Issue No. 165 Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 ORDER DELIVERY TO Getting Kolarac YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 around celebrates dining options [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 the city art gallery’s are rich BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 50th birthday and plentiful

Page 5 Page 10 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in , i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

US flights - - -

Savage cuts leave not NEWS ready for takeoff NEWS poor on the brink Despite official “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Belgrade mayor talk of direct US party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. says strict savings flights by 2015, experts say Air herald the Serbia has a way page 10 dawn of a new to go before it can era of financial obtain a license to fly to America, hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - responsibility - a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W but those on the and some doubt June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, receiving end are whether such

flights will ever be page 5 far from happy. profitable.

Ivana NIKOLIĆ Katarina MARKOVIĆ henever new conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the authorities fter two decades, Serbia After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party take power is back on the list of coun- E in the city, tries that the US Federal they start Aviation Administration “Wcutting in order to save,” says Jovan, a says can safely organise 70-year old pensioner as he leans on flights to US cities. AFriday • June 13 2008 his stick. “The aid that the city was giv- Following the FAA decision, Serbian ing to me, €40 as an additional pension, Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić said I was giving to my grandsons. I still give that Air Serbia, which is jointly owned them money, but far less,” he adds. by the government and Etihad, from the THIS ISSUE OF

Jovan is just one out of many poor United Arab Emirates, planned to open Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED retirees who has been left without fi- a route to Chicago in the second half of on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic nancial assistance from the city as a 2015. which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T consequence of newly adopted savings Although experts have greeted the measures. FAA approval of Serbia’s right to organ- ise flights to the US, they warn that a long Continued on page 3 Cuts have left pensioners without financial aid from the city. Photo by Branko Karapandža procedure and a series of conditions lies ahead for both Serbia and Air Serbia be- fore flights can take off. They believe that it is unrealistic to , a city in a city expect Air Serbia to open flights to the US as soon as next year, and some doubt It may be only a stone’s throw from the centre park. “And, because these people were Its strategic location near the conflu- whether such flights can be profitable. of different confessions, two different ence of the and the rivers The FAA put Serbia on the list of coun- of Belgrade, but this one time Austro-Hungarian churches were built here,” he added. made it an object of repeated wars be- tries in so-called category 1, meaning that town moves to a very different beat. Two centuries later, there is just one tween the two empires. it meets the necessary security condi- sign of the park’s curious role in history “But that is also why Zemun was at- tions to fly to the US, on June 27th. – a part of the wall that once surround- tractive to people. As a commercial bor- Serbia officially lost its place on catego- Ivana NIKOLIĆ “Back in the late 18th and early 19th ed the quarantine area. Nowadays, two der town, its inhabitants enjoyed vari- ry 1 in 2002, but flights between US and centuries, this park was a quarantine schools and a faculty building lie here, ous privileges,” Parun recalled. Serbia stopped much earlier, in the Nine- his is interesting: you area for people coming from the Ot- while the well-known Pinki sports cen- Like all merchants, those in Zemun ties, as a result of a UN embargo placed on have a Catholic church toman Empire to the Habsburg Mon- tre is close by. were cunning and shrewd, which gave the country during the Yugoslav wars. on one side, an Ortho- archy,” he noted, referring to the days rise to a saying: beware of the mer- “After many years, decades, we have ob- dox one on the other, when Zemun was the last town in the TOWN OF CANNY chants of Zemun. tained permission to fly to the US, and as and just 15 metres Austrian Empire, and Serbia was still MERCHANTS Today, the merchants are long gone early as second half of 2015 we’ll fly to Chi- “Tbetween them,” says Nikola Parun, a MA under the Ottomans. and the town has a new reputation - as cago and will fight to establish New York student of Political Sciences and a proud “They had to spend up to seven The suburb of Zemun, as we know it home to tough, macho men. flights as well,” Vučić said on June 27th. local who agreed to act a tourist guide for weeks here for hygiene checks, among today, grew out of a commercial town Belgrade Insight as we looked at the two others,” Parun explained, as we stood that sat on the border between the small churches in Zemun City Park. in the shadows of the big trees in the Turkish and Habsburg domains. Continued on page 9 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 3 SERBIA BELGRADE

Continued from page 1 Unions plan protests Belgrade sightseers over Labour Law PRESS REVIEW get new scooter tours VEČERNJE NOVOSTI, July 10th Serbian The Tourist Organisation of The United Trade Unions PARLIAMENT READIES TO Nezavisnost and the Alliance of CHANGE CONSTITUTION Belgrade has launched a new Serbian Independent Trade Un- sightseeing tour in which ions on July 9th said they were mayor accused Parliament will soon form a work- visitors can explore the capital ing group that is expected to prepare Savage cuts leave on scooters. The four-hour planning to organise protest Serbia in brief amendments to the constitution, the rallies unless an agreement can tour commences each day at daily has learned. Some of the changes in brief Belgrade 1pm from in front of the Hotel be reached on amendments to that deputies expect are to the articles of copying Yugoslavia and is led by a guide the Labour Law. They claim the on the judiciary, human and minority who communicates with the proposed amendments to the rights, the electoral system, territorial organization, the status of the province group via headset. Those who Law are not in accordance with thesis of Vojvodina, and references to Kosovo. poor on the brink wish to drive a scooter must EU directives and will “destroy be 21 years old, or 18 years all the rights of employees and BLIC, July 10th old for pillion passengers; are directed against the people PUTIN KEEPS IMPORT TAXES ON or the last two years, retirees on “There is no free for participants must bring a valid in order to enable employ- After the mayor of SERBIAN GOODS pensions worth less than €200 retirees; you [the Progressives] abolished driving licence. Reservations ers to reap as high a profit as per month, which is the aver- the 13th pension for the socially threat- and tickets are available from possible”. The government’s Belgrade became Vladimir Putin, Russian President, has age in Serbia, had an additional ened. You are making savings on things the Tourist Organisation of proposal for the Law will be turned down a proposal of Serbian city pension, given in four in- that you shouldn’t,” he added after the Belgrade, Knez Mihailova 5. th Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić to F rd sent to parliament on July 15 stalments a year. Each was worth between city adopted revised budget on June 23 . the centre allow the import to Russia of Fiat vehi- and expects to be adopted by cles, sugar, wine and cigarettes without €10 and €50, depending on whether their While politicians argue over the fi- gets safe the end of the month. of the latest custom fees. pension was €150, €180 or €200. nancial condition of the city, those most drinking water after Retirees are not the only ones left feel- affected by the cuts say they will barely floods Serbia, Russia seal plagiarism row, INFORMER, July 10th ing short-changed. Financial assistance make ends meet. South Stream deal PROGRESSIVES TO TOPPLE has also been scrapped for the disabled, Milan Janković, from the Associa- Miroslav Čučković, the the Conference VOJVODINA GOVERNMENT for children without parents, for univer- tion of Students with Disabilities, says president of the flood-hit South Stream Serbia and Centar sity and high school students, as well as disabled students used to receive around Obrenovac municipality, for students with special needs. €150 a month from the city. announced on July 7th Gas from Russia signed the of Universities In an interview for Informer, Igor Mirović, deputy president of the ruling Serbian The cuts, announced at the end of “We spent that money on rides to that the tap water in the contract worth €2.1 billion to of Serbia Progressive Party, stated that his party April, come as part of savings made in a schools, as public transport in Belgrade is entire municipality, with the construct the Serbian section of expects to gain the support of League revised budget that the city adopted after not suitable for us,” he said. “We also used exception of the Braće Jugović the South Stream gas pipe- of Social Democrats of Vojvodina, the declared it had the Serbian Progressive Party-led coali- it to pay for personal assistants to help us neighbourhood, is now safe for th New Democratic Party and the Alliance line on July 8 . The deal was tion took over. in our everyday activities,” he added. drinking. Obrenovac was one of signed just after Serbian Prime of Vojvodina Hungarians to overthrow no jurisdiction the Democratic Party-led authority in Apart from these cuts, the city is slash- “Students with impaired vision need the places worst affected by the Minister Aleksandar Vučić met the province. He believes the provincial ing PR and consultancy services and special computers and books to study, heavy floods in mid-May. Russian President Vladimir Putin to assess government might fall in September. reducing the number of public transport which is also expensive,” he noted. in Moscow. The construction of vehicles by one-third. Janković said his and his friends’ social Parking Service the 422-kilometre section of the earlier claims th Mayor Siniša Mali is the latest official facing queries about his PhD. Photo by Beta BLIC, July 9 While the newly appointed mayor, lives will also be affected: “We are very an- to introduce free pipeline should provide jobs for of plagiarism GOVERNMENT PRESENTS Siniša Mali, has come in for harsh criti- gry, but there is nothing we can do.” insurance several thousand workers from copied parts of the thesis were not just ber university to re-examine a PhD. FLOODS REPORT cism, he has defended the cuts, saying Nevertheless, some of those affected Serbia. The first gas deliveries concerning the minor bits, but also crucial conclusions He added that Megatrend, where the capital might even record a surplus as say the new savings may be a necessity. City-owned company Parking would go through Serbia by the that Mali presented as his own. Stefanović obtained his title, has al- The floods that hit Serbia in mid-May a result. “I was spending my €40 aid mostly on Service is planning to introduce killed a total of 57 people, including New mothers have also seen financial assistance slashed. Photo by Branko Karapandža end of 2016. Interior Minister. BIRN could not reach Mali to com- ready decided to take all necessary “In 2014, Belgrade will not take any fur- food, and was also saving to buy presents free insurance for drivers who 23 who drowned, while 31,879 people pay to leave their vehicles in ment the claims about his PhD thesis steps and set up an independent expert were evacuated, it was said in parlia- ther loans and all expenditures will be for my grandchildren, but I’m not angry Decision on EU aid by by the time of publication. committee to check Stefanović’s thesis. ment. Presenting the government’s financed from the city’s revenues,” Mali unemployed, they will now receive only PARTIES TRADE FIGURE [about the cuts],” Mizdrag Mićo, a pen- its garages, lots and street end of year Gordana ANDRIĆ The author of the analysis urged Mali, Slobodan Pajović, rector of Meg- report on the flooding, Aleksandar said on June 23rd. about half that amount. sioner, said, as he joined in a passionate spaces. The insurance, due and other officials accused of plagiaris- atrend University, announced on July Nikolić, from the interior ministry, told “I can do nothing with €100, and I still The revised budget for 2014, which discussion over a chessboard in Kale- to be introduced by the end th st of the year, will cover minor Michael Davenport, head of he Serbian website ing their theses to resign, and called on 9 that the committee would be com- a parliamentary committee that a total LESS FOR have to buy clothes, food, baby equip- became effective on July 1 , is based on megdan Park. th of 2,260 buildings were flooded in damage such as scratches and the EU Delegation to Serbia, Peščanik on July 9 pub- Belgrade University to investigate pla- piled by the experts that are not from NEW MOTHERS ment,” Baletić says. a projected income for the city of 78.1 bil- the towns of Obrenovac, Paraćin and broken windows and mirrors if told Tanjug news agency on lished a study alleging giarism in their midst. Megatrend. “My husband and I will have to rely on lion dinars [€676 million], with a deficit MORE AGENCIES ABOLISHED Svilajnac. sustained while cars are parked July 10th that there are plans that over 30 per cent of “Belgrade University now must Stefanović has denied the claims. With a negative population growth of - our parents as we can’t afford all these projected at 8.5 billion [€73.5 million]. prove it is different from Megatrend,” in Parking Service spaces. to stump of an aid package for the thesis of the Mayor of Both Stefanović and Mali belong to the POLITIKA, July 9th 4.8 per cent per year and a birth-rate well things alone,” she concludes. Members of the Serbian Progressive The city, meanwhile, has also abolished TBelgrade was lifted from other people’s the author wrote, referring to the pri- ruling Serbian Progressive Party. below replacement level, Serbia has one Dragana Soćanin, a president of the Party said in a press release that the city the Water Administration, the Office for Serbia worth €200 million, part work. vate college from which Interior Minis- In late June, Peščanik also analysed MYSTERY FIRM FOURTH IN RICH of the world’s fastest ageing populations. Parents Association in Belgrade, says the had to reduce financial assistance to moth- Youth, the Energy Administration, the Of- Warning over of which will be intended to Some 33 per cent of Siniša Mali’s uni- ter Nebojša Stefanović graduated, and the thesis of Aleksandar Šapić, presi- COMPANIES LIST Each year, approximately 30,000 in- cuts are just one of the problems that ers because the former ruling Democratic fice of Patient Protection, the City Agency swimming in Sava and address the damage caused by versity thesis was copied from other who was earlier accused of plagiarism. dent of the municipality of New Bel- habitants vanish – a figure equivalent to pregnant working women face. Party had “robbed” the capital by taking for European Integration and Cooperation Danube rivers the recent devastating floods. The Serbian Business Registry report people’s work, it said, and the content The Conference of Universities of grade and found that parts of his thesis an average-sized town. That is why some “It is not unusual for women to be fired out loans worth more than €1.1 billion. with Civil Society, Jugokoncert, an institu- The EU expects Serbia also to on the biggest and most successful of numerous pages was copied almost Serbia, comprised of both state and pri- were also copied from other people’s companies in Serbia in 2013 says say politicians urging young couples to once they tell their employers they are The Democratic Party denies the tion for music and performing arts, and the The Institute for Public Health get funds from the EU Solidar- completely, it added. vate universities, on July 9th declared work. Šapić is a member of the opposi- the fourth on the list is a mysterious start families need to think again. pregnant. €500 was not enough, but at claim. “According to the 2013 balance BELEF centre, an institution producing and has warned Belgraders not ity Fund, which it is entitled to Mali obtained his PhD title at Bel- it had no jurisdiction to review claims tion Democrats. company, TS-Imperial Clearing House, “It is stupid for politicians to encourage least it was helpful,” Soćanin told BIRN. sheets, Belgrade has a surplus of 3.9 bil- promoting non-institutional cultural pro- to swim in the Danube and request as if it were a member grade University’s Faculty of Organisa- about Stefanović’s diploma. According to a BIRN source, the whose basic capital in diamonds and people to have babies, and then suddenly She also complaints about a lack of trans- lion dinars [€33.7 million], which means grammes. Sava rivers as the water is of the EU. Serbia should file its tional Sciences in June 2013. Around 3,000 professors, lectur- education ministry is pushing for legal gold is 184 billion dinars [€1.5 billion]. cut financial aid to young mothers,” says Ka- parency. “We don’t know why the city au- that stories about the bankruptcy of the Subsidies for Children’s Hangouts, a contaminated with potentially The company has no employees or request by early August, after His PhD thesis, entitled “Value crea- ers, and PhD students in Serbia earlier changes to enable the verification of of- tarina Baletić, a 20-year-old mother-to-be. thorities decided to stop helping the most capital are false,” Balša Božović, from the place for children without parents, were harmful bacteria. However, which the EU will decide on it known income. The companies with the tion through the process of restruc- signed an online petition demanding ficials’ diplomas. largest capital are the public companies Baletić is angry that the revised budget endangered people, as we haven’t seen the Democratic Party, said. also cut. As a result, this centre will have regular analysis of the water by the end of the year, he noted. turing and privatisation - theoretical an investigation of claims that he cop- The ministry’s Centre for Checking Serbian Roads, Electric Power Industry for the city has also cut financial assis- analysis on which they based their deci- Božović said inflicting cuts on the most to rely mostly on individuals and on do- in lake has The government’s own damage concepts and Serbian experience”, is ied his doctoral thesis. Diplomas will be given powers to verify of Serbia and . tance for mothers. Instead of €250 for sion,” she noted. “They could have cut oth- vulnerable categories of citizens was a nations from international organisations shown that swimming there assessment report puts the to- publicly available. Vladimir Bumbaširević, rector of Bel- all new state officials’ diplomas under employed mothers and €500 for those er things, not aid for families,” she added. bad idea. and private companies. is safe. tal cost of repairing the damage The unnamed author of Peščanik, grade University, said that the Confer- the planned legislative changes, a min- BIRN has not verified the reports and at about €1.5 billion. who analysed the work, wrote that the ence could only recommend to a mem- istry source earlier told BIRN. cannot vouch for their accuracy.

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www.hotelputnik.rs 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Oh, komšija! Stepping out at night Getting Column Ćao, ljudi! And welcome to beautiful, Belgrade has won The city is also known for having a large grade is the price: they are far cheaper here number of clubs that work until the early than in most cities of an equivalent size. beautiful Bel- growing attention hours of the morning, giving people a wide The national beverage is rakija, which is a variety of places to check out, plus the op- strong, schnapps-like spirit that usually has an around the city grade. Izvolite. as one of Europe’s tion of leaving one club and visiting another, alcohol content of over 40 per cent, especially whatever the hour. when it’s one of the homemade varieties. The top cities for Some of the main attractions in summer drink can be made from a variety of fruits, usu- are the many clubs and bars located directly ally grapes, plums, apricots or quince. Vinjak, a Although the nightlife, and the on the Sava and Danube riverbanks, which low-cost variety of cognac, is also popular. locals call splavovi. Dress codes are virtually non-existent in easiest and most city well deserves Generally speaking, most bars and cafés Belgrade clubs and bars. Reservations can be work until midnight on weekdays and until made just about everywhere, but are usually comfortable ways 1 or 2 am at weekends. Most clubs work at unnecessary owing to the sheer amount of to get around the its new status. weekends only - although the “weekend” in nightspots available. Belgrade usually starts on Thursday. When making reservations in the more city are either There are exceptions to every rule, of up-scale and expensive clubs, guests normal- course, and it shouldn’t be hard to find an ly have to book for more than four people in to walk or take a erbia’s capital is an attractive underground bar or hotel bar at least where the party and are obliged to purchase at least Gergana MARKOVA place for night owls because it is you can have a drink no matter what time of one bottle of alcohol. taxi, Belgrade also relatively cheap in terms of ac- the day or night, or whatever day of the week. Lines to get into clubs are usually only t has been a month since commodation and in terms of the Tips are not mandatory in bars, but most seen in front of a handful of the most exclu- offers extensive I first came to this mostly amount of money you need to people round up the tab and leave some ex- sive and pricey clubs. sunny, mosquito-infested spendS to have a good time. Entrance to most tra money for the waiting staff if they feel that public transport city, situated on what seems bars and clubs is free and drink prices are the service was adequate. Alcohol may not Find more info on Belgrade’s nightlife with a de- to be a thousand hills. This Iis one of those cities that you significantly lower than in most European be served to minors. tailed listing of clubs, bars and cafes in Belgrade options, from Club Peron lies is in the nightlife hub of . Photo courtesy of Peron don’t just think of as a “place”. It capitals. The major draw concerning drinks in Bel- Insight City Guide. has too much of its own character to car for that. This Belgradian character, as rentals. we’ll call it, is not just confusing, Most popular KC Grad, Brace Krsmanovic 4, +381 (0) 8222 000, MUSIC: live pop and folk CAFES AND BARS Blaznavac, Knjeginje Ljubice 18, it’s downright bipolar. Belgrade places to go out 11 3282 571, MUSIC: indie, electro music +381 (0) 11 3285 857 can be quiet and calm one mo- Splav River, Brodarska 1, +381 (0) 64 Brankow Bar, Crnogorska 12, +381 (0) Moment, Topolska 18, Centrala, Simina 6, ment and lose its temper the next, 8002 883, MUSIC: live bands, Serbian just as quickly as any Serb that 69 8300 777, MUSIC: disco, funk, pop +381 (0) 11 3443 235 +381 (0) 11 3346 109 oving around a city CLUBS inhabits it. pop and folk and jazz Ceger, Skerlićeva 20, Drinka, Kosovska 33, that lies on two rivers You first discover this peculiar Splav Jimmys, Uše 1a, +381 (0) 69 +381 (0) 11 4065 794 +381 (0) 11 3037 794 Splav Lasta, Hercegovacka, +381 (0) 69 Danguba, Ćirila i Metodija 2, +381 (0) 64 and has only a few quality when you end up soak- 2000 300, MUSIC: live music, pop and , Dobracina 5, 1100 777, MUSIC: disco, house 3507 388, MUSIC: live rock music Vesele domacice, Njegoseva 7, Rakia bar bridges can some- ing wet, after what was a clear, folk +381 (0) 11 3286 119 Splav Play, Savski kej, +381 (0) 62 Klub 20/44, Savski kej, MUSIC: soul, +381 (0) 11 3640 626 times be chaotic. sunny sky only a few minutes ago Splav Freestyler: Savski kej, +381 (0) Irish pub, Kneza Milosa 16, 337766, MUSIC: house funk, house, industrial, disco, elektro, Mydan, Kozjacka 3-5, MThe public transport company has decides to show off its (extremely 62 8002 020, MUSIC: house, disco, +381 (0) 11 2683 748 OUR Bar, Beogradska 71, +381 (0) 69 punk +381 (0) 11 3692 974 an extensive network of buses, impressive) capacities for rain or hiphop, R’n’B even hail. 1212 646, MUSIC: jazz, rock, pop Kneza Milosa 77, +381 (0) 11 Red bar, Skadarska 17, Crveni petao, Cara Lazara 16, Splav Sindikat, Brodarska, +381 (0) 64 Lava Bar, and trollies that connects all parts of Hot Mess, Brodarska, +381 (0) 63 1505 +381 (0) 63 2873 59 +381 (0) 11 2620 050 You realise it also when 8737 570, MUSIC: domestic and foreign 3510 525, +381 (0) 62 8736 726, MUSIC: the city with the center. Most streets in you look around you and see 505, MUSIC: house, electro Pržionica, Dobracina 59b Manhattan, pop live performances the city center have -only lanes, so Austro-Hungarian Zemun on one Mladost, Karađorđeva 44, +381 (0) 64 Amelie, Toplicin venac 4, Palmoticeva 27 Splav Sound, Brodarska, +381 (0) 63 Plastic Light, Brodarska, +381 (0) 64 at rush hour this can be faster than us- side, Communist-looking New 0133 300, MUSIC: electro +381 (0) 62 8001 570 Dvoristance, 8071 853, MUSIC: electronic music, 6403 956, MUSIC: hiphop, r’n’b ing a car. Belgrade on the other, Stari Grad Ludost, Karađorđeva 44, +381 (0) 69 Brace Krsmanovic 14, dance, house Povetarac, Brodarska, +381 (0) 65 4755 Basta, Karađorđeva 43, Male Stepenice If you choose the bus, the maximum right across from them, and finish 8300 770, MUSIC: electro +381 (0) 65 632 460 off with a stare at Ada: an artificial Cinema, Gracanicka 18, +381 (0) 62 115, MUSIC: live rock and pop 1a, +381 (0) 62 8711 475 amount of time you can expect to wait lake transformed into what for one is about 30 minutes. If you get seems like a seaside resort in the impatient, you can check how many middle of the city. stops away the bus you are waiting for You also see it as you look at DIRECTORY is, by dialing: *011* and the number of the Kalemegdan statue, holding the bus stop #. a sword in one hand and a dove Public transport connects all parts of the city with the centre. Photo by David Holt/Flickr Belgrade Tourist 24-HOUR HEALTH SERVICES Sveti Sava, Nemanjina 2, TRAVEL WIRING MONEY You should buy tickets ahead of time of peace in the other. Even when Organisation Info Centers +381 (11) 2643-170 Western Union, +381 (11) 3334 999, it comes to rakija, the national Emergency Medical Centre, Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 www.transfernovca.rs at any of the 800 kiosks or conveni- quently use. The multi-trip tickets cost Additionally, the same rates apply to Zemun, Glavna 34, +381 (11) 3076-077 732, [email protected] tipple, Serbs are incapable of Knez Mihailova 6, +381 (11) 2635 622, Pasterova 2, +381 (11) 3618-444 Bogdan Vujošević, Goce Delceva 30, ence stores around town. The “BusPlus” RSD 100. all taxi companies, so there should be bginfo.knezmihailova@tob. co.rs Children’s Hospital, Tirsova 10, +381 Belgrade Port, +381 (11) 3288 246, VOIP OPERATORS choosing just one flavour but +381 (11) 2601-887, 3017-232 [email protected] EUnetPhone, www.eunet.rs/voip ticketing system offers several differ- Useful contacts The fine for passengers caught with- no difference in price between them. Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732, (11) 2060 600, www.udk.bg.ac.rs Belgrade Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 always offer you at least five dif- [email protected] Primax IX, Francuska 24, SezamPro Internet Telephone, LGBT www.sit.rs ent types of smart cards: personalised, out a ticket is RSD 1,000, if the penalty is The start-up fee is RSD 170 and the rate ferent types. Belgrade Port, +381 (11) 3288 246, bginfo. 24-HOUR DENTAL SERVICE +381 (11) 3234-273 GayEcho, Balkan gay lesbian news [email protected] portal, www.gayecho.com, gayecho@ monthly cards for residents, plastic and paid on the spot. per kilometer is RSD 65 for the first tariff Yes, I am well aware that this gmail.com HAIR SALONS PUBLIC TRANSPORT bipolarity is definitely the result Belgrade Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Stari Grad, Obilicev Venac 30, PRIVATE HOSPITALS/ Šobota, Đorđa Ognjanovica 37, +381 paper cards and multi-trip tickets. From midnight to 4:30 am, there are (Mon to Sat from 6 am to 10 pm). For the +381 (11) 2635-236, www. dzstarigrad.org Belgrade Public Transport Company of some kind of used-to-be-on- MEDICAL CENTERS TRAVELLERS WITH SPECIAL (11) 2513 982 and Zmaj Jovina 5, +381 (11) The price for one trip is RSD 72. You night buses. Most depart every half- second tariff (Mon to Sat from 10 pm to Police: 192 Vračar, Kneginje Zorke 15, +381 (11) 2636 295, www.sobota.rs +381 (11) 366 4040 the-border-between-two-empires NEEDS can buy tickets from the driver, but hour from midnight to 2:30 am from 6 am, Sundays and public holidays) the Fire Department: 193 3402-522, www.dzvracar.org.rs Bel Medic General Hospital, Youth with Disabilities of Serbia, Bob Salon, Dobracina 12, +381 (11) 2637 personality disorder (as any Serb Ambulance: 194 999, www.salonbob.com Koste Jovanovica 87, Terazije 23, +381 (11) 3248 347, www. the price is more than double, RSD 150 BusPlus Ticketing System their terminals in the city center (most rate per kilometer is RSD 85. will be glad to explain, multiple Information: 1985 24-HOUR PHARMACIES fmi.rs Panjkovic Academy, Njegoseva 21, Customer service Road assistance: 1987 +381 (11) 309-1000, www.belmedic.com Center for independent living of +381 (11) 3440 728, www.panjkovic.net for a single ride. Plastic cards cost RSD from Trg Republike). Night buses have There is also a taxi service at the air- times). +381 (11) 7155 155 Belgrade Communal Police: Prvi Maj, Kralja Milana 9, Jedro, Jurija Gagarina 14, PWDs Serbia, Milenka Vesnica 3, Cvrle Salon, Nusiceva 7, +381 (11) 6301 250 and last for three years, while the specific fares and tickets that you can port that offers rides at a fixed rate and But now is the time to admit I +381 (11) 7150 715, www.jedro.rs +381 (11) 3675 317, www.cilsrbija.org 166, www.cvrle-hairshop.com 0800-110-011 +381 (11) 3240-533 am not truly a foreigner. As every paper cards can be used for up to three TAXI buy in the bus. the price depends on the part of the city months and cost RSD 40. Lux Taxi: +381 (11) 3033 123 the customer is going to. On average it is Serb I ever met has told me, I am a These cards work like pre-paid Pink Taxi: 19803 USING A TAXI around RSD 1,800. “komšija”, or neighbour. Moreover, I am a Bulgarian phone cards. When you buy the card, Maksis Taxi: 19804 Taxis can be paid for only in cash and neighbour, which I guess means you can put as much credit on them as Beogradski Taxi: 19801 There are many taxi companies in the driver will not provide a receipt un- Žuti Taxi: 19082 that I obviously should under- you want. Swipe them over the validat- Belgrade. All legal taxis have a taxi sign less asked for one. Tipping is not obligato- stand Serbian because all the ing machines inside the bus, which are DRIVING with the company logo on the roof, a ry, but it’s common to round up the sum. Serbs who went to Sofia under- by the doors. Automobile and Motorcycle blue sign with a white four-digit serial stood Bulgarian, as people always Association of Serbia, AMSS CITY GUIDE Available at: While plastic cards can be cred- number and a license plate that ends CAR RENTAL kindly inform me. ited with any amount, the maximum +381 (11) 1987, +381 (11) 3331 200 with letters TX. It also means, unfortunately for all Serbs, that I get the Balkans, Tourist Organisation of Belgrade amount for paper cards is RSD 500. Taxis can be hailed on the street or To rent a car in Belgrade, you must be Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 UniRent Rent a Car, Nikola Tesla Airport and honestly, Belgrade is as Bal- Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Each time the card is validated, the +381 (11) 2094 140, www.unirent.rs ordered by phone. When ordering a over 21 and have a driver’s license valid kan as it gets. It’s bipolar because Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 card holder will hear a beep and the taxi, just give the address where the for at least two years. Most agencies re- Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva that’s what we are in this part of price of a ride will be deducted from the Avis Rent a Car, Pivljanina Baje 43/6 taxi should pick you up. Taxis also wait quire credit card payments. Rental com- the world. We suffer from severe +381 (11) 3676 644, +381 (11) 2097 062, www.avis.rs Hotel Moskva card’s credit. The screen will show how for customers at taxi stands that can be panies can be found around the city, mood swings and, to make it even Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRDAE much credit is left on the card. found at most major intersections in while the bigger agencies have offices worse, we are just as stubborn as the mosquitoes that inhabit this FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior The validating machines also tell Budget Rent a Car, Omladinskih Brigada 90a the city. Take the first one in line. in the city center and at the airport. The Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 APROPO otherwise beautiful place. you the current stop, and the next one, +381 (11) 3113 050, www.budget.rs It is not easy to know if a taxi is over- agencies offer online booking as well. TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Bookstore and tearoom So what is Belgrade? A crazy Supermarket concept store Cara Lazara 10 so you can always check where you are charging you – but if you check the While some agencies include GPS mixture of things you never PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 +381 11 2625839 Hertz Autotechnica, Vladimira Popovica 6 and where you need to get off. company sign and license plates, you systems and air conditioning in the imagined could (or should) be GUIDED TURS THROUGH BELGRADE +381 (11) 2028 200, www.hertz.rs Hotel Townhouse 27 At the Belgrade Airport Multi-trip tickets are valid for an un- should be OK. In all vehicles the meter price, others charge extra for these. mixed together: kafanas, splavs, WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 limited number of rides lasting 75 min- PARKING should be visible to the customer. Make underground clubs, beaches, Hudson news odlasci / departures exchange offices (there’s one RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Hudson news dolasci / arrivals utes. Although the timing starts when Belgrade Parking Service, Kraljice Marije 7, sure that the meter is turned on when Find more info on Belgrade’s transpor- Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 Hudson news čekiranje / check in the ticket is validated for the first time, +381 (11) 3035 400, www.parking-servis.co.rs they start, and the initial amount reads tation with a map of public transport every five metres!), old churches, ENTERTAINMENT VALUES www.bookingrooms.rs Hudson news transit zona / transit Parking Service Complaints center, Starine No- new churches, Communist apart- passengers must validate their tickets RSD 170. If not, tell the driver to stop and lines and a map of city in Belgrade vaka 22, +381 (11) 3231 289, +381 (11) 323 7276 ment buildings, mosquitoes, hills, in every bus or that they subse- get out. Insight City Guide. bakeries, and rakija. Prijatno! 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 7 ADVERT BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 Gas prices in Serbia to go up in August

Household gas bills will be higher by 1.1 to 1.3 per cent as OPEN AIR SHOPPING CENTRE of August 1st, the Council of the US flights Serbian Energy Agency said on July 9th. The new prices reflect the changes to the real costs

Business in brief in brief Business of gas imports and domestic production since December Čumićevo Sokače not ready for 2013. More international, fewer domestic tourists

takeoff About 786,333 tourists travelled across Serbia from January till May. This is four per cent less then at the same period last year. According to the Serbian Statistical Office this came as a result of a decreasing number of domestic tourist, despite a larger number of foreigners arriving. Domestic tourists accounted for 46 57 per cent of total visits, a 14 per cent less then in 2013. The 45 number of foreign visitors, on the 48 other hand rose per 12 per cent.

49 44 40 Corridor X to be finished in 2016 43 The Construction Minister, Zorana 99 Mihajlović, stated on July 7th that 36 the Serbian section of Corridor 10, the pan-European highway that should run from Austria and Greece, would be finished by 2016. She said the state was 25 introducing new rules on all the 82 building sites, and any failure to 20 19 meet deadlines would result in 15 contract termination. 19 Experts doubt Air Serbia will launch US flights any time soon. Photo by Beta Amended tax law adopted erbia’s national carrier, Jat fore obtaining permits from the US De- Department to deny Air Serbia code- DOUBTS THAT Airways, signed a strategic partment of Transport. “At the moment, share rights on Etihad flights. US FLIGHTS COULD Parliament adopted amendments partnership agreement with Air Serbia does not have such aircraft,” They opposed Air Serbia’s applica- PAY OFF to the Law on Tax Procedure UAE’s Etihad Airways on Au- the Directorate wrote. tion on the grounds that Etihad’s 49 per and Tax Administration on July gust 1st, 2013, changing the The last step would be for the US De- cent stake in the carrier would allow Slobodan Gvozdenović, professor at 3rd. The new rules regulate Map artwork by S the switch to electronic tax name of the company to Air Serbia. partment of Transportation to issue a Etihad to control its operations, thereby Belgrade University’s Faculty of Trans- GANOO DISTRICT STUDIO FOR CONTEMPORARY ART Although the contract has not yet license to Air Serbia, allowing the com- violating the US requirement that for- port, meanwhile told BIRN that the an- payments, tighten up the been published, BIRN obtained the pany to fly to the US. eign airlines operating in the US must nouncement of flights to the US next controls and increase penalties draft of the contract, made six days be- “After the usual checks and the check be owned and controlled by the airline’s year was unrealistic, as not enough pas- for tax offences. The Finance fore the signing, which states that the on the financial documentation of the country or by that country’s citizens. sengers would use the route. Minister, Lazar Krstić, said the 15 19 19 20 25 government would hold 51 per cent company, the economic office at the In its ruling, the US Department of He believes that direct US flights will amendments would further the of the company’s shares, while Etihad Department of Transportation can is- Transportation agreed that Air Serbia likely not be established at all, as Serbia campaign against the “grey” would have the other 49 per cent. sues license to a foreign air carrier to had responded to allegations about will not be able to supply enough pas- economy and marked the first Since the deal with Etihad was operate,” the Directorate said. potential foreign control with “generali- sengers to keep the flights full. step towards comprehensive hatched, Air Serbia has been develop- In January, the US Department of ties” that did not refute the substance of “We don’t have businessmen who reform of the tax system. ing a network of flight destinations. This Transportation rejected Air Serbia’s ap- the allegations. would travel on that route, and they are spring alone it included eight new ones plication to code-share with Etihad Air- The Department also denied Air the people who keep every such route UAE’s Al Rawafed to OIL WORKSHOP. ECO ART. GIFT SHOP. invest in agriculture HANDMADE HOMEWARE DESIGN FROM Edible oils, natural handmade cosmetics, gifts in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. ways on the latter’s flights to the United Serbia’s request for a waiver of the De- alive,” he said. VINTAGE TO PROVCATIVE Made in Serbia States. partment’s policies on ownership and “We simply don’t have the capacities Tel/Fax: +381 11 3248676 The Economy Ministry and Working hours: Mob: +381 64 0064103 Gallery of unique items STILL STUCK The decision came after Delta Air control on the grounds that such as for such fights, either in terms of sala- Mon-FriL 12:00-20:00, Sat: 12:00-16:00 The BEST COFFEE in town Jewelry, fashion accessories, original gifts. Tel: +381 60 44 24 777; +381 64 26 38 210 Lines and the Air Line Pilots Associa- waiver would be “inimical to US policy ries [in Serbia] or judging by GDP per the United Arab Emirates’s E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] ON THE RUNWAY Phone: +381 11 33 44 905 www.sushibartokyo.com www.holigiftshop.rs tion, ALPA, successfully lobbied for the or interests”. capita,” Gvozdenovic added. company, Al Rawafed, signed an 060/15-33-088, 060/461-24-43 FB: www.facebook.com/allnutbelgrade www.remakehome.net According to the Directorate of Civil He also doubts that Belgrade could agreement on joint investment Aviation of Serbia, the fact that Serbia become a regional hub for passengers in Serbian agriculture on July th 36 40 43 44 45 is back on the list of category 1 coun- travelling to the US. 4 . Serbia and Al Rawafed tries means that Serbian laws on air CARRIERS “It is hard to expect someone from plan to form a joint venture for GANOO DISTRICT traffic and other regulations in this ABANDON BELGRADE , who used to fly to the US from investments. The ministry stated STUDIO FOR CONTEMPORARY ART field are deemed acceptable by the US Munich, now to change his route and that the company would invest authorities. This decision allows air travel via Belgrade,” he declared. €140 million over the next four Fashion studio,Handmade companies to apply for flights to the Dragan Nikolić, an expert in air years. The government has As Air Serbia prepares to widen its network of destinations, several workshop,Unique garment and accessories United States. traffic, believes enough passengers already made a similar deal with Gallery exibits paintings of D.M.Tapi, well YE YE VINTAGE SHOP carriers have decided to cancel their flights to and from Belgrade. the UAE company, Al Dahra, but Body Piercing, Piercing jewelry known Serbian painter-hipperrealist, Working hours: mon.-fri.: 12h-19h “Air Serbia and other Serbian compa- would wish to travel to America. But sat.: 12h-16h Vintage shop gives you the opportunity to nies can apply for the license at the US he agrees that the number would not Al Dahra instead bought half of Silver and stainless steel rings, necklaces, including selling giftshop. Low budget airline Wizz Air cancelled its flights to Oslo and Brus- bracelets, Leather bracelets Phone: +381 11 3244 320, +381 64 198 39 66 stand out and express your personality! Department of Transportation, which be enough to sustain a regular year- local private company Rudnap RETRO: sels and cut the number of flights to other destinations in May. http://ganoo.free.fr Phone: +381 11 323 06 72; +381 63 864 88 52 e-mail: [email protected] issues permits for specific routes,” the round service. Agrar. Phone: 011 334 3376 e-mail: [email protected] Clothing, accessories, cameras, shoes, decor [email protected] FB: www.facebook.com/Autorke Directorate of Civil Aviation stated. He noted that aircraft making trans- www.facebook.com/bebeautybg www.dmtapi.com Phone: +381 65 888 51 42 The company previously announced that it would cut the number The next step that will allow Bel- atlantic flights are required to be wide- Vučić meets big of flights operating through Belgrade by 50 per cent, citing the businessmen grade-based companies to launch expense of the costs at Nikola Tesla airport. body aircraft, with a large capacity in 46 48 49 82 99 flights to the states involves the US au- terms of seats that have to be filled. The Prime Minister, Aleksandar thorities making a detailed assessment The company stated that after the costs went up by 40 per cent, “The threshold of profitability for Vučić, met businessmen at the of controls at Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Belgrade had become the most expensive airport in Wizz Air’s such flights is very high, which is why Airport and issuing necessary permits there aren’t so many European cities Serbian Business Club Privrednik network. th about the safety of the airport. with direct links to the US and Canada,” on July 4 . According to Miodrag For Air Serbia to obtain permission B92 reported on June 18th that Germanwings was also to cancel Nikolić said. Kostić, from the company MK Backpacker prices, cool music, free Wi-Fi to fly to Chicago and Washington, a bi- its route from Belgrade to Stuttgart as of October. This is the only “For such flights to be profitable, the Group, the Prime Ministers and internet, friendly staff, willing to help THINK OF YOURSELF AND lateral agreement must be signed on air flight the company has in Serbia. carrier would need to have an entire some of Serbia’s best known INVEST IN YOUR HEALTH Pjone: +381 60 0960240 FIRST FLOOR traffic. network of short and medium lines that businessmen discussed how Working hours: Mon-Sat 10-01 email: [email protected] UNISEX HAIR SALON Spa and wellness centers in Serbia. ALL ABOUT CERAMICS AND PORCELAIN The Directorate of Civil Aviation told Local media also stated that Swiss International Air Lines would would ‘fill’ transatlantic flights with pas- to increase exports and ways FIRST FLOOR Phone: 063 7398605 Phone: +381 11 3341 670, Phone: +381 11 324 19 47 cut the number of its flights from Belgrade to Zurich and Geneva in which the government could www.marijaivankovic.com Phone: +381 11 328-3542, Working hours: mon-fri 12-20h, sat 12-17h BIRN that Air Serbia and other carriers sengers from other centres,” he added. email: [email protected] +381 63 850 25 15 th help with issuing permits and +381 1126-27-049 http://gallery1250.com registered in the country must have the by almost 40 per cent from October 27 . “Air Serbia still does not have such de- right planes for transatlantic flights be- veloped network,” Nikolić concluded. approvals for operations. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 9 ADVERT Map of Zemun OUT AND ABOUT

Continued from page 1 Zemun, a city in a city DANUBE

Gardoš Tower, built by the Hungarians. Photo by Tamara Polajnar/Flickr View over the rooftops of Zemun. Photo by Tamara Polajnar/Flickr

CENTAR ZA PROMOCIJU UMETNIČKIH ... malo topline, zlata vredno... ZANATA I RUKOTVORINA TASTE SERBIAN HOME MADE MEALS, AND A little bit of warmth is golden. CENTER FOR THE PROMOTION FEEL SERBIAN FAMILY HOSPITALITY. ENJOY! OF CRAFTS AND HANDICRAFTS Very unique pieces..come and see Kej oslobodjenja 47, +381 11 373 09 34 Njegoševa 53, Zemun Kej oslobodjenja 61 FB: facebook.com/familijazemun +381 (0) 64 428 16 14, +381 (0) 63 465 768 Facebook.com/unca.fibre email: [email protected] facebook.com Помпон – pompon

HOTEL ZLATNIK Some lanes in the old Zemun are still cobbled. Photo by Marko Kuđerski/Flickr Photo by Patrick M The Danube riverbank viewed from Zemun. Photo by Stefano Giantin/Flickr RAFT BAR & NAUTI CAL CLUB MM LOCALS USUALLY SAY THAT VISITING ZEMUN HOSTEL ROOMS WITH BATHROM Dobanovačka 95 AND NOT DROPPING IN TO ŠARAN arrow lanes and low hous- The fact that Zemun was long a Habs- As we enter another narrow street, Pa- Next to them is a bar sporting a Brazil- ska, that leads us to the main square. / RESTAURANT / PRIVATE PARTIES IS LIKE NOT VISITING ZEMUN AT ALL. Phone: +381 011 3167 515 es, leaning one against burg town, and Belgrade an Ottoman city, run talks about what seems to be Zemun’s ian flag. Signs of the World Cup are every- The square, Magistratski, is full of cafés Zemunski kej bb, Beograd Mob: +381 63 11 67 365 Kej oslobođenja 53,Zemun the other, with tall fences, explains why cultural differences have obsession – its many churches. where. and restaurants. Comparing it to the central Tel: + 381 373 9455, + 381 373 9456, so you cannot see inside survived between the two. Indeed, it was “I can see eight churches from my win- Republic Square in Belgrade, you feel you www.hotelzlatnik.com Tel: 011/2618235 I 069/2618235 +381 63 221 342 www.saran.co.rs the gardens, are another not until November 5th, 1918, that Zemun dow. But some are empty, which makes STREET WITH MANY NAMES are not in the same city. The lanes around Nfeature of Zemun. Owing to these differ- became a part of Yugoslavia, or, as it was them ghost buildings,” he noted. the square are small and narrow, full of street ences, locals often call Zemun the “city in then called, the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats In “Jewish Street”, which was home to Above the cluster of restaurants stands singers and sellers of second-hand goods. the city”. and Slovenes. local Jews until the pogroms of World War Gardoš, the Millennium tower, built in Between Magistratski and Glavna lies The differences are more than archi- 2, there used to be a synagogue. Closed in 1896 to celebrate the thousandth anniver- another odd historical landmark, a street tectural. The real difference starts from FROM SYNAGOGUE the Communist era, it was turned into a sary of the Kingdom of Hungary [which that has changed its name four times dur- FIRST AND ONLY COME AND TRY the moment you cross the river, locals TO RESTAURANT restaurant in 1997. after 1867 enjoyed home rule within Aus- ing the past century. DINER IN THE CITY! Restorant & Hostel OUR SPECIALTY PERCH say. That topic brings us to what Zemun tria-Hungary]. Once named Gospodska, “Gentlemen’s WITH A BLACK ‘ROUND THE CLOCK “The core of Zemun has always been According to the sundial, it was about is now famous for – its fish restaurants “There are four or five taverns along Street”, it was renamed after Hitler dur- SEVEN DAYS PER WEEK TRUFFLES SAUCE BOARDING FOR Dunavska priča a multinational and multi-confessional 12.30 when we crossed the main street, on Zemun quay, a kilometer-long prom- the way up to the tower. Not suitable for ing the Nazi German occupation before Working Hours: TIME TRAVEL Mon-Sun commercial society, which is easy to called Glavna, which simply means enade with various entertainment fa- high heels however,” Parun said, turning being renamed after Lenin following the BACK TO HAPPY 50’S. Kej oslobodjenja 69 Phone: +381 65 2193391, 10 am - 12 am grasp because commerce knows no race, “main”, in Serbian. cilities along it, including barge-cafés, an from Gardoš to the Kalemegdan Fortress, Communist takeover. +381 60 0197740 ethnicity, or colour,” Parun said. “You see the gas station?” Parun asked, amusement park and what was once the which lies down the Danube on the other “Then it became Gospodska again,” Pa- In SERVICE WITH Kej oslobodjenja 45 “The mentality of Zemunians is more pointing to it across a busy street full of largest hotel in Belgrade, the Hotel Jugo- side of the banks. run recalled, pointing at the stores, book- Front Entrance [email protected] A SMILE AND Phone +381 11 2101401 cosmopolitan, as Zemun truly is a melt- cars and transport vehicles. slavija. “Urban legend says there is a long un- stalls and an old-time shop with rustic Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3 REAL FOOD [email protected] Tel: +381 11 405 86 86 THRU ENTIRE TRIP. www.restoranplatani.rs ing pot for the whole of the Balkans,” he “That used to be the first brewery in Ze- For fans of river food, the quay, accord- derpass between Gardoš and Kalemeg- clocks in the window. added, stopping to show me a sundial, the mun; a German opened it as soon as they ing to critics, is a top option. The restau- dan. It has never been proved, but it does Whatever name it carried, business al- only one in Zemun, and possibly the only expelled the Turks,” he said. No remains of rants lean one against the other, each fac- make sense,” Parun said, as we leave the ways carried on here, he noted. Just as it one in Belgrade as well. an 18th-century brewery survive, however. ing the Danube. riverbank and enter a short street, Lagum- has done in the rest of the “city in the city”. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 11 ARTS DINING OUT

Watery images at Dutch Film Festival Kolarac Mammoth The fourth short festival of park opens Dutch cinema, intended to Belgrade dining options show off the “Dutch national

Arts in brief Arts in brief in Eastern spirit and character”, takes celebrates place from July 12th-13th at Serbia Dom Omladine. The theme th of the festival this year is water, and how it influences art gallery’s 50 are rich and plentiful the society and culture of the Netherlands. A series of feature-length films and birthday The capital shorts will be screened for the Dutch embassy-subsi- boasts a variety of dised price of €1 a day. restaurants, snack Dom Omladine goes to the moon bars, bakeries and

A second mini-festival at fast food outlets, Dom Omladine this month, th th which range from July 18 -20 , offers he recently opened Mam- movies about the moon and moth Park isn’t really a space in general. Some of park in the usual sense widely in terms the films that will be shown – it’s actually housed in at the ‘Moon on Film’ festival a 1,500-square-metre- of prices and Twide cave, some 30 metres below the are cult Nazis-in-space menus. comedy ‘Iron Sky’, children’s ground. animation ‘Moon Man’, The star attraction at the park at Viminacijum, an archeological site in here are hundreds of plac- conspiracy-theory thriller the eastern town of Kostolac, is the es where you can have a ‘Capricorn One’, and vintage skeleton of one-million-year-old Vika, meal in Belgrade, but the comedy ‘Man in the Moon’. the oldest mammoth ever found in city centre is most crowd- Europe. ed with eateries, and you Artworks explore Vika, whose bones were found in Twon’t have to go far there to find a place Julio Cortázar’s 2009, is one of just three mammoths that fits your taste and budget. Portions influence found in the last 100 years whose skel- tend to be generous and, in most places, eton is completely preserved. tasty, so you may end up leaving the Thirty-five artists who have Also on show at the park are the remains city with a few extra kilos. of four 180,000-year-old woolly mam- Most restaurants offer fusion cuisine, been inspired by the Argen- moths, Nosko, Trbuško, Džomla and Mapi. but many also focus on Serbian na- tinean author Julio Cortázar The biggest attraction for children tional dishes. In terms of international The steak at Toro Latin Bar in Beton Hala is a must-taste. are on display at Belgrade’s however is a wooden mammoth made dining, there are a number of Italian res- Cervantes Institute, with from Siberian larch, which kids can taurants, one or two offering Thai and much and a couple of appetizers might which are generally grills. Most are Most places accept credit cards, such as tip the waiter if you wish to and 10 per works including photogra- actually climb inside. Indian cuisine, a smattering of pseudo- be enough. good, offering a burger for less than €3. Visa, MasterCard, Diners and American cent is counted as a decent tip. As add- phy, video, painting, graphic Serbian President Tomislav Nikolic Mexican restaurants, several Chinese Prices are usually reasonable and For the same price or lower you can Express. If you do not see a sign on the ing a tip to a credit card bill does not design and installation art. A officially opened the park on June 30th eateries and a couple of sushi places. do not vary that much from one place usually get a slice of pizza in most parts door, ask first. When the bill comes, they work in Belgrade, you should tip the documentary about the life at an event where Vika’s ‘millionth Most will provide a menu in English if to another. The price for a whole meal of the city centre. At lunchtime, sev- will always ask if you wish to pay by cash staff in cash. of Cortázar will be screened birthday’ was celebrated with a huge asked. usually ranges from €15 to €40 per eral places serve meals at special rates, or card. VAT is included in the price on the Find more info on Belgrade’s dining out of- on July 15th and there will be cake and performances by schoolchil- In most restaurants, because the por- head. such as Taze [Vasina 3] and Holesterol menu, so what you see is what you get. dren. tions are so substantial, if you are not If you are looking for a decent, inex- [Dobračina 59B], where you can have There should never be a service fer, with a detailed list of restaurants and fast a discussion about how jazz too hungry the main course may be too pensive meal, try the fast-food joints, the whole meal for €5-€6. charge or extra tax on the bill. You can food, in Belgrade Insight City Guide. music influenced the author on July 17th. BELGRADE’S BEST OFFERS Bosnian artists on DOMESTIC CUISINE ASIAN CUISINE LATINO CUISINE show at National Carda Stara koliba, Absinthe, Kralja Milutina 33, Frida, Karađorđeva 2-4, wide variety of national restaurants offer substan- Museum Uše , +381 (11) 3117 666, +381 (11) 3640 625, www.absint.rs +381 (11) 2181 107, www.cantinadefrida.com www.starakoliba.rs tially the same basic menu. It starts with roštilj, often Jimmy Woo, Strahinjica bana 47, Toro Latin Gastrobar, Karađorđeva 2-4, translated as barbecue but which is really grilled Bosnian artists from the EXHIBITIONS Đorđe, Moravska 10, +381 (11) 3441 422, +381 (11) 3220 383, www.moon-sushi.com/ +381 (11) 3034 342 meats, winter fare such as sarma (wrapped cabbage) southern city of Trebinje will www.restorandjordje.rs restaurants/view/jimmy-woo AND EVENTS or prebranac (baked beans). Portions are large. Do be displaying their works in Zapata, Vojvode Bogdana 13 and Vuka th Franš, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, , Safarikova 11, not miss sarmice sa zeljem (like Greek stuffed vine the atrium of the National SUNDAY JULY 12 Makao Karadzica 14, +381 (11) 3809 207, +381 (11) 2641 944, www.frans.rs +381 (11) 3224 733, www.makao-bg.com Zaplet www.zapatabeograd.com leaves,A or dolmas) at restaurant [Kajmakčalanska 2], ćevapi (simi- Museum in Belgrade until Touring Dutch Cinema – Highlights of lar to kebabs) at Loki [Gospodar Jovanova 27], lepinja sa kajmakom (a Klub književnika, Francuska 7, July 20th. The works by 26 the Lowlands, Dom Omladine, Make- Moon sushi bar, Decanska 5, +381 (11) 2627 931, www.klubknjizevnika.rs PASTRY SHOPS special kind of roll with creamy, runny cheese) at Mara’s [Novopazarska donska 22, from 7pm +381 (11) 3344 569, moon-sushi.com artists, who include Marko 14], fresh fish specialties at Šaran [Kej oslobođenja 53], chicken breast th Musović, Željka Momirov, Mystic Cello opens celebrations of Kolarac’s 50 anniversary Mala fabrika ukusa, Nebojsina 49a, Bombaj, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 208, James Blond – sound performance, Stab Peking, Vuka Karadzica 2, with cream of spinach and baked with quail eggs at Homa [Žorža Kle- +381 (11) 2435 727, malafabrikaukusa.com +381 (11) 2424 169 Žarko Vučković and Savo Gallery, Crnogorska 10, 9pm +381 (11) 2181 931, www.peking.co.rs mansoa 19], steak at Toro [Karađorđeva 2-4], kifla (rolls) at Carli bakery promoting contemporary artists. The Peković, offer an insight into Lorenzo i Kakalamba, Cvijiceva 110, [Braće Jugović 16], the Caesar’s Salad at Monument [Admirala Geprata The Ilija M Kolarac Endowment is gallery is one of the few larger ones in th ITALIAN CUISINE Mali princ, Palmoticeva 27, the state of contemporary TUESDAY JULY 15 +381 (11) 3295 351, www.lk.rs th Belgrade that has been open to show- +381 (11) 3226 161 14 and Čika Ljubina 9], prasići (“piglets” cake, made of biscuit and art in the country. apricot) in Mamma’s Biscuit House [Strahinjića Bana 72a], crepes made celebrating the 50 anniversary of casing budding art talents from across Exhibition: Cortazar Year 2014 – group Stara Hercegovina, Carigradska 36, +381 Botako, Nevesinjska 6, +381 (11) 3446 770, www.pizzabotako.rs Snežana, Knez Mihailova 50, the country, and has made highlight- of authors, Istituto Cervantes, Čika (11) 3245 856, www.starahercegovina.rs with Nutella and plazma (a kind of biscuit) at Pinokio [Karađorđeva 12c], +381 (11) 2635 706 Photographic the opening of its art gallery, which ing young talents in various spheres of Ljubina 19, 7pm dark chocolate and raspberry ice cream at Moritz Ice [Vuka Karadžića FUSION CUISINE Comunale, Karađorđeva 2-4, journey from visual art a priority. +381 (11) 3037 337, www.comunale.rs 9] and limunana (a special lemonade) at Smokvica [Kralja Petra 73 and will not only include art exhibitions Exhibition: Kaleidoscope group – Art in FAST FOOD The anniversary celebration will in- Molerova 33]. Barcelona to , Belgrade Train Station, Dijagonala 2.0, Skerliceva 6, public spaces Freska, Vuka Karadzica 12, Belgrade but also concerts. clude works from 12 artists who have Savski Trg 2, 7pm +381 (11) 2449 099, www.2tacka0.rs Inter Galactic Diner, showcased their art over the last year +381 (11) 3284 893 Internacionalnih brigada 22, Iguana, Karađorđeva 2-4, David on flute, Nebojša Janković on the cello in the gallery. This will be a group ex- th +381 (11) 2434 444, David Pujado, a Spanish GALIĆ WEDNESDAY JULY 16 +381 (11) 3283 749, www.iguana.rs La Piazza, Milesevska 54, and Miodrag Janković on guitar. hibition of all the artists who held in- www.intergalacticdiner.com photographer currently living +381 (11) 3836 634, www.lapiazza.rs ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ he celebration began on The Rocher Quartet is made up of dependent exhibitions in the gallery Exhibition: Artistic interventions 2, Jerry, Tresnjinog cveta 11, ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Stepin Vajat, in Belgrade whose work is July 10th with a perfor- violinist Radmila Vardalić, viola player in 2013. The exhibition is open until the Magacin, Kraljevića Marka 4, 7pm +381 (11) 6302 459, www.jerry.rs Pomodoro, Hilandarska 32, Vojvode Stepe 2l, RESTURANT KOVAČ full of “simplicity and mini- mance by the Mystic Cello Dejan Rokvić, Vojislav Despotović on end of August. +381 (11) 3342 897, www.pomodoro.rs THURSDAY JULY 17th Public, Kosancicev venac, +381 (11) 2460 564 modern ethno restaurant malism”, has a show called group, and will continue double-bass and Ružica Arnautović on Since it was founded in 1964 the +381 (11) 3283 680, www.restoran-public.rs MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE ‘Fragments’ at the Zečević on July 11th and 12th. percussion. gallery has hosted over 800 different Exhibition: Avantgarde from Dana to Tel Aviv Hummus House, Gallery in Cara Uroša Street TThe Sensartika Quartet will perform Besides the art gallery, the Kolarac exhibitions. Each year, it organises a Surrealism, Milica Zorić and Rodoljub Pire, Cara Lazara 11, Balzac, Strahinjica bana 13, Carice Milice 3, until July 17th. Pujado is on July 11th at the Endowment at 7pm, Endowment has been the premier competition for young artists who want Cilaković Endowment, Rodoljuba +381 (11) 2634 994, www.pirerestoran.com +381 (11) 3285 906, www.balzac.rs +381 (0) 69 2632 224 and on July 12th the Rocher Quartet will venue for classic music performances to submit their artwork in the hope of Čolakovića 2, from 12pm to 8pm displaying a collection of Square Nine, 9, +381 (11) , Kolarceva 6-8, perform at the same time. There will be in Belgrade for decades, as it is known landing an exhibition in the gallery. In Gaston, Uzun Mirkova 5, Toma bakery pictures which see the SATURDAY JULY 19th 3333 533, www.squarenine.rs +381 (11) 3285 811, www.gostionicagaston.com +381 (11) 2636 343 no admission fee for either concert and for its exceptional acoustics. this way, it has jump-started the careers unusual in everyday scenes Supermarket, Visnjiceva 10, all are welcome to join the celebration. Over five decades, the art gallery of of many young artists, many of whom Poetry on the summer stage – Majo Gusti mora, Radnicka 27, Trpković, Nemanjina 32, in various cities around the +381 (11) 2910 942, www.supermarket.rs Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 The Sensartika Quartet includes Son- the endowment has become one of the went on to become respected names in Danilović, Đura Jakšić House, Skadar- +381 (11) 3551 268, www.pomodoro.rs +381 (11) 3615 906 www.restorankovac.com world, including Belgrade. ja Kalajić on violin, Dušanka Abramović leading galleries in the city in terms of the international art world. ska 34, 8pm 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT US embassy ADVERTORIAL celebrates Independence A Fresher, Day Younger Look ichael Kirby, the US Ambassador to Serbia, hosted a US Independence Day celebration at his residency in Fast and Min Belgrade on July 4th. Numerous officials attended, including President Tomislav Nikolić and National Bank governor Jorgovanka Pain-Free Tabaković, as did Crown Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević and his wife, Katherine. Ways Clubbing MONDAY JULY 14TH THURSDAY JULY 17TH SATURDAY JULY 19TH hh Flashdance, Lasta, Hercegovačka bb, hh Just Relax, Just Vanilla, Ada Ciganlija, hh DJ Gru & DJ Playa, Just Vanilla, Ada hh Marko Gangbanger, Šlep, boat on 11pm With new non-surgical, painless and TH FRIDAY JULY 11 11pm Ciganlija, 11pm Sava River, 11pm hh TurnUP TurnUP, Povetarac, Staro hh Psychedelic Garden, Sava Centre Summer rapid procedures, your face can gain hh Mess Around Monday, Hot Mess, boat hh Alt Kafana, Šlep, boat on Sava River, hh Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm sajmište bb, 11pm Stage, Milentija Popovića 9, 11pm on Sava River, 11pm 11pm hh DJ Mirko & DJ Meeks, Freestyler, boat hh Milica Todorović, Jimmy’s, Ušće 1a, a fresher, younger and smoother hh Dj Finnebassen, Hot Mess, boat on hh Die beste, Cantina De Frida, hh Pop/Rock 80s/90s, Angels, Pariska 1, on Sava River, 11pm 11pm Sava River, 11pm Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm 11pm hh Ike & Prema, Club 94, boat on Sava appearance in less then a day. hh Beso de Loco, Kafana Druga kuća, hh Ike & Prema, Club 94, boat on Sava hh Nikola Bobar and White City Band, hh Maja Volk, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, River, 11pm River, 11pm Nušićeva 27, 10pm Kafana Druga kuća, Nušićeva 27, 10pm 11pm hh New Sound, Sound, boat on Sava Silhouette Soft can be used to treat h h DJ Ognjen Krstić, Šlep, boat on Sava hh Žile Hram, Uzbuna, Brodarska bb, River, 11pm different parts of the face, including TH THURSDAY JULY 24TH River, 11pm TUESDAY JULY 15 10pm hh Ladies Night/Brit’n’Bass, KST, Bulevar the facial contour, lower jaw, cheeks h h hh Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm h Chill Out, Hot Mess, boat on Sava hh Nikola & Yabba, Freestyler, Brodarska kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm h Alt Kafana, Šlep, boat on Sava River, and cheekbones, eyebrows and neck. hh Sound Rock, Sound, boat on Sava River, 11pm bb, 10pm hh Filip Mitrović and Endži, Kafana Druga 11pm The product can be applied as a sin- h River, 11pm h Denis & Obule, Cantina De Frida, hh Party, Povetarac, Staro sajmište, 11pm kuća, Nušićeva 27, 10pm hh House Night, Freestyler, boat on Sava gle treatment or in combination with Karađorđeva 2-4, 10.30pm hh Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar hh Panike Bez, Tijuana Svemirska Kafana, hh Betty Boom Band, Bitef Art Café River, 11pm fillers and botulinum toxin. It is the hh Mikica i Arsa, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, best way to look youthful and natural, kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Savski kej bb, 11pm Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm hh Pop/Rock 80s/90s, Angels, Pariska 1, hh Blah Blah bend, Cantina De Frida, 11pm especially for people with minor fa- hh Lasta goes Hip hop, Lasta, 11pm h TH cial sagging and early signs of ageing, Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm h Peđa and Endži, Kafana Druga kuća, Hercegovačka bb, 11.30pm SUNDAY JULY 20 hh Basswave, KST, Bulevar kralja meaning almost all people who have hh La Luna, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, 11pm Nušićeva 27, 10pm h hh DJ Ike, Hot Mess, boat on Sava River, h Rasuolo band, Akapulko, Kej Ambassador Michael Kirby with President Nikolić. The US Ambassador with the Karađorđević family. reached their early 40s. hh Milena Ćeranić, Jimmy’s, Ušće 1a, 11pm 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm TH oslobođenja bb, 10pm Rejuvenation with your own plas- WEDNESDAY JULY 16 h hh Žile Hram, Uzbuna, Brodarska bb, hh Nikola Bobar and White City Band, hh Dženan Ločarević, Jimmy’s, Ušće 1a, h Belgrade Banging, Freestyler, boat on hh Save the Rave Bday: Etnica & ma Sava River, 11pm 10pm Kafana Druga kuća, Nušićeva 27, 11pm Indian embassy One of the latest skin regenera- Pleiadians Best Of set by Max h 10pm hh Ivan Petrović, Kafana Druga kuća, h RnB & House Night, River, boat on hh Nikola & Yabba, Freestyler, Brodarska tion and rejuvenation methods is the Lanfranconi, Sava Centre Summer hh St Louis Band, Bitef Art Café Summer Nušićeva 27, 10pm Sava River, 11pm bb, 10pm PRP-PLATELET RICH PLASMA. This Stage, Milentija Popovića 9, 11pm and fashion Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm hh Matinee party, Lasta, Hercegovačka Dr Biljana ĐURĐEVIĆ is a method that involves the use of hh DJ Ales, Hot Mess, boat on Sava River, hh Party, Povetarac, Staro sajmište, 11pm FRIDAY JULY 18TH bb, 5pm growth factors and stem cells from hh Panike Bez, Tijuana Svemirska Kafana, SATURDAY JULY 12TH 11pm hh Alexander Kowalski, Svemirska hh Dušan Kačarević, Disko Bar Mladost, studio help e recommend your own blood - plasma. h hh Marko Gangbanger, Šlep, boat on h Get Wet – Foam Party, Just Vanilla, Kafana, boat on Sava River, 11pm Karađorđeva 44, 10pm Savski kej bb, 11pm two procedures Depending on what effect is de- Sava River, 11pm Ada Ciganlija, 11pm hh Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar hh Filip Mitrović, Kafana Druga kuća, hh Lasta goes Hip hop, Lasta, victims to those seek- sired, plasma can be applied to the h hh Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm h Disco, KST, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Nušićeva 27, 10pm Hercegovačka bb, 11.30pm ashion studio Click in cooperation with the ing to freshen up surface in order to soften fine lines 73, 10pm Indian embassy organised a Midsummer their look and and wrinkles, as well as to improve hh DJ Mirko & DJ Meeks, Freestyler, boat hh DJ Ognjen, Šlep, boat on Sava River, hh Rasuolo band, Akapulko, Kej hh Koktel bend, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, ST Charity Fashion Night on July 3rd with an aim Wcombat ageing at the same time as pre- the texture, quality and appearance MONDAY JULY 21 on Sava River, 11pm 11pm oslobođenja bb, 10pm h of raising funds for the Centre for Housing serving their natural appearance and of the skin. Alternatively, it can be ap- hh Ike & Prema, Club 94, boat on Sava 11pm hh Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm h Just Relax, Just Vanilla, Ada Ciganlija, F hh Dženan Ločarević, Jimmy’s, Ušće 1a, h and Day Care for Children and Youth with Disabilities without going “under the knife”. plied at a deeper level to reduce deep River, 11pm h I Love RnB, Freestyler, boat on Sava hh Ike & Prema, Club 94, boat on Sava 11pm 11pm in flood-stricken Obrenovac. About 20 designers One, Silhouette Soft, provides an im- wrinkles, scars and stretch marks or to hh Ice Tropez White Party, Just Vanilla, River, 11pm hh Mess Around Monday, Hot Mess, boat River, 11pm presented their work at the fashion show and put mediate natural lift effect, resulting in a compensate skin volume. hh House Party, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm on Sava River, 11pm hh Ivan Petrović, Kafana Druga kuća, Ada Ciganlija, 11pm hh Sound Rock, Sound, boat on Sava them on sale. natural, younger appearance that lasts The goal of the treatment is to hh Barkviz, Baranoya Caffe Bar, Nikole hh Die beste, Cantina De Frida, Nušićeva 27, 10pm hh New Sound, Sound, boat on Sava River, 11pm for year. The other, the PRP-PLATELET stimulate the natural mechanisms of Spasića 3, 9pm Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm River, 11pm hh Blah Blah bend, Cantina De Frida, Live Music RICH PLASMA method, ensures long- regeneration and rejuvenation of the h h hh Nineties, KST, Bulevar kralja h Buzzin RnB, Freestyler, Brodarska bb, Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm h Nikola Bobar and White City Band, lasting reduction in wrinkles, scars skin, leading to the formation of new 10pm Kafana Druga kuća, Nušićeva 27, Aleksandra 73, 10pm hh La Luna, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, 11pm SATURAY JULY 12TH and pigmentation, tones up the skin collagen and boosting metabolism in hh Club House, Mr. Stefan Braun, hh Floating Wednesday, Tijuana Svemirska 10pm and provides the face with a fresher the treated region. hh Milena Ćeranić, Jimmy’s, Ušće 1a, hh Convoy, outside Dom Omladine, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Kafana, Savski kej bb, 10pm and brighter look. As a consequence, skin becomes 11pm ND h TUESDAY JULY 22 Makedonska 22,đpm firmer and in general looks fresher, hh Filip Mitrović and Endži, Kafana Druga h Dooshan & Slipi, Ludost, Karađorđeva hh Nikola Bobar and White City Band, hh Chill Out, Hot Mess, boat on Sava hhJozef Nađ and Berklee All Stars SILHOUETTE brighter and tighter; wrinkles become kuća, Nušićeva 27, 10pm 44, 10pm Kafana Druga kuća, Nušićeva 27, h River, 11pm Serbia, Barutana, Kalemegdan SOFT THREAD LIFT less visible and skin texture (pores, hh Betty Boom Band, Bitef Art Café h Vukašin Brajić, Čorba splav, Brodarska 10pm hh Denis & Obule, Cantina De Frida, scars and pigmentation) is improved. Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm bb, 10pm Fortress, 9pm hh St Louis Band, Bitef Art Café Summer Silhouette Soft Thread Lift is a non- It has a very stimulating effect on the h Karađorđeva 2-4, 10.30pm h Sneža Nešić and Nemanja Staletović, Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm TH h TH surgical procedure performed in one area around the eyes, raising the up- SUNDAY JULY 13 Akapulko, Kej oslobođenja bb, 10pm h Mikica i Arsa, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, MONDAY JULY 14 session, efficient for both men and per eyelids and removing the dark cir- hh DJ Ike, Hot Mess, boat on Sava River, 11pm h hh Sunglasses at Night, Sijuks, Savski kej, h Hugh Laurie, Sava Centre, Milentija women who want to effectively com- cles around the eyes and bags under 11pm hh Peđa and Endži, Kafana Druga kuća, 10pm Popovića 9, 8.30pm bat signs of ageing. This procedure is them. Nušićeva 27, 10pm hh Belgrade Banging, Freestyler, boat on hh Sound fever, Sound, Brodarska bb, Nenad Radujević, founder of Click. Narinder Chauhan, the Ambassador of India. the perfect choice for those who do This method can simultaneously Sava River, 11pm 11pm WEDNESDAY JULY 16TH WEDNESDAY JULY 23RD not want heavy and invasive treat- treat the face, neck, bosom, hands and hh RnB & House Night, River, boat on hh Flashdance, Lasta, Hercegovačka bb, hhGulfer, Sport, Young ment but real, natural results. body (stretch marks, cellulite), offer- FREE COPY hh Club 2000, KST, Bulevar kralja Sava River, 11pm 11pm Silhouette Soft comes in the form of ing remarkable results in terms of the Aleksandra 73, 10pm Husbands,Ensh, Fest, Gradski Park International hh Matinee party, Lasta, Hercegovačka hh TurnUP TurnUP, Povetarac, Staro bidirectional absorbable thread cones. stimulation of hair growth. Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. hh I Love RnB, Freestyler, boat on Sava 1 Zemun, 9pm bb, 5pm sajmište bb, 11pm Student Week This is the only product on the beauty The results can be seen immedi- Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade River, 11pm market enabling two joint actions: a lift ately after treatment and, thanks to hh Dušan Kačarević, Disko Bar Mladost, hh Milica Todorović, Jimmy’s, Ušće 1a, FRIDAY JULY 18TH Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 hh House Party, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm effect as soon as Silhouette Soft is ap- its cumulative effect, this method en- Karađorđeva 44, 10pm 11pm hh Barkviz, Baranoya Caffe Bar, Nikole hhThe Love Triangle, Fluffers, kicks off plied for an immediate and discreet sures long-lasting results. Depending h Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić h Filip Mitrović, Kafana Druga kuća, hh Beso de Loco, Kafana Druga kuća, th th BIRN editorial team: Spasića 3, 9pm Sioux, boat on Sava River, rom July 13 to 20 , the capital will result; and a regenerative effect, by on what you want to achieve, the treat- Nušićeva 27, 10pm Nušićeva 27, 10pm th Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, hh Buzzin RnB, Freestyler, Brodarska bb, 10pm host the 8 International Student stimulating the natural production of ment can be repeated two or three Week in Belgrade, ISWiB. This year’s collagen in the months that follow, for times a year. Gordana Andrić 10pm SUNDAY JULY 20TH festival, held under the motto “Syn- progressive and natural results. [email protected] hh Floating Wednesday, Tijuana F ergy for change”, will bring together more Applying Silhouette Soft takes only is a specialist Svemirska Kafana, Savski kej bb, hh Iwrestledabearonce, Texas in July, Dr Biljana Đurđević Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović than 200 students from all over the world. about 30 minutes and requires no hos- dermatovenerologist, with a sub-spe- 10pm Vitja, Dom Omladine, Makedonska Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Over the week, they will participate in vari- pital stay, incisions and cuts, or down- cialisation in aesthetic dermatology, at hh Dooshan & Slipi, Ludost, Karađorđeva TRATTORIA [email protected] 22, 9pm ous workshops, dealing with specific social time. LaDerma clinic. 44, 10pm Subscription & Distribution: problems that the modern world faces. They PIZZERIA hh Vukašin Brajić, Čorba splav, Brodarska RD Goran Knezevic WEDNESDAY JULY 23 will also have a chance to sample Serbian bb, 10pm h +381 11 4030 303 h Celeste, Reka, Eaglehaslanded, Inex, culture and cuisine, get to know its traditions Address: Požarevačka 39 hh Sneža Nešić and Nemanja Staletović, and enjoy Belgrade’s celebrated nightlife. [email protected] Višnjička 76, 10pm Phone: +381 11 2456 259 Akapulko, Kej oslobođenja bb, 10pm ISWiB is organised by World Youth Wave. As Nebojsina 8 Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Mobile: +381 63 7704 456 h TH in the last seven years, ISWiB 2014 will end h Sunglasses at Night, Sijuks, Savski kej, THURSDAY JULY 24 Email: [email protected] 011/3863-999 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight with a Flag Parade, when all the participants 10pm hh Musicology festival: Nicola Conte, [email protected] COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Website: www.laderma.rs hh Sound fever, Sound, Brodarska bb, carry their national flags throughout the www.restoranamici.rs Circulation: 4,000 Kalemegdan Fortress, 9pm centre of Belgrade. 11pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 15 GOING OUT SPORT

not want to listen to commercial or Ser- bian folk music, but it doesn’t turn off those who enjoy the more expensive and well-decorated nightspots. Making Thankfully, the boat is big, a con- Partizan’s Bogdanović signs verted freight boat that has a good deal of open space on it. That doesn’t mean that you will always be able to get in, however. Šlep has become so popular a splash that if you arrive after midnight, you deal with Fenerbahce are going to have to wait in life for at least 20 or 30 minutes. Once allowed in, you will cross a Serbian basketball player Bogdan long bridge and enter the boat. The first among the section of the club has a makeshift ceil- Bogdanović has signed a four-year ing on it, to protect the crowd from bad weather. This is where the DJ and bar contract worth €3.5 million with are, and it is also where the majority of people hang out and dance. If you Turkey’s Fenerbahce. splavs want a table in this section, make a res- ervation. As you keep moving through more expensive ones cater to crowds Šlep you will get to the uncovered area urkish club Fener- players who wish to join the league. With its perfect that like to dress up and listen to Serbi- where you can stare into the night sky bahce signed a The players are usually US college an folk music. Others cater to much the and have a drink. The music is softer deal with 22-year- basketball players, but international location and very same kind of people, but prefer to play here and this area serves as a chill-out old Partizan players are also eligible. commercial house music and other area, somewhere to get away from the player Bogdan Sportando reported that diverse clientele, popular “radio-friendly” electronic din and converse. Bogdanović Bogdanović’s contract is broken into music. Then, you have places that are a Drink prices are decent - cheaper on July 8th, at two years and allegedly contains the it’s no wonder that bit more alternative. than in the upscale splavs on this side the proposal of option that the player may move to the Šlep fits into the third category, but of the river, like Sound or Freestyler, Fenerbahce’s coach, Željko Obradović NBA without cost after two seasons. it’s not a niche place that caters to un- and in the same range as what you Tof Serbia. Although it was planned that Šlep is drawing in derground music styles or subcultures. would expect to pay at Povetarac Bogdanović plays in the position of a Bogdanović would remain in Partizan Just about anyone can have fun here, or 20/44. There are plenty of drink guard and won the Euroleague Rising Belgrade, the club will be paid about the crowds. making it quite similar to the already options, but don’t expect complicated Stars Award this last season. €1.3 million to send its guard to Turkey. popular venue, Povetarac. cocktails or hard-to-find liquors to be Bogdanović, who was picked 27th in Phoenix still has the option to buy But, considering that Povertarac has on offer. the 2014 NBA Draft, was the draft pick out Bogdanović, but this is unlikely David GALIĆ done little to update its programme find and equally easy to return from, While people who listen to foreign The fact that Šlep bridges the gap of Phoenix Suns. to happen. Suns general manager in years and thanks to Šlep’s superior late at night, when you are trying to music will head over to Šlep for the between underground and main- The NBA Draft is an annual event in Ryan McDonough predicted that ne of the most popu- location, it’s no wonder that the latter catch the last bus or trolley home. “alternative” vibe, people who frequent stream riverboats draws a wide range which the thirty teams from the Na- Bogdanović would not come to Phoe- lar summer spots on seems to be picking part of the clien- On the side of the more upscale clubs won’t be put off of patrons, although most are on the tional Basketball Association can draft nix for one or two seasons. Bogdan Bogdanović is joining Turkey’s Fenerbahce. Photo by Beta the river already, Šlep tele that used to frequent Povetarac. riverbank, the club enjoys panoramic by the interior, either. The quality of younger side. If you are tired of dingy, opened last summer, Location is everything when it views of the city and the Kalemegdan service and the general atmosphere underground clubs, but don’t care for and is looking to cement comes to nightlife in Belgrade, and fortress. And while this splav is usually over the weekend also outshine those the uptight vibes that most upscale itselfO as one of the best places to cool Šlep has the ultimate location when grouped in with the other “alternative“ in most of the clubs that specialize in splavs offer, Šlep is the perfect in- off by the water this summer as well. it comes to river-centric fun. It is very places on the river, such as Povetarac featuring urban and alternative music between. Tadić joins When it comes to riverboats, or close to the Brankov Bridge, and and 20/44, the interior and general vibe styles. splavs, while there might be a lot of indeed only one club lies closer to the are a little more upscale, which is why That is why Šlep has become such a Šlep them, there is not much variety. The bridge than Šlep. This makes it easy to it attracts such a wide range of people. popular spot. It draws people who do Address: Savski kej Southampton, Dr. House Musicology Marković to festival brings sings the jazz and funk Liverpool blues stars Football player Dušan Tadić he newest sum- eteran British actor mer festival in the signed a deal to and comedian Belgrade calendar, Hugh Laurie, best the four-day Musicol- join English team known internation- ogy event features Southampton, ally for his role as some great names the misanthropic in contemporary while Liverpool media in the US TV jazz, funk and blues, including Nicola T Keziah Jones. Photo by Carlsberg Group/Flickr Vseries ‘House’, has also established a Conte, Mario Biondi, funk legend is in talks to sign parallel career as a blues musician in Keziah Jones and Internet sensations as melodies drawn from 1960s Italian recent years. Laurie will be performing Dirty Loops. Kicking off the event on film scores. Each night, before the inter- Serbian youth national football team with gold medals last year. Photo by Beta winger Lazar in Belgrade on July 14th with his group, July 24th will be Italian DJ, producer, national headliners, the audience will The Copper Bottom Band. Depending guitarist, and bandleader Conte, who is have the chance to hear bands from Marković from on the seats, tickets will cost between popular for creating an innovative style the region including MaraQYa and the €20 and €40, with VIP tickets available of acid jazz which incorporates bossa Vasil Hadžimanov Band. Tickets for Football youth defends Benfica. at €70. Hugh Laurie. Photo by Chris HE/Flickr nova and easy listening themes as well each night will cost about €15. European gold in Hungary idfielder Dušan Tadić signed a four-year con- Ronald Koeman, Southampton’s new club manager. tract with the UK club he European Championship that their clubs may not allow them Southampton for about Another English club, Liverpool, is Serbian youth for players under 19 will be leave. €10 million on July 8th. also trying to bring in a Serbian player held in Hungary from July “We are waiting to hear from the clubs MThis was the first signing of Southamp- this season. BBC reported that Liverpool football national 19th to 31st. officially. We qualified for the European ton’s new club manager, Ronald Koeman. is in “advanced talks” to conclude a deal Serbian national team Championship, were the winners, and I “It was very important to get this sign- with Portuguese Benfica for winger Lazar American metalcore Tcoach Veljko Paunović on July 8th pub- will not allow anyone to undervalue the ing done – not only for me, but for the rest Marković, who, according to the report, team aims to innovators hit Belgrade lished a draft list of 23 players that will be youth national team. I expect that the of the squad and for our fans. It’s fantastic will cost about €25 million. Two cutting-edge metalcore bands invited to represent the country, which won clubs will give us the players,” Paunović news,” he said. Serbia’s national team coach, Ljubinko from the US will be playing Dom Om- win another the gold last year in Lithuania. The final list told the newspaper Sportski Žurnal on “We have lost some good players Drulović, believes the move could put Travel photos on Open-air concerts ladine on July 20th. The headliners are of 18 players will be done by July 16th. July 8th. but we want to continue the ambition Marković at the top of European football. Violin maestro leads show at train station Dark French outside Dom Omladine the quirky and experimental I Wrestled gold at the Among the players expected to join According to the schedule, the na- and philosophy of the club. He’s a great “Going to a very strong league will help Serbian jazz supergroup ‘Art in Open Spaces’, a group exhibition sounds at Inex Film Throughout July, Dom Omladine will A Bear Once, whose female front- the team are Andrija Živković and Danilo tional team will play Ukraine on July 19th, player. I know him very well from Hol- him even more to become a major player Serbia-born jazz violin player Jožef of photographs taken while travelling French ‘sludge metal’ pioneers Celeste be organising small, free concerts on woman veers from harsh, screamed UEFA European Pantić from Belgrade’s Partizan, Tot- Germany on July 22nd and Bulgaria on land, where he had a great season last worldwide. He’s 20 years old and has Nadj plays at the Barutana club on through Serbia, open on July 15th at will send chills down Belgraders’ spines Milan Mladenović Plateau, the space vocals to more melodic singing. The tenham’s Miloš Veljković, Basel’s Veljko July 25th. year,” Koeman added, referring to the a long time to play,” he said. “Marković July 12th, backed by a ‘supergroup’ of the main train station in Belgrade. The as they bring their slow and eerie outside the venue which was named second band on the bill is Texas in July, Under-19 Simić and Genk’s Sergej Milinković Savić. The team won the gold at last year’s new player. could prove to become a very important great Serbian jazz players, with Vasil photographs will be for sale and all the sound to Inex Film on July 24th. As after the deceased singer of legendary and they will be supported by German It is still uncertain whether Živković U19 European Championship in Lithu- Tadić played for Groningen before player in Europe,” Drulović added. Hadžimanov on keyboards, Vladimir proceeds will go to charity. Bands like always with shows at this venue, there Serbian rock group Ekaterina Velika. On start-ups Vitja, who play a very melodic and Pantić from Partizan and Milinković ania, after defeating France 1:0. This was signing for Twente, and he has a reputa- Marković helped Benfica win the Por- Samardžić on bass and Branko Popović Grubb and Kofer will also play at the are no tickets for sale but donations will July 11th, local band Nemesis will play brand of hardcore-infused modern Championship. Savić from Genk will be able to join the Serbia’s first-ever title in a UEFA competi- tion as a player who can create as well as tuguese title after moving from Partizan on drums. Tickets for the event cost €5. launch event. be accepted at the door. live on the street. metal. Tickets will cost €18 at the door. team, as media reports have speculated tion. score goals. Belgrade in the summer of 2013. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 11 - Thursday, July 24, 2014 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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