©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1082

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travelers who used the Regis St Louis last edition and wrote to us with helpful I am grateful to the countless locals, expats hints, useful advice and interesting and friends who helped me along the way. In anecdotes. particular, I’d like to thank Christopher Jimenez Aaron Strathearn, Adeline Jeancler, Alan in Guayaquil, John and Eva in Quito, Claudio Maher, Alex Curry, Analisa Areyan, Angie Jones, Cruz and Aura on Floreana, Christoph Köhncke Antony Reed, Bernard Tarkali, Bob Domhof, for more Floreana insight, Jacqueline Bruns on Brian Sincock, Cagdas Citirikkaya, Lisbeth Isabela and fellow Eden shipmates Ryan, Sa- Nørholm, Carly Richardson, Caspar Höyng, rah, Kara, Owian, Amy, Nat, Havard and Mette. Charlotte Stichele, Christian Schuhmann, As always, big thanks to my partner in crime Cortney Cooper, Cristobal Lamarca, Daniel Cassandra and daughters, Magdalena and Badenas, Debbie Spicer, Dee McCombie, Don Genevieve, who joined me on the road in Brazil. Plimer, Douglas Burton, Elaine Kesten, Elena Morris, Ellen Brookes, Ellis Polin, Emma Sealey, Sandra Bao Emma Townsin, Florian Hoefliger, Frank Thom- This was the first time I’ve returned to Bue- son, Gorgonio Ruiz, Gu Xu, Hannah Small, nos Aires without seeing my godmother, Elsa Helen Rossdale, Helene Wallach, Henry Twinch, Mallarini, who had passed earlier in the year. Janet Clough, John Hunkler, Jon Wisloff, Josh I’ll miss her welcoming arms and smiles. Many Hollick-Kenyon, Katja Rantala, Katryn Mercer, thanks to Graciela and Silvia Guzmán, Lucas Ken Bastiaensen, Kristen Kiely, Lai Fatt, Lars Markowiecki, Lisa Power, Sylvia Zapiola, Madi Jensen, Lisbeth Nørholm, Louise Gungaram, Lang, Jed Rothenburg, Ivan Carrasco and Maria Cortese, Mark Candey, Martin Hell- Claudina Galiñarez (and family). Cariños to wagner, Matt Elliott, Mónica Puma, Nicholas my parents, Fung and David Bao, and brother, McPhee, Nicola Mitchell, Ofir Magdaci, Omar Daniel. Finally, lots of love to my husband, Ben Medina, Peter Westöö, Rachel Saum, Reinhold Greensfelder. Grawe, Ricardo Blasco, Robert Moltmaker, Rory O’Brien, Rosie Fowler, Rosie Leutzinger, Sara Celeste Brash Lopes, Stefan Lissinna, Steve Mirro, Teresa In Guyana thanks to Kayla, Justin and Sebas- Meadows, Thijs Plegt, Tobias van Leijsen, Uwe tian DeFreitas, Rustom, Leroy, Vanda, Shirley, Lask, Zahyra Ceballos Michelle, Lisa, Joan, Fernando, Salvador, 1083 Andrea and Loverboy. In Suriname thanks to Tom Masters Kooksie, Bert, Paul and Joke and Peter and in I’m supremely grateful to Ben Rodríguez French Guiana to my bearshapedshere travel and his team at Osprey Expeditions in buddy Eileen Smith. Caracas, who helped me at every step of the way around Venezuela. Another huge Gregor Clark debt of thanks to Paul Stanley of Angel Eco- Muchísimas gracias and muito obrigado Tours, who took so much time to read this SCENES THE BEHIND to the many Brazilians, Uruguayans and chapter and suggest changes and additions. resident expatriates who shared their love Elsewhere in Venezuela, thanks to Claudia of country and local knowledge with me, and Francisco in Choroní, Gustavo Viloria especially Maira, Alex, Gloria, Tino, Miguel, of Gravity Tours in Catatumbo, Renate and Monica, Karen, Pasca, Alain, Youri, Cecilia, José Luis of Casa del Sol and Alan Highton of Juan Manuel, Susana, Bilingue, Lucia and Catatumbo Tours in Mérida, José Yepez Vera Rodney. Back home, abrazos to Gaen, Meigan in Canaima, Carlos Acosta in Caracas, John and Chloe, who always make coming home Carlos for his driving and to the dozens of the best part of the trip. other posada owners, travel agents and trav- Alex Egerton elers I met on the way. In thanks to the usual suspects: Carolyn McCarthy Olga Mosquera, Laura Cahnspeyer, Oscar Many thanks go to coordinator Regis St Gilede, Melissa Montoya, Nicolas Solorzano, Louis and the many who helped me in my Richard, Felipe Goforit, Tyler, Alexa and Oscar research. Payan – abrazos para todos. Also a big shout to Kevin Raub, Tom Masters and MaSovaida Kevin Raub for being wonderfully supportive colleagues. Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, And big thanks to Kent ‘¿Q mas?’ and Warren who sure does do her best to teach me the for the write-up pad. Brazilian dance when I run into roadblocks on the road (even though I don’t dance!); Brian Klupfel MaSovaida Morgan; and my partners-in- Thanks always to Goyo for friendship and crime on this book, Regis St Louis and Gregor sage advice, and getting me a few gigs along Clark. On the road, Malu Sabatino, Daniella the way; to MaSovaida for putting her faith Barbosa, Helena Costa, Rodrigo Angel, Ion in me; to my fellow authors Michael and Paul David, Kely Zimath, Thiago Luiz, Marcia Ga- for their input; to Ximena at Casa Fusion zola, Edu Passarelli, Vanessa Carvalho, Mario for making some connections; to Michael Saraiva, Craig Smith and Lucas Mello. Dirninger of Andes Expeditions for the moun- taineering information and the amazing Vien- Paul Smith nese dessert; to Tjalle Boorsma of Armonia, Thanks to everybody who was so generous Ruth of Bird Bolivia, and Rodrigo Mariaca of with their information and time while I was Chalalan for encouraging my bird obsession; on the road researching. Special thanks to to Derren at Gravity Extreme for info galore; Christine Hostettler (Pro Cosara) and Karina to Jane and Dianne of Lonely Planet for their Atkinson (Para La Tierra) for their hospitality patience in schooling me on the CMS; to and great conservation work. Special thanks Roscio Ugartche in La Paz for kindness and to Carol and Shawn for making sure that restaurant advice; to Stacey and Peggy for coming home is more fun than being away! covering for me in NY; above all to my family and Eli, who encouraged and waited for me back home.

This guidebook was produced Assisting Editors Michelle THIS BOOK by the following: Bennett, Nigel Chin, Bruce This 13th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Evans, Kate Evans, Helen Planet’s South America on MaSovaida Morgan Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Char- lotte Orr, Christopher Pitts a shoestring guidebook was Product Editor Kate James researched and written by Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Regis St Louis, Sandra Bao, Mark Griffiths Celeste Brash, Gregor Clark, Thanks to Paul Harding, Alex Egerton, Brian Kluepfel, Book Designer Indra Kilfoyle, Claire Murphy, Tom Masters, Carolyn McCa- Virginia Moreno Kirsten Rawlings, Dianne rthy, Kevin Raub, Paul Smith, Assisting Cartographers Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson, Phillip Tang and Lucas Vidgen. Julie Dodkins, Valentina Amanda Williamson Kremenchutskaya, James Leversha 1084 Phillip Tang ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to those who kept near (virtually or literally) while I was far: Lisa N’paisan, Shane, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Lee, Vek Lewis, Wendy Risteska, Ben and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Waimei Garcia-Lee, Craig Burgess, Jocsan L ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Alfaro, Anna Glayzer, Geraldine Galvaing and Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Ernesto A Alanis Cataño. Sciences, 11, 1633­44. Lucas Vidgen Cover image: Scarlet Macaw, Parque Nacion- Thanks once again to the Argentines for mak- al Yasuní, Ecuador; Danita Delimont Stock/ ing a country where it’s such a joy to travel AWL © and work. On the road, to Guillermo Santos for driving way out of his way just to make sure I got there and ‘Peluca’ Dominguez for the serious schooling on San Marcos history. To América for an amazing year on top of an amazing decade and to Sofía and Teresa for being there, and being there when I got back. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1085

Index

ABBREVIATIONS to/from Suriname 927-8 Ayacucho (Per) 866-9 96, 124, 186 Arg Argentina to/from Uruguay 960-1 Bóvedas Históricas budgeting 55 Bol Bolivia to/from Venezuela 1030 Uspallata (Arg) 138 business hours 184 Bra Brazil within Argentina 186 Chan Chan (Per) 872-3 climate 54 Chi Chile within Bolivia 279 (Col) consulates 182 572-3 Col Colombia within Brazil 420 costs 181, 182, 184 El Fuerte (Bol) 255 Ecu Ecuador within Chile 538 culture 177 Estación Astronómica FG French Guiana within Colombia 633 currency 55 Muisca (Col) 558 Guy Guyana within Ecuador 731 cycling 186 Huaca Pucllana (Per) 810 Par Paraguay within French Guiana 749 drinks 180 Inka-Rakay (Bol) 241 Per Peru within Guyana 760, 767 electricity 182 Kuélap (Per) 890 Sur Suriname within Paraguay 800 embassies 182 Las Huacas del Sol y de la Uru Uruguay within Peru 911 Luna (Per) 873 environment 180-1 Ven Venezuela within Suriname 928 Lima (Per) 810 exchange rates 55 within Venezuela 1030-1 Nazca Lines (Per) food 54, 55, 179 airfares 1059 825, 826 gay travelers 182 A health 182 accommodations 1048, see Alausí (Ecu) 677 Parque Cretácico also individual cities, Algodoal (Bra) 392-3 (Bol) 243 highlights 56 individual countries Aleijadinho 408 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui history 175-7 Achupallas (Ecu) 683 Allende, Isabel 532 (Chi) 528 hitchhiking 187 activities 23-4, 25-8, 44-8, Allende, Salvador 530, 1041 Pucará 122-3 holidays 184 see also individual Alta Gracia (Arg) 107-8 Quilmes (Arg) 116 indigenous peoples 177-8 activities, individual Alter do Chão (Bra) 395-6 San Agustín (Col) 613 inflation 185 countries Sillustani (Per) 843 altitude sickness 1067 internet access 182-3 Adícora (Ven) 989 Sipán (Per) 876 Amazon Basin 11, 32 11 internet resources 55 Aguas Calientes (Per) Tafí del Valle (Arg) 111-12 itineraries 55 858-60, 859 Bolivia 256-64, 258-9 (Col) 615-16 languages 183 air passes 1058-9 Brazil 388-404 Tilcara (Arg) 122-3 legal matters 183 Argentina 186 Colombia 617-23 Tiwanaku (Bol) 207-8 lesbian travelers 182 Brazil 420 Ecuador 690-1 Túcume (Per) 876 local transportation 187 air travel 1058-9 Peru 892-900 Archipiélago Los Roques money 183-4 to/from Argentina 186 Venezuela 1014-17 (Ven) 982-5 national parks 181 to/from Bolivia 278 Amazonas (Ven) 1014-17 architecture 22 opening hours 184 to/from Brazil 418 Amazonian pink dolphin 620 Brazil 408 politics 175 to/from Chile 538 Ancud (Chi) 502-4 Ecuador 723 population 177-8 to/from Colombia 632 Andes, the 30, see also Área Natural Protegida individual countries postal services 184 to/from Ecuador 730 Punta Tombo (Arg) 161 Angel Falls (Ven) 1008 religion 178 to/from French Areguá (Par) 777-8 animals bites 1067 safety 184 Guiana 748 Arequipa (Per) 829-35, 830 animals, see wildlife- sports 180 to/from Guyana 767 Argentina 54-187, 56, 80, watching, individual telephone services 184-5 to/from Paraguay 799 , species 102 132 toilets 185 to/from Peru 911 accommodations 54, 181 Antarctica 174 tourist information 185 activities 181-2 Anticura (Chi) 494 tours 187 arts 178-9 Antofagasta (Chi) 459 travel to/from 186 Map Pages 000 bathrooms 185 archaeological sites, see travel within 186-7 Photo Pages 000 border crossings 55, 90, also Inca sites vacations 184 1086 Argentina continued beaches 22-3, 37 Punta del Diablo Valle de Cocora (Col) 603 visas 185 Algodoal (Bra) 392-3 (Uru) 954 (Col) 555 volunteering 185 Alter do Chão (Bra) Punta del Este (Uru) 950 black market 966, 1028, weather 54 395-6 Rémire-Montjoly 1050-1 wildlife 180-1 Arica (Chi) 471-4 (FG) 740 boat travel 1058, 1060 women travelers 185 Arraial d’Ajuda (Bra) 365 Reserva Natural Laguna to/from Argentina 186

INDEX INDEX Blanca (Par) 787 work 185 Atacames (Ecu) 695 to/from Brazil 419 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 283 Arica (Chi) 471-4 Bahía Inglesa (Chi) 456 to/from Colombia 633 Rosario (Arg) 81-2 Armenia (Col) 601 Búzios (Bra) 307-8 to/from Ecuador 731 Same (Ecu) 696 A- Arraial d’Ajuda (Bra) 365 Cabo de la Vela (Col) to/from French Guiana 

B 573-4 San Juan de Las 748-9  arts, see individual arts, Galdonas (Ven) 1000 individual countries Canaima (Ven) 1008-11 to/from Paraguay 799 São Luís (Bra) 384 Assis, Joaquim Maria Canoa (Ecu) 696 to/from Suriname 928 Machado de 409 Canoa Quebrada Sapzurro (Col) 586 to/from Uruguay 961 Shell Beach (Guy) 759 Asunción (Par) 771-7, 772-3 (Bra) 377 to/from Venezuela 1030 Tortuga Bay (Ecu) 715 accommodations 773-4 Encarnación (Par) 781 within Bolivia 279 Trancoso (Bra) 366 drinking 775 Fortaleza (Bra) 378 within Brazil 387, 420 Villa Gesell (Arg) 127 entertainment 775 Ilha de Marajó (Bra) within Chile 538-9 393-4 food 774-5 Belém (Bra) 389-92, 390 within Ecuador 731 Ilha Grande (Bra) 308 medical services 776 Belo Horizonte (Bra) 320-2 within French Guiana 749 Ilhéus (Bra) 363 nightlife 775 Berbice (Guy) 758-9 within Guyana 760, 767 Iquique (Chi) 467 safety 776 bicycle travel, see cycling within Paraguay 800 Isla de Margarita (Ven) shopping 775-6 Biocentro Güembe (Bol) 251 within Peru 911 1003-4 tourist information 776 bird-watching within Suriname 928 Itacaré (Bra) 362 travel to/from 776-7 Área Natural Protegida within Venezuela 1031 Jericoacoara (Bra) 380, Punta Tombo (Arg) 161 travel within 777 Bogotá (Col) 544-54, 381-2 Bahía de Caráquez 546-7 Atacama Desert (Chi) 462 Juangriego (Ven) 1002-3 (Ecu) 697 accommodations 548-50 Atacames (Ecu) 695 La Lobería (Ecu) 717 Bonito (Bra) 350 activities 545-8 Atins (Bra) 386 La Serena (Chi) 450 Caracas (Ven) 970 drinking 551-2 ATMs 1050 La Vela de Coro Chaco, the (Par) 789 entertainment 552 Awala-Yalimopo (FG) 746 (Ven) 988 Coppename Nature Ayacucho (Per) 866-9 Maceió (Bra) 367-8 Reserve (Sur) 925 festivals 548 Aymara language 1078 Máncora (Per) 877-8 Foz do Iguaçu (Bra) 336 food 550-1 Aymara people 1044 Manta (Ecu) 698 Isla Isabela (Ecu) 718 medical services 553 Mompiche (Ecu) 696 Islas Ballestas (Per) 821 nightlife 551-2 B Natal (Bra) 375 Laguna Blanca (Par) 787 safety 552 Bachelet, Michelle 528 Palomino (Col) 572 Mbaracayú Biosphere shopping 552 Bahía Blanca (Arg) 129-30 Parque Nacional Marinho Reserve (Par) 786 sights 544-5 Bahía de Caráquez (Ecu) de Fernando de Minca (Col) 569 tourist information 553 697-8 Noronha (Bra) 370 Mindo (Ecu) 662 tours 548 Bahía Inglesa (Chi) 456 Parque Nacional Natural Parque Nacional Henri travel to/from 553 Bahía Negra (Par) 788-9 Tayrona (Col) 570-1 Pittier (Ven) 985 travel within 554 Bañado la Estrella (Arg) 94 Pichilemu (Chi) 476 Parque Nacional Lauca Bolívar, Simón 266, 624, Baños (Ecu) 670-3, 671 Pinamar (Arg) 128 (Chi) 474 1019, 1040 bargaining 21, 1050 Playa Blanca (Col) 583 Parque Nacional Madidi Bolivia 188-280, 190, 221 (Col) 561-2 Playa Colorada (Bol) 261 accommodations 188, 273 (Ven) 998 Parque Nacional San Bariloche (Arg) 147-51, activities 273 Playa Medina (Ven) 1000 Rafael (Par) 784 148-9 arts 270-1 Parque Nacional Torres Barranquilla (Col) 575 Playa Pui Puy (Ven) 1000 border crossings 189, del Paine (Chi) 522 Barreirinhas (Bra) 386 Playa Querepare 213, 228, 233, 253, (Ven) 1000 Peperpot Nature Park 263, 278-9 Bartica (Guy) 759 Porto Seguro (Bra) 364 (Sur) 921 business hours 276 Basilica de Caacupé Praia da Pipa (Bra) 374 Reserva Natural Cañón climate 188 (Par) 777 de Río Claro (Col) 595 bathrooms 1054, see also Puerto Ayora (Ecu) consulates 274 715-16 Reserva Provincial individual countries Esteros del Iberá costs 189, 273, 274 Puerto Baquerizo (Arg) 90 culture 269-70 Moreno (Ecu) 717 Santa Cruz (Bol) 252 currency 189 Puerto Colombia (Ven) Map Pages 000 economy 265 985-6 Santay Island (Ecu) 706 Photo Pages 000 electricity 273 1087 embassies 274 Brazil-Colombia 400 338, 352, 399, 400, Saraguro (Ecu) 684 environment 271-2 Brazil-Guyana 399 403, 404, 418-19 Valdivia (Chi) 490 exchange rates 189 Brazil-Paraguay 338 business hours 416 Brokopondo (Sur) 922 food 189, 270 Brazil-Peru 400, 404 climate 281 Brownsberg Nature gay travelers 274 Brazil-Venezuela 399 consulates 413 Reserve (Sur) 922 health 274-5 Chile 423 costs 282, 413, 414 Bucaramanga (Col) 563-4 highlights 190 Chile-Argentina 513 culture 407-8 budgeting 19, 39-42, INDEX see also indivudual history 265-9 Chile-Bolivia 473 currency 282 countries holidays 276 Chile-Peru 473 electricity 413 Buenos Aires (Arg) 12, indigenous peoples Colombia 541, 632-3 embassies 413-14  B-C 57-79, 58, 60, 66, 12 268, 270 Colombia-Brazil 621 environment 411-12  accommodations 65-9 internet access 275 Colombia-Ecuador 615 exchange rates 282 activities 64 internet resources 189 Colombia-Panama 585 food 281, 282, 410 drinking 72-4 itineraries 189 Colombia-Peru 621 gay travelers 414 entertainment 74-5 legal matters 275 Colombia-Venezuela health 414-15 festivals 65 lesbian travelers 274 564, 567 highlights 284 food 69-72 maps 275 Ecuador 635 history 405-7 highlights 59 money 275-6 Ecuador-Colombia 667 hitchhiking 419 internet access 77 national parks 272 Ecuador-Peru 685, 686, holidays 416 689, 708 safety 76-7 opening hours 276 indigenous peoples 405 shopping 75-6 French Guiana 734 internet access 415 politics 264-5 sights 57-64 French Guiana-Brazil 740 internet resources 282 population 270 tourist information 77 French Guiana- itineraries 282 postal services 276 tours 65 Suriname 745 legal matters 415 religion 270 travel to/from 77-8 Guyana 751 lesbian travelers 414 safety 193, 276 travel within 76, 78-9 Guyana-Brazil 763 maps 415 sports 271 bus travel 1058, 1060-1, Guyana-Suriname 758 money 415-16 telephone services 276-7 see also individual cities Paraguay 769, 800 national parks 412 tourist information 277 safety 1061 Paraguay-Argentina 777, opening hours 416 tours 280 782, 785 to/from Argentina 186 politics 404-5 travel to/from 278-9 Paraguay-Bolivia 789 to/from Bolivia 278-9 population 407 travel within 279-80 Paraguay-Brazil 785 to/from Brazil 418-19 postal services 416 vacations 276 Peru 802, 911 to/from Chile 538 public holidays 416 visas 277-8 Peru-Bolivia 842, 894 to/from Ecuador 730-1 religion 408 volunteering 278 Peru-Brazil 894, 899 to/from Uruguay 961 safety 416 weather 188 Peru-Chile 828 to/from Venezuela 1030 sports 410-11 wildlife 272 Peru-Colombia 899 within Argentina 186 telephone services 417 women travelers 278 Peru-Ecuador 877, 878 within Bolivia 279 toilets 417 work 278 Suriname 914 within Brazil 421 tourist information 417 Bonito (Bra) 350-1 Suriname-French within Chile 539 tours 345, 421 books 19, see also Guiana 924 within Colombia 633 travel to/from 418-19 literature, individual Suriname-Guyana 923 within Ecuador 731 travel within 420-1 countries Uruguay 930 within Paraguay 800 vacations 416 history 1038, 1039, 1041 Uruguay-Argentina 939 within Peru 911-12 visas 417-18 border crossings 1057-8 Uruguay-Brazil 955 within Suriname 928 volunteering 418 Argentina 55 Venezuela 963, 1030 within Uruguay 961 weather 281 Argentina-Bolivia 124 Venezuela-Brazil 1015 within Venezuela 1031 wildlife 411-12 Argentina-Brazil 90 Venezuela-Colombia 997 business hours 1048-9, see Argentina-Chile 186 Borges, Jorge Luis 178 women travelers 418 also individual countries Argentina-Paraguay 96 Botafogo (Bra) 287 work 418 Búzios (Bra) 307-8 Bolivia 189 Bouterse, Desiré 925 breweries Bolivia-Argentina 233 Arequipa (Per) 834 Bóvedas Históricas C Uspallata (Arg) 138 Belém (Bra) 392 Bolivia-Brazil 253, 263 Caacupé (Par) 777 Cuenca (Edu) 682 Bolivia-Chile 228 Brasília (Bra) 339-43, 341 Cabanaconde (Per) 837 Montevideo (Uru) 938 Bolivia-Peru 213 Brazil 281-421, 284, 306, Cabo de la Vela (Col) 573-4 , , , - Paraná (Arg) 88 Brazil 282 327 340 353 388 9 Cabo Polonio (Uru) 953-4 accommodations 413 Puerto Natales (Chi) 521 Brazil-Argentina 338, Cacao (FG) 741 418-9 arts 408-10 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 287 Cachagua (Chi) 449 Brazil-Bolivia 352, 403, 404 border crossings 282, Sant Fe (Arg) 86 Cachi (Arg) 116 1088 Cafayate (Arg) 113-15, 114 travel to/from 980, 981 consulates 535-6 Ciudad del Este (Par) Cajamarca (Per) travel within 981-2 costs 535, 536 784-6 886-9, 887 Caraíva (Bra) 366 culture 531-2 Ciudad Perdida (Col) 572-3 Cajón del Maipo (Chi) 441 Carmelo (Uru) 943-4 currency 423 climate 18, 25-8, see Calama (Chi) 460 Carnaval 25-8 cycling 538 also individual countries climbing 47 Caleta Tortel (Chi) 514 Argentina 89 embassies 535-6

INDEX INDEX Arequipa (Per) 831 Cali (Col) 603-8, 604 Barranquilla (Col) 575 environment 533-5 Bolivia 273 Campo Grande (Bra) Encarnación (Par) exchange rates 423 348-50 781, 16 food 422, 423, 532-3 Cerro Aconcagua (Arg) 139 C Canaima (Ven) 1008-11 Montevideo (Uru) 933 gay travelers 536  Cordillera (Bol) 197, 199  cannabis 932 Oruro (Bol) 224 health 536 Cordillera (Per) 881 Canoa (Ecu) 696-7 Recife (Bra) 369 highlights 424 Cotopaxi (Ecu) 668 Canoa Quebrada (Bra) 377 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 293 history 529-31 La Paz (Bol) 197, 199 canoeing, see rafting safety 356 holidays 537 Mendoza (Arg) 135 Cañón del Colca (Per) Salvador (Bra) 356 indigenous peoples 835-7 Merida (Ven) 991, 993 Carretera Austral (Chil) 492, 531 Parque Nacional Los canyoning 507, 508 insurance 536 Glaciares (Arg) 163 Esquel (Arg) 154 Cartagena (Col) 16, 575-82, internet access 536 Parque Nacional Natural Mérida (Ven) 990, 991 576-7, 16 internet resources 423 El Cocuy (Col) 558-9 Puerto Varas (Chi) 495 Castro (Chi) 504-6 itineraries 423 Parque Nacional Nevado Capilla del Monte (Arg) 107 caves language 429 Tres Cruces (Chi) 457 Capurganá (Col) 585-6 Caverna de los legal matters 536 Pucón (Chi) 486 car & motorcycle travel Guácharos (Col) 595 lesbian travelers 536 Quito (Ecu) 646, 647 1061-2 Cueva del Esplendor maps 536 Riobamba (Ecu) 674-5 to/from Bolivia 279 (Col) 596 money 536-7 Roraima (Ven) 1011-12 to/from Chile 538 Cueva del Guácharo national parks 534-5 (Col) 554 within Argentina 186 (Ven) 998 opening hours 537 Volcán Chimborazo (Ecu) within Brazil 420 Gruta de San Pedro politics 530-1 676-7 within Chile 539 (Bol) 219 population 531 clothing 20 within Colombia 633 Roteiro da Caverna Aroe Jari e Lagoa Azul postal services 537 coca 237, 1052 within Ecuador 731 (Bra) 348 public holidays 537 Coca (Ecu) 688-9 within French Guiana 749 Cayenne (FG) 736-40, religion 532 cocaine 625-6 within Guyana 760, 767 736-7 safety 537 Cochabamba (Bol) within Paraguay 800 cell phones 1053, see also ski resorts 440 236-41, 238 within Peru 912 telephone services sports 533 Cochamó Valley (Chi) 495 within Suriname 928 under individual telephone services 537 Cochrane (Chi) 514 countries within Uruguay 961 toilets 537 cocoa 986 Central Suriname Nature within Venezuela 1031-2 tourist information 537 Coelho, Paulo 409 Reserve (Sur) 17, Caracas (Ven) 967-82, travel to/from 538 Coimata (Bol) 236 968, 972-3, 976-7 923-4, 17 travel within 538-9 Colchagua Valley (Chi) 475 accommodations 971-5 Cerro de Monserrate (Col) 544 vacations 537 Colombia 540-633, 542 bird-watching 970 Chachapoyas (Per) 889-90 visas 537-8 accommodations 628 drinking 977-8 Chaco, the (Par) 789-92 volunteering 538 activities 629 entertainment 978-9 Chan Chan (Per) 872-3 weather 422 arts 627 festivals 970-1 Chávez, Hugo 1020 wildlife 534 border crossings 541, food 975-7 Che Guevara 19, 81, 108, Chile Chico (Chi) 513-14 564, 567, 585, 615, internet access 979 462, 1039 Chilean miners, rescue 621, 632-3 medical services 979-80 Chichiriviche (Ven) 987 of 458 business hours 630 nightlife 977-8 Chiclayo (Per) 874-6 Chillán (Chi) 478 climate 540 safety 971, 979 consulates 629 Chile 422-539, 424, 451, Chiloé (Chi) 502-7, 502 shopping 979 461, 476, 508 Chivay (Per) 835-7 costs 541, 628, 629 sights 967-70 accommodations Chordeleg (Ecu) 683 culture 626 tourist information 980 422, 535 Chugchilán (Ecu) 669 currency 541 tours 970 activities 535 Chulumani (Bol) 218-19 electricity 629 arts 532 Chuquicamata (Chi) 460-2 embassies 629Colombia border crossings 423, cinema, see film environment 628 473, 513 exchange rates 541 Map Pages 000 Circuito Central (Par) 777-9 business hours 537 festivals 540 Photo Pages 000 Ciudad Bolívar (Ven) climate 422 1004-7, 1005 food 541, 627 1089 health 629 Correa, Rafael 719 D climate 634 highlights 542 Corrientes (Arg) 92-3 Dalcahue (Chi) 506 consulates 726-7 history 623-6 Corriverton (Guy) 758-9 dance classes costs 635, 725, 727 holidays 630-1 corruption 1035 Buenos Aires (Ar) 65, 75 culture 722 internet access 629 Corumbá (Bra) 352 Cali (Col) 605 currency 635 internet resources 541 Cosquín (Arg) 106 Córdoba (Arg) 103 economy 719 itineraries 541 Cotacachi (Ecu) 666 Medellín (Col) 592 electricity 726 INDEX language courses 629 Coyhaique (Chi) 510-12 Montevideo (Uru) 936 embassies 726-7 legal matters 629-30 costs 19, 39-42, see also Quito (Ecu) 657 environment 724-5 maps 630 individual countries Salvador (Bra) 356 exchange rates 635  C-E

 money 630 courses, see cooking Santiago (Chi) 436 food 635, 723-4 opening hours 630 classes, dance classes, dangers, see safety gay travelers 727 language classes politics 623 dengue fever 1065 health 727 credit cards 1050, 1051, postal services 630 Desierto de la Tatacoa highlights 636 see also individual public holidays 630-1 (Col) 617 history 719-22 countries responsible travel 631 dinosaurs 141, 144, holidays 728 crime, see safety safety 631 160, 558 indigenous peoples 684 Cruce de Lagos 495, Dirty War 176, 1041 sports 628 498, 539 internet access 727 disabilities, travelers with telephone services 631 Cruz del Cóndor (Per) 837 internet resources 635 910, 960, 1054 toilets 631 Cuenca (Ecu) 677-82, itineraries 635 discount cards 1049 tourist information 631 678-9 language 727 diseases 1065-7 travel to/from 632-3 Cueva del Guácharo (Ven) legal matters 727 travel within 633 998-9 diving lesbian travelers 727 vacations 630-1 Cuiabá (Bra) 346-7 Archipiélago Los Roques maps 727 (Ven) 983 visas 632 culture, see individual money 727-8 Bonito (Bra) 350 volunteering 632 countries national parks 724-5 Capurganá (Col) 585 weather 540 Curaco de Vélez (Chi) 506 opening hours 728 Caribbean Coast Curarrehue (Chi) 489 women travelers 632 (Col) 568 politics 721-2 Curicó (Chi) 477 work 632 Cartagena (Col) 579 population 722 Curitiba (Bra) 326-9 Colonia del Sacramento Puerto Baquerizo public holidays 728 (Uru) 15, 940-3, currency, see individual Moreno (Ecu) 717 religion 722 - , countries 942 3 15 Rapa Nui (Easter Island; safety 728 Commewijne River (Sur) customs regulations 1049 Chi) 527 toilets 729 921-2 Cuzco (Per) 844-54, 846 San Andrés (Col) 587 tourist information 729 Comodoro Rivadavia (Arg) accommodations Taganga (Col) 568, 569 tours 732 161-2 849-50 dolphins 620 travel to/from 730-1 Concepción (Chi) 479-80 activities 846-8 drinks, see individual travel within 731-2 Concepción (Par) 787-8 drinking 851 countries vacations 728 consulates 1049, see entertainment 851 driving, see car & also individual countries volunteering 729-30 festivals 848 motorcycle travel cooking classes 72, weather 634 food 850-1 drugs 631, 1052, see also 291, 444 wildlife 724 medical services 852 cannabis, legal matters Copacabana (Bol) women travelers 730 safety 851-2 208-13, 210 work 730 Copacabana (Bra) 283-6, shopping 851 El Bolsoń (Arg) 152-3 sights 845-6 E 295, 299-300, 302, 292 earthquakes 1052 El Calafate (Arg) 164-8, 165 tourist information 852 Copiapó (Chi) 457-8 Easter 25-8 El Chaltén (Arg) 162-4 travel to/from 852-3 Coppename Nature Easter Island (Chi) El Gigante de Atacama Reserve (Sur) 925 travel within 853-4 526-8, 526 (Chi) 471 copper mines 460, 462 cycling 1059-60, see also economy 1035, see also El Tatio (Chi) 466-7 Cordillera de los Frailes mountain biking individual countries El Valle de la Concepción (Bol) 246 Argentina 186 Ecuador 634-732, 636 (Bol) 236 Cordilleras, the Bogotá (Col) 549 accommodations El Yaque (Ven) 1001-2 Bolivia 197, 199, 216-20 Chile 538 634, 725 electricity 1049, see Peru 879-86, 885 Mendoza (Arg) 136 activities 726 also individual countries Córdoba (Arg) 101-7, 104 Quito (Ecu) 646 arts 722-3 embassies 1049, see also individual countries Coro (Ven) 987-9 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) border crossings 635, Coroico (Bol) 216-18 287, 305 667, 685, 686, 689, Encarnación (Par) 16, 779-82, , Coronel Bogado (Par) 779 Tafí del Valle (Arg) 112 708 780 16 business hours 728 Ensenada (Chi) 498 1090 environment 1035, see also Fray Bentos (Uru) 944 sights 753 H individual countries French Guiana 733-49, 735 tourist information 757 Hanga Roa (Chi) 526-8 Escobar, Pablo 589, accommodations 747 travel to/from 757-8 health 1064-8, see also 591, 625 activities 747 travel within 758 individual countries Esmeraldas (Ecu) 695 border crossings 734, Glaciar Perito Moreno hiking 24, 44-5 Esquel (Arg) 154-5 740, 745 (Arg) 13, 168, 13 Arequipa (Per) 831

INDEX INDEX etiquette 21 business hours 747 Golfo de Urabá (Col) 584-7 Baños (Ecu) 670-1 events 25-8 climate 733 Gran Sabana (Ven) 1011-14 Bogotá (Col) 545, 548 exchange rates, see consulates 747-8 Guajará-Mirim (Bra) 402-3 Capurganá (Col) 585 individual countries E-H costs 734, 747, 748 Gualaceo (Ecu) 683 Cochamó Valley  culture 747 Gualeguaychú (Arg) 89 (Chi) 495  F currency 734 Guaranda (Ecu) 673 Cordilleras (Bol) 219 Falklands War 176 electricity 747 Guatapé (Col) 596-7 Cordilleras (Peru) 885-6 FARC 545, 623, 625-6, 631, embassies 747-8 Guayana (Ven) 1004-11 Cuzco (Per) 847 1020, 1029 environment 747 Guayaquil (Ecu) 703-9, 704 El Chaltén (Arg) 162-3 favelas 294 exchange rates 734 guerillas, see FARC, Ilha de Santa Catarina Ferreñafe (Per) 876 food 733, 734 Sendero Luminoso (Bra) 330 ferries, see boat travel health 748 Guevara, Ernesto ‘Che’ 19, Inca Jungle Trail Festival Mundial de Tango highlights 735 81, 108, 462, 1039 (Per) 866 27-8 history 746-7 Guyana 750-67, 752 Inca Trail (Per) 847, 862-5 festivals 24, 25-8, 37-43, holidays 748 accommodations 765 see also Carnaval internet resources 734 activities 765 Ingapirca (Ecu) 683 film 28, 125, 128 itineraries 734 border crossings 751, Isla Navarino (Chi) 525 Fiesta de la Virgen de la 758, 763 languages 748 La Paz (Bol) 197-9 Candelaria 25-8 business hours 765 money 748 Lagunas de Mojanda Filadelfia (Par) 789-90 climate 750 (Ecu) 666 opening hours 747 film 1034 consulates 766 Lençóis (Bra) 360 postal services 748 Argentina 178 costs 751, 765, 766 Mérida (Ven) 996 public holidays 748 Brazil 408-9 culture 765 Parque Nacional da safety 748 Chile 532 currency 751 Chapada Diamantina telephone services 748 (Bra) 360 festivals 28, 125, 128 electricity 766 travel to/from 748-9 Venezuela 1022-3 embassies 766 Parque Nacional da travel within 749 Tijuca (Bra) 293 fishing environment 765 vacations 748 Parque Nacional El Ávila Coyhaique (Chi) 510-11 exchange rates 751 weather 733 (Ven) 982 Futaleufú (Chi) 509 food 751 Frutillar (Chi) 494 Parque Nacional Torres Junín De Los Andes health 766 (Arg) 144 Futaleufú (Chi) 509-10 del Paine (Chi) 522 highlights 752 Parque Nacional Cajas Parque Provincial history 764 (Ecu) 683 G Ernesto Tornquist holidays 766-7 (Arg) 131 Puerto Ayacucho (Ven) Gaiman (Arg) 161 internet access 766 Pucón (Chi) 486 1016 Galápagos Islands (Ecu) Puerto Natales (Chi) 519 Río Gallegos (Arg) 168 710-19, 711 internet resources 751 Rupununi (Guy) 761 gauchos itineraries 751 Quilotoa Loop (Ecu) 669-70 Villa Gesell (Arg) 127 Argentina 79 languages 766 Reserva Nacional Radal Floreana (Ecu) 719 money 766 Brazil 326 Siete Tazas (Chi) 479 Floresta Nacional (FLONA) opening hours 765 Uruguay 26, 932-3, Río Puelo Valley Do Tapajós (Bra) 395 politics 763 947-8 (Chi) 495 Florianópolis (Bra) 332-3 population 765 Gávea (Bra) 283 Roraima (Ven) 1011-12 food, see also cooking postal services 766 gay travelers 1049, see Salkantay Trek (Per) 866 classes, individual coun- also individual countries public holidays 766-7 tries, individual cities Sierra de las Ánima Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 301 religion 765 (Uru) 949 football, see soccer Georgetown (Guy) 753-8, telephone services 767 Sorata (Bol) 219 Formosa (Arg) 94 754-5 travel to/from 767 Sucre (Bol) 244 Fortaleza (Bra) 377-81, 378 accommodations 755-6 travel within 760, 767 Valle Lares Trek Foz do Iguaçu (Bra) drinking 757 vacations 766-7 (Per) 866 336-9, 337 entertainment 757 visas 767 Vilcabamba (Ecu) 686 food 756-7 weather 750 Villa de Leyva (Col) 556 medical services 757 women travelers 767 Map Pages 000 history 1036-41, see safety 757 Guyanese Space Center also individual countries Photo Pages 000 shopping 757 741-2 books 1038, 1039, 1041 1091 hitchhiking 1062 I Isla de los Pájaros (Arg) 159 jungle tours 257 Argentina 187 Ibarra (Ecu) 666-7 Isla de Margarita (Ven) Baños (Ecu) 671-2 Bolivia 280 Ica (Per) 822-3 1001-4, 1002, 1003 Leticia (Col) 619 Brazil 419 Icaraí de Amontada Isla del Sol (Bol) Manaus (Bra) 401-2 Ecuador 731 (Bra) 380 213-15, 215 Puerto Maldonado holidays, see individual ice trekking 523 Isla Isabela (Ecu) 718 (Per) 892

countries Iguazú Falls (Arg) 14, Isla Navarino (Chi) 525 Quito (Ecu) 647-8 INDEX Horcón (Chi) 449 100-1, 14 Isla Quinchao (Chi) 506 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 293 horse riding Iguazú Falls (Bra) 336 Isla San Cristóbal (Ecu) Tena (Ecu) 690-1

Armenia (Col) 601 Îles du Salut (FG) 742-3 717-18 Junín De Los Andes (Arg)  H-L Barra de Valizas Ilha de Marajó (Bra) 393-4 Isla Santa Cruz (Ecu) 144-5  714-17 (Uru) 953 Ilha de Santa Catarina Cuenca (Ecu) 680 (Bra) 330-3, 331 Isla Taquile (Per) 843-4 Islas Ballestas (Per) 821 K El Galope Horse Farm Ilha Grande (Bra) 308-9 Kabalebo River (Sur) 924 (Uru) 941 Ilhéus (Bra) 363-4 Islas del Rosario (Col) 582-3 Kaieteur National Park Parque Nacional Torres immigration 1042 (Guy) 759-60 del Paine (Chi) 523 Islas Uros (Per) 843 Inca empire 1037-8 Kamarata Valley (Ven) 1010 Puerto Natales (Chi) 519 Itacaré (Bra) 362-3 Inca sites Kavac (Ven) 1010 Rapa Nui (Chi) 527 Itaipú Dam (Par) 786 Cajamarca (Per) 886 Kaw Nature Reserve Rupununi (Guy) 763 Itauguá (Par) 777 Cuzco (Per) 845 (FG) 741 San Agustín (Col) 614 itineraries 29-35, , , Ingapirca (Ecu) 683 29 30 kayaking, see rafting San Pedro de Atacama 31, 32, 33, 34-5 see Isla de Sol (Bol) 213-14 kidnapping 1052 (Chi) 462 also individual countries Machu Picchu (Per) 11, Kirchner, Cristina 177 Sierra de Rocha Amazon 32 860-2, 866, 861, 10 Kirchner, Néstor 177 (Uru) 952 Andes 30 Ollantaytambo (Per) 857 Kourou (FG) 741-2 Tupiza (Bol) 231 Atlantic coast 33 Pachacamac (Per) 806 Kuélap (Per) 890 Vilcabamba (Ecu) 686 Bolivia 189 Pisac (Per) 855 hot springs Brazil 282 Pukapukara (Per) 855 Baños (Ecu) 670 Chile 423 L Q’enqo (Per) 855 Baños Morales (Chi) 441 Colombia 541 La Gran Sabana (Ven) 1006 Saqsaywamán (Per) Cajamarca (Per) 886 Ecuador 635 La (Col) 854-5 Chivay 836 French Guiana 734 573-5 Tambomachay (Per) 855 La Musui (Ven) 995 Guyana 751 La Loma (Col) 587 Inca Trail Oruro (Bol) 224 Paraguay 769 La Paloma (Uru) 954 Ecuador 683 Risaralda (Col) 600 Peru 802 La Paz (Bol) 192-207, 192, Peru 847, 862-5, 866, Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 231 Santiago (Chi) 425 194-5, 198-9 864 Salto (Uru) 946 accommodations 200-2 indigenous peoples 1044 Suriname 914 Tabay (Ven) 995 activities 197-9 Argentina 177-8 Venezuela 963 Tarapaya (Bol) 251 courses 199 Bolivia 268, 270 Iwokrama Rainforest (Guy) Termas Aguas Calientes 760-1 drinking 203-4 Brazil 405 (Chi) 494 entertainment 204 Chile 492, 531 Termas de Papallacta festivals 200 (Ecu) 661 Ecuador 684 J food 202-3 Jamaraquá (Bra) 395 Termas de Puritama Peru 903 medical services 205 Jardín (Col) 596 (Chi) 467 Ingapirca (Ecu) 683 money 205 Jatun Sacha Biological Termas de Socos insurance 1049-50 nightlife 203-4 (Chi) 450 Reserve (Ecu) 693 car 1061 safety 193, 205 Termas Jurasi (Chi) 475 health 1064 Jericoacoara (Bra) 380, 381-4 shopping 204-5 Huacachina (Per) 823-4 internet access 1050, see Jesuit Missions sights 192-6 Huanchaco (Per) 873-4 also individual countries Argentina 107-8 tourist information 206 Huaquillas (Ecu) 710 internet resources 19, see also individual countries Bolivia 256 tours 199-200 Huaraz (Per) 880-4, 880-1 Brazil 335 travel to/from 206-7 Huilliche people 492 health 1064-5 Paraguay 783-4 travel within 207 Humahuaca (Arg) 123-5 Inti Raymi 26-8 Jesús (Par) 783 La Pedrera (Uru) 954 Humaitá (Bra) 287 Ipanema (Bra) 283, 294-5, 299, 301, , , Jesús María (Arg) 107 La Quiaca (Arg) 124 Humala, Ollanta 902 296 12 38 Iquique (Chi) 467-70, Jones, Jim 764 La Rioja (Arg) 108-9 Humberstone (Chi) 471 468 Jonestown Massacre 764 La Serena (Chi) 450-4, 452 hypothermia 1067 Iquitos (Per) 896-9, 896 Isinliví (Ecu) 669 Juangriego (Ven) 1002-3 La Violencia 624-5 Isla de la Plata (Ecu) 701 Juliaca (Per) 837-8 Lago Agrio (Ecu) 687 1092 Lago Calafquén (Chi) 490 Leblon (Bra) 283 Máncora (Per) 877-9 money 19, 1050-1, see Lago Chungará (Chi) 474 legal matters 1050, see Manizales (Col) 597-9 also individual countries Lago General Carrera (Chi) also drugs, individual Manta (Ecu) 698-9, 698 Montañita (Ecu) 701-3 countries 512-13 maps 1050, see also Montecristi (Ecu) 699 Lago Nahuel Huapi (Arg) Lençóis (Bra) 360-1 individual countries Montevideo (Uru) 932-40, 151-2 lesbian travelers 1049, see Mar del Plata (Arg) 125-7 934, 935

INDEX INDEX also individual countries Lagunas de Kari Kari marijuana 932, 1052 accommodations 936-7 (Bol) 251 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 301 markets activities 933 Lagunas de Mojanda Lethem (Guy) 762 Arequipa (Per) 834 drinking 938 (Ecu) 666 L-N Leticia (Col) 618-22, 618 Cacao (FG) 741 entertainment 938-9  Lake District (Arg) Lima (Per) 803-20, 803, festivals 933, 936

Cali (Col) 608  142-54, 143 , , , 807 808-9 812 816 Cayenne (FG) 736 food 937-8 Lake Titicaca 13 accommodations 811-14 Chillán (Chi) 478 medical services 939 Bolivia 208-15, 209 activities 810 Cuenca region (Ecu) 683 shopping 939 Peru 837-44, 838, 13 drinking 815-17 Cuzco (Per) 851 sights 932-3 Lakes District (Chi) entertainment 817-18 El Bolsón (Arg) 152 tourist information 939 481-501, 482-3 food 814-15 Guayaquil (Ecu) 708 travel to/from 938, Lambayeque (Per) 876 medical services 818 La Paz (Bol) 204 939-42 language classes 1050 safety 818 Lima (Per) 818 Monumento Natural El Arequipa (Per) 832 shopping 818 Morado (Chi) 441 Otavalo (Ecu) 14, 663, 15 Bariloche (Arg) 148 sights 806-10 Morales, Evo 269 Paramaribo (Sur) 916 Bogotá (Col) 548 tourist information 819 Morro de São Paulo (Bra) Piura (Per) 876 Buenos Aires (Arg) 64-5 tours 810 361-2 Puerto Ayacucho Colombia 629 travel to/from 819-20 motorcycle travel, see car (Ven) 1015 & motorcycle travel Córdoba (Arg) 103 travel within 820 Puerto Montt (Chi) 499 mountain biking 46-7, see Cuenca (Ecu) 680 literature 19, 1034, see Quito (Ecu) 657 also cycling Cuzco (Per) 848 also books Riobamba (Ecu) 674 Baños (Ecu) 671 La Paz (Bol) 199 Argentina 178 San Salvador de Jujuy Cordilleras (Bol) 220 Medellín (Col) 591 Brazil 409 (Arg) 121 Cordilleras (Per) 881 Mérida (Ven) 991 Chile 532 Santiago (Chi) 437 La Paz (Bol) 197 Montevideo (Uru) 936 Colombia 627 São Luís (Bra) 384 Mérida (Ven) 991 Paraguay 797 Paraguay 795 São Paulo (Bra) 311 San Gil (Col) 560 Quito (Ecu) 646-7 Peru 905 Tarabuco (Bol) 246 World’s Most Dangerous Rosario (Arg) 82 Venezuela 1022 Villa Gessell (Arg) 127 Road (Bol) 197 Santiago (Chi) 429 Loja (Ecu) 684-5 Márquez, Gabriel mountaineering, see Sucre (Bol) 244 Loma Plata (Par) 790 García 627 climbing Valparaíso (Chi) 444 Los 33 (miners) 458 Maule Valley (Chi) 477-8 music 19, 1044-6 languages 21, 1069-81, see Los Ángeles (Chi) 481 Mbaracayú Biosphere Argentina 179 also language classes Los Antiguos (Arg) 162 Reserve (Par) 786 Bolivia 270 Argentina 183 Los Llanos (Ven) 996 Medellín (Col) 588-95, Brazil 409-10 Aymara 1078 , Los Nevados (Ven) 996 589 592 Colombia 627 Chile 429 medical services 1065, see Los Penitentes (Arg) 139 Ecuador 722-3 Ecuador 727 also health Paraguay 795 French Guiana 748 Mendoza (Arg) 133-8, 134 Peru 904 Guyana 766 M Menem, Carlos 177 Mabaruma (Guy) 759 Venezuela 1023 Peru 908 Mennonite colonies (Par) Macas (Ecu) 694-5 Portuguese 1069-73 789-90 Maceió (Bra) 367-8 Quechua 1078 Mercedes (Uru) 945 N Machu Picchu (Per) 11, Natal (Bra) 375-7 Rapa Nui (Chi) 526 Mérida (Ven) 990-5, 992 860-2, 866, 861, 10 national parks & reserves, Spanish 1074-8 Minca (Col) 569 tickets 847 see also individual parks Las Huacas del Sol y de la Mindo (Ecu) 661-2 & reserves Luna (Per) 873 Macri, Mauricio 175 Misahuallí (Ecu) 692-3 Argentina 181 Las Leñas (Arg) 142 Maguarí (Bra) 395 Mitad del Mundo (Ecu) Bolivia 272 Las Lomitas (Arg) 94 Maitencillo (Chi) 449 660-1 Brazil 412 Latacunga (Ecu) 668-9 Malargüe (Arg) 141-2 mobile phones 1053, see Chile 534-5 malaria 1065-6 also telephone services Mamiña (Chi) 471 under individual Ecuador 724-5 Mana (FG) 746 countries Paraguay 796 Map Pages 000 Manaus (Bra) 396-400, Mompiche (Ecu) 696 Peru 906 Photo Pages 000 401-2, 398 Mompox (Col) 583-4 Venezuela 1025 1093 Nazca (Per) 824-7, 825 exchange rates 769 Parque Nacional Chiloé de Fernando de Nazca Lines (Per) 825, 826 food 768, 769, 795 (Chi) 506-7 Noronha (Bra) 370 Neruda, Pablo 447 gay travelers 797 Parque Nacional Conguillío Parque Nacional Médanos Neuquén (Arg) 142-4 health 797 (Chi) 484-5 de Coro (Ven) 987-8 Nevados de Chillán highlights 770 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi Parque Nacional Médanos (Ecu) 667-8 del Chaco (Par) 791-2 (Chi) 479 history 792-4

Nieuw Nickerie (Sur) 924-5 Parque Nacional da Parque Nacional Mochima INDEX internet access 797 Chapada Diamantina (Ven) 998 Nuevo Rocafuerte internet resources 769 (Bra) 360 (Ecu) 689 Parque Nacional Morrocoy itineraries 769 Parque Nacional da (Ven) 987 lesbian travelers 797 Chapada Dos Parque Nacional Nahuel  N-P maps 797-8 Guimarães (Bra) 348  O Huapi (Arg) 151-2 O’Higgins, Bernado 529 money 798 Parque Nacional da Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros Olinda (Bra) 371-4, 372 national parks 796 Nahuelbuta (Chi) 480 (Bra) 342 Ollantaytambo (Per) 857-8 opening hours 797 Parque Nacional Natural El Parque Nacional da Tijuca politics 792 Cocuy (Col) 558-9 Olón (Ecu) 701 (Bra) 293 opening hours 1048-9, see population 794 Parque Nacional Natural Parque Nacional de Los Nevados (Col) also individual countries religion 795 Aparados da Serra 599-600 Oriente, the (Ecu) 687-94 responsible travel 798 (Bra) 333 Parque Nacional Natural Orinoco Delta (Ven) 1007 safety 798 Parque Nacional Tayrona (Col) 570-1, Oruro (Bol) 222-5, 222-3 sports 795 Defensores del Chaco 570-1 (Par) 791 Osorno (Chi) 493-4 telephone services 798 Parque Nacional Nevado Otavalo (Ecu) 14, 663-6, toilets 799 Parque Nacional del Tres Cruces (Chi) 457 Chicamocha (Col) 562-3 664, 15 tours 800 Parque Nacional Noel Parque Nacional dos Ouro Prêto (Bra) travel to/from 799-800 Kempff Mercado Lençóis Maranhenses 322-5, 323 (Bol) 255 travel within 800 (Bra) 386-7 visas 799 Parque Nacional Pan de Parque Nacional e Área de Azúcar (Chi) 458-9 volunteering 799 Uso Múltiple Amboró P Parque Nacional Patagonia weather 768 (Bol) 256 Pachacamac (Per) 806 (Chi) 512 wildlife 796 Parque Nacional El Ávila Palermo (Arg) 63-4, 66 Parque Nacional (Ven) 982 Palomino (Col) 572 women travelers 799 Podocarpus (Ecu) 685 Parque Nacional El Palmar Pan de Azúcar (Uru) 949 Paramaribo (Sur) 916-21, Parque Nacional Puyehue (Arg) 85 panama hats 699 916-7 (Chi) 494 Parque Nacional Henri accommodations 918-19 Parque Nacional Queulat Panatal, the (Bra) Pittier (Ven) 985-7 343-6, drinking 920 (Chi) 510 344 Parque Nacional food 919-20 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui Pantanal Paraguayo (Par) Huascarán (Per) 885-6 788-9 medical services 920 (Chi) 528 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Río paragliding nightlife 920 Huerquehue (Chi) 489 Pilcomayo (Arg) 85 Bucaramanga (Col) 563 safety 920 Parque Nacional Iguazú Parque Nacional San La Paz (Bol) 199 sights 916-18 (Arg) 100-1 Rafael (Par) 784 Mérida (Ven) 990 tourist information 920 Parque Nacional Laguna Parque Nacional Santa tours 918 del Laja (Chi) 480 Paraguay 768-800, 770, Teresa (Uru) 955-6 travel to/from 921 Parque Nacional Lanín 778-9 Parque Nacional Sierra de (Arg) 145 accommodations 768, travel within 921 las Quijadas (Arg) 131 796-7 Parque Nacional Lauca Paraná (Arg) 88-90 Parque Nacional Sierra La (Chi) 474-5 activities 797 Paranaguá (Bra) 329 Culata (Ven) 996 Parque Nacional Lihué arts 795 Paraty (Bra) 309-11 Parque Nacional Sierra Calel (Arg) 131 books 793 Parinacota (Chi) 474 Nevada (Ven) 995-6 Parque Nacional Los border crossings 769, Parque Nacional Teniente Parque Estadual da Serra Alerces (Arg) 155 777, 782, 785, 789, dos Pireneus (Bra) 342 Agripino Enciso 800 Parque Nacional Los (Par) 791 Parque Nacional Arrayanes (Arg) 146-7 business hours 797 Amacayacu (Col) 622 Parque Nacional Tierra del climate 768 Parque Nacional Los Fuego (Arg) 174 Parque Nacional Bernardo Glaciares (Arg) 163, 168 consulates 797 O’Higgins (Chi) 524 Parque Nacional Torotoro Parque Nacional Machalilla (Bol) 241 costs 769, 797 Parque Nacional Cajas (Ecu) 701 (Ecu) 683 Parque Nacional Torres del culture 794-5 Parque Nacional Madidi Paine (Chi) 15, 522-4, currency 769 Parque Nacional Canaima (Bol) 261-2 (Ven) 1008-11, 1009 523, 15 electricity 797 Parque Nacional Manu Parque Nacional Tunari embassies 797 Parque Nacional Chaco (Per) 894-5 (Arg) 85 (Bol) 241 environment 796 Parque Nacional Marinho 1094 Parque Nacional Vicente legal matters 908 Poconé (Bra) 348 Putre (Chi) 474 Pérez Rosales (Chi) 498 lesbian travelers 908 police 1052-3 Puyo (Ecu) 693-4 Parque Nacional Villarrica maps 908 politics 1034-5, see also Puyuhuapi (Chi) 510 (Chi) 490 money 908-9 individual countries Parque Nacional Yasuní national parks 906 Popayán (Col) 608-12, 610 (Ecu) 689 population 1035, see Q opening hours 907 Q’enqo (Per) 855 INDEX INDEX Parque Provincial also individual countries Aconcagua (Arg) 139 politics 902 Quebrada de Cafayate Porlamar (Ven) 1001 Parque Provincial Ernesto population 902-3 (Arg) 115-16 Porto Alegre (Bra) Tornquist (Arg) 131 postal services 909 Quebrada de Humahuaca

P- 333-6, 334  Parque Provincial public holidays 909 (Arg) 122-5

R Porto Seguro (Bra) 364-5  Ischigualasto (Arg) 141 religion 903 Quechua language 1078 Porto Velho (Bra) 402 Parque Pumalín (Chi) responsible travel 909 Quellón (Chi) 507 Portuguese language 507-9 safety 909 Quilmes (Arg) 116 1069-73 passports 1057, see sports 904 Quilotoa Loop (Ecu) 669-70 Porvenir (Chi) 525 also visas telephone services Quito (Ecu) 638-60, , Posadas (Arg) 95-7 638 Patagonia 909-10 640-1, 644-5, 650-1 postal services 1051, see Argentina 155-68, 156 toilets 910 also individual countries accommodations 648 Chile 507-24 tourist information 910 activities 643-6, 647 Potosí (Bol) 246-50, 248 Paysandú (Uru) 945-6 tours 912 entertainment 657 Praça Mauá (Bra) 287 Paz Estenssoro, Victor 267 travel to/from 911 festivals 648 Praia da Pipa (Bra) 374-5 Península de Paria (Ven) travel within 911-12 food 650-6 Providencia (Col) 588 999-1000 vacations 909 internet access 658 Pucallpa (Per) 895-6 Pereira (Col) 600-1 visas 910 medical services 658 Pucón (Chi) 486-9, 487 Perón, Eva 176 volunteering 910 nightlife 656-7 Puente del Inca (Arg) 139 Perón, Juan Domingo 176 wildlife 905-6 safety 657 Puerto Ayacucho (Ven) Peru 801-912, 804 women travelers 910-11 shopping 657-8 1015-17, 1016 accommodations work 911 sights 638-43 801, 906 Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 715-17 photography 1051 tourist information 659 activities 907 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno phone cards 1053 tours 647-8 arts 904-5 (Ecu) 717-18 Pica (Chi) 471 travel to/from 659 border crossings 802, Puerto Colombia (Ven) Pichilemu (Chi) 476-7 travel within 660 828, 842, 877, 878, 985-7 894, 899, 911 Pichincha (Arg) 84 Puerto Iguazú (Arg) Pilar (Par) 784 98-100, 99 business hours 907 R Pinamar (Arg) 128-9 Puerto López (Ecu) consulates 907-8 rabies 1066 Pinochet, Augusto 530 699-701 costs 802, 907, 908 rafting 47-8 Pirenópolis (Bra) 342 Puerto Madryn (Arg) culture 902-3 Arequipa (Per) 832 157-9, 158 currency 802 Piriápolis (Uru) 948-9 Puerto Maldonado (Per) Cajón del Maipo disabilities, travelers Piribebuy (Par) 778 (Chi) 441 892-4, 893 with 910 Pisac (Per) 855-7 Cuzco (Per) 847 Puerto Montt (Chi) economy 900 Pisco (Per) 820-2 499-501, 500-1 Futaleufú (Chi) 509 electricity 907 Pisco Elqui (Chi) 456-7 Puerto Nariño (Col) 622-3 Mérida (Ven) 991 embassies 907-8 Piura (Per) 876-7 Puerto Natales (Chi) Pucón (Chi) 486 planning 20-1, 37-43 environment 905-6 519-22, 520 San Agustín (Col) 613 budgeting 18-19 exchange rates 802 Puerto Varas (Chi) San Gil (Col) 560 calendar of events 25-8 food 801, 802, 903-4 494-8, 496 Tena (Ecu) 690 countries 49-52 gay travelers 908 Puerto Velasco Ibarra Raleighvallen (Sur) 924 internet resources 19 highlights 804 (Ecu) 719 Rapa Nui (Chi) 526-8, 526 itineraries 29-35 history 900-2 Puerto Villamil (Ecu) 718 Recife (Bra) 368-71, 368 medical checklist 1064 holidays 909 Puerto Williams (Chi) 525 Recinto del Pensamiento indigenous peoples 903 packing 20, 42-3 Pukapukara (Per) 855 (Col) 599 internet access 908 South America basics Puno (Per) 838-43, 840 Recoleta (Arg) 63 18-19 internet resources 802 Punta Arenas (Chi) religion 1035, 1043-4, travel seasons 18, 25-8, itineraries 802 515-19, 516 see also individual 37-9 language 908 Punta del Diablo (Uru) countries Playa Blanca (Col) 583 954-5 Rémire-Montjoly (FG) 740-1 Playa Medina (Ven) 1000 Punta del Este (Uru) Reñaca (Chi) 449 Playa Querepare Map Pages 000 949-53, 950 Reserva de Producción (Ven) 1000 Faunística Cuyabeno Photo Pages 000 Punta Gallinas (Col) 574-5 Poconchile (Chi) 474 (Ecu) 687-8 1095 Reserva Ecológica Río Gallegos (Arg) 168 Salto Ángel (Angel Falls; accommodations 432-4 Costanera Sur (Arg) 59 Río Liucura Valley Ven) 17, 1008, 17 activities 429 Reserva Ecológica Vargem (Chi) 489 Salvador (Bra) courses 429 Grande (Bra) 342 Río Puelo Valley (Chi) 495 352-60, 354 drinking 436 Reserva Faunística Riobamba (Ecu) 674-6, Salvaterra (Bra) 393 entertainment 436-7 Península Valdés (Arg) 674-5 Sama Biological Reserve 159-60 festivals 432 (Col) 573 (Bol) 236 INDEX Reserva Nacional Altos de food 434-6 Risaralda (Col) 600 Samaipata (Bol) 255-6 Lircay (Chi) 479 itineraries 425 road rules 1062 samba 409, 1045 Reserva Nacional Cerro medical services 437

-Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 294,  R Castillo (Chi) 513 robbery 1053, see nightlife 436 also safety 302-3  S Reserva Nacional safety 437 rock climbing, see climbing São Paulo (Bra) 318 Coyhaique (Chi) 511 shopping 437 Roraima (Ven) 1011-12 Same (Ecu) 696 Reserva Nacional Pacaya- sights 424-9 San Agustín (Col) 612-14, Samiria (Per) 900 Rosario (Arg) 79, 81-6, 82 tourist information 438 613 Reserva Nacional Pampa Rousseff, Dilma 404-5, 407 tours 432 del Tamarugal (Chi) 471 San Agustín de Valle Fértil ruins 22, see also travel to/from 438 Reserva Nacional Radal archaeological sites, (Arg) 140-1 travel within 439 Siete Tazas (Chi) 479 Inca sites San Andrés (Col) 587-8 Santiago del Estero (Arg) Reserva Nacional Salinas y Rupununi Savannas (Guy) San Antonio De Areco 109-10 Aguada Blanca 761-3 (Arg) 79 Santo Amaro (Bra) 386 (Per) 835 Rurrenabaque (Bol) San Antonio del Táchira Reserva Natural Cañón de 257-61, 260 (Ven) 997 Santo Ângelo (Bra) 335 Río Claro (Col) 595 Ruta 11 (Chi) 474 San Bernardino (Par) 778-9 Santuario de Iguaque Reserva Natural Laguna San Cipriano (Col) 606 (Col) 558 Blanca (Par) 787 San Cristóbal (Ven) 997 Santuário Ecológico de Pipa (Bra) 374 Reserva Provincial Esteros S San Gil (Col) 559-61 Sábato, Ernesto 178 del Iberá (Arg) 90-1 San Ignacio de Moxos São Luís (Bra) 384-6, 385 reserves, see national Sacred Valley (Per) 855-8 (Bol) 262 São Miguel do Gostoso parks & reserves, safety 21, 1052-3, see San Ignacio Miní (Arg) 97-8 (Bra) 380 individual reserves also individual cities San Juan (Arg) 139-40 São Paulo (Bra) 311-20, Resistencia (Arg) 93-5 altitude sickness 1067 San Juan de Las Galdonas 312, 313, 314 responsible travel, see also Bolivia 193, 276 (Ven) 1000 accommodations 313 volunteering Brazil 416 San Lorenzo (Bol) 236 drinking 316-18 Brazil 416 bus travel 1061 San Luis (Arg) 131-3 entertainment 318 Colombia 631 card fraud 1050 San Luis (Col) 587 food 315-16 Paraguay 798 Carnaval 356 San Martín de Amacayacu medical services 319 Peru 909 Chile 537 (Col) 622 safety 318-19 Rio Branco (Bra) 403 Colombia 631 San Martín De Los Andes sights 311-13 Río Caribe (Ven) 999 Ecuador 728 (Arg) 145-6 tourist information 319 Río Catatumbo (Ven) 991 French Guiana 748 San Pedro de Atacama travel to/from 319-20 Rio de Janeiro (Bra) 12, mine tours 247 (Chi) 462-6, 464 travel within 320 283-306, 286, 288-9, Paraguay 798 San Salvador de Jujuy Sapzurro (Col) 586-7 292, 296, 298, 12 Peru 909 (Arg) 120-2, 121 Saqsaywamán (Per) 854-5 accommodations 294-7 Venezuela 966, 1029 San Telmo (Arg) 59-63 Saquisilí (Ecu) 669 activities 291 Salar de Atacaman Santa Cruz (Bol) 251-5 Saraguro (Ecu) 684 Carnaval 293 (Chi) 467 Santa Cruz (Chile) 475 scams 416, 1052, see drinking 301-2 Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 13, Santa Elena de Uairén also safety entertainment 302-3 230, 13 (Ven) 1012-14, 1013 scuba diving, see diving festivals 293-4 Salento (Col) 601-2 Santa Fe (Arg) 86-8, 87 Semana Santa 25-8 food 299-301 Salinas (Ecu) 673-4 Santa Fe de Antioquia (Col) Senderosa Luminoso medical services 304 salt flats 595-6 (Shining Path) 867, safety 304 Reserva Faunística Santa María de la Fe 900, 902 shopping 303-4 Península Valdés (Arg) (Par) 783 Sierra de las Ánima sights 283-91 159-60 Santa Marta (Col) (Uru) 949 sports 303 Salar de Atacaman 565-8, 566 Sierra de la Ventana (Arg) (Chi) 467 tourist information Santa Mission (Guy) 759 130-1 304-5 Salar de Uyuni (Bol) 13, Santa Teresa (Bra) 286-90 Sigchos (Ecu) 669 tours 291-3 230, 13 Santarém (Bra) 394-5 Sígsig (Ecu) 683 travel to/from 304, 305 Salta (Arg) 116-20, 118, 119 Santay Island (Ecu) 706 Siles Zuazo, Hernán 268 travel within 305-6 Salto (Uru) 946-7 Santiago (Chi) 424-39, Sillustani (Per) 843 426-7, 430-1 Silvia (Col) 612 1096 Sipán (Per) 876 Puerto Baquerizo Tarija (Bol) 234-6 Túcume (Per) 876 Sipe Sipe (Bol) 241 Moreno (Ecu) 717 Teleférico Warairarepano (Col) 555 skiing 38, 48 Punta del Este (Uru) 950 (Ven) 983 Tupiza (Bol) 231-4 Las Leñas (Arg) 142 Villa Gesell (Arg) 127 telephone services 728-9, Turbo (Col) 584-5 Nevados de Chillán Suriname 913-28, 915 1053, see also typhoid 1066 individual countries (Chi) 479 accommodations

INDEX INDEX Parque Nacional Nahuel 913, 926 Temuco (Chi) 481-4 Huapi (Arg) 152 activities 926 Tena (Ecu) 689-92 U Uribe, Álvaro 626 Parque Nacional books 926 Termas de Papallacta Puyehue (Chi) 494 (Ecu) 661 Urubamba (Per) 857 ,S-U border crossings 914  Santiago region 923, 924 theft 1053, see also safety Uruguay 929-61, 931 Chi) 440 business hours 926 Tierra del Fuego (Arg) accommodations)  Volcán Osorno (Chi) 498 climate 913 169-74, 170, 171 929, 959 slave trade 1039 consulates 926 Tierra del Fuego (Chi) activities 959 524-5 snorkeling, see diving costs 914, 926, 927 arts 957-8 Tierradentro (Col) 615-16 snowboarding 48, see also culture 925-6 border crossings 930, skiing Tigre 79 939, 955 currency 914 soccer Tilcara 122-3 business hours 960 economy 925 Argentina 180 time zones 1054 climate 929 electricity 926 Bolivia 204, 271 tipping 21 consulates 959 embassies 926 Brazil 303, 311, 410-11 Tiradentes (Bra) 325-6 costs 930, 959 environment 926 Chile 437, 533 Titicaca Islands (Per) culture 957-8 exchange rates 914 Colombia 552, 607, 628 843-4 currency 930 food 914 Paraguay 795 Tiwanaku (Bol) 207-8 disabilities, travelers highlights 915 Peru 904, 957 toilets 1054, see also with 960 history 925 individual countries Uruguay 933 electricity 959 holidays 927 Tomatitas (Bol) 236 Venezuela 1024 embassies 959 internet access 927 Tonchigüe (Ecu) 696 Sorata (Bol) 219-20 environment 958 internet resources 914 Torres del Paine (Chi) 15, Soure (Bra) 393-4 exchange rates 930 itineraries 914 522-4, 523, 15 Southern Altiplano (Bol) food 929, 930, 958 money 927 tourist information 1054, 220-36 gay travelers 959 opening hours 926 see also individual Spanish language 1074-8 highlights 931 population 925-6 cities, individual St Georges (FG) 740 countries history 956-7 public holidays 927 St Laurent du Maroni (FG) tours 1053, see also jungle holidays 960 religion 925-6 743-6, 744 tours individual cities, internet access 959 Súa (Ecu) 696 telephone services 927 individual countries, internet resources 930 travel to/from 927-8 Sucre (Bol) 241-6, 242 train travel 1062-3 legal matters 959 travel within 928 Suesca (Col) 554 to/from Bolivia 279 lesbian travelers 959 vacations 927 surfing 38, 48 to/from Peru 911 money 959-60 visas 927 Arica (Chi) 471-2 within Argentina 187 opening hours 960 weather 913 Canoa (Ecu) 696 within Bolivia 280 politics 956 women travelers 927 Huanchaco (Per) 873 within Brazil 421 population 957 Suriname River (Sur) Ilha de Santa Catarina within Chile 539 public holidays 960 922-3 (Bra) 330 within Ecuador 676, 732 religion 957 Iquique (Chi) 467 within Peru 912 sports 957 Isla de Margarita (Ven) T Trancoso (Bra) 366-7 telephone services 960 1003-4 Tacna (Per) 827-9 Transchaco Rally 791 tourist information 960 Itacaré (Bra) 362 Tacuarembó (Uru) 947-8 transportation 18, 19, travel to/from 960-1 La Paloma (Uru) 954 Tafí del Valle (Arg) 111-13 1057-63 travel within 961 La Pedrera (Uru) 954 Taganga (Col) 568-70 traveler’s checks 1051 vacations 960 Lima (Per) 810 Talca (Chi) 477-8 trekking, see hiking visas 960 Máncora (Per) 878 Tambomachay (Per) 855 Trelew (Arg) 160-1 weather 929 Mar del Plata (Arg) 125 tango 179, 958, 1044-5 Trésor Nature Reserve women travelers 960 Montañita (Ecu) 701-2 classes 65, 103, 936 (FG) 741 Uruyén (Ven) 1010 Pichilemu (Chi) 476 festivals 27-8 Trinidad (Bol) 262-4 Ushuaia (Arg) 169-74, performances 74 Trinidad (Par) 783 172-3 Tarabuco (Bol) 246 Trujillo (Per) 869-72, 870 Uspallata (Arg) 138-9 tubing 662 Map Pages 000 Tarapaya (Bol) 251 Uyuni (Bol) 225-30, 227 Tucumán (Arg) 110-11 Photo Pages 000 Tarapoto (Per) 890-2 1097 V population 1021-2 (Chi) 486 Parque Nacional Madidi vacations, see individual postal services 1029 volunteering 1055, see also (Bol) 261 countries public holidays 1029 individual countries Parque Nacional Manu vaccinations 1065 religion 1022 (Per) 894-5 Valdivia (Chi) 490-3, 491 safety 966, 1029 Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces (Chi) 457 Valle Chacabuco (Chi) 512 sports 1024 W walking, see hiking Peru 905 INDEX Valle de Cocora (Col) telephone services 1029 War of the Pacific 267 Puerto Ayora (Ecu) 715 602-3 toilets 1030 water 1068 Reserva de Producción Valle de la Luna (Chi) 467 tourist information 1030 waterfalls Faunística Cuyabeno Valle de Lunarejo (Uru) 948  V-Z tours 1032 (Ecu) 687 Valle de Maipo (Chi) Iguazú Falls (Arg) 100-1  travel to/from 1030 Reserva Faunística 439-41 Iguazú Falls (Bra) 336 travel within 1030-2 Península Valdés Valle del Elqui (Chi) 454-7 Kaieteur Falls (Guy) 759 vacations 1029 (Bol) 159 Salto Ángel (Angel Falls; Valle Sagrado (Per) 855-8 Reserva Nacional visas 966, 1030 Ven) 17, 1008, 17 Valles Calchaquíes (Arg) 116 Pacaya-Samiria weather 962 Salto del Monday (Par) Valparaíso (Chi) 441-8, 442 (Per) 900 women travelers 1030 786 Venezuela 962-1032, women travelers 1055-6, 964 Vicuña (Chi) 454-6 Saltos del Petrohué accommodations 962, see also individual Vilcabamba (Ecu) 685-7 (Chi) 498 1025-6 countries Villa Carlos Paz (Arg) 107 weather 18, 25-8, see arts 1022-3 World’s Most Dangerous Villa de Leyva (Col) also individual countries books 1026 Road (Bol) 197, 23 555-8, 556 websites, see internet border crossings 963, work 1056, see also Villa General Belgrano resources 997, 1015, 1030 individual countries (Arg) 107 whitewater rafting, see business hours 1028-9 Villa Gesell (Arg) 127-8 rafting climate 962 Villa La Angostura (Arg) wildlife-watching 24, 45-6 X consulates 1026-7 146-7 Ancud (Chi) 503 Xapuri (Bra) 403-4 costs 963, 1025, 1027 Villa O’Higgins (Chi) 514-15 Bahía Negra (Par) 788 culture 1021-2 Villarrica (Chi) 485-6 Cabo Polonio (Uru) 953 currency 963 Villazón (Bol) 233 Capurganá (Col) 585 Y Yanahuara (Per) 834 electricity 1026 Viña del Mar (Chi) 448-9 Floresta Nacional (FLONA) Do Tapajós Yanque (Per) 837 embassies 1026-7 visas 19, 1054-5, see (Bra) 395 environment 1024-5 also passports, individ- Yapeyú (Arg) 91 exchange rates 963 ual countries Fortín Toledo (Par) 791 yellow fever 1066 food 962, 963, 1023-4 volcanoes Galápagos Islands (Ecu) Yungas, the (Bol) 215-20 712-13 gay travelers 1027 Volcán Chaitén (Chi) Islas Ballestas (Per) 821 health 1027 507, 509 Laguna Capitán highlights 964 Volcán Chimborazo (Ecu) Z (Par) 791 Zamora (Ecu) 685 history 1018-21 676-7 Los Llanos (Ven) 996 Zapallar (Chi) 449-50 holidays 1029 Volcán Cotacachi (Ecu) 666 Manaus (Bra) 397 Zika virus 415 internet access 1027 Orinoco Delta (Ven) 1007 Zipaquirá (Col) 554 itineraries 963 Volcán Cotopaxi (Ecu) 667 Pantanal, the (Bra) ziplining language 1027 Volcán de Lodo El 345-6 Coroico (Bol) 217 legal matters 1027 Totumo (Col) 583 Parque Nacional Mérida (Ven) 990 lesbian travelers 1027 Volcán Lanín (Arg) 145 Amacayacu (Col) 622 money 1028 Mindo (Ecu) 662 Volcán Osorno (Chi) 498 Parque Nacional Iguazú national parks 1025 (Arg) 100-1 Rurrenabaque (Bol) 257 Volcán Puyehue Zumbahua (Ecu) 669 opening hours 1028-9 (Chi) 494 Parque Nacional Machalilla (Ecu) 701 politics 1018 Volcán Villarrica 1098 NOTES 1099 NOTES 1100 NOTES 1101

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway/Subte station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lucas Vidgen Argentina (Northeast Argentina, Northwest Argentina, Atlantic Coast, Central Argentina. The Lake District) Lucas first visited Argentina in 2001 and was cap- tivated by the country’s wide open spaces and cosmopolitan cities. The huge amount of quality beef and wine didn’t go unnoticed, either. Lucas has contrib- uted to a variety of Latin American Lonely Planet titles, including various edi- tions of the Argentina and South America books. He currently divides his time between his hometown of Melbourne, Australia, and his adopted mountain home in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. Alex Egerton Colombia A journalist by trade, Alex has worked in Latin America for more than a decade, regularly wandering the back roads from Mexico to Argentina. He is currently based in southern Colombia where he travels extensively and writes about the country for a variety of media. When not on the road researching guide- books, you’ll find him hiking around the remote landscapes of the upper Amazon, Chocó and southern mountains or working on his tejo technique closer to home.

Brian Kluepfel Bolivia Brian lived in La Paz at the cusp of the 21st century, working for the late, great Bolivian Times. He’s since returned to interview musicians for a proposed book, The Charango Road, and contributed cultural materials to Lonely Planet’s 2006 Bolivia guide. His favorite tasks this time were being compelled to watch gorgeous birds in the Amazon, being force-fed delicious sonsos against his will, walking down the Prado at rush hour and running off the side of a mountain in La Paz (with a paraglider attached).

Tom Masters Venezuela Tom has traveled widely in Venezuela since first visiting as a backpack- er and was one of the authors on the last Lonely Planet Venezuela guide in 2010. Returning for South America on a shoestring to update the Venezuela content, Tom found the country as friendly, fun and staggeringly beautiful as ever, despite its poor safety record and myriad economic problems. Tom lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.

Carolyn McCarthy Argentina (Esqual, Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego), Chile Author Carolyn McCarthy has spent over a decade exploring Patagonia, which amounts to many rounds of maté, cracked windshields and altered plans. She specializes in Latin America and the US West, and has contributed to more than 30 titles for Lonely Planet, including Chile, Panama, Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Argentina, Peru, Col- orado, The Southwest and US national parks guides. She has written for Outside, BBC Magazine, National Geographic and others. Follow her travels on Instagram @masmerquen and Twitter @RoamingMcC.

Kevin Raub Brazil (Rio de Janeiro, The Southeast, The South, The Central West) Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil, where he has now traversed 21 of 26 Brazilian states in pursuit of caipirinha bliss. He was also LP’s man on the ground for the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil. This is Kevin’s 36th Lonely Planet guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad). Read more about Kevin at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/kraub Paul Smith Paraguay Paraguay is South America’s forgotten corner, and after 12 years living here, working as a biologist/travel writer, Paul has a good case for claiming that he knows the ins and outs of the country better than most. Paul has been work- ing for Lonely Planet since 2006, working on numerous guidebooks, especially in South America, a region that he is fascinated by. He lives in Encarnación with his wife, Carol, and son, Shawn, Paraguay’s future Lionel Messi.

Phillip Tang Peru A degree in Latin America studies brought Phillip Tang to these shores, and over a decade later he still finds himself feeling breathless (only slightly literally) pondering a canyon in Colca or the ocean in Miraflores. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan and Mexico, and on Peru elsewhere. Find his Peru Insta-photos from this visit through philliptang.co.uk.

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Coordinating Author, Ecuador, Plan, Understand, Survival Guide After Regis’ first journey to the Andes in 1999, he returned home, sold all his belongings and set off on a classic journey across South America. Since then, he’s returned numerous times, traveling dodgy roads by truck, horse and bicycle; scaling Andean peaks (small ones) and flailing away at Spanish and Portuguese. On his most recent trip he enjoyed biking, kayaking and boating around the Galápagos; he made friends with local storytellers on enchanting Floreana; and he developed a newfound admiration for the tropically infused city of Guayaquil. Regis is also the coordinating author of Lonely Planet’s Ecuador and Brazil guidebooks, and he has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Sandra Bao Argentina (Buenos Aires) Sandra is a Chinese-American who was born in Argen- tina and lived there until she was nine. She’s traveled to around 60 countries and now lives in the USA’s gorgeous Pacific Northwest. She’s proud to be aporteña and regularly returns to Argentina to investigate what the wildly fluctuating peso is doing, as well as catch up on her steak-eating quota. Over the last 15 years Sandra has contributed to a few dozen Lonely Planet titles. Read more about Sandra at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/sandrabao Celeste Brash Guyana, French Guiana, Suriname Celeste Brash has written over 50 Lonely Plan- et guidebooks. Although she specializes in the South Pacific and Southeast Asia titles, these trail-blazing and utterly adventurous Guianas chapters have become some of her all-time favorites to research. When not on the road she’s in Portland, Oregon hiking, foraging, dancing and trying to write a book about her five years on a remote coral atoll. Find more about her writing at www.celestebrash.com.

Gregor Clark Brazil (The Northeast, The North), Uruguay Over the past 25 years, Gregor has traveled South America from tip to tail, developing a special fondness for Brazil and Uruguay while researching the last three editions of this book. Favorite memories from this trip include spotting wildlife and climbing mountains in Brazil with his two teenage daughters and herding cattle on horseback in Uruguay’s vast interior. He has contributed to two dozen other Lonely Planet titles, including Brazil, Argentina, France and Italy. He lives in Vermont (USA). Read more about Gregor at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregorclark OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 13th edition – Oct 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 118 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’