EYEWITNESS TRAVEL croatia
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL CROATIA PRODUCED BY Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy PROJECT EDITOR Donatella Ceriani ART EDITOR Oriana Bianchetti EDITORS Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi Giovanna Morselli, Federica Romagnoli MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Leandro Zoppé, Gian Enrico Venturini PHOTOGRAPHER Lucio Rossi CARTOGRAPHERS Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara LS International Cartography snc, Milano ILLUSTRATORS Modi Artistici ENGLISH TRANSLATION Susan Andrews Dorling Kindersley Limited EDITORS Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild CONSULTANT Jane Foster SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Jason Little A lovely bay on the island of Mljet PRODUCTION Melanie Dowland Reproduced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan and in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd CONTENTS First American Edition 2003 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 HOW TO USE Published in the United States by DK Publishing, THIS GUIDE 6 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 INTRODUCING Copyright © 2003, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT CROATIA RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR DISCOVERING OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT CROATIA 10 OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited PUTTING CROATIA A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 ON THE MAP 12 ISBN 978-0-7566-7021-4 FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN A PORTRAIT USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL. OF CROATIA 14 Front cover main image: View of the coast and harbour from Trsteno, Dalmatia CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 24
THE HISTORY OF CROATIA 28
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. Woodcutters by Mijo Kovačić, Croa- tian National Museum of Naive Art The splendid golden beach of Bol, on the island of Brač TRAVELLERS’ SURVIVAL GUIDE NEEDS PRACTICAL WHERE TO STAY INFORMATION 218 264
WHERE TO EAT TRAVEL INFORMATION 234 274
GENERAL INDEX 282
PHRASE BOOK 295
Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish, shellfish in tomato sauce CROATIA AREA BY AREA SHOPPING CROATIA AT A GLANCE IN CROATIA 46 250
ISTRIA AND THE ENTERTAINMENT IN KVARNER AREA CROATIA 254 48 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 258 DALMATIA 88 The bustling harbour of Makarska
ZAGREB 148
CENTRAL CROATIA 166
SLAVONIA AND BARANJA 180
THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 198
The church of The Roman amphitheatre in Pula St Donat in Zadar 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE he detailed information and tips place names may refer to the same given in this guide will help you town. Where both names are officially Tto get the most out of your visit recognized, the Croatian name is given to Croatia. Introducing Croatia maps first, then the Italian in brackets. the country and sets it in its historical Restaurant and hotel recommendations and cultural context. The six sections, can be found in the section Travellers’ one dedicated to Zagreb, describe the Needs, together with information about main sights using maps, photographs shopping and entertainment.The and illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and Survival Guide has tips on everything part of Dalmatia, two languages are from transport to making a phone call, spoken (Croatian and Italian) and two as well as other practical matters.
CROATIA Each area can be easily AREA BY AREA identified by its colour- Croatia has been divided ! coded thumb tab. " " into six main areas, each ! " one identified by its own ! Introduction / 5)& 45 $&/563: "'5&3 ."/:0'5)&$0"45"-$*5*&4 colour code. On the inside 580 $&/563*&4 0' 8"3 5)& 50 &/*$& / 5)& 5) 0."/4."/"(&%50$0/26&3 $&/563: 5)&3& '0--08&% " 5)& "-."5*"/ "/% *#63 4&$0/% '-08&3*/( 0' 5)& This section describes the /*"/53*#&4"/%*/5&(3"5& "354 "/% 5)& 4$6-15034 1 front cover is a general 5)&. */50 5)&*3 4:45&. "3$)*5&$54 1"*/5&34 03 07&3 5)3&& $&/563*&4 83*5&34 "/% 4$)0-"34 0' The Lion of St Mark 5)& 3&(*0/ &/+0:&% " on the Land Gate in Zadar 5)*4 1&3*0% -"*% 5)& character and history of each map of the country 1&3*0% 0' 13041&3*5: '06/%"5*0/4 '03 5)& 8)*$) 8"4 &7&/56"--: #306()5 50 "/ '6563& %&7&-01.&/5 0' 30"5*"/ $6- &/% #: 5)& "33*7"- 0' 1&01-&4 '30. 563&"35"/%-*5&3"563& 4*" */$-6%*/( 5)& -"74 */ 5)& 5) /-"5&413*/(8)&/5)&"%3"/4," area, highlighting its showing these six areas. $&/563: "(*453"-" $0"45 30"% )"4 :&5 50 #& / "'5&3"-0/(1&3*0%0'8"34 */7"%&%#:)&"7:46..&353"''*$5)*4 "/% 6/3&45 5)& '*345 30"5*"/ ,*/(4 .645#&0/&0'5)&-07&-*&451"3540' All the most interesting '06/%&% " /&8 45"5& #-&44&% #: 6301& 30. "3-0#"( 5)& 30"% development over the 1"1"-"65)03*5:&816#-*$"/%3&-* 8*/%4 "-0/( 5)& &%(& 0' 5)& &-&#*5 (*064#6*-%*/(48"--4"/%508/)"--4 .06/5"*/ $)"*/ "/% 5)& "-."5*"/ places to visit are located 8&3*-55)&"354#&("/50'-063*4) "/%5)&*0,0701-"5&"69 &"8"3%4 centuries and what it has "/% 53"%*/( 8*5) 5)& 5"-*"/ $0"45 *4 5)& -0/( -6/"3463'"$&% *4-"/% 0' */$3&"4&% )*48"4"1&3*0%0'(3&"5 "("/%'635)&3"-0/("3&5)&*4-"/%4 $6-563"- 7*5"-*5: 8)*$) 4637*7&% 5)& "306/% !"%"3 5)04& "306/% 1-*5 on the Regional Map in $0--"14&0'5)&30"5*"/45"5&"/%*54 "/%'*/"--:5)&-07&-:*4-"/%0'-+&5 to offer the visitor today. */5&(3"5*0/*/505)&*/(%0.0'6/ 4&5*/"/";63& 4&" &)*/%"3& )*-- ("3: */ 5)& 5) $&/563: / 4*%&4 $07&3&% */ 7*/&:"3%4 "/% each chapter. "'5&3 " -0/( 4&3*&4 0' $0/'-*$54 5)& ."26*47&(&5"5*0/%0.*/"5&%#:5)& 6/("3*"/,*/(40-%5)&*4-"/%4"/% #3*()5:&--08'-08&340'#300.
"
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE HUNGARY SLOVENIA
$.$5 $=,1 % ZAGREB 675,$,6$75,$1*8/$53(1,168/$75$',7,21$//<',9,'(' $/( $//( ,A$1 # ,1727+5(($5($6!+,7(675,$,6$&(175$/3/$7($82) $5%$1 ! " .$56725/,0(6721(:,7+63$56($5($62)2$.3,1($1' ! $ BOSNIA- $6+75((6 *5(<675,$&216,6762)$675,32)(52'(' $ /20,1 HERZEGOVINA /,0(6721(:,7+5,&+62,/86(')259,1(6$1'2/,9( 8-( 8,( % # $ 75((6 $1'5('675,$,6$3/$7($8)8552:('%<7+( 5(6 ! $ 5,9(56,51$$1' $6$)$50(')25&(5($/6$1' 5,.9(1,&$ " $ View of the city of Šibenik with9(*(7$%/(6 the white dome+( of0267 the Cathedral3238/$5 of St'(67,1$7,216 James ,1675,$ $@$1$$6$1$ $ $5(25(B 29,1-8/$$1'7+( 5,-81,$7,21$/$5. 5$B,?A( Lavender flowering on the island of Hvar LOCATOR MAP +(9$51(5$5($,1&/8'(67+(&,7<2) ,-(.$$1' $67$9 $ 7+(&2$67/,1($6)$5$6$%/$1$&!22'6&29(57+( 5$/-(9,&$2572 ($ 29,1- 29,*12 KEY 1257+(51+,17(5/$1':,7+7+( ,61-$.$7,21$/$5. 5. (1- Two lane motorway, toll-free 727+(1257+$1'7+(/,79,&($.(6$7,21$/$5.72 $%,1 9(79,1B(1$7 The cathedral of St Mary the Great 7+(6287+($67 +(,6/$1'62)5.5(62?,1-$1' 0$* 0$*2 Major road on the island of Rab 2?,1-866,12 $%$5('(/,*+7)8/3/$&(672(;3/25($1<2)7+( 295$1 2'1-$1,*1$12 Minor road 72:16217+(&2$67+$9($17$/,$1$7($33($5$1&( 2?A(1,&( 56$556(5$ Motorway under construction 29,*5$',77$129$ 5SJFTUF 5SÝðF Main railway Regional Map 5SJFTUF 2EKA -KVCMKBOB 29, ,12'2/6., Tour 3$7,-$ 2852)7+(257,),(' 2:16 County border 3VQB International border 6."( 6 +OLP E A 6."(0 $SOJ-VH L Ferry route 3*4/+", I ,BSMPWBD This shows the K /"5*0/"-1"3, A Summit #6+& #6*& #V[FU 2 %FMOJDF 5063 (SPäOKBO 0'5) ,"45"7 02)-/2*% '/23+)+/4!2 7SCPWTLP '035*'*& & .BUVMKJ -IRNA %508 /4 road network and provides an .PUPWVO 01"5*+" 3BWOB + /07*(3"% 3*+&," (PSB A $*55"/07" P #PMKVO #","3 E )342! -073"/ L A 103&õ ,3"-+&7*$" "JELOLASICA 1"3&/;0 1";*/ M illustrated overview of the whole (3"õ*Àï& .0Àï&/*$& #BEFSOB 1*ï"/ 0NJÝBMK $3*,7&/*$" 734"3 #SFTUPWB 034&3" $VIDGRAD ÀJMP 1-0.*/ 1PSP[JOB ,BSMPWBD region. The most interesting 47&57*/õ&/"5 /07* 307*/+ -"#*/ 307*(/0 ,3, 7*/0%0-4,* #"-& 3BCBD #"3#"/ 7BMCJTLB +RK - 7"--& ,SL A The rocky coastline near Rovinj L A places to visit are numbered, 7FOJDF #SJOKF + ,BSMPWBD SEE ALSO .FSBH 4&/+ A 70%/+"/ %*(/"/0 $SFT #BÝLB P 'ACKA E A 33> R 0LAVNIK L N #3*+6/* A A '"Ç"/" '"4"/" E R O 33 > /"*0/"- + N and there are useful tips on 1MJUWJDB+F[FSB 1"3, R + 1-*57*$&-",&4 A -VCFOJDF -VLPWP 0UPöBD /"5*0/"-1"3, V 16-" 10-" V -PQBS + $3&4 A 2AB R -ALI2AJINAC #JIBð getting around the region 0 kilometres 30 N ,BNQPS 3"# M 0 E 3BC L 6 ,PSFOJDB J 0 miles 30 #RES R E I +BCMBOBD E Ý $OLIN E GETTING AROUND 0TPS ā L ,)+! 3%.* V by car and public transport. +(52$'6$5(*22'$1'$02725:$<)520 ,-(.$ 5NIJE E I C 72#$*5(%$6:(//$6)5208/$727+(%25'(5:,7+ B A /29(1,$+$9(12:%((1&203/(7(' +(/$5*(5,6/$1'6 /FSF[JOF I -JöLJ0TJL &$1%(5($&+('%<7285,67$1'/2&$/)(55,(6$1'7+(5($5( T /ZEBLIN )5(48(176$,/,1*6,17+(6800(56($621>7+(6(7$.(&$56 -0À*/+ -644*/0 M 0AG ,IKA 6ECJOB $/62 86(6/,1.$//7+(0$,172:16$1'7+(5(6$%86 ,OÝINJ (PTQJð %POKJ ,BSMPCBH -BQBD 7+$75816)5208/$72 5,(67(:+,/(75$,16/,1. ,-(.$ .BMJ-PÝJOK (SBöBD 3USAK 7FMJ-PÝJOK ;BEBS $"& $ * $ % ("! $1'#$*5(%:,7+!&211(&7,216 $! 727+(6287+2)52$7,$ ;BEBS
)LOVIK /:B9/@=492?30=0.09? For additional map symbols see back flap =:@9/?3084//70:1?30 -:8-492>,9/9:B=0-@47?4? ?3.09?@=D?30.3@=.3,9/ Map F2. 200. Osijek, 50 km 3:@>0>?30Ethnographic 8:9,>?0=D:1St Ivan (31 miles). Stari Mikanovci, 3 km Museum+,A4O,594 @E05 Kapistran%A A,9 (2 miles). (032) 203 137. F%?50;,9=@-0=H ,;4>?=,9B0=0-@47?49>4/0 ?301:=?%? A,9 ,;4>?=,9B,> &30A477,204>1,8:@>1:=?30 Ethnographic Museum ,=,9.4>.,9B3:B,>1,8:@> >8,77$:8,90><@0.3@=.3:1 Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. 1:=@94?4923=4>?4,91:=.0> 9am–1pm Mon–Fri; during exhi- St Bartholomew ,2,49>??30&@=6>,9/B3: %A0?4 bitions Sat & Sun 10am–noon. ,=?:71=:8?3014=>?3,71:1 B,>-@=40/30=049 ?30 ?3.09?@=D,=,=0 )309 7:6-0.,80,8,5:= 0C,8;70:1,=.34?0.?@=01=:8 &@=64>3,/8494>?=,?4A0,9/ -01:=0&@=64>3=@70&30 8474?,=D.09?=049?30 ?3 .3@=.3>?,9/>49,.080?0=D .09?@=D8:><@0>,9/-,?3> ,9/4>.,770/?30F&:B0=:1 Map F2. 36,000. Osijek, 43 B0=0,//0/?:?301:=?=0>> #4>,:1%7,A:94,H-0.,@>0:1 km (27 miles). (060) 333 444. :?3?30.3@=.3,9/?30 4?>70,9492-077?:B0=B34.3 (032) 308 937. Local: Trg 8:9,>?0=D3,A0=0.09?7D-009 ,;;0,=>?:-0307/@;-D bana Josipa Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 =09:A,?0/,9/-0?B009?308 653; Regional: Glagoljaška 27, (032) View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo ?301,K,/0??30.080?0=D The church of St Ivan, next to the 7:92>?=0?.30>:1?30,9.409? 344 034. Autumn in Vinkovci, 09?=,9.04>,.:7:@=1@7>?,?@0 fortified walls in Ilok B,77>.,9>?477-0>009#,=?> Vinkovačke Jeseni (Sep). :9<@0=0/,9//0>?=:D0/-D :1%?,=?3:7:80B :1:90:1?30&@=64>3-,?3> ?30&@=6>49 4?-0.,80, ,=0>?477A4>4-70 Map F3. 2,200. @>748.09?=0,9/,8:><@0 :@9/0/-D?30$:8,9> 9 ,1?0=34>=:7049 Osijek, 39 km (24 miles). from B,>-@47?1?0=&@=64>3=@70 B4?3?309,80:1@=074, Map G2. 6,800. Osijek, 62 B499492?30-,??70:1(4099, Osijek. Regional: Petra Krešimira ?30.4?DB,>=09:A,?0/"97D 4-,7,0?34>B,>?30-4=?3 km (38 miles). Vukovar, 39 km (24 :88,9/0= 4A4:"/0>.,7.34 IV, 1, Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. ?308:><@0,??3009/:1?30 Map F3. 12,000. Osijek, 67 ;7,.0:1?308;0=:=>(,709> miles). Local: Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, B,>24A09?30?:B9:1 7:6-D .09?=,7,A09@0B,>=0?,490/ km (41 miles). (032) 831 183. ,9/(,709?494,9,9/, (032) 590 020. Regional: Glagoljaška ?30@>?=4,98;0=:= 9?34> >8,77.:@9?=D?:B9 ?B,>.:9A0=?0/49?:?30 Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 1, (032) -4>3:;>>001=:8?30 ?3 27, Vinkovci, (032) 344 034. 4/D774.>0??49230-@47?,' (=;:7504>69:B9,> ;,=4>3.3@=.3:177%,49?> 832 711. Folklore Festival, .09?@=D 9?30 4//7020>4? Grape harvest festival (Sep–Oct). >3,;0/8,9>4:9Odescalchi ?30-4=?3;7,.0:1?30 %A4%A0?449?30 ?3 Šokačko Sijelo (Feb). B,>.,770/+09?307D0-0.,@>0 Manor&:/,D?308,9>4:9 >.@7;?:= A,9 0M?=:A4N .09?@=D :1?30;=0>09.0:1?309:B "A0=7::6492,B4/07::;49 3:@>0>?30"/0>.,7.34 G &30.09?=,7><@,=0 "9?30-:=/0=B4?3:>94, ,-,9/:90/.3@=.3:1St ?30$4A0=,9@-0 7:64>?30 :770.?4:9,=0>?,@=,9? ,9D:1?30,=?4>?>B:=6> 4>/:849,?0/-D?30 0=E02:A49,J@;,95,740> Elias%A 745,&30.3@=.3 0,>?0=98:>?.4?D49=:,?4, ;@-74.:114.0>,9/?30Civic /:9,?0/?:?30?:B930 Cathedral of St Peter ,7:92,B4/0-09/49?30 /,?0>1=:8?30 ?3.09?@=D ,9/?30.09?=0:1?30=024:9 Museum=,/>64 @E05 Detailed Information 307/492=0,?,110.?4:9 %A#0?,=-@47? %,A,$4A0=&30,=0,3,>-009 ,9/4>:90:1?30:7/0>? :1%=45081,8:@>>49.0 B4?3,=.3,0:7:24.,7,9/ .,9-0>00930=0 9 -0?B009 ,9/ 493,-4?0/>49.0,9.409??480> 8:9@809?>49%7,A:94, $:8,9?480>1:=4?>B490 0?39:2=,;34..:770.?4:9> ?30>8,77;,=4>3 -D4>3:; :>4; =:9E020149/>3,A0-009 &30 Civic ;=:/@.?4:9 9?307,?0 &30B490>:1 7:6,=0>?477 .3@=.3:1St Ivan @=,5%?=:>>8,D0= /4>.:A0=0/49,90.=:;:74> Museum=,/>64 $:8,90=,?30.4?D ;=:/@.0/30=049?30.077,=> Bust of a Woman All the important towns %A0?4 A,9 =>?4?075 ?30;=:50.?B,>?30 "90:1?3014=>?=:,? @E05>4?@,?0/49 2=0B4948;:=?,9.0 ,8:92?308,/=DB34?0 4>34>>?,?@0:1 by Meštrović, B:=6:1?30(40990>0 >0??70809?>B,>>0?@;30=0 ?301:=80= ?3 ,9/?::6?30 B490.,770/&=,849,. 3 %? :39?30,;?4>?, Vrpolje ,=.34?0.?> ,=7$L>90= 1?0=&@=64>3=@704?-0.,80 .09?@=D@>?=4,9 9,80:1@..4@8 =07401,9/,[email protected] ,9/=40/=4.3A:9 :90:1?308474?,=D>?,2492 -,==,.6>49?30 9?30 4//70 Church and Monastery of B3470:@?>4/04>,>?=46492 %.384/?&3048;:>4921,K,/0 ;:>?>:9?30 8,49><@,=03:7/> 20>4?B,>, St Ivan Kapistran and other places to visit are &30 4>17,960/-D?B: 8 474?,=D=:9?40= 149/>1=:8?30 B4?33423 Fra Bernardina Lejakovića 13. Tel (032) 746 021. by appt or Gallery%;:809,70=45, 1?-071=40>&3049?0=4:=3,> ,9/,?=,/492.09?=0 $:8,990.=:;:74> Exhibit in the B,77>?:B0=>,9/ before mass. 3,> :134>B:=6>:9 1=0>.:0>-D ,6>484745,9,9/ &30 Frontier House4>, ,9/3,>,1:767:=0 Civic Museum, 1:=?4140/-@47/492> /4>;7,D.,>?>-=:9E0>,9/ 5@/0A4?%04?E>.@7;?@=0>-D B::/09-@47/492:=4249,77D .:770.?4:9 ,=20 Vinkovci &30/0109.0>B0=0 Odescalchi Manor and Civic Museum described individually. They B::/09>.@7;?@=0> 29,E4::902,94,9/&:8,> 1=:8?300,=7D ?3.09?@=D $:8,9>,=.:;3,24 =0491:=.0/49 (:/.6,,9//0.:=,?4:9>-D @>0/-D?,C.:770.?:=>@=9? ,=0/4>;7,D0/491=:9?:1 ,9/?30?:B9B,>24A09?: Tel (032) 529 088. 4@>0;;0(:7?:74941=:8?30 ?308@>0@8 !46:7, :9?B3:>01,847D 7am–3pm, Mon–Fri, for wine tastings only. Civic Museum ?3.09?@=D&30.=D;? ,.492?302,=/094>?30 7,?0=,.<@4=0/?30?4?70:1 for restoration. 3:@>0>?30?:8->:1?30 .3@=.3:1%%@>0-4@>,9/ :@9?>:1 7:6 are listed in order and follow Map F2. 25,000. Osijek, 36 -4>3:;>%?=:>>8,D0=,9/ A,9 #:774:%A@E0-4504#:74:9 km (22 miles). (031) 811 360. /0+07,!0C??:?30.3@=.3 1=:8 ,9/?30&:B9 (031) 811 390. Kralja 4>?30 ?3.09?@=D4>3:;> ,77-:?3@9/0==0;,4= Tomislava 3, (031) 812 319. Tel (031) #,7,.0B34.33,>,9:=9,?0 ,.3%0;?08-0=,10>?4A,7:1 ,=:<@0/::=B,D 8@>4.,9/;:;@7,=?=,/4?4:9> the numbering shown on the 811 233. Ðakovo embroidery, Ðakovački Vezovi (first week in Jul). &300>?4A,7:18-=:4/0=D 4>307/49?30?:B9,9/ www.tz-djakovo.hr :1I,6:A:I,6:A,O64 2=:@;>1=:8,77:A0=?30 (0E:A44>307/,??30 .:@9?=D?,60;,=?&30>?=00?> 980/40A,7?480>?34>?:B9 -02499492:1 @7DB4?3 ,=0/0.:=,?0/>?,773:7/0=>>077 Regional Map. Detailed B,>69:B9-D?309,80:1 /4>;7,D>:1?=,/4?4:9,77:.,7 7:.,7;=:/@.0,9/8@>4.4,9> 4A4?,>D,.:,9/7,?0=,> .:>?@80>1:76/,9.492 ,9/5@2270=>;0=1:=8 ,>?=@8D,.: ,?049?30 ,9/B490?,>?492 ?3.09?@=D4?-0.,80, Civic Museum -4>3:;=4.,9/4?>[email protected] Cathedral of St Peter Trg bana Šokčevica. Tel (032) 332 information is given about Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 504. 10am–1pm, 5–7pm Tue–Fri; 0C?09/0/:A0=8:>?:1 Embroidered head-dress in the 225. 6am–noon, 3–8pm daily. 10am–1pm Sat–Sun. %7,A:94,,9/:>94, Ethnographic Museum, Županja The mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp232–3 and pp248–9 the most important sights. HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
#!% # ( # % The Visitors’ Checklist
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST provides practical information :<<:-);=:-;)514,+415)<-/77,*-)+0-;)6, Map D–E5. 11,500. Split .1-4,;7.;+-6<-,4)>-6,-:5)3-<01;1;4)6,76-7.<0- and Drvenik. Hvar (021) 741 <:-);=:-;7.<0-,:1)<1+ 15-;<76-0144;.7:5<0- 007; Jadrolinija: (021) 741 132. Trg Sveti Stjepana, (021) 741 about transport, opening times, +-6<:)4:1,/->):;;<7:A*-/16;16<0- <0+-6<=:A 059. Stari Grad (021) 765 ?0-6<0-$A:)+=;)6;7.;;)67?'1;.7=6,-,"0):7; 060; Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. <0-8:-;-6<,)A$<):1:),)6,157;>): %:)+-; Nova Riva 2, (021) 765 763. 0)>-*--64-.<*A<0-#75)6;<0-AB)6<16-;<0- Sućuraj (021) 773 228. . events and the closing dates of :7)<1)6;7>-:-1/6;)6,<0-'-6-<1)6;?07:=4-,.:75 (021) 773 203. www.tzhvar.hr =6<14 .<-: ,-.-6+-;?-:-*=14<)6, <0-+)81<)4?);57>-,.:75"0):7;<7>):6 Main square of Hvar, with the A field of lavender on the island of Hvar places of particular interest. =6,-:=;<:1)=6/):A<0-C>):A/1-61+$7+1- 7 " 3 Tomislav Square 0=:+07.<0-74A$:161 " " UIF#BQUJTU " Trg kralja Tomislava 1. (042) $IVSDI 6 %SBÝLPWJð1BMBDF are located on the town map. "-6)1;;)6+-;<:=+<=:-76 3 & $751;4)>#9=):- 7" 1BUBöJô & ï *ï * õ % $0-+);<4-;8:-;-6<4773 Trg kralja Tomislava 3. Tel (042) 210 ," - " 3 1BMBDF 7 6 & " -*ï % %& À "# ,)<-;.:75<0-<15-7.<0- 985. to the public. The rich Baroque altar in the , ) 0 6/ 7 ( * :,E,A+7=6<;?07),,-, $01;;9=):-1;<0-0-):<7.<0- Cathedral of the Assumption ï & $IVSDIPG 7 " 4U/JDIPMBT 5SBJO4UBUJPO <0-*);<176;)6,)57)<<1; <7?6)+16/<0-;9=):-1; &SEÚEZ 53( N ZBSET 67?<0-1>1+ =;-=5?01+0 <0-Town Hall:),;3) Church of St John the 1BMBDF 4-0#0%& " / 0);+744-+<176;7.?-)876; &12-H61+)<0-74,-;<*=14,16/ Baptist ; " * / 3 3$ 4 " " * & / $ 87:+-4)16.=:61<=:- 16&):)G,16=14<16<0- Sv. Ivan Krstitelj 4,* " ,"16$*/4,* Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213 166. 0 metres 200 ) /BUJPOBM 0)6,1+:).<;)6,)80):5)+A 7<01+; 7am–noon, 5.30–7.30pm daily. .:75<0- <0+-6<=:A"-5)16; +-6<=:A1<0);;16+-*--6 " " / 0 yards 200 7 , $IVSDIPG 0 7.<0-?)44)6,<0- 1;)3 )4<-:-,)6,)+47+3<7?-: $0-+0=:+0?);*=14<16 0 UIF)PMZ 1 &, " Ç <7?-:<7<0--);<7.<0- ),,-,<0);*--6<0-$7?6 16<0-):79=-; # +);<4-):-<0-764A->1,-6+- )44;16+- ?0-6!:16+- ;1<-7.) <0+-6<=:A+0=:+0 :-5)1616/7.<0-)6+1-6<?)44; -7:/-7.:)6,-6*=://)>- $0-.)D),-0);)"-6)1;;)6+- #VT 4UBUJPO For hotels and restaurants in this region see p233 and p249 % "' $ *')4'#641#6+#0 ! $ ! ! ,2'$ ..$0 -5,2'$0$ 0$4 0(-31(,12(23 5%7.26148#0 Gornji 2(-,15'("'' 4$.* 7$# 1(&,(%(" ,2. 02(, 4'#6'&(41/6*4'' '<6418+=.+8'&+06*+5 Grad 2'$'(12-07-%2'$"(27 ,#-%0- 2( '$7 %1..'%6+1056*'/75'7/ 6*%'0674;$7+.&+0) ,-5'-31$2'$.-*(2(" * ,#"3*230 *"$, *175'5/1561(6*'(+0&5(41/ (41/ 61 4#2+0#9*+%*'*7/#0 CENTRAL 20$1-%2'$"-3,207 2'$.0$1(#$,"7-%2'$ $1766'0;'#45$'(14' ZAGREB $.3!*(" 0*( +$,22'$2 2$3#(2-302 24'5'0%'+041#6+#$#%- *+5&'#6**'&10#6'& The town map shows ,#1$4$0 *&-4$0,+$,2+(,(120($1**-% 616*' #.#'1.+6*+%'4# *+5*1/'#0&#..6*' 2'$1$!3(*#(,&15$0$0$12-0$#0$. (0$# 914-51(#46+0+661 Pietà by Ivan -00$!3(*2 %2$02'$2$00(!*$$ 02'/3 )$ 6*'56#6' LOCATOR MAP Meštrović the main roads, stations, -% -+$-%2'$ ,"($,2,-!*$ . * "$1' 4$!$$,"-,4$02$#(,2- +31$3+1 '$0$ 0$ *1-2'0$$(,2$0$12(,&"'30"'$1 A O V ! R 2'$ ,"($,2"'30"'-%2 0)2'$ 0-/3$"'30"'-% T *+5$7+.&+0)'5(41/ 9*'0 car parking areas and E M 2 2'$0(,$!3(*2!72'$$13(21 ,#2'$"'30"'-% E KA 6*'2418+0%+#.#&/+0+564#6+101((+%'5 D A (,2170(* ,#$2'-#(31 '$# (*71(&, *2-"*-1$ V 9'4''0.#4)'& *'+0&'2'0&'0%' KO 2'$"(27& 2$15 103,&%0-+2'$+$#($4 *2-5$0-% ETAČ 1(41#6+#9#5241%.#+/'&(41/ E L tourist offices. -2089 ) 300(1 203,"-*-03+ Č 6*'%'064#.9+0&191(6*' M $7+.&+0)+0 ARI S A A C *'$7+.&+0)'5(41/6*' 6*%'0674;#0& B I L 9#5$7+.6#(6'46*'%+6;$'%#/'6*'5'#61(6*' U #0)18'40141(41#6+#+0 6019 A Street-by-Street Map *175'56*'24'5+&'0%;1(6*' '27$.+% ULIC A This gives a bird’s-eye view SNIČ KA A 6 ME M ARKOV TRG KA OPATIČ MEN ! of the key areas of interest in ITA *'%1.174'&6+.'5106*'411(1(6*+5(+0' 16*+%%*74%*(14/6*'%1#651(#4/51( 41#6+##./#6+# .#810+##0&"#)4'$ ! ! MATOŠEVA ULIC TODSKA the main towns and cities with *+5/75'7/*175'&+06*'52.'0&+& !1,-18+= 4<+=2#.#%'*#5914-51(#46 ME 0 metres 50 #0&&1%7/'065%1..'%6'&5+0%' KA ULICA ILO The Gallery of 0 yards 50 R Contemporary Art photographs and captions CI (,2'$3*+$0 * "$ OPATIČ .321-,$6'(!(2(-,1 !70- 2( , ,# J E ZUITSKI %-0$(&, 02(121 describing the sights. TRG The Klovićevi Dvori, ! $ ,(+.-02 ,22$+.-0 07 ! $6'(!(2(-,1(2$' 1!$$, '-31$#1(,"$ (, 7+.6$; 46*1&1: # %& 2'"$,2307$13(2 *4+56+#05+06*'(+456 60110'8'4;&#; +-, 12$07 *#.(1(6*' 6* #%#0010+5(+4'& STAR FEATURES %'0674;6*'%*74%* (41/6*+5619'49*+%* VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Church of St Mark &'5+)0'&$;#461. '5(41/6*' # (., ( & -.) 4&1!9)*%5! !9),)+! Eufrazijeva. Tel (052) 451 711. ! ! '.$+0)'4*#5# ! & ," -$&$ 1$.# 6*%'0674; Meštrović Gallery Jun–Aug: 9am–7pm daily; 7+.6106*'5+6'1(#0#0%+'06 (., &( 0 ( .1) " (+0'+%10156#5+5 ()2 3(#%.3418#(41#(! 89!.3).% Apr–May, Sep–Nov: 10am–2pm. 8'4 914-51(#+8'#46$; KEY National Museum -!23%10)%#%)2$%#/1!3%$1/+0+%#06)3(%*7420,%.$)$%*6*+5+56*' -$ $-& -# 6*'(170&'45#0&(1..19'451(6*' -/2!)#2/.!'/,$%+6;"!#+'1/4.$5/156(#5%+0# (%6+0) , %' , & )&/'(- Suggested route of Naive Art .'$+0'5%*11.#4'*'.&*'4' "!2),)#!/&40(1!2)42#4137'6!2$7+.&+0)"4),3&/1 )2(/0 # 0 ,0 *$. &- ! ./,$(" ($' &- For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp230–31 and pp246–7 40(1!2)42"%36%%. !.$"8 A mosaic in %.,!1').'3(%%7)23).'3(#%.34181!3/18 -)' )!23 (.$( ),$ the apse /&3!4142!1381/-%/&3(%/1)').!, "$( ( ).# ,- &,//1-/2!)#223),,2415)5%5%13(%#%.34 )' ( -+/ && , 1)%23(%"4),$).'(!24.$%1'/.%.4-%1/42!,3%1!3)/.2 .# ')()", ')! .%#%-"%1 3(%"!2),)#!6!2!$$%$ /*#, -$/- 3/3(% /1,$%1)3!'%)23,!22)#!,#/.#%132 !1%(%,$).3(%#(41#(&1/-!83/%03%-"%1 )'$( .$(".# *, - 2. ,2$- /.$!/& .# (./,2 Croatia’s Top Sights $ ),$/'-/**),. 2 #$-) . ")( & /$& $(" !)/,' , & )&/'(-# . -!,)'.# .# ()*2$- ), . (./,2(.# (., $- 1$.#')- $ - *.$-' &!)(. ( .# , These are given two full , &-)!, "' (.-)! 7 ')- $ - .).# , ,,$- - .# (./,2 pages. There are cutaways or &&.)1 , )- $ -!,)'.# .# (./,2 )0 ,.# *- reconstructions of historic (.# .,$/'*# & , # , #,$-. ( .# *)-.& - )0 )( .# 0 /&..# $,"$( (.#,)( 1$.##$& buildings, maps of national ( .1) (" &- .).# & !.. /,/-$-#)* /*#, -$/-1$.# parks with information about ') &)!.# -$&$ ( )( trails and facilities available, & / 1$.##$--)( and there are floorplans of the Remains/&!3( #%.3418-/2!)#&,//1 major museums. There are also &1/-3(%1!3/18/&3 !4142!1%).3(%'!1$%. #$-# - ,)/"#&2-+/ , photographs of the main sights. *),.$ )1$.#.1) -..# - ,$-.2-& !. )&/'(-)( # 1 &&$- .,$*& *- STAR FEATURES -$ )' -.)( - # * &1$.# ')- $ ( 0 ,$ .2)! Apse Mosaics The Bishop’s Residence!31)0,%!)2,%$ !&)),!,)'.# .# (./ "4),$).'$!3).'&1/-3(% 3(#%.3418./6 , # )&)"$ &!$( - ,2 , &$ .# , ' $(- .$("!,)'.# Ciborium (/42%22%5%1!,0!).3).'2"8 .3/.)/$! Stars indicate the sights )!.# - $(.- /,/- ( !22!./!0/,8038#("8 .3/.)/ )5!1).) ' $ 0 &* ,$) , & /. ,$/- !.$!0!).3).'"8!,-!),)/5!.% $-*& 2 $(.#$- , that no visitor should miss. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp222–6 and pp240–42 INTRODUCING CROATIA DISCOVERING CROATIA 1011 PUTTING CROATIA ON THE MAP 1213 A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 1423 CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 2427 THE HISTORY OF CROATIA 2843 10 INTRODUCING CROATIA DISCOVERING CROATIA ith over 4,800 km (3,000 But there is more to Croatia than miles) of Mediterranean just the coast. Inland lie the Wcoastline and 1,185 cultural hot spots of Zagreb islands, Croatia is one of and Varaždin, as well as a Europe’s leading holiday varied countryside dotted playgrounds. Close to the with castles, spa-towns and beaches there are picturesque nature parks. These pages ancient ports and excellent Mosaic of Christ pinpoint Croatia’s main restaurants with sea views. from Poreč attractions and highlights. ISTRIA AND THE KVARNER AREA • Beautiful old port towns • Imperial Opatija • Plitvice Lakes National Park • The Island of Rab Istrian port towns are notable for their stout walls, church towers, and medieval houses tumbling down steep, cobbled alleys to picturesque harbours. Prettiest is Rovinj (see p56), but Poreč (see pp53–5) with its 6th-century Basilica of Holidaymakers on the white sand beach at Makarska, Dalmatia Euphrasius and Pula (see pp60–3) with its 1st-century with the more Italianate expensive region of Croatia, Roman Amphitheatre have Istria. Arguably the greatest Dalmatia offers one of its the star attractions. The best natural wonder in Croatia is finest treats – dining al fresco way to enjoy Opatija (see p67) the Plitvice Lakes National on a terrace looking over the is by checking into one of the Park (see pp86–7). A whole sea. Swimming in the cool, grand 19th-century seafront day of lakes, cliffs, forests clean water is also a delight, promenade hotels – originally and falls will leave you both and you soon learn the art of built as holiday villas for the awe-struck and coolly finding a flat, warm rock to lie Austrian imperial elite; the refreshed. Serious bathers on and how to cross a stretch crystal chandeliers, grand should seek out the secluded, of sharp pebbles. The walk halls of stuccoed columns, sandy beach of Lopar on the round the walls at Dubrovnik elegant parks and formal island of Rab (see pp82–3), (see pp140–7) above the gardens, contrast sharply one of the most exquisite mosaic of orange-tiled roofs islands in Kvarner Bay. is amazing, as is Diocletian’s Palace in Split (see pp118– 123), a repository brimful of DALMATIA Roman, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Quaint • Carefree island hopping Trogir, (see pp112–5) an • Great seafood restaurants historic town on an island, • Beaches aplenty also cannot fail to charm. • Coastal capitals of antiquity Frequent ferry services make ZAGREB Dalmatia’s archipelago of islands easily accessible to • Sophisticated nightlife visitors: see lavender-scented • Enchanting Upper Town Hvar (see pp126–7); medieval • Cathedrals and churches Korčula (see pp132–5) prettily • Galleries and museums fortified by the Venetians; and unspoilt, pine-covered Having emerged from the Mljet (see pp136–7), with its historical shadow of Belgrade, The picturesque old Roman port of quiet coves and picturesque Croatia’s capital city, Zagreb Rovinj, Istria lakeside monastery. The most now resounds again with all Noon at Koločep 1931 by Jerolim Miše DISCOVERING CROATIA 11 its old self-confidence. At night the city comes out to play in Croatia’s classiest choice of bars, clubs, casi- nos, restaurants, theatres and concert venues. The Upper Town (see pp151–7), with its cosy medieval alleyways, churches, funicular railway and fine views, is clearly the loveliest part of Zagreb. At the city’s heart stands the Cathe- dral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (see p150) with its Neo-Gothic spires. Enjoy too the array of galleries and museums, The imposing Veliki Tabor castle in the Northern Counties especially the Gallery of Old Masters (see pp162–3), and of the Croatian aristocracy the Meštrović Gallery (see dot the landscape, while THE NORTHERN pp153–5) devoted to the most further away in Sisak, Ogulin COUNTIES renowned Croatian artist. and Hrvatska Kostajnica (see pp174–5), great castles bear • Baroque Varaždin witness to the area’s turbulent • Dramatic castles history. For nature, head south- • Historic spa-towns east to Lonjsko Polje Nature Park (see p176), home to Linked by winding country Posavina horses, Turopolje roads through green rolling spotted pigs and black storks; hills, the Northern Counties and smoke-house cottages. are best visited by hire-car from Varaždin (see pp202–3). Once the capital of Croatia, SLAVONIA AND 12th-century Varaždin may BARANJA have a medieval castle and town hall but the atmospheric • Kopački Rit Nature Park charm of its cobbles, pretty The Cathedral of the Assumption • Beautiful Osijek churches, and outdoor cafés of the Virgin Mary in Zagreb • The rural charm of Topolje is pure Austrian Baroque. The 14th-century castle Veliki The flat, fertile plains of Tabor (see p210) looks good CENTRAL CROATIA Slavonia contain Kopački Rit from the outside, but the Nature Park (see pp194–5), a century older Trakošćan (see • Fairytale Samobor wetland extravaganza of pp206–7), overlooking a • Country houses and castles animal, fish and bird species lake, is more impressive. • Lonjsko Polje Nature Park that is best explored by boat. Nestled in a lush green forest, Stroll along the Drava at Varaždinske Toplice (see p213) The least visited part of the Osijek (see pp190–3) or enjoy is a Roman spa-town that country, Central Croatia none- a summer’s evening swim in should not be missed. theless holds several gems. the river, hot from admiring Just west of Zagreb, up in the Baroque architecture of forested hills typical of the city’s 18th-century centre, the region, lies Samobor the Tvrđa (see pp191–3). See (see p170). With trim, the Hungarian influenced pastel houses, wooden farmhouses in the bridges and a pretty trout charming countryside stream, this showcase around Topolje (see village also offers 13th- p189), many garlanded century ruins, great with drying chilli walks and family-run peppers. In much of restaurants with local the area the painful specialities. Try local Black Stork, consequences of war sausages with smoked Lonjsko Polje are all too obvious, but mustard followed by Nature Park as the rebuilding kremšnita custard shows, the astonishing pastries. Near Zagreb, the resilience of the human spirit Chilli peppers drying in the sun in country houses (see pp172–3) is also much in evidence. Topolje, Baranja 12 INTRODUCING CROATIA Putting Croatia on the Map Covering an area of 56,542 sq km (21,825 sq miles), Croatia has a population of around 4,437,460 with an average of 78 inhabitants per square kilometre. Since A USTR the break-up of the former Yugoslavia, and Croatian E57 independence, the country has been bordered by Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia-Herzegovina and the two Graz now independent republics of Serbia, and Montenegro. It is not a large country, but it has a wide variety of natural and man-made environments. From a E66 topographical point of view the country is made up of three types of terrain. Much is mountainous, with peaks up to 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high, mostly covered E59 with forest and pasture. The vast Pannonian Plain lies E61 between the rivers Drava, Sava and the Danube. Coastal Croatia is nearly 600 km (372 miles) long, but E57 over 2,000 km (1,242 miles) long when the indented S coastline is taken into account, and twice that when av a the hundreds of islands are included. LJUBLJANA A3 A31 E70 E70 SLOVENIA Verona Trieste Samob Venice 1 E70 A E751 Karl A9 Rijeka A8 r a Pazin b A6 CRo Poreč/ D A7 32 42 A13 Parenzo Po Krk Rovinj/ E751 Krk Slun Labin E45 Rovigno Pula/ Cres Pola Senj Cres 50 52 Rab Otočac E65 Bologna 25 Losˇ Gospic´ inj Veli Lošinj A1 E IT ALY Pag Pag 50 E35 ADRIATIC Zadar Dug i Otok E65 Florence S. MARINO Ancona K or nat 16 SEA Pescara E55 Satellite view of Croatia E80 PUTTING CROATIA ON THE MAP 13 CROATIA AND EUROPE FINLAND Györ NORWAY E60 E65 ATLANTIC SWEDEN ESTONIA E59 84 UNITED LATVIA IA IRELAND KINGDOM DENMARK LITHUANIA RUSSIA THE BELORUSSIA HUNGARY NETHERLANDS POLAND E66 BELGIUM GERMANY ATLANTIC LUXEMBOURG CZECH REPUPLIC UKRAINE OCEAN SLOVAKIA FRANCE AUSTRIA Lake SWITZERLAND Balaton HUNGARY SLOVENIA Zagreb ROMANIA BOSNIA PORTUGAL HERZEGOVINA ANDORRA SERBIA CROATIA MONTENEGRO CORSICA KOSOVO SPAIN BULGARIA ALBANIA SARDINIA ITALY GREECE Čakovec MOROCCO ALGERIA TUNISIA Varaždin A4 Koprivnica i o b u a n A2 D ZAGREB Bjelovar D r a v or a SERBIA Čazma Virovitica E70 1 A11 Daruvar Osijek ovac Kutina Našice Sisak A3 A5 O ATIA S a Vukovar Glina v a Đakovo Požega Novi Sad Nova Gradiška nj 6 Vinkovci Slavonski Brod 4 E761 Banja Luka E73 E761 E761 E71 BOSNIA E71 HERZEGOVINA E761 Knin E71 Drniš E73 E760 E71 SARAJEVO Šibenik Sinj A1 Split E73 ˇ Bracˇ KEY Solta Mostar E65 International airport Hvar Hv ar V is A10 Ferry terminal Opuzen Motorway Korcˇula Major road A1 Lastovo Under construction Mljet National Dubrovnik Park Railway line 0 kilometres 75 International border 0 miles 50 Ferry route Bar i INTRODUCING CROATIA 15 A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA roatia forms a meeting point between the Mediterranean and central Europe, and between the Alps and the CPannonian Plain. Its relatively small territory is made up of a wide variety of landscapes. A stunningly beautiful country, it has re-emerged from the difficult years of conflict and regained its role as a popular holiday destination. Croatia seceded from the for 900 years, until 1918. Federal Socialist Republic At the end of World War I, of Yugoslavia in 1990, Croatia declared indepen- following the first free dence but, under pressure elections since World War from greater powers, II. However, the brutal agreed to become part The national flag conflict that quickly of Croatia of the kingdom of followed had disastrous Yugoslavia. From the effects on the economy and led to ruins of the Habsburg empire the damage and destruction of many emerged Yugoslavia: a new state of historic monuments and treasures. Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes. The United Nations administered Few people live in the steep disputed territories until 1995, and mountainous areas and as a result the last region, Eastern Slavonia, the forests of this region, among the was returned to Croatian adminis- most beautiful in southern Europe, tration only in January 1998. are unspoilt. The coast and larger The resolution of the conflict islands are more densely populated recreated a country which had lost and the income from tourism is its autonomy long ago in 1102, important to many. The political when Croatian nobles handed the upheavals of the last decade of the vacant crown to King Koloman. 20th century have caused a shifting Under Koloman, Croatia became of the population and many Serbs part of Hungary and remained so have moved away. Fruit seller on a boat in the port of Mali Lošinj People strolling along Krešimirova ulica in the busy centre of Split 16 INTRODUCING CROATIA 20 per cent of the population. The service industry is being overhauled and provides employment for an increasing number of workers, mainly in the tourist sector, which has recovered after a decade of recession and neglect: 7 per cent of the population is employed in this area. Fisherman mending his nets in the port of Fažana Demand for fresh fish to POPULATION supply the tourist resorts According to a census carried out in means that the fishing industry has 2001, Croatia has a population of revived and mussel farming has also 4,437,460, of which 4,399,364 are expanded, in particular along the resident. Compared with the census Limski Channel and around Ston. The of 1991 there has been a 5.2 per cent privatization of much agricultural fall in the population and a 7 per land, and the introduction of modern cent decrease in those resident. These machinery and the rationalization of figures, a reflection of the upheavals crops, have reduced the number of of the 1990s, reduce the numbers to farm workers. However, the produc- the population levels of 1968. Two tion of fruit and wine grapes has different factors were responsible for recovered, and overall quality is these changes. Firstly, the departure improving significantly. of about 400,000 Serbians (partially The urgent need to rebuild public offset by the return of Croatians and privately-owned buildings resident in other parts of former damaged during the conflict in the Yugoslavia), and secondly, the 1990s and the ever-increasing emigration of many young demand for tourist facilities people in search of work keeps the numbers employed in other countries in Europe, in the building trade high: 7 America or Australia. per cent of the workforce is The tragic events of the involved in the construction 1990s have also altered industry. However, in spite the distribution of the of an improved standard of population, emptying villages living for most of the popula- and concen trating populations in tion, unemployment is still large urban centres. Chang- high. Croatia hopes to resolve es to the size of many Woman in the typical most of its employment prob- costume of Konavle towns and cities, the result lems by joining the European of enlarging their territorial bounda- Union, and by providing land, energy ries, make detailed analysis difficult, and labour at competitive costs. The particularly with regard to Zagreb, building of a modern road network Rijeka, Split, Osijek and Zadar. with the construction of new motorways, the modernization of the ECONOMY railways and plans to improve the Manufacturing industries are concen- ports will also help to alleviate high trated in the larger cities and employ unemployment levels. A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 17 TRADITIONS AND CUSTOMS Since the rebirth of the Croatian state, all kinds of traditional festivals have reappeared. These festivals, ceremonies or games commemorate historical, religious and military events. Some festivals are expressions of primitive or ancient faith, and mix Christianity with One of many religious events in Split ancient pagan rites, others are linked Folk Festival in Ðakovo and the to the religious calendar. Traditional Moreška and Kumpanija festivals in costumes and jewellery, carefully Korčula, commemorating battles preserved by the older generation, against the Ottoman Turks. are worn on these occasions. The materials may sometimes be new but LANGUAGE the designs stay faithfully traditional. The attempt to fuse the Croatian and Other expressions of popular Serbian languages lasted more than a culture are the rites linked to the century, but in 1991 the official rhythms of farming: harvesting, language of Croatia became Croatian, bringing flocks down from the and this is now part of the constitution. mountains, felling trees. The Feast of The language has always been a St Blaise, the patron saint of fundamental part of Croatian identity, Dubrovnik, is magnificent. People even under foreign domination. The from local and surrounding parishes people continue to use three basic gather, dressed in splendid costumes dialects, štokavski in southern and and displaying ancient banners in eastern Croatia, čakavski in Istria and honour of the saint. Even the parts of Dalmatia, and kajkavski in communists were unable to suppress Zagreb and the north. A dialect similar this tradition. Another spectacular to Venetian is spoken along the coast. festivity is the Olympics of Ancient Sports in Brođanci, when young RELIGION people parade in gold-embroidered Religious feeling has always been costumes, followed by groups of important to Croatians. Religion was musicians. Other important events relegated to a secondary role during are the Festival of the Bumbari in the communist period but the great Vodnjan with its donkey race, the sanctuaries are once again centres of spirituality. In the 2001 census, over 90 per cent declared they were Christian (88 per cent Catholic, 4 per cent Orthodox), with a Muslim minority, mostly Bosnians, and a Pro- testant minority, mostly Hungarians. The Ortho- dox community has shrunk due to the fall in The lively centre of Split, a popular meeting place the number of Serbians. 18 INTRODUCING CROATIA The Landscape and Wildlife of Croatia A wide variety of landscapes can be found in Croatia, from wild uninhabited craggy gorges to steep river valleys and a stunningly beautiful indented coastline stretching into the lower Adriatic, dotted with hundreds of islands. A plateau stretches from the Istrian peninsula towards Gorski Kotar and ends in the hilly vine-growing region of Zagorje. The geological formations produced by the porous limestone terrain called karst are found in Gorski Kotar and continue to nearby Istria and the Velebit mountains, where the combination of wind, rain and rock has created strange shapes called kukovi. Nicknames and legends have been created by folklore for these rock formations, and for the thousands of rocky islands off Seagull perched on a rocky the coast, remnants of an ancient mountain chain. outcrop near the island of Pag MOUNTAINS THE PLAIN Mountains form 40 per cent of Croatia and The plain is bordered by wide rivers which rise to nearly 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high. The also define Croatia’s borders for much of higher land is given over to sheep farming their length.The vast Pannonian Plain is the and the breeding of livestock. The forests breadbasket of Croatia. Maize, wheat, soya are mixed, with pine, fir, chestnut and and tobacco are grown here and at the beech, depending on altitude and fringes are vine-covered hills. At one time microclimate. The wildlife includes bears, there were forests here, dominated by the wolves, wild boar, lynxes, badgers, foxes, Slavonian oak, much sought-after in Europe roebucks and chamois. Forestry management for the quality of its wood. A few isolated aims to control deforestation. remnants of these forests can still be seen. The forests are a precious The oak of Slavonia, resource in Croatia. Thick famous since ancient times, vegetation covers was used to build most of more than 30 per the ships in the Venetian cent of the and Dubrovnik fleets, country. because of its extraor- dinary strength. The Croatian plain is one The chamois was thought of the most fertile to have disappeared from areas in Europe. Croatia but there are now a Some agricultural dozen or so animals produce is originating from Slovenia. exported. A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 19 NATIONAL PARKS Croatia began protecting wildlife areas of particular importance in 1949 by setting up the Plitvice Lakes National Park on the Lika plateau. A few years later, the Risnjak National Park was founded north of Rijeka, then in 1985 the Krka National Park north of Šibenik. The Paklenica National Park, at the heart of the Velebit mountain chain, dates from 1949. In 1978 it was declared a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO and later included on the list of World Heritage Sites. It is home to over 2,400 species of Risnjak National Park with its thick plant. There are four national parks in the Adriatic: forests of fir and beech the Mljet National Park, founded in 1960, the Kornati National Park (1980), the Brijuni National Park (1983) and the North Velebit National Park (1999). There are also nature reserves, oases, biotopes (environments characterized by particular conditions) and two marshes: Kopački Rit and Lonjsko Polje. In 2008, Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. THE COAST LAKES AND RIVERS The coast’s appearance is determined by the The lakes of Croatia are not large, but some extent of its exposure to the fierce, northeast are truly spectacular, as for example those of bora wind. Mediterranean flora flourishes on Plitvice and those formed by the River Krka. the sheltered side, with olives, lemon trees The rivers are another of Croatia’s valuable and vines. Low-growing vines are cultivated resources. The Danube, Drava, Sava and along the central part of the coast and on Kupa are all navigable and form international some of the islands, sheltered from the wind transport routes (although traffic is currently by stone walls. Two common plants along partly interrupted). The rivers abound with a the coast and on the islands are lavender, variety of fish and are a big attraction for particularly on Hvar, and broom. fishing enthusiasts. The marine life is Waterlilies are in flower extraordinarily varied, with a in late spring, wide range of species particularly including sea-horses. in Lonjsko Polje and Kopački Rit. Broom is a common Storks live near the rivers as sight in Croatia. In well as in protected nature spring, it bears reserves in Croatia. The wetlands bright yellow make an ideal habitat for the flowers. rare black stork. 20 INTRODUCING CROATIA Art and Artists in Croatia For centuries Croatian art has combined elements from eastern and western Europe. The coast was ruled by Venice for 400 years, and between the Middle Ages and the 17th century, Croatia was in regular contact with the other side of the Adriatic. Italian artists came to the islands to work, and the Dalmatians crossed the sea and brought Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles back to their country. After the expulsion of the Turks at the end of the 17th century, many churches were rebuilt in the Baroque style, and acquired rich ornamentation. The 20th century saw the advent of Naive painting, an important artistic trend, and sculptor Ivan Meštrović was confirmed as Croatia’s most famous contemporary artist (see p157). Maria Banac, sculpture by Ivan Meštrović the cathedral in Trogir, SCULPTURE which he started in about 1240 and which was later The art of sculpture in completed by other artists. Croatia has ancient origins This complex masterpiece and may have been inspired has columns, arches, by the local stone, used to sculpted relief figures and construct some of the most rich decoration. It is possible important Roman monu- to discern scenes from the ments in Pula and Split, life of Christ such as the which became models for Wooden panel by Andrija Buvina Annunciation, the Flight to future generations of in Split cathedral Egypt, and the Martyrdom Adriatic sculptors. on Golgotha, while other Sculpture and stone in Split and lived in the 13th sculptures represent the carving reached the height of century. The great door of months of the year. The expression with the the cathedral of his native artist’s expressive skill is Romanesque style. Dating city is testament to his skill. revealed in the figures of from this time are the This masterpiece from 1214 Adam and Eve in particular. cathedral doors of Trogir and consists of 28 wooden pan- Split, the rose windows of els depicting the life of JURAJ DALMATINAC Zadar and Rab, the capitals Christ, and uses simple lines in the cloisters in Dubrovnik allied to a wealth of detail. Juraj Dalmatinac, also known and Zadar, and much church as Giorgio Orsini, was an statuary. The technical skills MASTER RADOVAN ambassador for Dalmatian of the Renaissance period art, which was are documented in Šibenik The sculptor Master Radovan greatly cathedral, with masterpieces was of Dalmatian origin and influenced by by Juraj Dalmatinac, Nikola lived in the 13th century. His Venice. The Firentinac and Andrija Aleši. name appears on the door of artist was born The stonemasons should in Zadar in also be remembered, about 1400 and particularly those of Korčula. died in 1475. Decades of skilled work He was active Face by went into Korčula cathedral in Dalmatia Dalmatinac in and the masons’ work can and in Italy as the cathedral be seen in hundreds of other a sculptor and of Šibenik towns and cities in Croatia. an architect. Sculpture again reached a The cathedral of St James in peak in the 20th century Šibenik (see pp108–9), to with Ivan Meštrović, the which he contributed, is chief figure in a group of regarded as one of the great artists which included masterpieces of the Croatian Antun Augustinčić. Renaissance. Dalmatinac sculpted the faces on the ANDRIJA BUVINA upper part of the base of the apses and also the statues of All that is known of this The door of the cathedral of Trogir Adam and Eve at either side sculptor is that he was born by Master Radovan of the Door of Lions. A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 21 people on earth (from the ARTISTS pope to lords of the manor). Painting in Croatia cannot LOVRO DOBRIČEVIĆ boast a history equal to that of sculpture since it was only Little is known of Lovro after contact with the Marinov Dobričević (Lorenzo Venetian school at the end De Boninis), pupil of Paolo of the 16th century that Veneziano, who lived in the Croatian painting emerged 15th century and is regarded in Istria and Dalmatia. The as one of the most significant monasteries and cathedrals exponents of the Dubrovnik commissioned Venetian school. Two of his great masters to make altarpieces Polyptych by Lovro Dobričević in works are in Dubrovnik: the and in emulating these the church of St Mary of Danče Baptism of Christ (c.1448) is models the great artists of in the Dominican Museum Dubrovnik developed. VINCENT OD KASTVA and the polyptych Virgin, In the late 17th–18th Christ and the Saints Julian centuries, the Baroque style One of the most expressive and Nicholas (1465) is in the predominated in inland cycles of frescoes in Istria church of St Mary of Danče Croatia in architecture as bears the signature of this (Sv. Marije na Dančama). well as art. Baroque Istrian painter, Vincent od originated in German- Kastva (Vincenzo da Castua), JULIJE KLOVIĆ speaking areas and inspired who lived in the 15th local artists; the Austrian century. The frescoes are Julije Klović (Giulio Clovio) artist Ivan Ranger (see p206) hidden away in the small was one of the most famous was a key figure. Interest in church of St Mary (Sv. Marija Renaissance religious paintings then na Škriljinah) in Beram. The miniaturists. A dwindled, and in the 19th brightly coloured frescoes, on native of Croatia century, young artists were the side walls and the inside (he was born in inspired by pan-European façade, were painted in about Grižane in culture. In the 1930s and 1471 with assistants and 1498), his most 40s Naive Art developed. have a primitive but vigorous significant works style. The Life of are found Christ and the Virgin outside the has figures of saints; country. The the best-known painter work is the Dance developed his Miniature of Death, where craft in Venice, by Klović Death, holding a and was then scythe, punishes summoned to work in Rome, sinners, here Mantua, Perugia and represented by all numerous monasteries. He Dance of Death by Vincent od Kastva the most powerful died in Rome in 1578. THE HLEBINE SCHOOL Krsto Hegedušić (1901–75), Expressionist painter and later a Naive artist, founded a group of artists called Zemlja (“Earth”). He encouraged the work of two amateur painters from the village of Hlebine, near Koprivnica: Ivan Generalić and Franjo Mraz, who depicted their local world on glass and canvas in fresh, vivid style. Together with Mirko Virius they founded the Hlebine school which flourished from 1930 to the beginning of World War II. Many other painters, including Ivan Večenaj, Dragan Gaži, Franjo Filipović and Josip Generalić, followed their ideas, concentrating on depicting the lives of outcasts, the poor, and working folk. The Hlebine school became a world- wide phenomenon with the 1952 Venice Biennale and exhibitions in Brazil and Brussels. Naive works are on show at the Hlebine Gallery in Koprivnica and the Museum of Woodcutters by Generalić, Museum of Naive Art, Zagreb Naive Art in Zagreb. 22 INTRODUCING CROATIA Architecture in Croatia Croatian architecture, like its art, has also been influenced by Croatia’s position in Europe. Secular and religious buildings display a fusion of elements from nearby Italy and Germany and other forms originating in the Byzantine or Slavic worlds. This blending of influences was first noticeable in the time of the Romans and still continues today. Some styles became particularly important: for example the impressive cathedrals of the Adriatic coast, the legacy of many centuries of Venetian rule. In inland Croatia Baroque architecture prevails, characterized by The Byzantine basilica of exuberant decoration and expansive forms. Euphrasius in Poreč PRE-ROMANESQUE AND ROMANESQUE True Croatian architecture begins with pre-Romanesque and dates back to the time of Duke Branimir (879–92), who created the first state of Croatia. Contact with the Byzantine world influenced the look of religious buildings in Istria and Dalmatia but some decorative elements reveal the first signs of Romanesque: small churches with irregular ground-plans appear in areas inhabited by Croatian tribes. The founding of Šibenik (1066) saw the first Romanesque buildings, introduced by the Cistercians. The style spread and remained popular until the end of the 16th century, and three-aisle cathedrals with apses were built as well as monasteries with cloisters, public buildings, town halls and loggias. The façade consists of Romanesque The arched main vertical and horizontal rose window door, richly lines: the upper order is decorated The church of the Holy decorated with blind Cross in Nin (see p100), arcades and rose windows. one of the most interest- ing examples of the pre- The cathedral of Romanesque, known as St Anastasia in Zadar the world’s smallest (see p94), founded in the cathedral, was built in 9th century but rebuilt in the 9th century. It has a the 12th–13th, shows the Greek cross ground-plan links between Croatian with three apses. It is and Italian Romanesque, positioned to ensure that particularly in the façade, the sun’s rays fall in pre- similar to churches found planned positions on the in Pisa and Lucca in Italy. floor and act as a clock. GOTHIC The door with The Gothic style, more than any other in Croatia, is lasting evidence an ogival arch is of the long rule of the Venetians along the Istrian and Dalmatian decorated with thin coasts. It developed following the Venetian conquest of the spiral columns and Adriatic coast (1420) and is a fundamental expression of the has two lions on the corbel. close contact that was established. Venetian Gothic not only influenced the design of Dalmatian and Istrian churches but Rose also mansions in Pula, Rab, Pag, Zadar, Šibenik and Split. window The cathedral of St Mark in Korčula (see p132) is of Romanesque origins – the bell tower is evidence of this. The façade shows similarities with churches in Puglia in southern Italy. Gothic elements include Façade of the Town the pointed arches over the entrance door, Hall in Split which was the work of Bonino of Milan. A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 23 RENAISSANCE The Renaissance style was only able to The second storey, develop in those parts of the country with windows and a which did not fall under Turkish rule. statue of the city’s The most important architects and patron saint, St artists of the time were Juraj Blaise, in the centre, Dalmatinac (see p20), Nikola Firentinac was a later addition. and Andrija Aleši, who worked mainly The windows along the Adriatic coast. They were in Venetian all involved in the construction of Gothic symbolize churches and public buildings. The the ties between cathedral of St James in Šibenik (see Dubrovnik pp108–9) became a model for the and Venice. churches of St Stephen in Hvar, St Mary in Zadar and St Saviour in Sponza Palace in Dubrovnik (see p144) has both Gothic Dubrovnik. Renaissance buildings also and Renaissance elements, a reflection of the time it appeared in the north of Croatia, both took to build. It was begun in 1312 (the beautiful Gothic in the form of private residences windows on the first floor date from this period) and (Varaždin and Čakovec) and castles remodelled in 1516–22, when the Renaissance arcaded (Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor). loggia on the ground floor was added. BAROQUE This was the style that characterized the legitimization of Christian worship in Croatia after the expulsion of the Turks at the end of the 17th century. The signs of Ottoman rule were eradicated and architects, mainly of German extraction, constructed public and private buildings, enriching them with ornate decorations equal to those of the churches, castles and sanctuaries. The most notable examples of the Baroque style can be found in Varaždin, Požega, Osijek, Križevci, Ludbreg and Krapina. Vojković-Oršić-Rauch Palace, now home of the Croatian Historical Museum (see p158), is one of many fine Baroque buildings in Zagreb. The façade and interior have the sumptuous decorations of the time with elegant columns, scalloped windows and a decorated tympanum. MODERNISM By the 19th century Zagreb had become the centre of political and cultural life in Croatia, which gave it a prominent role as leader in the architectural field. Much experimentation took place in the following century in the capital, inspired first by the Viennese Secession style and later by Modernism. The church of St Blaise and Villa Krauss are interesting examples of the latter style. The Neo-Renaissance Mimara Museum in Zagreb This typically elegant building is The decorations in Secession style functional and are stylized and not figurative. symmetrical On the façade are sculptures and bas reliefs by the Croatian artists Robert Frangeš- Mihanović and Rudolf Valdec. The former National and University Library in the centre of Marulić Square in Zagreb was designed by a local architect, Rudolf Lubinsky. It is regarded as the most significant work in the Secession style in Croatia. 24 INTRODUCING CROATIA CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR he upheavals of the decade harvest, the threshing, fishing or from 1991–2000 inevitably hunting seasons, are also marked. Taffected the calendar of In addition, every town cele- events which characterizes the brates its patron saint’s day and cultural life of Croatia. the “town’s day”, which is linked However, concerts, theatre to episodes in the town’s history. seasons and sporting events Zagreb offers a rich calendar of have now largely been cultural events all through the resumed along with religious Typical costume year, while the festivals in the of Pag festivals and events linked to towns and villages along the local traditions. The different stages in coast are generally held during the the agricultural year, such as the grape summer season. St George’s Day, Senj (23 Festival of Amateur Film SPRING Apr). and Video, Požega (end St Vincenca’s Day, Korčula May). Screenings of short The arrival of spring in (28 Apr). The Kumpanjija amateur films and videos. Croatia coincides with a dance which commemorates series of important dates in an ancient battle between the religious calendar. Spring enemy armies is performed. SUMMER brings warmer weather and At the finale local girls in also sees the beginning of a costume dance in a circle. As this is the season when- series of festivals and events most tourists visit Croatia, which continue throughout MAY particularly Istria and the summer. Catholic Dalmatia, this is also the churches are especially busy Croatian Wine Exhibition, period when the calendar of around Easter time, with its Kutjevo (May). Displays of events is busiest. There are associated rituals. Croatian wines plus a folk- festivals dedicated to music, lore and music programme. theatre and dance, as well Days of Hvar Theatre, Hvar as many traditional festivals. (May). Annual celebration of The folk festivals held Croatian literature and theatre, throughout the summer are as well as scientific themes particularly colourful events. and presentations by scien- tists from other countries. JUNE Regatta Rovinj–Pesaro– Rovinj, Rovinj. Dance Week, Zagreb (May/ Meeting of Puppet Jun). International Theatres, Osijek (early May). festival of dance, movement Performances of professional and mime, organized in and amateur puppet theatre collaboration with European companies. associations. Tournament of Rab (9 May). Music events, Pula (all sum- Parade of costumed riders mer). Various events in the with crossbows. Roman amphitheatre. Procession during Holy Week Festival of the Small Festival of Satire, Zagreb on the island of Korčula Theatre, Rijeka (first half of (Jun). International festival May). Groups from all over celebrating the satirical. MARCH Europe participate. Josip Štolcer Slavenski Holy Week (Easter). On Memorial, Čakovec (first Korčula Easter is celebrated half of May). Musical festival with processions of dedicated to the great brotherhoods performing 20th-century Croatian mystery plays and singing. composer. Festival of Croatian APRIL Tambour Music, Osijek (mid-May). Festival of Musical Biennial of Zagreb ancient music with period (Apr). Annual festival of instruments, including the The festival of Brodsko Kolo, modern music. tambour. Slavonski Brod CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 25 AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine Hours The Dalmatian coast 10 is one of the sunniest parts of Europe, and 8 the island of Hvar 6 holds the record with its 2,700 hours of sun 4 a year. The summers along the coast are 2 hot and dry, while the inland areas have a 0 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec continental climate with hot summers and cold winters. (mid-Jul–mid-Aug). Chamber music. Split Summer (mid-Jul– mid-Aug). A programme of opera, concerts, dance, theatre and performances of the first plays written in the Croatian language. International Festival of Theatre, Pula (mid-Jul–mid- Aug). Multimedia festival with the participation of other European groups. Dubrovnik Summer Đakovački Vezovi, a folklore and embroidery festival in Đakovo Festival, Dubrovnik (mid- Jul–end Aug). The oldest Brodsko Kolo, Slavonski (first week of Jul). Folklore international festival in Brod (mid-Jun). Displays of displays and exhibition of Croatia: music, theatre, folk dancing in costume, local embroidery. folklore, ballet, with shows and exhibitions of St Theodore’s Day, Korčula performers from many regional produce. (29 Jul). The Moreška, a countries. Summer of Margherita, dance re-enacting a battle Krk Summer Festival, Krk Bakar (last week of Jun). between Christians and (mid-Jul–end Aug). Music Concerts and performances Muslims. and prose, concerts, ballet, in the čakavski dialect. International Tennis performances by young International Children’s Tournament, Umag artists and folklore. Festival, Šibenik (end (end Jul). Concerts in the Basilica Jun–beginning Jul). Festival International Folklore of Euphrasius, Poreč dedicated to the creativity of Festival, Zagreb (end Jul). (Jul–mid Sep). Performances the very young. Music, Croatian music and dance of church and secular music dance, theatre and film. with international guests. given by Croatian and Summer Festival, Hvar Pag Carnival, Pag (end Jul). European musicians. (Jun–Sep). A fun festival of Traditional dancing, kolo, music, theatre, folklore and various shows and dancing. with the local people in traditional costumes. JULY International Jazz Festival, Grožnjan (Jul–Aug). Festival klapa, Omiš (Jul). International jazz artists Celebration of traditional participate in this festival in Dalmatian songs performed the picturesque Istrian town by groups of five to ten men. of Grožnjan. Rapska fjera, Rab (Jul). For Labin Art Republic, three days the town of Rab Labin (Jul–Aug). Classical is returned to medieval concerts, folk music. times, with craft displays, Music Festival, Zadar preparation of traditional (beginning Jul–beginning dishes and an archery Aug). Church, theatre and tournament. instrumental music. The Moreška dance, Đakovački Vezovi, Đakovo Osor Music Festival, Osor St Theodore’s Day, Korčula 26 INTRODUCING CROATIA AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL Rainfall mm inches Rain is sparse along 300 12 the coast, particularly 10 in summer, when 240 there is often the 8 180 threat of drought. 6 However, in the 120 mountains, rain and 4 snow are plentiful. 60 2 In northeastern parts of the country there 0 0 FebJanMar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec may be summer thunderstorms. Winter brings snow. AUTUMN Visiting Croatia in this season means there are fewer crowds, even along the busy Adriatic coast. However this season also offers an unexpectedly rich and varied calendar of events. Many of the events are cultural but there are also several festivals celebrating wine and food – offering an ideal opportunity to discover some of the local produce of this country. SEPTEMBER Costumed jousters on horseback during the folk festival, Sinj Festival of the Golden Strings AUGUST Aug). Events include the of Slavonia, Požega (Sep). Mostra, a traditional sword Festival of folk and modern Summer Carnival, Novi dance. At one time the music using the traditional Vinodolski (Aug). festivities ended with the Slavonian instrument the Festival of the Bumbari, sacrifice of an ox. tamburica. Vodnjan (2nd Sat in Aug). Olympics of Ancient Lace Exhibition, Lepoglava “Bumbari” is what the local Sports, Brođanci (last Sun in (Sep). Exhibition of tradition- people call themselves. A Aug). Folk festival with tradi- al hand-made lace, still made folk festival in costume with tional costumes and musi- according to ancient an unusual donkey race and cians playing in the streets. methods. the preparation of crostoli, Mediterranean Sculptors’ Week of Kajkavian Culture, cakes of Venetian origin. Symposium, Labin Krapina (Sep). Festival of Baljanska Noć, Bale (Aug–Sep). A meeting place Kajkavian poetry, folk music (first Sun in Aug). for sculptors from all over and painting. Festival of the city. the world since the 1960s. International Doll Festival, Trka na prstenac, Barban Zagreb (beginning (first Sun in Aug). Sep). Jousting tournament, dating Grape Festival, Buje back as far as 1696. (3rd weekend in Sep). Sinjska Alka, Sinj Vinkovačke Jeseni, (beginning Aug). Folklore Vinkovci (Sep–Oct). festival commemorating Festival of music and victory over the Turks, with folk traditions. Parades jousting competitions for in costume. horse riders. Parades, Baroque Evenings in dancing, folk music and Varaždin, Varaždin displays of regional produce. cathedral (second half St Roch’s Day, Žrnovo and of Sep–first half of Postrana (on Korčula) (16 Festival of Vinkovačke Jeseni, Vinkovci Oct). Festival of CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 27 AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE °C °F Temperature 85 30 The climate in Croatia is typically 25 75 Mediterranean along 20 65 the coast, with mild winters and hot, dry 15 55 summers. Inland the 10 climate is continental 45 5 with hot summers and cold winters. 0 32 FebJanMar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec The mountainous areas have an alpine climate. Baroque music with the par- The Town’s Day, Lipik JANUARY ticipation of top Croatian and (4 Nov). Traditional festival European musicians. celebrating the town. International Competition for Young Pianists, Osijek OCTOBER (second half of Jan). For WINTER young musicians under 21. Dora Pejačević Memorial, Feast of St Blaise, Dubrovnik Našice (Oct). Music festival The cold makes itself felt (end Jan or early Feb). commemorating this throughout Croatia, with the Processions celebrating composer, with concerts, temperatures in Zagreb and town’s saint. performances by artists and Slavonia dropping well competitions. below freezing point and the FEBRUARY Bela Nedeja, Kastav (first cold bora wind Sun in Oct). Wine festival. sweeping across Istria Shrovetide Sezona, Marunada, Lovran (mid- and Dalmatia. But Kraljevica. Traditional Oct). Chestnut festival. Croatians still love to masked ball. Triennial of Ceramics, go out and enjoy Carnival of Rijeka, Zagreb (mid-Oct–mid-Nov). themselves and Rijeka. Colourful Ceramics festival. attend cultural parade in elaborate events. costumes. NOVEMBER Carnival of the DECEMBER Riviera, Opatija. St Martin’s Day, Dugo Selo, International Violin Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, The Town’s Day, Competition (Vaclav Velika Gorica, Zagreb County Osijek (2 Dec). Huml), Zagreb (Nov). A traditional wine Celebration of (first half of Feb). festival that celebrates the Osijek’s main feast For violinists period when the must is day with music and Costume at the Carnival under 30. turned into wine. dancing. of Lastovo Carnival, Lastovo. CROATIAN HOLIDAYS New Year’s Day 1 Jan Epiphany 6 Jan Easter Sunday and Monday Mar or Apr Labour Day 1 May Corpus Christi May or Jun Anti-Fascist Victory Day 22 Jun Statehood Day 25 Jun Victory and National Thanksgiving Day 5 Aug Assumption Day 15 Aug Independence Day 8 Oct All Saints’ Day 1 Nov Christmas 25 Dec Boxing Day 26 Dec A Baroque music ensemble playing in the cathedral, Varaždin