ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 Krunić: The Serbian Inside guide to [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 artist in search of the Balkans’ BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 conversation secret wonders

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Issue No. 230 Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS

Public NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: sector party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. appointments page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W ‘generally June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, politicised’ page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the A sacked former minister’s After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party appointment as head of the E Serbian Security Agency raises eyebrows, while concerns over Friday • June 13 2008 alleged cronyism in the public THIS ISSUE OF

sector resurface. Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ

he government’s decision to "Is Bratislav Gasić competent for this? appoint Bratislav Gasić, the I am absolutely sure he is," Vučić, who former defence minister who is head of the senior coalition govern- Twas sacked for making a sex- ment party, the Serbian Progressive ist gaffe, as director of the Serbian Secu- Party, SNS, said. He added that Gasić rity Agency, BIA, has surprised many in has many qualities, calling him "a man Serbia. who knows everything in the world of While the BIA directorship is consid- defence and security". ered a political position, and appoint- Gasić, a senior SNS party official, is ments are usually decided by the cabi- best known for making a sexist insult net, there is concern that some senior to a journalist when he said "I love fe- public and state-owned company po- male journalists who get down on their sitions should be reclassified as non- knees easily" to reporter Zlatija Labović political and, therefore, be subject to from TV B92, who had knelt down to stricter application criteria. get out of the way of her cameraman at President and former Prime Minister a press event in January 2016. Aleksandar Vučić gave Gasić his full backing when confirming the appoint- ment at a press conference last week. Continued on pages 2 and 3

Bratislav Gasić is the new director of the Serbian Security Agency, BIA. Photo: Beta

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Public sector appointments ‘generally politicised’

Aleksinac, There are no candidates have to criteria for the submit sev- eral docu- selection of ments, including ministers but they school diplo- are appointed ma certificates, a National Employ- ment Service document confirming by the Serbian how long a candidate has been un- employed (if they are out of work), Parliament which and a CV with address and contact telephone number. is [therefore] "Incomplete and late applications responsible for will not be considered," the advert continues. them. The same BIRN asked the Serbian Govern- ment Office for a response on reclas- thing applies to sifying political posts and about re- cent acting appointments but didn’t appointments receive a reply by the time of publica- by government tion. Meanwhile, many remain con- [cabinet] but cerned that even though Serbia is a candidate for EU membership, nepo- there is no tism and cronyism remains an issue control of these within the public sector. "We have the general politicisation of the public sector and the job mar- institutions," ket. I know it because of my students… often they don’t get a job unless they have political connections. It’s easy Jelena Jerinić, to say that we should adopt new laws Associate professor but our bigger issue is the usage of of Belgrade those laws as they are often ‘adapted’, which leads to the derogation of de- University’s Law mocracy," Jerinić warned. Milorad Grčić graduted in economics from the private Fabus University in 2012. However, the Photo: Beta Faculty faculty refused to show his thesis to Serbian journalists.

Senior SNS official Zoran Babić was appointed Acting Director of Koridori Srbije on May 4th. Photo: Beta

he former co-minister of on a computer; analytical reasoning alization of the public sector and that company Elektroprivreda Srbije on police and lawyer, Božo skills, logical reasoning and organisa- promise has not been fulfilled by the Conditions March 15th, 2016. Prelević, voiced the wide- tional skills - indirectly, through stand- ruling parties," Nenadić said. for political He owned a café and a shop selling ly-held belief among ex- ardised tests – and verbal communica- "Conditions for political appoint- spit-roast meat to order after graduat- perts and government crit- tion skills," the job ad read. ments are often less strict than for regu- appointments are ing in economics from the private Fa- icsT that Gasić would be simply Vučić’s lar [civil] servants and it is not always bus University in 2012. However, the puppet in the intelligence service head- PUBLIC INTEREST logical." often less strict faculty refused to show Grčić’s thesis to quarters, when he told the Beta news ‘BETRAYED’ Parliament did adopt the Law on Serbian journalists. agency last week that Gasić will be just Public Companies which stipulates that then for regular Grčić, who is also head of the local "a telephone operator in the BIA". Nemanja Nenadić from the watch- directors of agencies and state-owned SNS board in Obrenovac, a small town Economics graduate Gasić was de- dog Transparency Serbia told BIRN companies must be selected via public [civil] servants near Belgrade, demonstrated his loy- fence minister from 2014 to 2016. He that he believes that many state roles – competitions effective March 2017. alty to Vučić in a speech given on the had no prior defence and security ex- including the BIA directorship – should Since February, the government has and it is not evening of the April 2nd presidential perience, having previously served as be reclassified to ensure competitive organised competitions for 37 public always logical." election. mayor of Kruševac, a city in central Ser- selection processes are in place and companies. However, no one was se- "Tonight, I ask all of you to applaud bia. Before that, he owned companies minimum education standards agreed lected during these competitions. Aleksandar Vučić. Citizens of Obreno- that sold tea and coffee. to ensure the most qualified candidate In a move that bypassed legal re- Nemanja Nenadić, vac today thanked the new president By comparison, candidates for jun- is chosen. quirements for competitive application for all he has done for us in recent ior posts in the public sector need to "I don’t even think that the director of processes, the government did, howev- Transparency Serbia years… I’m sure we will be more grateful go through a competitive application the BIA should be a political post and I er, appoint acting directors in three big to the new president, Mr Vučić, every process, including passing tests, sitting think that this person should be chosen public companies. month," Grčić said. interviews and meeting minimum edu- by expertise," Nenadić said, comparing Acting directors are appointed di- cation requirements. this post with the director of the Ser- rectly by the cabinet to posts for a ‘NO OVERSIGHT According to a job ad published on bian police, who must be elected via a 12-month period. Candidates do not words and for his public speaking in OF APPOINTMENTS’ the Serbian National Employment public competition. have to fulfil all the criteria set down in general, and is now one of the most fre- Service website, for junior equipment "It would be in the public interest if a public competition, prompting con- quently mocked politicians on social Jelena Jerinić, an associate profes- and technical support roles within the people holding high state posts have at cerns that the government is appoint- networking sites. sor of Belgrade University’s Law Fac- Ministry for Local Government, candi- least minimum education and experi- ing people – often prominent coalition According to his CV, published on the ulty, told BIRN Serbia lacks sufficient dates are required to have completed ence," Nenadić added. party members – to acting roles to cir- fact-checking web portal Istinomer, he’s oversight when it comes to public higher education in humanities or so- The president is responsible for di- cumvent, if not actually break, the law. a mechanical engineer without any ex- sector appointments. Without strict cial science with a minimum of 240 rectly appointing heads of the Military Acting directors have been appoint- perience in infrastructure work. controls over appointments, govern- ECTS points, master academic studies, Security Agency and the Military Intel- ed at the Serbian Lottery, the public Similarly, Simonida Kažić, a journal- ments are free to appoint party mem- specialist academic studies, specialist ligence Agency. highways company Koridori Srbije and ist from Pink television, was directly bers to high-level state roles. professional studies or studies lasting Nenadić underlined that the real own- the coal mining firm Resavica. appointed by cabinet as Acting Direc- "There are no criteria for the selec- at least four years or specialised stud- ers of the public institutions – citizens There are no deadlines for the other tor of the State Lottery on May 23rd. tion of ministers but they are appoint- ies at university. – don’t have any influence over the se- 34 appointments and no announce- Criteria Kažić didn’t have to fulfil, as an ed by the Serbian Parliament which is They must also hold a category B lection of the management, adding that ments have been made as to progress acting director, included having sub- [therefore] responsible for them. The driver’s licence and have computer Vučić’s ruling Progressives have failed to in the selection process. stantial and senior experience in the same thing applies to appointments skills. fulfil one of their main election promises Senior SNS official Zoran Babić was company’s core business – in this case by government [cabinet] but there is no "In the selection process [competen- to professionalise state management. appointed Acting Director of Kori- lotteries. control of these institutions," she said. cies] are checked: computer skills (MS "Citizens have been betrayed be- dori Srbije on May 4th. He is often lam- Milorad Grčić was appointed Acting In another job ad for a hospital Office, the internet) by practical work cause they were promised profession- pooned for wrongly pronouncing Director of the Serbian public energy cleaning job in the southern city of 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Getting The many lives of around Zemun's old synagogue The old Zemun during Synagogue – once home to downtown a rock club and now a traditional works Serbian restaurant – will With construction work under way be returned in the city centre, traffic is being to the Jewish redirected. Belgrade Insight shows Community you how to get where you’re going. of Zemun next

Mirjana NARANDŽIĆ During the first stage of the works - year. May 20th to July 9th – public transport onstruction work on Mije routes will also be changed. Kovačevića street, which is Trams 3 and 12 will operate a shorter Siri SOLLIE part of a larger construction route, terminating at Tašmajdan in- Cproject that includes Ruzvelto- stead of the Omladinski stadium. Tram ew traces are left of the Jew- va street, Slavija square and Oslobođenje 3 will be temporarily called 3L and will ish synagogues that were Boulevard, began on May 20th. stop at Savski square - Resavska street present in Belgrade before The works at Mije Kovačevića and before terminating at Tašmajdan - the outbreak of World War II. Ruzveltova will include replacing dam- Kneževac. Tram 12, temporarily 12L, There is only one operat- aged road and water drainage systems, will stop at Tašmajdan - Banovo Brdo. ingF synagogue in Belgrade today; the improving electric contact lines and The 25, 25P, 27, 32 and 74 bus routes Sukat Šalom Synagogue - or Belgrade tram tracks, updating traffic signals and will continue to operate in both direc- Synagogue – on Maršala Birjuzova street. the construction of a cycle path. tions. However, on the section from After the work is completed, city councillors promise the route will become a modern boulevard with faster Photo: Beta The other, in the Zemun neighbourhood tram services and less traffic congestion. After the work is completed, city coun- Bogoslovija roundabout to the Čarlija of the city, is currently home to a kafana, cillors promise the route will become a Čaplina-Ruzveltova intersection the During this first stage of the work, works include updating and modernis- The 31 bus route will go via a traditional Serbian restaurant. modern Boulevard with faster tram ser- route will be changed to: Bogoslovija new bus and tram stops will be built as ing the tram tracks and setting up mod- Oslobođenje Boulevard, Nemanjina Before the war broke out, there were vices and less traffic congestion. roundabout - Dragoslava Srejovića follows: ern tram rails. and Kneza Miloša street. four synagogues in Belgrade. Today, how- Luka Petrović, the Acting Secretary street - Mitropolita Petra street - Čarlija 1) At Čarlija Čaplina street for buses The Slavija and Oslobođenje Boule- Two temporary bus routes will be ever, traces of the Jewish population and The Zemun Synagouge was home to a rock and live music club during the 60s. Photos: Goran Boroja for Belgrade, told city information Čaplina street, before continuing on the and trams heading to Mitropolita Petra vard works will also be carried out in four introduced, the 9N will operate from culture are scarce, as more than 95 per website Beoinfo that the works on Mije regular routing. street, phases. The first phase will entail updat- Banjica to Slavija and the 9L will oper- cent of the Serbian Jewish population ei- ish synagogues located in Zemun in famous writer David Albahari often dj- Instead, she said, they managed Kovačevića street will be carried out in The 66 bus route - in both direc- 2) At Dragoslava Srejovića street for ing the road crossings, traffic routing will ate from Novi Beograd to Slavija. In Ma- ther perished or fled Serbia during the war. A house of prayer close proximity to one another – one ed in the club. to agree a deal with the municipality four phases, in order to minimise dis- tions from the intersection of Veljka buses travelling to Mirijevo, after Bo- remain the same during this stage. kenzijeva and Kraja Milana, the trams The Zemun Synagogue is at 5 Rabina serving the Sephardic community The sale was subject to an agree- that the building would be returned ruption. The schedule is as follows: Dugoševića street and Severni Boule- goslovija roundabout, in the direction The second and third phases will be will operate normally. Alkalaja street, not far from the centre until 1962, the and located in Dubrovačka street, ment that the synagogue would serve to them once the Sač restaurant 1) From the roundabout at Omladin- vard to the intersection of Ruzveltova of Mitropolita Petra street; focused on Oslobođenje Boulevard. In The 33 and 48 bus routes from of Zemun. The street is named after the whilst the other one, still standing to- as a cultural centre. That understand- lease expired with the help of the ski stadium to Čarlija Čaplina street street and Sveti Nikola street - will 3) At Mije Kovačevića street for buses the second stage, works will be carried Kneginje Zorke street to the city cen- Sephardic rabbi, Judah Alkalai, who synagogue day, belonged to the Ashkenazi com- ing came to an end after Vojislav Šešelj Serbian Agency for Restitution in 2) From Čarlija Čaplina street to Sveti operate the following route: Veljka and trams heading to Višnjička street, out on the left side with traffic moved tre will operate via Makenzijeva lived and worked in Zemun where he munity. became president of the Zemun mu- May 2016. Nikola street Dugoševića street, Svetog Nikole street, after Bogoslovija roundabout temporarily to the right side of the road street. However, buses going in the op- became a rabbi in the 1820s. He is widely was then sold to The Sephardic synagogue, found- nicipality in 1996. The agency is in charge of property 3) From 27. Marta street to Kralja Ruzveltova street, before continuing Construction work at Slavija and and vice versa during the third stage. posite direction will be rerouted via regarded as one of the most influential ed by Rabbi Alkalaja, was located in According to Nedeljnik magazine, restitution and compensation claims, Aleksandra Boulevard with the line’s regular route. Oslobođenje Boulevard, will begin in The fourth and final phase will focus Njegoševa, Svetozara Markovića and pioneers of modern Zionism. the Zemun local Dubrovačka street, 40 metres from the Šešelj firmly believed that as the syna- and the synagogue was returned ac- 4) From Sveti Nikola street to 27. Mar- The 65 bus route will not change its just under a month after the beginning on Slavija and public transport routes Nemanjina street. Built in 1850, the Zemun Synagogue remaining Zemun Synagogue. It was gogue was the property of the local cording to the Serbian Law on Restitu- ta street route. of works at Mije Kovačevića. These will again be altered. is the oldest, while construction of the municipality by the almost completely destroyed during government, the municipality should tion of Property to Churches and Reli- Sukat Šalom Synagogue was only com- allied bombing choose how it was used. gious Communities. pleted in 1929. Jewish Community The Zemun municipality eventually As a consequence, the municipality Beherano said that other buildings A house of prayer until 1962, the syna- demolished what was left of the build- began leasing the former synagogue to in the area, including a Jewish school gogue was then sold to the Zemun local of Zemun, JOZ. ing in 1957. private catering companies. in the centre of Zemun, were also once municipality by the Jewish Community While it is not clear exactly why the Ria Beherano, JOZ secretary, told BIRN the property of JOZ but were also sold ORDER DELIVERY TO of Zemun, JOZ. Since the sale, the syna- Since the sale, the building was demolished, some aca- that the organisation plans to ensure the to the Zemun municipality in the after- Find your copy of YOUR DOOR gogue has functioned as a cultural cen- demic studies suggest that, as the Jew- synagogue once again opens a cultural math of the war. +381 11 4030 303 synagogue [email protected] tre, rock club and restaurant. ish population had declined to such centre that will organise various events. She said the synagogue was re- Belgrade Insight here: Today, it is a kafana that goes by the a degree, the remaining synagogue As the scheduled take over date is still turned on the understanding that JOZ www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight name Sač - referring to a large metal or has functioned as in Rabina Alkalaja street – the Zemun one year away, Beherano said that no would not lodge any further property ceramic lid which are used while cook- Synagogue - was considered sufficient concrete plans have yet been agreed. claims. ing or baking over live coals or wood. a cultural centre, to meet the needs of those Jews who JOZ began fundraising in 2005 in or- If everything goes according to the According to one of the restaurant's stayed in Zemun after the war. der to buy the property back from the plan, Sač will be operating here until waiters, the owners called the restaurant rock club and Prior to March this year, when the Zemun municipality. However, accord- the building is in 2018 once again a cul- MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL Sač as this is the method they use to pre- Jewish Community of Zemun celebrat- ing to Beherano, they weren't able to tural centre; but this time in the hands Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla pare the food. The ethno-restaurant has restaurant. ed the Purim holiday, no prayers had raise enough cash. of JOZ. Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temišvarska 19 Pupina 10v been operating here since 2005. been held at the Zemun Synagogue HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A Green umbrellas bearing the Monte- since it was sold to the Zemun munici- Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA negrin Nikšićko Pivo beer brand dot the However, Stanišić noted they have pality. MIXER HOUSE SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 outdoor space of the former synagogue, been leasing the site for 12 years now Newspaper articles published at the Address: Karađorđeva 46 HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Address: Smetanina 12 as the aroma of barbequed food hangs in and that 14 people are currently living time raised questions over whether Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac TOURIST ORGANISATION OF the air. off the restaurant's earnings. the sale was forced, as the building was Address: Skadarska 34 RADISSON BLU OLD However, the contract between the Still, he remains philosophical, say- apparently sold way below market CAFE SNEŽANA SERBIA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE restaurant owners and the local munici- ing: "We will see what we will do next." price. In a story published by the daily Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Čika Ljubina 8 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 pality will end in September 2018. JOZ Two Jewish communities were ac- Politika, Aca Singer, then president of Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade told BIRN the synagogue will once again tive in Zemun before World War II, the the Jewish Communities Union of Yu- KOLARAC NATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR DANCE be under its ownership from that date. Sephardic and Ashkenazi communi- goslavia, claimed the sale was a result Address: Studentski trg 5 BISTRO BAR FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarčeva 7 Skadarska 32 Petar Stanišić, the owner of Sač, told ties. According to historical sources, be- of pressure from the then Belgrade Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 Address: Kolarčeva 3 Address: Aerodrom pult +381 62 350 002 BIRN they will respect the decision, un- tween 500 and 600 Jews were recorded mayor, Branko Pešić. [email protected] HOTEL EXCELSIOR derlining they have always had very as living in Zemun before the war. It was then home to a rock and live Address: Kneza Miloša 5 SKVER 44 RESTAURANT BIZU FLY FLY TRAVEL CREATING YOUR MEMORIES Address: Požeška 44a Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 Address: Knez Mihailova 4 good relations with JOZ, which is based Before the allied bombing of Bel- music club during the 60s. According on the same street. grade in 1944, there were two Jew- to news portal Zemunske Novine, the 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS Belgrade mulls tax cuts for Cyrillic ads

Serbian, we believe that protecting Cy- The City of rillic in a time of globalisation and the internet is one of our most important Belgrade is tasks," Vesić announced on Wednesday as reported by the Beta news agency. considering Last Wednesday was also the Day of Slavic Writing and Culture, which is tax cuts for dedicated to two Orthodox Christian saints from the 9th Century, Cyril and companies whose Methodius. The pair were brothers, advertisements Byzantine Christian theologians and missionaries among the Slavic peoples. use the Cyrillic Cyril and Methodius are credited with devising the Glagolitic alphabet, the first alphabet used to transcribe alphabet. Belgrade City Manager Goran Vesić. Photo: Beta Old Church Slavonic, while their pupils later devised the Cyrillic alphabet, and ministries of culture and education to taxes for papers that are printed in Cy- Critics at the time said that the alpha- Filip RUDIĆ named it after their teacher. mark the holiday in schools by study- rillic. Needless to say, both Politika and bet has nothing to do with the content Vesić said that the Day of Slavic Writ- ing the work of Cyril and Methodius." Večernje Novosti use Cyrillic. of newspapers. Prominent columnist elgrade City Manager Goran ing and Culture is a celebration for all The controversial idea of giving tax The initiative was supported by and writer, Svetislav Basara, described Vesić confirmed he is consider- Slavic peoples, since the "Greek broth- benefits to those who use the Cyrillic the Journalists’ Association of Serbia, those who advocated the tax break as Bing giving tax cuts for companies ers from Thessaloniki, Cyril and Metho- alphabet, which is considered more whose president at the time, Ljiljana Serbian patriots, but noted they had that advertise using the Serbian Cyrillic dius, spread literacy and Christianity traditionally Serbian in some circles, is Smajlović, was editor-in-chief of Poli- skilfully merged "national and personal alphabet. among the Slavs". not new. tika. One arguments for the proposal interests" to benefit themselves. "In this way we would give additional While the Day of Slavic Writing is not In 2015, Serbian newspapers Poli- was that newspapers writing in Cyrillic In the end, the campaign failed, as incentive to save the Cyrillic alphabet. yet an official holiday in Serbia, he said: tika and Večernje Novosti campaigned did not give in to tabloid journalism and Serbian politicians did not take any ac- Although the Latin alphabet is no less "Belgrade has been in talks with the for a law that would entirely eliminate this hurt their income. tion.

The bicycling tour from Serbia to Norway is estimated to cover 1,600 kilometres, starting in Prokuplje (pictured). Photo: Facebook/Bicyckling to Freedom Vučić announces Serbs cycle to Norway German investment deal Vučić, according to the Beta report, The German said the Serbian government sup- ported the 2012 opening of Continen- Continental tal’s car parts factory in Subotica, also to honour WWII POWs in the north of Serbia, to the tune of Corporation is three million euros. However, the Serbian public are started from the southern town of In order to build defences in Nor- Norwegian road workers reportedly knows much about the history of rela- to open a new aware that Vučić has claimed high Two Serbs are th Prokuplje, where they live, on May 30 . way against Allied forces attacks, the became restless and anxious at the tions between Norway and Serbia. development salaries and employment increases cycling to Norway Yugoslav partisan fighters were used Germans brought in Yugoslav political sight of starved and weakened Yugo- They have still not reached their tar- before, and some of these claims ap- as slave labour and many died in Nazi prisoners and prisoners of war — in ad- slavs that they worked with. get budget of 6,000 euros, but Kristina centre in Serbia pear to have been too good to be true. in tribute to prisoner of war camps. Norwegians, dition to prisoners of other nationali- While the road over the Korgfjellet said that a generous donation from a During the campaign for the April however, helped escapees cross into ties — to work as forced labour on infra- mountain was seen as a key route by woman living abroad made their creating 500 jobs, 2nd presidential elections, Vučić, then the Yugoslav Sweden. structure projects. the Nazis, the Yugoslav slave workers awareness-raising trip possible. prime minister, claimed that 130,000 Around 4,200 Yugoslav prisoners, "The number of victims would proba- called it 'The Blood Road' because of Other than individuals, support says the Serbian new jobs were created in Serbia un- prisoners of mostly Serbs, were brought to the coun- bly be much higher if it had not been for the harsh work and living conditions. came from the municipality of Proku- der his government. However, ac- try in total, and more than half of them the help and support prisoners got from In 2013, Nazi hunter Efraim Zuroff plje and an association of Serbs living president. cording to the National Employment war who were (2,360) died. The death rate was highest Norwegian civilians," the Biking for Free- singled out several groups of war crimi- in Norway. Agency, the true number is around in camps in the north, where more than dom group notes on the Facebook page nals that he thought should be sought, "We got help from the Students' Par- Filip RUDIĆ 40,000. interned there in 1,900 were killed. they set up to promote the campaign. including soldiers who served in north- liament of Hemnes municipality, as Critics of Vučić noted that the actu- Nazi camps. There were a total of 31 camps in the In the camps, prisoners were treat- ern Norway and inflicted "cruel abuse" well as the Friendship Association Nor- erbian President Aleksandar al increase in employment was most- area between Bergen in the south and ed with extreme cruelty, many were on Serbian prisoners. way - Western Balkans," the group lists Vučić has announced new ly due to a change in methodology, Hammerfest in the north of Norway. stabbed with bayonets and tortured in The ceremony to mark the anni- on their Facebook page. investments in the country as the statistics bureau began count- Filip RUDIĆ "I personally know two men various ways by the guards. versary will take place on Korgfjellet Meanwhile, Serbs in Norway are also Sby the automotive manufac- ing people who worked for an hour a whose grandfathers were interned," The Yugoslavs were fed starvation ra- mountain, located exactly between marking this anniversary. Thanks to turing and design firm, German Conti- week as employed. wo friends, Kristina Stamenković said. tions, lacked clothing and were forced Hemnes and Vefsn, two bordering mu- the Association of Serbs and Friends nental Corporation. "Serbia is no longer a place for low- Stamenković and Jugo- Stamenković and Stošić say they also to do hard labour, including building nicipalities in the central Norwegian of Serbia in Bergen, a small memorial Vučić promised the company cost production, although even that slav Stošić, are cycling want to honour those Norwegians who roads. district of Helgeland. plaque dedicated to the Yugoslav slave would hire 500 engineers on an av- is better than not having a job. Serbia from Serbia to Norway to treated the prisoners with humanity. Asked about how people react to workers will be placed in the courtyard erage monthly salary of 2,300 euros is becoming an attractive place for in- mark the 75th anniversary The two will be accompanied on 'THE BLOOD ROAD' their trip, Kristina says the initial reac- of the Russian Orthodox Church in Ber- when the firm opens the develop- vestment," Vučić said. ofT the Nazi occupation of Serbia and their 1,600 kilometre trip by their tion is shock and disbelief. gen on June 17th in the presence of the ment centre in the northern city of He said that Continental’s invest- st the deportation of Yugoslav prisoners friend, Nenad Gačeša, who will travel At the time, the Nazis' demand for sup- "After that, they offer support. -Al mayor of Bergen, Marte Mjøs Persen, Novi Sad on July 1 . ment is the "cherry on the cake" af- Vučić said on April 2nd that Continental’s investment is the “cherry on the cake” after many Photo: Beta to camps in Norway. by car. plies for their troops and the transport of most everybody is astonished at first, the Norwegian embassy said. "This is something that Serbia did ter many years of work and difficult years of work and difficult negotiations. "Our main goal is to pay homage to Their plan is to arrive in Norway in raw materials in northern Norway could and many want to offer support," she "I have stayed in Norway for several not have, it’s like a space shuttle, and I negotiations, and that it was the best our ancestors who were in those camps, time for an official ceremony on June not be met due to poor rail networks said. months on more than one occasion, we am grateful to my friends from Conti- German investment project in Ser- Continental is said to have invested "This is the new league of invest- says it employs over 227,000 people to the Serbian-Norwegian friendship, 23rd that will mark 75 years since the and road conditions, according to the Other than paying tribute to their have friends there, so we will also use nental," Vučić said on Sunday, accord- bia. several million euros in its develop- ments in Serbia," Vučić said. in 56 countries. and to raise awareness about anti-fas- Yugoslav prisoners arrived in Lager Ko- Norwegian embassy in Belgrade. The ancestors, Kristina and Jugoslav have the jubilee to visit them," Kristina con- ing to a Beta news agency report. He According to him, the number of ment centre in Novi Sad. The plan is Continental is a transport techno- The company also announced it cism," Stamenković told BIRN. rgen, in central Norway, and Lager Osen idea was to extend the roads and rail- friends in Norway. Kristina, whose sis- cludes, adding that she and Jugoslav added that Continental already em- people employed by German com- to hire 100 people by the end of 2017, logical developer. It was established will begin working with universities in The pair have named the awareness- in the north - two death camps in which ways with the use of mass forced labour, ter lives in the country, is a Norwegian wanted a deeper reason to travel there ploys 1,030 people in Serbia through panies in Serbia rose from 18,000 to and 400 more over the course of the in 1871, and in 2016 it earned 40.5 bil- Novi Sad in order to help develop its raising trip Biking to Freedom. They 646 Yugoslav prisoners lost their lives. mainly from ex-Yugoslav countries. language professor in Prokuplje and than to just go on an adventure. various connected companies. 33,000 under his government. next two years. lion euros from sales. The company business model. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 9 REGION FACES COMMENT Krunić: The Serbian Trump’s presidency keeps US Balkan policy unchanged artist in search of

new policies, but at least it seems unlikely conversation While many to abandon previous one. expected US Furthermore, the willingness to be blunter than its European counterparts NOVI SAD – EUROPEAN foreign policy to and also to use sticks when the EU is lim- Belgrade-born CAPITAL OF CULTURE ited, such as against Milorad Dodik, can undergo some help. [The US Treasury has sanctioned painter Slavko Krunić, who lives and works in Novi President of Republika Srpska, Milorad Sad, the capital of the northern prov- U-turns under Dodik, for obstructing Dayton Agreement Krunić describes ince of Vojvodina province, however in January.] mentions that Novi Sad provides for Trump, his lack Mostly, the effect of US mediation and his portraits as better collaboration with the local and of engagement pressure in Albania and Macedonia re- international art scene. veals the weakness of the EU. ‘satiriconography’ The European Capital of Cul- in international Considering the prominent role of the ture is selected by the European Un- EU in the region, the high-level visits to but insists his ion, which will organise a series of cul- affairs – with a Albania and Macedonia, it should have tural events with a strong European been the EU and not a professional diplo- caricature-style in flavour over one calendar year. few exceptions mat form a distant US to resolve the crisis. Together with Novi Sad, the Roma- While it is easy to mock Trump and the no way mocks his nian city of Timișoara and the Greek – seems to mean US and take a moral high ground, espe- city Elefsina, have been selected as cially after the French presidential elec- subjects. European Capitals of Culture during Washington’s role tions, the leverage of the EU has reached 2021. a low point in the Western Balkans. Serbian artists have struggled to in the Balkans Thus, the real lesson of recent US poli- showcase their works abroad and also is tantamount cy in the Balkans is for the EU: How to be- Siri SOLLIE visit important art cities in Europe, come relevant again and make the recent mainly due to visa restrictions that to "leading from breakthroughs sustainable? nce you have examined were imposed on Serbs in the after- Without a renewed EU perspective, the Slavko Krunić’s works math of the wars of the 1990s. behind". incoming Macedonia government will closely, they will be eas- Krunić, however, says that thanks have a hard time to keep on track and ily recognisable to the to the internet artists can at least show without further EU involvement in Alba- attentive observer. His their works internationally and take Florian BIEBER nia the deal will sooner or later disinte- workO often portrays ordinary people in part in international competitions. He grate again. the midst of natural scenery or an un- also mentions that online marketing number of articles also were Getting the reforms going again and defined city skyscape. makes it easier to sell work abroad. published by people con- moving to a positive dynamic will re- Krunić is one of the Serbian artists He notes that one of the biggest hin- Hoyt Brian Yee, Deputy Assistant Secretary for European and Eurasian Affairs, is responsible for US relations with the Photo: Beta sidering themselves Balkan countries of Central Europe and South Central Europe. quire a renewed US-EU engagement and currently on show at the RTS Gallery as drances for Serbian artists working Aexperts, who argued for a re- greater coordination between the two, ir- part of the Mediala: Then and Now exhi- today is bureaucracy, which makes it drawing of boundaries, such as Timothy Furthermore, he also helped broker an ma administration, largely described as the erosion of the regions Euro-Atlantic respective of president Trump. bition. difficult to export artworks. He would Less in Foreign Affairs and John Schindler agreement in Albania where the opposi- "leading from behind", meaning support- integration has been crucial in triggering Florian Bieber is professor for South- Mediala was an avant-gardist group like to see an open art market on a par writing for Jared Kushners old newspa- tion Democratic Party had threatened to ing EU policy in the region and prevent- recent US engagement. east European History and Politics at the of painters active in the 1950s and with international standards. per, the Observer. boycott the upcoming elections. ing crises and supporting the overall re- While the president has an ambigu- University of Graz and Coordinator of the 1960s and included the likes of paint- Temporarily staying on the Monte- Recent weeks seem to have put these Thus, even with a president of unclear form effort. ous role with Russia, to be put it mildly, Balkans in Europe Policy Advisory Group ers Leonid Šejka and Olja Ivanjicki. It is negrin coast to attend an annual inter- initial worries to rest. commitment to NATO, the Euro-Atlantic The hope of some in the region that the Congress and the State Department have (BiEPAG). Florian Bieber was part of a considered one of the most significant national art symposium at Rafailovici, First, the Senate backed Montenegrin Alliance, even after his visit to Brussels, Trump administration would shift policy been clearly seeing Russian intervention BiEPAG group visiting the USA recently art movements of the Serbian art scene. in which he has participated for the NATO membership 97 to 2, a clear and the US has been more effective than the was never more than a pipe-dream. as a threat. to discuss Balkan policy in Congress, the Šejka, who was both an architect and last five years, Krunić says his work is overwhelming majority, despite consid- EU. Trump is clearly not interested in for- In particular the Russian involvement State Department, as well as the Atlantic painter, is widely regarded as one of Yu- currently focused on helping make erable (and still murky) efforts by Russia Despite a series of high-level visits to eign policy and when he is, it is limited to in Montenegro, unclear as it is, has drawn Council and Freedom House. goslavia’s most original and renowned "some 'secondary' values immortal, to derail the process. Macedonia, including Donald Tusk, Fed- larger questions of direct importance for US attention, as has the vocal Russian artists, while Ivanjicki is known for her [such as] sensuality, seductiveness Afterwards in rapid succession, the erica Mogherini and Johannes Hahn, the US. support for the outgoing Macedonian Florian Bieber is professor for South- experiments with various art forms in- and humanity". Deputy Assistant Secretary of State Hoyt none of these efforts resulted in any reso- Disinterest, if in doubt supports the sta- government led by Nikola Gruevski. east European History and Politics at the cluding painting, sculpture and poetry. "I am also organising a summer ex- Yee visited the Balkans and made rapid lution of the crisis and President Ivanov tus quo and the work of the professionals. Of course, the status quo also does University of Graz and Coordinator of the The exhibition showcases the work hibition of Serbian artists in Belgium, progress. even refused to meet enlargement com- The appointment of the missing links in not mean that the US administration Balkans in Europe Policy Advisory Group of Mediala artists, as well as contempo- near to Bruges, which will open on His visit was crucial in "convincing" missioner Hahn. the State Department between the Sec- is likely to find renewed energy to help (BiEPAG). rary artists like Krunić whose work has June 30th." Macedonian President Ivanov to give So has the US regained its clout and di- retary of State and the professional diplo- tackle the problem of stabilitocracy been influenced by the group. The name of the exhibition is Serbia opposition leader and representative of rection? mats is unlikely to lead to a strategic shift in the region and the rise of autocratic The opinions expressed in the com- Painting has been a full-time occu- meets Belgium and is a collaboration the parliamentary majority a mandate The recent successes are largely sug- for the Balkan policy. strong men. ments section are those of the authors only pation for Belgrade-born Krunić since "People say that every picture is in fact a self-portrait," Krunić tells. Photo: With the courtesy of Slavko Krunić between the Sabine Van Paemel art in forming a government after months of gest that US policy in the Balkans will The role of Russia in the region as a The current administration lacks the and do not necessarily reflect the views of graduating from Belgrade University’s gallery in Leke Diksmuide and the dithering. continue as it has been under the Oba- power that opportunistically supports interested and endurance to pursue any BIRN. Faculty of Fine Arts in 2002 - a luxury of his works. His goal, he says, is to am- tion and focus on portraying ordinary of renovation and extension works at Art Gallery Kragujevac, which will en- many artists are not in a position to en- plify his works live independently of people in an undefined era. the Ušće site. compass various artistic forms such joy. him. For himself, Krunić says he first be- Krunić believes the closure has been as painting, sculptor and ceramics. He describes his work as ‘satiriconog- While portraits are his main focus, gan to feel successful when his paint- a severe blow to the local art scene and Krunić is also working on a bigger raphy’ where his portraits are com- Krunić says he has only worked on one ings seemed to take on their own lives. in his opinion could be interpreted as "a project in collaboration again with posed in a caricatured way "but with no self-portrait and that was while he was "The real success is to have your art cultural genocide". writers, including David Albahari. Published by intention to laugh at them". still studying at the Faculty of Arts at independent from you. I started to feel "I like to believe that keeping muse- "Everything is planned and ar- "Their faces are filled with kindness Belgrade University. successful from the moment I discov- ums in Belgrade closed for more than ten ranged for, it is just a matter of time and longing; they are surprised at the "People say that every picture is in ered that my paintings have their own years is someone’s bad joke," he adds. before it is finished," he says. world they exist in, but more than any- fact a self-portrait," he adds. life," he says. Next to the art museum, the National The Mediala: Then and Now ex- thing, these characters search for the Krunić’s painting Magna Mater was Krunić says that being an artist is a Museum of Serbia, on Republic Square hibition at the RTS gallery closes on collocutors from the other side," Krunić selected by the organisers of the Medi- full time occupation that constantly in the centre of Belgrade, has also been Sunday, June 4th. Entrance is free of A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO says about his portraits. ala-exhibition that opened in Belgrade makes you consciously re-evaluate closed for renovation since 2012. charge. NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM As to why his works are mainly por- on May 16th. yourself and your surroundings. CONTENT traits, Krunić says: "My inspiration is "I grew up surrounded with the paint- IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE triggered by the motive to find more ‘MY PAINTINGS ings and painters. My father had an unu- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ for in-depth analysis, co-speakers… That is why I make their HAVE THEIR OWN LIFE’ sual gallery in his mechanic workshop ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” investigative reports, yearning expression. They are looking which was placed in our home yard. I features, interviews, RESTAURANT KOVAČ for someone with whom to have a con- When asked why the gallery chose was cognisant about the importance of modern ethno restaurant commentary and profiles versation, that is, co-speakers." this particular painting for the exhibi- art very young, and took it seriously as on the latest business and political headlines. He also says he is driven by the wish tion, Krunić says it is focused on ma- a life-time occupation," he says. to confuse his audience, and perhaps ternity and could, therefore, illustrate Krunić works have been exhibited have audiences in 200 years asking the spirit of the Mediala group, which, all over Europe, including Spain, Slo- themselves if the subjects really exist. he explains "was specific by their syn- venia, Netherlands, Denmark and Italy.

OTHER SERVICES: On several occasions, Krunić has col- thesis that united and held together In Belgrade, however, the Museum of laborated with various local and inter- great artists and very strong individu- Contemporary Art has been closed national writers, including the famous als". since 2007. Serbian writer David Albahari, in order His success is perhaps explained but According to the museum’s website, Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com to have accompanying texts for some his combination of the simple composi- the exhibition space is closed because 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY Inside guide to the Balkans’ secret wonders

Scattered across Situated in the very heart of Albania, EASTERN RHODOPE LASTOVO, A small settlement near Lake Skadar the surroundings of Gramsh offer sur- MOUNTAIN, BULGARIA CROATIA and part of the coastal municipality of the Balkans are prising gems. One of the most stunning Bar, just 15 km from the sea, Godinje is the waterfall at Sotira, 16 km from the has become a hot spot known for its stunning little town, down to which the water stream intriguing ancient stone houses. The ar- from Mt Tomorri. The Gramsh area also chitecture involves a chain-like system gems of nature or offers other natural beauties such as of connected houses, joined one to an- the canyon at Holta and the Black Lake, other, with arched cellars. Tourists can human history created by the ice amid the mountains. visit old Balsic Dynasty Place, or see the that are well Grmozur fort on the island of the same KLINJE LAKE, BOSNIA name, in Godinje bay. worth making a ĐURĐEVICA TARA BRIDGE, detour to visit. MONTENEGRO

BIRN Team

Hidden high in the mountains or deep beneath the earth, all across the Bal- kans, breath-taking sights are waiting Photo: Flickr/Luisa Josue to be seen - and found. Don't expect to Bye bye baby boxes find upscale facilities, or any facilities One of the most southernmost is- at all in some cases - but the peace and lands in Croatia, Lastovo was mainly The moment after Marija Pavlović and Tamara Srijemac gave birth, they left the hospital empty-handed. Photo: Beta wonder they offer should compensate Photo: Flickr/Klearchos Kapoutsis a military base during the Yugoslav for the lack of mod-cons. era, which saved it from exploitation This decision was made after Rodoljub Šabić, the born baby. The Tirana municipality also follows this macy chain prepares. In those packages you have Hikers hungry for ancient history by mainstream tourism. As a result, it While it is Serbian Commissioner for Information of Public Importance 2008 decision and in 2010 it added another 38 euros diapers, liners for mothers, baby bottles, soothers, GJIPE BEACH, ALBANIA and traditional rituals will find the East- has no large hotels, camps, resorts or and Personal Data Protection, launched an inves- for babies born in the capital. baby creams… I even get children’s books, toys, a ern Rhodope mountain range a top thousands of tourists. With only limited tradition to give tigation into whether private companies who pro- However, in the years that followed, Tirana's plate, a spoon ... almost everything for the baby,” said destination. Far from Rhodope's tour- tourism facilities and only one hotel duce or sell baby formula used personal informa- young parents frequently complained that they Tanurdžić, who lives in Bergen. istic hotspots, the eastern part of the on the woodland island of 40 square packages to new tion – which mothers were providing while filling the were unable to get the 38 euros promised by the mu- In this part of Europe, even local supermarket mountain range offers an escape into a kilometres and about 800 people, the forms in order receive packages – to increase their nicipality. chains want to participate and provide very nice world of mysticism. Must-visits include untouched beaches and open hori- mothers, the practice is sales. In Serbia, advertising baby formula is forbid- In January 2017, the new mayor of Tirana, Erion packages for the baby, added Svetlana. the Thracian sanctuary at Tatul, which zons are a tonic for those seeking a den. Veliaj promised a return to the practice, so that new “Kids and their needs are a priority for Scandina- dates back to 4,000 years BC, and peaceful getaway. The main village is starting to vanish. “We stopped permanently giving out packages parents in the capital would have not only taken via and it is great to know that you will get some help, Photo: Wikimedia/JankoSam which is listed among the ten wonders an enchanted-looking place that looks Photo Flickr/Arno Hoyer prepared by sponsors [private companies] and now the extra 38 euros but in the children name a saving specially if you don’t have a job. Those mothers who of Bulgaria, and Perperikon, a striking as if it comes from a fairy tale, with Rising 172 metres above the Tara BIRN Team only humanitarian organisations like Red Cross can bank account will be automatically open. don’t work can count on around 6.8 thousand euros, High in the mountains, the turquoise archaeological complex containing a houses dating back to the 15th and 16th River, the bridge of the same name is organise something like that, but only if this is ap- Some new parents are not yet aware of the new which amounts to two average [monthly] salaries in lake at Klinje is surrounded by stone megalithic Thracian sanctuary. The re- centuries, many of them topped by tra- a regular source of inspiration for art- ome countries in Europe – like Finland – proved by head of the hospital,” wrote Vejnović. practice. Norway,” explained Svetlana. cliffs and trees. Located close to the gion is rich in beautiful cliffs and caves ditional unusually constructed fumari ists. A popular destination for tourists, traditionally give baby boxes stuffed with He added that if any company now wants to give Marsida Duro, a young mother who gave birth She compared the situation to that of Macedonia, town of Gacko, in Republika Srpska, while water sports fans can choose to (chimneys). it is also much loved by adventurer- useful items to new mothers as they leave presents to mothers, the management of the hos- in January, in Tirana's Queen Geraldine University which is the birth country of her husband. They this is one of the oldest artificial lakes canoe or raft along the Arda river. seekers looking for some adrenalin hospitals. Some – like Scotland – just intro- pital decides whether or not to accept. It depends Hospital of Obstetrics and Gynaecology, told BIRN were there four years ago when she gave a birth to in Bosnia. During the Yugoslav era, GADIME CAVE, KOSOVO while out rafting. Tara Bridge was built duced the practice this year. And some – on the company’s intentions and the content of the that up until now, she has not been able to get any their first child. the lake was a popular bolthole for the SINEMORETS, between 1937 and 1940 when it was the Slike Serbia – are cutting it off. packages. compensation for her child’s birth. “I remember that I got two packages of diapers country's elite on their way to the sea- BULGARIA biggest vehicular concrete arch bridge After Marija Pavlović from Belgrade gave birth, “I hope to get the two stints of compensation, the containing only two diapers each. I gave them both side, as it lies close to the road leading in Europe. she left the hospital empty-handed. Pavlović went MONTENEGRO TOPS THE REGION state and the municipality one. Though still is too lit- to my room mate in the hospital, who was so sad to southern Croatian coastline and the into labour in January in the Clinical Centre of Ser- tle and we as young mothers don’t feel supported by about that [because that care is so poor],” she re- city of Dubrovnik. Today, however, fa- GRADAC RIVER, SERBIA bia – Belgrade’s biggest hospital. In the Montenegrin capital of Podgorica, parents the state at all,” she told. called. cilities such as restaurants or cafés are “Maybe my husband or I had to ask for that, I really receive welfare aid of 105 euros from the local gov- One of the countries with the longest tradition of long gone and most visitors these days don’t know. Because I heard from my girlfriends that ernment and a gift package containing 24 products EUROPE’S BEST PRACTICES baby boxes is Finland, which introduced the prac- are locals. some of them received packages at other Belgrade including diapers, lotion, bath and shampoo, some tice in 1930. Finnish mothers receive a box – that hospitals.“ clothes, a towel and bottle for feeding. Svetlana Tanurdžić, who lived in Serbia, and serves as a first crib – filled with everything a new- SUTJESKA, BOSNIA “It is not about the money, because everything The decision to provide all this was made in mid- moved to Norway, where the salaries are much high- born needs – matters, sheets, blankets, unisex caps, Photo: Flickr/Miguel Palhinha else is much more expensive, but it will be helpful 2016 following sharp criticism from the local NGOs, er than in Serbia, said she felt really good when she clothes and shoes, personal care items and cosmet- The waters of the Ionian Sea in Gjipe for those of us who are going through this for the first claiming that local authorities do not care enough saw what she and her baby get. ic, book and a toy. are deep and crystal clear, but there are time,” Pavlović told BIRN. about the birthrate. Until then, packages and finan- “There is a website with the list of companies who In January this year, Scotland also introduced slim chances of meeting crowds at this She added she didn’t know all the details of the cial assistance were much more modest. want to give those welcome packages, and then baby boxes for every new mother. The box contains pebbly beach in southern Albania. The things they might need for the baby during the first Financial aid and gifts for infants differ across the mothers can choose which one they like the most. 50 items that cover the needs of newborns, very reason is simple; there is no road to the days of its life. country. In the coastal town of Tivat, parents receive The most popular are the ones that the retail phar- similar to those in Finland. beach. You can come by boat, or walk “After I left the hospital, the nurse, who came to 63 euros and a package worth 50 euros. In the major- for about half-an-hour off the asphalt my home to check if everything was alright with the ity of northern municipalities, the baby aid package road from villages of Dhermi or Jala. Photo: Wikimedia/Arben Llapashtica baby, asked me whether I had some small bandages contains only a few products. The walk itself is a beautiful journey for the baby’s navel. That was the first time I have In other Balkan countries, like Kosovo, Albania, through a canyon. Visitors should bring Known also as the Marble Cave, in heard that I would need something like that. So, Croatia or Romania, mothers do not receive any their own food and beach chairs with the village of Gidime in Lipjan munici- things like that will be very important to get in those packages at all. However, some countries do provide them since very few sellers visit the pality, Gadime cave was only found in packages,” said Pavlović. financial benefits for parents. area. 1966 by a villager called Ahmet Asllani Tamara Srijemac, whose baby is now three Although there are no packages for mothers in who was out cutting stones. The cave is months old, also didn’t get a “present” from the lo- Croatia's maternity hospitals, mothers of newborn GRAMSH WATERFALL, 1,300 metres long and contains many cal authorities of Novi Sad, Serbia’s second city, nor children receive benefits. ALBANIA rare crystals. The cave is believed to be from her local hospital. The amount varies depending on cities. The most Photo: Wikimedia/Boris Petković 80,000 years old. “It was the same situation when my first child was sizable ones, granted upon the birth of a first-born Sutjeska National Park became fa- born, six years ago. If the hospital has sponsors, like child, vary from 160 euros in the coastal town of Photo: Wikimedia/Delysia mous in Yugoslavia following World GODINJE, private companies, then they prepare those pack- Šibenik to 670 euros in the island town of Vis, which War II as the site of a major battle in 1943 MONTENEGRO ages for mothers, but it is not something that the hos- is fighting demographic problems. In the capital of Photo: Wikimedia/ Nenad Sakovic between German Nazi forces and the You will find no big, all-inclusive ho- pital always has, because it is up to the companies’ Croatia, Zagreb, the state pays 240 euros to first-time communist-led Partisans under Josip tels, crazy discos or 24-hour partying ‘goodwill’,” Srijemac told BIRN. parents. TIMEXPERT VITAMIN C+ INTENSIVE MULTI Broz Tito. The 1973 film about the bat- in Sinemorets, which is everything that The Gradac river that runs through However, the situation was not always like that. While a second child receives nothing extra, ben- CORRECTION:FIRMNES,LUMINOSITY AND YOUTHFULNESS tle even starred Richard Burton as Tito! the popular Black Sea coastline resorts the western Serbian town of Valjevo is Less than two years ago, mothers in Belgrade would efits rise for third-born children, from 540 euros in TREATMENT PERFECT FOR JUNE. Several roads run through the park and are not: a place of peace, well-preserved one of the lesser known places for trek- get a bag containing baby skin care products, dia- the town of Sveta Nedelja – next to Zagreb – to 4,040 REGULAR PRICE 5.000 RSD. PRICE IN JUNE 4.000 RSD a drive offers impressive views of high nature and romance. Located in a natu- king in the region. A 17km-long river pers, tissues, bottles and pacifiers – gifts from the city euros in the coastal town of Crikvenica. Zagreb pays mountains, lakes, river canyons and ral reserve on the southernmost part of flows through whirlpools and rapids, of Belgrade and different sponsors all packed togeth- even more: 7,270 euros, but this is delivered over a deep forests. The park contains several the coast, the small village hosts some sometimes hitting hard on the stones er in a rather big bag. period of six years. 20% large monuments to the famous battle, of the country's most scenic beaches. and sometimes slowing to create per- Tihomir Vejnović, the head of a local hospital in In Romania, the state provides a monthly allow- OFF! the beautiful Skakavac waterfall and Undoubtedly the most popular is the fect pools for bathing. Close to Gradac Novi Sad, said in comments emailed to BIRN that the ance of 600 lei [150 euros] until the child is two and numerous lakes. The most famous are one where the mouth of the Veleka are two famous caves - Degurićka cave hospital hasn’t provided any packages for mothers then 20 euros per month until the child is 18. Kneginje Zorke 96, Tel/011 308 7824; 060 0700868 hidden in the forests and wide plateaus river flows into the Black Sea, forming a and Petnica cave, which even hosts a created by the sponsors (private companies) since The Albanian government gives the mother 38 www.esteticmoments.rs on Mt Zelengora. strip of sand surrounded by water. restaurant at the entrance. August last year. euros as a gift the moment that she registers a new- Photo: Wikimedia/Margott Photo: Wikimedia Commons 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Belgrade OPERA, BALLET Philharmonic AND CLASSICAL grand outdoor nd CLUBBING concert FRIDAY JUNE 2 Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Ilija The first concert of the M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Belgrade Philharmonic AND LIVE MUSIC Arts in brief SATURDAY JUNE 3rd Orchestra to be led by new chief conductor Gabriel Jovana Topalov, harpsichord and Feltz is going to be a big Rastko Popović, baroque violin, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg FRIDAY JUNE 2nd SATURDAY JUNE 3rd FRIDAY JUNE 9th one. The orchestra will be 5, 12pm playing outdoors at the site SUNDAY JUNE 4th • KEZZ (Tamara Ristić), • Counterignition, Rapidforce, • Igor Vince & ZAA, where their new concert hall will be built. The con- Faculty of Music – Students of Piano, Cultural Centre Grad, Braće Forever, Dom Omladine, Božidarac, Radoslava cert, which is free of charge concert, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Krsmanović 4, 8pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Grujića 3, 8pm TRA T T O R I A Studentski Trg 5, 11am will take place on Thursday, • Strah :: Tolja :: Belo, Dom • Red Hot Chili Peppers • Pogonbgd, Elektropionir, PIZZER I A June 25th. The site is close TUESDAY JUNE 6th Omladine, Makedonska 22, Tribute (RITAM Sex-I- Cetinjska 15, 9pm to the Palace of Serbia, in Ballet: The Sleeping Beauty 9pm Ja), Božidarac, Radoslava • Blender // Patrice Bäumel, New Belgrade's Block 13. (Tchaikovsky), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm • Samostalni Referenti + Grujića 3, 8pm Barutana, Kalemegdan Expect tens of thousands to Nebojsina 8 Zbogom Brus Li, Božidarac, • Mystic Stylez Family & Fortress, 11pm attend this special event. WEDNESDAY JUNE 7th 011/3863-999 Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm Friends, Drugstore, Bulevar • Dis-patch Throwback w/ [email protected] Opera: Adriana Lecouvreur (Cilea), The • Tijana T / Regen / Filip Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Kreidler, TAPAN, Drugstore, Italian Glow of National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm www.restoranamici.rs Raša Pavlović, Ilija M. Kolarac Xavi, Drugstore, Bulevar • S.P.Y & Stamina MC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, the Renaissance Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Barutana, Kalemegdan 11pm exhibition THURSDAY JUNE 8th • Blender // Hernan Fortress, 11pm • Blow Up Friday, Shake and The Belgrade City Museum Cattaneo, Barutana, • House Night by Mirko and Shake, boat on Sava river, Ballet: Women in D Minor (Bach)/ will be hosting a special Long Christmas Dinner (Vivaldi), The Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm Meex, Freestyler, boat on 11pm National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Italian exhibition named Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Ilija • Dobul BassVs. Divolly & Sava river, 11pm • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava Glow of the Renaissance M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Markward, Freestyler, boat • Last95, Dooshan and river, 11pm from June 7th to 30th. This 5, 8pm on Sava river, 11pm Goran Starčević, Lasta boat • ALIEN ALIEN, 20/44, boat exhibition has already FRIDAY JUNE 9th • Lady Dee, Peppe and on Sava river, 11pm on Sava River, 11pm travelled the world and Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Ilija Goran Starčević, Lasta boat • Somebody Call the Doctor, • Dobul BassVs. Divolly & features expensive and M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg on Sava river, 11pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, Markward, Freestyler, boat glamorous items such as 5, 8pm Opera: Vladimir and Kosara • Somebody Call the Doctor, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm jewellery and clothing from (Divjaković), The National Theatre, Club 94, boat on Sava river, • DJ Vuk, Shake and Shake, the era. Francuska 1, 7:30pm 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm SATURDAY JUNE 10th KOLARAC SATURDAY JUNE 10th • Bank la Decks, Shake and • DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, Tago Group celebrates Korean Opera: Norma (Bellini) - premiere, The Shake, boat on Sava river, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • SUS, Elektropionir, Cetinjska PROGRAMME National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm culture How to listen to the concert - Small Hall 11pm • DJ Lucky, Witch Bar, Pariska 15, 8pm of bonton, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am • Miss Millie, Ludost, 13, 10pm • EKV 20live17 special: Deca iz The Tago Group is a collec- Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, vode i Raka(EKV), Božidarac, tive of young Korean musi- SUNDAY JUNE 11th • Miki & Oysha, Mladost, Club 94, boat on Sava river, Radoslava Grujića 3, 8:30pm cians who play traditional Ljiljana Vukelja, piano and Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm 11pm • DiscoNotDisco & YES w/ percussive instruments and Vladimir Cvijić, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Belgrade Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat • Rainbow w/ Sana Garić (DJ Bernardino Femminielli, combine the music with ND Belgrade Philharmonic Or- FRIDAY, JUNE 2 TUESDAY JUNE 13th on Sava river, 11pm set), Zoe & Grof K.T.I, KPTM, 20/44, boat on Sava River, chestra martial arts. They will be • Grill 2 Thrill, KPTM, Žorža Žorža Klemansoa 22, 11pm 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Conductor: holding a free performance retrospective for famed Anatasija Stanković, paino, Italian Klemansoa 22, 11pm • TCB (Live at Robert • Autarkic live / Disco Belgrade Philharmonic Or- Fabrice Bollon on Wednesday, June 14th at Cultural Centre, Kneza Miloša 56, 8pm chestra Soloists: Ballet: Giselle (Adam), The National • DJ Alex Tic, Industrija Bar, Johnson) / Vlada Janjić/ Halal, Turbo Recordings, Dom Sindikata. However, to Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm For Adventurers 5 LP Duo get free tickets, you need to photographer-turned- Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Akioki/Radoman, 20/44, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Programme: Conductor: visit or call an Eventim box • Kristijan Molnar All night boat on Sava River, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm Daniel Raiskin J. Adams: Short Ride in a Fast office to order them. EXHIBITIONS long, 20/44, boat on Sava • Somebody Call the Doctor, Soloist: Machine bouncer AND EVENTS M. Nyman: Concerto for Piano th Maria Solozobova, violin River, 11pm SUNDAY JUNE 4 Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm Programme: and Orchestra (arr. for two French Film FRIDAY JUNE 2nd • Special House, Freestyler, G. Rossini: William Tell, over- pianos by M. Nyman, world weekend honours Marquardt will be working as an artist in residence this month in Belgrade, during which he will spend Photo: With the courtesy of KC Grad premiere) time photographing the city and its people. • Ministry Live, Barutana, boat on Sava river, 11pm ture women The Seventh Saloon of the Landscape P. Juon: Concerto for Violin and C. Debussy: Jeux, poème dansé Donji Grad, Kalemegdan, • Flower Power, Barutana, Architecture, Serbian Academy of Orchestra No. 3 A. Scriabin: The Poem of After the wall fell, many of the fash- punk and new-wave scene, and the kids Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, nd th 6pm 9pm Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm M. Daugherty: Metropolis Ecstasy From June 2 to 4 , Dom Sven Marquardt ion companies and labels he had pho- with spiked hair who wore eyeliner. Production: Belgrade Philhar- Exhibition: Žana Bajić, Guarnerius, • DJ Architect, Club 94, boat • Apgrade with Ostgut Ton, Symphony Omladine will be screening tographed no longer existed and he "People opposed the dictatorship and Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm Production: Belgrade Philhar- monic Orchestra on Sava river, 11pm Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm five French films focused on mixes photography had to find a new way to pay the bills. wanted to somehow express their point Festival: Miredita Dobar Dan, Center for monic Orchestra Cultural Decontamination, Birčaninova TH great stories shown through SUNDAY JUNE 11 with bouncer shifts When the techno scene began to bloom of view. I found it fascinating and wanted 21, 5pm MONDAY JUNE 5th MONDAY JUNE 12th SATURDAY, JUNE 3RD strong female characters. in Berlin, Marquardt’s brother was a DJ to be a part of it. I had this manual SLR SATURDAY JUNE 3rd Concert Hall, 11am Tickets for each film cost at one of Berlin’s and promoter who needed some help camera, a Praktica, and I just started Kolarac Hall, 11am Vladimir Tošić´s music for two just two euros. You can find • DJ Marchez, Club 94, boat • DJ Marchez, Club 94, boat at the door for some of his parties and photographing the people on the scene," DOK'N'RITAM – Festival of Musical JO & JA - 15 years of performing pianos out more about the pro- hottest clubs. Don’t hired his brother. Marquardt told GQ magazine in 2015. Documentary Movies, Studentski Grad on Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Soloists: Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića together gramme at Dom Omladine's Today, Marquardt stands at the end Marquardt started working as a free- Soloists: Ljiljana Vukelja 179, 4pm official website: www. miss his exhibition of the line to enter Berghain. Essential- lance artist in the 1980s for German Jovana Topalov, harpsichord and Vladimir Cvijić th TUESDAY JUNE 6th TUESDAY JUNE 13th SUNDAY JUNE 4 FREE COPY Rastko Popović, baroque violin Production: Music Centre domomladine.org. ly, he’s the one who decides whether magazines and was an assistant to pho- Programme: Admission free in Belgrade this you’re getting into Europe’s hottest un- tographer Rudolph Schafer, who was Škola Moda Art, Teatar 78, Resavska 78, • We Lost The Sea /AUS/ • BIG BEND RTS & SIMON Handel, Telemann, Scarlatti, International derground dance club or not. an important name in the local fashion 8pm Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Graun/Bach THURSDAY JUNE 15TH month. & Meniscus /AUS/ & RIGTER, Dom Omladine, Belgrade Singers That’s what his weekends look like. photography business. Due to Mar- MONDAY JUNE 5th Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Ticket fee: 300 dinars During the rest of the week, he’s a pro- quardt’s sometimes controversial art Dumbsaint /AUS/, Makedonska 22, 8pm Music Gallery, 6pm charity concert Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 David GALIĆ fessional photographer who creates – not to mention his face tattoos, many Exhibition: Nemanja Maraš, Progres Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat THURSDAY JUNE 8TH Summer concert after the Gallery, corner of Knez Mihailove and Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić art for popular fashion brands, mu- piercings and a look that features a lot 7pm on Sava river, 11pm AND FRIDAY JUNE 9TH "Magic Flute Worskhop" The Sound of Spring charity Zmaj Jovine, 8pm BIRN editorial team: Production: Music Centre hotographer Sven Mar- sic labels and magazines around the of black – Marquardt’s work was com- concert will be held at the th • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat Admission free quardt has one of the most world. How many other bouncers have monly censored by the government. TUESDAY JUNE 6 Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Concert Hall, 8pm Children’s Cultural Centre on Sava river, 11pm WEDNESDAY JUNE 14th interesting life stories you’ll done shoots for Hugo Boss? That’s what His Future’s Past exhibition shows the [email protected] of Belgrade at Donka Group Exhibition: Author – Biljana Sales & Marketing: Marija • Slap & Tickle – Dea, Danijel ever encounter. Not only makes Marquardt so unique. influences of the last three decades on Ćirić, Cultural Centre Grad, Braće Krsmanović 4, 8pm Spicek Hall in Takovska is he one of the most im- Marquardt’s new exhibition, which Marquardt. All of the photographs are Petrović Čerhanov, Club 94, boat on • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat th 8 on Tuesday, June 6 th Pportant photographers of the last few will be hosted by KC Grad in June, is black and white, yet very complex and WEDNESDAY JUNE 7 Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm at 8am. The choir was decades coming out of Berlin, he also called Future’s Past and gives us a se- meticulously staged. It is an exhibition that [email protected] • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, founded in 2012 under the Exhibition: The Glory of Renaissance, Subscription & Distribution: moonlights as a bouncer working at lection of his work spanning several thrives on contradictions and contrast. Belgrade City Museum, Resavska 40, 7pm Shake and Shake, boat on Shake and Shake, boat on auspices of the Embassy of Europe’s most famous club – Berghain. decades. Not only is he exhibiting, but Even though all of the photographs were Goran Knezevic th Sava river, 11pm Sava river, 11pm Canada with members orig- His story is one that doesn’t fit into Marquardt will be working as an artist taken during the day, they tend to show THURSDAY JUNE 8 +381 11 4030 303 inating from more than 10 any type of mould. It’s not the fairy-tale in residence this month in Belgrade, his subjects taking part in activities that are Festival: S.U.T.R.A., Museum of Science [email protected] Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine THURSDAY JUNE 8th THURSDAY JUNE 15th SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES countries. Tickets can be story of a menacing club bouncer that during which he will spend time photo- commonly associated with the night. and Technology, Dobračina 51, 7pm purchased at the Embassy discovers his love of photography and graphing the city and its people. And even though Marquardt likes to th Printing: POLITIKA štamparija FRIDAY JUNE 9 • King Khan & The Shrines, • Darko Rundek, Stadion of Canada, Kneza Miloša transitions to a different life. It’s a story The socio-political situation in Berlin get to know his subjects before taking d.o.o. of a young man from a well-off family after the fall of the wall has greatly in- their pictures, he is able to achieve an Festival: DEV9T - Opening, Stara Dorćol Platz, Dobračina 59, Tašmajdan, Ilije Garašanina 75. The money raised will Ciglana, Slanački put 26, 7pm ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight be donated to the care who grew up in East Berlin and became fluenced Marquardt’s life and work. His incredible atmosphere of spontaneity 9pm 26, 9pm th COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 centre for high school fascinated by the people of Berlin in the family was not struggling. His mother in his images. SATURDAY JUNE 10 Circulation: 4,000 • DJ Cholak and DJ • DJ Cholak and DJ Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs and university students at 1980s. He then decided he would love was a lab assistant, his father an engi- The exhibition runs until Saturday, Photography Exhibition, Children's Marchez, Shake and Shake Marchez, Shake and Shake Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade to document what he saw by taking pic- neer and his grandmother owned a June 17th at KC Grad and entrance is free Belgrade Cultural Center, Takovska 8, Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. Zvečanska 52. boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm tures of the city and its residents. bakery. However, he was drawn to the of charge. 11am 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT El Gato Negro The Zemun The colourful Mediterranean wells ambience of this bistro makes it a Old artesian wells are still perfect place to visible on certain street corners spend summer in Zemun. evenings.

David GALIĆ

his very cool and chic Mediterranean-style bis- tro is not only the perfect place to get some light food at any time of day; it’s Talso an excellent bar that many club- bers frequent on their first stop of the night. Located in one of the prettiest neigh- bourhoods just outside the city centre area, the so-called Professors’ Colony, El Gato Negro is, according to many, one of the best – if not the best – Spanish/Latin American restaurants in Belgrade. Known for its delicious tapas, it has become a very popular place to grab some lunch for Belgraders who are in- the-know enough to seek it out. But its great selection of cocktails, beautiful in- The bar has become a very popular place to start the night off for people who are looking to go clubbing into the wee hours of the morning. Photo: Facebook/El Gato Negro terior and exterior design, friendly staff and ambience have also made it a very The interior is also brilliantly de- The bar has become a very popular the night, being able to go somewhere city you’d like to visit later while being popular night spot. signed, very minimal and chic, with place to start the night off for people like El Gato Negro to get in the mood perfectly tucked away just outside the The look of El Gato Negro is definitely lots of open space, glass and plenty of who are looking to go clubbing into the means a lot, since customers are able to centre. one of the most appealing things about colours. Even though you might not ex- wee hours of the morning. A lot of that have a nice conversation here without The food is excellent, the cocktails it. Now, when the weather is nice, there’s pect it from a place whose name trans- has to do with the fantastic cocktails needing to yell over giant speakers. are among the best in Belgrade and the a great little garden area set up in front lates to The Black Cat, it’s actually one that the bartenders at El Gato Negro If you’re a beer fanatic, this might not summery, colourful Mediterranean of the bistro. And even though it’s lo- of the most colourful and brightly de- make. Even if they don’t have what be the spot for you, but the cocktail, ambience of the bistro and bar makes cated right on a main street, it’s still very signed bars in the city, with chairs and you’re looking for on the menu, they’ll wine and liquor selection is truly excel- it the perfect place to either start a long pleasant to sit there. Partly because the tables in a rainbow of colours. probably be able to mix it up for you if lent. And best of all, you can have a light night or enjoy a more temperate night Old artesian wells are still visible on certain street corners in Zemun (Njegoševa and Pregrevica street). Photos:Goran Boroja street isn’t too busy, but mostly because The bar is also ample and can seat a you ask nicely. meal as well to make sure you’ll have out with friends and family. of the huge assortment of plants and lot of people comfortably. Another great thing about El Gato Ne- enough energy for the club later. flowers you’re surrounded by. You’ll often see people eating at the gro is that while there is a DJ and music El Gato Negro is really perfect if you Goran BOROJA used by the public, 83 were in private part of the capital in the 1930s - had As we’ve already said, it’s a very Med- bar as well. While it is more of a res- over the weekend, it’s not really that need a break from the typical bars of hands. difficulty in efficiently supplying -resi iterranean setting and it sometimes taurant for lunch with friends and col- loud. Belgrade’s city centre and are looking El Gato Negro he remains of unused artesian Today only six artesian wells remain dents with water until plumbing was feels almost as if you’re having a drink leagues during the week, the nightlife Considering that many of the patrons for something a bit more relaxed and Address: Čarlija Čaplina 24 wells can still be found on a few in Zemun - three are on Njegoševa introduced. and a bite to eat somewhere close to the of El Gato Negro is great – particularly are planning on listening to incredibly slightly exotic. Its location gives you Telephone: +381 112080500 Tstreet corners in Zemun. While street close to the Zemunski kej. As a consequence, many people sea. on Fridays and Saturdays. loud dance music for the duration of easy access to any other part of the www.elgatonegrobeograd.com the wells haven't drawn any water for Although they are not in operation, collected rainwater and even used decades, they were once essential to the wells' heavy wheels still turn and the water from the Danube and Sava supplying the whole town with drink- squeak. They don't, however, produce a rivers. However, at the beginning of ing water. drop of water. the 20th Century, the Zemun physi- Saxophonist Simon Beer and Jazz on the The term artesian refers to very During the 19th and early 20th Century, cian in charge of public health, Sava deep wells - often drilled down to forty the domestic water supply was the re- Nedeljković, announced that drinking Rigter RTS Big Band show streets of Savamala metres - where groundwater stored sponsibility of special craftsmen whose water from the Danube was prohibited. between two layers of impermeable main task was to fill up barrels of water Zemun's old wells are now a relic of he Radio Television Serbia Big Band will perform he third annual Beer Street Festival takes place on June 2nd rock can be reached. and distribute them to households. a bygone era and serve as a reminder with special guest soloist, saxophonist Simon and 3rd in the hip Belgrade neighbourhood of Savamala. As As recently as 1940, 145 such wells Belgrade and Zemun - the latter of how difficult getting drinking water Rigter, on June 13th in the large hall at Dom Om- always, the festival is being organised by one of the more were listed as in use. While 62 were was a separate town before it became once was. Tladine. Rigter is one of the most respected saxo- Tpopular bars in the area, Berliner. Naturally, the festival phonists on the Dutch jazz scene and has been featured will take place in Braće Krsmanović Street, which is where Berliner as a soloist on more than 40 different albums over the is located. years. The street will be closed for traffic during the festival while it Rigter has played with lots of big jazz names, not only hosts lots of food and beer stands. Some of the local craft beer in the recording studio. He has toured extensively with companies that are participating in the event include Dogma, Kabi- many groups and as a solo artist. Some of his famous col- net and Tron. As for the music, this will be provided courtesy of the laborators included Curtis Fuller, Slide Hampton, George Col- Veljko Vujičić Trio and the Vladimir Krnetić Quintet on June 2nd and man, Alvin Queen and The Rotterdam Jazz Orchestra, among the Miša Krstić Trio and the Dragan Milovanović Quartet the next day. As others. Tickets for the event are on sale now and cost four euros. ever, entrance to the festival is absolutely free.

AIRLINE TICKETS FOR THE WHOLE WORLD King Khan & the Shrines play the Dorćol Mystic Stylez open Dis-patch remembered at Drugstore Drugstore’s summer season Dorćol Platz will host one of the shining Boris Brejcha’s first Belgrade gig Bernardino Femminielli at 20/44 The now-defunct Dis-patch Festival, stars of the garage rock scene, King One of the more popular underground which was one of Belgrade's most im- Khan & the Shrines, on June 8th. King dance music clans in Belgrade, DJ crew German high-tech minimal techno star Bernardino Femminielli is a Canadian portant contemporary and experimen- Khan, a Canadian who ended up find- Mystic Stylez, are throwing a party Boris Brejcha will be spinning the decks artist who is known for his hyper-sex- tal music festivals, will be celebrated ing his home in Berlin during his first on June 3rd at Drugstore with a bunch for Belgrade fans for the first time ever ual yet genderless art and music. His at a party on June 9th at Drugstore. The tour back in 1999, is said to be one of the of their friends and collaborators. The on June 10th at the Belgrade Fair. Ann music is influenced by everything from event will be headlined by legendary most electric frontmen on the scene event will take place in Drugstore's all Clue, Kristina Lalić, DJ Marko Vuković Italo-disco to drone and industrial. German kraut-rockers Kreidler, who and puts on very eclectic and often new summer venue called the Secret and Bokee will be support DJs too. He will be playing for the first time in will be playing Belgrade for the first bizarre performances. Tickets for the Garden. Entrance is three euros at the Regular tickets cost 18 euros and VIP Belgrade on June 10th at the 20/44 splav. www.flyflytravel.com time. Tickets cost 10 euros at the door event cost €17 at the door. door. tickets will set you back €22 at the door. Tickets cost five euros. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 02 - Thursday, June 15, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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