Pines of Arizona

Pines of Arizona AZ1584 COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND LIFE SCIENCES COOPERATIVE EXTENSION Illustration front cover: Common Name: Ponderosa pine Scientific Name: Pinus ponderosa var. scopulorum Pines of Arizona Christopher Jones Associate Agent, Agriculture and Natural Resources Jack Kelly Former Associate Agent, Pima County Cooperative Extension Illustrations by Lois Monarrez June 2013 This information has been reviewed by university faculty. cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1584 Other titles from Arizona Cooperative Extension can be found at: cals.arizona.edu COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND LIFE SCIENCES COOPERATIVE EXTENSION 4 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Pines of Arizona The pine (Pinus species) is an important group of trees within winter temperature, frost, maximum summer temperature, the “conifers” designation. There are many different species, precipitation, humidity and the sun’s intensity are all important. each having its own physical characteristics and cultural The primary factor influencing frost hardiness is usually the requirements. Identifying features of different species include expected minimum winter temperature influenced by elevation. cone size and shape, and the number of long, slender needles Sites at elevations bordering the climate zones will often have in each bundle. Various pine species are very well suited to temperatures that grade into each zone. Species that overlap these environments from the low deserts to the mountains. They are zones will be best adapted. The climate zones are: tolerant of many types of soils and temperature ranges, and are Zone 1A: Coldest mountain and intermountain areas of the relatively pest free. contiguous states; i.e., Greer (-25º to 40º F). A pine tree is a classic form for many home landscapes. The benefit of a pine is obvious: it is a beautiful evergreen tree that Zone 2A: Cold mountain and intermountain areas; i.e., is typically low maintenance and a low water user. It provides Summerhaven (-20º to 30º F). shade all year round. The aromatic foliage has a pleasant Zone 2B: Warmer-summer intermountain climate; i.e., fragrance. Birds and other wildlife will use the pine tree for Flagstaff, Williams, Payson (-10º to -20º F). food, shade and shelter, offering great opportunities for viewing. Zone 3A: Mild areas of mountain and intermountain Fortunately in Arizona, we have many native and non-native climates; i.e., Prescott, Holbrook (-8º to -18º F). pines to choose from when selecting a tree for our yard or landscape. Many are fast growing. Many are tall and statuesque. Zone 3B: Mildest areas of intermountain climates; i.e., Tuba Some are dwarf or smaller in stature to accommodate a smaller City (-2º to -15º F). growing space. They can break up traffic noise as well, or be Zone 10: High desert areas of Arizona and New Mexico; i.e., used as a screen for privacy. Globe, Kingman, Bisbee (10º to -10º F). Zone 12: Arizona’s intermediate desert; i.e.,Tucson, Botanical Discussion Wickenburg, Safford (-15º to 6º F). Pine trees are vascular seed-bearing plants. They are multi- Zone 13: Low or subtropical desert areas; i.e., Phoenix, Yuma cotyledonous (germinating with between four and twenty (19º to 13º F). “seed” leaves) and monoecious, meaning they have both male Zone details are available at: http://www.sunset.com/garden/ (pollen) and female (seed) cones, rather than flowers. The seeds climate-zones/ and pollen are usually wind dispersed. They are part of the Sub Kingdom Gymnospermae (naked-seeded) and formerly part Landscape Use of the Division Coniferae (cone-bearing). The recent scientific There are about 115 species of pine. At least twenty of these classification for the pine family is as follows: are well-adapted to Arizona’s different climates, although Kingdom: Plantae irrigation is often necessary in landscape situations. Landscape Division: Pinophyta (previously Coniferae) architects, contractors and homeowners rely on pines heavily Class: Pinopsida for ornamental uses. Golf courses, parks, malls, industrial and Order: Pinales residential sites use pine cultivars for large and sometimes small Family: Pinaceae landscape plantings. Most pine species grow into large trees, Genus: Pinus so attention to size at maturity and planning sufficient area in The pine family may also be divided into the subgenus Pinus which to grow is critical. Pines offer a variety of forms, needle (Diploxylon or hard pines), which includes the three-needled structures, color, from blue to dark green, and texture, from fine yellow pines such as the Ponderosa, and Strobus (Haploxylon or to coarse. Pines can be used for windbreaks, accent trees or even soft pines), which includes the five-needled white pines such as foundation plantings. the limber pine (Gernandt et al 2005). Gernandt et al also include Planting and caring for evergreens requires a considerable pinyon pines within the Strobus subgenus, whereas earlier investment of time and money, and so it is important to make botanists classified pinyon pines in the subgenusDucampopinus. the right decisions when choosing these plants for your yard. To choose a species wisely, you need to know two basic pieces of information. First, you need to know the ultimate size of the Climate Discussion space that you want filled by the evergreen, and second you The Sunset Western Garden Book (Brenzel et al 2001) divides need to be sure that the species or variety you are considering the state into eight distinct climate zones. These zones range can grow vigorously in the climate and site conditions of your from subalpine to tropical desert and no one of the pines property. This publication is designed to provide guidelines to can grow satisfactorily across this entire range. Minimum help you select the most appropriate pine trees for your yard. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 5 Learning about the habits and needs of evergreens is worth temporary berm of soil at the edge of planting hole, about three the effort. Nursery grown evergreens of landscape grade are to five inches high. This will permit a thorough irrigation of often expensive and take years to mature. If you make the right the rootball and help the newly planted tree initiate new roots. choice at the beginning, not only will you save time and money, Stake the tree if it is unable to stand on its own or when the but your landscape evergreens will provide years of pleasure. root ball is cracked. Staking allows new roots to grow into the soil without constant trunk movement. Place stakes perpendicular to the prevailing wind. Tree ties should be made of a material Selection, Planting, Staking and Pruning that will not harm the tree’s bark. All stakes should be placed All coniferous plants that are purchased from a nursery will be outside the rootball in the native soil to avoid damaging the either sold in a plastic container or balled and burlapped (B&B). root. Branches should not be in contact with the staking material When selecting containerized stock, look for any of the following because this will cause rubbing and bark loss on the branches. defects: rootbinding, brown or dried out foliage or roots, insect Trim the tree stakes to help avoid such problems. damage, weeds in the container or rootball, an extremely large After the tree is planted, final grade checked, temporary trunk diameter in relation to the container size, or a broken or irrigation berms installed and stakes installed (if necessary), loose rootball. apply a 3-4 inch layer of mulch to an area roughly corresponding Early spring or late fall (when the tree is dormant) are the to the drip line of the tree. Mulches suppress weed growth, best times of the year to plant B&B plants. Winter may also reduce water evaporation, moderate cold and heat, are be acceptable in mild climates. Summer planting should be aesthetically pleasing and if organic, add much needed humus avoided and will require more attention, irrigation and care to the soil over time. than trees planted during the more desirable time of the year. If staked, inspect the tree ties occasionally, and adjust as Containerized stock may be planted year round but will establish necessary to prevent any damage or cutting into the bark. The more rapidly when planted during spring to early summer and tree should be firm within two or three years, at which point the late summer to fall. stakes and ties can be removed. Rootbinding is a condition when the roots have circled the Under normal circumstances, pruning newly planted trees is rootball. This condition will lead to a serious problem with not necessary. Remove only dead, dying, broken, diseased parts establishment if not corrected before planting, often resulting in and any branches that are growing inwardly, crossing or rubbing blowdown or root strangulation. It is best to avoid root binding another branch. Prune when the tree is dormant or after the first by selecting another tree with a healthy rootball that is not flush of growth in spring. Springtime pruning is often limited to overgrown and circling. If root binding appears minimal and not pinching, or removing part of the soft new growth. too advanced, use a sharp knife to cut vertically into the rootball to a depth of 1-3 inches, depending on the size of the container. Before planting, contact Blue Stake to mark where underground Problems and Pests utilities such as water, gas and electricity are located. Do not plant Cold and freeze damage may be avoided by careful selection over sewer, gas or water lines. Look upward for overhead wires of a tree species that is appropriate for your area. Take time or other obstructions within the expected crown at maturity. to observe which trees do well in your neighborhood or area. Keep trees away from buildings to minimize fire risk, and Serious freeze damage can kill a tree.

Load more