400km or 250miles tU d t (111(10, I

Abstract: During June and July 1999, twelve members of the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club visited Bolivia. Following a week of acclimatisation on the altiplano, five visited the Cocapata range near Cochabamba for exploratory rock climbing on granite peaks, while the remainder completed a two­ week trek in the Cordillera Real Subsequently all combined for an ascent of Sajama. Two members then explored the Cordillera Occidental. This report includes notes on planning, routes, personal accounts and further opportunities for climbing and trekking.

Contents: Introduction 4 Birds ofBolivia .42 Personnel and Logistics 7 Excursions 48 Cocapata 10 Conclusions 59 Cordillera Real 22 Achievements, Acknowledgements 61 Cordillera Occidental.. 34 Sources ofinformation 62

The YRCBulletin 3 Winter 1999 Introduction The Yorkshire Ramblers' Club's links with Bolivian mountaineering started in 1898 when honorary member, Sir Martin Conway, made the first ascent of Illimani's highest top (6402m 21ooofi) with two Swiss guides. Their local porters abandonned them on the ascent of this prominent peak which dominates the view from the city of La Paz at the southem end ofthe Cordillera Real (Conway, 1901, pI24). Conway later almost reached the summit of Ancohuma (6427m 21086fi) at the northem end of the Cordillera Real. Then in 1966 Tony Smythe climbed ten peaks', mostly first ascents, in the Illimani, Ruben Calderon

1 These traditional mountaineering ascents Ancohuma area with one or both of were made more tiring by penitentes and Dave Challis and Bob Hall of a long days out from Laguna Jacha Leche Bangor University team. Khotabasecamp. The ten ascents were: Yoka de Ancohuma, 19,873ft, 1stascent; That trip was during a generation long Kimsakolyo, 19,332ft, 1stascent; lull in YRe organised mountaineering Hankopiti I, 19,249ft, 2nd ascent; BuenaVista, 18,200ft, 1stascent; in the greater ranges. Later, the Club, Viluyo 2, 18,39Oft, 3rd ascent; after a series ofwell supported Alpine Taparacu, 18,867ft, 2nd ascent; meets, organised a successful Haltatawa, 18,370ft, possible 1stascent; expedition to the Apolobamba range, Nonte Triangulo, 18,609ft, 1stascent; north ofLake Titicaca by the Peruvian PicodeLinea, 18,40Oft, 1stascent; and border, in 1988 (Smith, 1989). This Kunotawa, 19,622ft, 1stascent.

The YRC Bulletin 4 Winter 1999 Apolobamba: Hunancuni & Cololo from Quello

attracted six members and created two and Chile predominantly attracting first ascents of new routes on peaks­ older, retired members. The vast which had previously had few visits majority ofthose interested wanted to (Brain, 1999, p17,75). That expedition's spend a month, rather than six weeks, logistical support was provided by on the trip and preferred to trek Bernardo Guarachi who was, this without vehicle support through year, being honoured in Bolivia by the attractive peaks and meet up as a isssue of a stamp commemorating his singlegroup for part ofthe time. ascent ofEverest. Consequently the expedition itinerary was in four parts: acclimatisation; trekking in the Cordillera Real or exploratory rock climbing in the Cordillera Cocapata [Echevarria, 1997) near Cochabamba; a combined trip to Sajama; and finally, for those who remained, an exploration of the Cordillera Ocidental and the Puno de Atacama. These lasted about one, two, one and two weeks respectively. There followed a series of Himalayan The Apolobamba, Quimsa Cruz and treks and climbs over the next ten Southern Cordillera Occidental were years until, by the late 1990s, groups rejected as the main trekking and ofmostly newly retired members, with climbing as being, respectively, forty or so years experience, were already visited, unlikely to bear many heading out to Nepal once or twice a significant new classical routes and year. too remote and widely spaced. 1995 saw a YRC party of sixteen Support was negotiated, several trekking and climbing in the Jugal months in advance with the La Paz Himal including a younger group of based agency, Andean Summits, with members. These active younger whom a suitable trekking route members concentrated increasingly on through the Cordillera Real was international caving trips over the next negotiated. Portering proved much few years. This, and their careers, more reliablethan a century earlier. resulted in a 1998 call for members Information on the Cocapata was interested in another hip to Bolivia supplied by Evelio Echevarria to supplement his article in the Alpine

2 Cololo, 5915m / 19,406ft, west ridge Journal. route and Nevado Nubi,571Om / 18,734ft south-west ridge.

'The YRC Bulletin 5 Winter 1999

Personnel: Logistics: Flights were booked nine months in advance with American Airlines from Cordillera Cocapata, Climbing: Heathrow to Miami then Miami to La Paz, This reduced Conway's forty David Hick four day journey out from London to Tim Josephy La Paz [Conway 1901, p69) to just Duncan Mackay twenty hours including a stroll round Rory Newman Miami's fashionable art deco area. Michael Smith

Cordillera Real, Trekking: David Atherton The local agent provided all trekking Derek Bush and base camp gear and support, local Albert Chapman transport and food. They also booked lan Crowther hotels and tourist excursions for the acclimatisation period. We took out lain Gilmour two Club Ultra Quasar tents, three Alan Kay MSR®Dragonfly stoves for use Alan Linford beyond base camp and eight climbing David Smith ropes. Our base camps were supported by a cook and, in the case of the larger camps, an assistant. The food carried Cuzco, Arequipa and Sorata into the camp was supplemented by Christine Marriott small amounts purchased locally as available and by a resupply after a week when the guides changed over.

Support from Andean Summits Jose Camarlinghi, guide Javier Thellache, guide Vrrginia(Vicky), cook Arles, cook Joseph Barclay Pentland (1827), a Rebecca, assistant cook Briton who was the first person to map the Cordillera Real, was allowed Rafael Save, driver £650, including £200 for books and George, driver instruments, for his eighteen month survey of Bolivia on behalf of the Juan Carlos, driver/aspirant guide British government. In 1988, the Mario Quespe Mendosa, boatman Apolobamba trip cost members about £1300 including incidental costs in the field but excluding personal equipment. This time the expedition,

The YRC Bulletin 7 Winter 1999 with its increased level of support, Since our 1988 visit the transport cost about £2000. That comprised infrastructure and mountaineering roughly of: support service had improved £550 air fare, considerably. The publication of £1200 logistical support, Yossi Brain's climbing guide, earlier £200 on excursions and this year, makes the peaks accessible £50 administration and to a wider range of mountaineers. communal gear. Bolivia would appear to be set for an expansion ofmountaineering activity. The trekking routes through the Cordillera Real are now well established and a variation, selected on the advice of the agent, was planned Why Bolivia? to provide an opportunity to ascend a Invariably the first reaction of anyone peak ifall was going well. told of our plans was to ask ''Why For the climbers, photographs of the Bolivia?" We saw the main Cordillera Cocapata, supplied by advantages as abundant impressive Echevarria, indicated that the steepest peaks, a lack of climbers, peak fees continuous rock was to be found on and bureaucracy, clear blue skies the west side of Jatuncasa (Cerro almost guaranteed daily, a rich and Jatun Khasa on the map). unfamiliar culture, general stability, Consequently the largest lake in the reasonable safety, inexpensive local area, Lago Calzonani, only a few support and ease of travel to the kilometres away, appeared to provide mountains. The air fare costs, sparse a good base. This lake is a few, uphill flora and fauna, less well known kilometres from the nearest road and mountains and the impossibility of several hours steep and rough driving gradually acclimatising are significant from the city ofCochabamba. disadvantages.

The YRCBulletin 8 Winter 1999 The expedition consisted not of a single party but groups which formed at different times to visit different areas. It would be tedious to record who was where at each stage but the following outlines the main movements.

June Day 19 Sa Fly Heathrow - Miami - Bolivia 1 20 Su Arrive in La Paz and remain there for orientation/recovery 2 Titicaca sailing group (3) Cuzcu group (9) 21 Mo Puerto Perez, sail to Suriqui, camp By road to Cuzco 3 22 Tu Tiquina to camp on east shore In Cuzco visiting archaeological sites 4 23 We Isla de la Luna and Isla del Sol Visit to Machu Picchu ruins 5 24 Th Cochabamba and back to La Paz Fly from Cuzco back to La Paz 6 25 Fr Lunch with Embassy staff and Guarachi, 3 ascend Charquini 7 Cocapata Climbing group (5) Cordillera Real Trekking group (7) 26 Sa Via Cochabamba to Tunari, camp Via Sorata to Cocoyo and camp 8 27 Su Establish Laguna Chacapata base Sarani pass to near Chajolpaya 9 28 Mo Jatuncasa, Co. Cajonani Khasa Negruni pass to Negruni lake 10 29 Tu Explore to Willipanki, Cerro Torre Rio Amawaya Jawira, Janqu Quta 11 30We Establish Willipanki camp Quinasini Quta to near mine track 12 1 July Willipanki I, Sankhayuni Mina Fabulosa, Chiqapa Jawira 13 2 Fr Willipanki Il climbed Mina Fabulosa, Chiqapa Jawira 14 3 Sa Khocha Khasa, Malpaso Cerro Nigruni corries 15 4 Su Cerro Torre, Pututuni, Co.Chiquapa pass, L.Alka Quta 16 5 Mo Jatuncasa circuit, Malpaso near Co.Wawanaki, Juri Quta 17 6 Tu Poma Apacheta near Co.Kuntui, Chiyara Quta 18 7 We Nido de Condores (Sankhayuni) Cerro Ventanani (Austria) 19 8 Th Decamp to Pefias Condoriri Glacier 20 9 Fr Sipe Sipe and on to La Paz to Tuni and La Paz 21 10 Sa Reorganising in La Paz 22 Sajama group (9) Others 11 Su Drive to Sajama, camp nr thennals LaPaz 23 12 Mo Establish base, 4800m La Paz 24 13 Tu high camp at col, 5800m Embassy reception with Blashford-Snell 25 14 We ascend Sajama, 6542m, to base Depart for UK 26 15 Th Decamp to near thennals, geysers Cordillera Occidental (2) 27 16 Fr Sajama village, return to La Paz Chilean Lacua National Park, Putre 28 17 Sa day in La Paz Zapahuira, Belen, Saxamar, Cuya 29 18 Su Fly La Paz, Santa Cruz to Miami Huara, Humberstone, Iquique, Pacific 30 19 Mo Heathrow Tocopilla, Calama 31 20 Tu Peru Group (2) Chuquicamata, Chiu Chiu, El Tatio 32 21 We Cuzco Geysers, San Pedro de Atacama 33 22 Th Pisac and Urumbamba near Licancabur, L.Verde, L.Colorada 34 23 Fr Visit to Machu Picchu ruins Laguna Caiiapeto Vo1can Ollague 35 24 Sa fly to Arequipa ascend V.Ollagiie, Salar de Chiquana 36 25 Su Colca Cayon Salar de Uyuni, Uyuni, Isla de Pescadores 37 26 Mo Pacific Coast Tahua, Jirira, Salinas, Challapata 38 27 Tu Arequipa to Puno Poopo, Cala Cala, Oruro, La Paz 39 28 We Puno day in La Paz 40 29 Th LaPaz La Cumbre, Apacheta Chukura 41 30 Fr day in La Paz Fly La Paz, Santa Cruz to Miami 42 31 Sa Fly La Paz, Santa Cruz to Miami Heathrow 43 1 Aug Heathrow 44

The YRC Bulletin 9 Winter 1999 Cocapata preference to Tunari or Cochabamba and we have followed their example. Our attention was drawn to this area The group lie north-west of as having the "potential to be a rock Cochabamba and south-east of the climbers' playground ... 'and whoever Quimsa ClUZ. Peak names are goes there will have the whole range problematic. Map names do not to himself' (Bchevarria, 1997, p158). coincide with much of the current This matched the YRC approach local usage. This report uses names perfectly and the lack of previous shown on the IGM maps except for visits by foreign mountaineers, since Jatun Khasa, or Herzog's Incachaca, Hoek in 1903 and Herzog in 1908 and which is referred to as Jatuncasa. 1911, suggested that an exploratory climbing venture would yield new The climbers were: routes and peaks. David Hick Tim Josephy Duncan Mackay Rory Newman Michae1 Smith Their average age was 48 years. We spent two weeks in the area during late June and early July after a week of acclimatisation. We were supported by a cook, Virginia1, and a guide who negotiated with local people, ". organised the logistics and joined us The Germans Henry Hook, 1878-1951, and Theodor Herzog, 1880-1961 on ascents. It was also the guides first visit to the area and they knew of no Yossi Brain, outspoken as ever, other visits there apart from some commented "no snow, shite rock, why viscacha hunters and mountain bikers bother?" (Dec. 1997, e-mail) but we making excursions from Cochabamba. preferred to rely on first-hand accounts such as Herzog's "grey Our journey to the range from La Paz jagged ridge", "bizarely formed took a w1101e day, from 9am to sunset peaks", "steep rocky homs" and at 6pm, first south almost to Oruro "extraordinarily impressive black then east over the Cordillera Oriental tower" (1913) and Echevarria's via the Pongo pass. Refuelling then "excellent grey granite" and ''long, turning north-west at the plaza in steep slabs of smooth rocks" (1998, correspondence). 1 Virginia was impressive. She not only Studying the 1:50000 maps, sent out catered efficiently despite having just one beforehand from La Paz, confirmed paraffin stove but had, with other expeditions, climbed Illimani and Huayna the extent of the range, its relative Potosi (threetimes), and, whennot employed ease of access, the steepness of the as a cook, knits garments for sale. She spun slopes and the number of peaks. wool at a tremendous speed. Her meals were While these maps depict permanent hearty, tastyand uncomplicated. We tookto snowfie1ds they do not now exist nor searching for fossils or birds rather than did they in Herzog's time. arriving back at camp mid-afternoon since any early return prompted Virginia to rustle The name Cordillera de Cocapata up a large bowl of salad for you, making it was used by Herzog and Echevarria in impossible to dojusticeto the evening meal.

The YRCBulletin 10 Winter 1999 Quillacollo, on the outskirts of Close to the Tahua Cruz road junction Cochabamba, initially flat fields lead north of Huayna Tunari, headtorches into a narrow steep-sided valley rising were needed as we unpacked and from around 2500m to 4400m in erected the American designed, 20km. As most of the ascent is over Taiwanese manufactured, Walrus tents just 5km as the crow flies, the and sorted out their arrangements of unsurfaced road zig zags as much as a interlocking and criss-crossingpoles. kilometre.

The YRC Bulletin 11 Winter 1999 . On Sunday, June 27, we rose well Jatuncasa before dawn for an early breakfast to give time to take the gear to Pefias at Jatuncasa's slabs looked brown, clean and warm in the morning sunlight the far side of the range and leave across the lake. Just a couple of enough time for the vehicles to be kilometres away they were an obvious drivenback to La Paz. first objective. Tiro, David and Rory were driven Tim and David climbed close to the round to the west and dropped off at left-hand edge while Javier and I took Barn, at a hut by the road, due south of a more direct line partly along cracks. Jatuncasa, They intended to cross the The vertical rise of the slab was pass between Lagunas Margarita and measured as 300m though the 40° Azeroni to reach, Laguna Calzonani, angle and a short ridge behind the locate a suitable campsite and meet us slab's top to the true summit behind at Pefias village. However, as they brought the climbing to 500m approached the supposed pass, the crags by the pass, viewed from below, against the rising sun, looked impassable and an alternative was found. This yomp of several miles, with :full packs, clockwise round the whole Jatuncasa-Sankhayuni group meant they arrived at the camp area shortly before the first of our two, horse assisted carrys up from Pefias around noon. Meanwhile Duncan explored the ridges ofHuayna Tunari. Michael and Javier had taken photographs from the Jatuncasa's 450m slab seen from the south side ofthe range and then from north with the two routes marked. the east as they had all driven round to Even the smallest horizontal cracks in Pefiasfor Ham the lower half of the slab were The second carry up is completed by scattered with viscacha droppings. 4pm and we establish the camp in and These dog-sized rodents can scoot up around a pinfold by Laguna much steeper rock than this at Chacapata. There is no running water incredible speeds - they need to too, and the area is grazed by alpaca. to avoid being shot. Andean geese often fed on a boggy The climbing was around VD with area above or swam on the larger lake poor protection on infrequent shallow with Ruddy Duck, Caracara were excavated cracks. Typically, a 45m frequent visitors and condors were runout would have one runner. A seen daily. A lizard lived under a rock short descent from the top ofthe slab by the camp and another visitor, a along a shattered ridge and past a vole, was onlyfound, freshly squashed tottering gendarme brought us to the under the mess tent floor when we summitin four hours. broke camp. . ~ There was no sign on the summit of a \ '" / . previous visit and no cairn on either of ,. ~'I the two tops. Yet this was supposed , "

The YRC Bulletin 12 Winter 1999 to be Herzog's Incachaca. Compare approached by this with the description of nearby Duncan and ROlY on IV Sankhayuni (see notes below) and it Ist July, via two is likely that these were the first chimney-gullies at ascents ofJatuncasa. about D-. On it was an old tumble-down The descent looked uninviting in all cairn and Rory is directions and was a dangerously convinced that this steep and loose scramble offthe back was the summit reached by Herzog, and to the north, requiring three and therefore that our ascent of abseils in the lower part. Jatuncasa was a first ascent. Michael was stricken with a stomach Peaks IT and V (see ridge map) of bug and, weakened, trudged slowly Sankhayuni were climbed by YRC back to camp arriving well after dark. parties and involved rock climbing. A first ascent ofIT was made by Tim and Sankhayuni Jose in four pitches of unprotected climbing on slabs similar to those on Cerro Sankhayuni is a prominent Jatuncasa. Their descent involved group of peaks above Laguna three abseils down a loose couloir. Calzonani. Four peaks and some lesser Peak IV was already cairned, and was tops enclose a complex come. A therefore probably the other peak lower, fifth peak extends towards climbed by Herzog, Peak ill was Jatuncasa, separated by a lower col. climbed by Rory and Duncan and From most angles it is difficult to tell involved a very pleasant scramble up a which peak is which, or to see how long section of easy-angled slabs on they relate to each other. its north-east ridge, and a loose, Our original information was that shattered summit ridge. It was Jatuncasa had been climbed by Herzog apparently unclimbed. A traverse of but there was no sign of a previous the complete ridge of Sankhayuni visit and no cairn. The highest would be a very serious undertaking summit of Sank-hayuni, however, was because ofthe rock.

Cerro Jatuncasa, Nido de Condores (just left of centre) and the Sankhayuni peaks from the east

The YRC Bulletin 13 Winter 1999 Nido de Condores avoided by a shorter climb starting at the side of the slab and taking Condor's Nest was our fanciful name grooves, ledges and slabs to the crest for the outlyer of Sankhayuni, top V, then turning left to the true summit. which, from basecamp, sat between Footprints crossed the col. Jatuncasa and the Sankhayuni tops. Each morning in the first couple of Returning the next day Jose, Michael hours ofsunlight the and Tim climb this route in three very tip ofthis peak pitches but end up on the wrong glistened white. pinnacle and have to abseil back down What else could that two of them From this unexpected be but the droppings vantage point they see that the summit round the nest or is composed of stacked blocks and perch of some bird? What bird other clouds passing behind can be seen than a condor would select such an through a tunnel between the huge exposed spot for an eyrie? The name granite blocks. Nido de Condores, stuck. The 150m climb to the summit was On July 6 the dawn sky was unusually made in three pitches at VD+ mostly cloudy but David, Jose, Michael and with good stances on terraces which Tim walk west up the Quebrada broke up the climbing. There were no Sankhayuni. The upper part of the signs of any previous ascent. The valley is littered with large boulders rock here was the best in the area. and shadowed by the vertical, cold Near the top our attention is caught by and forbidding southern crags of rockfall all around. Nothing too Sankhayuni. Tim, his attention dramatic but stones clattering down in attracted by swarming flies, found a the distance. boulder shelter in this area, which stank of cats and there were puma As for the condor's nest, it turned out spraints, fox prints and bones pierced to be pale grey lichen covering a with teeth marks. couple of metres of slab below the summit but angled to catch the No sooner had the four stood under morning .sun, the steep slab at the foot of this peak than it began to snow. After sheltering under a boulder in Cerro Poma Apacheta increasing snowfall and a freezing wind for half an hour a retreat was Cerro Poma Apacheta: the name made to the bottom ofthe high come. implies that this is a suitable mountain The weather gods were in taunting from which to contact the Apus or mood and the sun came out and mountain spirits. It is a high ridge cleared the peak of its snow as we running WSWIENE, with four watched. Jose and Michael slogged summits, that at the WSW end being back up to the peak for a closer look the lowest and separated from the and by heading right onto the col other three by an obvious col. The gained a better viewpoint. two ENE summits (joint highest) are separated from the third by a It was clear that the intended route prominent overhanging gap - these would have necessitated a traverse of two appeared unclimbed: the lower several false saw-tooth like tops to summits were cairned. There is a fairly gain the true summit. These could be continuous slabby buttress on the

The YRC Bulletin 14 Winter 1999 ENE end of the ridge. Rory by Rory and Duncan, on 5th July, approached from the SE, on 6 July, in approaching over the llama pass, then a snowstorm; this fortunately cleared by an ascending traverse up the north as he reached the ridge via a flank. A short gully.led to the loose grass/scree rake at what turned out to but easy summit ridge. be the col. The WSW summit was reached via an easy scramble, the central one involved steeper rocks at Pututuni about D-. An interesting traverse on Cerro Pututuni is an extensive and snowy ledges led to a loose stone complex mountain with four chute/gully which gave access to the significant ridges, each with several gap between the two highest tops (and distinct peaks, lying north-west of an even more interesting stone-fall). Cerro Willpanki. Two of the ridges The tops were reached by easy run east-west in parallel, enclosing a scrambling, and Rory caimed them steep hidden valley with a llama pass The ridge is very loose and the flanks at its western head. A third, lower quite broken, but the ENE buttress ridge runs south-west then south; its seems sounder and might give decent south-western part was not explored climbing, particularly as a relatively but looked very much like one of the easy descent exists. rock ridges on Arran. The fourth ridge runs north-west and includes the '-- \,.. - - \. - ...... ~ --~ ~ -~ - -- ::---= highest peak on the mountain. """,----,",,- ~. ------'..:. :~ ----.~ ----- <; -- ..;. - - --- The massif was partially explored on ~ ~,~ ~ 1 .,- '(. - (. -_- -.:....-.. .f•\1' . -- ~ ,:~: :t£-~4- !..~""-~, »> ~ --..... / "tt'f.~\,./" 'T 4th July by Duncan and Rory from a ... : /~ ~ • : ,. • 'r .• ' I ,/. 4,f:;.r·...... { v camp below the west flank of Poma Apacheta's profile seen from the south Willpanki. Unfortunately, they chose a day with extensive cloud and strong Cerro Malpaso wind. This made navigation awkward, as the tops were intermittently in Cerro Malpaso (as it appears on the cloud, and the lack of sunshine meant map) is a ridge south of Willpanki, that a lot of the rock was verglassed. separated from it by a pass accessible They approached from the south; this to llamas. The ridge runs flank of the mountain is made up of approximately east-west with a peak slabby broken buttresses separated by at its east end near the pass, and a steep gullies. They followed an icy higher central summit. A local farmer gully with Moderate excursions onto told us that the peak is misnamed on the buttress to its light (east). This led the map. He believed this ridge to be to the ridge west ofpeak IX (see ridge part of the Willpanki massif, and map). They scrambled easily up the suggested that the un-named peaks to peak, then followed the hidden valley the south-west climbed on 30 June between the parallel east/west ridges were the real Malpaso. The east peak to its head. An icy Moderate scramble ofthe map's Malpaso was climbed by north led to peak IV; through breaks Rory and Duncan on 3rd July by a in the cloud we could see apparently very pleasant scramble at about D­ higher peaks to east and north-west. from the south-west, following an The continuation ridge east looked obvious gully, then a slabby ridge. very icy and awkward, so instead we The central summit was climbed, again made a traverse on scree to another

The YRC Bulletin 15 Winter 1999

were considerable amounts of poor on the butress (4585m) and followed rock and sections of the route were the rib, broken in places by scree, to graded Severe. Reaching the top via an obvious tower (4865m) before slabs, it was obvious that this was traversing a narrow crest to the clearly the higher of the two tops summit at about 4915m Loose despite the opposite being marked on material in gullies was a hazard, good the map. There being no record of belays were few and short walls gave any previous ascent and no cairn on the hardest moves, some Severe. the summit, despite building on being Only close to the tower was the the local habit, this was claimed as a climbing directly lit by sunlight so the first ascent ofWillpanki I. rock was cold and some ledges snow covered. This is undoubtedly a first climbing ascent of the peak but there is a straightforward walking route from the north and a large, well-built cairn indicates regular ascents. That route was used in descent to reach the steep open couloir leading east and back to the camp. Both climbers were so tired after this climb that they slept straight through the long night - a rarity indeed. The Willpanki peaks give good views over to the Quimsa Cruz and Illimani. Willpanki II and I seen from Khocha Khasa The eastern flank is an obvious area to the west. The route on II is the ridge for further climbs ofhigher grade. forming the right-hand edge. On I the route / followed the nearer of the two ridges on the right descending the left hand skyline.

The ascent was only part of their problems though as the descent to the col between the two peaks required abseils despite the lack of suitable anchors.' A jammed rope further complicated matters. This descent of the north ridge and dropping into the couloir at the head ofthe come to the west, is not recommended. The return Khocha Khasa to camp was made late in the The peak under this map label was a afternoon and return to basecamp gentle one mile walk from our completed after dark. Willpanki camp. It gave good views David and Michael, on July 2, climbed into a deep-cut valley running into the the south-west ridge of Willpanki IT, Rio Pucarani. Steep, shattered crags the northern top. This route was fell to the south. David, Rory and about VD, 350m vertical rise and Michael made this ascent on July 3. about 500m of climbing took six David visited the summit three times hours. It started at the lowest point in search of a dropped compact camera.

The YRC Bulletin 17 Winter 1999 Cajonani Khasa were climbed, on 30th June, by Rory Two small uncaimed tops of Cerro and Duncan. The ridge is south of CajonaniKhasa, but south ofthe map Cerro Willpanki, west of Cerro Poma label, were climbed by Rory on 28th Apacheta and north of Chuli Chulini. June. Each involved a little mild All three peaks present steep scree scrambling on loose rock. He suspects faces to the east, and very steep that these had been previously climbed buttresses of rotten rock to the west, by llamasifnot by people. with caps of loose but continuous rock on their summits. The southern Cerro Torre peak ofthe three is the highest ofthe A short exposed climb on north-east range. Each was ascended by side protected this distinctive isolated struggling up the scree then mild barrel-shaped peak. The summit was scrambling up the summit rocks. The caimed. views, particularly from the highest summit, were extensive and Cerros del Lago Chuli Chulani impressive. The peaks appeared to be Three unnamed peaks forming a ridge unclimbed but the extensive scree running approximately north-south makes them rather unattractive.

The YRCBulletin 18 Winter 1999

We gather that there have been Tremor Shakes Cochabamba (Bolivian outbursts of civil unrest over Times, July 15, 1999). On our last day government plans to switch control of of climbing, at about three in the schools and teacher training to the afternoon, we had noticed extensive universities in a bid to improve rockfall on the opposite face and had standards. To prevent the wondered what the cause was. It mobilisation of demonstrators the must have been that reported militaryhave been called in to enforce earthquake measuring 3.9 on the a movement restriction order. Richter Scale with its epicentre Traditionally the teachers have actually in the Tunari mountain range. supported the general workers union, Thankfully it appeared to have caused COB, and, it appears, the favour was no damage or injury though it must being returned. A few times over the have had a psychological effect on the following weeks, when in La Paz we local people who suffered in the were to see well organised mass deadly 5.9 strength quake that hit the demonstrations by students bringing region on May 22, 1998, killing over a city centre traffic to a slow crawl for hundred and practically destroying hours at a time. Aquile and Colollo Grande to leave over 20000 homeless. It is possible On returning to La Paz we were to that what we experienced was merely read the newspaper headline Slight one ofover a thousand aftershocks.

This Cocapata report was compiled by Michae1 Smith and Rory Newman.

Visitors to base camp

Michae1 Smith on the top ofJatuncasa

The YRC Bulletin 20 Winter 1999 David Hick by the summit cairn of Willpanki II

Michael Smith and Tim Josephy on a false summit of Sankhayuni V, the Condor's Nest

The YRC Bulletin 21 Winter 1999 Cordillera Real where you can get so close to such a big mountain. The advanced camp The Cordillera Real was chosen as the (Campo Argentino) could just be seen trekking area for its simplicity of high on a glistening glacier. Two tiny access from La Paz, the attractiveness dots could be seen working up the of its peaks and availability of vast moraines below the glacier and experienced support. It provided all we began to have second thoughts. In of these and inspired the hardened, our state of acclimatisation, we might experienced trekkers with the spend the whole day grovelling about opportunities for further visits. in the moraines. On the opposite side Besides the trekking visit a few other of the pass we could see another, excursions were made into the Real smaller mountain. Yossi Brain's including a day ascent of Cerro excellent climbing guide gave Charquini [Biggar, p94) as part of the Charquini (5400m) a passing mention acclimatisation and a final-day walk (p143). Armed with the information from La Cumbre appraoching Cerro that the walk in was along an Wila Mankilisani (Biggar, p94/S) aqueduct, and with the help of a dotted line on a sketch map, we decided to give it a try. We soon Charquini Tim Josephy found the aqueduct and set offin fine style. Round the first corner we Duncan, Rory and I decided to use the stopped in astonishment. The spare day before we set off for the aqueduct, about two feet wide and Cocapata to go up and look at Huayna deep, with a twelve inch retaining Potosi (6088m), hoping to get as far as wall, snaked across a vertical cliff base camp. Jose provided us with a about 1500 feet high. Rejecting the vehicle and driver, and we set off early idea ofwalking in the channel because for the Zongo Pass. Once clear ofthe of the risk of frostbite later from wet dismal slums of El Alto, we took feet, we teetered along the rim. Far rough dirt roads past abandoned below, beyond the foot ofthe cliff the copper mines up towards the white ground dropped steeply to the track, cone ofHuayna Potosi. The views are where a"plume of dust marked a bus stunning: there can be few places negotiating the dizzy hairpins of the Zongo Pass. Occamonal ove~ hangs enlivened the proceedings by causing us to stoop, and we tried to ignore the feeling that a slip would probably precipitate us straight through the roofofthe bus. Once past the cliff the going was easy and we soon turned Charquini and Cerro Wila Mankilisani from the south-east up over moraine sketched by Michael Smith towards the glacier.

The YRC Bulletin 22 Winter 1999 A faint path made life easy, and we Trekking through the stopped at a pretty glacial tarn to put Cordillera Real Alan Kay on crampons. A few steep feet took us onto the perfect snow of the ''Many people who climb high (over glacier. We were all feeling the 8000jt - 250om) are fit on arrival but altitude now as we weaved between feel ghastly over the next couple of well defined crevasses towards a col. days, with headache, breathlessness, Clouds had been building for a time, insomnia, fatigue, poor appetite, and now visibility dropped in a light nausea anddizziness" snowstorm, We left the col and This quote from The Medical continued up mixed ground until Handbook for Climbers by Peter suddenly there was no more up. The Steele could hardly have been more summit was a pile ofblocks on a knife apt for some of the YRC party on edge ridge, with a terrific drop on the arrival at La Paz. The city lies, far side. Occasional rents in the cloud somewhat astonishingly, in a huge allowed views of wild mountainsides bowl-like valley at 3600m, but the and huge crags. airport is on the Altiplano which forms Our elation at having made the summit the rim at 4000m, and therefore all at over 17500 feet was tempered medical advice about acclimatisation somewhat by the sight of another has to be adjusted to these statistics. pinnacle, about 400 yards away, and The pilot ofour American Airlines jet apparently higher. Duncan (Mr did his bit to help us as we descended Gadget), produced a miniature towards the airport from our cruising clinometer and proved conclusively altitude of 37000ft in the last twenty that it was, in fact, lower. We set off minutes of the flight. He gradually down in high spirits and made good adjusted the cabin air pressure from time until Duncan announced that he 5000ft to 15000ft a case of had been suffering for some time with descending and ascending at the same headaches and nausea. He was by time. now feeling pretty bad and descending was not helping very much. Duncan's The trekking party comprised the nausea and lack of balance made the following: crossing of the aqueduct somewhat David Atherton exciting. We roped up and put him in DerekBush the middle, intending to throw Albert Chapman ourselves flat in the channel ifhe lost Ian Crowther his balance. He didn't, and we didn't lain Gilmour have to, so eventually we reached AlanKay relative safety where the steepness Alan Linford and eased. Here we found a plaque on the David Smith rock commemorating an Israeli who Their average age was 641;4 years and had attempted to ride a motorbike ages ranged from 62 to 71 years. across! He had not made it very far. Our trek in the Cordillera Real started Relaxing in the minibus on the way on 26th June, with a drive in 4 wheel back we felt pretty pleased with drive vehicles, scheduled to last eight ourselves. There is no doubt the best hours but which in fact took ten days are always the unplanned ones. hours. From La Paz we drove up on to the altiplano, through initially

The YRC Bulletin 23 Winter 1999 dreary scenery, but eventually we five days of help and instruction by turned towards the hills, and lunched Jose before all of us could both erect on a ridge high above the town of and dismantle these wretched tents. Sorata. A maze of interconnecting So at last we were able to start our ridges, some covered with luscious much planned, much discussed vegetation, shifting clouds and varying traverse ofthe Cordillera Real. Day 1 light made this a delightful lunch spot. was suitable for an introduction to We descended to Sorata and spent a trekking in the Andes - a gradual short while looking round the centre ascent ofthe valley behind Cocoya to ofthis beautiful town. It is at a mere the Sarani Pass at 4500m, along fairly 8800ft in height, is therefore warmer well graded paths. The valley was than La Paz, and there is a feeling of brown with winter vegetation, but the mild affluence about the place. The view from the pass was of tantalising town centre and palmtree lined square snow covered peaks in the Chiaroco are similar to some small towns in Massif Jose pointed out three Spain, a clear reminder of its colonial condors and an eagle high above the past. Sorata merits more time, and valley, the first of regular sightings in with hindsight we should have stayed this part ofthe trek. there overnight, and perhaps located its "Ristorante Italiano", reputedly the A few ofthe ''hares'' in the party got best (perhaps the only) Italian too far ahead and subsequently wished restaurant in South America. they hadn't - perhaps a useful lesson in this remote terrain for maintaining We had to press on, however, to get adequate group contact. to the village of Cocoya where the trek was to start. Leaving Sorata and Derek was still recovering from a the valley ofthe Rio San Cristobel, the stomach upset, and David A was road abandoned any attempt at beginning to show signs of mild remaining horizontal, and for the next altitude sickness, so progress was four hours the vehicles were either slow on the steep descent from the ascending or descending on ever pass. We arrived at our campsite near diminishing tracks at angles between Chajolpaya in daylight, but in drizzle 20 and 30°, with sharp hairpin bends, thick enough to require waterproofs mist and thin rain thrown in for good for the one and only time on trek. It measure. added an urgency to the erection of the oddly shaped ''Walruses''. On arrival at Cocoya, the end of the road in every conceivable way, Jose, On day two we headed for the our agent and guide for the next four Negruni Pass, a climb of 900m. on a days, handed out our tents for rough scrambly sort of path. It was erection. Most of us have enough not easy to discern the direction of experience at this job, and can put up travel because of the many spurs, almost any tent, or so we thought, but hanging valleys and boulder fields the American made "Walrus" tents around, but gradually we gained defeated us all. Imagine being given a height. A short rocky descent brought bundle of thick knitting needles and a us to an intermediate col, our lunch sheet ofnylon, and being told to make spot, with views back towards a tent; throw in the poor fading light Chajolpaya, and over to the wild and drizzle, and you might be able to upper part of the valley. After lunch visualise how we felt. It took four or we applied ourselves to the long

The YRC Bulletin 24 Winter 1999 arduous grind to the top of the haughty appearance, as they literally Negruni Pass. The pass was just clear look down their noses at the smaller, of snow but glass hard ice led human species. At the same time they immediately from the pass to the seem quite dainty, but they can attractive peaks ofNegruni Chico and apparently spit 5m at anything that Negruni Grande. Fortunately on the troubles them, and can also kick descent from the pass we were able to sideways - obviously an animal to circumvent most, though not all ofthe admirefrom a distance. ice, but without ice axes at this stage Our campsites and consequently the of the trek, some care was needed length ofthe daily stages were always before we got to ice free rocks. dictated by availability of water and We had struggled a bit on the final flat dryland, and we had a choice next pull to the pass, but we had, ofcourse, day of either a long trek or a shorter not merely climbed 900m, we had one of about four hours, and we ascended from 4000m to 4900m, a decided on the latter. The nearer site respectable feat on the second day of was apparently sheltered by a few the trek. It had taken us just over four trees and bushes and was relatively hours. low down, and this last point was Descent to the campsite was through a important, as a further low camp was mixture of scree, then a marshy area, needed to help with acclimatisation. finally the path traversed the hillside We went down valleypassing by a few high above a scree choked lake, quite adobe buildings and small farmsteads attractive with the patterns of stones where potatoes were spread out on formed by the old inflow and outflow the ground for freeze drying. channels. We arrived at our campsite Potatoes seemed to be the only crop, by Negruni lake almost four hours and they were grown in the most after leaving the Negruni Pass, and in unlikely places, with patches more often than not high up on steep sided the last few minutes of daylight. It had been a long hard day, especially valleys - presumably the aspect of the for our two unwell members, but on slope as well as drainage ofthe potato the bright side, arriving late with the patches was important for their rearguard, I found that one of the growth. We saw people only from llama drivers had kindly erected the some distance, except ofone occasion wretched tent for me. as we rounded the corner ofa building and came across two small girls who Llamas were our "beasts of burden" were playing, the elder girl, perhaps for the entire trek, though we had eight or nine years old looking after three separate teams of them At the younger child who was about Negruni Lake the first team returned three or four years. Both girls were to Cocoyo, and the second team dressed in clean smart dresses with joined us, augmented by a pony and a their hair carefully combed, and faces donkey. The llama drivers for this were clean, bright and inquisitive, as team were three amiable brothers who well they might be when a gang of helped with tents, carrying kit bags, strange gringos turns up in the valley. and were delightful company. There We could only "speak" to them in sign were about twenty llamas in the team, language, but smiles can be very each able to carry a load of 20 kgs. communicative, and the elder girl let With relatively small heads atop long us take her photograph; it was necks, the llamas have a superior, eventually too much for her younger

'The YRC Bulletin 25 Winter 1999 sister, however, and she took fiight, again), over the main ridge, and then a hardly surprising, really! long pleasant descending traverse into the next main valley, the valley ofthe Our campsite lived up to its River Amawaya Jawira. This valley description and we were able to relax forms one of the very few ''through and wash previously unwashed bodies routes" in the Cordillera Real, and a and clothes in the nearby stream. The rough jeep track comes in from the llama drivers and our kitchen staff did south west and eventually links up likewise, and clearly appreciated an with the road to La Paz. Jose had easy day. As the afternoon progressed arranged for a vehicle to meet us at cloud drifted into our valley from the the highest point of the track; our Yungas, a reminder that we were not rendezvous was successful, and we far from the Amazon forest, but at received fresh supplies of food dusk the cloud melted away. ' mcludmg. . bananas which were As we prepared to get into our tents immediately pounced upon. and snuggle into our four season We also had a change ofguide here as sleeping bags, the llama drivers merely Jose had to return to La Paz to go on covered themselves with a llama skin to our climbing group, and his lay on the ground and slept - yet replacement was Juan Carlos, an another oflife's lessons in humility. amiable young man of28 years. Just before turning in I looked up at Carlos started in the afternoon in a the Milky Way in all its splendour, and way which was to be repeated the Southern Cross; there was the occasionally, namely steeply uphill, occasional shooting star, then and fast. We soon slowed him down, suddenly a vivid streak of bright however, for the terrain was rough orange light flashed across the sky and and broken, and we were heading into disappeared from sight behind a high a high hanging valley the entrance to ridge - possibly a piece ofspace debris which was not particularly obvious burning out in the Earth's atmosphere. from below. Some of us had much The stillness of our mountain valley trouble with this slope and as we was complete, not a sound could be gradually gained height a thin playful heard, and the night was full ofpeace. type of mist began to form. As we It is, I suppose, a form of poetic neared the lip of the valley we were justice that a short day is immediately treated to the most superb aerial followed by a long day, and that is display of the trip when five condors how it turned out for us. A long flying low, just about ridge height slanting rise up the valley side on a dipped and darted about on th~ dusty slender path brought us into a thermals with obvious enjoyment, and hanging valley where more potatoes two or three smaller birds attempted were laid out for freeze drying. There to harry them along. The thin mist was ~ trickle of a stream in this valley, added a touch of unreality to it all, and It was dammed in one or two making one want to pinch oneself to places, with more potatoes placed in be reminded that we were deep in the the ponds to produce a type of BolivianAndes at 17000 feet. fermentedpotato, so Jose told us. We The sighting did wonders for morale, gradually wound round the sides of as did Carlos' comment that our the hanging valley, past incredibly campsite was 400m distant, not 400m steep cultivation patches (potatoes ofascent away.

The YRC Bulletin 26 Winter 1999 boulders of the lip, a view of distant ridges merging into one another in the late afternoon light. Far distant were the thicker clouds of the Amazon jungle. In this narrow valley the sunlight was lost early, and it soon became dark and cold. Our onward route was ever upwards .-7 from Achacachi lllampu and La Paz to the top of our hanging valley, • A followed by a rough scrambly descent Ancohuma. to a large lake, the Qinasini Quta. A. This was one ofthose spots where a sensibleperson just stops and silently takes in all the surrounding countryside. Blue sky, dramatic mountains, shimmering lake, good company; is there anywhere a more delightful combination? On the lake

I were two Andean geese, a I ,,. worthwhile addition to our bird list. .).'1 l( Southwards we went, past other \ A. , Negruni lakes, over a 5100m pass, then a long :,4- , descent on scree beside crumbling ',Ax cliffs to a valley bottom campsite at " , the junction ofthree sizeable valleys. lA. +c:=>-/..--_ ....,.-).. Ridges of jet black rock on three ~ ( sides looked like enlarged versions of , lA. lA. lA. ' the Black Cuillin or An Teallach, and ;, A-_ are almost certainly unclimbed. .... ' '\, lA. ./ We were close to a track leading to ,.._'>/:: •.. the Mina Fabulosa and we followed '}A this track next day until we came in A. A. A. Cerro sight of the mine some 300m below .....~..>\ t.~'J{~~~ Mina Fabulosa us - just the usual heap of waste material to see and nothing else, ~.. ~ }~cerr: Chiqapa though crucially there was a vehicle . ..: Cerro A. IA.(IA. Ventanani track leading from the mine Cerro Wawanaki~ j( A ~A\.,_ southwards through the Cordillera to .Condoriri La Paz, some four hours drive away. L siA A. f-to " .,.-., A. This had to be a short day, and at Patamanta /J and LaPaz ~ 1.30pm we camped in the valley of the Chiqapa Jawira, about a mile to Milluni from the mine. Above us and to the The campsite was dramatic - a narrow south was the Cerro Chiqapa pass, at valley floor with just enough flat space 5100m, and known to be choked with for our tents, a tantalising ridge on snow and ice on its southern side; it three sides of us, and beyond the had been decided that whilst we rested

The YRC Bulletin 27 Winter 1999 Condoriri group with high steep peak beiug Cabeza del COUdO;:"5648';;~ next day, our three llama drivers had descended and were clear of the would climb to the pass and hack out snow and ice before we topped the a route for the llamas to -descend. pass. Llamas mayor may not appreciate beauty in their David A had developed a bad cold and surroundings, but we definitely did, throat infection, and hadn't been going and some ofus looked longingly at the well for a few days, and furthermore summit of Cerro Chiqapa, 300m or so he hadn't been able to acclimatise above the pass. There was no time to properly during the trip. Faced as we climb it, for steep ice, cornices and were with a succession oflonger days loose rock would have meant a detour ove~ high ice covered passes, he of two or three hours. We followed decided that he should return to La the pack animals down the head wall Paz to recover whilst there was an of the valley, and although the route opportunity to do so along the mine was straightforward, some care was track. Carlos therefore climbed high needed on the ice, and we lunched on the ridge to call La Paz on his beside a small, part frozen lake just mobile telephone, and requested a clear ofthe ice. Here one ofus (he'd vehicle. Thus at 5pm David left us on better remain anonymous) broke what turned out to be a six hour through the frozen crust at the lake journey to La Paz, and whilst this was edge and was lucky to struggle out undoubtedly the right decision for wet onlyto thigh height. him, it was nevertheless sad for our group to lose one member. A rough, and in places very wet descent into the teeth of a strong head Whilst we waited for the vehicle to wind brought us to camp at the arrive at the mine, some of us southern end of lake Alka Quta, the wandered round the adjacent ridges biggest lake we saw on trek. We had and comes, and in a high come at a change of llama team here, and the about 4700m beneath Cerro Nigruni, I old team, returning home in two days, suddenly found myself too close for had firstly to reverse yesterday's route comfort to three or four cows with a and re-ascend the 5100m ice bound frisky, defensive young bull in pass - anyone of us who previously attendance (surely a record height for thought little or nothing of humble bull), and I beat a hasty retreat. llamas, ponies and donkeys would by The llamas, pony and donkey beat us now have changed his mind. to the top of Cerro Chiqapa pass, and

The YRCBulletin 28 Winter 1999 'I.'. """""

Our route went eastwards across more members - it was a bit like the better roughly angled valley slopes to a pass parts of the European Alps, but a lot just north of Cerro Wawanaki, at higher, and with no crowds. Some of 5258m Carlos disappeared for a us climbed a peak to the west which while, but we followed the new llama acquired the name "Austria", but is I team down into a big rocky valley believe more correctly named Cerro beneath the pass, in terrain that looked Ventanani - 5408m; others took the like the roughest of the Rhinogs of opportunity to recover from a bout of North Wales, but on a gigantic scale. ''Delhi belly" which had affected Woe betide anyone who got lost here! everyone except lain G and Alan L. When Carlos reappeared we learned On day three these two took Carlos that he'd climbed higher to get a onto the glacier between the camp and strong enough signal to telephone his Condoriri and practised snow and ice girlfriendin La Paz! techniques. In traversing round to lake Juri Quta, The trek finished with a four hour our destination for the day, we walkout to Laguna Tuni, a large crossed wide scree slopes, made up reservoir, where the land cruisers were entirely of small stones arranged into waiting. Three hours later we were in lines by the process of frost heaving. La Paz, enjoying the luxury of hot So uniform were the patterns of the water and trying to remove the two lines that they looked as though a week accumulation of grime and gigantic comb had been used to form grease. them Juri Quta was one of the most beautiful campsites ofthe trip, a fairly long and narrow lake with the ice covered Cerro Janchallani forming an impressive backdrop. Overnight it Currency conversion snowed, adding even more beauty to Transactions could be made in either what was already a "chocolate box the national currency, New Peruvian picture". The snow delayed our Sols, Bolivianos (B$) or Chilean departure next morning, when we Pesos or, alternatively, in US Dollars faced yet another steep and rough (US$). One US$ was at this time ascent eastwards towards Cerro equivalent to approximately £O.62p, Kuntui, then a long descent 5.7S01s, 5.6B$ or 880Pesos. northwards over scree to Chiyara Quta, the site of the Condoriri base camp. So far our campsites had been very remote, devoid of any other trekkers, so it was now with a minor culture shock that we had to share our campsite with three other groups, all engaged in climbing on Condoriri or neighbouring peaks. We spent three days here, surrounded by peaks averaging 5500m, many ofthem within Holding a llamas ears at Condoriri camp to keep it still while it is loaded the ability of a number of YRC

The YRC Bulletin 29 Winter 1999 The Trials of a Pensioner but he went like a bomb throughout, on Trek Derek Bush partly I suspect because he wasn't too familiar with the route and he had to I'd got it all planned: trekking in the scout well ahead to make sure he got Andes with a maximumpass height of it right. Once or twice he was saved no more than 1650oft. Have a couple by timely whistles and shouts from ofdays rest in La Paz and then go out either Arles our cook or one of the and climb a straight-forward snow llama drivers. One afternoon he did peak even if it is over 21500ft. No get it wrong and this was after a problem! Done it all before (well particularly tiring morning, when we almost) on two previous trips to had crossed over a high pass. We had Nepal. What's more the food this trip to retrace our steps, a very tiring promises to be more to our liking. process for an already tired trekker. ''Dream on Bushy-boy" as Albert would say. The reality proved One morning towards the end of the somewhat different. trek I had to stop for a call of nature and was well behind. When I I should have been forewarned. Our eventually caught up I was put at the current President had said so. He had front immediately behind Carlos. been there in 1988. Trekking in Nepal There had been a light fall of snow in is thirty to forty years old whereas in the night and I set my own pace Bolivia it is in its relative infancy. encouraged by the President who was Almost always in Nepal except on its immediately behind. It was a measure high mountain passes the tracks are of my lethargy that although I was adequate but in Bolivia there are gasping for air there was a general stretches of steep hillside to negotiate buzz ofconversation as ifall my other where paths seemed non existent or of companions were out for a Sunday little use. Failure to lift your ski pole morning stroll on the riverbank. What or your feet over the high tussocky a turnoff grass and you were in deep trouble. It was akin to walking in Bowland only All sorts ofexcuses could be made for twice as steep and 14000ft higher. my condition. I'd had a bout of KE, the Keswick based adventure sickness and diarrhoea immediately travel company, described a similar prior to the trek but I got over this. trek as moderate to demanding, hardly Nearly all the other members had at a description the average YRC some stage on the trek the same member would view with trepidation. problem However although I had no appetite, I should have forced myself It was a blow to one's pride that to eat more because the food was almost every day I was "tail end excellent and there was no excuse for Charlie". We did not have the safety not partaking. It was no coincidence net, as in Nepal, ofhaving a Sherpa at that those who ate well went well; the the front ofthe party and one bringing two fittest trekkers Alan Linford and up the rear. You were on your own. lain Gilmour ate everything put in Carlos, our leader for the second part front ofthem. They also kept free of of the trek was less than half the age tummy upsets which may have been of even our "youngest" member. He due to them using their own drinking was too young and innocent to realise utensils throughout the trek, although what the ageing process does to a one can never generalise about these person! He was a thoroughly nice guy things.

The YRC Bulletin 30 Winter 1999 We spent the last few days of the trek at .Laguna Chiar Khota (Black Lake) height 15500ft which is the base camp for the Condoriri group of mountains. A magnificent situation. The next day most of the party ascended Pico Austria a relatively easy rock peak at just over 16400ft. I didn't make it, much to my disappointment and the day was only saved by Alan who persuaded Arles our excellent cook to make us a most delicious bacon and onion omelette for lunch. The following day I decided to try the peak on my own but just told the rest ofthe party I was going for a wander. As all YRC members will know there is something magical about walking on big mountains in solitude. The route goes up fairly· steeply to a high So what other reasons caused me to plateau which is then traversed to a struggle so often? Had my general scree slope. An ascent by a physical condition deteriorated so reasonable track brings you to a col much since the Rolwaling trek two perhaps a few hundred feet before the years ago? I must admit I had not summit. The only company I had been too active in the Spring and early were a group of horses grazing high Summer. Glen Etive was a washout on the plateau plus of course the well almost. I hadn't been to Ana~ ubiquitous llamas. I was almost at the but I'd done some jogging and had top ~f the scree slope when to my coped reasonably well at the high level surprise a young Bolivian moving camp week-end at Scoat Tarn where silently and swiftly caught me up. We we had a fairly hard day on the exchanged greetings although neither Saturday. When we got to Bolivia we of us knew a word of each others did all the right things regarding language. He must have been acclimatisation. We went to Peru and concerned about my lack of upward visited the Inca sites at Cuzco and progress as he stopped behindto make Machu Picchu. Their situations are sure I chose the correct one of several not as high as the Cordillera Real but alternative paths. At the col he was always between 8000ft and 10000ft. waiting for me and what little food I La Paz airport (El Alto) is about had, I shared with him, for which he 13300ft and the city where we were was grateful. We took a photograph staying some what lower at 11800. of each other with my camera, using However when we look at the trek the Cabeza de Condor as a backdrop. itself we started at the hamlet of (His snap turned out better than mine Cocoya just over 13000ft and we were - no comment needed.) He then at or above this height for the whole enquiredby signlanguage where I was of the thirteen days often going and I indicated down. I wish I switchbacking up to 16000ft plus, and had told him the summit of Pico down again in a day. Austria as I am sure he would have

The YRC Bulletin 31 Winter 1999 accompanied me. For some strange Western educated Indian leader reason I thought my friends below seemed to prefer the more Nepalese would be wonied about me. It version ofthe food served to us. showed how unwell I was! My However I digress. The more I write Bolivian friend then continued over the more it appears an apologia for the col and I thought that was the last being a first class wimp! The reader I would see ofhim. However he soon may think that I did not enjoy the trek. caught and passed me and he must They would be completely wrong. have reached the base camp at least an My own personal view was that it was hour before I anived. I had the the best I have ever been on. Most of thought that there must be dozens of us wished we had been thirty years potential Olympic athletes waiting to younger when a lot ofthe snow peaks be discovered in these parts of the we walked under or around would high Andes, given of course the have been climbed. Without hesitation correct diet and training routines! I would say to the younger climbing The interesting thing which occurred element in the Club if you want an to me over the trek was that all the excellent Alpine type holiday without Bolivians we met seem to be able to the crowds, with assured good eat European food without any weather and stable snow conditions problems. From what I observed both get yourselfto Bolivia. The base camp Arles and Rebecca our charming at Condoriri would be a good place to assistant cook plus an assortment of start. All you want is three to four llama drivers and porters all ate the weeks holiday, and you could do it food cooked for us. This was not the much cheaper than our somewhat case in Nepal where even Motup our exotic geriatric excursion.

Michael Smith and Duncan Mackay try the best eatery in Challapata, Bolivia

The YRC Bulletin 32 Winter 1999 5000 metres

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David Atherton

The YRC Bulletin 33 Winter 1999 Cordillera Occidental Sajama, 6542m A Novice on Sajama lain Gilmour If you asked a trekker of average YRC age if he would climb to over 21000 feet, the answer would usually be "No", but ifyou take advantage of YRC teamwork, all S01tS of things become possible. The Bolivian trip splendidly organised by Michael Smith and Alan Kay included a last week joint effort by climbers and trekkers to climb Sajama, Bolivia's highest peak. Both the climbers and trekkers had been active for two weeks at altitudes above the Altiplano (14000ft), and this had given a reasonable degree of altitude acclimatisation. We were glad to be David Hick & Duncan Mackay with Sajama accustomed to the height, and free behind. The route was near the left skyline. from AMS symptoms. party went for a swim in the hot After two weeks trekking, often water, although swimming at 14000ft crossing passes at 16000ft, it required is quite tiring. The tough wiry some determination to leave our altiplano grass grew in discrete clumps comfortable La Paz hotel, and set out with bare volcanic dust between them. again for Sajama, some 4 hours drive Herds of alpaca and llama wandered to the south of La Paz, in the desert throughout the area, tended by local near the Chilean border. We were folk from the few remote adobe again guided by Jose Camarlinghi of dwellings. Sajama peak lay to the east Andean Summits, and we motored ofus, and looking north we could see steadily in a heavily loaded Toyota an unclimbed snowy peak with a minibus and an offroad 4x4 car. Our massive summit tower of unstable first sight of Sajama was a tiny white rock. To the west ofus, two gigantic peak on the horizon, which grew in snow covered volcanoes attracted size to a massive white volcanic cone admiring glances, but the probable ten as we came closer. We drove into the hour trek to a possible base camp Sajama National Park, and registered tempered the enthusiasm of the at the reception office before camping climbers. To the south of us lay a at the hot springs a mile or so from range of snowy volcanoes, and in the Sajama village. crystal clear air one could see Our camp was at the end of a dirt occasional puffs' of volcanic dust track, near some volcanic hot springs, emerging from one ofthem. and conditions were semi-desert. Moving up to Base Camp, we walked Some of the keener members of the through the thin forest of small

The YRCBulletin 34 Winter 1999 shrubby queflua trees, the highest a rocky ridge. This ridge ascended forest on earth, which covers the past rock towers and eventually we lower slopes of the Sajama foothills. came to a small flat area above a Base Camp was in a wide flat basin at massive rock tower, which stands like 4600m, and our muleteers delivered a tooth on the volcanic cone of the the bags and tents in plenty oftime to mountain. This is probably the only enjoy the last of the afternoon suitable camp spot, since all other sunlight. The plan was to move up to parts appear to slope at the same High Camp the next day, with each general angle of some 35 to 40 climber carrying his own gear, but the degrees. tents and food being carried by When we arrived at High Camp, porters. The effects of gippy tummy 5600m, we were delighted to find that and chest infection had reduced our the porters had erected three of our numbers to Michael Smith, David four tents, and were busy digging a Hick, Duncan Mackay, Rory snow platform big enough for the Newman, Too Josephy, Alan Linford, remaining tent. We had a splendid lain Gilmour, and our guide, Jose little camp with tents on three levels. Camarlinghi. Duncan constructed a snow garden My first benefit from teamwork was seat, where Tim actually fell asleep in the excellent tuition given by Alan the afternoon sun! We looked out Linford to Juan Carlos and me on the onto an amazingview ofmountainside Condoriri glacier. A bit of ice and distant space. The key piece of climbing and abseiling had greatly teamwork was by our excellent guide improved my confidence on ice. My Jose Camarlinghi who successfully second bit of teamwork was simple arranged strategy, transport, mules, but crucial, when Rory saw me and porters. Jose took every problem struggling with a gigantic rucksack in his stride and was courteous and and muttering about dropping out, he patient with all of us. advised me to offload sleeping bag to Our valiant cook, Arles, huddled the porters and to get started. The under a tarpaulin and plied us with climb to High Camp crossed afternoon tea, followed by supper of then some ofhard

The Payachatas, Parinacota (left) and Pomerata lie several hours walk from Sajama village MS

The YRC Bulletin 35 Winter 1999 sausages and mash. Shortly after our to a foot apart. We crossed extensive arrival, some porters arrived with tents fields of these devilish creations, for a Karakoram Experience party. trying to tread in between them, or There was barely enough room for trying to stand on top of them in our their three tents which were placed crampons. We then made a long above us with minimum shelter. ascent of a forty five-degree couloir, . / which led to a rocky ridge. At an The night was cold, probably -14QC. altitude approaching oooom. Michael as we lay fully dressed in our sleeping had to return, due to a stomach bags. What would tomorrow bring? infection which had prevented him Would I be able to cope with the next from eating properly for days. David day? Turning to simpler matters, I put accompanied Michael back first to my leather boots into my sleeping bag ffigh Camp and then, after a sleep, to at one in the morning, and dozed until Base Camp. camp stirred. We rose at 2:00 am and packed our sacks with the bare It had always been my intention to minimum of gear. Arles produced climb with Alan Linford, but altitude breakfast of tea and muesli, and we has peculiar effects on the mind. My prepared to depart. At this point my ascent became a self-contained Petzl headtorch decided to fail. It struggle, not against the mountain that took some encouragement from the kindly tolerated our presence, but team before I could get it to work against myself As the air becomes with a wide pale beam thinner, you have to force yourself to keep going, and every fifteen yards It was a reliefto get going. All doubts becomes a challenge. Daylight began and concerns were put to one side as to break at 6:15 am, as we were we plodded upwards. clearing the last band of small A feature of high snow slopes in the penitentes. The warmth of the rising tropical latitude and dry air ofBolivia, sun was dissipated by a strong is the formation of penitentes. These blustery wind, estimated at between are blades of ice, in long ridges, or 35 and 40 knots. Climbing at altitude, individual spear shapes, varying from it is often helpful to develop a six inches to three feet high, and some breathing rhythm such as "Step, may even look like kneeling figures ­ breath, breath, step, etc." but when penitentes. The ice may be wafer thin faced with a strong gusty wind such at the tip, and several inches thick at measured progress is not suitable. A the base, and these penitentes are more feasible method was "Step, step, spaced at intervals of from six inches ice axe in, step, step, ice axe in, step, step, ice axe in, and pause for forty seconds of frantic extra breathing" Lurching around like a drunken man, I must ::U:.:': ...... :'.··.i.... <..:.:".:'."'.' have presented a sorry spectacle. As the route ground slowly upwards on the symmetrical ice cone, Penitentes on a Sajama ridge

The YRC Bulletin 36 Winter 1999 Duncan Mackay on the summit ofSajama

the voice ofJose from my left shouted Looking down the mountain in something about 6200 metres. I did daylight for the first time, I was not know what that meant, but took it astonished at the length of snowy as encouragement and plodded on. ridge beneath me. Some minute dots Another figure appeared going of colour in the distance, which I downhill, and ROlY gave words of mistook for climbers, were in fact our encouragement. tents at High Camp. There was no My climbing hamess began to slip sign of the other party, who had down over shiny trousers, impeding abandoned their ascent. We used a my progress. I think I was aware of safety rope in a couple of places on someone behind me, like a St the descent, and returned to High Christopher, keeping an eye on my Camp. Arles plied us with cups oftea progress. As I became hobbled by the as we packed tents and rucksacks, hamess, St. Christopher stepped Our splendid porters, who had forward to :fix it for me and ascended from Sajama village and undemeath his goggles and balac1ava I base camp on succeeding days, could see a distinct likeness to the retumed and collected our tents. whiskered face ofTim Josephy. Thinking about these porters who had twice ascended from Sajamavillage on Shortly after this the angle of slope succeeding days, I felt more like a began to ease, and we emerged onto a tourist than a mountaineer! We flat summit. IfI was jubilant, this was retumed to Base Camp that same day tempered by relief: and after a few and agreed with Jose that climbing moments, Jose, Tim, and I started off Sajama is gruelling enough, without downhill. The temperature on the planning other ascents the next day. summit was probably around -20°C. Well, thanks to and the strong wind made conditions Jose, Alan, Rory, Tim, very severe. Duncan Mackay and Duncan, I now have some super summitted, but suffered a temporary memories to look back on. Michael frozen eyeball in the extreme wind­ Smith and Alan Kay can be satisfied chill conditions, while Tim suffered that their plans for Sajama led to a frostbite on the tip ofhis nose. successful outcome.

The YRC Bulletin 37 Winter 1999 Sajama Snippets incomprehensible discussion by one of the older members of the The drive out from La Paz to Sajama accompanying villagers and pressed to is now on good surfaced roads for join in the drinking. After a glass almost all the trip. Turning from the there was a move to process to the La Paz to Oruro road and heading next cluster of buildings so we could west towards Arica we stopped at the make our excuses and break away. first checkpoint and neighbouring shops where a village party was in Well on the way to Sajama a deep progress. The standard brass band valley was crossed lined on either side was enthusiastically belting out a shrill by innumerable rock spires and crags. melody with heavy bass drum The Alan Kay likened it to ''the notes slurring as the alcohol took its Bridestones gone mad". Nearby, set toll. We were engaged in intense but

The YRCBulletin 38 Winter 1999 back from the road, is the Bolivian A geyser field is also about an hours army mountaineering school. walk west ofthe village. The bubbling Arriving at Sajama village the first springs, hot pools and gurgling noises are interesting rather than dramatic. building seen is the National Park office. This has regular radio contact with La Paz, houses a small museum and has large scale maps displayed on the wall. The ranger there will arrange for the local familywhose turn it is on the rota to provide any pack animals or porters required. The thermal springs are about an hours walk away from the village and are signposted, as are all the features, from the main track north which used to be the road to La Paz. A building by the pool marks the spot in this empty, undulating pampa. Vicuna on a minor ridge above basecamp

Volcan Ollagile, 5868m across a snowfield to the Chilean Michael Smith border, the right most to the currently worked mine area and the central one Not having previously climbed an to a previously worked area. As this active volcano I expected a rather dull is the only place for miles along the trudge up even slopes and a quick track where it would be possible to scree run down. The ascent proved turn the vehicle we decide to stop here much more interesting than that. and camp. At the other side of the The ascent of Ollagiie from the north­ snowfield, somewhat higher was west is published [Biggar, 1996, pl09) steam emanating from the fumarole. but our route approached this isolated Hydrogen sulphide from this pervaded volcano from the south-east. Eating the air, gave us headaches and clung lunch on volcanic wavelike rock to our clothes for days. formations many miles away from the Three workers came up about four peak, we viewed the facing flank times each 24 hours to fill their lorry through binoculars. We can make out and descend. At their 10pm visit they the steaming fumarole and a likely suggest we move our camp from the looking track zigzagging across the disused central track round the corner face and decide to investigate. towards the snowfield to be a little Branching left from the track to further from their turning area for Avaroa we cross a wide river wash safety. We do this before they return. area, take a well graded track steeply Via Javier they warned us about mines up to a cluster ofhouses then on to a recently laid along the border by right-hand switchback at 5300m where Chilean soldiers. the road splits into three tracks on the bend. The leftmost heads horizontally Our ascent, on 24 July, starts as a steady walk up old, snow covered

The YRC Bulletin 39 Winter 1999 mmmg tracks to a ridge (light) of gleaming yellow sulphur crystals running roughly south-south-east. The route was decorated with pinnacles, eyes and arches and had fresher air. This peters out around 5S00m and we cross scree to another ridge and traverse a short way to the summit. On that traverse a chunk of rock is it out but it is not but it did have a dislodges and falls to hit Duncan's windbreak and spent flare cases. rucksack. Javier circles anti-clockwise round the Sitting at the summit around noon we crater while Duncan and I go wonder if a more easterly top, further widdershins (clockwise in this round the crater, is higher. We check hemisphere) past the summit and on a descending traverse to the large fumarole near more old tracks. The fumarole stank of hydrogen sulphide. Unpleasant from our camp about a mile away it was revolting at close quarters. 'The local miners had talked of it giving them headaches and stomach upsets. I consoled myself with a recollection of being told that it was noxious only once the concentration was so high that you could no longer smell it. The column of steam, several metres across at the surface, billowed out and rose hundreds of metres into the air. In the calmer, colder air

The YRC Bulletin 40 Winter 1999 ofthe night and moonlit this was very area and our strong determination to impressive. The water content is not allow Javier to descend first, there was surface water but from perhaps 100km no real contest. Javier, though, did down, taken there over thousands of suggest that the longer route might be years after being trapped in the safer. Outvoted he set off down a subduction zone under the Pacific. scree which started promisingly but soon became too steep and coarse for The sulphur thickly coated everything comfortable running. It was a reliefto for tens of metres around and left a reach the hard neve that allowed the yellow rime on edges on rocks near use of crampon to within twenty the rising vapours. metres ofthe tents. I could withstand being a hundred Breaking camp was made easier by metres or so away looking down into strong winds having already collapsed the fumarole but soon had a headache. our tent. In fact it was only prompt After a retreat to the col joining the action by the driver, Rafael, who was main cone with the subsidiary cone waiting for us at base, that had carrying the fumarole, we had to pick prevented our gear being scattered our return route. The alternatives across the mountainside. were a haul back over the summit and descent in clean air or a short direct We descend to pitch camp, after dark, route across the screes and snows of by a deserted quarry or mining depot, the corrie which carried the warning lost on the salar. Driving in the dark oflandmines. we had kept too close to the security of the single railwayline and missed On closer questioning it appeared that the fork off to San Juan de Rosario. these soldiers arrived on motorbikes. With the light ofmorning we are soon Given this, the hard snow covering the back on route.

The YRCBulletin 41 Winter 1999 Birds ofBolivia Duncan Mackay Going from England to any other country always brings with it the challenge of identifying new species. Going to South America is unlike anywhere else in the world because the huge number of species found there. On top of this, almost none of them except the ubiquitous Starlings and House Sparrows occur in Europe. Pan'a, a blue-billed duck on Lake Titicaca So with nothing familiar and many survival. They have to be tough to families of birds which only occur in eke out a living in the Andes. South America, Bolivia is quite an ornithological challenge. When we arrived in La Paz, the first birds we saw were flying around the Until recently, it was also difficult to parks and gardens. The Chiguano get a guidebook to the birds like the Thrush and the ubiquitous Rufous field guides we enjoy in Britain. Collared Sparrow were seen. House However a new guide to The Birds of Sparrows and Starlings are also Southern South America and present in large numbers and the Feral Antarctica (De La Pena and Rumboll, Pigeons are almost as abundant and 1998), goes some ofthe way to solving well fed as those in London. this problem Though, with more than 1600 species of birds in the region, it Our journey to Peru across the is impossible to cover all ofthem in a altiplano went through a variety of single volume. Using this field guide, habitats, in particular puna and we were always faced with the wetland. Eared Doves and Black­ possibility that what we were looking Winged Ground Doves were to be at was not included in the book. seen particularly in agricultural areas, Andean Lapwings were also quite The expedition visited 'a number of abundant. Pearl Kites, American different habitats during the six weeks Kestrel and White Tailed Hawks were that it was out in the field. These also seen. On the rivers were Andean ranged from high Andean peaks and Geese and Southern Pochards. In valleys, Altiplano regions of Bolivia, areas of wetland, we saw Puna Ibis, Lake Titicaca, the city parks and Snowy Egrets, gardens of La Paz and Cuzco, the Andean Lapwing cloud forests of Peru, the Atacama (left) and Andean desert, the Pacific shore of Chile and Coots. Those the lakes and salt pans of southern sailing on Lake Bolivia. These habitats are in many Titicaca saw respects very demanding of the bird Pan'a or Ruddy species that live there. The Duck and, slowly flapping in flight, temperature extremes and the arid Huacana or Cotili as they are called nature of the climate make this a locally in Aymaran, probably the Night region for birds that are specialists in Heron.

The YRC Bulletin 42 Winter 1999 The cloud forest around Machu happened at moments when the Picchu contained so many species, and camera was buried at the bottom of was outside the region covered by the the rucksack. guidebook, that it was not possible to The bird guide mentions that the be accurate about identification. The young of the Mountain Caracara are fabulous colours and wonderful songs coloured brown. However the local made a magical spectacle that people seemed to think that the brown warrants a whole expedition all to Caracara were actually females. We itself To walk the Inca Trail with a were unable to decide which was pair of binoculars would be the ideal correct. However some very mature way to study these birds. looking Brown Caracaras were North of Cochabamba we were present around base camp, and we climbing in the Cocapata area with noticed that on several occasions the mountains of between 4500m and birds mobbing Condors were these 5000m The valley floors were brown coloured Caracaras. Perhaps primarily low grasses, and shrubs the adults don't bother to act typical of puna vegetation. The aggressively towards their larger mountains were free from snow during cousms. the winter season when we were Our base camp was positioned beside visiting. Winter being the time of the small lakes at the foot of Sankhayuni. year when least precipitation occurs. Andean Geese, Silver Grebes and The local farming was principally Puna Teal were all present on the potato growing and grazing llama and lakes. Shrike Tyrants, White-winged sheep. The large herds provided a Cinclodes, Plumbeous Sierra Finches good food supply for the Condors and and an unidentified species of Mountain Caracaras. We found that Ovenbird were all frequent visitors. A most days we couldcount on seeing at delightful flock of Black Siskins; least four Condors. They often flew beautiful black birds with' blight quite close and on mountain ridges yellow wing patches lived among the very close fly-bys, sometimes just a scrub and rocks close to the shore of . few metres away (above), normally our base-camp tarn.

The YRC Bulletin 43 Winter 1999 buildings of the village colourful Sierra Finches and Rufous Collared Sparrows were abundant. Puna Ibis, Andean Geese and Flamingos were found on the wetland areas. Plumbous Sierra finches were also widespread occurring at quite high altitude. Of the Mammals, seventeen puma are reported to be active in the area, although the only one we managed to see was kept on a shelf in the wardens' office. Wild cameloids, Vicuna, are found in the park. We saw small herds of them close to Sajama Base Camp. Alpaca are the most common grazing animal in the park. The continuing journey made by two members of the expedition went across the border into Chile. It is remarkable how the numbers of particularly Vicunas but also some other species increased immediately Amongst the mammals Viscacha we crossed the border. This is likely (above) were abundant in the rocks to be influenced by the strong right up to the tops ofthe peaks. We protection that the Chilean also had a large species of vole that government affords the wildlife both lived under the ground sheet of the in and outside the national parks. mess tent in base camp... until one Vicuna are protected and very day somebody stepped on it. Another abundant. The wild fowl on the lakes death, that of a horse near base camp in the area is also very rich. was notable in that the Condors and Unfortunately, we passed through Caracaras only took 48 hours to rather quickly on a strict time completely strip the carcass of meat. schedule. This large assembly of birds of prey The Pacific seaboard saw a radical arrived within a very short time ofthe change in the bird life. Peruvian death and then departed just as Pelicans, Olivaceous Cormorants, quickly, immature Caracaras being left Brown and Peruvian Boobies were to clean up the few remaining scraps, found in abundance. Some of the Some birds were so full of food that island colonies that we saw just they were unable to flyaway when we offshore south of Iquique were approached. spectacular. A few Oystercatchers Our next climb was made :in the were seen among the rocks, notable in Sajama National Park in the west of that they were completely black. Bolivia on the border with Chile. Amongst the gulls, we identified Some members ofthe expedition were Brown Hooded Gulls and Kelp Gulls. lucky enough to see Lesser Rhea close The large number of Turkey Vultures to the village of Sajama. Amongst the which frequented the beaches was

The YRC Bulletin 44 Winter 1999 quite a surprise. They also turned up the morning sunshinemelts the surface right in the middle ofIquique roosting ice, flamingos are liberated one by one in the palm trees outside the town hall, to fly off. lots ofthem! This region of South America is full of The next stage of the journey saw us birds. The new bird guide made the returning across the Atacama Desert job of identification easier and into Bolivia. The desert itself was hopefully the above notes will give devoid of almost all forms of life, subsequent expeditions a head start on although Black Vultures were found us. They can start to look in detail at in several places. Plumbeous and some ofthe more difficult families like Red-Backed Sierra Finches, Rufous the Ovenbirds and Tyrant Flycatchers. Collared Sparrows were found throughout the area and in oases we found Speckled Teal, Puna Ibis and Plumbeous Rail. On the Laguna Verde Andean Avocets, Puna Plover and Andean Gulls were present. Whilst Laguna Colarada was the best lake for flamingos and all three species were seen: Chilean, Andean, and :'..---,- . James. It was quite remarkable that ..-.----_._.~~---,~.-==:;:,. ~:.:-~ the flamingos remain standing in the .:> water during the night and become frozen in as the lake freezes over. As

Llareta is a relative of parsley which is collected and used as fuel. Thousands of individual plants form these bright green solid domes seen here with Sajama and Jose.

The puma!

The YRC Bulletin 45 Winter 1999 Birding on the Trek During the first day of trekking, Man Linford Derek's birthday incidentally, and we saw two Condors, their metre long He must hear the question from every body, three metre wing span and white group "Jose, when are we likely to see ermine collar unmistakable despite Condors?" His answer was that it being high up. We enjoyed a sighting would be the second week so mind every day until the sixth day when we and eye were conditioned to look for observe five Condors in one group, the other birds we expected to see. harassed by Caracara; a sight our As it happened our first sightings were trekking guide Carlos had not seen ofthree Mountain Caracara black and before. We saw no more for six days. white scroungers with red faces and yellow legs, looking thoroughly You may have seen video of Condors miserable as they sat by the roadside but to see one float over the ridge just in thick mist and drizzle, unpeturbed as we started to descend Pico Austria by our presence. (Condoriti) gives one an entirely different appreciation ofthis bird. The terrain there was a beautiful valley with three lakes and it had another surprise in store - a pair of Andean Geese. These are big birds the male three and a half kilos, the female less, coloured mainly white with blue-black primaries, Not only did we see them on the water, which is most unusual, they also carried out a bonding ritual,

The YRCBulletin 46 Winter 1999 pall'S, IS similar to ours apart from the yellow rump, The Seed Snipe, however, looks more like a Grouse in shape, short stubby beak and grey/ white underparts. We had a few sightings of Duck and Plover, but many more of Moorhen, even over Sooum, and Common Galhnole on wet Duncan's photos of Caracara on this page and Condors on previous page lands. The most We soon made friends with the Sierra stunning of our sightings, though, was Finches charming little birds. The a White Necked Heron, standing stock male grey, female speckled, they still in a mirrored surfaced pool, the would wait patiently for us to lift our reflection so brilliant and perfect, tents and feed on the bugs beneath ­ Most lakes are now stocked with the ground there being moist and frost trout, something we not only saw but free. Not so the aggressive Ground ate. (Andean) Tyrant, a flycatcher with an Flocks of Spotted Tinamou, with evil red eye, they would dash in and features similar to our Ptarmigan, pick the early risers. Bugs never were spotted and many more birds, bothered us, but there must have been too many to relate and all at incredible plenty around for the Tyrants and heights. We never did find out where South Martins, they roosted. Finch-sized, grey with white throats, white underparts and red rump, the Common Divca Finch were not unlike our Snow Bunting but seen much higher than expected. Among the smaller birds were Siskin, South Lapwing and Andean RuffNecked Sparrow. Snipe drew our attention, the Common (Jack) Snipe, always seen in

The YRC Bulletin 47 Winter 1999 Excursions: Maria's fishing Various excursions were boat was made made while we were getting 011 Isla Suriqui used to operating at altitude in traditional and after the main part of the expedition. ':" Sailing on Titicaca \. \" Michael Smith Once you have been to Machu Picchu, it appears, you are reluctant to return lest on the second seeing it does not match that perfect memory from the first time. Well that is one theory to explain why Ian Crowther, and I left the others to their dash into Peru to see the famous ruins before anyone had a fishing boat of Mario Quespe chance to erect the proposed cable Mendosa ofIsla del Sol for just $150. car. We were joined, thankfully, by Suddenly we were all looking forward David Hick, who was heading for to the acclimatisation period. This Peru later, and together we decided to was greeted with scepticism in my relax somewhere near Lake Titicaca, family as they are all too aware of only an hour's drive from La Paz. what a lousy sailor I am - seasick in the slightest swell. We had considered lounging in Sorata below the Illampu-Ancohuma massif The reality lived up to expectation but our guide, Jose, vetoed that as too though there was probably as much low for adequate acclimatisation for rowing as sailing since the wind later climbing. Considering it a bit of dropped for long periods during the a long-shot I asked Jose if he could middle of the day. Mario's boat was hire a boat for sailing on the Lake. A about six metres long and typical of few weeks before leaving the UK we the local fishing boats. The mast was were resigned to visiting a few ruins set well forward and extended by a and taking a commercial hip to Isla long gaff that, together with a boom del Sol as Jose's enquiries had drawn which extended well aft of the stem, a blank. Owners at the sailing club allowed a vast area of sail to be were reluctant to allow precious craft rigged. The sail gaped untidily at the out oftheir control. Then I mentioned foot ofthe mast as the fore end ofthe that we were not wanting anything boom was not resting against the mast flash and would be happy to have a but was held in'a loop ofcord hanging local sailor along as a guide or guard. from the gunwale. When changing Almost by return of e-mail, Jose had tack the boom had to be manhandled arranged for four days sailing in the to the opposite gunwale and relocated.

The YRC Bulletin 48 Winter 1999

through the tent door, we pack our gear down to the jetty. Before a motor boat arrives to take us to Copacabana we have time to help beach a large boat and raise it on props. The usual way back to La Paz would be through Peru but one of our party had not got his passport so we must go via Tiquina. There willbe a bus in a few hours but we find a taxi in the plaza which, once we have feigned indifference by dozing on the wall, drops his price to half: $35. On bald tyres we slip and slide to Tiquina Petroglyphs and Geoglyphs where the driver decides he has had enough, leaves the taxi and takes us Michael Smith onto a ferry boat bluffing his way Driving south along Chile's section of through the police passport the Pan American Highway between checkpoint. We are packed onto a Arica and Iquique can be tedious at minibus, which already has a few times. The road has long straight locals on it, and instructed not to pay sections through largely unchanging any more. It leaves immediately and rocky desert. So when the we are given special treatment opportunity for a short diversion frequently being asked if we want to presented itselfwe took it. stop for photographs. We are dropped off at the terminus, El We stopped the four-wheel drive Cimetario, and take a radio taxi to vehicle at Huara, a small town with reach the Hostal Naira about 4pm for many buildings resembling closed and a welcome shower. dilapidated stores with boardwalks seen on western ghost town :film sets. Entering one open general store we stand between stacked furniture and bundles ofalfalfa while our driver asks about petrol. Supplies appear in five litre open plastic canisters to be poured into the tank through an inverted two litre plastic soft-drink bottle with the bottom removed. The next stop was for a coffee at a cafe which had a stuffed armadillo with a red ribbon tied around its head, by the till. Bolivia has a day when dogs and llamas are be-ribboned, Could this be the Chilean equivalent? Inca doorway on the Isla del Sol M.Smith Refuelled and refreshed we headed east about ten' miles to the single hill rising from the flat desert, CelTO

The YRC Bulletin 51 Winter 1999 Unita. There, high on the even southern slope, was an 86 metre tall geoglyph, a line-drawing of a person. It is supposed to be the largest archaeological representation of a human figure in the world. It consists of dark stones arranged on the lighter soil. .This is not the only such work in the area but it is the largest and most complicated. Later, having crossed back over the Cordillera Occidental onto the altiplano we ask at Poopo town hall for directions to some rock carvings we have heard of Rosa, the wife of an official is volunteered to act as our guide and attempting to make a good impression, interprets every feature of the local landscape for us. pointed tool. There are also After crossing the river while heading geometric shapes, collections of dots towards the co-operative mine, we go and two shapes we could not identify, a kilometre along a new road up the which resemble aircraft. narrow valley by the river. Stopping at a small adobe hut by a mine entrance we walk down a path which then contours upstream, crosses a small tributary then, almost at river level, a scree. Several metres up this scree are the remains of the petroglyphs. Most have been Approaching Oruro from the previous damaged recently by the mining site we broke off and headed east a company while creating the roadway. dozen or so kilometres to Calacala, a Rhea, puma, humans and cameloids fenced in cliff site. About two metres are represented. The shapes have above the base ofthe overhanging cliff been made by hammering with a were representations in white, black and red of cameloids, two of them are being held by humans. We were informed that these were probably of Wankarani ongm placing them \ between 800BC and400AD.

The YRC Bulletin 52 Winter 1999 Calama to El Tatio, Chile After Chiu Chiu (doesn't Bolivia have some wonderful sounding place One ofthe big mistakes ofthe trip was names) the paved road ends and it is the choice ofthe northem route from an unsurfaced track. Thoughtfully at Calama to El Tatio to see the geysers. the larger junctions in this scrubby On the guidebook map [Biggar, pl04) it desert with no habitations, the looked logical as it was practically one authorities have erected whitewashed side ofa triangle rather than the two it adobe-covered brick-wall centred would have taken via San Pedro de signs on which are painted a rough Atacama which we intended to visit map of nearby villages and the tracks later anyway. Also, on local maps, between them. We should have that one side had various braids and descended into Tonconce and taken the northern one appeared to go closer the newer track to the south of El to the mountains. Tatio but to the north were attractive All started well with a picnic lunch in crags and the maps showed a track the shaded quiet plaza at Chiu Chiu by which appeared to avoid descending the whitewashed adobe church and onto the canyon containing Tonconce. Duncan finding new birds to As far as the crags the road was fine photograph. Then Javier offered a and we saw viscacha, vicuna and tall pan ofavocado and tuna leftovers to a cactus. A right at a T junction and we couple of local girls but in the bustle were skirting below the crags with of departure we forgot to recover the views down over a ribbed rocky plain pan. That was half our kitchen cut by a deep canyon. By now the equipment gone. road was closely following an ancient waterpipe over rough terrain, So closely that we deduced that it was a maintenance road for the now apparently disused pipe. Our speed fell to a few kilometres an hour as the track became steeper, narrower, looser, boulder strewn and cut by streams. Rafae1 gave heavily loaded glances but coped masterfully using four-wheel-drive to link together ribbons ofgravel and vegetation into a route across a fast flowing stream We cleared the bigger boulders on narrow sections and watched the hours pass - this would be almost impossible in the dark. Arriving at Linzor at six we find that it is a one bicycle, one man, one house, two dog place with the function of looking after the reservoir.

The YRC Bulletin 53 Winter 1999 The man is amazed that we have Cuzco and the sacred valley arrived this way and promises us that the road out to El Tatio is better and only 25km long. Surely it didn't look that far on the map. With halfan hour before sunset and only a short tropical twilight we make haste east. Then we discover why it is 25km the road twists round contouring and heading west at times. There were a few more boulders to move but we arrive, in the dark, after an hour. We knew we had arrived when crossing a stream there was steaming water bubbling out of the ground by the side of the vehicle. We crept forward a little onto more Two Innocents Abroad solid ground, :find a track and follow it Tim Josephy until stopped by a column of steam Dawn in Cusco. Both Duncan and I passing through our headlight beam are awake in our hotel room listening and rising hundreds of metres in the to the chorus of car hems without moonlight. It was time to camp as we which Peruvian traffic is unable to need a pre-dawn start. proceed. Nothing for it but to get up The view at first light could have been and about and see what's to see. In from a Star Wars set. In the coldest the main square, an army ofcleaners is temperatures of the day (-14°C) just :finishing the mammoth task of columns of steam rose higher than clearing up after last night's revelries ever and the small stream of scalding (it is Inti Raman, an Inca festival water produced a curtain of steam which seems to involve a solid week over 200m long and several metres of drinking, dancing and music). No high. We wandered around the few other pedestrians are about and we kilometres of geysers finding different can view in peace the magnificent types. A metre tall column had steam cathedrals and the Spanish colonial spluttering from the top. Pools had buildings atop their massive Inca springs that gushed up almost a metre foundations. About 500ft above the then settled back to a rolling flow. square are two hills, one crowned with Sulphurous pools were rimmed with a statue of Jesus and the other with a red, brown, yellow and white streaks. cross. We decide to test our total lack Rusting away at the northern end was ofacclimatisation and climb up there. the remains of a steam engine where The way takes us up narrow stepped someone had attempted to tap this alleys, between white painted terraces seeminglyinfinite supply ofenergy. ofhouses to a church courtyard where All too soon, dozens of vehicles workmen, even at this early hour are arrived from San Pedro de Atacama rebuilding an Inca wall from a pile of. bringing trippers and breakfast tables. numbered blocks. Climbing on, both Some boiled their eggs in the hot ofus pretending we are not in the last water while others bathed in prepared stages of collapse, we suddenly break pools. At this point we decamped and out into a huge area of ruins. departed, Surrounding the hilltop, the temple of

The YRC Bulletin 54 Winter 1999 Saqsaywaman is one of the finest remnants of Inca building to be found. Wandering around the massive walls and doorways, we fall into conver­ sation with the only other person around, a Brit and Inca nut who spends half of each year out there. We get the guided tour, and ~~qsaywaman's impressive Inca foundations ove~look Cuzco and are on our way back to the dominated by a three tiered zig-zag wall about 700m long built from hotel for breakfast, huge stones which fit together perfectly. Mike offers to show us around for the our way accompanied by more smiles day. Climbing once again out of the and good wishes. Not far above the city, we visit the ruins of Q'enqo, an village, we reach the road from Cusco area oflimestone outcrops covered in to Pisac, where we wait for a "micro", carvings of animals, much mutilated one of the ubiquitous mini buses that by the Spanish invaders. Further on, in are the principal form of transport a large crag split by natural fissures, hereabouts. we explore the Temple ofthe Moon, a The first micro to arrive, with seats for modified cave with carvings of snakes about twenty, has at least forty on and pumas and with an altar lit by a board. No self-respecting rush hour skylight. All rather Indiana Jones! Out tube traveller would even consider it, in the sunshine again we follow an but the conductor jumps off and ancient highway up through terraced thrusts us in. The next 20 minutes are fields and over a low pass. Grotesque to be among the most terrifying I can cacti and the variety ofsongbirds are a remember. The road drops about reminder that despite the height, we 3000ft ina series of steep hairpins, the are in a tropical country. shininess of the tarmac matched only Eventually we reach an Indian village, by the shininess of the tyres. The where women and children are laying driver is clearly on a time bonus and potatoes out to dry. The tiny thatched believes the whole road is his. As we adobe huts look as if they haven't squeal round a corner on the wrong changed for a thousand years until one side of the road, Duncan mutters notices the incongruous looking about taking a taxi next time. A girl electrical supplies going into the roofs. next to us speaks a bit of English and Black pigs wander in and out of the relays his comment to the passengers, doorways and when Duncan gives a who dissolve in gales of laughter. grubby little urchin a coin to take his "Taxi drivers are dangerous" she says, photo, every child in the village rushes "stick with the bus!" to line up, complete with sundry dogs Pisac is a strange mixture. On the and cats. Mike ducks into a black tourist trail, it has its fair share of doorway, inside which is a tiny shop, tawdry souvenir shops but on the presided over by a charming lady with other hand it is still an ancient market an enormous smile. We consume town carrying on its trade much as it bottles ofsickly fizzy drinks and go on

The YRC Bulletin 55 Winter 1999 ---- l

has done for centuries. We visit a shop Picchu (which is another story), we owned by the mayor, who sidelines in find the last night ofInti Raman in full grave robbing. His back room is full of swing. Tens of thousands pack the artefacts way beyond our price range squares, listening to concerts, which so We make polite excuses and leave. are a strange mixture of rock and High above the town is a craggy Pefias, the haunting pipe music made limestone mountain whereon is a large famous by countless wildlife Inca city. We are too late to walk up documentaries. High above, the so we accept the offer of a taxi. The church we passed on the first morning driver demands payment in advance so is floodlit and I have the brilliant idea he can buy a few pints of petrol. ofgoing up there to take photos ofthe Having shifted a large sow from the city below. In the dark the alleys look road and convinced a cow to different and we are soon lost. No relinquish its scratching post on the matter, we climb on until suddenly we petrol pump, we complete the refuel realise the crowds have gone and we and set off up the hill. Considering the are alone apart from three figures total lack of clutch and brakes, the following a short distance behind. We driver does a great job of negotiating turn left, they turn left. We quicken the hairpins but Duncan and I have our pace, so do they. One catches up already decided that, approaching and demands money. I am all prepared darkness or not, we are definitely to hand over my life savings but walking down. Duncan is made of sterner stuff He Inca Pisac is magnificent. The delivers a smart blow to the chin and surrounding hills are splendidly we make a break. I don't know if terraced and the city itself covers the Duncan is as frightened as me, but he makes a fine job of keeping up as we mountain top and spills down the put Colin Jackson to shame, hurdling sides. We follow a narrow path across a cliff and through a low tunnel to a the alley steps down to the safety of col, above which a large cliff face, the crowds below. Back in the square, light headed and breathless from our pocked with holes, contains the graves escapade, we reflect on our stupidity. of hundreds of Incas, We follow a path down, past well preserved There's no fool like a pair of old buildings and dry fountains towards fools! the terracing below. In the gathering dusk, with the lights of Pisac still Iouoft below, it is a magical place. We finally reach the bottom in full darkness and wait for the last micro home. Arriving in Cusco, we realise we have discovered the stress free way of travelling in South America always go uphill and at night! Next day, on our return Machu Picchu ruins from the top of Huayna Picchu peak. A from a trip to Machu member noted that "the countryside seen in Peru is the most picturesque I've seen anywhere, and deserves a return visit."

The YRC Bulletin 56 Winter 1999

A Grand Day Out British Embassy Javier, our guide from Andean The British Embassy were supportive Summits, was a bit unsure about the and interested in our venture. Making climbing party's fitness and contact on arrival we were invited to a acclimatisation. He and Tim went for welcome lunch with embassy staff and a nice day's climbing. The day Bernardo Guarachi. Maria Paz involved an early start, an epic multi­ Campo was full of enthusiasm, helpful pitch ascent ofa new summit on loose information and advice. rock, and an even more epic descent While some were visiting Sajama, on even looser rock. Tim and Javier Albert, Ian, David Atherton and newly then found themselves some six miles arrived Christine Marriott were in La of steep difficult going from base Paz and able to take up the Embassy's camp with an hour ofdaylight left. As invitation to a reception for the Col. usual, Tim had eaten about three John Blashford-Snell Kota Mama raisins all day, which he believes is Expedition. This was held at the entirely adequate. Unfortunately he Ambassador's house rather than the had catered for Javier on a similarly offices and allowed them to meet generous scale. When they arrived Ambassador Minter, who is a keen back in base camp, as darkness was rambler. falling, Too was in good form and high spirits. Javier, arriving a few Cocapatan Huntsman minutes later, croaked, ''He made me Late one afternoon a local chap with RUN!" (all this having taken place at feathered hat, well worn jacket and around 450om). Later I saw Javier the usual sandals came past our lying in a corner ofthe mess tent, eyes Willpanki camp carrying a .22 rifle. closed, trying to eat his supper but We engaged him in conversation and falling asleep between mouthfuls. The he explained that he was after viscacha conclusion seemed to be that Too at or possibly puma. The latter had least was acclimatising quite well been responsible for taking llama over really. in the next valley. His gun was well worn, obviously a much loved and treasured possession. The stock had been replaced with a rough cut version which was held onto Guiding the YRC the barrel by innertube material straps Our guides, after being with us for stapled into place. We wished him three weeks, got to know everyone good luck and provided a new plastic well and got over their initial concern bag to hold his few precious rounds. at this collection of mountaineers much older than their usual clients. They enjoyed not having to instruct us in the basics and could relax as we looked after one another rather than leaving it to our guides. They enjoyed the trips. One of the several fiesta bands we came across on the altiplano

The YRC Bulletin 58 Winter 1999 Conclusions: The Cordillera Occidental offers mainly isolated peaks with little Bolivia holds a store of opportunities technical difficulty. There are for mountaineer at the club level innumerable unvisited lower crags and including new areas. Age and lack of boulders. Their setting is spectacular high-altitude experience proved not to though access is difficult on account be barriers. Indeed one of the main of their isolation and long distances achievements was that oflain topping between habitations. The lack of Sajama on his first attempt at a large water and support makes having a peak. 4WD vehicle indispensable. Sajama is The Cordillera Real were good for an exception in that the local trekking with enough to see each day infrastructure supports ascents by the to make it interesting. Weather was normal route though it is essential to predominantly good and plenty of bring sufficient food. inviting mountaineering opportunities A budding tourist industry based on were passed on the route. San Pedro de Atacama in Chile and Exploratory climbing in the Cordillera Uyuni in Bolivia operates multiday Cocapata was encouraged by the endurance-testing tours of the shapely peaks but hampered by loose Atacama. Small hostels are emerging rock and inadequate anchors. There to service this trade though their are more and steeper routes awaiting amenities are minimal. future visitors. For those seeking Comparing conditions with twenty mountain walking or scrambling ample years ago the improvement in the La opportunities remain as we Paz infrastructure and major roads concentrated on one part ofthe range. (with the exception ofEl Alto, though The scarcity ofprevious visits, ease of roadworks are underway there) is access, local support and modest striking. Supermarkets carry the full heights were advantageous features of range of goods you would expect in this range. an European small town; certainly The Quimsa Cruz were considered as sufficient to stock a basecamp. a alternative to the Cordillera Simple well-made fleeces, sleeping Cocapata when planning this bags, jackets, gloves, hats and the like expedition. Local guides confirmed are readily available from a number of the extensive possibilities in the stores round Sagarnaga at modest northern parts ofthe Quimsa Cruz not prices. Tents, ice axes and crampon only for climbing but also for can now be hired. attractive trekking off the usual route. Petzel head torches were not available However to include it in a list ofseven and, despite their domination of the of the "last great wildernesses" and market, our group ran into several describing it as ''largely unexplored" problems due to inadequate or failing (Gentleman, 1999) is probably components. Three self-inflating air hyperbole. From the tops ofthe peaks mattresses, of various types, in the west of the Cocapata we could developed leaks while those with see the Quimsa Cruz and the area closed-cell foam mattresses slept appeared attractive for mountaineer soundly. These too are available in La climbers. Paz. Heavy waterproof jackets were not worth carrying and lightweight windprooftops were invaluable.

The YRC Bulletin 59 Winter 1999 There are plenty of :firms offering A Polaroid camera and several packs guiding services but good, of film were taken by the climbing experienced guides and cooks are at a party. They were used to take shots premium. making contact and booking ofthe Cocapata range from the roads well in advance, being explicit about which lay to the south and the east 'your requirements and expecting to during the drive in. These were of pay a little more than the average rate little use other than a general reminder pays dividends. of the outlines. This was partly because they were backlit, wide-angle Communications have improved to the and small, but also because we ended point where a mobile phone used on a up climbing on the opposite faces to peak has a good chance of making a the ones photographed. We also took connection. Using e-mail permitted pictures ofthe villagers for their own negotiation during the planning phase use in return for their tolerance and and kept relatives back home informed assistance. Local people greatly of our progress once we were in appreciated their portraits so the South America. outlay of around £50 Machu Mountain (climbed) ... Picchu was worthwhile. The .'? ...Qllantaytambo Mountain (other) 6­ early morning low v-, : .... ,'••• Route travelled ", tenaperatures increased Route walked ","'''' developing times several Previous trips Historic site ... fold. The weather, both El Nifio and La Nifia notwithstanding, proved generally reliably stable, dry and sunny but cold. Very little time was wasted due to bad weather. The tropical twelve-hour day with twelve hours of darkness put a certain pressure on time during days out. Nights were often clear and ranged QC from -14 in the ...... mountains to +14QC on ...... the coast...... Bolivia, Peru and Chile ...... , . kept us well entertained ...... and provided more than ...... enough of a challenge...... The Club is sure to ::::;::;»»»» Lagunas ::::::::;:<:>;<:;:»:-;«'»:" 0 Colorada return and take up some -.,:::::««<.:.:':':: : and of the many remaining ..... :: <>«« Verde opportunities...... <::::<.:-:::::«.:-. V Licancabur Routes taken during the various parts of the expedition

The YRC Bulletin 60 Winter 1999 Achievements Acknowledgements The real achievement was that we We wish to acknowledge the worked together, with our Bolivian following for their valuable helpers, to enjoy some of the culture contributions to the success ofthe and geography of Bolivia, Peru and expedition: Chile. However, expeditions are also Jose Camarlinghi ofAndean measured by their contribution to Summits for advice on logistics mountaineering achievement so a list and the collection ofinformation ofthe new ascents in the Cordillera de in Bolivia Cocapata is given here. Maria Paz Campero, Press and Rock climbing routes: Public Affairs Officer, British Jatuncasa slabs, left-hand route, Embassy, La Paz, for support and Hick & Josephy, 28 June, and a warmwelcome central route, Smith & Thellache, 28 June. First ascents. Barnsley College for reprographics services and accommodation Willpanki I, south-west ridge, Josephy & Thellache, 1 July, first ascent,and John Biggar for advice on Il, south-west ridge, Smith & Hick, opportunities in southern Bolivia 2 July, new route. Sir Christian Bonington CBE for Sankhayuni Il, slab route, Camarlinghi supportive correspondence & Josephy, 29 June, first ascent, and Yossi Brain for advice on the IV, Nido de Condores, Camarlinghi, Cordillera Real and opportunities Josephy & Smith, 7 July, first ascent. in the Cordillera Occidental New peaks or mountains: Evelio Echevarria for drawing to our Poma Apacheta I (also Il) Newman, notice the Cocapata range and 6 July then supplying photographs and Cerros del Lago Chuli Chulani I detailed reports (also Il and ill), Mackay & Newman, 30 June Mark Greenstock, Yuri and Jessica for current information on Pututuni I (also Ill, VI and IX?), Cochabamba Mackay & Newman, 4 July Sankhayuni III (also ill), Mackay & Nerrissa Kisdon for translations Newman, 1 July, Liz Nicholson for assistance in Malpaso I and Il, Mackay & Newman, collecting local information 3 July John O'Neil for recent information Other peaks or mountains: on the south ofBolivia Sankhayuni I, Mackay & Newman, Matthew Parris for contacts 1 July, probably Herzog's Incachaca and the members ofthe YRC for Also many other minor peaks. their encouragement and support. Sajama was climbed to the summit by Camarlinghi, Gilmour, Josephy, Mackay and Newman on 14 July. Ventanani was climbed by A.Chapman, I.Crowther, I.Gilmour, ALinford and F.D.Smith on 7 July.

The YRC Bulletin 61 Winter 1999 Sources ofInformation Amelia Gentleman, 1999, British explorers scale unexplored peaks, in the Guardian Organisations: newspaper, July 20, 1999 Andean Summits, Casilla 6976, La James Oberg, 1999, The probe that Paz, Bolivia, situated on Calle fell to Earth, reporting the failed Sagarnaga No.189 Murillo Russian Mars-96 probe, in New corner, TellFax (591-2) 317497, Scientist, 6 March, 1999, [email protected] No.2176, p38-42 Bolivian Times, an English language Matthew Parris, 1997, Heaven­ weekly newspaper published in La wards to hell, article describing Paz, Bolivia and available on an ascent oflllimani, in The http://latinwide.com/boltimes Times newspaper, 19 September, 1997 Joseph Barclay Pentland, 1827, Articles: Report on Bolivia (for the Evelio Echevarria, Cordillera de British government), edited by J Cocapata, Bolivia, The Alpine Valetie Fifer, 1974, and Journal 1997, Vol.102, No.346, reproduced in the Camden p154-160 and plates 75-78 Miscellany XXV, Camden 4th Douglas R. Hardy, Mathias Vuille, series, Vol. 13, pI69-267, Carsten Braun, Frank Keimig and London: Royal Historical Society Raymond S. Bradley, 1998, Simon Richmond, 1998, The Lost Annual and Daily World, on Blashford-Snell's Meteorological Cycles at High Atlantis expedition, in Altitude on a Tropical Geographical, August 1998, Mountain, in Bulletin ofthe p6-12 American Meteorological Society Vo1.79, No.9, pI899-1913 Theodor Herzog, 1913, Die bolivischen Kordilleren, in Guide books: Petermanns Geographische Wayne Bemhardson, Chile and Mitteilungen, Vol. 59, p304-8 Easter Island: a Lonely Planet travel survival kit, 4th edition, 1997, London: Lonely Planet Background: John Biggar, 1996, The High Sir Martin Conway, 1901, Climbing Andes: a guide for climbers, & Exploration in the Bolivian Andes, 93 Queen Street, Castle Andes, London: Harper & Douglas, DG7 lEH, Scotland Brothers Yossi Brain, Andrew North and Evelio Echevarria, Cordillera de Isobel Stoddart, 1997, Trekking Potosf, Bolivia, on Henry Hoek in Bolivia: A Traveller's Guide, The Alpine Jouma11995, Leicester: Cordee and Seattle: Vol.100, No.344, p162-172 and Mountaineers plate 44

The YRC Bulletin 62 Winter 1999 Maps - Cordillera de Cocapata: Instituto Geografico Militar de Bolivia, 1:50000, Series H731, Edition 1, 1968, reprinted 1991, Sheets 6342-IV Icari, 6242-1 ComunidadTiquirpaya, 6242-ll, Morochata, and Edition 2, Sheet 6342-ill Cordillera del Tunari, 1989, printed 1990 Yossi Brain, 1999, Bolivia: A Climbing Guide, Leicester: Cordee and Seattle: Mountaineers 6242-1 6342-IV Cerro Achaghararia Cerro Willpanki Hilary Bradt and Peter Schepens, Ventanani Jatuncasa Pirhuata 1995, Backpacking in Peru and 6242-ll 6342-Ill Bolivia, 6th edition, Globe­ Cerro Tunari Pequot

Alan Murphy, 1997, Bolivia Maps - Cordillera Real: Handbook, Bristol: Footprint Handbooks LiamP. O'Brien's 1:135000, ANew Map ofthe Cordillera Real de Los Robert Pecher and WaIter Andes, 1995 SchnriellillDll, 1977, The Southern Cordillera Real: A Guide for Mountaineers, Skiers Maps - Cordillera Occidental: and Walkers, Chur, Switzerland: Waiter Guzman Cordova's 1:50000, Plata Travel Navado Sajama, 1993 Deanna Swaney, Bolivia: a Lonely Planet travel survival kit, 3rd edition, 1996, London: Lonely Maps - Bolivian Roads Planet Mapa Politico de Bolivia 1:3000000, 1998 (available from the Oveja Negra on the Prado, La Paz) Other Books: Martin R, de la Pefia and Maurice Rumboll, Birds of Southern Video America, London: Collins BBC Manchester, 1999, Rough J. V. Remsen Junior and Melvin A. Guide to Bolivia Traylor Junior, 1989, An Annotated List of the Birds of Bolivia, Vermillion SD: Buteo Books Ruth Janette Ruck, 1978, Along Came a Llama, London: Faber and Faber Michael Smith et al, 1989, . Apolobamba 1988 ­ Expedition Report, YRC Condoriri

The YRC Bulletin 63 Winter 1999 Back at Camp IV, Guarachi's limited English caused him to misinterpret the plansofhis group, andhe returnedto base camp. Then, realising his error, he did an While in La Paz Albeit about face and pushed straight through Chapman, Ian Crowther once more to Camp IV. On midnight of andMichael Smithwere May 25, he set off a final time with a invited to lunch with Singaporean group of climbers, making Bemardo Guarachi to catch up on news 3548min 72 hours from base camp to the since our lastvisit in 1988 when Bemardo summit. provided logistical support in the Apolobarnba. This was Guarachi's second Everest attempt. His first, in 1994, endedat 8180m Bemardo presented the Club with a inbad weather. panorama of the Cord:illera Real and was generously invited us to his spacious new Guarachi was raised near the windswept offices for coffee and a detailed discussion Andean town of Patacamaya, where his of our plansfor the currenttrip. father still tends the family herds of sheep andllamas, sohe has spentmuch ofhis life The description ofhis ascent is compiled above 50001ll As a guide, he has made from articles by Roger Hamilton which more than 170 ascents of 6450m IDimani, appeared in IDBAmerica, July 1998, p15 overlooking La Paz, The most dramatic andChasqui, July 1998,p4. ofthese was in 1985, when he was hired At 5:55 a.m on May 26, Katmandu time, by EasternAirlines to locate the wreckage after almost having to concede defeat; ofan airliner that crashed on New Year's Bemardo Guarachi, 43, placed the Day. Bolivian flag on the summit of Mt. Theplanto finance hissecondattemptwas Everest. He was the first Bolivian andfirst hatched during a 1996 climb up Illimani in native American to reach Everest's which Guarachi guided Bolivian Vice­ summit. President Jorge Quiroga Ramirez and The expedition had not gone in a textbook Bolivian Timespublisher, Peter Mcfarren, fashion. After' arriving in Nepal in late Theyformed a groupwhichraised$33000. March, heavy snows kept Guarachi and a nd On July2 Guarachi received the Condor growing number of climber's tied to base de los Andes award, Bolivia's highest camp. Guarachi spentthe next two months recognition, fromPresident Hugo Banzer. conditioning himselfwith climbs to Camp II and Ill. "It was very, very frustrating ~~ ~,C~ for him," saysDavid Atkinson, one ofthe {?())1 tJ organisers of the driveto fund Guarachi's attempt. '11 took tremendous willpower cU(~~ and character just to spend two months underthose conditions, living out ofa tent, ·~f~ losing lOkg, so cut offfromhisfamily." Then on May 19 the weather' cleared, and Guarachi and 53 others set off up the Nepal side. But by the time they reached the Hillary Step, just 100 vertical metres from the summit, they had run out of rope andhad to turnback.

The YRCBulletin 64 Winter 1999