DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for , Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe

THIS ISSUE: August 25, 1997 Prime Travel Time: Fall '97 here’s good news tonight, espe- ANCIENT SION cially for those of us hooked on T Switzerland. This exquisite lit- French-speaking, vineyard-ringed, Sion is Switzerland's oldest city and the capital tle country, you see, seems to be get- of the Valais. Add it to your “hot list” of places to visit on your next trip ting affordable. or years, we thought of the old incidentally, contains the world’s In the last two years, our dollar city of Sion as merely an in- oldest playable organ, and Tourbil- has risen nearly 50% in value against triguing-looking town we often lon was the summer residence of the franc. A 200 Sfr. hotel room that F passed on the way to somewhere the Prince Bishop of Martigny until translated to $183 in the spring of else. But now, after two visits, we’re it was destroyed by fire in 1788. It 1995 now goes for $125. A 25 Sfr. not sure why this French-speaking remains in ruins. entree in a restaurant was $23 then city near the west end of Switzer- but is now less than $16. A 4 Sfr. beer Tourist office brochures tout land’s Rhône valley that was $3.67 is now $2.50. Big sav- by Sion as the “capital of Swiss Califor- ings. doesn’t attract more Bob Bestor nia” and call it a “warm, sunny land visitors. There are even a few genuine bar- of vineyards, orchards, strawberry gains. You will note in our story on One reason may be that it has to and raspberry fields.” Like several Sion that Pierre Menegale-Duc, own- compete for attention with several other Swiss destinations, local er of Ho- more famous destinations in its own boosters claim Sion has the coun- Inside: tel des canton, the Valais. More familiar try’s best climate with the least names such as Saas Fee, Crans- rainfall and the most days of sun- • Private Wine Tasting Vignes, Montana, Verbier and Zermatt get shine. • Readers' Forum has ex- tended a most of the attention. • The Great Gianadda Whether true or not, Sion is a special Approaching Switzerland’s place to be visited in any weather. 15% discount to Gemütlichkeit sub- oldest city from either direction on In winter, it is the center of the scribers (you must reserve in advance the main valley road, one is immedi- val d’ Herens ski region including and identify yourself as a subscrib- ately struck by Sion's medieval, such little-known (in this country) er). This means his standard east- almost Moorish, skyline. Out of the villages as Arolla, Evolène, Nax, La facing double rooms will cost you valley’s rocky soil rise two imposing Sage, Thyon, Les Collons and oth- less than $100 (175 Sfr. less 15% = fortresses, the twin of Valère ers. Most are within a few minutes 148.75 Sfr. = $93). I don’t know in the and Tourbillon. last five to seven years that I’ve seen drive of Sion. Valère is actually a church which, Continued on page 3… any double room in what I would consider a decent Swiss hotel for less than $100. Des Vignes is an elegant An Authentic Swiss Mountain Village: Evolène building in a beautiful setting and f we wanted to virtually disap- operated by a family who cares. If In the heat of summer, the somehow we could place a blinking pear from the face of the earth for weather will be warm but not neon sign on this page it would blink I a week or so it might be to the oppressive during the day and cool BARGAIN! BARGAIN! BARGAIN! little hamlet of Evolène, about a 25- at night, sometimes chilly. In spring with an arrow pointing toward the minute drive into the mountains and fall, days will be cool and words “Des Vignes.” above Sion. nights cold. In winter, of course, we’ll expect to find roofs and streets The news is equally good in Ger- There, among the wooden, piled high with snow. many and Austria. Earlier this month weathered, brown/black Valasian the dollar neared 1.9 marks but at houses, we would find a simple The phrase “a village where press time had fallen back somewhat hotel or pension or perhaps rent a time has stood still” is a travel- to 1.82. In Austria it now buys almost small chalet. Days we would walk writing cliche usually applied to 13 schillings. the easier mountain trails and eve- places where tens of millions of nings eat hearty mountain food and The surge in the dollar, coupled marks, francs or schillings have with continuing low car rental prices drink Valasian wine alongside been spent on restoration. But in grizzled locals at one of the town's Continued on page 2… cheery inns. Continued on page 5… August, 1997 DEAR SUBSCRIBER compresses that to a few minutes. If sair deal. you're interested in email delivery, here Continued from page 1 • Paid subscribers are eligible for are your choices: from $50 to $600 off Swissair’s regular (less than $17 per day including tax for • Replace your regular mail deliv- and sale fares. Right now the reduction a compact VW Golf or Opel Astra in ery with email delivery and the price is $50 for economy tickets priced un- Germany) and low airfares currently stays the same. der $1000, and $150 if the economy fare being announced for late fall and early is $1000 or more. Business and first winter travel, make the next few • Select email in addition to regular mail and the charge is $3 per month. class reductions are $400 and $600 re- months perhaps the best time to go to spectively. However, purchasers of full Europe so far in this decade. And, since Call us at 800-521-6722 to start your fare economy tickets (about $3300 from most American tourists will be back email service. the West Coast) are entitled to a free home by mid-October, you can have Swissair-Delta Code Share business class upgrade. the continent virtually to yourself. You may be aware that Swissair is • A coupon is not needed but you Gemütlichkeit & the WWW now involved in a close relationship must book directly with Swissair. Re- You may be wondering why there with Delta Airlines. Called “code shar- serve through Swissair at 800-221-4750, is not yet a Gemütlichkeit page on the ing” in the industry, what it means is then call Shirley at Swissair in L.A., Internet's World Wide Web. All I can the two airlines book some of their 310-335-5900. She will confirm with us say is it's coming. We have the domain passengers on each others flights. your subscriber status and issue the name reserved — gemut.com — and This, as it relates to their low fare tickets at the lower price. hope before the snow flies to have it up privileges with Swissair, is good news and running. • All persons traveling with the for Gemütlichkeit subscribers. It means subscriber on at least one leg of the The idea is to build a page that will that many of you who, in the past, transatlantic journey are eligible for be THE place to go for those planning couldn't use the Swissair deal because the reduced fares. a trip to Germany, Austria and Swit- you live in a city not served by Swis- zerland. We'll have links to the best sair, can now do so. From many cities Mea Culpas web sites on those three countries; there — other than the “Swissair Gateways” Several of you who pointed out our will be frequent updates of special air- of Boston, Los Angeles, New York, use of the non-word “sufferage” in the fares plus hotel, rail and car rental Atlanta, Philadelphia, Washington, June issue instead of the correct “suf- deals and an opportunity to look at Cincinnati, Chicago, Toronto, Mont- frage.” Somehow that got past our past issues. real — Swissair will now either fly you spell-checker. Gemütlichkeit Via Email to Europe on a Delta flight or pay the Our geography-checker didn't do While some of you have told us fare on another airline to get you from so well, either. The Austrian town of you'll never be on the Internet, it is your town to one of these gateway Bregenz is, of course, at the eastern obvious that more readers than we cities. rather than the western end of the Bod- imagined have on-line access. I said most cities, but not all, unfor- ensee (Lake Constance). — RHB So beginning now, we're making tunately. In order to obtain the Swis- Phone Numbers: Gemütlichkeit will henceforth sair/Gemütlichkeit fare reductions print phone numbers beginning with the country Gemütlichkeit available via email. That code followed by the city code and then the way you'll get it as soon as it's written, some of you will still have to find your number. The “+” indicates one must first dial 011 even before it's printed. The printing, own way to a gateway city. for overseas. To save space, fax numbers follow- mailing and delivery process current- Perhaps at this point we should ing regular phone numbers will be shown without country and city code. When dialing from the U.S. ly takes from two to three weeks. Email review the bidding regarding the Swis- do not dial the first zero in the city code.

Vol. 11, No.8 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY August, 1997 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 People/Service 30% Above Average 12 - 15 Location/Setting 15% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Adequate 4 - 7 Public rooms 5% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Unacceptable 0 - 3 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Value Rating Scale Restaurant Criteria Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Food 65% Subscription Dept: Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Very Good Value 12 - 16 Service 20% Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- Average Value 9 - 11 Atmosphere 15% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 800-521-6722 Below Average Value 5 - 8 or 510-538-0628. Fax: 510-582-8296. e-mail [email protected]. Subscrip- A Rip-Off 0 - 4 tions are $67 per year for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the publishers can make no guarantees Special G Designation regarding accuracy. Periodicals postage paid in Hayward, CA. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 August, 1997 rooms. SION MORE ABOUT SION Continued from page 1 Population: 23,000 One of the hotel’s most desirable Altitude: 512 meters, 1,680 feet chambers is Number 222, a “duplex” On the slopes of the Rhône are Distances to: on two levels with the living area thousands of acres of steeply-ter- Geneva 159 km 99 miles below and bedroom above. There raced vineyards. The rocky soil and Lucerne 83 km 114 miles are bathrooms on both levels. M. Martigny 29 km 18 miles sunshiny climate encourage several Menegale-Duc offers Gemütlichkeit grape varieties and the wine trade Montreux 68 km 43 miles Zürich 277 km 173 miles readers a 15% discount so the price flourishes. Rail Connections: There are frequent trains for two persons in this room is 285 But the wine comes at a price; the from Sion to virtually all points in Switzerland. Sfr. ($178) less 43 Sfr. ($27) for a narrow terraces, some of which Depending on routing and connections, the trip Gemütlichkeit price of 242 Sfr. ($151). to Zürich can take as little as three and one-half contain only two or three short rows hours, Geneva one hour-20 minutes, Munich Less elaborate and smaller is of vines, are an engineering wonder about eight hours and Vienna about 13 hours. Number 111 at 175 Sfr. ($109) for and, when one realizes that each vine Sion Tourist Office two persons or 149 Sfr. ($93) with the must be tended by human hands Place de la Planta, CH-1950 Sion, tel. +41/ discount. To obtain the lower price 027 322 85 86, fax 322 18 82 about eight times a year, a mainte- you must reserve ahead and ask for Excursion to Saillon: After exploring this small nance headache of Excedrin propor- the Gemütlichkeit discount. tions. village, which is about nine miles from Sion, one can walk up a steep path to the ruined And this is a first for us; mineral Where to Stay of Peter of Savoy. water from your room’s minibar is Excursion to Isaérables: At Riddes, on the N9 free! Hotel Des Vignes Autobahn between Martigny and Sion, one can Easily the best hotel in either ride the almost vertical cable car or This is an excellent hotel in a or near Sion (it is located in EDITOR’S choose to drive the switchbacks up to this great setting. The 15% subscriber Uvrier, about 5 km east) CHOICE village set on a precarious slope overlooking the discount makes it also a genuine valley. Inhabitants carry the name “Bedjuis,” Des Vignes looks better now than on possibly because it is thought they descended bargain. our first visit in 1992: the Ro- from Bedouins, part of the Saracen hordes who Daily Rates: Singles 125 to 225 Sfr. manesque architecture fits better overran several of the Alpine valleys in the 8th ($78-$141), doubles 175 to 215 Sfr. century. with the matured landscaping; ($109-$134), suites and duplexes 255 Wine Road: Between Martigny and Leuk, a guestrooms have held up well, and a to 285 ($159-$178). Readers who few subtle additions have made the distance of about 30 miles, the Vignoble du Valais, or wine route of the Valais, passes reserve in advance and ask for the stunning lobby even more inviting. through more than 20 wine villages. Gemütlichkeit discount will be grant- The latter still features a shiny black The Subterranean Lake of St. Léonard: Open to ed 15% off the forgoing prices. grand piano, a 360-degree black the public since 1949, this underground lake Contact: Hotel Des Vignes, Rue du near the village of St. Léonard is one of the granite fireplace and a view past the Pont 9, CH-1958, tel. +41/027/203 vineyards to Sion’s twin fortresses. largest in Europe. A half-hour boat ride on it is mildly interesting and costs 6 Sfr. ($4) for 1671, fax 203 3727. It’s hard to believe this is a small, adults, 4 Sfr. ($2.67) for kids up to 18 and 2 Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 17/20* G family-run hotel. With that lobby, the Sfr. ($1.33) for children under 12. (*with discount) immaculately tended grounds and Sion Guide: The courtly Pierre Chatelain, a Hotel Europa gardens, and a perfect vineyard former Swissair and Swiss Air Force pilot, loves to share the history and legends of his It would be nice if this modern, setting, Des Vignes at first glance town. Arranged through the Sion Tourist Office business-oriented hotel were closer looks the part of a luxurious four or for 100 Sfr. ($67), he conducts fascinating, to Sion’s old quarter than the 10-15 five-star property. But it is owned private two-hour tours of the old town. minute walk it is. Though of the Red and run by a congenial former teach- Walking/Hiking: Bisse is a special word in the Lion/Marriott genre, the Europa er and wife, Pierre and Christiane Valais for canals used for agricultural irriga- offers slightly above average comfort Menegale-Duc, and there is no uni- tion. Along them are relatively easy walking paths which provide a wide variety of routes and services. Due to the dearth of formed doorman or concierge. Re- and vistas. There are trails through deep gorges charming small hotels in Sion, it is laxed, three-star ambience all the and along steep ledges with views of valleys, our first choice in town. way. mountains and villages. Our corner room, Number 402, The restaurant has been upgrad- These and many other walks and hikes, was quite large and had most of the ed and the indoor Astroturf putting over 6,000 km of marked trails, are detailed in usual features; satellite TV, minibar, green remains, as does the pool that the booklet, Sentiers Valasians, available free from the Sion Tourist Office. even terrycloth robes. Under the juts into the vineyards under a glass Winter Olympics: Sion and the region are windows were handy built-ins and roof and there are still tennis courts seeking the Winter Olympics in the year 2006. desk space but electrical outlets were and a pleasant library off the lobby. If they are successful, ice sports are scheduled for Martigny, Sion, Sierre and Visp; alpine overlooked. Plugging in a laptop Guestrooms are spacious but we skiing will be in Crans-Montana and Veysonnaz computer or a video battery recharg- offer the same mild criticism we did and bobsled and luge will be out of the canton er required disconnecting one of the five years ago: the lack of comfort- in St. Moritz. Opening and closing ceremonies lamps or the television. able furniture for sitting in some will be in Sion. Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 August, 1997 persons in a double. Rooms have cable TV and direct- SION Contact: Hotel Du Rhône, Rue du dial phones. Continued from page 3 Scex 10, CH-1950 Sion, tel. +41/027/ Daily Rates: Singles 65 to 105 Sfr. ($41- It also lacked comfortable furni- 322 8291, fax 323 1188. Prop: Anne- $66), doubles 85 to 120 Sfr. ($53-$75). ture, the only place to sit was on one Marie Minder. Contact: Hotel du Midi, Place du of two upright chairs. Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 14/20 Midi 29, CH-1950 Sion, tel. +41/027/ The bathroom was good sized but Hotel du Midi 323 1331, fax 323 6173. poorly lit and lacked space to hang Another hotel in the town center Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 13/20 towels. is the du Midi which offers about a dozen modest but clean rooms above Auberge du Pont Special “business suites” which its cafe and restaurant. Outside the city, in the same area rent for 160 Sfr. ($100) single and 200 as the Hotel Des Vignes, is the Aub- Sfr. ($125) double have erge du Pont, a restaurant small, separate rooms with five rooms to rent. equipped with two phone Insiders Tip..Private Wine Tasting lines and fax or modem n advance, book a free wine tasting with winemakers Mr. Number 4, since it connections. and Mrs. Philippe Savioz. This ebullient young couple appears slightly larger than Iowns the city’s oldest wine cellar, Cave Les Futailles (cahv the others, would be our Daily Rates: Singles 110 pick. It has cable TV on a to 160 Sfr. ($69-$100), lay foo-TIE), deep under the streets of the old town beneath a building of flats. This is a very private affair, there is no sign, tiny set and a small bath- doubles 160 to 200 Sfr. room with shower, no tub. ($100-$125). Free Parking. no storefront. One must have an appointment to descend to Contact: Hotel Europa, caves that have existed for hundreds of years. This restaurant in the Rue de l´Envol 19, CH- In a catacomb-like atmosphere, vineyards seems to be a 1950 Sion, tel. +41/027/ the Saviozes host private tastings neighborhood gathering 322 2423, fax 322 2535, which only the strongest willed sur- place. The garden in the Prop: Fam. G. et J.-M. vive. Expect to have substantial sam- rear is very pleasant in fine Rupp ples of all the dozen or so varieties of weather. Rating: QUALITY 12/20, wine bottled by the Saviozes - Fen- This place is quaint, VALUE 13/20 dant, Johannisberg, Dole, Chenin cozy and very good value. Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gam- Hotel Du Rhône Daily Rates: Singles 55 Sfr. ay, Syrah and others - eagerly pressed ($34), doubles 95 Sfr. ($59). A good choice in the on you. Often the glasses will be filled Contact: Auberge du Pont, town center, though directly from the barrel. CH-1958, Uvrier-St. housed in an uninviting, One or both will host the tasting. Léonard, tel. +41/027/ circa 1960s or 70s concrete 2032231, fax 203 5175. and steel building, is the Winemakers Philippe and his fa- Prop: M. G. Anthamatten. Du Rhône, part of the ther Andre, once a shepard, bottle Rating: QUALITY 8/20, Best Western group. only grapes from their own vineyards and restrict sale to a few restaurants and a list of about 600 private customers. The VALUE 14/20 Forget the hotel’s not Chenin Blanc which you can purchase at the cellar for 16 Sfr. Places to Eat very promising exterior, ($11) sells in restaurants for 45 Sfr. ($30). inside is better. The Du Au Cheval Blanc Rhône is family operated Contact the Savoizes well ahead of your planned visit and, though there is no requirement to do so, don’t fail to Those who so the welcome and seek restaurants EDITOR’S purchase a few bottles of wine. CHOICE service is a cut above. which, in style and Reception is one flight up Andre et Philippe Savoiz, Cave Les Futailles, Grand-Pont price, rest between simple from street level. 44, CH-1950 Sion, tel. +41/027/323 7400 or +41/027/322 meat and potatoes country Rooms are simpler 3965, fax +41/027/323 1874 inns and tony places with than at the Europa but tuxedoed captains and substantially less expensive. Number Room Number four’s three large wine stewards, will feel very much at 401 is a nice corner double with two windows — virtually floor to ceiling home at Au Cheval Blanc. comfortable chairs. — give this corner double a pleas- This storefront bistro offers The restaurant serves excellent ant, wide-open feel. The drawback is interestingly prepared dishes from a traditional Swiss dishes (see page 5). the shower and toilet are in a tiny menu that depends heavily on fresh space separated from the sink which and seasonal ingredients. Daily Rates: Singles 99 Sfr. ($62), is in the sleeping room. doubles 140 Sfr. ($88). Prices for a Obviously popular with the full week with breakfast and dinner Room Number 5 is small but has locals, Cheval Blanc is a lively spot in range from 678 Sfr. ($424) in a single a larger, more conventional bath- the center of the old town. room to 1104 Sfr. ($690) for two room. Continued on page 5…

Gemütlichkeit 4 August, 1997 The decor takes its character from Prop: Olga and Alain Grosjean. No matter, with the sauce and veal it Van Gogh prints, granite floors, Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 13/20 completed a plate of deliciously antique clocks and bright print table satisfying comfort food. And, there cloths. Restaurant du Rhône was a second serving. A no less popular place, EDITOR’S Our first indication that Cheval Another down-home winner was though with a somewhat CHOICE Blanc leaves tradition to others was Risotto with Spargel (white aspara- older clientele, is the restaurant of the Valasian beer served on draught. gus) and lots of cheese. A huge plate the Hotel du Rhône. In its rather It is unfiltered, something rarely seen for 16 Sfr. ($10). in Switzerland. staid dining room we had some of the best examples in recent memory Three course dinners for two here We began with appetizers of of traditional Swiss dishes. will be about $45. fresh oysters (6 Hotel Du Rhône, Sfr./$3.75), the Rue du Scex 10, CH- price for which The Gianadda: Worth a Journey 1950 Sion, tel. +41/ included a glass must-see in the region is the Gianadda Foundation, an eclectic 027/322 8291, fax 323 of very dry white gathering of fine art and cultural and archeological artifacts, 1188. wine. A founded in the late ’70s by Léonard Gianadda in homage to his brother, Rating: QUALITY 14/ A main dish of Pierre, who was killed in 1976 trying to rescue friends from an airplane 20, VALUE 14/20 delicious grilled crash. lamb chops came He built his futuristic cultural center on the site of the ruins of a EVOLÈNE with both white Gallo-Roman temple he discovered while preparing to construct an Continued from page 1 and green aspara- apartment house. gus and oven Evolène it really Following are some of the Gianadda’s current and future events. roasted potatoes. applies. This little There were four • A season of some 15 classical music concerts featuring world- village of 600 souls chops in all, two renowned musicians held in the center's concert hall. probably looks and were kept warm • On exhibit every day through November 11, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., lives very much in the kitchen for are 150 works of Joan Miro. today as it did 50 a second serving. • Another exhibition running through November 11 is on Charlie years ago. A different One of the Chaplain, the silent film star who lived in nearby Vevey. dialect is spoken and there are no designer better dishes • A permanent part of the Gianadda is 50 antique cars from the shops or Michelin- we’ve had any- period 1897 to 1939, including a number of rare Swiss-made vehicles. where in the past starred restaurants year was Zarzue- • The galleries of the Gianadda’s Gallo-Roman Archeological Mu- and a bare minimum la, a gigantic seum overlook the ruins of the Roman temple uncovered in the ’70s. of places sell Evolène Spanish-inspired There are Roman coins, jewelry, weapons and other artifacts and a mugs and tee-shirts. walking tour through the site is offered. seafood stew Throughout the • On the Foundation’s pretty grounds is a permanent sculpture prepared for two summer, women exhibition that includes the works of many well-known artists includ- persons (42 Sfr./ wear traditional garb ing Miro, Rodin, Brancusi, Dubuffet, Arp, Calder and several others. $26 per person). and there are enough In it were mussels, • Scheduled for 1998 are a Paul Gauguin exhibition and a Diego old characters hang- chunks of lobster, Rivera-Frida Kahlo exhibition. Beginning January 18, 1998, Russian ing around to let you shrimp, fish icons from the Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow will be on display. know there’s some- pieces, prawns, Admission is 12 Sfr. ($8) for adults, 9 Sfr. ($6) for seniors and 5 Sfr. thing going on here and potatoes, all ($3) for students and children over 10. besides tourism. swimming in a garlicky broth Pierre Gianadda Foundation, CH-1920 Martigny, tel. +41/027/722 Of course there laced with olive 3978, fax +41/027/722 5285. Web site: http://www.gianadda.ch. are tourists — hikers oil and flavored and climbers in with a variety of herbs including Emince de Veau “Zürichoiser” (35 summer and skiers in winter — but saffron. With glasses of chardonnay Sfr./$22) is on menus all over Swit- this is a different breed of Swiss from Cave Les Futailles across the zerland. Du Rhône’s rendition of the mountain town from the likes of street, and baskets of good bread for standard was all one could ask for. Zermatt and Grindelwald. dipping, it was sublime. The tender, sauteed veal chunks It is also less expensive. The top A dinner for two here, without came bathed in a light mushroom hotel in town charges about $80 for beverages, will be about $50-$60. cream sauce that had been flamed in its best room, you can rent an apart- cognac. The accompanying Rösti was Au Cheval Blanc, Grand-Pont 23, ment for as little as $160 per week somewhat loose, more like our hash and a small beer is less than $2. CH-1930, Sion, tel. +41/027/322 1867. browns, than the usual dense patty. Continued on page 6…

Gemütlichkeit 5 August, 1997 Contact: Hotel Eden, CH-1983 ries, some wild, with ice cream. EVOLÈNE Evolène, tel. +41/027/831112, fax 833 Continued from page 3 Dinner for three was about $90. 212. Prop: Family Maria-Thérèse Gaudin. Daily Rates: Singles 38 Sfr. ($24), Bed & Board in Evolène doubles 76 Sfr. ($48). Seven day Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 14/20 Hotel prices shown below are for packages with dinner and breakfast rooms with private bath and include Pension d’Evolène are 340 Sfr. ($213). breakfast. Rooms without bath will be less. An old-fashioned inn with a few Contact: Pension d’Evolène, CH- simple rooms to rent, none with 1983, tel. +41/027/83 11 51. Hotel Hermitage private bath. The café-bar is a hang- Rest. Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 10/20 Evolène’s best accommodations out for locals and the restaurant is are at the wonderfully rustic Hotel probably the best in town. Chez Raymonde Aux Vieus Mazots Hermitage, where the Queen of The “old barn,” a little spot on Just off the café is the small Holland once stayed during the war. the main street, is another place slightly more formal dining room. where locals go for a beer, a glass of The interior is wood paneled Cowbells and rustic wood cabinets wine and perhaps some air-dried walls and ceilings, slate entryways, adorn the walls. There are green and beef or fondue. There is a small bar parquet floors, oriental rugs, stuffed white table cloths, cloth napkins and birds and game and plenty of an- at which men stand but women do tique knickknacks. The best place to Apartment/Chalet Rental not. be in the house is the inviting living There are many short term rentals Chez Raymonde Aux Vieus room/sun room with its paneled available in the town and surrounding Mazots, CH-1983 Evolène. walls and ceiling and expanses of area. Prices range from 250 Sfr. ($167) READERS' windows on three sides. per week for a studio in low season to Guestrooms, though in no sense 1320 Sfr. ($880) for the five-room Chalet FORUM luxurious, are comfortable and cozy. Echo des Monts. Contact: Evolène Ask for Number 16 under the eaves. Vacances, CH-1983 Evolène, tel. +41/ German Value Suggestions There are no in-room telephones and 027/283 2121, fax 283 2233. One of the many pleasures of a the hotel does not have a restaurant Evolène Tourist Office trip to Europe is finding those new, small, special hotels as well as re- though raclette and fondue are CH-1983 Evolène, tel. +41/027/283 1235, turning to old favorites. We would sometimes served to guests on win- fax 283 2258, email: info@Evolène.ch ter evenings. like to share a few of both with you. Ski Prices at Evolène Daily Rates: Singles 55 to 65 Sfr. The Ostermann Hotel (an der 1 day 30 Sfr. ($19) 18 Sfr. ($11) ($34-$41), doubles 110 to 120 Sfr. B49, tel. +49/02672/1238, fax 7789) is 7 Days 170 Sfr. ($106) 102 Sfr. ($64) ($69-$75). on the Mosel River four kms from Contact: Hotel Hermitage, CH-1983 Treis-Karden in Lützbach. A good Evolène, tel. +41/027/2831232, fax candles on each table. base to tour the Mosel and to visit the delightful castle of Burg Eltz. 283 3212. Prop: Family Gaspoz- Food, for the most part, is well- Cost is 140 DM ($77) double. Good Chevrier. prepared country fare. rooms and food. To see Burg Eltz Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 15/20 As usual in this sort of restaurant, you must walk but ask about the Hotel Eden we began with the mixed salad shortest way as we walked in from which turned out to be a refreshing This hotel, which in terms of the north side and it is a hard 30 to blend of beets, corn, carrots, shred- cleanliness and charm is almost on a 40 minute trail - mostly down on the ded lettuce and endive topped with a par with the Hermitage, offers only way in which means a hard return. dollop of just-right dressing. two rooms with full bath and you A quiet hotel between Hannover will have to carry your bags up three We batted .667 with the hefty and Braunschweig is the Zum Jager- floors to get to them. entrees: four lamb chops with garlic heim (Meerdofer Str. 40, tel. +49/ sauce (28 Sfr./$18) were perfectly The Eden’s most pleasant fea- 05303/2026, fax 2056) in Rüper about cooked; pork chops Forestiere (21 Sfr. tures are a large deck with fine nine km east of Peine. The cost is 150 $13) came with the usual rich sauce mountain views and a garden where DM ($82) double and the rooms are and, the disappointment, Escalope guest barbecues are sometimes held. modern and comfortable, but the Grillee (25 Sfr./$16), was one big veal food is the real treat. The restaurant Cozy, pine-paneled guestroom steak served sauceless. Too dry. has an extensive menu. The house- Number 11 has low ceilings and a A bottle of Dôle, Des Monts from made beef Sulze (in aspic) is the best mountain view. Grilliar (27 Sfr. /$17) went down I’ve had anywhere and there are Daily Rates: Singles 55 to 65 Sfr. easily. several housemade ice creams on the ($34-$41), doubles 110 to 120 Sfr. dessert list — the strawberry-rhu- One couldn’t argue with dessert:; ($69-$75). Closed November through barb is supreme! The hotel has a fresh warm raspberries and blackber- December 15. sauna (fee) and a small indoor pool.

Gemütlichkeit 6 August, 1997 This is also a good place for three dry saunas, a damp sauna, hot Where Are the Festivals? nutcracker “nuts.” The Steinbach tub, warm indoor pool, a small cold Thoroughly enjoyed your June nutcracker factory in the village of outdoor pool, private sunning yard Breaking Away column about avoid- Hohenhameln is 13 km south of and several areas in the spa center to ing American tourists in Europe. It Peine. Costs here are 30% to 50% less rest and cool down. The hotel offers is your philosophy that makes your than we’ve seen at retail throughout nonsmoking rooms. Ample parking newsletter so enjoyable for me. You Germany. They don't ship so it is available unless the place is fully mentioned the delightful local festi- strictly cash and carry. We pur- packed, then spaces on the adjacent vals, and I wonder if you or your chased a couple of limited edition street. Cost is 199 DM ($109) double . other readers have information about nutcrackers at 200 DM ($110) each. Staff is helpful if you want to make the locations and dates of some of The three limited edition “Christmas reservations elsewhere in Germany. these events? Kings” are the same price. We saw This time in Berlin we visited the MIKE ELDER these for sale in shops during a area known as the “Topography of TOPEKA, KS December trip priced from 275 to 325 Terror” which is the remaining (Ed. Note: Good suggestion. Others have DM ($151-$203). foundations and exhibit area of the said the same thing. We will do more in For a quiet retreat in a heavily- former Gestapo, SS and Secret Police future. See bottom page 8.) wooded area north of Kronach, we headquarters of the Nazi regime — a Better than Budvar? like the Posthotel Lauenstein (Or- very chilling reminder of the past. I, too, have visited Cesky Krum- lmünder Str. 2, tel. +49/09263/991 On the more fun side, the flea lov and was delighted with the 30, fax 991 399) located 4 kms north market on Saturday and Sunday narrow streets, the Rozmberk Castle, of Ludwigstadt. A double room is along the Strasse des 17 Juni from the the lovely little shops and the beer. I 140 DM ($77). Rooms are large and Tiergarten west to the Ernst-Reutter had heard also of Budvar and had have balconies to the dense forest. Platz was great fun. While the east- tried it a couple of times when last in Food is excellent, sauna and indoor ern half of this market is the tradi- Czechoslovakia. It was good, but not pool available, and the staff is friend- tional “treasures/junk,” the west half as good as Pilsner Urquell, nor was it ly. Our only complaint was that the is filled with new crafts, artisans, as good as Falkenberg Pivo, brewed breakfast rolls on Sunday morning jewelry and young designer clothing in Cesky Krumlov. One evening, were more than a day old. The fami- and other original items to make this overlooking the city from a gray ly Wagner also manage the Burgho- an enjoyable 3-4 hour experience. Stalinist hotel, a friend and I dined tel Lauenstein (Burgstr. 4, tel. +49/ The market is open from 10 a.m. to 4 on a spread of chicken, vegetables 09263/9430, fax 94336) on the hilltop p.m. on weekends. and unknown starches. I ordered a above the town. This is a fine old Budvar, and a glass of the local beer A return to the Posthotel Ratten- castle with terrific views and rooms for comparison sake. One sip of berg (Dorfplatz 2, D-94371, tel. +49/ are slightly higher at 150 DM ($82). Budvar and we returned to the 09963/9500, fax 950222) was even Falkenberg. It was smoother, fuller The Parkhotel Seeblick (Strand- better than remembered. In the small flavored and better balanced. We weg 12a, tel. +49/0381/519550, fax Bavarian Forest village of Rattenberg both ordered second glasses. Dinner 519 55113) in Warnemünde-Rostock in the southeast part of Germany, the and beer for two, by the way, came is excellent and only 100 ft. from the Posthotel is 25 km almost due south to just over $8, about what we spent fine beach on the pedestrian strand. of Cham. We can’t say enough about for two cups of coffee the next day Cost is 160-180 DM ($88-$99) double the friendly staff and excellent exten- on the Autobahn in Austria. depending on whether or not you sive menu. The hotel offers free use have a sea view. Superior breakfast of its saunas and indoor pool. Rooms Cesky Krumlov (formerly Kru- buffet with a constantly filled basket are large, comfortable and well-kept. mau when it was German) is my of specialty rolls. Only a few parking This is a good base for visiting the recommendation for a perfect honey- spots but parking on the adjacent many glass factories and outlets moon. street is o.k. Comfortable, clean along the “crystal road” parallel to JIM SACK rooms and helpful staff. the Czech border. Each place seems [email protected] A couple of hotels we returned to to have its own distinctive style and (Ed. Note: This editor thinks it’s a tossup on this trip must be mentioned as it would take an act of supreme between Pilsner Urquell vs. Budvar. An they more than fulfilled the memory willpower to spend a day in these on-line list of Czech breweries contains an of previous visits: delightful shops and not purchase at Eggenberg Pivo brewed in Cesky Krumlov least one item. It seems we bought a but no Falkenberg or Falkenburg.) The Rheinsberg am See (D- piece from almost each place we 13435, Berlin-Reinickendorf, Finster- Trier & Füssen Hotels stopped! walder Str. 64, tel. +49/030/402 1002, As a longtime subscriber, I must Just reliving these stops whets the fax 403 5057) is in the northern Berlin write to follow-up on two of your appetite for more travel. suburb of Wittenau. This is a true spa recommendations from past issues. SHARON & NELSON HELM hotel with all the facilities to regener- In 1992 or so, you recommended PLANO TX ate the spirit and body including the Hotel Petrisberg (D-54296, tel. Continued on page 8…

Gemütlichkeit 7 August, 1997 ing and serving our meal made a afternoon snacks and five-course READERS' FORUM perfect evening even more delightful. dinners. The Tümmlerhof's kitchen is Continued from page 7 We take almost as much pleasure in rated one of Austria's finest. Prices +49/0651/4640, double w/bath from adding this fine restaurant to your list begin at 2,230 AS ($175) per person. 160 DM/$88) in the city of Trier. We as we do in reminding your readers of Contact: Gartenhotel Tümmlerhof, began to visit it in 1994 and have made the Hotel Petrisberg and Landhaus A-6100 Seefeld, tel. +43/5212 /25 71- this wonderful hotel our headquarters Sommer. 0, fax +41/5212/25 71104. for the past three years for our twice COLIN F. MCGOWAN ■ The Goethe Museum in Frankfurt, yearly visits to Germany. It has almost MARRIOTSVILLE MD now 100 years-old, reopened this become our home away from home, summer after four-years of renova- and that for us is the ultimate compli- tion. The new gallery contains some ment. Helmut and Wolfgang Panten- Europe Travel 500 paintings, 16,000 graphics and berg have come to treat us as friends more than a quarter of a million rather than customers. books and manuscripts. Goethe In May, we were treated to a wine Digest Museum, Grosser Hirschgraben 23- tasting in their Weinstube. Expecting a 25, D-60311 Frankfurt, tel. +49/089/ ■ LTU International Airways of small taste of a local wine or two, 233 0320, fax 233 32003. Germany has announced 1997/98 imagine our pleasure when Helmut ■ winter fares to Berlin, Düsseldorf, The German Wine Academy brought out four vintage bottles of Frankfurt and Munich from New annually sponsors week-long ses- their local Rieslings and proceeded to York, Miami, Orlando, Ft. Myers, sions for traveling wine enthusiast. open all of them for our tasting plea- Phoenix, Los Angeles and Denver. Conducted at historic Kloster Eber- sure. With fine wine and the pleasure bach near Frankfurt, the academy’s Roundtrip fares, not including of his company in conversation, the courses are conducted in English, tax, are $348 from New York, $428 evening passed too quickly. In Decem- with meals and accommodations from Florida and $548 from Los ber, remembering our pleasure at the provided. The program travels to six Angeles, Denver and Phoenix. Con- May wine tasting, Helmut presented of Germany’s 13 wine regions and tact: LTU 800-888-0200. us two bottles as a departure gift and there are wine estate visits, vineyard we again left with a warm spot for the ■ The Swiss Ski School Associa- excursions, cellar tours, a Rhein wonderful hospitality of the Panten- tion will again operate its annual Ski cruise, seminars and, of course, berg family and their beautiful hillside Swiss camps in Davos, Saas Fee and tastings with winemakers. The next hotel in Trier. Engelberg. At reasonable rates, skiers session is scheduled for Oct. 5-11. Then it was off to Füssen and a have a chance to learn under the Contact: Carol Sullivan, German visit to the recommended Landhaus guidance of SSSA experts. For six Wine Information Bureau, 79 Madi- Sommer (Weidachstr. 74, D-87629, tel. nights in a double room in Saas Fee, son Ave., New York NY 10016, tel. +49/08362/91470, fax. +49/08362/ including breakfast and dinner, five 212-213-7028, fax 212-213-7042. 914714, double w/bath from 84 DM/ days instruction and skiing, plus the ■ Speaking of wine, following is a $46). Extensive renovations in the past opportunity to test new equipment list of wine festivals during the few years have created a larger facility such as Bigfoot or curved skis, the months of October and November in with dining room for breakfast and price is 1190 Sfr. ($744) per person. In the Mosel, Saar, Ruwer wine region. luncheon. A lift has been added plus Davos, the deal is seven nights an indoor pool and spa as well as accommodations and six days skiing Date Village/Town Date Village/Town suites and we heartily recommend for 1390 Sfr. ($869). Engelberg offers October 10-11 Kröv Suite 50, with a balcony overlooking four nights hotel and meals with 2-5 Koblenz 10-12 Piesport 2- 5 Lieser 10-12 Ediger-Eller the lake and looking up at the famous three days skiing for 750 Sfr. ($469). 3-4 St Aldegund 11-12 castles at Neuschwanstein. Contact Heinz Rubl, Swiss Ski Del. 3-5 Klotten 17-18 Kröv Lastly, allow us to recommend a SSSV, Sporthotel Eiger, CH-3802 3-5 Piesport 24-27 Perl-Nennig fantastic Italian trattoria, the Trattoria Waldegg, tel. +41/033/841 1218, fax 3-5 Ediger-Eller November Luigi (Augsburger Str. 20, average 841 1018. 3-5 Erden 7-9 3-6 Maring-Noviand 7-9 Winningen price w/o wine 23 DM/$13). We ■ One of our favorite Austrian spotted it late on a winter night, with 3-6 Kröv 8-10 Löf hotels, the comfortable, five-star 3-6 Waldrach 14-15 Kasel lights glowing in the residential area of Gartenhotel Tümmlerhof, in Seefeld town and after asking at the Sommer between Innsbruck and Garmisch- There are a dozen other wine for a recommendation, which was Partenkirchen, offers weekend pack- regions in Germany, all with numer- forthcoming with enthusiasm from the ages for those with hearty appetites. ous festivals scheduled from May owner, we visited for dinner. Without The deal includes two nights accom- through November. For a complete a doubt, the veal piccata was extraordi- modations (though you can occupy list contact the German Wine Infor- nary. Our pasta dish Bolognese was your room from Friday morning mation Bureau, 79 Madison Ave., the perfect side and the pleasure that until Sunday evening), breakfasts, New York NY 10016, tel. 212-213- the owner/chef Luigi took in describ- 7028, fax 212-213-7042.

Gemütlichkeit 8 August, 1997