 4/28/10 3:53:41 PM © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. DNA damage and skin aging. The #1 Repair formula womenNow you around have morethe world control can’tover itlive than without. you think.* AdvancedAdvanced NightNight Repair InspiredThe one by revolutionary 25 years of formulagroundbreaking millions of DNAwomen research. can’t live without. Inspired by 25 years of groundbreaking DNA research, There’s a reason why millions of women love it. Estée Lauder scientists bring you this high-performance They start seeing the dramatic reduction in the serum to help continuously repair the appearance of visible signs of aging in just 4 weeks and can’t past damage. With the age-defying power of our exclusive imagine trusting their skin to anything else. In fact, Chronolux™ Technology, you’ll see a dramatic reduction women love sharing their secret for beautiful skin: in the visible signs of aging. “My skin looks younger and feels softer. It just looks *Based on unit sales of Advanced Night Repair as reported by the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands sold in fi ne department stores in the U.S. © 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. sold in fi the NPD for FY 2010 among select brands Night Repair as reported by Advanced *Based on unit sales of healthier, smoother and I have a more even skin tone.” CARLA,New USA For Eyes All the proven repair of our #1 Serum. -
Guide to the Preparation of an Area of Distribution Manual. INSTITUTION Clemson Univ., S.C
DOCUMENT RESUME ID 087 919 CB 001 018 AUTHOR Hayes, Philip TITLE Guide to the Preparation of an Area of Distribution Manual. INSTITUTION Clemson Univ., S.C. Vocational Education Media Center.; South Carolina State Dept. of Education, Columbia. Office of Vocational Education. PUB DATE 72 NOTE 100p. EDRS PRICE MF-$0.75 HC-$4.20 DESCRIPTORS Business Education; Clothing Design; *Distributive Education; *Guides; High School Curriculum; Manuals; Student Developed Materials; *Student Projects IDENTIFIERS *Career Awareness; South Carolina ABSTRACT This semester-length guide for high school distributive education students is geared to start the student thinking about the vocation he would like to enter by exploring one area of interest in marketing and distribution and then presenting the results in a research paper known as an area of distribution manual. The first 25 pages of this document pertain to procedures to follow in writing a manual, rules for entering manuals in national Distributive Education Clubs of America competition, and some summary sheet examples of State winners that were entered at the 25th National DECA Leadership Conference. The remaining 75 pages are an example of an area of distribution manual on "How Fashion Changes Relate to Fashion Designing As a Career," which was a State winner and also a national finalist. In the example manual, the importance of fashion in the economy, the large role fashion plays in the clothing industry, the fast change as well as the repeating of fashion, qualifications for leadership and entry into the fashion world, and techniques of fabric and color selection are all included to create a comprehensive picture of past, present, and future fashion trends. -
Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino: Full Transcript of the Interview
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AN ORAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FASHION Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino C1046/09 IMPORTANT Please refer to the Oral History curators at the British Library prior to any publication or broadcast from this document. Oral History The British Library 96 Euston Road London NW1 2DB United Kingdom +44 [0]20 7412 7404 [email protected] Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of this transcript, however no transcript is an exact translation of the spoken word, and this document is intended to be a guide to the original recording, not replace it. Should you find any errors please inform the Oral History curators. THE NATIONAL LIFE STORY COLLECTION INTERVIEW SUMMARY SHEET Ref. No.: C1046/09 Playback No.: F15198-99; F15388-90; F15531-35; F15591-92 Collection title: An Oral History of British Fashion Interviewee’s surname: Savage Title: Mr Interviewee’s forenames: Percy Sex: Occupation: Date of birth: 12.10.1926 Mother’s occupation: Father’s occupation: Date(s) of recording: 04.06.2004; 11.06.2004; 02.07.2004; 09.07.2004; 16.07.2004 Location of interview: Name of interviewer: Linda Sandino Type of recorder: Marantz Total no. of tapes: 12 Type of tape: C60 Mono or stereo: stereo Speed: Noise reduction: Original or copy: original Additional material: Copyright/Clearance: Interview is open. Copyright of BL Interviewer’s comments: Percy Savage Page 1 C1046/09 Tape 1 Side A (part 1) Tape 1 Side A [part 1] .....to plug it in? No we don’t. Not unless something goes wrong. [inaudible] see well enough, because I can put the [inaudible] light on, if you like? Yes, no, lovely, lovely, thank you. -
Westminsterresearch the Feminine Awkward
WestminsterResearch http://www.westminster.ac.uk/westminsterresearch The Feminine Awkward: Graceless Bodies and the Performance of Femininity in Fashion Photographs Shinkle, E. This is an Accepted Manuscript of an article published by Taylor & Francis in Fashion Theory, doi: 10.1080/1362704X.2016.1252524 The final definitive version is available online: https://dx.doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1252524 © 2017 Taylor & Francis The WestminsterResearch online digital archive at the University of Westminster aims to make the research output of the University available to a wider audience. Copyright and Moral Rights remain with the authors and/or copyright owners. Whilst further distribution of specific materials from within this archive is forbidden, you may freely distribute the URL of WestminsterResearch: ((http://westminsterresearch.wmin.ac.uk/). In case of abuse or copyright appearing without permission e-mail [email protected] The feminine awkward: graceless bodies and the performance of femininity in fashion photographs Eugenie Shinkle The past decade or so has seen fashion photography embracing a catalogue of uncomfortable attitudes. Anxious, embarrassed gazes. Knotted hands. Knees and elbows, necks and torsos, bent and folded at uncomfortable angles. Mottled skin and disembodied limbs. Grating, uneasy relationships between bodies and garments. This idiom, particularly prevalent within the alternative fashion press and increasingly within photographic art as well, is one that I’ve come to think of as the ‘feminine awkward’.1 Awkwardness, as I understand it here, is a negative or “agonistic” affect, organised by “trajectories of repulsion;” (Ngai 2005, 11) a feeling that tends to repel rather than to attract. It involves a combination of emotional and bodily unease – gawky, bumbling embarrassment and physical discomfort; a mild torment of body and mind. -
Fashion Awards Preview
WWD A SUPPLEMENT TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY 2011 CFDA FASHION AWARDS PREVIEW 053111.CFDA.001.Cover.a;4.indd 1 5/23/11 12:47 PM marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG WWD Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Edward Nardoza ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, Melissa Mattiace ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Pamela Firestone EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Pete Born PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC, Alison Adler Matz EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bridget Foley SALES DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder EDITOR James Fallon ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel Fertel MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Matt Rice MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. -
As Americans Fixated on Modern Art and the Space Race, Harper's
POP GOES BAZAAR As Americans fixated on modern art and the space race, Harper’s Bazaar editor Nancy White pushed fashion to its outer limits By Stephen Mooallem ON APRIL 9, 1959, NASA announced the start of Project Mercury, a program whose goal was to send the rst astronauts into orbit. It was the latest volley in the Cold War–era space race, as the U.S. and the Soviet Union competed to conquer outer space. Harper’s Bazaar soon got in on the action too. For a fashion story in the February 1960 issue, Richard Avedon traveled to the NASA space center at Cape Canaveral, Florida, where he photographed the model Dovima in a series of con- spicuously modish looks with geometric shapes. At one point during the shoot, Dovima posed in front of a launch pad rigged with an SM-65 Atlas, which was not actually a spacecraft but the rst intercontinental ballistic missile capable of carrying a nuclear warhead. There was still a month to go in the 1950s, but the 1960s had already arrived. Nancy White, a longtime fashion editor at Hearst’s Good Housekeeping, had succeeded Carmel Snow as the editor of Bazaar two years earlier. White was the daughter of Hearst executive Tom White—and Snow’s niece—and her appointment was intended to help ease the transition as Snow, whose physical health had begun to decline as her drinking increased, moved to an emeritus role at the magazine. ‰ FOUNDATION © THE RICHARD AVEDON PHOTOGRAPH: COVER Jean Shrimpton, helmet by Mr. John, on the cover of the April 1965 issue, photographed by Richard Avedon 132 hite wasn’t a grande verging, and Bazaar raced to keep up. -
Model Commodities: Gender and Value in Contemporary Couture
Model Commodities: Gender and Value in Contemporary Couture By Xiaoyu Elena Wang A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Political Science in the Graduate Division of the University of California, Berkeley Committee in charge: Professor Wendy L. Brown, Chair Professor Shannon C. Stimson Professor Ramona Naddaff Professor Julia Q. Bryan-Wilson Spring 2015 Abstract Model Commodities: Gender and Value in Contemporary Couture by Xiaoyu Elena Wang Doctor of Philosophy in Political Science University of California, Berkeley Professor Wendy L. Brown, Chair Every January and June, the most exclusive and influential sector of the global apparel industry stages a series of runway shows in the high fashion, or, couture capitals of New York, Milan, London and Paris. This dissertation explores the production of material goods and cultural ideals in contemporary couture, drawing on scholarly and anecdotal accounts of the business of couture clothes as well as the business of couture models to understand the disquieting success of marketing luxury goods through bodies that appear to signify both extreme wealth and extreme privation. This dissertation argues that the contemporary couture industry idealizes a mode of violence that is unique in couture’s history. The industry’s shift of emphasis toward the mass market in the late 20th-century entailed divestments in the integrity of garment production and modeling employment. Contemporary couture clothes and models are promoted as high-value objects, belying however a material impoverishment that can be read from the models’ physiques and miens. 1 Table of Contents I. The enigma of couture…………………………………………………………………………..1 1. -
The Vietnam War in the American Mind, 1975-1985 Mark W
University of Richmond UR Scholarship Repository Master's Theses Student Research 8-1989 Half a memory : the Vietnam War in the American mind, 1975-1985 Mark W. Jackley Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarship.richmond.edu/masters-theses Recommended Citation Jackley, Mark W., "Half a memory : the Vietnam War in the American mind, 1975-1985" (1989). Master's Theses. Paper 520. This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Research at UR Scholarship Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Master's Theses by an authorized administrator of UR Scholarship Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Half A Memory: The Vietnam War In The American Mind, 1975 - 1985 Mark W. Jackley Submitted for the Degree of Master of Arts in History University of Richmond, 1989 Dr. Barry Westin, Thesis Director This study attempts to show how Americans in general remembered the Vietnam War from 1975 to 1985, the decade after it ended. A kind of social history, the study concentrates on the war as remembered in the popular realm, examining novels as well as nonfiction, poetry, plays, movies, articles in political journals, songs, memorials, public opinion polls and more. Most everything but academic history is discussed. The study notes how the war's political historY. was not much remembered; the warrior, not the war, became the focus of national memory. The study argues that personal memory predominated over political memory for a number of reasons, the most important being the relative unimportance of the nation of Vietnam to most Americans. -
Extended Sensibilities Homosexual Presence in Contemporary Art
CHARLEY BROWN SCOTT BURTON CRAIG CARVER ARCH CONNELLY JANET COOLING BETSY DAMON NANCY FRIED EXTENDED SENSIBILITIES HOMOSEXUAL PRESENCE IN CONTEMPORARY ART JEDD GARET GILBERT & GEORGE LEE GORDON HARMONY HAMMOND JOHN HENNINGER JERRY JANOSCO LILI LAKICH LES PETITES BONBONS ROSS PAXTON JODY PINTO CARLA TARDI THE NEW MUSEUM FRAN WINANT EXTENDED SENSIBILITIES HOMOSEXUAL PRESENCE IN CONTEMPORARY ART CHARLEY BROWN HARMONY HAMMOND SCOTT BURTON JOHN HENNINGER CRAIG CARVER JERRY JANOSCO ARCH CONNELLY LILI LAKICH JANET COOLING LES PETITES BONBONS BETSY DAMON ROSS PAXTON NANCY FRIED JODY PINTO JEDD GARET CARLA TARDI GILBERT & GEORGE FRAN WINANT LE.E GORDON Daniel J. Cameron Guest Curator The New Museum EXTENDED SENSIBILITIES STAFF ACTIVITIES COUNCJT . Robin Dodds Isabel Berley HOMOSEXUAL PRESENCE IN CONTEMPORARY ART Nina Garfinkel Marilyn Butler N Lynn Gumpert Arlene Doft ::;·z17 John Jacobs Elliot Leonard October 16-December 30, 1982 Bonnie Johnson Lola Goldring .H6 Ed Jones Nanette Laitman C:35 Dieter Morris Kearse Dorothy Sahn Maria Reidelbach Laura Skoler Rosemary Ricchio Jock Truman Ned Rifkin Charles A. Schwefel INTERNS Maureen Stewart Konrad Kaletsch Marcia Thcker Thorn Middlebrook GALLERY ATTENDANTS VOLUNTEERS Joanne Brockley Connie Bangs Anne Glusker Bill Black Marcia Landsman Carl Blumberg Sam Robinson Jeanne Breitbart Jennifer Q. Smith Mary Campbell Melissa Wolf Marvin Coats Jody Cremin This exhibition is supported by a grant from the National Endowment for BOARD OF TRUSTEES Joanna Dawe the Arts in Washington, D.C., a Federal Agency, and is made possible in Jack Boulton Mensa Dente part by public funds from the New York State Council on the Arts. Elaine Dannheisser Gary Gale Library of Congress Catalog Number: 82-61279 John Fitting, Jr. -
67Th Annual Conference Literacy Research for Expanding Meaningfulness
67th Annual Conference Literacy Research for Expanding Meaningfulness November 29 - December 2, 2017 Tampa Marriott Waterside Hotel & Marina • Tampa, FL VISIT OUR DISPLAY New from Guilford AND SAVE 20–25% PLUS FREE SHIPPING! New Edition of a Bestselling Practitioner New Edition—A Major Revision! Vocabulary Assessment Guide and Text—Revised & Expanded! Disciplinary and Content to Support Instruction Lenses on Reading Literacy for Today’s Building Rich Word-Learning THIRD EDITION Adolescents, SIXTH EDITION Experiences An Introduction to Theories Honoring Diversity Margaret G. McKeown, PhD and Models and Building Competence Paul D. Deane, PhD Diane H. Tracey, EdD William G. Brozo, PhD Judith A. Scott, PhD Lesley Mandel Morrow, PhD Robert Krovetz, PhD “By grounding instructional examples René R. Lawless, EdM “The third edition of this text raises the within the disciplines, Brozo demon- “Integrating research from multiple bar. The authors have captured our field’s strates what responsive literacy practices historical and present-day understanding disciplines, the book advances a look like and what makes them unique multifaceted, nuanced perspective on of the behavioral, cognitive, and in different academic contexts. This is a sociocultural influences on reading vocabulary and illustrates how this great text for a master’s-level content- perspective can guide the next generation development.” —Nancy Frey, PhD, area/disciplinary literacy course.” San Diego State University of assessments to inform instruction.” —Leigh A. Hall, PhD, University of 1 1 2017, 6 ⁄8" x 9 ⁄4" Paperback, 302 Pages —Michael J. Kieffer, EdD, North Carolina at Chapel Hill FREE ISBN 978-1-4625-3064-9, $35.00 New York University 2017, 7" x 10" Paperback, 430 Pages 2017, 6" x 9" Paperback, 254 Pages FREE ISBN 978-1-4625-3008-3, $55.00 New in Paperback ISBN 978-1-4625-3079-3, $30.00 Adolescent Literacies New Edition—Revised & Expanded! A Handbook of Practice-Based New Edition of a Bestseller— Building Literacy with A Major Revision! Research English Language Learners Edited by Kathleen A. -
Roditi, Edouard (1910-1992) by John Mcfarland
Roditi, Edouard (1910-1992) by John McFarland Encyclopedia Copyright © 2015, glbtq, Inc. Entry Copyright © 2006 glbtq, Inc. Reprinted from http://www.glbtq.com Poet, translator, literary and art critic, and short story writer, Edouard Roditi was associated with most of the twentieth-century's avant-garde literary movements from Surrealism to post-modernism. For more than sixty years, he produced such an astonishing variety of smart, lively, and moving poetry and prose that nobody objected when he dubbed himself "The Pharaoh of Eclecticism." A member of several predominantly homosexual social circles, Roditi maintained friendships with literary and artistic figures ranging from Paul Bowles and Jean Cocteau to Paul Tchelitchew and Christian Dior. His art and literary criticism held artists and writers to the very highest standards and insisted that intense but uncritical infatuation with flashy new trends could end in disappointment and heartbreak. His Internationalist Birthright Roditi was born in Paris on June 6, 1910. He was the beneficiary of a remarkably rich confluence of heritages--Jewish, German, Italian, French, Spanish, and Greek--and was truly international, both American and European. His father, Oscar, an Italian born in Constantinople, had become a United States citizen after his father emigrated to America and gained citizenship. Although Oscar's father had left the family behind in Europe, all the family in Europe became citizens when he did by virtue of the citizenship statutes in force at that time. Roditi's mother, Violet, had an equally rich family history. She was born in France but became an English citizen in her youth. When she married Oscar, she too became a United States citizen. -
Media Information 22 September 2016
Media information 22 September 2016 1920s JAZZ AGE Fashion & Photographs 23 September 2016 – 15 January 2017 The Fashion and Textile Museum presents JAZZ AGE: Fashion & Photographs, a major exhibition of 1920s garments alongside portraits by James Abbe. • 1920s JAZZ AGE: Fashion & Photographs presents a glittering display of over 150 haute couture and ready-to-wear garments from 1919 to 1929. • Photographs by James Abbe (1883–1973), film excerpts and magazines highlight the role of graphic art and photography in promoting the 20s look • A Decade of Change is documented through shifting hemlines, waistlines and accessories, from hats to hairbrushes, stockings to cigarette holders. • Four outfits from The Great Gatsby film (2013) by Catherine Martin with Miuccia Prada highlight contemporary fascination with the decade Women’s clothing in the 1920s reflected dizzying social change on an unprecedented scale. From Paris and London to New York and Hollywood, the period following the Great War offered the modern woman a completely new style of dressing. With over 150 garments and accessories from a major private collection, this stunning selection of sportswear, printed day dresses, fringed flapper dresses, beaded evening wear, velvet capes, kimonos and silk pyjamas reveals the glamour, excess, frivolity and modernity of the decade. The exhibition focuses not only on high-end couture but also on the ready-made. It offers a reassessment of the 1920s by showcasing the wide variety of clothing and accessories available to the modern woman, not just the drop-waisted flapper dress immediately associated with the era. Throughout, the exhibition highlights the decade’s changing silhouette including the straighter less exaggerated shape, promoted by haute couture designers such as Lucile and Paul Poiret since the pre-war years, the rising hemline and clothes designed to 1 allow free movement.