EXPERIM ENT DYEING US I:\TG NATURAL I OJ 0 0 COTTO ~ A 0 ~ [ L K FABRICS
Mok Chin Yaw
Bachelor of Applied Arts with Honors (Design Technology) 2017 EXPERIMENT DYEING US ING NATURAL INDIGO ON COTTON AND
SILK FABRICS
MOK CHI N YAW
Thi s project is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements fo r the degree of
Bachelor of Applied Art with Honors
(Design Tec hnology)
Fac ulty of Applied and Creative Arts
UN IVERSITY MALAYSIA SARAWAK
20 17 UNIVERSITI MALAYSIA SARAWAK
Grade. _____
Please tick (1) Final Year Project Report m Masters D PhD D
DECLARATION OF ORIGINAL WORK
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I MOK CHIN YAW 49812 FACULTY OF APPLIED AND CREATIVE ARTS hereby declare that the work entitled "EXPERIMENT DYEING USING NATURAL INDIGO ON COTTON AND SILK FABRICS" my original work. I have not copied from any other students' work or from allY other sources except '."here the due reference or acknowledgement is made explicitly in Ih..: text, nor has allY pal1 been written for me by another person.
221ul JU NE 2017 Date submitted MOKCH INYAW (4 9812)
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II PENGESAHAN
Projek bertajllk Experirnentasi Menggunakan Fuktos Sernulajadi Daripad a Buah-buahan
Ternpatan Dan Indigo telah dised iaka ll oleh Mok Chin Yaw dan telah diserahkan kepada
Fa kulti Seni Gllnaan dan Kxea tif se bagai rnern enuhi syarat ulltuk Ij azah Sarjalla Muda Seni
Gunaan de ngan Kep uji an (Teknologi Seni reka).
Diterima untllk diperiksa oleh
f. Dr.lll e Ngo Siok Kheng)
Pensyarah, laba tan Teknologi Seni Reka Fakulti Seni Gunaan Dan Kxeatif
Tarik h . :l. ~ lOb I ~o I''"f
III PENGAKUAN
Saya mengaku bahawa tiada bahagian daripada penye lidikan dalam di se nai ini telah di gunakan sebagai bahan sokongan lIntuk sesuatu ijazah atau kelulusa n sarna ada kepada
lIni versiti ini atau institusi pengajian tinggi lain.
( Mok Chin Yaw) No.matrik • 49812
IV ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Finally, [ would like to ex press my appreciation to my be loved family mem bers who always continue providing me the spiritual support to choose the 'Nay of life which [ believe on.
Nevertheless, would like to express my sincere gratitude to my supervisor Assoc. Prof. Dr.
June Ngo Siok Kheng for the continuous support of my degree study and related research, for her pati ence, motivation, and immense knowledge.
Last but no least, I would love to convey my special thanks to my friend s who have assisted me directly and indirec tl y that led to the completion o f thesis. Wi th out they precious support it would not be possible to conduct this re search.
v ABSTRAK
Dalam kajian ini , indigo semulajadi, lim au dan buah-bllahan lempatan telah diek sperim entasikan ke alas kai n sutera dan kapas. Pengkaji menghasilkan satu koJeksi kain denga n menggabungkan teknik ce lupan menggunakan indigo dan pelbagai teknik resis untuk rnenghasilkan seni reka teksti I yang berasas kan tema Orang Uili .
Kala kunci: semulojadi. indigo, buah-buah"n lempalon, orang ulu
VI ABSTRACT
[n thi s research, the natural indigo, lime and local fruits are experimented toge ther on natural fiber fabrics such as cotton and silk. The re searcher created a range of fabric s by combining indigo dyeing and various resists techniques to create textile designs based on the
Orang Ulu motif.
Key wordl': no/ural, indigo. local fiLii! , orang LlII.I
VII CONTENTS
Page
STATUS VER IFICATI ON FORM THESIS I - II
PENGESAHAN III
PENGAKUAN IV
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT V
ABSTRAK VI
ABCTRACT VII
CONTENTS VIII-X
LI ST OF FI GURE XI
LIST OF TABLE XII
CHAPTER 1
I NTROD UCTION
1.0 Introduction
1.2 Objective of Stud y 2
1.3 Researcb Questi o n 2
1.4 Significance of Study 2
.5 Problem Statement 3
.6 Scope of S tudy 3
1.7 Limita ti o n 3
VII I CH APTER 2
LITE RATURE REVIEW 4
2.0 Introductio n 4
2.1 Dyes 5
2.2 Hi story of Na tural Dyes 5 - 6
22. 1 S ubs ta nti ve a nd Adj ec ti ve Dyes 6
2.2.2 Indi go Dye 7
2.2.3 Indigo Pl a nt ( Pea fa mi ly -Leguminosea) 7 - 8
2.2. 4 Va t D ye 8
2.3 Past Research 9 - 10
2.4 Co nclusion 10
CIIAPTER 3
METHODOLOGY I 1
3.0 Introduc tion 11
3.1 Primary Data 12
3.1 .1 Obse rva ti on 12
3. 1 .2 Expe rime nt 12
3.2 Seco ndary Da ta 12
3.2 . 1 Resources 13
CHAPTER 4
DATAANALYSISA DFI DING 14
4.0 Introduc ti o n 14
IX 4.1 Experim ent 14 - 15
4. 1. 1 Process of expe rime nt 15 - 16
4. 1.2 Techniques 16 - 19
4 .2 O bse r vati o n 19
4.3 Co nclusion 20
CHAPTERS
FI:~ A L PRODUCT 2 1
5 .0 Intro duc tion 2 1
5. I Des ign process 22
5.2 Idea d ev elopment 23
5. 2.1 Mood Board
5.2.2 Sketches 23 - 25
5.2.3 Final product 2 6 - 2 7
5.3 Co nclus ion 2 8
CHAPTER 6
SUGGESTION AND CONCLUSION 29
6.0 Introduction 29
6 . I Be nefit 29
6. 2 F u ture re searcher / recomme nd at io n 29
6.3 Conc lu s ion 29 - 30
REFERENCES 3 1 - 2 1
x LIST OF FIGURE
Page
Figure 2.1 9
Figure 2.2 9
Figure 3. 1 1
Figure 4. 17
Fig ur e 4 .2 17
Figure 4.3 17
Figure 4.4 1 8
Figure 4.5 I 8
Figure 4.6 19
Figure 4.7 19
Figure 5. 1 22
Figure 5. 2 23
Figure 5.3 25
) ~ Figure 5.4 -)
Figure 5.5 26
Figure 5.6 26
Figure 5.7 27
Figure 5.8 27
Fig ure 5.9 27
XI LIST OFTABLE
Page
Tab le 2. I 10
Tab le 4. 1 15
Table 4.2 15 - 16
Table 5.1 25
Table 5.2 16
Table 5.3 26
Tab le 5.4 27
Tab le 5.5 27
XII CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.0 Introduction
Accord ing to Saxena and Raja (20 14), natural dye s are obtained from the natural
material s such as plant leaves, roots, bark, bug discharges and minerals. These natural
colouring are accessible to humankind for the shading of mate ri als until the revelation of the
principal engineered syntheti c dye in 1856. According to Roberts (20 16), said that indigo has
been use fo r a long time ago from the third millennium Be fo r the use of ind igo from woad Or
In digofera. Natural dye is corn e from plants animals and mi nerals, natural indi go dye is come
from the pl ants a nd it obtained from the leaves which give the blue colour. According to
Antonucci (20 16), indi go pl ant can help to recover degraded lands, they have promoti ng to
plan for plant indigo plant because it can improve the li vel ihoods of rural communities in the
region. In thi s research, the researcher experiment using different types of fabrics, which are
included silk, rayon, chi ffo n, an d co tton with different type of ind igo, oxidizing agent and natural fructose. Researcher will experiment using the organi c indigo vat dye with local fruits and lime. This research also explore using different quanti ty of natural indigo dye observe the shades of indigo produced from the experiments and also test the colour fastness of the samples of experiments to achieve the true blue indi go shade. J.2 Objective of the study
The objectives of the research are 10:
J. To explore the natural indigo dye powder form and leaves.
II. To experiment lI sing natural indigo, lime and local fruits on natural fiber fabrics.
iii . To produce a coll ecti on of indigo dyed fabric s suitable for apparel.
J. 3 Research Questions
i. What are the suitable local fruit that can be used to dye with indigo and lime?
ii. What are th e type of fabrics that can be used in indigo dyeing?
iii. What is the recipe for dyeing using natural indigo"
1.4 Significance of Study
Experiment will be one of the important part in this research. The researcher used natural indigo, lime and local fruits to experiment the shade on natural fabrics . Besides that, also experiment what are the types of fabrics can be used in indigo dyeing. In this researcher, the researcher are going to produce a collection of indigo dye product. The researcher used
2 nat ural indigo dye because it safer, cleaner and is an ecological choice compared with
synthetic dye. According to Emma (2015), said that natural indigo dye do not pollute the earth, and also provide work fo r une mployme nt in rural areas.
J.5 Problem Statement
Basically this research is to substitute chemicals into natural ingredients, natura l indigo, lime and local fruits. So that, the researcher will create the organic natural indigo dye vat.
16 Scope of Study
Thi s research will be carried out the natural indigo dye at workshop located at Faculty of
Appli ed and C reati ve An s, Uni versity Malaysia Sarawak (UNIMAS) T he researcher will be carried out the experiment using the natural indigo dye, lime and local fr uits on cotton and silk fabric s.
I.7 Limitation
The researcher focus on natural indigo dye on cotton and silk fabrics. The re searcher also created an organic va t with the natural ingredients, which are indigo powder, lime and local fruits.
3 CHAPTER 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.0 Introduction
This chapter the researcher will discusses the relevant literature related to the natural indigo dye. Natural indigo dye is one of the important and unique natural dye that can create shade of blue color. Indigo dye can be obtained from the indigo plant called Indigofera. The indigo dye can produce a really beautiful and eye-catching blue color on the fabric. According to the Sandberg (1989), the word "blue" in the traditional Indian known as "Nil".
Subsequently, the name "Nil" has took over ci1anged to "Anil" by Arabs and Egyptians.
Natural indigo has been used since ancient times before the Christian era started. Until today many of the textile designers are still using it. Natural indigo is not only oldest dyestuff, it is also one of the most important dye sruff in textiles. Indigo dyeing process known as a substantive dye or fermentation bath dyeing. This is because indigo dye needs to go through a fermentation process when using indigo leaves to dye and it needs to be oxidized to produce the blue colour. Indigo is also called vat dye. According to Albert et a!. CWO I ), explained that vat dye is implies the indigo colour has to change to its water solvent leuco-frame before colouring. The lessened frame is ingested into the filaments, and oxidized back to the blue form and stays with fibre.
4 2.1 Dyes
Fabrics dyes are being used for colouring fabrics. In generally, dye are molecules or
elements which absorb into the fabrics and reflect light at specific wavelengths to give human
sight the sense of colour. There are two type of dyes which is syntheti c and natural dyes.
Natural dyes are extracted from natural substances. Which included plants, animals and
minerals. As for synthe ti c dyes, they are made in a lab and chemicals are synthesized to make
synthetic dyes.
2.2 History of Natural Dyes
Natural dyes are very old dye in textile and has been used since ancient times. According
to the article by Driessen (n. d.). the usage of natural dyes was found in China dated 2600 BC
by the earliest "'ritten records and the chemical tests of the red fabric found in burial place of
King Tutankhamen in Egypt showed the occurrence of alizarin. a colour extracted from
madder. Madder has been used for thousands years is to make the most light-fast of natural dyes, also known as Rubia tinctoria. Madder is one of the red dye made from the roots,
indigo obtained from the leaves of lndigofera tinctoria, ye ll owish obtained from the Stigmas of the Saffron plant and dogwood tree.
Protein fibres are al so known as natural fibres and they are the easiest fibres to dye using natural dyes. Natural dye are obtained from the plant source. John, Cannon and Quenet (1994) write that, common colours come from blossoming plants and they are renewrable. Dyestuffs can be obtained during most times of the years: youthful leaves and blossoms 111 spnng, develop leaves and blooms in summer, natural products in fall and bark and roots in winter.
5 According to NicDhuinnshieibhe (20()()), natural can divided into two categories v"hich arc substantive colours arc obtained from natura! sources, they are one of the most ,'c,,_trl<'nrllv le.'.UI"'. BesIdes that, natural dyes have no disposal problem because they are bl()dc'grad::ll1le obtained from the alternative source.
It also has phannacological pH0,~'C and health benefits, Due to these reason, natural dyes is one of the best choice of dyes used in textile industry. until today natural dyes are still being used, Samanta and AgaJ'\val (2009) write that, natural dyes are non-allergic, non-toxic and ceo-friendly on textile as hazardous synthetic arc not used, AccordIng to Rossi e1. at.
(nd,) said the generally natural dyes in three rypes \\/h1eh arc substantive dyes, the dyeing process without adding allY mordant and it can be bond directly to 11bres.
Adjective dyes are requires for mordant as fixation and vat dyes arc insoluble in water before use. The wash fastncss in textile dycing is very important, the fastness will affected the quality of the fabric in textiles. Accordi to the journal written by Taylor (1986), the wash fastness is reliant of the methods that usc for dyeing and application.
2.2.1 Substantive and Adjective Dyes
Natural dyes can be elassified into two categ:orles which are suostantive and adjective dyes. Adject;ve require a mordant to help to fix colour to the fibers, Substantive dyes do not require a mordant to on fiber, such as indigo or celiain hchens.
Accordmg to Centenp (20 I 0), substantive dyes arc oond directly to textile fibers without any mordant 2.2.2 Indigo Dye
In digo dye is a natural dye whi ch obtained from indigo plant. The colour of indigo dye is blue. Indigo dye ing is classified in vat dyeing. John, Cannon and Quenet (1994) mentioned th at the most critical colour substance in the leaves is a dreary compound of in doxy! call ed indican, and it is removed with heated water. .Oxygen from the air and changes over this to indigo/in which is blue and in so lubl e. According to Saxena and Raja (20 14), indi go is an important dye that produces natural blu e dye from the leaves of the pl ant call ed Ind igofera tinctoria. This plant is one of th e best plant that can provide best source of blue colour. Indigo dye has been used since traditional times until now, people are still using it to produce blue colour for the most popular fa shion wear, which is denim fabric.
2.2 .3 Indigo Plant (Pea family-Leg uminosea)
Indigo/era lineloria (grown in India), is also known as true indigo. which is
one of the indigo plant that produce the original sources of indigo dye . T he dyes
are obtained from the plant leaves. According to Paul (1998), Indi gofera is the
third largest in the Pea family -Leguminosae, there are almost 800 species. In
Africa, more than 600 can be found, approximetely 200 in Asia, in Ameri ca have
about 80. Indigofera can grow up to two meters high. The main use of Indigoferas
in African Sumatrana Gaertn is [or dyeing. Indigofera. 511ffru . licosa is one o f the
useful tropical plant, also known as Anil indigo. According to Standly and
Steyermark (1946- J976), Indigo/era Su!Jrulieasa is a meagrely spread, solidly
erec t, enduring plant and is approximately 45-20cm tall. John , Cannon and Quenet
7 (1994) said thaI. Jndigo(era S1It(rulicasa is a local of tropical America brought into
Asia and tropical West Africa. indigo(era arrecla is an indigo plant that look
woody. erect and shrub to 3m tall. /IJLilgo/era argenlea is one of the
indigofera species that look hairy and has red-orange flower. John. Cannon and
Quenet (1994) also slaled thaL lndigofera argelilea is a local of Egypt and
Ethiopia and developed all throughJ\orth Aii'iea
2.2.4 Vat Dyes
process of val dye is in a bucket or vaL process. the dye are insoluble in water before usc. Natural mdigo vat dye are used to colour natural or cellulosic
. Aspland (n. d) \\Tite. indigo was initially recouped from the water solvent glucoside indoxyl (indican) show in the plants, which arc Indiofera and tmctoria. and after that the insoluble blue item was disintegrated in wooden vats by a characteristic maturation prepare known as vatl1ng. \Vhen during the process of indigo vat sodium hydroxide is required to use as a reduce agenls it [0 remove the oxygen from val, Sodium hydroxide is ner:ded to reduce agents in indigo vat, when the oxygen has he en removed, the indigo is to be dissolve in water at room temperature. ',jot only that. calcium hydroxide is also needed in an indigo vat. Calcium bydroxide is also known as lime, which is a comrnon base to use for making indigo vat. The functIOn of calcium hydroxide is used to reduce oxygen indigo vat and to help to make the val more alkalmc. have men!loned that tbe prescribed base for an indigo vat is comcntional lIme (calcIum hydroxide) which also called "calx" or hydrated lime.
8 2.3 Past Research
According [0 Dean (201 2), he has tri ed using [he organic val which using indigo, slaked lime known as calcium hydroxide and fructo se. The ingredi ents are I part indigo, 2 pari slaked lime and 3 parts fru ctose which are 10gm indigo, 20gm calcium, 30gm fru ctose. For
20gm indigo, it will need 40gm calcium hydroxide and 60gm for fru ctose as shown in fi gure
2. 1. Dean also recommend ed usin g cotton and silk fabrics onl y. It s di scovered approach for indigo dyeing is simple and effecti ve.
Figure 2. 1 Wool Sakein Dyed
From the information given by Cordy and Yeh ( 1984), colourants from that of
natural sources can be composed by their concoction structure, in particular indigo id
(figure 2.2) , whi ch happen as colour less precursors and will changed from into purple to
blue dyes through a maturation and oxidation process.
(X = H. Br)
Figure 2.2 Representative molecular structure of natural dyes, indigoid
9 From the organic sugar vat experiment carried out by Garcia (2013), he had explained the way of using indigo (Table 2. 1) and the ingredients for organic vat dye which is I part powdered natural indigo , 2 parts calcium hydroxide and about 3 parts fructose crystals for 2 quart Mason jar.
Table 2.1 Recipe for indigo dyeing
Indigo Powder (grams) Fiber (kg) Reaction
25 grams 1kg (2.2IiJs ) Medium shade of blue
50 grams lkg (2.:%s) Medium dark blue sbade of blu e
100 grams 1kg (2.2Ib-J Dark blue
2.4 Conclusion
Brief information about natural indigo dye, their ingredi ents and va ri ous advantages of using them was discussed in this chapter. Througb tbe research founded that indigo is one of the important dye stutT in textile because it can produce the nice blue colo ur that smoothing to human eyes. Besides that, indigo dye is the one natural dye that without adding the mordant, it can be dye directly and bound with the fabrics. The recipe of natural Indigo dyes still need to be investigated, because natural dye are hard to reproduce the same shade. When during natural dye, the colour fastness is impol1 ant too.
10