INSPIRATIONAL KNOWLEDGE AND THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE DRINK

September 2019

WebAuction special

A LONG HISTORY OF VALTELLINA’S A STAR RETURNS TO ITS ROOTS IN DOMAINE ET CHATEAUX VÉRONIQUE NEBBIOLO GRAPES BOURGOGNE GÜNTHER-CHÉREAU PAGE 30 PAGE 37 PAGE 14

PAGE 9 CECCHI - - THE ART OF GETTING TO KNOW YOUR OWN GRAPES. PAGE 14 DOMAINE ET CHÂTEAUX VERONIQUE GÜNTHER- CHÉREAU PAGE 19 ABRUZZO SHARPENS ITS CLAWS PAGE 26 A LOVELY COMBINATION OF ART AND PAGE 30 A LONG HISTORY OF VALTELLINA’S NEBBIOLO GRAPES PAGE 33 RIEDLIN BRILLANT AND TRESTER – TWO REALLY GOOD INVESTMENTS PAGE 37 EA STAR RETURNS TO ITS ROOTS IN BOURGOGNE PAGE 41 SWEDEN CELEBRATES 20 YEARS AS A WINE-GROWING COUNTRY PAGE 46 ALCOHOL-FREE – A HUMAN RIGHT PAGE 48 EAGERLY AWAITING THE DRIVE… PAGE 49 IT IS FINALLY HERE… PAGE 54 HOW DALMORE L´ANIMA BECAME THE WORLD’S MOST VALUABLE SINGLE MALT PAGE 57 SWEDISH WINE PRODUCER OF THE YEAR

WEBAUCTION SPECIAL: PAGE 60 BONHAM LAUNCHES AUTUMN WINE SEASON WITH BUMPER SALE PAGE 61 THE DIS- TINGUISHED CELLAR OF A PIONEERING COLLECTOR PAGE 62 THE ULTIMATE WHISKY COLLECTION PAGE 65 . PAGE 67 SOTHEBY´S RARE & SPIRITS FROM THE CELLAR OF GRAHAM LYONS & OTHER COLLEC- TIONS. PAGE 69 HART DAVIS HART WINE CO ANNOUNCES FALL & WINTER 2019 AUCTION SCHEDULE. PAGE 70 CHRIS- TIE´S FINEST AND RAREST WINES INCLUDING THREE SUPERB1 PRIVATE COLLECTIONS 11 OCT NY PAGE 72 ORNELLAIA VENDEMMIA D ’ARTISTA EDITORIAL

QUALITY IS ALWAYS MORE IMPORTANT THAN QUANTITY

Another warm, pleasant summer has gone by, and in our part of the world, autumn and darkness are on the way. Times that are made to enjoy fine wines with spicy dinners together with mush- rooms and truffles and other little things. Something to really look forward to. In England, Wine Intelligence announces that the consumption of sparkling wines has decreased for the first time in many years. The reason is that wine-drinking consumers are getting younger and choosing quality instead of quantity. As usual in Fine Wine, we celebrate with lots of interesting reading and focus on what is happening OVE CANEMYR Chefredaktör in the wine world right now, and which beverage auctions should not be missed around the world. Fine Wine –the on-line Magazine in a glass of its own! Read more about what’s happening in Europe, namely in and, more specifically, Abruzzo on www.FineWine.nu the Adriatic coast right now. Ursula Hellberg writes about the art of getting to know her grapes with Cecchi. We stay in Italy and visit Villa Sandi and then at Nino Negro. In and Burgundy, a star has returned home. We look forward to telling you how it happened and who the star is. We stay in France, but this time with Veronique Günther and her daughter Au- rore at Domaine et Châteaux Véronique Günther-Chéreau in Muscadet. They have really high ambi- tions, which is great reason to learn more in the article. And don’t miss the two Italian guest players in Stockholm: Nebbiolo from the Alps and Taste of Italy. Both are very appreciated events. Staying in Sweden, we ask Ursula to tell us more about some Swedish wine producers that she spoke with. Then we let Moa Gurbuzer at ODDBIRD tell us more about the advent and thoughts behind an alco- hol-free champagne that sells over 400,000 bottles a year… We focus on Canima Gin from Venezuela - a new star in the ever-expanding gin market and, as usu- al, Christopher Jarnvall tells us more about his latest hunting adventures and which drinks are best for that. In Webauction Special, the spotlight is, as always, placed on the Beverage Auctions around the world that are just about to start. A warm welcome to the fall installation of Fine Wine!

FINE WINE - THE ON-LINE MAGAZINE Please share you tips and ideas on anything of interest: occasions, meetings, , producers, investing, etc… [email protected]. We are not responsible for unsolicited material. Feel free to cite Fine Wine, but remember to quote us as the source.

REDAKTION: Ove Canemyr, Editor-in-chief, Fine Wine /Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout: Sophie L. Slettengren, byDesign AB, [email protected] English texts; Todd Bünger [email protected] Coverphoto: Anne-Marie Canemyr Motiv: Tenuta Rocca di Montemassi

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VINTAGE 2019 IN NEW ZEALAND: SMALL BUT STUNNING POMMERY BRUT ROYAL A wonderfully warm summer has contributed to a superb IN A NEW WOODEN BOX for New Zealand’s wine regions, with 413,000 tons of Pommery Brut Royal Rosé has been grapes harvested during Vintage 2019. fitted with a new wooden box that is Although smaller than anticipated, the quality of the is adorned with sakura flowers. The pack- being touted as exceptional from top of the North to bottom age thus matches the high-quality pink of the South Island. champagne that has been stored for 36 months and is made from , New Zealand Winegrowers CEO Philip Gregan says a high-quality harvest is and Pinot Meunier grapes. good news for the industry as export growth continues, with an increase of 4% to $1.78 billion over the last year. The price is also attractive. Just 439 SEK for this fantastic pink champagne. Yum. “We have an international reputation for premium quality and innovation. Every vintage is different, but are excited about the caliber of wine that Item # in Sweden is 72322. will be delivered to the bottle and we are confident 2019 vintage wines will be enjoyed by consumers around the world.”

VALLEGARCÍA HAS OBTAINED ITS OWN PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN In the same year in which the founded by Alfonso Cortina is celebrating the 20th anniversary of its first , the Official Journal of the European Un- ion has named Vallegarcía as a Protect- ed Designation of Origin. Vallegarcía has thus obtained the pro- tection of its vineyard, planted on one of the Iberian Peninsula’s oldest soils.

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A LEGENDARY MAISON LOUIS MAX VINTAGE IN A BIB n äkta Since their beginning in1859, in Buorgogne’s Nuits-Saint-Georg- es, Maison Louis Max has always put quality first. That is why their new BiB 2018 Grand Cuvée Rouge is filled with 100% Ga- may grapes picked from specially-selected vineyards in the ipasso heart of Beaujolais. Ripasso innebär en andra jäsning på skalen från Guerrieri Rizzardis två Grand Cuvée Rouge is an elegant, fresh and fruit-filled . amarones som är högt premierade Velvety-smooth tannins contribute to the overall beauty of the och fl era gånger har utsetts till en av wine, and the taste is full of berries – ripe-red cherries, wild rasp- världens bästa Amarones. Resultatet blir en elegant Ripasso, berries, forest berries and herbs. This wine has a long finish that torr, med kryddig doft och inslag includes a touch of spices. av mörka bär som körsbär, torkade rosor och härlig fatkaraktär. The legendary 2018 vintage found in Maison Louis Max’s Grand Cuvée Rouge BiB is currently available at most of Sweden’s Sys- tembolaget shops. This wine provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a quality wine at a reasonable price. 289:- SEK. Don’t miss out. Enjoy.

“...Välgjord Ripasso...” SVD Vin&Mat 24 maj 2017

“Stark rekommendation, bra kvalitativt vin” 88p i Livets goda våren 2017

Art nr: 75810 || Pris: 130 kr

Alkohol kan skada din hälsa.

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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE VINTAGE THE GRAPES ARE THE BATTE- OF THE CENTURY? RIES IN Do NOT miss La Cour des Papes – the new vintage. 2016 in The statement comes Chateauneuf-du-Pape is said to be the vintage of the cen- from Roberto Henri- tury. Craftsmanship of the utmost quality combined with quez of Santa Cruz de hand-picked grapes from 15 different vineyards, joined to- Coya Pais in Chile. He gether and aged in French barrels. has 3 hectares of vit- iculture consisting of The 2016 vintage is available in shops for the appealing price 200-year-non-grafted of 189:- SEK. Anyone in Sweden looking to find a great deal vines. Because there need not look farther than item number 74604 at System- is a lot of wind there, bolaget. you do not have the disadvantages with too much moisture. SUCCESSFUL PREMIERE FOR THE NEW MUNDUS VINI The cool climate and the long hang- NORDIC COMPETITION ing time contribute to healthy, crispy Meininger Förlag and Wines of promotes export efforts for German and aromatic grapes. The grapes’ winegrowers. growing area consists of granite-rich soil. The ancient vines grow as bush Scandinavia has grown into one of the most important export markets for Ger- vines (vines that grow as free-stand- man wines, which has inspired Meininger Verlag and Wines of Germany (Deutsche ing bushes). The harvest is done by Wein Institute, DWI) to jointly establish the competition MUNDUS VINI NORDIC. hand, and when it comes to the wine The judges in the competition have been chosen almost exclusively from the tasting, you can really talk about min- Scandinavian countries to ensure that the winning wines reflect the taste of the imal intervention, which is also very Scandinavian consumers. common in this region. All work is A panel of 53 jurors gathered in Co- done manually and with the help of penhagen for two days in mid-June four-legged animals. Destalking is this year. The panel was made up of done by hand using a wooden sieve. wine journalists, , wine Fermentation takes place in large merchants, importers, and key play- open wooden barrels made from Chil- ers in the Nordic alcohol monopolies. ean Rauli wood. During the fermenta- A whopping 660 wines from 200 dif- tion period, the pulp is pressed manu- ferent producers were ally twice a day. No clarification or fil- tasted in order to award prizes for the tration is done and only natural yeast best German wines in eleven differ- is used in the fermentation. A pinch ent categories. The jury’s hard work, of sulfur is added at only one point in thorough analysis and carefully-made the process, giving the low sulfur con- selections resulted in a successful pre- tent of only 20 mg / l.Available at Sys- miere for the first MUNDUS VINI NOR- tembolaget in Sweden from October DIC competition. 4th. Item # 95430 Price 189 SEK

5 NOTICE En kraftfull

NEW CRU DESIGNATION IN MUSCADET klassiskDecanter Although the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, founded in 1936, is one of France’s oldest ap- pellations, its Cru designations are relative- Guldmedalj! ly new. In total, there are ten so-called Cru när Communaux distributed over 200 hectares and 100 growers. The first three approved Cru Communaux were officially recognized in 2011 (Clisson, Gorge, Le Pallet) and four more were approved in June 2019 (Gou- den ärAftonbladet 2017 laine, Château-Thébaud, Mouzillon-Tillières, Monnières-Saint Fiacre) Now, another 3 Cru ”Topptrevlig Rioja med Communaux are awaiting approval (La Haye som bästålder och stil” Fouassière, Vallet, Champtoceaux). Château du Coing L’Ancestrale 2015 is a Cru Commu- Elke Ljung 2018 naux from Monniéres Saint Fiacre which this summer was approved by INAO. Also, Châ- teau de la Gravelle 2014 is a Cru Commu- Pris: naux from Gorge. These wines rest 42 and 54 Klassisk Rioja med sj149u år påkr nacken months respectively on their lees! - rika svartvinbärstoner med körsbär, choklad och vanilj. Bäst till hemgrillade FACTS hamburgare. • All wines from Cru Communaux must rest at least 18 - 24 months on their lees. Mikael Mölstad - SVD 12.07.2015 • A wine grown in this area is not automat- ically eligible for Cru Communaux status, but must first be inspected by a responsi- Alkoholhalt 13,5 %, 750ml ble vigneron, the wine must meet criteria 12601 Art nr: 12601 within the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, “Cru” PRIS 149 kr Conde de Valdemar status must be applied for, a jury will judge WWW.SIGVA.SE the wine, and then there is a list of criteria to be followed. The wine is then certified 60 days before bottling. All bottles have a unique numbering. • In order to be officially recognized as a Cru Communaux, the INAO (Institut National Att börja dricka i tidigdes Appellations ålder d’Origine) and the French Alkohol kan state must give approved. Since June 2019, another three areas have been officially ökar risken för alkoholprecognizedroblem. as Cru Communaux. skada din hälsa. Read more at https://www.muscadet.fr/en/ muscadet-terroirs-2/the-crus-communaux/

SIG0089 Conde Valdemar GR Expressen Halvsida 149x360.indd 1 2018-10-03 10:24

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BRITS LOVE ”PINK GIN” – KOPPARBERG HAD TO CHANGE THEIR PLANS Producer Kopparberg’s British launch of their Kopparberg’s Gin has far more than ex- ceeded expectations. The unexpected high demand has forced the company to put further international launches on hold until the end of the year and into 2020, accord- ing to their quarterly report. What happened was that during the second quarter a fla- vored gin was launched in England, Kopparberg Premium Gin which is a so-called “pink gin” with a strawberry/lime taste. Initially, the launch at over 700 pubs took place at British pub operator Greene King. Stage 2 saw a launch at selected retailers in the UK, and then sales began to rapidly increase, so much that the launch outside of England had to be put on hold. EXQUISITE MONASTRELL TAS- “The Pink Gin segment is the fastest-growing beverage seg- TING WITH DANIEL CASTAÑO ment in the UK market. Our gin sales have far exceeded our Text & photo: Ursula Hellberg expectations and it will be very interesting to follow its devel- Monastrell may not be the grape that opment for the rest of the year,” CEO Peter Bronsman writes has been associated with quality wines. in a comment. As one of ’s most cultivated blue grape varieties, it has instead often found itself ending up in bulk wine. But not always. The Castaño family in Yecla LAURENT HABARD has been winegrowers for over a hun- CROZES-HERMITAGE 2017 dred years and has taken on the task of Laurent Habard Crozes-Hermitage 2017 refining this grape variety. From the old has made a big impression in ’s vineyards situated at a height of more big tasting, which included more than than 700 meters, the grapes are harvest- 16,534 wines. Their wine won Platinum ed which, under Mariano and was among the top 50 Best-in-Show Lopez’s indulgence, results in well-bal- wines. The happy winery from Rhône anced wines with both body, tannins LETH HAS DONE IT AGAIN can’t be disappointed with 97 points. and flexibility. 2018 was a good year in Austria, and now a Systembolaget has this wine on their When Daniel Castaño, the fourth gen- series of four different 2018 Grüner Veltlin- shelves. eration from Bodega Castaño, recently er have landed on Sweden’s Systembola- visited Stockholm, he hosted a tasting get’s shelves. Leth Duett 2018 – & Yum! with several of the bodega’s wines. It grüner in beautiful harmony, perfect with was particularly interesting to be able to wienerschnitzel or fondue! Item number compare the development of the wines 4587, Price: 89 SEK. Leth Grüner Veltliner over several at the same time. Klassik 2018 – classic Austrian grüner. Item These are wines that can be stored. number 4200, Price: 89 SEK. Leth Grüner Veltliner Familien Reserve 2018 – good Among the wines tasted, Castaño Col- wine with food that easily gets better with leción, Santa and Casa de la Cera, in age. Item number 76570, Price: 119 SEK. particular, were distinguished by one Leth Grüner Veltliner Terrassen 2018 - 375 or more other grape varieties. Their ml, small stylish bottle that is beautiful on Casa Cisca shows the potential of the the table. A youthful, fruit-filled Austrian Monastrell grape. The wine is made us- grüner veltliner. Please note that this wine ing only Monastrell, most from over 100 is sold in small bottles. Item number 2961, years old vines. Lastly, we also need to Price: 55 SEK. Very price-worthy together mention the affordable with anything you serve this fall. Castaño Dulce.

7 HYLLNING TILL VÄRLDENS FÖRSTA AMARONE

Historien om Bolla tog sin början 1883 när restaurang ­ ägaren Abele Bolla saknade viner av god kvalitet att servera gästerna på sina restauranger runt om i Valpolicella. Abele tog saken i egna händer och vinerna blev snabbt populära. Bolla var också de första att sälja ett vin betecknat Ama- rone och på 130­årsjubileet lanserade man därför Amarone Riserva “Le Origini” (originalet) som en hyllning till detta. Le Origini tillverkas bara vid exceptionellt bra årgångar. Detta är ett vin som redan har lagrats flera år men som du kan lagra – länge! Upp till 20 år går det att spara en flaska Bolla Le Origini i en bra källare. Varje flaska levereras i en trälåda som gjord för källaren.

Finns inte vinet i din butik så be personalen beställa hem. 389 kr BOLLA LE ORIGINI AMARONE CLASSICO RISERVA 2013 varunr. 73426. 15% vol.

www.domainewines.se Varannan förare som omkommer i singelolyckor i trafiken är alkoholpåverkad.

8 CECCHI - THE ART OF GETTING TO KNOW YOUR OWN GRAPES TEXT & PHOTO: URSULA HELLBERG

One could say that Chianti Classico begins with Villa Cerna, the first of the wine hills of the Chianti Classico DOCG, beautifully situated at a height of 280 meters. Andrea Cecchi, fourth generation wine producer, lives here today. Five million years ago, the place was surrounded by a sea. If you look a little closer to the earth where the vines grow, you will see plenty of seashells and other marine fossils. Investigating both the soil and the grapes is important for the result. The Cecchi family knows that.

VILLA CERNA IS LOCATED ON THE FIRST HILL OF WINE IN THE CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG.

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9 Last year, the Cecchi family celebrat- PROJECT CHIANTI CLASSICO characteristics of the Sangioves grape ed its 125th anniversary. It can seem 2000 that is so important to Chianti. The like a rather youthful age for a wine So, it wasn’t surprising when in 1987, information collected was extensive producer in Tuscany, an area with they decided to join the “Chianti and came from soil, plants, weather vineyard traditions for more than a Classico 2000” project carried out stations and plant laboratories. millennium. But looking back has by Consorzio del Chianti Classico in The experiences from Chianti Clas- never been the Cecchi family’s motto. collaboration with and the sico 2000 have been of great benefit Instead, people have always looked University of Siena. The main pur- to Cecchi. The new clones that have ahead and been receptive to develop- pose of this project was to identify the been obtained are now combined ment. with the plant site that best suits them. The earth here is old and it has been an extensive work to go through its properties. To get a good vineyard, you need to have a balance between clones and soil - the right plant in the right soil! The locations of the plant sites and how they are exposed to sun and wind also mean different harvest times. The grapes are therefore har- vested and vinified separately before the work in the cellar begins.

CLONE AFTER EVERY SOIL TYPE Miria Bracali is the chief winemaker and one of the key people at Cecchi. She has worked there since 1998. Initially, she trained as a chemist, but an acquaintance got her inter- ested in a different route. She does not work alone, rather together with a well-functioning team of agrono- mists and consultants. The biggest challenge for her is Chianti Classico. To get something you recognize. “The sangioves grapes are chamele- ons. When you separate the different parts, you get to know the different styles,” she explains. To the classic question of whether the greatest work is required in the win- ery or vineyards, she answers without hesitation: ”The vineyard requires the most MARINE FOSSILS ARE ABUNDANT IN VILLA CERNA. WINE IS NOW GROWN WHERE THERE WAS A SEA MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO. work. It is still the quality of the >>>

10 MIRIA BRACALI IS THE CHIEF WINEMAKER FOR THE CECCHI … TOGETHER WITH AGRONOMIST GIUSEPPE MEZZEDIMI THEY FAMILY… ARE A STRONG TEAM.

grapes that is crucial, in the first place. from Villa Cerna, and both are made I work very closely with the agrono- using 95 percent . The rest mists and we keep track of the grapes. is the colorful local grape Colorino. You can say that from August to Sep- The name Primocolle means “first tember I live more or less in the vine- hill,” and of course alludes to the yard,” she says jokingly. vineyard’s unique location. Just about half an hour from Vil- la Cerna is their second property in VILLA CERNA AND VILLA PINK VINEYARD WINES WITH IDENTITY Chianti Classico, Villa Rosa. It covers 126 hectares. Of these, 36 are vine- The newly acquired knowledge yards and 15 are olive trees. There is means that Cecchi focuses on produc- also one of Europe’s largest stocks of ing vineyard wines. Chianti Classico cypress trees. The oldest are as old as wines that are easy to recognize and 1000 years. have identity. Both Primocolle Villa ANDREA CECCHI POINTS OUT THE DIF- Cerna and Villa Cerna Riserva come FERENT PLANT SITES AT VILLA ROSA.

>>> 11 GRAN SELEZIONE meaning a cold winter, mild and hu- Villa Rosa is located higher above the mid spring, summer with good tem- sea than Villa Cerna and consists of perature and moderate rain. After the Casetto vineyards, which are at fermentation in stainless steel tanks, most 425 meters high. Ribaldoni, a 15-month period in French oak Palagione and Villa are between 150 barrels followed. Then, three months and 220 meters lower. They are cur- before bottling, the wine was allowed rently replanting the vines over 50 to rest in cement tanks that provide years old. a natural oxidation. Two years after harvest, the wine was bottled, which It was the Villa Rosa grapes that Cec- PHOTO TEXT: CESARE AND ANDREA ARE was then allowed to rest for at least THE FOURTH-GENERATION WINEMAKERS chi decided to produce his first Gran IN THE CECCHI FAMILY. another year before it was released. Selezione. The year was 2015, and 2015, is therefore the only vintage the weather gods had been helpful, gnano, Val delle Rose in Maremma that is currently available on the and the recent acquisition, Tenuta market. Next year will be their Gran di Montalcino, which is next door Selezione 2016. to Sant’Antimo. Cecchi also owns The Cecchi family property in Chi- Tenuta Alzatura property outside the anti Classico has gradually been ex- town of Montefalco in Umbria. It panded with other interesting areas will be interesting to follow the devel- in Tuscany: Montaùto in San Gimi- opment.

RESTAURANT LA FORESTERIA IS NEXT DOOR TO VILLA CERNA. OUTSIDE THE ENTRANCE IS THIS GIANT GRAPE BUNCH MADE BY OLD DAMEJEANS.

RIBALDONI IS A WINE THAT IS WELL-SUITED TO ITALIAN CUISINE.

THE FIRST VINTAGES OF CECCHIS GRAN SELEZIONE. 2016 IS STILL IN STORAGE AND WILL ONLY BE RELEASED NEXT YEAR.

12 Champagne de Castelnau Brut Reserve

Ripasso innebär en andra jäsning på skalen från Guerrieri Rizzardis två amarones som är högt Aftonbladet, dec 18 premierade och flera gånger har utsetts till en av världens bästa Amarones. RNATION TE AL Resultatet blir en elegant Ripasso, IN torr,W med D IN N E

kryddig doft och inslag av mörkaA bär som körsbär,A R W G A torkade rosor och härlig fatkaraktär.t ® s R

1 MUNDUS D 2 vini GOLD

ME 7 ININGER 201 l m 75 0 , % 2,5 1 t ol ha l

lko h Pris: A

Art nr: 76191 329 kr

sigva.se

Hälften av alla som drunknar har alkohol i blodet.

13 DOMAINE ET CHÂTEAUX VÉRONIQUE GÜNTHER–CHÉREAU

Chateau du Coing is located in the western area of the , precisely at the conflu- ence of the Sèvre and Maine. This is where the Chéreau family has been making wine for hundreds of years. The family has its roots in Muscadet’s mineral-rich topsoil since the 14th century and their Domaine is one of the oldest vineyards in Nantes.

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14 Today, the 67 hectares of cultiva- in perfect shape. Some of them are tion are run by Veronique Chéreau, more than 100-years old,” says Ve- who took over responsibility for the ronique. vineyard in 2003, after her father Véronique´s daughter Aurore had been in charge for 30 years. joined in 2011, after recently com- Veronique is driven by a great pas- pleting her education. sion for the authentic and histori- These days they run the operation cal production of Muscadet and its together as Mother and Daughter grape Melon de Bourgogne. in very charming, harmonic way. ”When I took over in 2003, I de- The first change Aurore contribut- cided to put most of our focus ed to was converting about 25 hec- on quality. As winemakers, we tares to production, shouldn’t strive to acquire new which was not initially popular land, we should make the best of with those working in the domain. what we have. We maintain our soil and vineyards and keep them

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15 Although mother and daugh- This very thorough work has given The second area, Grand Fief de la ter often have disagreements, it is the winery the quality name “Cru Cormeraie, is a 5 ha area located Véronique who decides. “Mom is Communal,” which describes the in Monnières, in the heart of the the boss until she dies,” Aurore says best of the larger cultivation Muscadet. Its soil consists of 40 a little jokingly. They both have a area. centimeters of clay and pebbly soil, strong desire to once again lift re- TODAY, THE PRODUCER MANA- as well as mica and garnet soil. ally good Muscadet out onto the GES THREE AREAS: The third area, Château de la Grav- world stage and lift it up from the Château du Coing stretches over elle, extends over 17 hectares in prejudices that exist around the 45 ha in Saint Fiacre sur Maine, Gorges. The soil consists of volcan- wines that the large cooperatives at the foot of Massif Armoricain. ic rock called Gabbro, which is cov- have on the market. These wine locations are south-fac- ered by a thick layer of clay. Wines The producer also has several siz- ing in the direction of the sea. The from this area give a lot of structure es of tanks which means that the soil consists of two layers of mica and mineral citrus aromas. different parts of the vineyards can and garnet-rich soil. This soil pro- be handled separately in the win- vides lively aromatic and generous ery, and they are never mixed. The wines with mineral tones. wines then rest on lees until they are bottled. >>>

16 INFORMATION CHÂTEAU DE LA GRAVELLE GORG- ES 2014 Golden appearance. Fruits and a com- plex bouquet. Fine structure with pal- pable minerality. A well-balanced wine with tastes of white fruits and white flowers with a buttery finish. Item # 79304 (can be ordered) Price 169 SEK

CHÂTEAU DU COING L´ANCESTRALE MONNIÉRES SAINT FIACRE 2015 Golden appearance. Lively and full of taste with tones of green apples, citrus aromas and finely balanced minerality. Long, smooth aftertaste. Can be aged for 20 years. Item # 75861 (can be ordered) Price 199 SEK

CHÂTEAU DU COING COMTE DE SAINT HUBERT 2010 Golden appearance. Lively and full of taste with tones of green apples, citrus aromas and finely balanced minerality. Long, smooth aftertaste. Can be aged for 20 years. Item # 75861 (can be ordered) Price 199 SEK

DOMAINE DE LA BOURNAIRE Fruit-filled youthful taste with hints of pears, green apples, minerals, herbs, white currants and citrus. Serve as an aperitif with fish or shellfish at 8-10 de- grees C. Item # 5799 Price 109 SEK

Véronique Günther–Chéreau currently has 1 permanent listing at Systembolaget and 3 wines that can be ordered.

17 TRENDSETTER

GLOBAL

COMMUNICATION COMMUNICATION

+46 707 94 09 87 [email protected]

18 ABRUZZO SHARPENS ITS CLAWS TEXT: OVE CANEMYR PHOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

The road from Rome to the ABRUZZI area of eastern Italy offers many beautiful natural ex- periences. The road also follows the old dividing line between the Allies in the south and the German troops in the north during the Second World War.

The road from Rome to the ABRU- area, called “The Battle of Ortuna”, ZZI area of eastern Italy offers many was eventually won by the Allies in beautiful natural experiences. The late 1943, thanks to a skilled Cana- road also follows the old dividing dian Captain Paul Triquet, Com- line between the Allies in the south mander of the 22nd Royal Regiment and the German troops in the north of Quebec. He was later awarded the during the Second World War. Many Victoria Cross. An anniversary box fierce battles were fought here along with 4 local wines has been produced the line that bore the code name to honor the memory of the event in GUSTAV, and the great huge in the Ortuna. >>>

19 Now we travel along the same road and enjoy the mountains that tower and the roads that get narrower and narrower until we finally get past the mountains and further east, where the journey goes down to the coast of the Adriatic and Abruzzo area. We first visit Cantina Tollo, found- ed in 1960, and which became the producer widely considered to have put the Abruzzo area on the map and which today has become one of the most successful producers with its almost 3,000 hectares of vineyards with over 800 partners. The area enjoys a Mediter- ranean climate with large tempera- ture differences. The grapes grow in pergulas in a classic way, and the , , Pecori- no, Passerina and Cococciola are especially interesting. The wine cellars contain large slavonian oak barrels and barrels side-by-side with glass insulated ce- ment containers in place, which to- day is considered the very best way of developing the wine over time. The team consists of Riccardo Brighigna, who leads the work with the other winemakers Daniele Ferrante and Enrico Mucci, as well as with agronomist Antonio Sitti. Together, they produce over 14 million bottles of wine a year.

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20 Then we visit Masciarelli. “I don’t the world by producing high qual- been renovated to its former glo- sell wine, I sell emotions.” That ity wines that shows passion over ry. Here, you can experience local statement sums up Gianni Masci- the craft and always tests new pos- fine dining or music evenings with arelli when he urges his colleagues sibilities. Since 2009, Masciarelli wine tastings etc. Something that is to spread the sense of history and also owns the Castello di Semiv- highly recommended. culture, country, and knowledge of icoli, which was built in the 17th the people here in Abruzzo all over and 19th centuries, and has now

>>> 21 With the aid of the wings of history four differentand Passerina.” do we now move to the present, or sites, Santa When the doors to the winery why not to the future? Lucia, Colle open, it feels as if you are entering a More specifically to Agricosimo Maggio, San high-tech world with new solutions winery, founded in 2000 by the Vincenzo and and machinery in the various parts Proietto family. The name honors San Francesco,” of the production. Even the bot- the original owner and relative Co- explains Colin tling process employs brand new simo Daniano Proietto who lived Proietto, con- technology. Everything changed here in Villamagna during the tinuing, “and our grapes and their after 2010, when they radically in- 1700s. Here, passion and knowl- four different crus originate here, creased production capacity. The edge from traditional winemaking depending on location, direction same building also houses built-in are combined with the modern and soil. Therefore, each part of premises for fine dining combined vineyard’s technology and process- the vineyards produces grapes with with wine tastings, overnight stay, es. By traveling the globe for over distinct characteristics, which is a and tasting rooms. All of the activ- 30 years, they have accumulated result of the interaction between ities go under the name under the unique knowledge to develop the the different conditions. The grapes name We, owned by Agricosimo personality of their own wines. used in their production are Mon- Vineyards & Winery. “Our vineyards are spread out over tepulciano, Chardonnay, Pecorino

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22 We end the visit to Abruzzo at IL Passerina, Trebbiano, Cerasuolo FEUDUCCIO DI SANTA MA- d´Abruzzo and Montepulciano RIA, located in Orsogna in the D´Abruzzo. We can really talk heart of Annunziata Territorical about terroir-based wines here. Park among beautiful hills, and Something else we can talk about is with a long produc- an absolutely fantastic wine, 1999 tion on the mountain slopes of Ma- IL FEUDUCCIO MARGAE. An- jella with an outstanding view of yone who gets hold of a bottle of the Adriatic Sea. Feuduccio wines this extraordinary fine wine from all carry this pure, natural experi- Abruzzo will not be disappointed. ence, and their microclimate and origin are reflected in the grapes, which include Pecorino, Rosato, >>>

23 So, we have reached the grand finale tasting of wines from Abruzzo held at Villa Estea - Torino di Sangro, and a well-executed arrangement that reflects the place on the world map that the wines from Abruzzo today present. An exciting group of Italian wines on the rise. Read more at www.vinidabruzzo.it

24 Chablis från Patriarche matcha till fina fisk- och skal djursrätter.

Chablis från familjeföretaget Patriarche Père & Fils som sedan 1780 har gjort vin i hjärtat av Bourgogne. Vinet har en ljusgul färg, smaken har inslag av äpplen, krispig mineral, och viss örtighet. Traditionell citruston i avslutet. Balanserat och torrt, med viss mognad.

16 9 k r Finns på ditt Systembolag!

Patriarche Chablis Cuvée Léonce Bocquet 2018 varunr. 5383. alk. 12,5%

www.domainewines.se Barn som får alkohol hemma dricker sig berusade oftare än andra barn.

25 A LOVELY COMBINATION OF ART AND VITICULTURE Well protected by the Marca Trevigiana mountain range, Villa Sandi is built in Palladian style and dates back to 1622. The building is today the headquarters of one of Italy’s most famous Prosecco producers of the same name.

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26 The castle is classified as a cultural their involvement for nature and of storage. Two cellars with French heritage site and is located in Tre- the environment. barrel barrels are also on site to viso, an area between the Prosecco In Villa Sandi’s , which store Villa Sandi’s premium wines of Valdobbiadene D.O.C.G. and originated in the 17th century, it so that they mature and are pro- Montello wines and which is a feels like wandering around in an cessed according to plan. good example of the special band outstanding art collection, while Villa Sandi is a certified “Biodiver- that links art and wine culture in knowing and experiencing the sity Friend” through the World Bi- this place, something that has char- presence of slumbering wines that odiversity Association (WBA), and acterized the Venetian history to form the basis of tomorrow’s fine participates in a research and work- this day. wines. Here there are perfect con- ing group “Wine Research Team” The Moretti Polegato family are ditions regarding humidity and a together with over 30 wine pro- the current owners of the castle, constant temperature. The bottles ducers from different parts of Italy and they carry the on tradition produced according to the “meth- coordinated by Riccardo Cotarella. developing their production in a od classique” are developed here Another of the key people here at more modern direction, and by with between three to seven years Villa Sandi is Consuelo Donetto,

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27 European Export Manager and The Prosecco wines are VALDOB- one of those who ensure that the BIADENE Prosecco Superiore Prosecco continues to spread and D.O.C.G. and RISERVA Amalia the reception these wines deserve Moretti Metodo Classico. across Europe.

Among the wines are the To learn more, visit CARTIZZE La Rivetta and the red www.villasandi.it CÒRPORE Il Grande Rosso.

28 29 A LONG HISTORY OF VALTELLINA’S NEBBIOLO GRAPES TEXT: OVE CANEMYR PHOTO: NINO NEGRI

These days, the whole world is talking about Nebbiolo from Valtellina, but not everyone knows that Valtellina is also the place where the Nebbiolo grape was born.

These days, the whole world is talking from the north, i.e. Switzerland. Why not? about Nebbiolo from Valtellina, but not Well, because they were afraid to suffer everyone knows that Valtellina is also the the influence of other religions, for exam- place where the Nebbiolo grape was born. ple Protestantism in Switzerland. It can It was the monks who started growing therefore be said that Nebbiolo followed the grape and it was used by the Catholic with the monks as they moved north to Church at various ceremonies. They did Valtellina. not want to cross the border to buy wine

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30 In Italy, the Ro- ity of the wine so it could be aged. was able mans were the to store. And then transported by horse first to export and and carriage, which at that time could take increase wine con- weeks and sometimes a month.” sumption until the Valtellina belonged to Switzerland during church, monks the 1300s and 1700s. One of the reasons and priests inter- for the Swiss invasion was that, at that vened. time, it wasn’t possible to grow grapes Danilo Drocco, there. And most of the grapes in Switzer- head winemaker at Nino Negro explains: land were white, which made the interest for red wines grow. So, finally the Swiss ”The Nebbiolo grape was cultivated some came in and stayed there for 400 years. time back in the Middle Ages in Valtelli- actually produced in Italy. There is also na. Before that, there were many differ- “At Nino Negri today, there is a wine a historical agreement that the vineyards ent grape varieties in the area, but at that that comes from an ancient area that was were seen as their own domains. time they started to focus on the Nebbiolo guarded by the Romans when the soldiers There are high tariffs these days since grape. It may be interesting to know that guarded the wine. Its name is Le Tense Switzerland does not belong to the EU in- before then the Nebbiolo grape was called because the Roman army always had the ternal market. “Chiavennasca,” which really means “bet- habit of camping where the best wines ter place to produce a lot of wine.”. You could be obtained. “ In the 1980s, Switzerland decided to stop need to remember that volume was impor- all imports of wine from Valtellina, which, There is a lot of history and tradition re- tant because it was really the only way for for a number of years, posed major prob- lating to wine and grapes in Valtellina. To- people to make money at that time. It was lems for the selling their own production. day, there are some producers from Swit- also possible to make a wine that could be This was due to the fact that they started zerland who come to Valtellina to produce aged with Nebbiolo. Through the pass up to produce their own wines in Switzerland their wines. History repeats itself, but in and through the Alps north of Valtellina, and, of course, mainly wanted to favor another form, you could say. the wine was exported to Switzerland and their own market. At the same time, prices further to Germany and other countries, In the past, “Made in Switzerland” could went down on the Italian vineyards and and it was important to maintain the qual- actually be used on the labels of the wines grapes, which forced many producers to

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31 close. Before the 1980s, more than 80% 100 different sizes to be able to have wine of the wines produced in Valtellina were from different vineyard locations to mix exported to Switzerland. with. New technology has also made its way into production with new steel and Today, the wines are again sold to Switzer- new clones of Nebbiolo to experiment land but in much smaller volumes. with. There is a reason why Valtellina is not The wines are well balanced, dry and with so well known around the world. This is a good body. partly due to this relationship to the north, which over the years has given Piedmont a Nino Negri currently has 31 ha in the better reputation around the world. following very interesting areas: Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Fracia. Valtellina is today full of tourists, most of whom are there to ski in the Alps, espe- Nino Negri’s largest market is still domes- INFORMATION: cially now and the next few years when the tic, but today it exports to Scandinavia, LE TENSE SASSELLA VALTELLINA next Winter Olympics takes place there. Germany, the US, and Japan. SUPERIORE DOCG Item number: 32341 (for order) Nino Negri has over 1,500 French and Price: 169 SEK American oak barrels in the cellar in over

VIGNETO FRACIA Item number: 73648 (for order) Price: 189 SEK

SFURSAT ”CARLO NEGRI” Item number: 75529 (for order) Price: 339 SEK

SFURSAT 5 STELLE Item number: 97066 (temporary as- sortment until December 6th) Price: 399 SEK

32 RIEDLIN BRILLANT AND TRESTER – TWO REALLY GOOD INVESTMENTS TEXT: OVE CANEMYR PHOTO: KVALITETSVINER

For hundreds of years, the Kuntz family has been producing wine close to Leiser, a small village just north of Bernkastel, where the makes a strong curve. This is where Sybille Kuntz grew up, surrounded by the vineyards. When she got a little older, she studied econo- mics in northern Germany. She opened a wine boutique where she sold some of her parent’s Mosel wines to help finance her studies. >>>

SYBILLE KUNTZ

33 For hundreds of years, the Kuntz family has been producing wine close to Leiser, a small village just north of Bernkastel, where the Mo- sel makes a strong curve. This is where Sybille Kuntz grew up, sur- rounded by the vineyards. When she got a little older, she studied economics in northern Germany. She opened a wine boutique where she sold some of her parent’s Mosel wines to help finance her studies. The shop was a big success, and after a while, Sybille decided to further improve the quality of the wines she sold. So, she moved home to produce her own wine, and since 1990, she has worked ecologically, becoming certified in 2013.

At the same time, but in a different LIESER NIEDERBERG-HELDEN area of Germany, the southern part of Baden in Laufen, the Riedlin family continued making wine, as they have done since 1656. In 2009, Markus Kuntz-Riedlin took over his parent’s vineyards, and the following year he produced his first wine, a Spätburgunder us- ing grapes about 2 hectares of the vineyard. He also produces rosé and spirits. In doing so, through his ambition and competence, Markus is carrying on an old family tradition. The spirit he produces is called Riedlin Brillant, which is the name of the nature wine yeast that he currently uses together with his wife Sybille Kuntz. 2013 is their latest vintage, and the destilate is from Pinot Noir grapes from a 1.2 ha large part of Weingut SYBILLE KUNTZ >>>

34 RIESLING

Riedlin in Baden, and is classified as Weinhefebrand. The rootstocks are between 20-50 years-old, and the soil contains limestone with clay and marl. Riedlin Brilliant is made in a single pan and is distilled twice in its own lees. Alcohol 45%. The natural wine yeast is used when they make a cold clearing at minus 20 C. Nat- urally, the distillate is Ecocert. The design of the bottle label is tak- en from a painting by Adolf Ried- lin (1892-1969), who was an artist in the family. Of course, Sybille Kuntz also SYBILLE KUNTZ makes her own distillate at Wein- gut Sybille Kuntz in Mosel. She has named it Riesling Trester. It is INFORMATION made using the Riesling grape that come from 40-80 year-old root- RIEDLIN BRILLANT stocks in blue slate soil. Trester is Item# 20232 20232. distilled twice in a single pan and Pris 899 SEK (700 ml) the alcohol volume is 45%. TRESTER To learn more, visit www.kvalitetsviner.se

35 TRENDSETTER

GLOBAL

COMMUNICATION COMMUNICATION

+46 707 94 09 87 [email protected]

36 A STAR RETURNS TO ITS ROOTS IN BOURGOGNE TEXT: OVE CANEMYR PHOTO: EDOUARD DELAUNAY

Everything is really a family story that begins when Laurent Delaunay’s father, due to ill- ness in 1993, decided to sell Domaine Edouard Delaunay, which had been in the family’s ownership since 1893.

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37 In connection with that, Laurent who were used to working with ny that today collaborates with 180 and his wife, who are also wine- two different grape varieties to get different producers in the region makers, decided to help with the to work with many more different who do not have their own sales transfer for two years and then they types. They created two new winer- force. decided to leave Edouard Delaunay ies in Languedoc, of which the best So, they had two in for good or bad. They were young known is Abbotts & Delaunay. Languedoc and a distribution com- and wanted to make their own However, they returned to Bur- pany in Bourgogne, but still didn’t wines. Without a penny in their gundy again in 2003, and were have the possibility to produce pockets, they decided to move fur- fortunate enough to be able to their own wine. It was frustrating, ther south in France to Languedoc. buy a small company that helped to say the least. In 2016, Laurent They moved for two reasons: it was sell wines in Burgundy to small met the man who had purchased not as expensive as in Burgundy independent producers that didn’t Edouard Delaunay from his father and partly because at that time, have an own sales department but in Bourgogne and asked him if the around 1995, wines from Langue- who had a fantastic network of vineyard was strategically impor- doc wines were enjoying a kind of wine producers. It had previously tant for him. The man replied that renaissance. It was very exciting belonged to one of Laurent’s dad’s it wasn’t. It was the perfect oppor- for young winemakers to be part friends who was going to retire and tunity to go full circle, and Lau- of this and it was also particularly now wanted Laurent to take over. rent asked if he could buy back the interesting for those winemakers DVP was the name of the compa- property, whereby the man said it >>>

38 would be just fine to do so. Laurent worked with over the years, and could finally return to his roots in were able to start over from scratch. Bourgogne after 25 years in south- They started the project by focus- ern France. ing on history and bringing the Laurent then bought back his do- domain name back to life, putting main name, and the castle he now all their energy into producing top lives in. The only thing he couldn’t quality wines, among other things, buy back was the vineyards, be- by utilizing the fantastic DVP net- cause the price had skyrocketed. So work to get over the absolute best they started a new project instead, grapes from the best vineyard loca- releasing five generations of wines tions. It is the most difficult thing from Domaine Edouard Delaunay in Burgundy. So, they knew exactly with a new approach. Now, they which person or people could sell had a lot of experience in Langue- small or large quantities of quali-

LAURENT DELAUNE doc and from vineyards around the ty grapes. That was something that world that they had visited and gave them the opportunity to carry

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39 out their vision much faster than otherwise would have been possible. They began by renovating the win- ery, which is practically next door to the castle where his grandfather used to live. There are many small barrels and tanks in place in the winery to provide the opportunity to sometimes vinify as little as one barrel at a time so that the grand cru grapes, which sometimes grow on small lots, fit just right. They have also renovated the wine cel- lar for storage, and the stone cellar which is just below the castle in which they now live. The next step Laurent took to ac- quire talented new employees was to hire a young winemaker, Chris- tophe Briotit, who was previously rector of the Masters of Viticul- ture program in Beaune. There, he gained an amazing experience and also created a network of many young, promising winemakers from the school’s classes. more Grand Crues have been add- viously been contacts of his father ed for 2018. A total of 9 Grand and grandfather. This was something that would Crues from next year, which is very prove to be a real stroke of genius And so, you can definitely say that impressive feat in such a short peri- regarding quality assuring the new the circle is closed and that a star od of time. wines from Edouard Delaunay. with its roots in Bourgogne has re- There were also many local grow- turned. Finally, they decided to make their ers who were very happy when they first vintage in 2017, using grapes INFORMATION found out that Laurent was back from 20 different vineyards. There A sampling of wines from Edouard in Burgundy. Some had even pre- are 6 Grand Crues 2017, and 3 Delaunay

40 SWEDEN CELEBRATES 20 YEARS AS A WINE-GROWING COUNTRY TEXT & PHOTO: URSULA HELLBERG

This year marks 20 years since Sweden became a wine-growing country according to EU definitions. During this time, the number of growers has increased significantly. Around 350 growers today handle the approximately 100 ha of registered vineyards. Of these, about 40 are devoted to commercial cultivation, while the rest are hobby growers. There is no doubt about the fact that the winemaking has come to Sweden to stay. >>>

41 LOTS OF COASTAL CULTURES Today, the average age for Swed- The coastal climate is optimal for ish vineyards is about nine years. most growers. This is also the case Most growers are men. Many of in Sweden, where the cultivations the growers have chosen to invest largely follow the Swedish coast- in several wine styles. But just un- line. From Lysekil in Bohuslän, der a third of the sales of commer- south across Halland and on to cial wine growers come from wine Skåne. There, the Kulla Peninsula sales themselves. The rest of the in- has arisen as one of Sweden’s most come is obtained by holding wine expansive wine areas. As late as last tastings in combination with res- spring, one of the vineyards plant- taurant operations and sometimes ed 12,000 new plants. These days even accommodations. Some have in Skåne, it’s never far to the near- combined wine growing with fruit est winery but, the distribution of cultivation, cider production and vineyards in southern Sweden is plant sales, while others also work quite good. Along the east coast via as consultants. Swedish vineyards Blekinge and Småland, including have become increasingly popular the large islands, vineyards extend as destinations, and are now an all the way up to Nynäshamn in important element of the Swedish Södermanland. Then we have to tourism industry. WITH HIS 84 YEARS, PERCY MÅNSSON go inland. Fifty km from the coast, FROM DOMÄN SÅNANA IN ÖSTERLEN on Lake Långhalsen near Flen, lies IS THE PATRIARCH AMONG THE WINE- GROWERS IN SWEDEN. HE PLANTED HIS Sweden’s northernmost commer- FIRST VINES IN THE EARLY 1990S. cial winery. PIONEERS Wine’s path to Sweden came through Denmark. That’s where pioneer Jens Michael Gundersen started growing grapes in the ear- ly 1990s. In Sweden, it took a few more years, but around the turn of the millennium there were at least four wineries who understood that Sweden had potential as a wine country: Murat Sofrakis from Vingården in Klagshamn south of Malmö (It was formerly called Nangijala Vingård), Percy Måns- son at Domän Sånana in Skillinge in Österlen , Lauri Pappinen at Gute Vingård, southern Gotland, and Göran Amnegård in Blaxta in Sörmland. Thanks to their fore- sight and efforts, Sweden was able THE KULLA PENINSULA IS ONE OF SWEDEN’S MOST EXPANSIVE WINE AREAS. THE to take the step into the wine-pro- PICTURE IS FROM KULLABERGS VINEYARD WHERE LAST SPRING 12,000 NEW VINES ducing countries. WERE PLANTED. IN ADDITION TO SOLARIS, TWO NEW BLUE VARIETIES ARE ALSO BEING TESTED: PINOT NOVA AND CABERNET NOIR. >>>

42 GRAPES THAT THRIVE IN matic taste with hints of elderberry, SWEDEN pear and apple. Solaris is suitable From the beginning, there was for both still and sparkling wines. some uncertainty about which Stored in steel tanks, the wines be- grapes would thrive in the Swed- come healthy and fruity, while in ish climate. Both fungus-resistant barrels they get more tropical tones. hybrid grapes were planted, such Solaris is also very suitable for des- as Solaris, Phoenix, Vidal, Caber- sert wines. In recent years, they net Cortis, Regent, Lèon Millot have also successfully produced and Rondo, but also classic grapes from Solaris. Either that can withstand a cooler climate. as a lone grape or mixed with the Only time would show which ones slightly muscat scented Phoenix to focus on and what kind of wine grape. The result is very appealing. they best suited. The grape vari- As for the blue grape varieties, it ety that turned out to be the best became a little more difficult. In and most easily adapted to Swed- general, it feels as if Swedish red SOLARIS IS A POPULAR GRAPE FOR BOTH PRODUCERS AND CONSUMERS. FLYINGE ish conditions is the green Solaris. wines have not yet found their VINGÅRD HAS FOUR DIFFERENT VARIE- The grape has good acidity, aro- style, although there are some ex- TIES WITH DIFFERING TYPES OF VINIFI- CATION. ceptions. Instead, they have cho- sen to invest in rosé wine, which is a wise choice. The color-intense Rondo and the tannin-rich Caber- net Cortis (which is a cross between and Solaris) when blended turn into excellent rosé wines. Whether they are still or sparkling, they hold a very high class. Something that more and more people discovered. The fact that the grape variety Vidal would thrive in the Swedish climate was a longshot. But the same grape has been successfully grown in Canada to produce ice- wine. We can confirm that it is just as good in Sweden.

A LITTLE ABOUT VINTAGES In a country like Sweden, climate plays an important role in how the harvest will be. In the begin- ning, the primary question for the new wine growers was whether or not they would survive the winter. AS USUAL, THE ANNUAL WINE FESTIVAL AT SKEPPARPSVINGÅRD, ÖSTERLEN, AT- TRACTED MANY VISITORS. THIS TIME AROUND 40 WINES COULD BE SAMPLED FROM NINE SWEDISH PRODUCERS. >>>

43 SVENERIC SVENSSON, CHAIRMAN OF THE SWEDISH WINE ASSO- PHOTO TEXT: SWEDISH WINES ARE INCREASINGLY VIS- CIATION, WORKS TO MAKE FARM SALES POSSIBLE FOR SWEDISH IBLE IN FOREIGN WINE COMPETITIONS. FREDHOLM’S WINE GROWERS SOON. WINE RECEIVED A GOLD MEDAL IN RIOJA IN JULY FOR HIS WHITE WINE ELSA (NAMED AFTER THE DOG). PÄR FREDHOLM CAN BE SEEN IN THE BACKGROUND.

Now they have learned to better Regarding the rules for wine-grow- designation of origin last year. The meet the problems. The differences ing in Sweden, not so much has signature wine DONS has been are big even where the distances are happened in 20 years. Admittedly, named Denmark’s best sparkling small. In Skåne, spring is better in the EU now also approves hybrids wine for the past 15 years and has the north-west than in the south- with elements of vinifera. won many international awards. east due to frost. In Österlen, au- What is missing is a more detailed In Sweden, there are also hopes to tumn arrives later. These hot fall description of cultivation areas and introduce designations of origin. days allow the taste to develop. qualities. You can only write “Swed- Several growers on the Kulla Pen- If you look at the latest harvests, ish wine” on the label. No type of insula are interested in this, among you will notice large vintage varia- designation of origin exists at pres- other things. “But what people are tions. 2016 was the best year so far. ent. This feels unsatisfactory given working on now is not appellations The following year it rained a lot that vineyards in Sweden are so ge- but farm boutique sales,” says the and the growers had to work a lot ographically dispersed. But things Swedish Wine Association’s chair- with sorting. The warm 2018 gave have gotten better in Denmark, man Sveneric Svensson, adding a great harvest, which in gave pro- where the EU’s northernmost, that, “Farm boutique sales is com- ducers opportunities to experiment and Denmark’s first, appellation is ing, the question is just when! “ more with their wines. This year, located. It is Skärsögård in Dons near Kolding that got protected the spring frost might a small- er harvest, but otherwise, things look good.

44 45 ALCOHOL-FREE CHAMPAGNE – A HUMAN RIGHT A MEETING WITH MOA GURBUZER, ODDBIRD TEXT: OVE CANEMYR

towards alcohol, then you start ex- who drinks or doesn’t drink. This ploring other available options to is a situation that should be able to solve the problem. And how is this be influenced over time. The big- family doing right now? You can gest question is how? also ask yourself a relevant question I read Jenny Strömstedt’s article - how quickly can you get yourself in Expressen, where she described into an abusive situation with alco- ”nag-drinking.” “It’s like, ‘Hey, let’s hol? The answer is that it goes very grab a drink in town,’ which would fast, faster than you think, and then then lead to more than one, just as- you sit there all of a sudden, stuck. sumed. It’s almost you can’t meet Perhaps the family has set an ulti- without drinking. And you’re seen matum that now, this abuse can’t as been boring if you don’t want to continue. Up to that point, as fam- drink. But if you do go with the ily, social workers or close relatives, flow, after a while you might not they have all really tried to help this be asked because you can’t stop person in many different ways. But drinking once you’ve started. That often, unfortunately, they still fail, makes the problem even stronger. maybe sometimes because the per- Or maybe you don’t want to be the son who has the problem has been strange person that says no thanks. asked to take responsibility for If you can’t say no to an opportu- their decisions. But we all have to ”During my years as a social work- nity to drink, then you are pretty ask ourselves what we didn’t do to much chained to the addiction.” er, meeting so many parents and prevent the individual from ending children, I began to contemplate up where they are now. When I asked myself that question how I could develop in order to and got that insight, the solution to better help children and their fam- When looking at the reality that the the problem became apparent. ilies to say, ”No thanks.” Two sim- person in question is living, one can ple words that are sometimes be only state that the reality is not very hard to say. But when you then fail friendly or conducive to change. If to influence families’ mothers and you go back to the starting-point, fathers to have healthier attitudes you will eventually find a person >>>

46 So how did you find your solution? Is it a generational question? Isn’t ”Alcohol-free products were al- that already common? There are ready on the market, but I wanted always alcohol-free alternatives on to create another type of non-alco- the menu… holic product that I could really get behind. My company cares about values. It is a value-driven company ”My solution was to produce Rick- in that I use products to talk about ard Juhlin’s Champagne. I came something that is very important along kind of like bit like an odd to me and to say, for example, that bird with my social values, and to- you should not “nag-drink”, be- day, I want to hope and believe that cause then your ideas are wrong, everyone understands my vision. etc. Can’t we try to create a society To be “liberated from alcohol” where it is just as common to ask – that’s how I want to put it. Or about coffee with or without milk “non-alcoholic champagne - a hu- as yes or no to alcohol? man right” - that sounds good too.”

What has happened in recent years Do you have any new alcohol-free is that thanks to two fine summers products coming to the market this in a row, sales of, for example, fall? non-alcoholic beers have complete- ly skyrocketed. Isn’t that a great “We have produced the absolute trend? For me it is. Non-alcoholic best non-alcoholic prosecco that champagne - a human right. can be developed in collaboration ”Yes, but making the right choice with a prominent producer in the has to be in accordance with your Veneto area of northern Italy. We own. Right now, it may feel that are authorized to state on the label others are making the choice for that it comes from Veneto and that you and that you do not have the it is alcohol free. My assessment is right to do so yourself. But making that it is a really good product that your own choices, that’s the thing.” will revolutionize the market. ”The problem can arise when you That is why we have also decided are out and meet someone you to change the brand name. Now we know should not drink alcohol. will forever be called ODDBIRD. You immediately start to think If you are a different bird, you must about what you should offer them be able to stand up for who you are. now instead.” It’s something that feels very im- portant to me.”

47 EAGERLY AWAITING THE DRIVE… TEXT & PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER JARNVALL

I’ve written about this before, so there is a risk you’ve heard this before: I always look forward to the date August 21, every year… That’s the beginning of game season in Sweden, a few days after the start of buck season. I’ve written about this before, so In this case, a sturdy Pinot Noir plays there is a risk you’ve heard this be- a vital role, like the top-selling Irony, fore: I always look forward to the a top-seller through Systembolaget. date August 21, every year… That’s Irony is a very tasty, price-worthy the beginning of game season in wine from California’s Russian River. Sweden, a few days after the start of The area is named after a river where buck season. But for me, it’s more Russian furriers hunted during the than just a season, merely sitting in 1800s, but which is now more fa- a field fighting off mosquitos some mous for the area’s great wines. Great late summer evening, waiting for with ravioli or tortellini and sun- a buck that may or may not walk dried tomatoes. An amazing combi- by. When the dogs drive pheasant, nation, in my opinion. when the ducks fly by, that’s when Or why not try a South African Pi- things get interesting! with a good wine. I prefer a strong not Noir! Hamilton Russell Vine- The ducks take off and we hunters Pinot Noir. First choice, an American yard (2016) is a fantastic wine, bring them down. The coordination wine from Russian River. But other grown near Hermanus down on the with apport – various retrievers – sumptuous options are available. southern coast, where the Indian makes the hunting day a wonderful Hunting game is in full swing this Ocean meets the Atlantic. experience. Even if the last time I time of year, but hunting in gener- If you feel like putting it into a higher was out it was pouring rain. And of al is alive and well during the late gear, you can try the combination of course, everything is taken care of. At summer, early fall. Pheasant and grilled with a full-bodied Pinot Noir the end of August, it can be a little grouse are both beautiful and tasty from Calera (2016), Central Coast, difficult to hang the ducks before you birds, milder in taste than duck, California. In terms of price, it’s about pluck them and prepare them for the which can give more taste of liver. ten dollars more than Irony, but is freezer or skillet. But a day or two in Some people don’t like it for that one of the best wines currently avail- a shady place works. No more than reason. But with the right wine, able through Systembolaget. Worth that. I spent a sunny Saturday morn- anything works! Try a Chianti with the price – just as Calera’s ”flagship” ing in August preparing 22 ducks duck some time. A great wine that Calera Ryan. But for the latter, there that landed on my property, and complements liver. is a big price difference. Ryan costs managed to listen to two Beethov- With pheasant and grouse, full-bod- about $60 dollars per bottle. en symphonies, the 3rd and the 7th. ied, oaky and creamy Chardonnay That’s how long it takes. I actually have a Calera Ryan (2014) works well, but Pinot Noir is always in my wine cellar. Soon, I’m going I really enjoy hunting game, and am a winning choice. Recently, I tast- to bring it up to the table and en- very pleased with the result on my ed Lioco (2017), a Sonoma Char- joy it with my newly-grilled duck. dinner table. Duck is a favorite – espe- donnay. Really good to lighter game Enjoy! cially when it’s carefully grilled a late meat. But duck requires much summer night, and enjoyed together more from a wine.

48 IT IS FINALLY HERE… TEXT: OVE CANEMYR PHOTO: UNIDAS

Whether investing or tasting a new and exciting drink, Diplomatico’s rum producer in Ve- nezuela, Destilerias Unidas (DUSA), has released its new gin Canaima Small Batch Gin on the market. The entire project is characterized by a thought-out big picture mindset focused on keeping the ecological footprint to a minimum. >>>

49 The first drops and the terrible human trafficking, with borders between the countries were recently mostly women and children, espe- of South America, we measure in poured by Si- cially for their internal organs. And the number of trees. There are var- mone Caporale, there isn’t a trace of any of it in the ious things that residents can and a bartender at documentaries because it doesn’t should do themselves, and apart The Artesan in show a nice enough picture of re- from distillation, that’s 90% of all London, which ality. work. Some collect the fruits and has been named But in the end, we came to the con- some produce all sales material. SIMONE CAPORALE the world’s best clusion that we wanted to achieve They want to dress like us but they bar four times in something that people like, such want to keep the traditions at the a row. But this time, the premiere as eating or drinking. But we still same time, so they wear very little took place in Stockholm at Le didn’t really know what to do. But clothes since their coldest day is Hibou, the rooftop bar at BANK we knew that we would do some- the same temperature as the hot- HOTEL. thing, and this something would test day we have in Europe. It’s And what drops they are... be done by the locals together important to find out what they with Diplomatico’s team. We don’t do and don’t need. This is impor- Simone Caporale tells more about tant to point out when it comes to the thoughts behind Canaima, its measure forests in the Amazon arrival, and why DUSA invested in creating a new type of spirit in Venezuela. “When you come to the Amazon, there is so much you can’t take in and see with the eye, you get to see and experience ethnicity, tastes, culture, etc., everything that no- body really shows in various TV shows about the Amazon. That’s what concerns me the most when I get there myself,” says Simone Caporale. “We at Canaima have so much in common with the people who produce Diplomatico, except that we work in the Amazon jun- gle. Like the feeling that I wish I could help my friends and my col- leagues. I wish we could do some- thing together for the Amazon. But we didn’t really know what to do. There is so much to do. When you say the Amazon, what image pops into your brain? Imagine beautiful rivers, birds and fruits and monkeys for example. And that’s right, ab- solutely right. But for the past 250 years, the Amazon has been hit by other things like illegal ore mining, >>>

50 marketing what we produce. That down. They have lived this way material has not really changed in for thousands of years, and during the world since the late 1900s. It’s that time they have managed to manufactured from plastic or oth- preserve things as they are here. So er unsuitable materials from a sus- instead of saying that they are mov- tainability point of view. They will ing too slow, maybe we should slow have to produce the marketing ma- ourselves down instead. They make terial by hand instead. The idea for baskets, necks and bracelets from this whole project started about 40 parts that come from the fruits years ago and was completed about used in production. So, everything three months ago. All over Europe, is really done by hand, and they we say today is today and tomor- can really support themselves in row is tomorrow. In the Amazon this way. today is next week if you are lucky, And I don’t think I’ve even men- and next week is in a few months. tioned Canaima yet, right? You have to remember that there is no infrastructure, no roads, so this Canaima decided that 10% of all must be included in the planning. sales should be reinvested into the Things take the time they take. forest. So, for the first three years, The day ends when the sun goes there was no ROI for Diplomati- co from Canaima. But they didn’t >>>

51 these new trees. We still haven’t talked about Canai- ma, have we? But now it’s time to do it a little more of that. DUSA had produced distillate in a small copper boiler in a village in Venezuela for the past 60 years for various producers from all over the world. But then it fell into dis- repair. So, you could say that they rediscovered this copper boiler and decided to start using it again and to start producing Canaima under the conditions I told you about ear- lier.”

A wonderfully exciting backdrop as Cainima Small Batch Gin is now introduced on the market. The taste is intense with lychee, orange, citrus and a nice tone of freshly cut grass. The taste is com- plex and is dominated by fresh herbs, orange and a tropical fruit- iness, as well as a nice juniper tone have to get their investment back that lingers nicely. in a short time. The most impor- tant thing for them was that we de- cided to do something to save the Amazon in the long run. 10% of the sale price is used to plant new trees suitable for different areas of the Amazon. And this is done through an organization called “Tierra Viva”. And this money also allows them to take care of the trees FAKTA for the first 36 weeks. Then they CANAIMA SMALL BATCH GIN manage themselves. Item # 82012 I am going to travel to Columbia 70 cl this Christmas to plant some of Price 459 SEK

52 TRENDSETTER

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53 Fine Spirits – Collectable Investments SPIRITS C OLLECT ABLE INVESTMENTS

SPIRITS HOWC OLLEC TABLE INVESTMENTS DALMORE L´ANIMA BECAME THE WORLD’S MOST VALUABLE SINGLE MALT On May 9th this year, the most expensive single malt whisky was sold at Sotheby’s for 108,900 English pounds! A staggering sum, right? How can a bottle of whisky carry such a collector value? The story that follows will give you an answer...

54 >>> Fine Spirits – Collectable Investments

The Dalmore LÁnima is the re- ticularly successful by working to- Italy. It has three Guide Michelin sult of an historic collaboration gether. And so begins the story of stars and has also placed first on between Richard “The Nose” Pat- together creating a unique whisky the world ranking “The World´s erson of Dalmore and Massimo - LÁnima. 50 best Restaurants” in both 2016 Bottura, the owner of the Italian Richard Paterson is world famous and 2018. Massimo also runs the restaurant Osteria Francescana. as the man behind the various not-for-profit project “Food for LÁnima means ‘soul’ in Italian, and editions of Dalmore whiskey that Soul” which aims to reduce food it is something both of these gentle- most whiskey lovers and investors waste in different municipalities men strive to achieve in their daily are familiar with. But some of you and cities around the world, such work. When they first met to talk might wonder who Massimo Bot- as Rio de Janeiro, London, Paris about the project with the LÁnima tura is. and of course in Moden, Bologna and Naples in Italy. Each project is whiskey, they clicked immediately. Yes, Massimo Bottura is the proud It was said that all people are born unique and designed to allow local owner of the Osteria Francesca- fine dining chefs to use portions of with open minds for quality and na restaurant located in Modena, with passion. Which becomes par- the local food waste to serve engag- >>>

55 Fine Spirits – Collectable Investments

ing and elegant dinners for, among hand-engraved stag in silver. Final- others, politicians and the media in ly, the whisky bottle is enclosed in a the surrounding area, thus raising handmade wooden box made from awareness of what can and should Italian olive wood, American black be done to implement the best of walnut and ebony, made by John today’s kitchen together with inno- Galvin. vative thinking in the restaurant in- Together, they presented the world’s dustry. Passion and innovation are best Chef and a Scotch Whisky Icon the key words here as well. from Dalmore, a craft-made bot- So over to the LÁnima play’s main tle by Dalmore LÁnima, through character. How does it really taste? which they celebrated their shared L’Anima has a scent of exotic aro- respect for tradition and devel- mas of sun-drenched raisins, dark opment at the fantastic price of £ chocolate and old English mar- 108,900. Sounds like a very good malade. The taste is reminiscent investment. of freshly brewed Java coffee, cane For all of us others who didn’t win sugar, hickory pie, and crème the bidding at Sotheby´s, we can brûlée, while the taste of blood or- now enjoy, for example, Dalmore ange is included in the aftertaste Port Wood Reserve, which is avail- along with syrup and juicy figs. able for purchase at Systembolaget The whisky’s normal color (41.5%) for only SEK 799. Enjoy. is elegantly maintained in a crystal bottle with a collar and closure and

56 TRENDSETTER

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57 DINING& JUNE 2019 DESIGN IN SCANDINAVIA

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58 WebAuc tion special

BONHAM LAUNCHES AUTUMN WINE SEASON WITH BUMPER SALE

SOTHEBY´S THE DISTINGUISHED CELLAR OF A PIONEERING COLLECTOR 5 OCTOBER HONG KONG

SOTHEBY´S WHE ULTIMATE WHISKY COLLECTION 24 OCTOBER IN LONDON

PRIMUM FAMILIAE VINI

SOTHEBY´S RARE WINES & SPIRITS FROM THE CELLAR OF GRAHAM LYONS 6 OTHER COLLECTIONS

LONDON 16 OCTOBER

HART DAVIE HART WINE CO. FALL & WINTER 2019 AUCTION SCHEDULE

CHRISTIE’S FINEST AND RAREST WINES INCLUDING THREE SUPERB PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

ORNELLAIA VENDEMMIA D’ARTISTA ONLINE AUCTION OF SPECIAL BOTTLES WITH LABELS DESIGNED BY SHIRIN NESHAT

59 WebAuction special

BONHAMS LAUNCHES AUTUMN WINE SEASON WITH BUMPER SALE

BONHAMS WINE DEPARTMENT LAUNCHES ITS AUTUMN SEASON WITH A TWO-DAY SALE ON THURSDAY 26 AND FRIDAY 27 SEPTEMBER OF NEARLY 850 LOTS.

The Friday session will offer an important single owner col- lection of more than 300 lots. It comprises a wide selection of wines from Burgundy as well as Bordeaux, the Loire, Al- sace, Rhone, Italy, Spain, Germany and Australia. Highlights include: • Three magnums of Echézeaux 2002, Domaine René En- gel. Estimate: £5,000-6,000. • A methuselah (6 litres) of Clos-Vougeot 2004 Domaine René Engel. Estimate: £2,500-3,200. • Six bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée da Capo 2003, Domaine du Pégau. Estimate: £2,000-2,500. • Six bottles of Penfolds Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, South Australia. Estimate: £2,200-2,800. • Six bottles of Pingus 2001, . Estimate: £1,800-2,000.

AMONG THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE FIRST DAY OF THE SALE ON 26 SEPTEMBER ARE:

• A 6 bottle case of Petrus 2005, Pomerol, released direct from the Château in May 2013. Estimate: £13,000-15,000. • A 12 bottle case of Château Lafite Rothschild 2005, Pauil- lac 1er Grand Cru Classé. Estimate: £5,500-6,500 • A 12 bottle case of Château Cheval Blanc 2009, St Emil- ion 1er Grand Cru Classé. Estimate: £5,000-6,000.

Bonhams Global Director of Fine Wine, Master of Wine Rich- ard Harvey, said: “Our autumn season starts with a two-day sale of nearly 850 lots. The extensive private collection of impeccable provenance is particularly comprehensive with examples of wines from all over the world and I expect it to have wide appeal.”

A link to the full catalogue can be found here: https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25392 >>>

60 WebAuction special

THE DISTINGUISHED CELLAR OF A PIONEERING COLLECTOR A MAGNIFICENT COLLECTION OF BURGUNDY AND BORDEAUX FROM FOUR DECADES OF COLLECTING OVER 1,100 LOTS ESTIMATED AT HK$37-50 MILLION / US$4.7-6.4 MILLION

5 OCTOBER 2019 HALL 1, HONG KONG CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE

Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn 2019 wine sale series is led by these wines at auction, and this distinguished cellar provides The Distinguished Cellar of A Pioneering Collector, a stunning a welcome springboard into our autumn sale series in Asia.” single-owner sale that consists of over 1,100 lots estimated at HK$37-50 million / US$4.7-6.4 million. The collection is An outstanding offering of over 460 lots ofBurgundy brings dominated by magnificent wines from Burgundy (460+ lots) 80+ lots of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 60+ lots of Do- and Bordeaux (410+ lots), including an exceptional selection maine Leflaive, in addition to a remarkable assemblage of of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leflaive and the Dujac, de Vogüé, Ponsot, Drouhin, and Clos de Tart. First Growths. The broad palate of the collection is enhanced by a superb array of wines from Rhône, Italy and the United 410 lots of Bordeaux showcases a broad range of the re- States, including a vertical of Harlan Estate in magnums. gion’s finest wines, including 110+ lots of First Growths and top Right Bank Châteaux, many in full cases. The broad range This is a collection amassed by a true wine lover with diverse encompasses outstanding vintages including Petrus 1989 and immaculate tastes, built over four decades at the fore- and 1990, Haut Brion 1998, Lafite 1998, and a full spectrum front of a pioneering era for wine collecting in Asia, when of 1996s. a vast amount of effort and research was made in order to acquire the world’s finest wines. The majority of the wines A rich offering of Rhône features Guigal wines including La were acquired on release, or directly from established British Mouline, La Turque and La Landonne, alongside Chave, Ja- merchants in the late 1980s through to the 2000s, and have boulet, Beaucastel and Vieux Télégraphe. not been moved from the Collector’s cellar ever since. The sale also includes enticing vintages from countries and Adam Bilbey, Head of Sotheby’s Wine, Asia, states: “We are continents beyond the established classics of France, such as honored to be entrusted with an extraordinary collection Dominus and Harlan from the United States, Sassicaia and of such depth and diversity. It is an absolute joy to present Soldera from Italy, and Egon Müller from Germany.

61 WebAuction special

THE ULTIMATE WHISKY COLLECTION THE MOST VALUABLE COLLECTION OF WHISKY EVER TO BE OFFERED AT AUCTION

394 LOTS, 467 BOTTLES, 9 CASKS *ESTIMATED IN THE REGION OF £4 MILLION*

LED BY THE MACALLAN 1926 60 YEARS OLD FROM CASK #263 “THE ‘HOLY GRAIL’ OF WHISKY” ESTIMATE £350,000-450,000

ONLINE SALE CULMINATING IN LIVE AUCTION ON 24 OCTOBER 2019 AT OLYMPIA, LONDON BIDDING OPENS ON 27 SEPTEMBER

SALE TO TAKE PLACE ALONGSIDE RM SOTHEBY’S ANNUAL LONDON CAR AUCTION

With collectors’ thirst for the finest and rarest examples of The Ultimate Whisky Collector had always remained fasci- Scotch whisky increasingly reaching new heights, this au- nated by each and every expression of Scotch whisky and tumn Sotheby’s will present The Ultimate Whisky Collection, though he acquired and enjoyed a wide range, he natural- the most valuable collection of whisky ever to be sold at ly established several favourites along the way. Whiskies auction, and the Company’s first single-owner offering of from Bowmore, Highland Park and especially The Macallan spirits. Showcasing the most comprehensive range of de- captured his heart and top bottles from these distilleries sirable Scotch whisky to come to the market from a private became his focus. During his pursuit, the collector met and ‘cellar’, the collection is estimated to bring in the region of £4 developed a relationship with U.S. based whisky specialist million ($4.8 million). Jonathan Read who has played an important role in devel- oping this collection. Together, they sought to identify and The sale will open for online bidding on 27 September 2019 complete important verticals as well as delve into the vast and culminate in a live auction on 24 October at the Olympia world of Scotch whiskies bottled decades ago. event space in West Kensington, London, alongside RM Sothe- by’s sale of collectible motor cars on the same day, an annual highlight on the European collector car calendar since 2007. >>>

62 WebAuction special

“THE ‘HOLY GRAIL’ OF WHISKY” The Ultimate Whisky Collection is defined by its strong rep- resentation of The Macallan bottlings. Comprising half of the lots in the sale and with a combined estimated value in excess of £2.2 million, this is the most comprehensive col- lection of the Macallan Fine and Rare series ever offered at auction. The outstanding line-up is headed by the original- ly-labelled 60 years old The Macallan 1926 from cask #263. Cask 263 yielded only 40 bottles, considered the ‘holy grail’ of whiskies; 12 bottles were labelled by Peter Blake, 12 by Valerio Adami, and two bottles were sold individually and given private labels, one of which was hand-painted by Irish artist Michael Dillon. The remaining 14 were bottled as the anchor for the Fine and Rare series and labelled as such, making them the oldest bottles in the iconic ‘Fine and Rare’ series, both by age and by vintage. In the last two years, three versions containing liquid from Cask 263 have all broken records at auction, but the fourth bottling from this cask has not been seen at auction for over a decade. The Macallan 60 Years Old, Fine & Rare Series is the only bottle required to complete both the full collections of bottlings from cask 263 and the Fine and Rare vertical, a series to which The Macallan is continuing to add releases annually.

>>>

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THE COLLECTION AT A GLANCE • A 178 bottle-strong collection of Fine and Rare spanning seven decades, from 1926 through to 1991. • The originally-labelled 60 years old The Macallan 1926 from cask #263. • Two complete Macallan in Lalique Six Pillars Collections presented in bespoke, hand-made cabinets commis- sioned by Sotheby’s and designed by British craftsman James Laycock. • A rare collection of Macallan Fine and Rare Minia- ture bottles in an exclusively commissioned lockable wall-mounted cabinet, also designed by James Laycock. • Glenfiddich and Balvenie’s oldest bottlings, including Balvenie 50 year old 1937, Glenfiddich 50 year old (1st and 2nd releases), and Glenfiddich 64 year old 1937. • Legendary releases from Gordon & Macphail under the G&M label, including the Mortlach and Glenlivet 70 year old Generations series, The Macallan Queen’s Mother’s 80th Birthday, and a range of Glen Grant, Linkwood and Macallan Speymalt vintages. • Silvano Samaroli’s iconic releases, including Bowmore 18 year Bouquet, Laphroaig 15 year old Cask 1967, Laphroaig 1970, Springbank 12 year old and Ardbeg Sherry Wood 1974. • Bowmore Black releases (First, Second, Final and Bow- • Highland Park’s 50 year old designed by Edinburgh-born more Black 50 year old Last Cask); Bowmore Black, Bow- jeweler, Maeve Gillies, alongside other notable Highland more White and Bowmore Gold from the Bowmore Trilo- Park lots such as the Orcadian Vintage Series releases gy series; the 1957 54 year old “Crashing Waves”. from 1964, 1968, 1970, 1971 and 1976. • An entire vertical of Port Ellen’s Annual Releases (1st A selection of some of the finest casks available for sale, -17th) to be sold as individual bottles, the Limited Edi- including such peated rarities as both Bowmore and tion 40 year old Bunnahabhain, and the 40 year old Ard- Laphroaig casks from 1995, and Bruichladdich’s Octomore, beg 1965. distilled in 2012; barrels and Hogsheads from legendary dis- • An outstanding representation of Dalmore bottlings tilleries such as Dalmore, Bunnahabhain and Clynelish; the headlined by the 59 year old Dalmore Eos 1951 and Highland Park First Fill Oloroso Sherry Cask and Springbank three further 50 year old expressions. First Fill Oloroso Sherry Cask.

64 WebAuction special

PRIMUM FAMILIAE VINI: A CASE OF 12 OUTSTANDING BOTTLES TO GO UNDER THE SOTHEBY’S HAMMER ON 16 OCTOBER 2019

A dozen outstanding bottles from the personal cellars of back to 41 B.C. This case will include a PFV Passport which 12 of the most prestigious wine estates in the world will be offers the exclusive opportunity for its owner to visit each put up for auction in New York on 16 October 2019. Sothe- wine estate and be hosted by a family member. Raising by’s Wine Chairman Jamie Ritchie will conduct the auction funds for the ‘No Kid Hungry’ organisation, this sale will be during a gala dinner which will feature the limited-edition open to all those present at a gala dinner as well as collec- case of 12 wines, presented in a wooden case, entirely hand- tors around the world via Sotheby’s. made out of an extremely rare oak, the origins of which date >>>

65 WebAuction special

EACH OF THE 12 BOTTLES HAS BEEN PERSONALLY SE- Marc Perrin, current president of PFV: “This auction is a LECTED BY THE OWNERS OF EACH ESTATE. THE WINE IS unique opportunity for wine lovers in the world to secure 12 GUARANTEED TO BE OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY AND AB- rare, exceptional and authentic fine wines in pristine condi- SOLUTELY AUTHENTIC: tions. For Primum Familiae Vini, family is the only guarantee of true sustainability and the highest level of excellence in 1953 ‘Único’ the wine world. We chose ‘No Kid Hungry’ as the beneficiary 1963 Graham’s Vintage Port of the auction because our values are, above all, about fam- 1971 Familia Torres ‘Mas La Plana’ ily and of helping others. There can be no better cause than children who are in need”. 1976 Weingut Egon Müller ‘Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese’ Primum Familiae Vini was established in 1992 and has 1976 Famille Hugel Riesling ‘Sélection de Grains Nobles’ grown to include a dozen families: Marchesi (Tusca- 1977 ‘Sassicaia’ ny), Baron Philippe de Rothschild (Bordeaux), Joseph Drou- hin (Burgundy), Domaine Clarence Dillon (Bordeaux), Egon 1978 Joseph Drouhin ‘Musigny Grand Cru’ Muller Scharzhof (Mosel), Famille Hugel (Alsace), 1982 Marchesi Antinori ‘Tignanello’ (Champagne), (Rhone Valley), Symington Family Estates (), Tenuta San Guido (Tuscany), Fa- 1986 Champagne Pol Roger ‘Winston Churchill’ milia Torres (Spain) and Vega Sicilia (Ribera del Duero). Since 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild 1995, they have been raising funds as Primum Familiae Vini 1989 Château Haut-Brion Rouge to support charities around the world—primarily organi- zations that benefit disadvantaged children or specialized 1989 Château de Beaucastel ‘Hommage à Jacques Perrin’ hospitals. In total, $3 million dollars have been raised, with a large portion coming from a collaboration with Opus One during 2015’s Napa Valley Auction.

From left to right: Frédéric Drouhin (Joseph Drouhin), Egon Müller (Scharzhof), Philippe Sereys de Rothschild (Baron Philippe de Rothschild - Château Mouton Rothschild), Prince Robert de Luxembourg (Domaine Clarence Dillon - Château Haut-Brion), Marc Perrin (Famille Perrin - Beaucastel, 2019/2020 President of PFV), Albiera Antinori (Marchesi Antinori), Hubert de Billy (Champagne Pol Roger), Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta (Tenuta San Guido - Sassicaia), Pablo Alvarez (Tempos Vega Sicilia), Paul Symington (Symington Family Estates), Jean Frédéric Hugel (Famille Hugel) and Miguel Torres (Familia Torres).

66 WebAuction special

RARE WINES & SPIRITS FROM THE CELLAR OF GRAHAM LYONS & OTHER COLLECTIONS SOTHEBY’S LONDON, 16 OCTOBER 2019

TO START THE LONDON AUTUMN WINES SALES SERIES, SOTHEBY’S IS HONOURED TO PRESENT RARE WINES AND SPIRITS FROM THE CELLAR OF GRAHAM LYONS, RENOWNED OENOPHILE AND COLLECTOR. COLLECTOR.

From Cheval Blanc 1947 and Petrus 1982 in magnum to an Imperial of Mouton Rothschild 1982 and a case of Haut Bri- on 1989, the Bordeaux selection is finely tuned to the most prized châteaux and vintages of recent times. The Burgundy showing is no less impressive, with La Tâche 1976, Cham- bertin 1990 from Rousseau and Domaine Leroy Grands Crus. Rhône highlights include magnums of Hermitage La Chapelle 1978 and 1991 Guigal single vineyard Côte Rôties. Italian wines range from wonderful Barolos to Super Tuscans from the ’70s, ‘80s and beyond. There is an array of German wines from producers such as J.J. Prüm and Dr. Loosen in

>>>

67 WebAuction special

desirable mixed cases. However, it is the fortified Vieux Bas Armagnac 1904 and 1935 from Laber- wines and spirits that really stand out: rare Mosca- dolive and rarely seen Chartreuse. tel de Setúbals, Muscats and liqueur wines from Further collections include Petrus 1982 and Massandra in the historic 1939 and 1944 vintages prime Bordeaux 2009s, Romanée-Conti 1967 and Madeira from Berry Bros. and Leacock and La Tâche 1970, a DRC 1997 Assortment case, dating from 1845 and 1863 respectively. Cognac white Burgundy from Leflaive and Bonneau spans the 19th and 20th centuries, bookended du Martray, Hermitage La Chapelle 1959, Dom by Croizet Réserve Privé 1811 and Hine Grande Pérignon 1990 and 2002, and a significant offer- Champagne 1985. Among other spirits on offer ing of vintage Port from the 1963, 1966 and 1977. are Armagnac 1928 and 1943 from J. de Malliac,

68 WebAuction special

HART DAVIS HART WINE CO. ANNOUNCES

HART DAVIS HART WINE CO. ANNOUNCES FALL & WINTER 2019 Fall & Winter 2019 Auction Schedule

AUCTION SCHEDULE Hart Davis Hart Wine Co. is pleased to announce their fall and winter 2019 auction schedule. The auction house, based in Chicago, will offer several distinguished consignments in the sales alongside tastings and dinners that will attract an international audience.

Hart Davis Hart will host a two-day Mobile-Only Auction of Finest & Rarest Wines on Thursday, October 17 and Friday, October 18. The sale will offer New and Old World wines from top producers. Absentee bidding will open on Tuesday, September 24, 2019. Hart Davis Hart Wine Co. is pleased to announce their fall HDH is thrilled to host their sixth annual Celebration of Bordeaux auction on Friday, November 15 & Saturday, November 16. This auction, and winter 2019 auction schedule. The auction house, dedicated entirely to the wines of Bordeaux, sees consistent demand based in Chicago, will offer several distinguished consign- from connoisseurs around the world. Absentee bidding will open on Thursday, October 24, 2019. ments in the sales alongside tastings and dinners that will To conclude 2019, the auction house will host An Auction of Finest & Rarest attract an international audience. Wines on Friday, December 13 and Saturday, December 14. Absentee bidding will open on Thursday, November 21, 2019. Hart Davis Hart will host a two-day Mobile-Only Auction of Finest & Rarest Wines on Thursday, October 17 and Friday, Upcoming Hart Davis Hart Events October 18. The sale will offer New and Old World wines Wednesday, October 16, 2019 Exceptional Madeira Dinner with Special Guest Chris Blandy from top producers. Absentee bidding will open on Tues- day, September 24, 2019. Wednesday, November 13, 2019 Chateau Lafite Rothschild Dinner

HDH is thrilled to host their sixth annual Celebration of Bor- Thursday, November 14, 2019 deaux auction on Friday, November 15 & Saturday, Novem- Annual Bordeaux Tasting | Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lafite Rothschild ber 16. This auction, dedicated entirely to the wines of Bor- Friday, November 15, 2019 deaux, sees consistent demand from connoisseurs around Chateau Cheval Blanc Dinner the world. Absentee bidding will open on Thursday, Octo- Consign Today with Hart Davis Hart ber 24, 2019. HDH is always accepting consignments for upcoming auctions. To conclude 2019, the auction house will host An Auction of Send us your list of wine or spirits for a free appraisal today, contact Finest & Rarest Wines on Friday, December 13 and Saturday, our team at [email protected]. December 14. Absentee bidding will open on Thursday, No- vember 21, 2019.

UPCOMING HART DAVIS HART EVENTS WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2019 Exceptional Madeira Dinner with Special Guest Chris Blandy WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2019 Chateau Lafite Rothschild Dinner CONSIGN TODAY WITH HART DAVIS HART THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2019 HDH is always accepting consignments for upcoming auc- Annual Bordeaux Tasting | Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lafite tions. Rothschild Send us your list of wine or spirits for a free appraisal today, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 2019 contact our team at [email protected]. Chateau Cheval Blanc Dinner

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FINEST AND RAREST WINES INCLUDING THREE SUPERB PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

FEATURING OUTSTANDING BORDEAUX, DRC, RHONE, AND CLASSIC PORT ALONGSIDE CASES OF CHATEAU LASCOMBES AND SCREAMING EAGLE

11 OCTOBER 2019 | NEW YORK

Finest and Rarest Wines including Three Superb Private Col- and multiple cases of Château Cheval Blanc 1990. Petrus is lections. The auction will take place on Friday, 11 October and where the strength of this assemblage lies, a lovely case of will present a vast array of nearly 300 lots spanning highlights bottles of the 1982 in their original wood, a case of magnums from the very best producers in the world of fine wine. of 1989 and three cases of the 1990 in bottle. The sale commences with Classic Bordeaux from a True Col- The second collection, A Fine Collection featuring outstand- lector (Lots 1-32), which features a focused collection of Bor- ing Bordeaux, DRC, Rhône, and Classic Port (Lots 33-81), deaux with multiple wines from the 1982 and 1990 vintages; comprises of fine Bordeaux and exceptional Port including both firmly in the top five vintages of the twentieth century. rare cases of Taylor and Graham from the 1963 vintage. This Offered in large format and in original wooden cases with classic collection includes desirable recent vintages of Bor- excellent provenance, this exceptional collection represents deaux, three vintages of La Tâche, and highly collectable some of the greatest wines ever made. The ensemble in- Rhône. cludes a case of magnums of Château Lafite-Rothschild 1982

Lot 2 Lot 248 Lot 21 Château Lafite-Rothschild, 1982 Arnaud Ente, Puligny Montrachet, 2016 Petrus, 1982 6 magnums per lot 12 bottles per lot 12 bottles per lot $30,000-40,000 $2,000-3,000 $40,000-55,000 >>>

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The final featured collection, Treasures from the Collection celebrated producers such as Prieuré-Roch, Méo-Camuzet, of a Northern European Connoisseur (Lots 97-283), offers a Arnaud Ente, and Mugnier. All bought on release from their deep selection from Burgundy’s greatest producers with a respective importers and cellared impeccably. smattering of Bordeaux and Rhône. This collector is a true Also on offer are deep parcels of Château Lascombes from bon viveur, a foodie, a wine drinker and enthusiast. The col- three vintages and eight vintages of Screaming Eagle, both lection features the classic domaines of the region includ- purchased directly from their respective producers. ing Romanée-Conti, Leflaive, and Rousseau, amongst other

Lot 74 Lot 154; Lot 155 Lot 64 Taylor, 1963 Cathiard, Romanée-St.-Vivant 2014 Pegau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 12 bottles per lot 1 bottle per lot; 1 magnum per lot Cuvée da Capo, 2003 $2,000-4,000 $1,000-2,000; $3,000-5,000 12 bottles per lot $3,500-4,500

Lot 284 Lot 82 Lot 99 Screaming Eagle, 2009 Chateau Lascombes, 1994 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 3 bottles per lot 60 bottles per lot Romanée-Conti, 2002 $5,500-7,500 $800-1,200 1 magnum per lot $30,000-45,000 71 WebAuction special

ORNELLAIA VENDEMMIA D’ARTISTA

ONLINE AUCTION OF SPECIAL BOTTLES WITH LABELS DESIGNED BY SHIRIN NESHAT COMES TO A CLOSE AMOUNT COLLECTED US-$ 312.000

FROM 29 AUGUST TO 13 SEPTEMBER, ELEVEN PRECIOUS LOTS OF ORNELLAIA VENDEMMIA D’AR- TISTA 2016, “LA TENSIONE” WERE AUCTIONED OFF. ALL PROFITS WENT TO THE SOLOMON R. GUG- GENHEIM FOUNDATION FOR THE “MIND’S EYE” PROGRAM

Last Friday evening at the headquarters of the Peggy Gug- “La Tensione”, hosted by Sotheby’s. Thanks to this initiative, genheim Collection in the spectacular Palazzo Venier dei Le- conceived by Ornellaia in collaboration with the Solomon oni, the ceremony was held which marked the conclusion of R. Guggenheim Foundation, 312.000 $ were collected, with the online auction of Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista 2016, profits entirely allocated to the “Mind’s Eye” program.

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The “Mind’s Eye” program, conceived by the Guggenheim’s During the closing ceremony of the auction, which gave education department, helps blind and visually impaired bidders the chance to win the precious nine 6-litre Imperi- people to experience art through the use of all the senses. als and the only 9-litre Salmanazar of Ornellaia Vendemmia This promotes the development of creative impressions, d’Artista 2016, created by the internationally renowned art- emotional connections and memories, the perception of ist Shirin Neshat, Ornellaia’s CEO, Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja which lasts over time. As in art, the appreciation of great declared with satisfaction: “The appreciation of great wines, wines requires the involvement of all the senses. The shar- as well as the enjoyment of art, requires the involvement ing of this idea has led Ornellaia to support the growth of of all the senses, and that’s why we decided to support a this particular program. The donations collected through high-value project like “Mind’s Eye”. In so doing, we are able Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista enable the Solomon R. Gug- to help adults with disabilities to experience art by means genheim Foundation to further develop the activities of the of activities which, through the use of the senses, provide a “Mind’s Eye” program with the aim of spreading the model model of access to art that can be implemented worldwide to other art institutions, ensuring that its excellence contin- and a legacy for future generations”. ues to guide the museum’s programming for the blind and visually impaired throughout the world. >>>

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Words shared by Richard Armstrong, Director of the Solo- mon R. Guggenheim Museum and Foundation, who add- ed: “The founding mission of the Guggenheim has been to collect and exhibit art that was not simply modern, not just new, but revolutionary. Thanks to Ornellaia, we are able in- volve an even wider public in this mission”. Tension is the character chosen to define the wine pro- duced by the 2016 grape harvest, a highly successful vin- tage which, according to the Director of Ornellaia, Axel Heinz “highlights all the virtues of the climate of : abundant sunshine, not excessive heat, a dry summer which allows the grapes to reach a perfect level of ripeness, con- centration and sufficient rain to avoid water stress. All these elements combined allow us to obtain a perfectly mature and opulent wine, firm and intense; opposite forces create a sense of deep vigour which we like to call “tension”. These are the notes on which Shirin Neshat worked to pro- vide his interpretation of Tension. The artist was inspired by the Persian poet Omar Khayyām, nums, ten 6-litre Imperial bottles and one 9-litre Salmanaz- who claimed that wine should be “enjoyed during our short ar) numbered and signed personally by the artist. Every year time on earth”. His work theme is declined through ele- a selection of these bottles with exclusive labels, designed ments of Middle Eastern culture such as female faces, hands and signed personally by the artist and extremely sought and bodies decorated with Persian calligraphy and henna after by art and wine collectors, are auctioned at SOTHEBY’S, decorations in continuity with the poetics of the artist. for both charity and commercial purposes; the proceeds are donated to art foundations around the world. From ORNEL- LAIA 2006 to the present day, a total of over two million dol- The Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista project celebrates the lars has been shared out between the Whitney Museum in exclusive character of each new Ornellaia vintage. Every New York, the Poldi Pezzoli Museum in Milan, the Neue Na- year, starting with the release of Ornellaia 2006 in May 2009, tionalgalerie in Berlin, the H2 Foundation in Hong Kong and a contemporary artist has signed a work of art and a series Shanghai, the Royal Opera House in London, the AGO Art of limited edition labels, drawing inspiration from a word Gallery of Ontario in Toronto, the Fondation Beyeler in Basel, chosen by the winemaker and which describes the charac- the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles and the Solomon R. ter of the new vintage. Guggenheim in New York. The project provides that in each case of Ornellaia, one of Opera House in London, die AGO Art Gallery of Ontario in the six bottles (750 ml) bears the label created by the artist. Toronto, die Beyeler Fondation in Basel, das Hammer Mu- As in previous years, the project includes a limited edition seum in Los Angeles und das Guggenheim in New York of 111 large-size bottles (one hundred 3-litre Double Mag- gespendet.

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