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Pencil Gauge PHOTOGRAPHS by THEO COOK THEO by PHOTOGRAPHS 18.2 20.0 18.2

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Pencil Gauge PHOTOGRAPHS by THEO COOK THEO by PHOTOGRAPHS 18.2 20.0 18.2 PROJECTS & TECHNIQUES Pencil gauge PHOTOGRAPHS BY THEO COOK 18.2 20.0 18.2 6.0 19.0 M6 cheese head 20mm bolt and nut used to secure pencil in beam Half round indent on upper face 18.2 of stock to match pencil shape 18.2 70.0 250.0 4.5 Ø4.5 30.0 M6 thumbscrew tapped into 4.5mm hole with captive washer between screw end and beam 70.0 50.0 MARKING DIAGRAM First principles The pencil gauge Begin by making the stock. As every face on this component is a potential reference face take the time to make sure that every face One of the best ways to master the art of using hand tools and edge is square and flat. A hefty plane is to use them to make tools of your own. Theo Cook demonstrates and shooting board is my preferred method. If your finished dimensions are slightly less a few tricks of the trade in the making of his bog oak pencil gauge than those in the cutting list don’t fret, flat and square is more important. Having accomplished this, mark out the through hole with 45° corners with a sharp pencil on both faces of the stock. If you have chosen he pencil gauge is often technique and a selection of tools a dark wood use some masking tape to overlooked as being a useful that you can rely on. So, what CUTTING LIST make reading the layout lines easier. When Taddition to the tool kit, but better way to combine these Components size you are happy with the layout use a marking for me, it’s an essential part of my principles than to incorporate Beam: 250 x 18.2 x 18.2mm gauge to define the hole and generate cut layout and marking equipment. In them into a live project and make Stock: 70 x 55 x30mm lines to guide your chisel later. Make sure fact I use it for marking out nearly one of your own? This article is not to extend the perimeter lines right into all my woodworking joints prior to based on one of our set piece the corners as they need to be at 45°. It’s using a marking gauge or a projects that includes all the worth checking the width of your smallest scalpel. I’m a teacher at Robinson elements of accurate marking, chisel before committing to gauge lines as House Studio furniture school in measuring and cutting to produce you will need it to cut the corners. For best East Sussex and I often let the a tool that will become a firm results use a pillar drill to drill out the waste students use my own tools so they favourite in your layout armoury. in the hole by drilling halfway through from can experience as many different You could of course buy a new each side. This helps to counter any drift in ways of working as possible or second-hand marking gauge the drill and avoid breakout on the exit side before settling on one that suits and modify that if you want but of the hole. I drilled four closely grouped their style. A favourite among the for me that’s missing the point; holes using a 7.5mm lip and spur drill bit. A shooting board is your best friend when it comes to dimension components by hand students for the last few years has making your own is far more You are now ready to clean the hole using been my collection of `shop-made satisfying and you get to choose a chisel, creeping up slowly to the gauge used to keep your chisel at 90° to the face having to sharpen your chisel for the final pencil gauges. When it comes to the timber. My choice on lines and working from both sides. Use of the stock. Chisels can quickly lose their few cuts. If you have a die square or small layout, marking and measuring it this occasion was bog oak your layout gauge lines to locate your chisel edge when chopping through end grain on engineer’s square use it to check the walls helps to have a good solid (Quercus robur). for a final chop. A steadying block can be extremely hard woods so do not rule out of the hole. 36 F&C255 www.woodworkersinstitute.com www.woodworkersinstitute.com F&C255 3 7 PROJECTS & TECHNIQUES Pencil gauge Drilling for hardware Make sure you have sourced your hardware before drilling any holes when tightened you will need to excavate a small cavity inside the for the thumbscrew and thread. No two pieces of timber are the same square hole to locate a washer. I made my own cutter for this job, and it will pay to experiment with a few test holes in an offcut of the but it can also be done with a regular chisel. If your thumbscrew has same species to check the fit of these components. Having a selection a collar like mine you may want to pre-drill a larger hole into the top of drill bits at 0.5mm increments or less either side of what you expect of the stock to accommodate it before drilling for the tapping tool. to use is also a good idea. A good engineering supplier should be able This makes a neat step for the thumbscrew to go into and conceals to supply you with the corresponding drill for your tapping tool. There the thread. is a huge range of thumbscrews available online from ironmongers Tap the thread and test fit the thumbscrew, and shorten the length and engineering suppliers. This one has an M6 thread and required a if required with a hacksaw or grinder. To avoid any damage or wear to 4.5mm diameter hole. I was able to buy everything I needed from eBay. the wooden thread from the thumbscrew remove any rough edges or To prevent the thumbscrew from pressing directly onto the beam burrs at the end. Use masking tape to highlight layout lines on dark timbers Use a cutting gauge to establish clear parameters Through hole and thumbscrew sleeve clearance Create a recess to accommodate the washer A 45° combination square is a great tool for generating Centre mark the holes before drilling to avoid drilling Leave enough material to fine tune the hole with a accurate chamfers outside the gauge lines sharp chisel My ‘shop-made solution for drilling backwards Cut your thread straight into the wood with a metal tap Putting the lead into your pencil gauge You can now mark out where to drill the hole chisel and superglue the nut in place. Screw Cut the slot in the end of the beam for the pencil in the end of the beam. Unless the bolt into the nut to prevent the glue from with a tenon saw or similar or on a the size of your pencil is very different from clogging up the thread. The head for the bolt bandsaw. This gap will allow the pencil mine this should be 19mm in from the end. should also be cut in but this can be drilled. to be gripped tightly. Make sure you measure your pencil with a Perfect fit Vernier first to establish the correct size for I prefer to use a shooting board to plane the beam the hole, it should be the same size as your so that it fits the hole and have made a separate jig pencil. For a clean hole I would use a lipped that allows me to shoot identical 45° chamfers on and spur tipped drill bit to drill this hole with the corners. You may find that you are able to do this a pillar drill. freehand or by using a dedicated chamfer plane. With that done you can now mark out and drill the holes for the nut and bolt that are used to secure the pencil in place. I used a stainless steel M6 cheese head 20mm long bolt and an M6 stainless steel nut. First drill a 6mm hole all the way through the beam. Then pass the bolt through the hole and tighten the nut onto it. Use a scalpel to trace round the nut to mark an appropriate recess that will accommodate the nut flush with the side Convert your shooter to plane 45° with a simple jig of the beam. Remove the waste with a small Sink the nut and the head of the bolt into the beam so they are flush 38 F&C255 www.woodworkersinstitute.com www.woodworkersinstitute.com F&C255 3 9 Cut a slot to give the clamp some spring Shape the top and bottom of the stock to suit Soften all the edges with a chamfer Finishing touches You can now turn your attention back to the stock and create the gouge or a rasp and finish with some abrasive wrapped around finishing touches. These consist of shaping the top and bottom of a suitably sized piece of dowel. Any surface preparation and the stock to suit your eye or the equipment you have to hand and finish should be approached carefully as sanding the beam could softening the edges with a slight chamfer. So that I can maximise reduce it in size, conversely the application of a thick protective the use of my gauge and work to within a lead’s width from the coating could cause the moving parts to bind or even transfer stock I have created a half round indent on one face of the stock to your work piece.
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