400km or 250miles tU d t (111(10, I Abstract: During June and July 1999, twelve members of the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club visited Bolivia. Following a week of acclimatisation on the altiplano, five visited the Cocapata range near Cochabamba for exploratory rock climbing on granite peaks, while the remainder completed a two­ week trek in the Cordillera Real Subsequently all combined for an ascent of Sajama. Two members then explored the Cordillera Occidental. This report includes notes on planning, routes, personal accounts and further opportunities for climbing and trekking. Contents: Introduction 4 Birds ofBolivia .42 Personnel and Logistics 7 Excursions 48 Cocapata 10 Conclusions 59 Cordillera Real 22 Achievements, Acknowledgements 61 Cordillera Occidental.. 34 Sources ofinformation 62 The YRCBulletin 3 Winter 1999 Introduction The Yorkshire Ramblers' Club's links with Bolivian mountaineering started in 1898 when honorary member, Sir Martin Conway, made the first ascent of Illimani's highest top (6402m 21ooofi) with two Swiss guides. Their local porters abandonned them on the ascent of this prominent peak which dominates the view from the city of La Paz at the southem end ofthe Cordillera Real (Conway, 1901, pI24). Conway later almost reached the summit of Ancohuma (6427m 21086fi) at the northem end of the Cordillera Real. Then in 1966 Tony Smythe climbed ten peaks', mostly first ascents, in the Illimani, Ruben Calderon 1 These traditional mountaineering ascents Ancohuma area with one or both of were made more tiring by penitentes and Dave Challis and Bob Hall of a long days out from Laguna Jacha Leche Bangor University team. Khotabasecamp. The ten ascents were: Yoka de Ancohuma, 19,873ft, 1stascent; That trip was during a generation long Kimsakolyo, 19,332ft, 1stascent; lull in YRe organised mountaineering Hankopiti I, 19,249ft, 2nd ascent; BuenaVista, 18,200ft, 1stascent; in the greater ranges. Later, the Club, Viluyo 2, 18,39Oft, 3rd ascent; after a series ofwell supported Alpine Taparacu, 18,867ft, 2nd ascent; meets, organised a successful Haltatawa, 18,370ft, possible 1stascent; expedition to the Apolobamba range, Nonte Triangulo, 18,609ft, 1stascent; north ofLake Titicaca by the Peruvian PicodeLinea, 18,40Oft, 1stascent; and border, in 1988 (Smith, 1989). This Kunotawa, 19,622ft, 1stascent. The YRC Bulletin 4 Winter 1999 Apolobamba: Hunancuni & Cololo from Quello attracted six members and created two and Chile predominantly attracting first ascents of new routes on peaks­ older, retired members. The vast which had previously had few visits majority ofthose interested wanted to (Brain, 1999, p17,75). That expedition's spend a month, rather than six weeks, logistical support was provided by on the trip and preferred to trek Bernardo Guarachi who was, this without vehicle support through year, being honoured in Bolivia by the attractive peaks and meet up as a isssue of a stamp commemorating his singlegroup for part ofthe time. ascent ofEverest. Consequently the expedition itinerary was in four parts: acclimatisation; trekking in the Cordillera Real or exploratory rock climbing in the Cordillera Cocapata [Echevarria, 1997) near Cochabamba; a combined trip to Sajama; and finally, for those who remained, an exploration of the Cordillera Ocidental and the Puno de Atacama. These lasted about one, two, one and two weeks respectively. There followed a series of Himalayan The Apolobamba, Quimsa Cruz and treks and climbs over the next ten Southern Cordillera Occidental were years until, by the late 1990s, groups rejected as the main trekking and ofmostly newly retired members, with climbing as being, respectively, forty or so years experience, were already visited, unlikely to bear many heading out to Nepal once or twice a significant new classical routes and year. too remote and widely spaced. 1995 saw a YRC party of sixteen Support was negotiated, several trekking and climbing in the Jugal months in advance with the La Paz Himal including a younger group of based agency, Andean Summits, with members. These active younger whom a suitable trekking route members concentrated increasingly on through the Cordillera Real was international caving trips over the next negotiated. Portering proved much few years. This, and their careers, more reliablethan a century earlier. resulted in a 1998 call for members Information on the Cocapata was interested in another hip to Bolivia supplied by Evelio Echevarria to supplement his article in the Alpine 2 Cololo, 5915m / 19,406ft, west ridge Journal. route and Nevado Nubi,571Om / 18,734ft south-west ridge. 'The YRC Bulletin 5 Winter 1999 Personnel: Logistics: Flights were booked nine months in advance with American Airlines from Cordillera Cocapata, Climbing: Heathrow to Miami then Miami to La Paz, This reduced Conway's forty David Hick four day journey out from London to Tim Josephy La Paz [Conway 1901, p69) to just Duncan Mackay twenty hours including a stroll round Rory Newman Miami's fashionable art deco area. Michael Smith Cordillera Real, Trekking: David Atherton The local agent provided all trekking Derek Bush and base camp gear and support, local Albert Chapman transport and food. They also booked lan Crowther hotels and tourist excursions for the acclimatisation period. We took out lain Gilmour two Club Ultra Quasar tents, three Alan Kay MSR®Dragonfly stoves for use Alan Linford beyond base camp and eight climbing David Smith ropes. Our base camps were supported by a cook and, in the case of the larger camps, an assistant. The food carried Cuzco, Arequipa and Sorata into the camp was supplemented by Christine Marriott small amounts purchased locally as available and by a resupply after a week when the guides changed over. Support from Andean Summits Jose Camarlinghi, guide Javier Thellache, guide Vrrginia(Vicky), cook Arles, cook Joseph Barclay Pentland (1827), a Rebecca, assistant cook Briton who was the first person to map the Cordillera Real, was allowed Rafael Save, driver £650, including £200 for books and George, driver instruments, for his eighteen month survey of Bolivia on behalf of the Juan Carlos, driver/aspirant guide British government. In 1988, the Mario Quespe Mendosa, boatman Apolobamba trip cost members about £1300 including incidental costs in the field but excluding personal equipment. This time the expedition, The YRC Bulletin 7 Winter 1999 with its increased level of support, Since our 1988 visit the transport cost about £2000. That comprised infrastructure and mountaineering roughly of: support service had improved £550 air fare, considerably. The publication of £1200 logistical support, Yossi Brain's climbing guide, earlier £200 on excursions and this year, makes the peaks accessible £50 administration and to a wider range of mountaineers. communal gear. Bolivia would appear to be set for an expansion ofmountaineering activity. The trekking routes through the Cordillera Real are now well established and a variation, selected on the advice of the agent, was planned Why Bolivia? to provide an opportunity to ascend a Invariably the first reaction of anyone peak ifall was going well. told of our plans was to ask ''Why For the climbers, photographs of the Bolivia?" We saw the main Cordillera Cocapata, supplied by advantages as abundant impressive Echevarria, indicated that the steepest peaks, a lack of climbers, peak fees continuous rock was to be found on and bureaucracy, clear blue skies the west side of Jatuncasa (Cerro almost guaranteed daily, a rich and Jatun Khasa on the map). unfamiliar culture, general stability, Consequently the largest lake in the reasonable safety, inexpensive local area, Lago Calzonani, only a few support and ease of travel to the kilometres away, appeared to provide mountains. The air fare costs, sparse a good base. This lake is a few, uphill flora and fauna, less well known kilometres from the nearest road and mountains and the impossibility of several hours steep and rough driving gradually acclimatising are significant from the city ofCochabamba. disadvantages. The YRCBulletin 8 Winter 1999 The expedition consisted not of a single party but groups which formed at different times to visit different areas. It would be tedious to record who was where at each stage but the following outlines the main movements. June Day 19 Sa Fly Heathrow - Miami - Bolivia 1 20 Su Arrive in La Paz and remain there for orientation/recovery 2 Titicaca sailing group (3) Cuzcu group (9) 21 Mo Puerto Perez, sail to Suriqui, camp By road to Cuzco 3 22 Tu Tiquina to camp on east shore In Cuzco visiting archaeological sites 4 23 We Isla de la Luna and Isla del Sol Visit to Machu Picchu ruins 5 24 Th Cochabamba and back to La Paz Fly from Cuzco back to La Paz 6 25 Fr Lunch with Embassy staff and Guarachi, 3 ascend Charquini 7 Cocapata Climbing group (5) Cordillera Real Trekking group (7) 26 Sa Via Cochabamba to Tunari, camp Via Sorata to Cocoyo and camp 8 27 Su Establish Laguna Chacapata base Sarani pass to near Chajolpaya 9 28 Mo Jatuncasa, Co. Cajonani Khasa Negruni pass to Negruni lake 10 29 Tu Explore to Willipanki, Cerro Torre Rio Amawaya Jawira, Janqu Quta 11 30We Establish Willipanki camp Quinasini Quta to near mine track 12 1 July Willipanki I, Sankhayuni Mina Fabulosa, Chiqapa Jawira 13 2 Fr Willipanki Il climbed Mina Fabulosa, Chiqapa Jawira 14 3 Sa Khocha Khasa, Malpaso Cerro Nigruni corries 15 4 Su Cerro Torre, Pututuni, Co.Chiquapa pass, L.Alka Quta 16 5 Mo Jatuncasa circuit, Malpaso near Co.Wawanaki, Juri Quta 17 6 Tu Poma Apacheta near Co.Kuntui,