EYEWITNESS TRAVEL croatia EYEWITNESS TRAVEL CROATIA PRODUCED BY Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy PROJECT EDITOR Donatella Ceriani ART EDITOR Oriana Bianchetti EDITORS Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi Giovanna Morselli, Federica Romagnoli MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Leandro Zoppé, Gian Enrico Venturini PHOTOGRAPHER Lucio Rossi CARTOGRAPHERS Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara LS International Cartography snc, Milano ILLUSTRATORS Modi Artistici ENGLISH TRANSLATION Susan Andrews Dorling Kindersley Limited EDITORS Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild CONSULTANT Jane Foster SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Jason Little A lovely bay on the island of Mljet PRODUCTION Melanie Dowland Reproduced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan and in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd CONTENTS First American Edition 2003 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 HOW TO USE Published in the United States by DK Publishing, THIS GUIDE 6 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 INTRODUCING Copyright © 2003, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT CROATIA RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR DISCOVERING OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT CROATIA 10 OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited PUTTING CROATIA A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 ON THE MAP 12 ISBN 978-0-7566-7021-4 FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN A PORTRAIT USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL. OF CROATIA 14 Front cover main image: View of the coast and harbour from Trsteno, Dalmatia CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 24 THE HISTORY OF CROATIA 28 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. Woodcutters by Mijo Kovačić, Croa- tian National Museum of Naive Art The splendid golden beach of Bol, on the island of Brač TRAVELLERS’ SURVIVAL GUIDE NEEDS PRACTICAL WHERE TO STAY INFORMATION 218 264 WHERE TO EAT TRAVEL INFORMATION 234 274 GENERAL INDEX 282 PHRASE BOOK 295 Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish, shellfish in tomato sauce CROATIA AREA BY AREA SHOPPING CROATIA AT A GLANCE IN CROATIA 46 250 ISTRIA AND THE ENTERTAINMENT IN KVARNER AREA CROATIA 254 48 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 258 DALMATIA 88 The bustling harbour of Makarska ZAGREB 148 CENTRAL CROATIA 166 SLAVONIA AND BARANJA 180 THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 198 The church of The Roman amphitheatre in Pula St Donat in Zadar 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE he detailed information and tips place names may refer to the same given in this guide will help you town. Where both names are officially Tto get the most out of your visit recognized, the Croatian name is given to Croatia. Introducing Croatia maps first, then the Italian in brackets. the country and sets it in its historical Restaurant and hotel recommendations and cultural context. The six sections, can be found in the section Travellers’ one dedicated to Zagreb, describe the Needs, together with information about main sights using maps, photographs shopping and entertainment.The and illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and Survival Guide has tips on everything part of Dalmatia, two languages are from transport to making a phone call, spoken (Croatian and Italian) and two as well as other practical matters. CROATIA Each area can be easily AREA BY AREA identified by its colour- Croatia has been divided ! coded thumb tab. " " into six main areas, each ! " one identified by its own ! Introduction / 5)& 45 $&/563: "'5&3 ."/:0'5)&$0"45"-$*5*&4 colour code. On the inside 580 $&/563*&4 0' 8"3 5)& 50 &/*$& / 5)& 5) 0."/4."/"(&%50$0/26&3 $&/563: 5)&3& '0--08&% " 5)& "-."5*"/ "/% *#63 4&$0/% '-08&3*/( 0' 5)& This section describes the /*"/53*#&4"/%*/5&(3"5& "354 "/% 5)& 4$6-15034 1 front cover is a general 5)&. */50 5)&*3 4:45&. "3$)*5&$54 1"*/5&34 03 07&3 5)3&& $&/563*&4 83*5&34 "/% 4$)0-"34 0' The Lion of St Mark 5)& 3&(*0/ &/+0:&% " on the Land Gate in Zadar 5)*4 1&3*0% -"*% 5)& character and history of each map of the country 1&3*0% 0' 13041&3*5: '06/%"5*0/4 '03 5)& 8)*$) 8"4 &7&/56"--: #306()5 50 "/ '6563& %&7&-01.&/5 0' 30"5*"/ $6- &/% #: 5)& "33*7"- 0' 1&01-&4 '30. 563&"35"/%-*5&3"563& 4*" */$-6%*/( 5)& -"74 */ 5)& 5) /-"5&413*/(8)&/5)&"%3"/4," area, highlighting its showing these six areas. $&/563: "(*453"-" $0"45 30"% )"4 :&5 50 #& / "'5&3"-0/(1&3*0%0'8"34 */7"%&%#:)&"7:46..&353"''*$5)*4 "/% 6/3&45 5)& '*345 30"5*"/ ,*/(4 .645#&0/&0'5)&-07&-*&451"3540' All the most interesting '06/%&% " /&8 45"5& #-&44&% #: 6301& 30. "3-0#"( 5)& 30"% development over the 1"1"-"65)03*5:&816#-*$"/%3&-* 8*/%4 "-0/( 5)& &%(& 0' 5)& &-&#*5 (*064#6*-%*/(48"--4"/%508/)"--4 .06/5"*/ $)"*/ "/% 5)& "-."5*"/ places to visit are located 8&3&#6*-55)&"354#&("/50'-063*4) "/%5)&*0,0701-"5&"69&"8"3%4 centuries and what it has "/% 53"%*/( 8*5) 5)& 5"-*"/ $0"45 *4 5)& -0/( -6/"3463'"$&% *4-"/% 0' */$3&"4&%)*48"4"1&3*0%0'(3&"5 "("/%'635)&3"-0/("3&5)&*4-"/%4 $6-563"- 7*5"-*5: 8)*$) 4637*7&% 5)& "306/% !"%"3 5)04& "306/% 1-*5 on the Regional Map in $0--"14&0'5)&30"5*"/45"5&"/%*54 "/%'*/"--:5)&-07&-:*4-"/%0'-+&5 to offer the visitor today. */5&(3"5*0/*/505)&*/(%0.0'6/ 4&5*/"/";63& 4&" &)*/%"3& )*-- ("3: */ 5)& 5) $&/563: / 4*%&4 $07&3&% */ 7*/&:"3%4 "/% each chapter. "'5&3 " -0/( 4&3*&4 0' $0/'-*$54 5)& ."26*47&(&5"5*0/%0.*/"5&%#:5)& 6/("3*"/,*/(40-%5)&*4-"/%4"/% #3*()5:&--08'-08&340'#300. " SIGHTS AT A GLANCE HUNGARY SLOVENIA $.$5 $=,1 % ZAGREB 675,$,6$75,$1*8/$53(1,168/$75$',7,21$//<',9,'(' $/( $//( ,A$1 # ,1727+5(($5($6!+,7(675,$,6$&(175$/3/$7($82) $5%$1 ! " .$56725/,0(6721(:,7+63$56($5($62)2$.3,1($1' ! $ BOSNIA- $6+75((6 *5(<675,$&216,6762)$675,32)(52'(' $ /20,1 HERZEGOVINA /,0(6721(:,7+5,&+62,/86(')259,1(6$1'2/,9( 8-( 8,( %# $ 75((6 $1'5('675,$,6$3/$7($8)8552:('%<7+( 5(6 ! $ 5,9(56,51$$1'$6$)$50(')25&(5($/6$1' 5,.9(1,&$ " $ View of the city of Šibenik with9(*(7$%/(6 the white dome+( of0267 the Cathedral3238/$5 of St'(67,1$7,216 James ,1675,$ $@$1$$6$1$ $ $5(25(B29,1-8/$$1'7+( 5,-81,$7,21$/$5. 5$B,?A( Lavender flowering on the island of Hvar LOCATOR MAP +(9$51(5$5($,1&/8'(67+(&,7<2),-(.$$1' $67$9 $ 7+(&2$67/,1($6)$5$6$%/$1$&!22'6&29(57+( 5$/-(9,&$2572($ 29,1-29,*12 KEY 1257+(51+,17(5/$1':,7+7+(,61-$.$7,21$/$5. 5. (1- Two lane motorway, toll-free 727+(1257+$1'7+(/,79,&($.(6$7,21$/$5.72 $%,1 9(79,1B(1$7 The cathedral of St Mary the Great 7+(6287+($67+(,6/$1'62)5.5(62?,1-$1' 0$*0$*2 Major road on the island of Rab 2?,1-866,12 $%$5('(/,*+7)8/3/$&(672(;3/25($1<2)7+( 295$1 2'1-$1,*1$12 Minor road 72:16217+(&2$67+$9($17$/,$1$7($33($5$1&( 2?A(1,&( 56$556(5$ Motorway under construction 29,*5$',77$129$ 5SJFTUF 5SÝðF Main railway Regional Map 5SJFTUF 2EKA -KVCMKBOB 29, ,12'2/6., Tour 3$7,-$ 2852)7+(257,),('2:16 County border 3VQB International border 6."( 6 +OLP E A 6."(0 $SOJ-VH L Ferry route 3*4/+", I ,BSMPWBD This shows the K /"5*0/"-1"3, A Summit #6+& #6*& #V[FU 2 %FMOJDF 5063 (SPäOKBO 0'5) ,"45"7 02)-/2*% '/23+)+/4!2 7SCPWTLP '035*'*& & .BUVMKJ -IRNA %508 /4 road network and provides an .PUPWVO 01"5*+" 3BWOB + /07*(3"% 3*+&," (PSB A $*55"/07" P #PMKVO #","3 E )342! -073"/ L A 103&õ ,3"-+&7*$" "JELOLASICA 1"3&/;0 1";*/ M illustrated overview of the whole (3"õ*Àï& .0Àï&/*$& #BEFSOB 1*ï"/ 0NJÝBMK $3*,7&/*$" 734"3 #SFTUPWB 034&3" $VIDGRAD ÀJMP 1-0.*/ 1PSP[JOB ,BSMPWBD region. The most interesting 47&57*/õ&/"5 /07* 307*/+ -"#*/ 307*(/0 ,3, 7*/0%0-4,* #"-& 3BCBD #"3#"/ 7BMCJTLB +RK - 7"--& ,SL A The rocky coastline near Rovinj L A places to visit are numbered, 7FOJDF #SJOKF + ,BSMPWBD SEE ALSO .FSBH 4&/+ A 70%/+"/ %*(/"/0 $SFT #BÝLB P 'ACKA E A 33> R 0LAVNIK L N #3*+6/* A A '"Ç"/" '"4"/" E R O 33 > /"*0/"- + N and there are useful tips on 1MJUWJDB+F[FSB 1"3, R + 1-*57*$&-",&4 A -VCFOJDF -VLPWP 0UPöBD /"5*0/"-1"3, V 16-" 10-" V -PQBS + $3&4 A 2AB R -ALI2AJINAC #JIBð getting around the region 0 kilometres 30 N ,BNQPS 3"# M 0 E 3BC L 6 ,PSFOJDB J 0 miles 30 #RES R E I +BCMBOBD E Ý $OLIN E GETTING AROUND 0TPS ā L ,)+! 3%.* V by car and public transport.