Japanese Wooden Planes 44P01.01+ Japanese Wooden Planes 44P01.01+

Like Japanese , Japanese planes are pulled, not pushed. They can be pushed, Like Japanese saws, Japanese planes are pulled, not pushed. They can be pushed, but cutting control is better on the pull stroke. These planes are similar to traditional but cutting control is better on the pull stroke. These planes are similar to traditional Japanese planes with white bodies; however, a metal chip breaker with a Japanese planes with white oak bodies; however, a metal chip breaker with a capscrew replaces the traditional wooden wedge. The high-carbon steel blades capscrew replaces the traditional wooden wedge. The high-carbon steel blades will hold a keen edge to achieve tissue-thin shavings, even in difficult . will hold a keen edge to achieve tissue-thin shavings, even in difficult woods. Setting the blade is done with gentle taps from a light or a hammer. Setting the blade is done with gentle taps from a light mallet or a plane hammer. To facilitate blade adjustment, the capscrew should neither be too tight nor too To facilitate blade adjustment, the capscrew should neither be too tight nor too loose. All planes require a bit of practice in setting up the blade to achieve the final loose. All planes require a bit of practice in setting up the blade to achieve the final cut, but once there, perform remarkably well. cut, but once there, perform remarkably well. As with any product made from , these planes will react to local humidity As with any product made from wood, these planes will react to local humidity levels. In a heated shop (where humidity can be very low), wood contraction can levels. In a heated shop (where humidity can be very low), wood contraction can bind the blades in the bodies. Be prepared to shave a bit of wood from the throat bind the blades in the bodies. Be prepared to shave a bit of wood from the throat sides if you will be using them in very dry conditions. sides if you will be using them in very dry conditions.

Increasing the Depth of Cut Increasing the Depth of Cut To advance the blade, hold the plane firmly in one hand and tap either the front of To advance the blade, hold the plane firmly in one hand and tap either the front of the plane or the end of the blade with the hammer. Use light taps at first to develop a the plane or the end of the blade with the hammer. Use light taps at first to develop a good feel for the amount of force required to move the blade a predictable amount. good feel for the amount of force required to move the blade a predictable amount. Sight down the sole of the plane to ensure the blade edge is parallel to the sole and Sight down the sole of the plane to ensure the blade edge is parallel to the sole and adjust as required. adjust as required.

Decreasing the Depth of Cut Decreasing the Depth of Cut To decrease the depth of cut, rap the heel of the plane body with the hammer. To decrease the depth of cut, rap the heel of the plane body with the hammer. Tighten capscrew as needed. Tighten capscrew as needed.

Adjusting the Skew Adjusting the Skew To adjust the blade for even shaving thickness, tap either side of the blade with the To adjust the blade for even shaving thickness, tap either side of the blade with the hammer until the blade edge is parallel to the sole. hammer until the blade edge is parallel to the sole.

Removing the Blade Removing the Blade To remove the blade, loosen the capscrew and rap the heel of the plane body with To remove the blade, loosen the capscrew and rap the heel of the plane body with the hammer until the blade is loose enough to remove by hand. Alternatively, the hammer until the blade is loose enough to remove by hand. Alternatively, turn the plane body upside down, the blade edges in a turn the plane body upside down, clamp the blade edges in a woodworking vise (equipped with soft pads or wooden jaw liners), and drive the body off by tapping (equipped with soft pads or wooden jaw liners), and drive the body off by tapping its heel. its heel.

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