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Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale | | | TREVI | THE QUIRINALE | | VIA

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 People-watching, 2 Gazing at the Cara- 4 Revelling in the archi- photo-snapping and day­ vaggio masterpieces in tectural treasures, glut of dreaming on the Spanish the ­artistic treasure trove masterpieces, and breath- Steps (p100), with a view Chiesa di Santa Maria del taking Cortona ceiling of down the glittering back- Popolo (p101). (p110). bone of the Tridente dis- 3 Taking a tour of the 5 Visiting the ­poignant trict, designer-clad Via dei (p106), with Keats–Shelley House ­Condotti. its formal gardens and (p104), where the young astounding Rome views, Keats breathed his last in and stopping off in its cafe (then) humble rooms over- afterwards. looking the .

Lg 00 l 00 t 00 de M FLAMINO Viale o 00 i Tort 00 c ro 00 0500 m helangel isa Mu 00 e# 00.25miles a Lu Vi oia VILLA Sav00002# 0 di 00000 0 BORGHESE 0000Piazza de0l 0 a o d'Italia P 0000000 0 s o 0000000 ian or Vi a c 0000Po00polo0 Galoppatoio n C V s i a Piazza 00 P i s ia a L V della d S u i Vi alar c Libertà L R TRIDENTE r g a e ip i z t d gn et ia i d el o # e t 3 T Ba C i a M i a Boncompa a b bu CAMPO Vi e r e o r a ino l MARZIO l R i visi n i 00000 v e i pett 00000 a Ludo r e i 00000 Vi b r V R 00000 1# m i e 00Piazza0 a 00000 t 000 di 00000 t 00Cavour0 de 00005#0 Vi e a S 000 00000 a l 00000 X Vi S i Co 00000 X t 00000 is ia a o 00000 tin ini V r o in rs a 000 er 000 P i nt rb t z e o 000 a 000 Lg r lem 000 ia B 000 a l C 000V 000 M de 000 000 gt Via e 4# Pi0000azza della L iton 0000 el Tr Re0000pubblica Via d TREVI 0000 Za V0000 Vi 0000 ia na Giardino del e a T 00 al r G 00 Quirinale in e o d #æ ir r 00 al i e 00 n ll Qu on o i Trevi Ri Fountain 00000 na C 00000 a del 00000Vi ia Nazi or Vi V scim 00000 s 00000 a 000 o de 00000 Milano ES00000000QU0ILINO C en Villa Colonna 000000000 o l rs t 00000000Piaz0za o o Vit 0000 000000 tori0000 dell'E000000squilino 0000o Em 00000 000000 0000an 0000c0ito r 000000 0000uel 0000ebis 0 u 000000 0000 e II 0000l Pl 0 erna o 000000 a de0000000000 anisp v 000000 Vi 00000000Piaz00za Via P a 00000000000Venezi00a C 00000000000 0 ia 0 00000000000 0 V For more detail of this area see Map p308 A 99 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Tridente, Trevi & the Top Tip Quirinale Local churches are usually Tridente is Rome’s most glamorous district, full of de- locked up for two to three signer boutiques, fashionable bars and swish hotels. hours over lunch, so if you However, it’s not just about shopping, dining and drink- want to visit the interiors, ing. The area also contains the splendid vast neoclassical time your visit for the showpiece, Piazza del Popolo; the wonderfully frivolous ­morning or late afternoon. Spanish Steps; the grandiose Villa Medici; the Museo dell’, a controversial modern museum designed by US architect Richard Meier; artists’ street Via Mar- 5 Best Places gutta, and several masterpiece-packed churches. To see to Eat all the sights here, factoring in some window shopping, ¨¨Enoteca Regionale would take around half a day to a day, and it’s all eas- ­Palatium (p114) ily walkable – a short walk from the or ¨ – and easily accessible from the Spagna ¨Imàgo (p114) ¨¨ and­ Flaminio­ metro stations. Fatamorgana (p111) Triden Alongside Tridente, the Roman hill of Quirinale is ¨¨Colline Emiliane (p115) home to the extraordinary and the im- ¨¨Babette (p112)

posing presidential Palazzo del Quirinale, as well as Trevit e, & t he Quirinale For reviews, see p110.A important churches by the twin masters of Roman ba- roque, and . Other artistic hotspots in the area include the lavish Gal- leria Colonna and the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica: 6 Best Places Palazzo Barberini, a fabulous gallery containing works to Drink by a who’s who of Renaissance and artists – to ¨¨Stravinskij Bar – Hotel de see all this at leisure you’ll need several days. The Trevi Russie (p116) and Quirinale’s principal gateway is the Barberini metro ¨¨Il Palazzetto (p114) stop. Busy during the day, both Tridente and the Quiri- ¨¨Buccone (p111) nale are sleepy after dark. For reviews, see p116.A

 Local Life 1 Best ¨Ambling Imagine yourself as part of Roman Holiday Churches along the laid-back, cobbled and ivy-draped Via ¨¨Chiesa di Santa Maria del Margutta, and enjoy the upscale neighbourhood feel of Popolo (p101) this distinctive district. ¨¨Chiesa di Sant’Andrea al ¨ Shopping Commission yourself a handmade bag or a Quirinale (p107) marble motto from one of the area’s artisanal shops. ¨¨Chiesa di San Carlo alle ¨ Coffee Do as the locals do and grab a caffeine hit, (p107) propping up the bar at one of the district’s iconic cafes, ¨ such as Rosati (p116) or Caffè Greco (p116). ¨Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria (p106) For reviews, see p103.A Getting There & Away ¨Metro The Trevi and Quirinale areas are closest to Barberini metro stop, while Spagna and Flaminio stations are perfectly placed for Tridente. All three stops are on line A. ¨Bus Numerous buses run down to Piazza Barberini or along , and many stop at the southern end of Via del Corso and on Via del Tritone, ideal for a foray into Tridente. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA & THE SPANISH STEPS MICHAEL ZEGERS /GETTY IMAGES © The Spanish Steps and Tridente have been a magnet DON’T MISS… for foreigners since the 1800s. Charles Dickens wrote, ‘these steps are the great place of resort for ¨¨The view from the the artists’ “models”… The first time I went up there, top of the Spanish I could not conceive why the faces seemed familiar to Steps me… I soon found that we had made acquaintance…on ¨¨Barcaccia the walls of various Exhibition Galleries.’ The Piazza di Spagna was named after the Spanish Em- bassy to the Holy See, although the staircase, designed by PRACTICALITIES the Italian Francesco de Sanctis and built in 1725 with a ¨¨Map p308 legacy from the French, leads to the French Chiesa della ¨¨mSpagna Trinità dei Monti. In the late 1700s the area was much loved by English visitors on the Grand Tour and was known to locals as er ghetto de l’inglesi (the English ghetto). Keats lived for a short time in some rooms overlooking the Spanish Steps, and died here of tuberculosis at the age of 25. His landlady’s apartment is now a museum devoted to the Romantics, especially Keats. At the foot of the steps, the fountain of a sinking boat, the Barcaccia (1627), is believed to be by Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo. It’s fed from the ancient Roman Acqua Vergine aqueduct, as are the in Piazza del Popolo and the Trevi Fountain. Here there’s not much pressure, so it’s sunken as a clever piece of engineering. Bees and suns decorate the structure, symbols of the commissioning Barberini family. It was damaged in 2015 by Dutch football fans, and the Dutch subsequently offered to repair the damage. Opposite, Via dei Condotti is Rome’s most exclusive shopping street, glitter- ing with big-name designers such as Gucci, Bulgari and Prada. To the southeast of the piazza, adjacent Piazza Mignanelli is dominated by the Colonna dell’Immacolata, built in 1857 to celebrate Pope Pius IX’s declaration of the . 101

CHIESA DI

This is one of Rome’s earliest and richest Renaissance DON’T MISS… churches, parts of which were designed by Bramante and Bernini. The lavish chapels, decorated by ¨¨Caravaggio’s paint- Caravaggio, Bernini, , Pinturicchio and others, ings, Cerasi Chapel were commissioned by local noble families. ¨¨Bernini’s work in the Raphael-designed The Church Chigi Chapel The first chapel was built here in 1099, over the tombs of ¨¨Pinturicchio’s the Domiti family, to exorcise the ghost of Nero, who was ­frescoes secretly buried on this spot and whose malicious spirit was thought to haunt the area. There were subsequent over- PRACTICALITIES hauls, but the church’s most important makeover came when Bramante renovated the presbytery and choir in the ¨¨Map p308 early and Pinturicchio added a series of fres- ¨¨Piazza del Popolo coes. Also in the Bramante-designed apse are Rome’s first ¨¨h7am-noon & 4-7pm stained-glass windows, crafted by Frenchman Guillaume Mon-Sat, 7.30am- de Marcillat in the early 16th century. The altar houses 1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm the 13th-century painting del Popolo. Its most Sun famous works, by Caravaggio, were added in 1601, and Bernini further reworked the church in the 17th century.­ ¨¨mFlaminio

Chigi Chapel Raphael designed the Cappella Chigi, dedicated to his patron, the enormously wealthy banker Agostino Chigi, but never lived to see it completed. Bernini finished the job for him more than 100 years later, contributing statues of and to the altarpiece, which was built by Sebastiano del Piombo. Only the floor were retained from Raphael’s original design, including that of a kneeling skeleton, placed there to remind the living of the inevitable.

Cerasi Chapel The church’s dazzling highlight is the Cappella Cerasi with its two facing works by ­Caravaggio: the Conversion of Saul and the Crucifixion of St Peter, dramatically spotlit via the artist’s use of light and shade. The former is the second version, as the first was rejected by the patron. The latter is frighteningly realistic: the artist has used perspective to emphasise the weight of the cross and St Peter’s facial expression as he is upturned is heart-­rendingly human. The central altarpiece painting is the Assumption, by Annibale Carracci.

Della Rovere Chapel The frescoes in the lunettes, depicting the stories of St Jerome (to whom the chapel is dedicated), and the Nativity with St Jerome above the altar in this chapel were painted by Pinturicchio in the 15th century, and glow with jewel-bright colours. TREVI FOUNTAIN ARTHUR TILLEY/ GETTY IMAGES © Fontana di Trevi is a baroque extravaganza, a foaming DON’T MISS… masterpiece that almost fills an entire piazza. This is where cavorted in an iconic black ¨¨The contrasting ballgown – apparently wearing waders underneath – seahorses, or moods in Fellini’s (1960). of the sea. The flamboyant baroque ensemble was designed by ¨¨Throwing a coin or Nicola Salvi in 1732 and depicts Neptune’s chariot being three into the fountain. led by Tritons with seahorses – one wild, one docile – ­representing the moods of the sea. The water still comes from the Aqua , an underground aqueduct that PRACTICALITIES is over 2000 years old, built by General Agrippa under ¨¨Fontana di Trevi ­Augustus and which brings water from the Salone springs ¨¨Map p308 around 19km away. The name Trevi refers to the tre vie ¨¨Piazza di Trevi (three roads) that converge at the fountain. To the eastern side of the fountain is a large round stone ¨¨mBarberini urn. The story goes that Salvi, during the construction of the fountain, was harassed by a barber, who had his shop to the east of the fountain and who was critical of the work in progress. Thus the sculptor added this urn in order to block this irritating critic. The famous tradition (since the film Three Coins in the Fountain) is to toss a coin into the fountain, thus ensuring your return to Rome. Around €3000 is thrown into the Trevi on an average day. This money is collected daily and goes to the Catholic charity Caritas, with its yield increasing significantly since the crackdown on criminal elements ­extracting the money for themselves. A Fendi-funded €2.18m restoration of the fountain was scheduled for completion in late 2015, and the fountain is thus looking its gleaming best. 103 1 SIGHTS natively, you can approach from the top of the Spanish Steps. From the gardens you The Piazza del Popolo, the Spanish can strike out to explore Villa Borghese, the Steps, the Trevi Fountain, Rome’s most Villa dei Medici, or the Chiesa della Trinità fashionable district, Palazzo Barberini dei Monti at the top of the Spanish Steps. and a sprinkling of Caravaggios… and it’s all a hop and a skip from Villa Borghese when you’re in need of a breather. This 1 area is one of Rome’s richest, in terms of West of Via Del Corso cuisine, art and culture (as well as hard MUSEO DELL’ARA PACIS MUSEUM cash), and offers an embarrassment of Map p308 (%06 06 08; http://en.arapacis.it; treasures for the visitor. Lungotevere in Auga; adult/reduced €10.50/8.50, audioguide €4; h9am-7pm, last admission 6pm; mFlaminio) The first modern construction in 1 Piazza del Popolo Rome’s historic centre since WWII, Richard Meier’s controversial and widely detested & Around glass-and-marble pavilion houses the Ara

CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA Pacis Augustae (Altar of Peace), Augustus’ Triden DEL POPOLO CHURCH great monument to peace. One of the most See p101. important works of ancient Roman sculp-

ture, the vast marble altar – measuring 11.6m Trevit e, & t he Quirinale PINCIO HILL GARDENS GARDENS by 10.6m by 3.6m – was completed in 13 BC. Map p308 (mFlaminio) Overlooking Piazza The altar was originally positioned near del Popolo, the 19th-century Pincio Hill is Piazza , slightly to named after the Pinci family, who owned the southeast of its current site. The loca- this part of Rome in the 4th century. It’s tion was calculated so that on Augustus’ quite a climb up from the piazza, but at the birthday the shadow of a huge sundial on top you’re rewarded with lovely views over would fall directly on it. to St Peter’s and the Gianicolo Hill. Alter- Over the centuries the altar fell victim to

PIAZZA DEL POPOLO

Si gh

For centuries the site of public executions (the last was in DON’T MISS 1826), this public space was once much less grand than t s today, with a public fountain, horse trough and washing ¨¨The obelisk cistern. It was laid out in 1538 to provide a more grandi- ¨¨The view from the ose entrance to what was then Rome’s main northern Pincio Hill Gardens gateway. Via Flaminia connected the city with the north from here. The piazza has been remodelled several times since, most significantly by Giuseppe Valadier in 1823, PRACTICALITIES who created the gaping ellipse we see today. ¨¨Map p308 In the centre, the 36m-high obelisk was brought by ¨¨mFlaminio Augustus from Heliopolis, in ancient Egypt, and originally stood in Circo Massimo. To the east is the viewpoint of the Pincio Hill Gardens. This is not one of Rome’s origi- nal seven hills, as it lay outside the original city boundary; it was included within the city from the . At the piazza’s southern end are Carlo Rainaldi’s 17th- century baroque churches, Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Chiesa di Santa Maria in Montesanto, while on the northern flank is the , cre- ated by Bernini to celebrate Queen Christina of Sweden’s defection to Catholicism and arrival in Rome. Its welcom- ing inscription reads ‘FELICI FAUSTOQUE INGRESSUI MDCLV’ (For a Happy and Propitious Entrance 1655). 104

GALLERIA COLONNA

The only part of open to the public, this DON’T MISS… dazzlingly opulent gallery houses the Colonna family’s small but stunning private art collection. The polished ¨¨Fantastic ceiling yellow columns represent the ‘Colonna’ (which also frescoes means column) of the family name. ¨¨Annibale Carracci’s The purpose-built gallery (constructed by Antonio Mangiafagioli del Grande from 1654 to 1665) has six rooms crowned by fantastical ceiling frescoes, all dedicated to Mar- cantonio Colonna, the family’s greatest ancestor, who PRACTICALITIES defeated the Turks at the naval Battle of Lepanto in ¨¨Map p308 1571. Works by Giovanni Coli and Filippo Gherardi in the ¨¨%06 678 43 50 Great Hall, Sebastiano Ricci in the Landscapes Room ¨¨www.galleriacol- and Giuseppe Bartolomeo Chiari in the Throne Room Triden onna.it all commemorate his efforts. Note also the cannonball lodged in the gallery’s marble stairs, a vivid reminder of ¨¨Via della Pilotta 17 the 1849 siege of Rome. ¨¨adult/reduced e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale The art on display features a fine array of 16th- to €12/10 18th-century paintings, the highlight of which is An- ¨¨h9am-1.15pm Sat, nibale Carracci’s vivid Mangiafagioli (The Beaneater). closed Aug A wing opened more recently to the public includes ¨¨gVia IV Novembre the sumptuous Chapel Hall and the rich 17th-century Artemisia tapestries collection. From May to October a terrace cafe is open.

Rome’s avid art collectors, and panels end- ed up in the Medici collection (see the gar- 1 Piazza di Spagna landed reliefs embedded in the walls of the

Si gh Villa Medici), the Vatican and the . & Around However, in 1936 Mussolini unearthed the PIAZZA DI SPAGNA & THE SPANISH t remaining parts and decided to reassemble STEPS PIAZZA s them in the present location. See p100. Of the reliefs, the most important ­depicts Augustus at the head of a procession, KEATS–SHELLEY HOUSE MUSEUM ­followed by priests, the general Marcus Map p308 (%06 678 42 35; www.keats-shelley- ­Agrippa and the entire imperial family. house.org; Piazza di Spagna 26; adult/reduced €5/4, ticket gives discount for ; MAUSOLEO DI AUGUSTO MONUMENT h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm & 3-6pm Map p308 (Piazza Augo Imperatore; gPiazza Au- Sat; mSpagna) The Keats–Shelley House is gusto Imperatore) This mausoleum was built where Romantic poet John Keats died of in 28 BC and is the last resting place of Au- tuberculosis at the age of 25, in February gustus, who was buried here in AD 14, and 1821. A year later, fellow poet Percy Bysshe his favourite nephew and heir Marcellus. Shelley drowned off the coast of Tuscany. Mussolini had it restored in 1936 with an The small apartment evokes the impover- eye to being buried here himself. ished lives of the poets, and is now a small Once one of ’s most im- museum crammed with memorabilia, from posing monuments, it’s now an unkempt faded letters to death masks. mound of earth, smelly and surrounded by Keats had come to Rome in 1820, on unsightly fences. Work is allegedly on­going, an obviously unsuccessful trip to try to but there hasn’t been much discernible ­improve his health in the Italian climate. ­development at the site. 105

THE ARTISTS’ STREET Via Margutta has long been associated with art and artists, and today it is still lined with antique shops and art galleries. ‘The street’s reputation goes back to the 16th century, when it was declared a tax- free zone for artists,’ explains Valentina Moncada, owner of the eponymous gallery (Map p308; Via Margutta 54; hby appointment only). ‘If you were an artist and a resident, you paid no taxes, so artists came from all over Europe. Also there was Villa Medici nearby and all the winners of the Prix de Rome (a prestigious French art scholarship) would often come down here.’ By the late 1800s, the studio that Valentina’s family had established in the mid- 19th century had grown into a popular meeting point for visiting artists, writers and ­musicians. ‘A string of important musicians visited, including all the Italian opera greats – Puccini, Verdi, Mascagni – as well as the composers Wagner, Liszt and Debussy. The Italian futurists also held their first meetings here and in 1917 Picasso worked here; he met his wife, Olga, in the courtyard of number 54.’

Of the street’s more recent residents, the most famous is film director Federico Triden Fellini, who lived at No 110 with his wife Giulietta Masina until his death in 1993.

VIA DEI CONDOTTI AREA If you don’t fancy climbing the steep Trevit e, & t he Quirinale Map p308 (mSpagna) High-rolling shop- steps, there’s a lift up from Spagna metro pers and window-dreamers take note, this station. is Rome’s smartest shopping strip. At the eastern end, near Piazza di Spagna, Caffè MUSEO MISSIONARIO Greco (p116) was a favourite meeting point DI PROPAGANDA FIDE MUSEUM of 18th- and 19th-century writers. Other Map p308 (%06 6988 0266; Via di Propaganda top shopping streets in the area include Via 1; admission €8; h2.30-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri; Frattina, Via della Croce, Via delle Carrozze mSpagna) Rome’s ‘propogation of the faith’ and Via del . museum is housed in a 17th-century ba- roque masterpiece designed by Gian Lor- GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA GALLERY enzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini,

% Map p308 ( 06 06 08; www.galleriaartemod- and is an opportunity to peer into Bernini’s Si gh ernaroma.it; Via F Crispi 24; adult/reduced wooden, Hogwartsesque library, with its €7.50/6.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mBarberini) ceiling carved with Barberini bees, and t Housed in an 18th-century Carmelite con- Borromini’s Chapel of the Magi, where the s vent, this interesting collection of art and Wise Men’s Epiphany acts an allegory for sculpture from the 20th century includes converts to Christianity. works by de Chirico and Giorgio Morandi. This little-visited museum houses items Views of Rome, painted by Francesco brought back from overseas missions, with Trombadori and Riccardo Francalancia the eclectic collection including paintings in the 1950s, make Villa Borghese and the of Japanese life in the 1930s and a Canova resemble outposts of EUR (the portrait of Ezzelino Romano. It was closed Mussolini-built neoclassical suburb). for renovation at the time of research, but should have reopened by now. CHIESA DELLA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI CHURCH ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE Map p308 (Piazza Trinità dei Monti; h6.30am- Map p308 (%06 3 28 10; www.palazzovalentini. 8pm Tue-Sun; mSpagna) Looming over the it; Via IV Novembre 119/A; adult/reduced €12/8, Spanish Steps, this landmark church was advance booking fee €1.50; h9.30am-6.30pm commissioned by King Louis XII of France Wed-Mon; mSpagna) Underneath a grand and consecrated in 1585. Apart from the mansion that’s been the seat of the Prov- great views from outside, it has some won- ince of Rome since 1873 lie the archaeologi- derful frescoes by Daniele da Volterra. His cal remains of several lavish ancient Roman Deposizione (Deposition), in the second houses; the excavated fragments have been chapel on the left, is regarded as a master- turned into a fascinating multimedia ‘ex- piece of mannerist painting. perience’. Tours are every 30 minutes, but 106 wonderful landscaped gardens, cardinal’s ROME’S VERSAILLES painted apartments, and incredible views over Rome. Note the pieces of ­ancient Ro- If Napoleon had had his way, the man sculpture from the Ara Pacis embed- Palazzo del Quirinale would have been ded in the villa’s walls. Rome’s Versailles. Journalist and The villa’s most famous resident was ­author Corrado Augias explains: Galileo, who was imprisoned here between ‘Napoleon actually chose Rome 1630 and 1633 during his trial for heresy – as his second capital after Paris. He though Keith Richards and Anita Pallen- wanted Versailles at Paris and the berg stayed here in the 1960s. There are Palazzo del Quirinale – incidentally, up to 19 resident French-speaking artists Rome’s greatest and most beautiful and musicians, with exhibitions and per- – in Rome. He set artists and formances at the end of February and June. architects to prepare it for him and There’s a lovely, high-ceilinged cafe that sent down furniture­ from Paris. In the sells reasonably priced panini and light end he never came and when he was lunches (€3 to €12), plus prosecco (spar- defeated in 1815 the popes took the kling wine; €4). You can also stay at the Triden palazzo back for themselves.’ villa, for a price; see the website.

e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale alternate between Italian, English and 1 French. Book ahead online or by phone, es- Trevi Fountain pecially during holiday periods. to the Quirinale The visit takes you on a virtual tour of TREVI FOUNTAIN FOUNTAIN the dwellings, complete with sound effects, See p102. vividly projected frescoes and glimpses of ancient life as it might have been lived in PALAZZO DEL QUIRINALE PALACE the area around the buildings. It’s genuine- See p107. ly thrilling and great for older kids. PIAZZA DEL QUIRINALE PIAZZA CASA DI GOETHE MUSEUM Map p308 (mBarberini) A wonderful spot to Map p308 (%06 3265 0412; www.casadigoethe. enjoy a glowing Roman sunset, this piazza it; Via del Corso 18; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am- marks the summit of the Quirinale hill. The

Si gh 6pm Tue-Sun; mFlaminio) A gathering place central obelisk was moved here from the for German intellectuals, the Via del Corso Mausoleo di Augusto in 1786 and is flanked

t apartment where Johann Wolfgang von by 5.5m statues of Castor and Pollux­ s Goethe enjoyed a happy Italian sojourn (de- ­reining in a couple of rearing horses. spite complaining of the noisy neighbours) If you’re in the neighbourhood on a Sun- from 1786 to 1788 is now a lovingly main- day, you can catch the weekly changing of tained small museum. Exhibits include the guard (6pm in summer, 4pm the rest of fascinating Piranesi engravings of 18th-­ the year). century Rome, as well as Goethe’s sketches and letters, plus some lovely sketches of oCHIESA DI SANTA MARIA him by his friend Tischbein. With advance DELLA VITTORIA CHURCH permission, ardent fans can use the library (Via XX Settembre 17; h8.30am-noon & 3.30- full of first editions. 6pm; mRepubblica) This modest church is an unlikely setting for an extraordinary work oVILLA MEDICI PALACE of art – Bernini’s extravagant and sexually Map p308 (%06 6 76 11; www.villamedici.it; Vi- charged Santa Teresa trafitta dall’amore ale Trinità dei Monti 1; gardens adult/reduced di Dio (Ecstasy of St Teresa). This daring €12/6; htours in Italian, French & English Tue- sculpture depicts Teresa, engulfed in the Sun; cafe 11am-6pm Tue-Sun; mSpagna) This folds of a flowing cloak, floating in ecstasy sumptuous Renaissance palace was built on a cloud while a teasing angel pierces her for ­Cardinal Ricci da Montepulciano in repeatedly with a golden arrow. 1540, but Ferdinando dei Medici bought Watching the whole scene from two it in 1576. It remained in Medici hands side balconies are a number of figures, until 1801, when Napoleon acquired it for including Cardinal Federico Cornaro, for the French Academy. Take a tour to see the whom the chapel was built. It’s a stunning 107 work, bathed in soft natural light filtering concave surfaces and the illuminated through a concealed window. Go in the af- by hidden windows cleverly transform the ternoon for the best effect. small space into a place of light and beauty. The church, completed in 1641, stands CHIESA DI SANT’ANDREA at the intersection known as the Quattro­ AL QUIRINALE CHURCH ­Fontane, after the late-16th-century foun- Map p308 (Via del Quirinale 29; h8.30am-noon tains on its four corners, representing & 2.30-6pm winter, 9am-noon & 3-6pm summer; ­Fidelity, Strength and the rivers Arno and gVia Nazionale) It’s said that in his old age . A clean-up job was completed in 2015, Bernini liked to come and enjoy the peace and they look better than they have for years – of this late-17th-century church, regarded just watch out for traffic as you admire by many as one of his greatest. Faced with them. severe space limitations, he managed to Borromini intended to be buried within produce a sense of grandeur by designing the church, but its monks would not permit an elliptical floor plan with a series of chap- this because of his suicide. els opening onto the central area. The opulent interior, decorated with BASILICA DEI SANTI APOSTOLI CHURCH polychrome marble, stucco and gilding, Map p308 (Piazza dei Santissimi Apostoli; h7am- Triden was a favourite of Pope Alexander VII, who noon & 4-7pm; gVia IV Novembre) This much-­ used it while in residence at the Palazzo del altered 6th-century church is dedicated to

Quirinale. the apostles James and Philip, whose relics Trevit e, & t he Quirinale are in the crypt. Its most obvious attraction is CHIESA DI SAN CARLO the with its Renaissance arches and ALLE QUATTRO FONTANE CHURCH the two-tier facade topped by 13 towering Map p308 (Via del Quirinale 23; h10am-1pm & figures. Inside, the flashy baroque ­interior 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, noon-1pm Sun; was completed in 1714 by Carlo and Fran­ gVia Nazionale) This tiny church is a master- cesco Fontana. Highlights include the ceiling piece of Roman baroque. It was Borromini’s frescoes by Baciccia and Antonio Canova’s first church, and the play of convex and grandiose tomb of Pope Clement XIV.

PALAZZO DEL QUIRINALE Si gh

Overlooking the high-up Piazza del Quirinale is the im- DON’T MISS… t

posing presidential palace, formerly the papal summer s residence. You can visit by booking at least five days ¨¨Sunday concerts ahead; the shorter tour visits the sumputous reception held in the chapel rooms, while the longer tour includes the interiors as designed by Carlo well as the gardens and the carriages. Maderno The immense Palazzo del Quirinale served as the ¨¨Splendid exhibitions papal summer residence for almost three centuries, in the former stables until the keys were begrudgingly handed over to ’s new king in 1870. Since 1948 it has been home of the PRACTICALITIES Presidente della Repubblica, Italy’s head of state. Pope Gregory XIII (r 1572–85) originally chose the ¨¨Map p308 site and over the next 150 years the top architects of the ¨¨%06 4 69 91 day worked on it, including Bernini, Domenico Fontana ¨¨www.quirinale.it and Carlo Maderno. ¨¨Piazza del Quirinale On the other side of the piazza, the palace’s former ¨¨admission €10, stables, the Scuderie Papali al Quirinale (%06 3996 30 min tour €1.50, 7500; www.scuderiequirinale.it; Via XXIV Maggio 16; tickets 2½hr tour €10 around €12), is now a magnificent space that hosts art exhibitions; recent shows have included Matisse and ¨¨h9.30am-4pm Frida Kahlo. Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, closed Aug ¨¨mBarberini 108

MIRACULOUS MADONNAS Overlooking Vicolo delle Bollette, a tiny lane near the Trevi Fountain, there’s a small, simple painting of the Virgin Mary. This is the Madonna della Pietà, one of the most famous of Rome’s madonnelle (small madonnas). There are estimated to be around 730 of these roadside madonnas in Rome’s historic centre, most placed on street corners or outside historic palazzi. Many were added in the 16th and 17th centuries, but their origins date to pagan times when votive wall shrines were set up at street corners to honour the Lares, household spirits believed to protect passers-by. When Christianity emerged in the 4th century AD, these shrines were simply rededicated to the religion’s new icons. Their presence was also intended to deter devout Catholics from committing street crime. The subject of much popular devotion, they are shrouded in myth. The most fa- mous legend dates to 1796 when news of a French invasion is said to have caused 36 madonnelle, including the Madonna della Pietà, to move their eyes and some even to cry. A papal commission set up to investigate subsequently declared 26 madonnas to

Triden be officially miraculous. As well as food for the soul, the madonnas also provided a valuable public service. Until street lamps were introduced in the 19th century, the candles and lamps that lit up the images were the city’s only source of street lighting. e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale

Surrounding the basilica are two impos- politicians, musicians and murderers. You ing baroque palazzi: at the end of the square, can also visit the laboratory where the wax- Palazzo Balestra, which was given to James works are created. Stuart, the Old Pretender, in 1719 by Pope Clement XI, and opposite, Palazzo Odels- calchi, with its impressive Bernini facade. 1 Piazza Barberini CITTÀ DELL’ACQUA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE & Via Veneto Map p308 (www.archeodomani.com; Vicolo GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE ANTICA: del Puttarello 25; adult/reduced €3/1; h11am- PALAZZO BARBERINI GALLERY

m Si gh 5.30pm Wed-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; Barber- See p110. ini) The little-known excavations of Vicus PIAZZA BARBERINI PIAZZA

t Caprarius (the name of the ancient street) s include a Roman house and a Hadrian-era Map p308 (mBarberini) More a traffic thor- cistern that connected with the oughfare than a place to linger, this noisy cistern. Eight metres deep, they lie just a square is named after the Barberini family, few paces from the eternal hubbub of the one of Rome’s great dynastic clans. In the Trevi Fountain – the spring waters that centre, the Bernini-designed Fontana del once fed these waterworks now gush forth Tritone (Fountain of the Triton308) depicts the from the fountain. sea-god Triton blowing a stream of water This is a chance to appreciate the many from a conch while seated in a large scallop layers that lie beneath present-day Rome; shell supported by four dolphins. Bernini mosaics and decorations discovered dur- also crafted the (Fountain ing the excavations are displayed in a small of the Bees308) in the northeastern corner, museum. again for the Barberini family, whose crest featured three bees in flight. MUSEO DELLE CERE MUSEUM Map p308 (%06 679 64 82; www.museodel- CONVENTO DEI CAPPUCCINI MUSEUM lecereroma.com; Piazza dei Santissimi Apostoli Map p308 (%06 487 11 85; Via Vittorio Veneto 67; adult/reduced €9/7; h9am-9pm; gVia IV 27; adult/reduced €8/6, audioguide €4; h9am- Novembre) Rome’s waxwork museum is said 7pm; mBarberini) This church and convent to have the world’s third-largest collec- complex has turned its extraordinary Capu- tion, which comprises more than 250 fig- chin cemetery into cash by adding a flashy ures, ranging from Barack Obama to Snow museum and bumping up the entrance White, plus plentiful other popes, poets, fee. However, it’s still worth visiting what is possibly Rome’s strangest sight: crypt 109

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a B i i B 000 000 e L 00000000 es el de V000 e o gh s o c 000 or i ' 000 B an n c F 000 F 000000COLONNA e a iori 000 lla 000000 a 000 de 000000 00Via0 000000 Neighbourhood Walk 22Literary Footsteps

artistic and cinematic connections, this Si gh START PINCIO HILL GARDENS picturesque cobbled street was where Tru- END KEATS–SHELLEY HOUSE

man Capote wrote his short story Lola about t LENGTH 1KM; TWO HOURS a raven who lived with him at his apartment. s Fellini, Picasso, Stravinsky, and Puccini all This walk explores the literary haunts, lived here at some point, and Gregory Peck’s both real and fictional, which speckle the ­character in Roman Holiday had his apart- ­Tridente district. ment here (exteriors were shot at No 51). Begin your walk in 1Pincio Hill Next make your way to Via del Corso, to (p103), where Henry James’ Daisy ­Gardens see the 5Casa di Goethe (p106) where Miller walked with Frederick Winterborne. Goethe had a whale of a time from 1786 to Then make your way downhill to Piazza del 1788. Head down Via del Corso then turn Popolo, and visit the church of 2Santa left up into Via dei Condotti, where ­William Maria del Popolo (p101). Dan Brown’s Thackeray stayed in 1854, stopping at ­Angels and Demons made use of this 6Caffè Greco (p116), a former haunt ­remarkable church in its convoluted plot. of Casanova, Goethe, Keats, Byron and From here it’s merely a few steps to Shelley. Leaving here, you’re almost at the (p219), favoured by 3Hotel de Russie 7Spanish Steps (p100), which Dickens the artistic avant-garde in the early 20th described in his Pictures from Italy. Byron century. Jean Cocteau stayed here with stayed on Piazza di Spagna, at No 25, in Picasso, and wrote a letter home in which 1817. Just south of the steps is the apart- he described plucking oranges from outside ments where Keats died of TB, aged just his window. 25. The 8Keats–Shelley House (p104) Running parallel to Via del Babuino is is now a small museum devoted to the 4Via Margutta (p105). Famous for its ­romantic poets. 110 GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE ANTICA: PALAZZO BARBERINI

The sumptuous Palazzo Barberini is an architec- DON’T MISS… tural feast before you even consider the National Art ­Collection that it houses. This huge baroque palace ¨¨Pietro da Cortona’s was commissioned­ by Urban VIII to celebrate the painted ceiling ­Barberini family’s rise to papal power. Many high-profile ¨¨Raphael’s La architects worked on it, including rivals Bernini and Fornarina Borromini; the former contributed a large squared ¨¨Works by ­staircase, the latter a helicoidal one. ­Caravaggio Amid the masterpieces, don’t miss Pietro da ­Cortona’s ceiling frescoes in the 1st-floor salon, Il PRACTICALITIES Trionfo della Divina Provvidenza (Triumph of Divine Providence; 1632–39). Other must-sees include Hans ¨¨Map p308 Holbein’s famous portrait of a pugnacious Henry VIII ¨ % Triden ¨ 06 3 28 10 (c 1540), Filippo Lippi’s luminous Annunciazione e due ¨¨www.galleriabar- devoti (Annunciation with two Kneeling Donors) and berini.benicultural.it Raphael’s (The Baker’s Girl). Works by

e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale ¨¨Via delle Quattro Caravaggio include San Francesco d’Assisi in medit­ Fontane 13 azione (St Francis in Meditation), Narciso (Narcissus; ¨¨adult/reduced 1571–1610) and the mesmerisingly horrific Giuditta e €7/3.50, incl Palazzo Oloferne (Judith Beheading Holophernes; c 1597–1600). Corsini ¨¨h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun

chapels where everything from the picture restaurants. The huge building on the right frames to the light fittings is made of hu- as you walk up is the US embassy. man bones. The multimedia museum tells

E the story of the Capuchin order of monks, GAGOSIAN GALLERY GALLERY a

ti ng including a work attributed to Caravaggio: Map p308 (%06 420 86 498; www.gagosian.com; St Francis in Meditation. Via Francesco Crispi 16; h10.30am-7pm Tue-Sat; Between 1528 and 1870 the resident mBarberini) F Since it opened in 2007, Capuchin monks used the bones of 4000 the Rome branch of Larry Gagosian’s con- of their departed brothers to create this temporary art empire has hosted the big mesmerising, macabre memento mori (re- names of modern art: Cy Twombly, Dam- minder of death). There’s an arch crafted ien Hirst and Lawrence Weiner, to name from hundreds of skulls, vertebrae used a few. The gallery is housed in an artfully as fleurs-de-lis and light fixtures made of ­converted 1920s bank, and was designed by ­femurs. Happy holidays! Roman architect Firouz Galdo and English- man ­Caruso St John. VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA Always worth a look, exhibitions are Map p308 (mBarberini) Curving up from Pi- housed in a dramatic, airy 750 sq m, and azza Barberini to Villa Borghese, Via Vitto- the building is fronted by a theatrical neo- rio Veneto is the spiritual home of la dolce classical colonnaded facade. vita – the Rome of the swinging ’50s and ’60s that was epitomised in Fellini’s epony- mous film. However, the atmosphere of Fellini’s Rome has long gone and the street 5 EATING today, while still a gracious sweep, has the Rome’s designer shopping district may feel of a tourist trap. be fashionista heaven, but it retains a Luxury hotels occupy many of the tow- neighbourhood feel, albeit a particularly ering streetside palazzi, and waistcoated wealthy one. Lots of classy eateries are waiters stand on the tree-lined pavement, sandwiched between the boutiques. tempting passers-by into their overpriced 111 In the Quirinale and Trevi Fountain area, (buffalo mozzarella with San Daniele dry- take care selecting where to eat, as there cured ham). It’s a good choice for families. are a lot of unexciting just-for-tourists restaurants. But gems still sparkle AL GRAN SASSO TRATTORIA €€ among the stones, with some notable Map p308 (%06 321 48 83; www.algransasso. restaurants around the presidential com; Via di Ripetta 32; meals €35; h12.30- palace and parliament – Italian 2.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Sun-Fri; mFlaminio) politicians are a discerning bunch when A top lunchtime spot, this is a classic, it comes to dining out. dyed-in-the-wool trattoria specialising in old-school country cooking. It’s a relaxed place with a welcoming vibe, garish murals 5 on the walls (strangely often a good sign) Piazza del Popolo and tasty, value-for-money food. The fried & Around dishes are excellent, or try one of the daily FATAMORGANA GELATERIA € specials, chalked up on the board outside. Map p308 (Via Laurina 10; hnoon-11pm; ­mFlaminio) The wonderful all-natural IL MARGUTTA RISTORARTE VEGETARIAN €€ % ­Fatamorgana, purveyors of arguably Map p308 ( 06 678 60 33; www.ilmargutta. Triden h Rome’s best artisanal­ ice cream, now has it; Via Margutta 118; meals €40; 12.30-3pm & v m this handy central branch. Innovative and 7-11.30pm; ; Spagna, Flaminio) Vegetar- ian restaurants in Rome are rarer than classic tastes of heaven abound, including Trevit e, & t he Quirinale flavours such as pear and caramel, all made parking spaces, and this airy art gallery– from the finest seasonal ingredients. restaurant is an unusually chic way to eat your greens. Dishes are excellent and most DEI GRACCHI GELATERIA € produce is organic, with offerings such as Map p308 (Via di Ripetta 261; ice cream from €2; artichoke hearts with potato cubes and h11.30am-10pm, to midnight Jun-Sep; mFla- smoked provolone cheese. Best value is the minio) A new outpost of the venerable Gela- weekday (€15 to €18) and weekend (€25) taria dei Gracchi, close to the Vatican, this ­buffet brunch. There’s a vegan menu and serves up superb ice cream made from the live ­music weekends. best ingredients, with an excellent array of classic flavours. It’s handily located just off DA PIETRO OSTERIA €€ Piazza del Popolo, so you can take your pick Map p308 (%06 320 88 16; http://hostariadapi-

etro.com; Via Gesù e Maria 18; meals around €45; and then wander around the square as you E a revel in your excellent selection. ti ng

BUCCONE RISTORANTE, WINE BAR € ROME’S OPTICAL ILLUSIONS % Map p308 ( 06 361 21 54; Via di Ripetta 19; Aptly for such a theatrical city, Rome h meals €20; 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm contains some magical visual tricks. m Mon-Sat; Flaminio) Step in under the faded Overlooking Piazza del Popolo, there gilt-and-mirrored sign and you’ll feel as are the seemingly twin churches: though you’ve gone back in time. Once a constructed to look identical while coach house, then a tavern, this building occupying different-sized sites. Then became Buccone in the 1960s, furnished there’s Borromini’s perspective-defy- with 19th-century antiques and lined with ing corridor at (p78), around a thousand Italian wines. It serves Andrea Pozzo’s amazing trompe l’oeil simple food such as mixed plates of cured at the Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loy- meat and cheese, but on Saturday offers a ola (p83) and the secret keyhole view proper hot cena (dinner). from Priorato dei Cavalieri di Malta (p176). Strangest of all is the view of St PIZZA RÉ PIZZA € Peter’s Dome from Via Piccolomini Map p308 (%06 321 14 68; Via di Ripetta 14; piz- near Villa Doria Pamphilj (p162). zas €7-10; hnoon-midnight; mFlaminio) Part of Here the dome looms, filling the space a chain, but a good one, this popular piz- at the end of the road, framed by trees. zeria offers Neapolitan-style pizzas, with But the really curious thing is that as thick doughy bases and diverse toppings. you move towards the cupola it seems The salads are fresh and the antipasti is to get smaller rather than larger as the great – try the fried things or the mozzarel- view widens. la fresca di bufala e prosciutto San Daniele 112 hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, closed Aug; mSpagna) BABETTE ITALIAN €€€ This is an appealing small Roman osteria, Map p308 (%06 321 15 59; Via Margutta 1; meals occupying several narrow rooms, with pat- €45-55; h1-3pm Tue-Sun, 7-10.45pm daily, closed terned tiled floors, arched exposed-stone Jan & Aug; v; mSpagna, Flaminio) Babette is ceilings, and cheery red tablecloths. Expect run by two sisters who used to produce a robust local cuisine, with dishes such as fashion magazine, which accounts for its saltimbocca alla romana (veal with pro- effortlessly chic interior of exposed brick sciutto and sage) or melanzane alla parmi- walls and vintage painted signs. You’re in giana (layered aubergine with tomato and for a feast too, as the cooking is delicious, ham). Pietro’s father runs the long-standing with a sophisticated, creative French twist Tullio restaurant close to Barberini. (think tortiglioni with courgette and pista- chio pesto). The torta Babette is the food of ALL’ORO ITALIAN €€€ the gods, a light-as-air lemon cheesecake. Map p308 (Via del Vantaggio 14; Tasting menu The weekend lunch buffet (adult/child €98, meals €90; mFlaminio) A Michelin- €28/18) is a good deal, including water, starred fine-dining restaurant, All’Oro bread, dessert and coffee. established itself under chef Riccardo Di

Triden Giacinto in the upmarket suburb of Pari- DAL BOLOGNESE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN €€€ oli. It’s now transferred to the contem- Map p308 (%06 361 14 26; Piazza del Popolo 1; porary art-styled First Luxury Art Hotel, meals €90; hTue-Sun, closed Aug; mFlaminio)

e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale with white surroundings and sophisticated The moneyed and models mingle at this dishes such as ravioli filled with mascar- historically chic restaurant. Dine inside, pone, duck ragout and red wine reduction, surrounded by wood panelling and exotic and roasted suckling pig with potatoes and flowers, or outside, people-watching with black truffle sauce.

BERNINI VS BORROMINI Born within a year of each other, the two giants of Roman baroque hated each other with a vengeance. Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680), suave, self-confident and politically adept, was the polar opposite of his great rival Francesco Borromini (1599–1677), a solitary and peculiar man who often argued with clients. Borromini’s

passion for architecture was a matter of life and death: once he caught a man disfigur- E

a ing some pieces of stone while he was working on rebuilding San Giovanni in Laterano ti ng and had him beaten so fiercely that he later died of his injuries (Borromini received a Papal pardon). Their paths first crossed at St Peter’s Basilica. Borromini, who had been working as an assistant to Carlo Maderno, a distant relative and the basilica’s lead architect, was furious when Bernini was appointed to take over the project on Maderno’s death. Nevertheless, he stayed on as Bernini’s chief assistant and actually contributed to the design of the baldachin – a work for which Bernini took full public credit. To make matters worse, Bernini was later appointed chief architect on Palazzo Barberini, again in the wake of Maderno, and again to Borromini’s disgust. Over the course of the next 45 years, the two geniuses competed for commis- sions and public acclaim. Bernini flourished under the Barberini pope Urban VIII (r 1623–44) and Borromini under his Pamphilj successor Innocent X (r 1644–1655), but all the while their loathing simmered. Borromini accused Bernini of profiting from his (Borromini’s) talents, while Bernini claimed that Borromini ‘had been sent to destroy architecture’. Certainly, both had very different views on architecture: for Bernini it was all about portraying an experience to elicit an emotional response, while Bor- romini favoured a more geometrical approach, manipulating classical forms to create dynamic, vibrant spaces. In their lifetimes, Bernini had the better of the rivalry. His genius was rarely ques- tioned and when he died he was widely regarded as one of Europe’s greatest artists. Borromini, in contrast, struggled to win popular and critical support and after a life of depression committed suicide in 1677. Because of the way he died, he couldn’t even be buried in the church he’d chosen for himself, San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. 113 views over Piazza del Popolo. As the name You can eat it on the spot or buy frozen suggests, Emilia-Romagna dishes are the portions that will keep for a few hours until name of the game; everything is good, but you’re ready to tuck into it at home. It also try the tortellini in soup, tagliatelle with sells ice cream. ragú, or the damn fine fillet steak. VENCHI GELATERIA € EDY TRATTORIA €€€ Map p308 (Via della Croce 25; gelato from €2.50; Map p308 (%06 3600 1738; Vicolo del Babuino mSpagna) Choco-specialists Venchi operate 4; meals €60; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm Mon- this handily located, usually mobbed gela- Sat; mSpagna) This classy neighbourhood taria, with a wide range of flavours; when restaurant’s high-ceilinged, intimate in- plumping for fruity or creamy, bear in mind terior is peppered with paintings. Despite they’re specialists in all things chocolate. the tourist-central location, it caters to mainly Italian clientele; the food, such as CASA CONTI ITALIAN €€ linguine al broccoletti, is delicious. In nice Map p308 (%06 6920 0735; Via della Croce; meals weather there are a few tables outside on €40; h1-3pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna) This unique the ­cobbled street. place has double-height ceilings and original

tiled floors, and is filled with fascinating an- Triden tiques. With few tables, it’s a great hide­away 5 Piazza di Spagna for a simple Roman lunch with a dish of the

day such as fettucine, and a wide choice of Trevit e, & t he Quirinale & Around wines. Delicious desserts may include can- PASTIFICIO FAST FOOD € noli (custard-filled pastries), crostate (jam Map p308 (Via della Croce 8; pasta, wine & water­ tarts), ­tiramisu or chocolate tart. €4; hlunch 1-3pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna) A great find in this pricey ’hood. Pasticcio is a ANTICA ENOTECA WINE BAR €€ pasta shop that serves up two choices of Map p308 (%06 679 08 96; Via della Croce 76b; pasta at lunch time. It’s fast food, Italian meals €35; hnoon-midnight; mSpagna) Near style – freshly cooked (if you time it right) the Spanish Steps, locals and tourists alike pasta, with wine and water included. It’s no prop up the 19th-century wooden bar, or leisurely lunch: there’s not much room so sit at outside tables or in the tastefully you’ll have to nab a chair while you can and distressed interior, sampling wines by the glass, snacking on antipasti and ordering

eat quickly. This is better than taking away, E however; if you do that, you’ll miss out on well-priced soul food such as soups, pasta, a your drink and your pasta will get cold. polenta and pizza. ti ng

GINA CAFE € FIASCHETTERIA Map p308 (%06 678 02 51; Via San Sebastian- BELTRAMME TRATTORIA €€ ello 7a; snacks €8-16; h11am-8pm; mSpagna) Map p308 (Via della Croce 39; meals €40; Around the corner from the Spanish Steps, mSpagna) With a tiny dark interior whose this is an ideal place to drop once you’ve walls are covered in paintings and sketches shopped. Comfy white seats are strewn right up to the high ceilings, Fiaschette- with powder-blue cushions, and it gets ria (meaning ‘wine-sellers’) is a discreet, packed by a Prada-clad crowd, gossiping intimate, stuck-in-time place with a short and flirting over sophisticated salads and menu and no telephone. Clientele is a mix perfect panini. You can also order a €40/60 of tourists and fashionistas with appetites regular/deluxe picnic-for-two to take up to digging into traditional Roman dishes Villa Borghese. (pasta e ceci and so on).

POMPI DESSERTS € OTELLO ALLA CONCORDIA TRATTORIA €€ Map p308 (Via della Croce 82; tiramisu €4; Map p308 (%06 679 11 78; Via della Croce 81; h10.30am-9.30pm; mSpagna) Rome’s most meals €35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; famous vendor of tiramisu (which literally mSpagna) A perennial favourite with both means ‘pick me up’) sells takeaway cartons tourists and locals, Otello is a haven near of the deliciously yolky yet light-as-air des- the Spanish Steps. Outside seating is in the sert. As well as classic, it comes in pistachio vine-covered courtyard of an 18th-century and strawberry flavours. palazzo and inside is inviting, with walls hung with pictures. 114 oENOTECA REGIONALE ladies-who-lunch crowd, this chic, buzzy, PALATIUM RISTORANTE, BAR €€€ white-tiled, high-ceilinged place proffers Map p308 (%06 692 02 132; Via Frattina 94; all-day dining, with a focus on organic meals €55; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; dishes including unusual ingredients such gVia del Corso) A rich showcase of regional as quinoa. There are salads, pricey gour- bounty, run by the Regional Food Au- met sandwiches, pasta dishes, smoothies thority, this sleek wine bar serves excellent and shakes. local specialities, such as porchetta (pork roasted with herbs) or gnocchi alla Roma- OSTERIA MARGUTTA TRATTORIA €€€ % na con crema da zucca (potato dumplings Map p308 ( 06 323 10 25; www.osteriamargut- h Roman-style with cream of pumpkin), as ta.it; Via Margutta 82; meals €60; 12.30-3pm m well as an impressive array of Lazio wines & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; Spagna) Theatrical (try lesser-known drops such as Aleatico). Osteria Margutta is colourful inside and Aperitivo is a good bet too. There’s also a out: inside combines blue glass, rich reds tantalising array of artisanal cheese and and fringed lampshades, while outside it’s delicious salami and cold cuts. flowers and ivy (snap up a terrace table in summer). Plaques on the chairs testify to Triden IMÀGO ITALIAN €€€ the famous thespian bums they have sup- Map p308 (%06 6993 4726; www.imagores- ported. The menu combines classic and re- taurant.com; Piazza della Trinità dei Monti 6; gional dishes; desserts are homemade, and

e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale veg menus €120, tasting menus €130-140; h7- there’s a top wine list. 10.30pm; mSpagna) Even in a city of great views, the panoramas from the Hassler Hotel’s Michelin-starred romantic rooftop 5 Trevi Fountain restaurant are special (request the corner to the Quirinale table), extending over a sea of roofs to the great dome of St Peter’s Basilica. Comple- DA MICHELE PIZZA € menting the views are the bold, mod-Italian Map p308 (%349 2525347; Via dell’Umiltà 31; creations of culinary whizz, chef Francesco ­pizza slices from €3; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Apreda. Book ahead. summer; gVia del Corso) A handy address in Spagna district: buy your fresh, light and IL PALAZZETTO ITALIAN €€€ crispy pizza al taglio (by the slice), and % Map p308 ( 06 6993 41000; Via del Bottino 8; you’ll have a delicious fast lunch. It’s all ko- E

a meals €45; hnoon-8.30pm Tue-Sun; mSpagna) sher, so meat and cheese is not mixed. ti ng This sun-trap terrace, ideal for snacks and cocktails, is hidden at the top of the Span- ALICE PIZZA PIZZA € ish Steps. It’s perfect for a glass of prosecco Map p308 (www.alicepizza.it; Via di San Basilio (sparkling wine) and a salad or pasta dish 56; pizza slices from €3.50; h8.30am-4pm Mon- on a sunny day overlooking the comings and Sat; mBarberini) This hole-in-the-wall pizza goings on the steps. It also does a special al taglio place is busy with local workers, margherita pizza plus house wine for €18. tempted in by an enticing range of toppings that proffer something outside the norm, NINO TUSCAN €€€ with combinations that might include Em- Map p308 (%06 679 56 76; Via Borgognona mental and courgette, or aubergine with 11; meals €80; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon- chilli. There are a couple of seats inside, but Sat; mSpagna) With a look of wrought- they’ll only serve as a brief perch. iron chandeliers, polished dark wood and white tablecloths that has worked since it ANTICO FORNO FAST FOOD € opened in 1934, Nino is enduringly popular Map p308 (%06 679 28 66; Via delle Muratte 8; with the rich and famous. Waiters can be panini & pizza €3.50; h7am-10pm; gVia del Tri- brusque if you’re not on the A-list, but the tone) A mini-supermarket opposite the Trevi food is good hearty fare, including memo- Fountain, this busy place has a well-stocked rable steaks and Tuscan bean soup. deli where you can choose a filling for your freshly baked panino or pizza bianca, plus GINGER BRASSERIE €€€ an impressive selection of focaccia and Map p308 (%06 9603 6390; www.ginger.roma. crispy, delicious pizza al taglio from the it; Via Borgognona 43; meals €50; h10am- bakery counter at the back. It also sells cold 11.30pm; mSpagna) S Perfecto for the drinks and beers to complete your picnic. 115 BACCANO BRASSERIE €€ created to perfection. Try the incredibly Map p308 (www.baccanoroma.com; Via delle creamy pistachio. It also offers two types Muratte 23; meals €45; h8.30am-2am; gVia of panna: the usual whipped cream or the del Corso) Offering all-day dining in elegant, verging-on-sublime zabaglione (egg and laid-back surroundings (it’s nailed the Bal- marsala custard) ­combined with whipped thazar look: polished wood, potted palms, cream. high ceilings, cosy booths). However, if you’re in the mood for dinner, burgers, club FORNO CERULLI PIZZA € sandwiches, cocktails, aperitivi...you name Map p308 (Via di San Nicola da Tolentino 53; pizza it, they’ve got it covered. from €3; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri; mBarberini) This hidden-away pizza al taglio place is much IL CHIANTI TUSCAN €€ beloved by local office workers and the kind Map p308 (%06 678 75 50; Via del Lavatore 81- of place you’d blink and miss if you weren’t 82; meals €45, pizza €8-12; h12.30-3.30pm in the know, despite its recent refit. There’s & 7-11.30pm; gVia del Tritone) This pretty now a spacious area inside where you can ­ivy-clad wine bar is bottle-lined and sit at barstools and eat your slices of deli- wood-beamed inside, with watch-the- cious, freshly made pizza or foccacia. Eat in world-go-by streetside seating, backed by or take out. Triden a picturesque­ cascade of ivy, in summer. ­Cuisine is Tuscan, so the beef is particular- SAN CRISPINO GELATERIA € ly good, but it also serves up imaginative Map p308 (%06 679 39 24; Via della Panetteria Trevit e, & t he Quirinale salads and pizza. 42; tubs from €2.70; h11am-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat; mBarberini) This is the NANÀ VINI E CUCINA TRATTORIA €€ original place for gourmet gelato, though Map p308 (%06 6919 0750; Via della Panettaria it has far more rivals in the capital these 37; meals €45; h12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun; days. San Crispino, near the Trevi Foun- gVia del Tritone) An appealing and simple tain, serves strictly natural, seasonal fla- trattoria, specialising in Neopolitan fla- vours. Quality is high, but helpings are on vours. Eat in the high-ceilinged interior, the small side. No cones, as that’d detract under huge brass pipes, overlooking the from the taste. open kitchen, or outside on the piazzetta. Try la carne tenera scaloppine Nanà, oCOLLINE EMILIANE ITALIAN €€

cooked simply in white wine, and other Map p308 (%06 481 75 38; Via degli Avignonesi 22; E h a southern dishes. meals €50; 12.45-2.45pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-10.45pm ti ng Tue-Sat, closed Aug; mBarberini) This welcoming, LE TAMERICI SEAFOOD €€€ tucked-away restaurant just off Piazza Barber- % Map p308 ( 06 6920 0700; Vicolo Scavolino 79; ini flies the flag for Emilia-Romagna, the well- h meals €80; 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; fed Italian province that has blessed the world g Via del Tritone) Tucked-away Le Tamerici is with Parmesan, balsamic vinegar, bolognese a cream-hued, elegant escape from the Tre- sauce and Parma ham. This is a consistently vi Fountain hubbub outside. It impresses excellent place to eat; there are delicious with its wine list and range of digestivi, as meats, homemade pasta and rich ragù. Try to well as with its classy food, including light- save room for dessert too. as-air homemade pasta. The two intimate rooms with bleached-wood beamed ceil- AL MORO ITALIAN €€€ ings are a suitably discreet place to settle Map p308 (%06 678 34 96; Vicolo delle Bollette for an epicurean lunch. 13; meals €55; h1-3.30pm & 8-11.30pm Mon- Sat; gVia del Corso) This one-time Fellini haunt feels like a step back in time with its 5 Piazza Barberini picture-gallery dining rooms, Liberty wall & Via Veneto lamps, cantankerous buttoned-up waiters and old-money regulars. Join faux royals IL CARUSO GELATERIA € for soothing classics like cicoria al brodo (Via Collina 15; hnoon-9pm; mRepubblica) (chicory in broth) or melt-in-your-mouth Spot Il Caruso by the gelato-licking hordes veal liver with crusty sage and butter. ­outside. This artisanal ­gelateria only does a few strictly seasonal flavours, but they’re 116 DRINKING & perience to sit among the great maquettes 6 and sup an upmarket tea or knock back NIGHTLIFE some wine and snacks.

CAFFÈ GRECO CAFE 6 Piazza del Popolo Map p308 (%06 679 17 00; Via dei Condotti 86; & Around h9am-9pm; mSpagna) Caffè Greco opened in 1760 and is still working the look: pen- LA SCENA BAR guin waiters, red flock and age-spotted Map p308 (Via della Penna 22; h7am-1am; mFla- gilt mirrors. Casanova, Goethe, Wagner, minio) Part of the art-deco Hotel Locarno, Keats, Byron, Shelley and Baudelaire were this bar has a faded Agatha Christie–era all once regulars. Now there are fewer art- feel, and a greenery-shaded outdoor terrace ists and lovers and more shoppers and tour- bedecked in wrought-iron furniture. Cock- ists. Prices reflect this, unless you do as the tails cost €13 to €15, or you can partake of ­locals do and have a drink at the bar (caffè afternoon tea from 3pm to 6pm and aperi- bar/seated €1.50/6). tivo from 7pm to 10pm.

Triden CIAMPINI 2 CAFE STRAVINSKIJ BAR – Map p308 (%06 678 56 78; Viale Trinità dei Monti; HOTEL DE RUSSIE BAR h8am-9pm May-Oct; mSpagna) Hidden away Map p308 (%06 328 88 70; Via del Babuino 9; e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale a short walk from the top of the Spanish h9am-1am; mFlaminio) Can’t afford to stay Steps towards the Pincio Hill Gardens, this at the celeb-magnet Hotel de Russie? Then graceful cafe-restaurant has a garden-party splash out on a drink at its swish bar. There vibe, with green wooden latticework sur- are sofas inside, but best is a drink in the rounding the white-clothed tables. There sunny courtyard, with sunshaded tables are lovely views over the backstreets behind overlooked by terraced gardens. Impos- Spagna, and the gelato is renowned (par- sibly romantic in the best dolce vita style, ticularly the chocolate truffle). it’s perfect for a cocktail (from €20) or beer (€13) and some posh snacks. 6 ROSATI CAFE Piazza Barberini Map p308 (%06 322 58 59; Piazza del Popolo 5; & Via Veneto

D r h7.30am-11.30pm; mFlaminio) Rosati, over- MICCA CLUB CLUB

i looking the vast disc of Piazza del Popolo, %

n Map p308 ( 393 3236244; www.miccaclub.com;

ki was once the hang-out of the left-wing chat- Via degli Avignonesi; mBarberini) No longer in ng tering classes. Authors Italo Calvino and its brick-arched cellar in Southern Rome,

&Ni gh Alberto Moravia used to drink here while but now close to Piazza Barberini, Micca their right-wing counterparts went to the Club now has a less arresting interior but Canova (Map p308; %06 361 22 31; Piazza del still retains its vintage, quirky vibe. This is Popolo 16; h8am-midnight; mFlaminio) across Rome’s burlesque club, where you can sip t

l the square. Today tourists are the main cli- cocktails while watching shimmying acts i fe entele, and the views are as good as ever. upping the kitsch factor. Reserving a table As usual, drinking standing up at the by phone is advised. bar will get you a reasonably priced coffee, while you’ll pay a premium for a seat. MOMA CAFE Map p308 (%06 4201 1798; Via di San Basilio; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat, closed Aug; mBar- 6 Piazza di Spagna berini) Molto trendy, this cafe-restaurant is & Around a find. It’s sleekly sexy and popular with workers from nearby offices. There’s a small CANOVA TADOLINI CAFE stand-up cafe downstairs, with a nice little Map p308 (%06 3211 0702; Via del Babuino deck outside where you can linger longer 150a/b; h9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna) In over coffee and delicious dolcetti. Upstairs 1818 sculptor Canova signed a contract for is a recommended cucina creativa (creative this studio that agreed it would be forever cuisine) restaurant (meals €70). preserved for sculpture. The place is still stuffed with statues and it’s a unique ex- 117 3 ENTERTAINMENT SPAS GREGORY’S LIVE MUSIC Map p308 (%06 679 63 86; www.gregorysjazz. The glamorous and gorgeous day spa (Map com; Via Gregoriana 54d; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun Hotel de Russie Wellness Zone p308; %06 3288 8820; www.hotelderus- Sep-Jun; mBarberini, Spagna) If Gregory’s sie.it; Via del Babuino 9; h6.30am-10pm; were a tone of voice, it’d be husky: unwind mFlaminio) is in one of Rome’s best in the downstairs bar, then unwind some more on squashy sofas upstairs to some hotels, and allows entrance to the gym slinky live jazz and swing, with quality lo- and steam room. Treatments are also cal performers, who also like to hang out available, including shiatsu and deep- here. tissue massage; a 50-minute massage costs around €95. Another soothing TEATRO QUIRINO THEATRE retreat is Kami Spa (Map p308; %06 Map p308 (%06 679 45 85; www.teatroquirino. 4201 0039; www.kamispa.com; Via De- it; Via delle Vergini 7; gVia del Tritone) Within gli Avignonesi 11-12; massage €120-160; splashing distance of the Trevi Fountain, mBarberini), close to Piazza Barberini, which has treatment rooms and a pool. this grand 19th-century theatre produces Triden the odd new work and a stream of well- known classics – expect to see works (in Ital- PELLETTERIA NIVES ACCESSORIES

ian) by Arthur Miller, Tennessee Williams, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale Map p308 (%333 3370831; Via delle Carrozze 16; Shakespeare, Seneca and Luigi Pirandello. h9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna) Take TEATRO SISTINA THEATRE the rickety lift to this workshop, choose Map p308 (%06 420 07 11; www.ilsistina.com; Via from the softest leathers, and you will Sistina 129; mBarberini) Big-budget theatre shortly be the proud owner of a handmade, spectaculars, musicals, concerts and comic designer-style bag, wallet, belt or briefcase star turns are the staples of the Sistina’s – take a design with you. Bags cost €200 to ever-conservative, ever-popular repertoire. €350 and take around a week to make.

FABRIANO ARTS, CRAFTS Map p308 (%06 3260 0361; www.fabrianobou- 7 SHOPPING tique.com; Via del Babuino 173; h10am-8pm;

m

Flaminio, Spagna) Fabriano makes station- E ery sexy, with deeply desirable leather-­ n t er bound diaries, funky notebooks and

7 Piazza del Popolo ­products embossed with street maps of t a

Rome. It’s perfect for picking up a gift, with i & Around nmen t other items including beautifully made BOTTEGA DI MARMORARO ARTS leather key rings (€10) and quirky paper h Map p308 (Via Margutta 53b; 8am-7.30pm jewellery by local designers. Mon-Sat; mFlaminio) A particularly char- ismatic hole-in-the-wall shop lined with BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE SHOES marble carvings, where you can get marble Map p308 (Via del Babuino 34; h10am-8pm; tablets engraved with any inscription you mFlaminio, Spagna) For classic, handmade like (€15). Peer inside at lunchtime and you Italian women’s shoes that won’t crack the might see the cheerfully quizzical mar- credit card, head to Barrilà. This boutique moraro, Enrico Fiorentini, cooking pasta stocks myriad styles in soft leather. From for his lunch next to the open log fire. the window they all look a bit traditional, but you’re bound to find something you’ll DANIELLE SHOES like in the jam-packed interior. Map p308 (%06 679 24 67; Via Frattina 85a; h10.30am-7.30pm; mSpagna) If you’re female DISCOUNT DELL’ALTA MODA CLOTHING and in need of an Italian shoe fix, this is an Map p308 (%06 361 37 96; Via Gesù e Maria 14; essential stop on your itinerary. It sells both h10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 3.30- classic and fashionable styles – foxy heels, 7.30pm Mon; mFlaminio, Spagna) Discount boots and ballet pumps – at extremely rea- dell’Alta Moda sells big names, such as sonable prices. Shoes are soft leather and Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci, at ­knock-down come in myriad colours. 118 prices (around 50% off). It’s worth a you to bring back the art of letter writing, rummage.­ plus an amazing choice of notebooks, art stuff and trinkets. 7 West of Via Del Corso LUCIA ODESCALCHI JEWELLERY Map p308 (%06 6992 5506; Palazzo Odescal- MERCATO DELLE STAMPE MARKET chi, Piazza dei Santissimi Apostoli 81; h9.30am- Map p308 (Largo della Fontanella di Borghese; 2pm Mon-Fri; mSpagna) If you’re looking for h7am-1pm Mon-Sat; gPiazza Augusto Im- a unique piece of statement jewellery that peratore) The Mercato delle Stampe (Print will make an outfit, this is the place to head Market) is well worth a look if you’re a fan to. Housed in the evocative archives of the of vintage books and old prints. Squirrel family palazzo, the avant-garde pieces of- through the permanent stalls and among ten have an almost medieval beauty, and the tired posters and dusty back editions, run from incredible polished steel and and you might turn up some interesting chain mail to pieces created out of pearls music scores, architectural engravings or and fossils. Beautiful. Prices start at around chromolithographs of Rome. €140. Triden L’OLFATTORIO BEAUTY C.U.C.I.N.A. HOMEWARES Map p308 (%06 361 23 25; Via di Ripetta 34; Map p308 (%06 679 12 75; Via Mario de’ Fiori h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; h e, Trevit e, & t he Quirinale 65; 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, mFlaminio) This is like an enoteca (wine 10.30am-7.30pm Sat; mSpagna) If you need bar), but with perfume instead of drinks: a foodie gadget, C.U.C.I.N.A. is the place. scents are concocted by names such as Ar- Make your own cucina (kitchen) look the tisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, Les Parfums part with the designerware from this fa- de Rosine and Coudray. The assistants will mous shop, with myriad devices you’ll guide you through different combinations of decide you simply must have, from jelly scents to work out your ideal fragrance. Ex- moulds to garlic presses. clusive perfumes are available to buy. Smell- ings are free but you should book ahead. FURLA ACCESSORIES Map p308 (%06 6920 0363; Piazza di Spagna IL MARE BOOKS 22; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun; Map p308 (%06 361 20 91; Via Del Vantaggio 19; mSpagna) Simple, good-quality bags in soft

S hopp mFlaminio) Ahoy there. Specialising in eve- leather and a brilliant array of colours is rything mare (sea) related, this friendly why the handbagging hordes keep flocking bookshop has maritime books in Italian, to Furla, where all sorts of accessories, from i

ng English and French, nautical charts, bin- sunglasses to shoes, are made. There are oculars, pirate flags, model yachts, posters many other branches dotted across Rome. and Lonely Planet guidebooks. SERMONETA ACCESSORIES TOD’S SHOES Map p308 (%06 679 19 60; www.sermonetagloves. Map p308 (%06 6821 0066; Via della Fontanella com; Piazza di Spagna 61; h9.30am-8pm Mon- di Borghese 56; gVia del Corso) Tod’s trade- Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; mSpagna) Buying leather mark is its rubber-studded loafers (the idea gloves in Rome is a rite of passage for some, was to reduce those pesky driving scuffs), and its most famous glove-seller is the place perfect weekend footwear for kicking back to do it. Choose from a kaleidoscopic range at your country estate. of quality leather and suede gloves lined with silk and cashmere. An expert assistant will size up your hand in a glance. Just don’t 7 Piazza di Spagna expect them to crack a smile. & Around ANGLO-AMERICAN BOOKSHOP BOOKS VERTECCHI ART ARTS Map p308 (%06 679 52 22; Via della Vite 102; Map p308 (Via della Croce 70; h3.30-7.30pm h10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 3.30-7.30pm Mon; Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat; mSpagna) Ideal mSpagna) Particularly good for univer- for last-minute gift buying, this large pa- sity reference books, the Anglo-American perware and art shop has beautiful printed is well stocked and well known. It has an paper, cards and envelopes that will inspire excellent range of literature, travel guides, 119 children’s books and maps, and if it hasn’t got the book you want, they’ll order it. 7 Trevi Fountain FENDI CLOTHING to the Quirinale Map p308 (%06 69 66 61; Largo Goldoni 420; LIBRERIA GIUNTI AL PUNTO BOOKS h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm & 3-7pm Map p308 (%06 699 41 045; www.giuntial- Sun; mSpagna) A temple to subtly bling- punto.it; Piazza dei Santissimi Apostoli 59-65; ing accessories, this multistorey art-deco h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; gPiazza Venezia) building is the Fendi mothership: this is The ‘Straight to the Point’ children’s book- the global headquarters, as the brand was shop is an ideal place to distract your kids. born in Rome. Fendi is particularly famous Large, colourful and well stocked, it has for its products made of leather and (more thousands of titles in Italian and a selec- ­controversially) fur. tion of books in French, Spanish, German and English, as well as a good range of toys, FOCACCI FOOD from Play Doh to puzzles. Map p308 (%06 679 12 28; Via della Croce 43; h8am-8pm; mSpagna) One of several smash- LA RINASCENTE DEPARTMENT STORE ing delis along this pretty street, this is the Map p308 (%06 679 76 91; Galleria Alberto Triden place to buy cheese, cold cuts, smoked fish, Sordi, ; h10am-9pm; gVia del caviar, pasta, olive oil and wine. Corso) La Rinascente is a stately, upmarket

­department store, with a particularly buzz- Trevit e, & t he Quirinale FRATELLI FABBI FOOD ing ­cosmetics department, all amid art-­ Map p308 (%06 679 06 12; Via della Croce 27; nouveau interiors. h8am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna) A small but flavour-packed delicatessen, this is a good GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI SHOPPING CENTRE place to pick up all sorts of Italian delica- Map p308 (Piazza Colonna; h10am-10pm; gVia cies – fine cured meats, buffalo mozzarella del Corso) This elegant stained-glass arcade from Campania, parmigiano reggiano, appeared in Alberto Sordi’s 1973 classic, ­olive oil, porchetta from – as well as Polvere di Stelle, and has since been re- Iranian caviar. named for Rome’s favourite actor, who died in 2003. It’s a serene place to browse stores BULGARI JEWELLERY such as Zara and Feltrinelli, and there’s an Map p308 (%06 679 38 76; Via dei Condotti 10; airy cafe ideal for a quick coffee break. h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun & Mon; S hopp mSpagna) If you have to ask the price, you can’t afford it. Sumptuous window displays 7

Piazza Barberini i mean you can admire the world’s finest jew- ng ellery without spending a centesimo. & Via Veneto UNDERGROUND MARKET FAUSTO SANTINI SHOES Map p308 (%06 3600 5345; Via Francesco Crispi Map p308 (%06 678 41 14; Via Frattina 120; 96, underground car park; h3-8pm h11am-7.30pm Mon, 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, Sat & 10.30am-7.30pm Sun, 2nd weekend of the 11am-2pm & 3-7pm Sun; mSpagna) Rome’s month Sep-Jun; mBarberini) Monthly market best-known shoe designer, Fausto Santini held underground in a car park near Villa is famous for his beguilingly simple, archi- Borghese. There are more than 150 stalls tectural shoe designs, with beautiful boots selling everything from antiques and col- and shoes made from butter-soft leather. lectables to clothes and toys. Colours are beautiful, the quality impecca- ble. Seek out the end-of-line discount shop (p155) if this looks out of your price range. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 214

Sleeping

From opulent five-star to chic boutique hotels, family-run pensions, B&Bs, hostels and convents, Rome has accommodation to please everyone. But while there’s plenty of choice, rates are universally high and you’ll need to book early to get the best deal.

Pensions & Hotels Rental Accommodation The bulk of Rome’s accommodation consists For longer stays, renting an apartment will of pensioni (pensions) and alberghi (hotels). generally work out cheaper than an extended A pensione is a small, family-run hotel, hotel sojourn. Bank on about €900 per month often in a converted apartment. Rooms are for a studio apartment or one-bedroom flat. usually fairly simple, though most come with For longer stays, you’ll probably have to pay a private bathroom. bills plus a building maintenance charge. Hotels are rated from one to five stars. Most hotels in Rome’s historic centre tend to Seasons & Rates be three-star and up. As a rule, a three-star Rome doesn’t have a low season as such but room will come with a hairdryer, a minibar rates are at their lowest from November to (or fridge), a safe, air-con and wi-fi. Some may March (excluding Christmas and New Year) also have satellite TV. Note that Roman ho- and from mid-July through August. Expect tel rooms tend to be small, especially in the to pay top whack in spring (April to June) centro­ storico and , where hotels and autumn (September and October) and are often housed in centuries-old palazzi. over the main holiday periods (Christmas, New Year and Easter). Most midrange and B&Bs & Guesthouses top-end hotels accept credit cards. It’s always Alongside traditional B&Bs, Rome has many best to check in advance. boutique-style guesthouses offering chic ac- commodation at midrange to top-end prices. Accommodation Websites Breakfast in a Roman B&B usually con- ¨Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/ sists of bread rolls, croissants, yoghurt, ham rome/hotels) Consult a list of author-reviewed and cheese. accommodation options and book online. ¨060608 (www.060608.it/en/accoglienza/ Hostels dormire) Official di Roma site with Rome’s hostels cater to everyone from back- accommodation lists. Details are not always packers to budget-minded families. Many offer up to date. hotel-style rooms alongside traditional dorms. ¨Bed & Breakfast Association of Rome Some hostels don’t accept reservations for (www.b-b.rm.it) Lists B&Bs and short-term dorm beds, so it’s first come, first served. apartment rentals. ¨ (www.bbitalia.it) Religious Institutions Bed & Breakfast Italia Rome’s longest-established B&B network. Many of Rome’s religious institutions offer ¨ (www.romeasyoufeel.com) cheap(ish) rooms. These often impose strict Rome As You Feel curfews and are fairly short on frills. Book Apartment rentals, from cheap studio flats well ahead. to luxury apartments. 215 Lonely Planet’s Best for Location NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Albergo Abruzzi (p217) Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) Wake up to the Pantheon. Price Ranges Arty retreat in elegant sur- Casa di Santa Brigida These price ranges roundings. (p217) A convent overlooking are for a high-season

Piazza Farnese. Sleeping Babuino 181 (p219) Chic ­double room with private luxury on top shopping street. ­bathroom: Arco del Lauro (p221) Best for € under €110 Minimalist comfort in Trastevere Romance €110 to €200  €€

 .B&B Hotel Sant’Anselmo (p222) €€€ over €200 Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Escape to this beautiful Liberty- Stately style in a city-centre Breakfast is included style villa. mansion. ­unless otherwise stated. Hotel Locarno (p219) Star in your own romance at this Reservations Best by Budget art-deco gem. ¨¨Always try to book ahead, especially for the € major religious festivals. Arco del Lauro (p221) A Best B&Bs ¨¨Ask for a camera cool bolthole in happening ­matrimoniale for a room Trastevere. Maria-Rosa Guesthouse (p221) Your Trastevere home with a double bed; a Althea Inn (p222) Designer from home. camera doppia has twin comfort at budget prices. beds. La Piccola Maison (p218) Beehive (p220) Classy hostel Quiet comfort near Piazza Checking In & Out near Termini. Barberini. ¨¨When you check in you’ll need to present €€ Best Value for your passport or ID card. ¨ Palm Gallery Hotel (p222) A Money ¨Checkout is usually be- delightful villa hotel. tween 10am and noon. In Althea Inn (p222) A hidden hostels it’s around 9am. Residenza Maritti (p216) gem near . Welcoming hideaway near the ¨¨Some guesthouses and forums. Le Stanze di Orazio (p219) B&Bs require you to ar- Get your money’s worth at this range a time to check in. Daphne Inn (p218) Boutique Vatican B&B. hotel with superlative service. La Controra (p218) Quality hostel in upscale area. €€€ Babuino 181 (p219) Bask in understated luxury Villa Spalletti Trivelli (p221) Live like country-house nobility 216 Where to Stay

Neighbourhood For Against Ancient Rome Close to major sights such as Colosseum, Roman Not cheap and has few Forum and ; quiet at night. ­budget options; restaurants are touristy. Sleeping Centro Storico Atmospheric area with everything on your Most expensive part of town; doorstep – Pantheon, , restau- few budget options; can be rants, bars, shops. noisy.

ANCIENT ROME Tridente, Trevi Good for Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Upmarket area with prices to  & the Quirinale designer shopping; excellent midrange to top- match; subdued after dark. end options; good transport links. Monti, Esquilino Lots of budget accommodation around Stazione Some dodgy streets in & San Lorenzo Termini; top eating options in Monti and good ­Termini area, which is not nightlife in San Lorenzo; good transport links. Rome’s most characterful. San Giovanni Authentic atmosphere with good eating and Few options available; not & Testaccio drinking options; Aventino, a quiet, romantic many big sights. area; Testaccio, a top food and nightlife district. Trastevere & Gorgeous, atmospheric area; party vibe with Very noisy, particularly on Gianicolo hundreds of bars, cafes, and restaurants; some summer nights; expensive. interesting sights. , Near St Peter’s Basilica and ; Expensive near St Peter’s; Borgo & decent range of accommodation; some excel- not much nightlife; sells out lent shops and restaurants; on the metro. quickly for religious holidays. Villa Borghese Largely residential area good for the Auditorium Out of the centre; few budget & Northern and some top museums; generally quiet after choices. Rome dark.

leather bedsteads, hanging lamps, and the 4 Ancient Rome ­occasional art tome.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL oRESIDENZA MARITTI GUESTHOUSE €€ FORTY SEVEN €€€ Map p300 (%06 678 82 33; www.residenzamar- Map p300 (%06 678 78 16; www.fortysevenhotel. itti.com; Via Tor de’ Conti 17; s €50-120, d €80-170, com; Via Petroselli 47; r €170-300; aW; gVia tr €100-190; aW; mCavour) Boasting stun- Petroselli) Near the Bocca della Verità, the ning views over the forums, this gem has plain grey facade of this classy four-star rooms spread over several floors. Some are gives onto a bright modern interior, full of bright and modern, others are more cosy sunshine and sharply designed guest rooms. in feel, with antiques and family furniture. There’s also a rooftop restaurant and, in the There’s no breakfast but you can use a fully basement, a gym and Turkish bath. equipped kitchen. HOTEL FORUM HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ % NERVA BOUTIQUE HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ Map p300 ( 06 679 24 46; www.hotelforum. Map p300 (%06 678 18 35; www.hotelnerva. com; Via Tor de’ Conti 25-30; r €180-350; aW; com; Via Tor de’ Conti 3; s €70-180, d €90-300; mCavour) The stately Forum offers formal aW; mCavour) Fresh from a recent make­ elegance and inspiring views. From the over, this friendly hotel is tucked away be- rooftop restaurant you can survey a sea of hind the Imperial Forums. Its snug rooms ruins, while inside it’s all antiques, wood- display a contemporary look in shades panelling and dangling chandeliers. Rooms of cream, grey and black, with padded are small and classically attired. Parking is available for €40 per day. 217 aW; gCorso del Rinascimento) This small 4 Centro Storico hotel offers a range of handsome, modern rooms in a 15th-century palazzo near Pi- HOTEL PENSIONE BARRETT PENSION € azza Navona. They come in various shapes Map p304 (%06 686 84 81; www.pensionebar- and looks, but the most striking feature a rett.com; 47; s €115, d showy silver-and-grey design. Breakfast aW g

€125, tr €150; ; Largo di Torre Argentina) costs €10 extra. Sleeping This charming pension boasts a conveni- ent central location and an exuberant decor HOTEL TEATRO DI POMPEO HOTEL €€ that marries leafy pot plants with statues, Map p304 (%06 6830 0170; www.hotelteatro­ busts and vibrant stucco. Rooms are cosy dipompeo.it; Largo del Pallaro 8; s €90-165, d

€110-220; aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) and come with thoughtful extras like foot  CENTRO STORICO spas and fully stocked fridges. Tucked away behind Campo de’ Fiori, this charming hotel sits atop the 1st-century-BC ALBERGO DEL SOLE HOTEL € – the basement break- Map p304 (%06 687 94 46; www.solealbiscione. fast room is actually in the theatre’s ruins. it; Via del Biscione 76; s €70-100, d €100-145, tr Rooms are attractive with classic wooden €120-180; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) furniture, terracotta floor tiles, and, in This simple, no-frills place is supposedly some, sloping wood-beamed ceilings. the oldest hotel in Rome, dating to 1462. There’s nothing special about the function- DIMORA DEGLI DEI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ al rooms, but each floor has its own out- Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.pantheondimo- door terrace, and the location near Campo radeglidei.com; Via del Seminario 87; r €80-200; de’ Fiori is excellent. No breakfast. aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Location and discreet style are the selling points of this ALBERGO CESÀRI HISTORIC HOTEL €€ elegant bolthole near the Pantheon. On Map p304 (%06 674 97 01; www.albergocesari.it; the 1st floor of a centuries-old palazzo, it Via di Pietra 89/A; s €70-150, d €110-250; aW; has six high-ceilinged tastefully furnished gVia del Corso) This friendly three-star has rooms. Breakfast (€10) is optional. been welcoming guests since 1787 and both Stendhal and Mazzini are said to have slept CASA DI SANTA here. Modern visitors can expect tradition- BRIGIDA RELIGIOUS ACCOMMODATION €€ al rooms, a stunning rooftop terrace, and a Map p304 (%06 6889 2596; www.brigidine.org; wonderful central location. 96, entrance Via di Monserrato 54; s/d €120/200; aW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) HOTEL DUE TORRI HOTEL €€ Named after the Swedish St Brigid who died Map p304 (%06 6880 6956; www.hotelduetor- here in 1373, this tranquil convent enjoys a riroma.com; Vicolo del Leonetto 23; s €70-140, d superb location overlooking Piazza Farnese. €110-220, tr €140-240; aW; gVia di Monte Bri- Rooms are simple, clean and decidedly low- anzo) If the rooms at this refined hotel could tech – entertainment here is limited to a pi- talk, they’d have some stories to tell. The ano in the communal room, a small library Due Torri might now be a classically attired and views from the roof terrace. three-star with period furniture and 26 cosy rooms, but in centuries past it housed oHOTEL CAMPO a cardinals’ residence and a brothel. DE’ FIORI BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 687 48 86; www.hotelcampodefio- ARGENTINA RESIDENZA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ ri.com; Via del Biscione 6; r €90-400, apt €80-350; Map p304 (%06 6819 3267; www.argentinares- aiW; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) This rak- idenza.com; Via di Torre Argentina 47; r €120-200; ish four-star has got the lot – baroque bou- aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) Escape the doir decor, an enviable location, professional hustle and relax in the comfort of this quiet staff and a fabulous panoramic roof terrace. boutique hotel on Largo di Torre Argentina. The interior feels delightfully decadent with Its six decently sized rooms sport a low-key its boldly coloured walls, low wooden ceil- contemporary look with design touches ings, gilt mirrors and restored bric-a-brac. and elegant furnishings. Also available are 13 apartments.

HOTEL NAVONA HOTEL €€ ALBERGO ABRUZZI HOTEL €€€ Map p304 (%06 6821 1392; www.hotelnavona. Map p304 (%06 679 20 21; www.hotelabruzzi.it; com; Via dei Sediari 8; s €60-170, d €60-260; Piazza della Rotonda 69; d €120-340, tr €150-400, 218 q €180-450; aW; gLargo di Torre Argentina) As DAPHNE INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ locations go, the Abruzzi’s tops the charts, Map p308 (%06 8745 0086; www.daphne-rome. bang opposite the Pantheon. Its recently com; Via di San Basilio 55; s €115-180, d €130-240, refurbished rooms sport a smart look with ste €190-290, without bathroom s €70-130, d blown-up photos printed on white walls and €90-160; aW; mBarberini) Run by an Amer- dark wood flooring. They are small, though, ican-Italian couple, the Daphne has helpful

Sleeping and late-night noise might be a problem. English-speaking staff and chic, comforta- ble rooms. They come in various shapes and sizes, but the overall look is smart contem- 4 Tridente, Trevi porary. There’s a second branch, Daphne Trevi, at Via degli Avignonesi 20.

TRIDENTE, TREVI & THE QUIRINALE & the Quirinale

oLA CONTRORA HOSTEL € HOTEL SUISSE PENSION €€ (%06 9893 7366; Via Umbria 7; dm €20-40, d Map p308 (%06 678 36 49; www.hotelsuisse- €80-110; aiW; mBarberini, mRepubblica) rome.com; Via Gregoriana 54; s €80-100, d €135- Quality budget accommodation is thin on 170, tr €180-200; iW; mSpagna, mBarberini) the ground in the upmarket area north of An air of old-school elegance pervades at Piazza Repubblica, but this great little hos- this delightful family-run pension. Attrac- tel is a top choice. It has a friendly laid-back tive antique furniture and creaking, pol- vibe, cool staff, double rooms and bright, ished parquet floors set the tone for the 12 airy mixed dorms (for three and four peo- tasteful, modestly decorated rooms. ple), with parquet floors, air-con and pri- vate bathrooms. GREGORIANA HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 679 42 69; www.hotelgregoriana. a HOTEL PANDA PENSION € it; Via Gregoriana 18; s €120-168,d €150-288; ; Map p308 (%06 678 01 79; www.hotelpanda.it; Via mSpagna) This low-key, polished art-deco della Croce 35; s €65-90, d €85-130, tr €120-150, q hotel is fantastically set behind the Span- €160-190; aW; mSpagna) Near the Spanish ish Steps. Beds have beautiful, circular Steps, in an area where a bargain is a Bul- maple-wood headboards, snow-white linen gari watch bought at the sales, the Panda and lots of gleaming rosewood. Staff are flies the flag for budget accommodation. It’s ­friendly and unpretentious. a friendly place with high-ceilinged rooms and simple, tasteful decor. Air-con is free in MARGUTTA GLAMOUR summer, but €6 in other periods. STUDIOS APARTMENT €€ Map p308 (%333 7982702; www.marguttaglam- LA PICCOLA MAISON B&B €€ ourstudios.com; Via Margutta 54-55; apt €150- Map p308 (%06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison. 180; mSpagna) Four charming apartments com; Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-270; on one of Rome’s prettiest streets, which aW; mBarberini) The excellent Piccola Mai- has a village feel despite being in the thick son is housed in a 19th-century building in of Tridente. All are decorated with flair, a great location close to Piazza Barberini, and the two larger apartments, in former and has pleasingly plain, neutrally decorated artists’ studios, are spectacular, with dou- rooms and thoughtful staff. It’s a great deal. ble height ceilings; the smaller two are charming, with pretty outlooks.

HOTEL TAX HOTEL MOZART HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 3600 1915; www.hotelmozart. Everyone overnighting in Rome has to com; Via dei Greci 23b; r €140-200; aiW; pay a room-occupancy tax on top of mSpagna) The Mozart has classic, immacu- their regular bill. late rooms, decorated in dove greys, egg- ¨¨€3 per person per night in one- and shell blues, golden yellows and rosy pinks, two-star hotels with comfortable beds, gleaming linen and ¨¨€3.50 in B&Bs and room rentals polished wooden furniture; deluxe rooms ¨¨€4/6/7 in three-/four-/five-star have jacuzzis and small terraces. hotels. It also administers the Vivaldi Luxury Suites and several apartments nearby. Look The tax is applicable for a maximum out for special offers on the website, where of 10 consecutive nights. Prices in rooms can go for as little as €80. reviews do not include the tax. 219 HOTEL BAROCCO HOTEL €€ CROSSING CONDOTTI GUESTHOUSE €€€ Map p308 (%06 487 20 01; www.hotelbarocco. Map p308 (%06 6992 0633; www.crossingcon- com; Piazza Barberini 9; d €160-290; aiW; dotti.com; Via Mario de’ Fiori 28; r €240-470; mBarberini) Very central, this well-run, wel- aW; mSpagna) This is one of Rome’s breed coming 41-room hotel overlooking Piazza of upmarket guesthouses, where all the Barberini (the pricier rooms have views) has fittings, linen and comforts are top of the

a classic feel, with rooms featuring oil paint- range, and the pretty, though not large, Sleeping ings, spotless linen, gentle colour schemes rooms have lots of character and antique and fabric-covered walls. Breakfast is ample furnishings. There’s also a well-stocked and served in a wood-panelled room. kitchen with drinks and a Nespresso ma- chine. The more expensive rooms, recently HOTEL LOCARNO HOTEL €€ added, have walk-in showers and a kitchen- VATICAN CITY, BORGO & PRATI Map p308 (%06 361 08 41; www.hotellocarno. ette, and the top choice has a Turkish bath. com; Via della Penna 22; s €90-260, d €120-270; aiW; mFlaminio) With its ivy-clad exte- HOTEL DE RUSSIE HOTEL €€€ rior, stained-glass doors and rattling cage- Map p308 (%06 32 88 81; www.hotelderussie.it; lift, the Locarno is an art-deco classic – the Via del Babuino 9; d €550-850; ai; mFlaminio) kind of place Hercule Poirot might stay if he The historic de Russie is almost on Piazza were in town. Many rooms have silk wall- del Popolo, and has exquisite terraced gar- paper and period furniture, and are occa- dens. The decor is softly luxurious in many sionally in need of TLC, but full of charm. shades of grey, and the rooms offer state- There’s a roof garden, a restaurant and an of-the-art entertainment systems, massive atmospheric bar. -tiled bathrooms and all the luxu- ries. There’s a lovely courtyard bar. HOTEL MODIGLIANI HOTEL €€ Map p308 (%06 4281 5226; www.hotelmodigli- ani.com; Via della Purificazione 42; s €100-160, d 4 Vatican City, Borgo €100-270; aW; mBarberini) Run by an artis- tic couple, the Modigliani is all about atten- & Prati tion to detail and service. The 23 dove-grey HOTEL SAN PIETRINO HOTEL € rooms are spacious and light, and the best Map p312 (%06 370 01 32; www.sanpietrino. ones have views and balconies, either out- it; Via Bettolo 43; s €45-75, d €55-112; aiW; side or over the quiet courtyard garden. mOttaviano–San-Pietro) Within easy walk- ing distance of St Peter’s, family-run San oBABUINO 181 BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Pietrino is an excellent budget choice. Its Map p308 (%06 3229 5295; www.romeluxu- 11 cosy rooms are characterful and prettily rysuites.com/babuino; Via del Babuino 181; r decorated with terracotta-tiled floors and €240-715; aW; mFlaminio) A beautifully the occasional statue. No breakfast. renovated old palazzo, Babuino offers dis- creet luxury, with great attention to detail, COLORS HOTEL HOTEL € a sleek roof terrace and modern, chic rooms Map p312 (%06 687 40 30; www.colorshotel.com; with touches such as a Nespresso machine Via Boezio 31; s €30-90, d €45-122; aW; gVia and fluffy bathrobes. A new annexe across Cola di Rienzo) Popular with young travellers, the street has added more suites and rooms this welcoming hotel impresses with its that continue the theme of understated el- fresh, artful design and vibrantly coloured egance. The same company runs the simi- rooms. These come in various shapes and larly impressive Margutta 54 (Map p308; sizes, including some cheaper ones with %06 322 95 295; www.romeluxurysuites.com/ shared bathrooms and, from June to Au- margutta/default-en.html; Via Margutta 54; d gust, dorms for guests under 38. Breakfast from €250; mSpagna) and Mario de’ Fiori 37. on request costs €6.50.

CASA FABBRINI B&B €€€ LE STANZE DI ORAZIO B&B €€ Map p308 (%06 324 3706; www.casafabbrini. Map p312 (%06 3265 2474; www.lestanzediorazio. it; Vicolo delle Orsoline 13; r €280; mSpagna) A com; Via Orazio 3; r €85-135; aiW; mLepanto) beautifully styled boutique B&B that could This small boutique B&B is excellent value have sprung from the pages of Elle Deco- for money. It has five bright, playfully ration, with antique doors as bedheads, ­decorated rooms – think shimmering rain- coloured-glass lamps and painted furniture. bow wallpaper, lilac accents, and designer bathrooms – and a small breakfast area. 220 FABIO MASSIMO name only, this pearl offers small, hotel- DESIGN HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ standard rooms, each with its own ensuite Map p312 (%06 321 30 44; www.hotelfabiomas- bathroom, and decorated in tasteful low- simo.com; Viale Giulio Cesare 71; r €89-229; aW; key style – beamed ceilings, wooden floors, mOttaviano-San Pietro) Walkable from Ottavi- French windows, black-and-white framed ano metro station, this sleek design hotel is photos. There’s also an apartment, with

Sleeping convenient as well as stylish. From the 4th- kitchen, that sleeps up to four. No lift and floor reception and breakfast area, corri- no breakfast. dors lead off to nine rooms, each furnished in contemporary reds and slate greys, with WELROME HOTEL HOTEL € flower motifs and hanging lamps. Map p320 (%06 4782 4343; www.welrome.it;

;MONTI, ESQUILINO & SAN LORENZO Via Calatafimi 15-19; d/tr/q €110/148/187; aW  HOTEL BRAMANTE HISTORIC HOTEL €€ mTermini) A small, spotless hotel in a quiet Map p312 (%06 6880 6426; www.hotelbramante. backstreet not far from Termini. Owners com; Vicolo delle Palline 24-25; s €100-160, d Mary and Carlo take great pride in looking €140-240, tr €175-260, q €190-300; aW; gBor- after their guests and will enthusiastically go Sant’Angelo) Nestled under the Vatican­ advise you on where to eat, what to do and walls, the Bramante exudes country- where to avoid. Their seven simply deco- house charm with its cosy internal court- rated rooms are clean and comfortable. No yard, wood-beamed ceilings and antique breakfast but kettles and fridges are pro- ­furniture. It’s housed in the 16th-century vided, and there are plenty of nearby bars building where architect Domenico Fon- for a cornetto (croissant) and coffee. tana once lived. PAPA GERMANO HOTEL € oVILLA LAETITIA BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ Map p320 (%06 48 69 19; www.hotelpapa­ (%06 322 67 76; www.villalaetitia.com; Lungote- germano.it; Via Calatafimi 14a; d €50-110, with- vere delle Armi 22; r €200-280, ste €500; aW; out bathroom dm €15-35, s €30-65, d €40-85; gLungotevere delle Armi) Villa Laetitia is a aiW; mTermini) Easygoing and popular, stunning boutique hotel in a riverside art- Papa Germano is a budget stalwart. There nouveau villa. Its 20 rooms, each individu- are various sleeping options, ranging from ally designed by Anna Venturini Fendi of four-person dorms to private rooms with or the famous fashion house, marry modern without bathrooms. It has a family-run feel, design touches with vintage pieces and the decor is plain and fairly smart, and all rare finds, such as an original Picasso in rooms are scrupulously clean. the Garden Room. ALESSANDRO PALACE HOSTEL HOSTEL € Map p320 (%06 446 19 58; www.hostelsalessan- 4 dro.com; Via Vicenza 42; dm €19-35, d €70-110, Monti, Esquilino tr €85-120; aiW; mCastro Pretorio) This & San Lorenzo well-kept favourite offers spick-and-span, oBEEHIVE HOSTEL € terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as Map p320 (%06 4470 4553; www.the-beehive. well as dorms sleeping from four to eight, com; Via Marghera 8; dm €25-35, s €50-80, d all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has €90-100, without bathroom s €60-70, d €70-80, tr its own bathroom with hairdryer. There’s a €95-105; aW; mTermini) S More boutique basement bar, and it runs local tours. chic than backpacker dive, the Beehive HOTEL ARTORIUS HOTEL €€ is Rome’s best hostel; book well ahead. Map p320 (%06 482 11 96; www.hotelartori- There’s a spotless, eight-person mixed dorm usrome.com; Via del Boschetto 13; d €86-140; or six private double rooms, some with air- aiW; mCavour) con. Original artworks and funky modular The art-deco lobby looks furniture add colour, and there’s a cafe. promising, and the rest delivers too in this Some off-site rooms, sharing communal 10-room Monti hotel with a family-run feel. bathrooms and kitchen, are another bar- Rooms are simple and plain – not large, but gain (single €40 to €50, double €60 to €80). perfectly comfortable – and one (room 109) has a terrace. Book well ahead. BLUE HOSTEL HOSTEL € DUCA D’ALBA HOTEL €€ Map p320 (%340 925 85 03; www.bluehostel.it; Map p320 (%06 48 44 71; www.hotelducadalba. Via Carlo Alberto 13, 3rd fl; d €60-150, apt €100- com; Via Leonina 14; r €115-380; aW; mCavour) 180; aW; mVittorio Emanuele) A hostel in 221 This appealing four-star hotel in the Monti aged 12 or younger are welcome) is housed district has small but charming rooms: in a lovely 16th-century convent, close to most have fabric-covered or handpainted the river. It is run by the Casa Internazi- walls, wood-beamed ceilings and big flat- onale delle Donne (International ­Women’s screen TVs. House) and offers safe, well-priced ­accommodation in Trastevere. Reception RESIDENZA CELLINI GUESTHOUSE €€

is open from 7am to 3am. The 13 simple Sleeping Map p320 (%06 4782 5204; www.residenza- rooms sleep two, four, five or eight, and cellini.it; Via Modena 5; s €100-135, d €115-150; some have views onto the internal ­garden. aiW; mRepubblica) With grown-up fur- It’s wheelchair accessible.­ nishings featuring potted palms, polished wood, pale-yellow walls, oil paintings and oARCO DEL LAURO B&B €€ & TRASTEVERE GIANICOLO a hint of chintz, this charming, family-run Map p316 (%346 2443212, 9am-2pm 06 9784 place on a quiet road parallel to Via Nazion- 0350; www.arcodellauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei ale offers spacious, elegant rooms, all with 27; s €72-132, d €132-145; aW; gViale di Traste- satellite TV and jacuzzi or hydro-massage vere, jViale di Trastevere) This fab six-room shower. There’s a sunny flower-surrounded B&B occupies a centuries-old palazzo on a terrace for summer breakfasts. narrow cobbled street. Its gleaming white rooms combine rustic charm with a mod- oVILLA SPALLETTI TRIVELLI HOTEL €€€ ern look and comfortable beds. The owners Map p320 (%06 4890 7934; www.villaspalletti.it; are welcoming and always ready to help. Via Piacenza 4; r €450-620; aiW; mSpagna) With 12 rooms in a glorious mansion in RELAIS LE CLARISSE HOTEL €€ central Rome, Villa Spalletti Trivelli was Map p316 (%06 5833 4437; www.leclarisse.com; built by Gabriella Rasponi, widow of Italian Via Cardinale Merry del Val 20; r €80-230; aW; senator Count Venceslao Spalletti Triveli gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) Set and the niece of Carolina Bonaparte (Na- hacienda-style around a pretty internal poleon’s sister). It’s a soujourn in a stately courtyard with an olive tree and a smat- home: rooms are soberly and elegantly tering of cast-iron tables, this is a delight- decorated, and the sitting rooms are hung ful oasis in Trastevere’s bustling core. In with 16th-century tapestries or lined with contrast to the urban mayhem outside, the antique books. There’s a basement spa. hotel is a picture of farmhouse charm with rooms, each named after a plant, decorated in rustic style with wrought-iron bedsteads 4 Trastevere & Gianicolo and wood-beamed ceilings.

MARIA-ROSA GUESTHOUSE B&B € RESIDENZA ARCO DE’ TOLOMEI HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%338 7700067; www.maria-rosa. Map p316 (%06 5832 0819; www.bbarcodeito- it; Via dei Vascellari 55; s €45-65, d €65-80, tr lomei.com; Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27; d €155-205; €80-120; iW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di aW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Traste- Trastevere) This is a delightful B&B on the vere) This gorgeous place is decorated with 3rd floor of a Trastevere townhouse. It’s a ­polished antiques and rich contrasting simple affair with two guestrooms sharing chintzes that make the interiors feel like a a single bathroom and a small living room, country cottage. It’s a lovely place to stay, but the homey decor, pot plants and books and the owners are friendly and helpful. create a lovely, warm atmosphere. The own- er, Sylvie, also has a further three rooms BUONANOTTE GARIBALDI GUESTHOUSE €€ on the floor above at La Casa di Kaia (Map Map p316 (%06 5833 0733; www.buonanottegar- p316; %338 7700067; www.kaia-trastevere.it; ibaldi.com; Via Garibaldi 83; r €210-280, closed 7 Via dei Vascellari 55; with shared bathroom s €45- Jan‒7 Mar; aiW; gPiazza Sonnino, jPiazza 55, d €65-75; W; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Sonnino) With only three rooms, this is a ha- Trastevere). There’s no lift. ven: an upmarket B&B in a divinely pretty inner-city villa, set around a courtyard. The LA FORESTERIA ORSA MAGGIORE HOSTEL € rooms are beautifully decorated and there Map p316 (%06 689 37 53; www.casainternazi- are works of art and sculpture all over the onaledelledonne.org; 2nd fl, Via San Francesco di place – this is artist Luisa Longo’s house. Sales 1a; dm €26, s/d €75/110, without bathroom Pick of the rooms is Blue, upstairs, which €52/72; iW; gPiazza Trilussa) This lesbian-­ opens onto a greenery-shaded terrace. friendly, women-only guesthouse (boys 222 HOTEL SANTA MARIA HOTEL €€ HOTEL LANCELOT HOTEL €€ Map p316 (%06 589 46 26; www.hotelsantamaria. Map p314 (%06 7045 0615; www.lancelothotel. info; Vicolo del Piede 2; s €90-225, d €100-290, tr com; Via Capo d’Africa 47; s €100-128, d €130- €130-330 ; aiW; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di 196; aW; gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano) A Trastevere) Walk along the ivy-lined approach great location near the Colosseum, striking and you’ll enter a tranquil haven. Surround- views, and helpful English-speaking staff ing a spacious modern cloister (a former

Sleeping – the family-run Lancelot scores across convent site), shaded by orange trees, rooms the board. The lobby and communal areas are cool and comfortable, decorated in sunny gleam with marble and crystal while the colours, and with terracotta floors. There are spacious rooms exhibit a more classic style. some larger family rooms. The staff is pro-

SAN GIOVANNI & TESTACCIO GIOVANNI SAN fessional, and there’s access for people with HOTEL ROMANCE HOTEL €€ a disability. Nearby Residenza Santa Maria Map p314 (%06 8929 5106; www.hotelromance. (Map p316; %06 5833 5103; www.residenzasan- it; Via Marco Aurelio 37a; s €70-140, d €70-200; tamaria.com; Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 20; s €90- aW; mColosseo) A warm welcome awaits 190, d €100-230; iW) is its smaller sister. at this family-run three-star near the Colos- seum. It has quiet, comfy rooms decorated VILLA DELLA FONTE B&B €€ in traditional Roman style and views over a Map p316 (%06 580 37 97; www.villafonte.com; lush garden next door. Via della Fonte dell’Olio 8; r €80-230; aW; gViale j di Trastevere, Viale di Trastevere) A terracotta- oHOTEL SANT’ANSELMO HOTEL €€€ hued, ivy-shrouded gem, Villa della Fonte is Map p314 (%06 57 00 57; www.aventinohotels. a romantic choice, occupying a 17th-century com; Piazza Sant’Anselmo 2; s €90-265, d €99- building in a street off Piazza Santa Maria 290; aW; gVia Marmorata) A ravishing ro-

in Trastevere. It has five rooms, all of which mantic hideaway in the elegant Aventino  are simply decorated but have pretty out- district. Its rooms are not the biggest but looks, good bathrooms and comfortable they are stylish, juxtaposing four-poster beds. The sunny garden terrace is a plus. beds, Liberty-style furniture and marble bathrooms with modern touches. oDONNA CAMILLA SAVELLI HOTEL €€€ Map p316 (%06 58 88 61; www.hoteldonnacamilla- savelli.com; Via Garibaldi 27; d €165-250; aiW; 4 gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere) It’s sel- Villa Borghese & dom you have such an exquisite opportunity Northern Rome as to stay in a converted convent designed oPALM GALLERY HOTEL HOTEL €€ by Borromini. It’s been beautifully updated; Map p324 (%06 6478 1859; www.palmgalleryho- muted colours complement the serene con- tel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d; s €100-120, d €100-210; cave and convex curves of the architecture, aW; gVia Nomentana, gViale Regina Margher- and service is excellent. The pricier of the 78 ita) Housed in an early-20th-century villa, rooms overlook the cloister garden or have this gorgeous hotel sports an eclectic look views of Rome, and are decorated with an- that effortlessly blends African and Middle tiques – it’s worth forking out that bit extra. Eastern art with original art-deco furni- ture, exposed brickwork and hand-painted tiles. Rooms are individually decorated, 4 San Giovanni with the best offering views over the wiste- & Testaccio ria and thick greenery in the surrounding streets. oALTHEA INN B&B € Map p314 (%339 4353717, 06 9893 2666; www. altheainn.com; Via dei Conciatori 9; d €70-125; mPiramide) In a workaday apartment block, 4 Southern Rome this friendly B&B offers superb value for HOTEL ABITART HOTEL €€ money and easy access to Testaccio’s bars, Map p326 (%06 454 31 91; www.abitarthotel. clubs and restaurants. Its spacious, light- com; Via Matteucci 12; d €130-150; mPiramide, filled rooms sport a modish look with white dOstiense) Located in the gritty, trendy Os- walls and tasteful modern furniture. Each tiense area, the Abitart is decorated with also has a small terrace. a pop-arty feel, and is close to some good restaurants. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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