Colombia Contents (Chapter)
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Colombia Contents (Chapter) Edition 6th Edition, August 2012 Pages 12 PDF Coverage includes: Contents pages, On the Road, Top Experiences map, Our writters, Itineraries. Useful Links: Having trouble viewing your file? Head to Lonely Planet Troubleshooting. Need more assistance? Head to the Help and Support page. Want to find more chapters? Head back to the Lonely Planet Shop. Want to hear fellow travellers’ tips and experiences? Lonely Planet’s Thorntree Community is waiting for you! © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Colombia ... 2 Map .................................. 4 Welcome to 20 Top Experiences ....... 6 Colombia Need to Know ................. 16 SHOESTRING PHRASEBOOK If You Like... ..................... 18 • Big trips, Month By Month ............. 20 small budgets • MulticountryMulticouuntruntry Itineraries ........................ 23 16 Colombia Outdoors ....... 28 Need to ten called the Serengeti o Know Diverse Landscapes Language Currency » Spanish (+ English From the towering dune Regions at a Glance ....... 33 Colombia’s» Colombian equatorial peso in Sanposition Andrés & aՖ ords it Punta Gallinas to the a diversity(COP$) of landscapesProvidencia matched only) by few Colombia’s kaleidoscopic countries. A slight tinkering in altitude and landscape has few riv takes you from sun-toasted Caribbean sands to coՖ ee-strewn, emerald-green Outdoor Adven When to Go hilltops in the Zona Your Cafetera Daily Continue # Budget Providencia GO Jan-Sep Budget less than COP$ Cartagena # GO Nov-Feb 50,000 » Dorm bed COP$15,000-30,000 24 » Comida corriente Medellín # (set meal) COP$5000- Parque Nacional GO Dec-Mar CARIBBEAN Natural Tayrona 7000; self-catering in JANE SWEENEY/JAI/CORBIS © SWEENEY/JAI/CORBIS JANE SEA # Santa Marta •##÷ Bogotá supermarkets Jan-Feb •# Ciudad Perdida GO COSTA Cartagena •# É Midrange RICA É COP$ PANAMA É PLAN YOUR TRIP É VENEZUELA 50,000- •# •# Bucaramanga Barichara •# 175,000 Medellín•# San Gil É •# » Doubles in midrange Villa de Leyva Tropical mountain climate, mild summers, chilly winters •#Manizales hotel COP$80,000– Pereira•# •# #_BOGOTÁ Tropical climate, wet and dry seasons Armenia •# Tropical climate, rain year-round 130,000 ValledeCocora •# •# Tropical rainforest, wet and dry seasons » Mains in decent local Cali Desierto de la Tatacoa # Leticia Cold climate Mar-Nov ITINERARIES •# GO PACIFIC •# É restaurant COP$15,000- Popayán Tierradentro É OCEAN •# 25,000 # – San Agustín É High Season Shoulder Low Season Top End over (Dec-Feb) (Mar-Sep) (Oct-Nov) COP$ ECUADOR » Sunny skies » Bogotá, Medellín » Flash floods often É and warmish days and Cali suffer a wash out roads in the 175,000 É BRAZIL throughout the secondary rainy Andean region » Double room in a Andes season in April/May » Cartagena is top-end hotel from PERU Río Yavarí COP$160,000 •# •# Leticia » Stay dry » Best whale- disproportionally wet everywhere but the watching is July in October » Multicourse meal with Amazon to October on the » A glimmer of hope wine from COP$40,000 Pacific coast Cali & One Month » San Andrés and in the Amazon: low » One-way flight to the The See-(Almost)-Everything Route Providencia are » Cartagena shines water levels mean Caribbean coast or COUNCOCOUNTRYTRRYY &CI& CICITYTY Southwest gorgeous, as usual through April, hard excellent hiking and Amazon COP$80,000- rains begin in May white-sand beaches 250,000 The beauty of Colombia’s diverse landscapes is that you can choose to fully im- Colombia PaciÀ c Coast merse yourself in just one (Caribbean beaches, wildlife-rich jungle, soaring Andean highlands) or you can go for the Full Monty! Hit the ground running in Bogotá, The original origin Colombia’s Gotham, and don’t miss the Museo del Oro, one of the continent’s most • Archaeology 333 Marine Life 333 fascinating museums, and the atmospheric colonial center, La Candelaria. From there head Salsa 33 Beaches 33 north to Villa de Leyva. Explore its cobbled streets and enjoy its colonial charm for a day or two, then visit San Gil for hiking and rafting, making time on the way for his- Comprehensive Architecture 33 Nature 33 toric Barichara. Pass through Bucaramanga to catch a long-haul bus to Santa Marta. • It’s worth moving quicker than normal up to this point in order to free up some time here to do the sweaty, À ve- to six-day trek to Ciudad Perdida or blissing-out for a few days in the beach-riddled Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, Colombia’s most popular Adventurous national park. Next stop, Cartagena – you’ll need a few days to fully indulge this exquisite • colonial city. Pre-Columbian Ruins Marine Life Less than 100km apart amid Get close to massive hump- stunning Andean panoram- back whales at Parque as sit Colombia’s two most Nacional Natural (PNN) important archaeological Ensenada de Utría or head sites. More than 500 large out at night to watch nest- statues carved out of volcan- ing sea turtles lay their eggs ic rock are scattered in the near El Valle. Divers can hills around San Agustín. At swim among hundreds of Tierradentro, archaeologists sharks at Islas Malpelo and have unearthed more than Gorgona. Looking for other travel resources? 100 underground tombs. Beaches Salsa Framed by jungle-covered PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 275 Learn about the big picture, so you COLOMBIA can make sense of what you see population per sq Colombia Today ............. 276 COLOMBIA US History ............................. 279 ≈ 32 people ive in the 1500s. Ciudad Perdi a, the Tayrona Life in Colombia .............. 289 aroun 700 AD, with hundreds of stone terraces The Muisca, one of the country’s larger indigen The Arts........................... 291 resent-day Boyacá and Cundinamarca, near Bog Colombia Today a Muisca word), and numbered 600,000 when the LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE The Natural World .......... 294 Spanish Conquest A Country on the Rise For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Colombia is named after Christopher Columbus, Colombia makes evangelists of all who visit it and few visito with anything but a positive impression. And while the glo a e advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas set foot on Colombian soil. One of Columbus’ com s utters, Colombia is powering ahead full throttle as foreign inv and tourists pour in. The economy has been growing steadily for chapters years, and Colombia’s À nance minister projected a further 5% lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine in 2012. While it’s undeniable that for many rural oor life ha 10,000 BC Some early arrivals create little stone M chips at the site of El to STAY IN TOUCH Abra in modern-day b Bogotá – the earliest live lonelyplanet.com/contact kdf AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-798-5 99625 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 797985 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter colombia-6-cover.indd 2 3/05/2012 1:39:23 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 36 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips San Andrés & Providencia p168 Caribbean Coast p115 Pacific Coast p249 Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander p79 Medellín & Zona Cafetera p182 Bogotá p38 Cali & Southwest Colombia p218 Amazon Basin p262 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 299 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Safe Travel ....................... 300 ( Tic Colom Directory A–Z ................. 303 cally at l have an o they’re allo country. Ai Transportation agents quite Transportation ............... 314 this, and no a one-way tic GETTING THERE already have Air et. Upon arri & AWAY however, har Language ........................ 322 Airports & Airlines tion o cials Colombia’s biggest inter- present you Entering the national airport is Bogotá’s The trick Country Aeropuerto Internacional refundable El Dorado (BOG; www.el- credit card Index ................................ 336 Most travelers will arrive nuevodorado.com), which fund upo n Colombia by plane, or will debut a slick renovated If arrivin verland from Ecuador, Ven- terminal by the end of 2014. of an u ela or Brazil. There are See p 70 . also numerous sailboats that Other major airports serv- the Map Legend .................... 343 avelers from Panama icing international Á ights: n Blas Islands. Aeropuerto Internaciona a valid pass- El Edén (AXM) In Armen six more (p 212 ). THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Kevin Raub, Alex Egerton, Mike Power Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favorite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required BOGOTÁ . .38 AROUND BOGOTÁ . 73 North of Bogotá .