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Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino: Full Transcript of the Interview
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AN ORAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FASHION Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino C1046/09 IMPORTANT Please refer to the Oral History curators at the British Library prior to any publication or broadcast from this document. Oral History The British Library 96 Euston Road London NW1 2DB United Kingdom +44 [0]20 7412 7404 [email protected] Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of this transcript, however no transcript is an exact translation of the spoken word, and this document is intended to be a guide to the original recording, not replace it. Should you find any errors please inform the Oral History curators. THE NATIONAL LIFE STORY COLLECTION INTERVIEW SUMMARY SHEET Ref. No.: C1046/09 Playback No.: F15198-99; F15388-90; F15531-35; F15591-92 Collection title: An Oral History of British Fashion Interviewee’s surname: Savage Title: Mr Interviewee’s forenames: Percy Sex: Occupation: Date of birth: 12.10.1926 Mother’s occupation: Father’s occupation: Date(s) of recording: 04.06.2004; 11.06.2004; 02.07.2004; 09.07.2004; 16.07.2004 Location of interview: Name of interviewer: Linda Sandino Type of recorder: Marantz Total no. of tapes: 12 Type of tape: C60 Mono or stereo: stereo Speed: Noise reduction: Original or copy: original Additional material: Copyright/Clearance: Interview is open. Copyright of BL Interviewer’s comments: Percy Savage Page 1 C1046/09 Tape 1 Side A (part 1) Tape 1 Side A [part 1] .....to plug it in? No we don’t. Not unless something goes wrong. [inaudible] see well enough, because I can put the [inaudible] light on, if you like? Yes, no, lovely, lovely, thank you. -
Westminsterresearch the Feminine Awkward
WestminsterResearch http://www.westminster.ac.uk/westminsterresearch The Feminine Awkward: Graceless Bodies and the Performance of Femininity in Fashion Photographs Shinkle, E. This is an Accepted Manuscript of an article published by Taylor & Francis in Fashion Theory, doi: 10.1080/1362704X.2016.1252524 The final definitive version is available online: https://dx.doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1252524 © 2017 Taylor & Francis The WestminsterResearch online digital archive at the University of Westminster aims to make the research output of the University available to a wider audience. Copyright and Moral Rights remain with the authors and/or copyright owners. Whilst further distribution of specific materials from within this archive is forbidden, you may freely distribute the URL of WestminsterResearch: ((http://westminsterresearch.wmin.ac.uk/). In case of abuse or copyright appearing without permission e-mail [email protected] The feminine awkward: graceless bodies and the performance of femininity in fashion photographs Eugenie Shinkle The past decade or so has seen fashion photography embracing a catalogue of uncomfortable attitudes. Anxious, embarrassed gazes. Knotted hands. Knees and elbows, necks and torsos, bent and folded at uncomfortable angles. Mottled skin and disembodied limbs. Grating, uneasy relationships between bodies and garments. This idiom, particularly prevalent within the alternative fashion press and increasingly within photographic art as well, is one that I’ve come to think of as the ‘feminine awkward’.1 Awkwardness, as I understand it here, is a negative or “agonistic” affect, organised by “trajectories of repulsion;” (Ngai 2005, 11) a feeling that tends to repel rather than to attract. It involves a combination of emotional and bodily unease – gawky, bumbling embarrassment and physical discomfort; a mild torment of body and mind. -
Great Expectations on Screen
UNIVERSIDAD AUTÓNOMA DE MADRID FACULTAD DE FILOSOFÍA Y LETRAS DEPARTAMENTO DE HISTORIA Y TEORÍA DEL ARTE TESIS DOCTORAL GREAT EXPECTATIONS ON SCREEN A Critical Study of Film Adaptation Violeta Martínez-Alcañiz Directoras de la Tesis Doctoral: Prof. Dra. Valeria Camporesi y Prof. Dra. Julia Salmerón Madrid, 2018 UNIVERSIDAD AUTÓNOMA DE MADRID FACULTAD DE FILOSOFÍA Y LETRAS DEPARTAMENTO DE HISTORIA Y TEORÍA DEL ARTE TESIS DOCTORAL GREAT EXPECTATIONS ON SCREEN A Critical Study of Film Adaptation Tesis presentada por Violeta Martínez-Alcañiz Licenciada en Periodismo y en Comunicación Audiovisual para la obtención del grado de Doctor Directoras de la Tesis Doctoral: Prof. Dra. Valeria Camporesi y Prof. Dra. Julia Salmerón Madrid, 2018 “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of light, it was the season of darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair” (Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities) “Now why should the cinema follow the forms of theater and painting rather than the methodology of language, which allows wholly new concepts of ideas to arise from the combination of two concrete denotations of two concrete objects?” (Sergei Eisenstein, “A dialectic approach to film form”) “An honest adaptation is a betrayal” (Carlo Rim) Table of contents ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 13 CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION 15 CHAPTER 2. LITERATURE REVIEW 21 Early expressions: between hostility and passion 22 Towards a theory on film adaptation 24 Story and discourse: semiotics and structuralism 25 New perspectives 30 CHAPTER 3. -
The Swinging Sixties
THE SWINGING SIXTIES The swinging sixties, the economical boom, A new way to make art, music and everything about the 60’s. “ SWINGING “ WHAT does “SWINGING“ mean? WHEN SOMETHING MOVES FORWARD AND BACKWARD, IT SWINGs. SWING STAnd FOR THE EASE OF DIFFUSION OF NEW INNOVATIVE TRENDS. WHAT WAS THE SWINGING 60’S? The swinging 60’s was a cultural revolution (or youth revolution) which started in UK and, then, it spread ALL IN the world. REVOLUTION So, This was a period of optimist, hedonism and a revolution in many fields: YOUTH MENTALITY; FASHION; MUSIC; ECONOMIC FIELD; ART; SOCIAL FIELDS. YOUTH REVOLUTION THE REVOLUTION STARTED FROM YOUNGER GENERATION: THEY BECAME MORE LIBERAL REBELLING AGAINST MANY SOCIAL VALUES; THEY DEMANDED SOCIAL/SEXUAL/RELIGIOUS FREEDOM; THEY LISTENED TO NEW MUSIC, WHICH TALKED ABOUT SOCIETY AND ITS PROBLEMS; THEY STARTED TO USE PSYCHEDELIC DRUGS; THEY PROTESTED AGAINST THE CONVENTIONS. FOCUS: THE HIPPIE GENERATION THE HIPPIE GENERATION (FLOWER CHILDREN) EMBRACED PHILOSOPHIES OF PEACE AND LOVE. THE LIVED IN COMMUNITY. THEY PROTESTED AGAINST THE STATUS QUO. THEY LIVING PROFESSING SEXUAL FREEDOM, DRUG USE, EQUALITY AND THE RESPECT FOR THE ENVIRONMENT. FASHION FREEDOM REVOLUTION STARTED FROM THE FASHION. SOME DESIGNERS INVENTED OR CHANGED THE WAY TO WEAR: MARY QUANT, FOR EXAMPLE, INVENTED THE MINISKIRT: A WAY TO EXPRESS FASHION FREEDOM; BARBARA HULANICKI: THE FOUNDER OF THE CLOTHES STORE biba, in london. NEW MUSIC IN THIS PERIOD THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION IN THE MARKET FOR MUSIC. NEW EMERGING BANDS BORN. SOME OF THESE WERE: THE BEATLES; ROLLING STONES; THE DOORS FOCUS: BOB DYLAN IN THIS PERIOD OF REVOLUTION MANY SINGERS WROTE SONG TO PROTEST. -
The Mini Skirt Danielle Hueston New York City College of Technology Textiles
The Mini Skirt Danielle Hueston New York City College of Technology Textiles When I was six my mother and I took one of our weekly day shopping trips to the mall. On our way back we stopped at this local thrift store. This being one of the first times I had ever experienced one, everything seemed so different and weird, in a good way. I wasn’t used to there only being one of everything, or one store that sold clothes, books, toys, home decor and shoes.Walking down the ‘bottoms aisle’ is where I first came across it. It was black and flowy, probably a cotton material, with a black elastic band around the waist. I wanted it, I needed it. It was the perfect mini skirt. It reminded me of the one I saw Regina George wear in the Hallway Scene in the movie ‘Mean Girls’ a few months prior and had to get it, even though it was a “little” big. There was only one, I was going to make it work. When Monday came I wasted no time showing off my new skirt at school. It made me feel like a whole new person. At some point of the day however my teacher had stepped out of the room to talk to another teacher, in conjunction one of my classmates playfully grabbed my pencil out of my hand, to which I decided to chase him around the room to retrieve it back. I tripped and my skirt fell right to my ankles, in front of the entire class. -
The Consolidation of Youth Lifestyle in the 1960S: Swinging London Through the Drapers’ Record Magazine
Journalism and Mass Communication, April 2016, Vol. 6, No. 4, 221-225 doi: 10.17265/2160-6579/2016.04.005 D DAVID PUBLISHING The Consolidation of Youth Lifestyle in the 1960s: Swinging London Through The Drapers’ Record Magazine Maíra Zimmermann Armando Alvares Penteado Foundation (FAAP), São Paulo, Brazil This paper discusses how consumerism boosted youth lifestyle in the 1960s—mainly through modern magazines (particularly in Britain) and built a territorial symbolic identity through fashion. In the 1960s, the consolidation of youth culture becomes an international phenomenon. With the development of ready-to-wear, adolescents begin to be target as a consumer market. The music and fashion industries unite to create and advertise youth lifestyle. The fashion shifts from Paris to London. Magazine articles and publicity set the latest trends. The method applied is research in primary source—the British journal The Drapers’ Record—aiming to recognize fashion transformation and juvenilization in this period of time. The magazine shows ads and fashion editorials (mainly feminine), articles and news about fashion trend. There is also a brands guide for shoppers and retailers. The magazines used in the research are from 1964 to 1967, July and August issues, when the fall-winter trends are shown. From 1964 on, we notice the orientation towards a juvenile market and style, but these trends will only fully materialize through 1967. It leads to the conclusion that between 1965 and 1967 fashion juvenilization developed, reached its peak and global range. Keywords: youth culture, 1960s, trend, media Introduction: Consolidation of Youth Culture in the 1960s In the 1960s, the consolidation of youth culture becomes an international phenomenon. -
1950S, 1960S and 1970S Word Search
1950s, 1960s and 1970s wordsearch B E A T L E S H E L E R O R V T E A P G G Y L O X S L A D E M I N I V L T U V C E R W S I D I L N O P Y G G I W T A S I B A L L R W R A T F A N C O R O N A T I O N M G B N A M W I N D A Q E S B T Y E E S L A C E A T W S P A C E R A C E M O B P A B N M A S W Q A N N A N P L A P E B O N E N N A M E A P L E A E S R G A R A T I O N I N G N L R A P P N O L U N A M E K I R T O P T R M A N S O M A N T E I V H Y B U N P L K I R E D D A S C H O P P E R B I K E O P E A G L E C O M I C Words to find: Beatles - An English rock band formed in Liverpool in 1960. Comprising John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr, they are regarded as the most influential band of all time with well known hits, 'Hey Jude', 'I Want to Hold Your Hand' and 'Here comes the sun'. -
Completeandleft
MEN WOMEN 1. JA Jason Aldean=American singer=188,534=33 Julia Alexandratou=Model, singer and actress=129,945=69 Jin Akanishi=Singer-songwriter, actor, voice actor, Julie Anne+San+Jose=Filipino actress and radio host=31,926=197 singer=67,087=129 John Abraham=Film actor=118,346=54 Julie Andrews=Actress, singer, author=55,954=162 Jensen Ackles=American actor=453,578=10 Julie Adams=American actress=54,598=166 Jonas Armstrong=Irish, Actor=20,732=288 Jenny Agutter=British film and television actress=72,810=122 COMPLETEandLEFT Jessica Alba=actress=893,599=3 JA,Jack Anderson Jaimie Alexander=Actress=59,371=151 JA,James Agee June Allyson=Actress=28,006=290 JA,James Arness Jennifer Aniston=American actress=1,005,243=2 JA,Jane Austen Julia Ann=American pornographic actress=47,874=184 JA,Jean Arthur Judy Ann+Santos=Filipino, Actress=39,619=212 JA,Jennifer Aniston Jean Arthur=Actress=45,356=192 JA,Jessica Alba JA,Joan Van Ark Jane Asher=Actress, author=53,663=168 …….. JA,Joan of Arc José González JA,John Adams Janelle Monáe JA,John Amos Joseph Arthur JA,John Astin James Arthur JA,John James Audubon Jann Arden JA,John Quincy Adams Jessica Andrews JA,Jon Anderson John Anderson JA,Julie Andrews Jefferson Airplane JA,June Allyson Jane's Addiction Jacob ,Abbott ,Author ,Franconia Stories Jim ,Abbott ,Baseball ,One-handed MLB pitcher John ,Abbott ,Actor ,The Woman in White John ,Abbott ,Head of State ,Prime Minister of Canada, 1891-93 James ,Abdnor ,Politician ,US Senator from South Dakota, 1981-87 John ,Abizaid ,Military ,C-in-C, US Central Command, 2003- -
Housing, Memory and the Post-War State: Resident Experiences, Regeneration and the Council Estate in Manchester, 1945-2010
Housing, Memory and the Post-War State: Resident Experiences, Regeneration and the Council Estate in Manchester, 1945-2010 A thesis submitted to the University of Manchester for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Faculty of Humanities 2015 Paula Smalley School of Arts, Languages and Cultures Table of Contents Table of Figures 4 Abbreviations 6 Abstract 7 Declaration 8 Copyright Statement 9 Acknowledgements 10 Introduction - Housing, Memory and the Post-War State 12 The ‘Problem’ Estate 14 Persistent Narratives of British Council Housing 18 Testimonies of Experience 30 The Structure of the Thesis 41 Chapter One - House and Home in Post-War Britain 47 Home as Social Policy 53 Home as Emotional Practice 73 Narrating the State on the Council Estate 88 Conclusion 97 Chapter Two - The Remembered Slum 100 The Legitimating ‘Slum’ 107 What Was, and What Ought to Be 123 Separating ‘Slum’ and Community 131 Conclusion 141 Chapter Three - Dreaming of the New World, Living in the New World 144 The State’s Narratives 150 ‘Outsider’ Narratives 163 ‘Insider’ Narratives 179 A Return to Clearance: On-going Beliefs in the Power of the Environment 189 Conclusion 208 Chapter Four - Regeneration: Continuities in the Inner City 211 The Uses of Neoliberalism 220 Continuities in British Regeneration Practice 225 Is Regeneration Novel? Case Studies of Grove Village and West Gorton 242 Conclusion 257 Conclusion 259 Bibliography 266 Primary Material 266 Archival Sources 266 Online Archives and Sources 269 Printed Primary Sources 269 2 Newspapers, Trade Journals and Magazines 272 Oral History Interviews 272 Television and Film 273 Websites 273 Secondary Material 274 Articles 274 Books 286 Unpublished Theses 292 Working Papers and Research Papers 293 Appendix I 294 Example Recruitment Flyer (West Gorton) 294 Example Recruitment Poster/Flyer (Ardwick/Longsight) 295 Appendix II 296 Sample Interview Questions 296 Word Count: 72, 114 3 Table of Figures Figure 1.1 Ardwick Grove Village 1200m. -
Series Contemporánea
Duffy Bowie Series Contemporánea Press Release DUFFY BOWIE SERIES La Térmica, Málaga From February 14th to March 23rd 2014 Curator: Mario Martín Pareja David Bowie, Scary Monsters, 1979 © Duffy Archive Curated by Mario Martín Pareja, La Térmica presents the photographic series which document the relationship between David Bowie and Brian Duffy, the man who change the face of British and European Photography “Duffy was a commercial photographer, a picture-maker for paying clients in the worlds of fashion, marketing and the print media... An anarchic, abrasive, provocative young talent in 60s London who precisely sensed the seismic shifts in British culture that could allow him to invent himself as one of the most successful of a new breed of fashionable photographers.” Philippe Garner, International Head of Photography, Christie’s Duffy, 1986 © Trevor Leighton Contemporánea Contact [email protected] Mario Martín www.contemporanea.org +34 686 265 924 Duffy Bowie Series Contemporánea DUFFY BOWIE SERIES “Bowie Series” opening will be on February 14 at La Termica, an artspace created by Malaga Diputacion Provincial. This exhibition is a visual record of the photographic genius. Duffy’s newly restored body of work firmly cements his place in British photography as part of the notorious “Black Trinity” that defined the visual language of swinging sixties London and pre-Punk era. The exhibition includes a unique collection of photographs never before seen behind the scenes images will feature in the exhibition. “Duffy. Bowie Series” comprises of images taken during five photographic sessions with iconic musician David Bowie, released to coincide with the Victoria and Albert Museum’s ‘David Bowie is’ exhibition in Sao Paolo (Brazil). -
The Swinging Sixties
The Swinging Sixties 3 Leggi i brani e rispondi alle domande. The idea of ‘teenagers’, with their own style of clothes and music, originated in the USA in the 1950s. Rock and Roll was born there, and Elvis Presley was the first global rock star. People all around the world are still interested in American music, films and celebrities. But in the 1960s, Britain, not the USA, was the centre of the world’s pop culture! Music The Beatles were the best-selling British band in history and their influence on modern music is enormous. They were international superstars in the 1960s and they had millions of fans. It was often impossible to hear the music at Beatles’ concerts because of the screaming! But there were lots of other very successful British pop groups in that decade and the trendiest place in the world was ‘Swinging’ London. The UK’s capital city was the home of the Rolling Stones and lots of other pop stars. The Beatles moved there from Liverpool in 1963 and worked at the famous recording studios on Abbey Road. Glossary screaming urla swinging vivace, dinamica, alla moda recording studios studi di registrazione 1 Where did the idea of ‘teenagers’ originate? 2 What was the name of the best-selling British band in history? 3 When did the Beatles move to London? 4 Where were their recording studios in London? Go Live! Level 2 Culture C, pp.212–213 © Oxford University Press PHOTOCOPIABLE Fashion The biggest fashion invention of the 1960s was the miniskirt. Girls in the 1950s wore long, wide skirts, but in 1964 everything changed. -
Ultimate Londoner Quiz Questions
ULTIMATE LONDONER QUIZ QUESTIONS 1. Which year did the iconic music venue the 100 Club put on its very first show? 2. How many times have Arsenal won the FA Cup? 3. Who designed the Barbican Centre, a famous example of Brutalist architecture? 4. Inside the Imperial War Museum, what vital piece of equipment was kept behind a locked door in the Churchills Cabinet War Rooms? 5. How many languages do the staff at the City Information Centre speak? 6. What is it that all London City Guides wear so you know you are dealing with the real thing? 7. The Trocadero opened in 1896, but what business did it originally house? 8. At Dabbers we say the call for 88 is two body positive ladies but what was the original call for that number? 9. What is the scientific name for the process commonly called tree ring dating: 10. At the Horniman Museum the most famous taxidermy specimen weighs a ton, has his own twitter account and even went on holiday to Margate, but what type of animal is he? 11. What is the highest mountain in Nepal? 12. In which popular TV comedy series did a group of friends organise a stag do in London music venue Jago Dalston? 13. The Kenton is a Scandi pub in Hackney, but which Scandinavian Country is it from? 14. The central icon of the cult, is the God Mithras slaying an animal - which animal is it? 15. At the London Museum of Water and Steam you can see the large tower from the M4 when you've driven past, but what is it for? 16.