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Tridente, Trevi and the Quirinale

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Tridente, Trevi and the Quirinale PDF Rome Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale (PDF Chapter) Edition 9th Edition, Jan 2016 Pages 31 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Page Range 98–119, 214–222 • Neighbourhood Top • Sleeping Five Useful Links • Local Life Want more guides? • Getting There & Head to our shop Away Trouble with your PDF? • Sights Trouble shoot here • Eating Need more help? • Drinking & Nightlife Head to our FAQs • Entertainment Stay in touch • Shopping Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 98 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale PIAZZA DEL POPOLO | VIA DEL CORSO | PIAZZA DI SPAGNA | TREVI FOUNTAIN | THE QUIRINALE | PIAZZA BARBERINI | VIA VENETO Neighbourhood Top Five 1 People-watching, 2 Gazing at the Cara- 4 Revelling in the archi- photo-snapping and day- vaggio masterpieces in tectural treasures, glut of dreaming on the Spanish the artistic treasure trove masterpieces, and breath- Steps (p100), with a view Chiesa di Santa Maria del taking Cortona ceiling of down the glittering back- Popolo (p101). Palazzo Barberini (p110). bone of the Tridente dis- 3 Taking a tour of the 5 Visiting the poignant trict, designer-clad Via dei Villa Medici (p106), with Keats–Shelley House Condotti. its formal gardens and (p104), where the young astounding Rome views, Keats breathed his last in and stopping off in its cafe (then) humble rooms over- afterwards. looking the Spanish Steps. Lg 00 l 00 t 00 de M FLAMINO Viale o 00 i Tort 00 c ro 00 0500 m helangel isa Mu 00 e# 00.25miles a Lu Vi oia VILLA Sav00002# 0 di 00000 0 BORGHESE 0000Piazza de0l 0 a o d'Italia P 0000000 0 s o 0000000 ian or Vi a c 0000Po00polo0 Galoppatoio n C V s i a Piazza 00 P i s ia a L V della d S u i Vi alar c Libertà L R TRIDENTE r g a e ip i z t d gn et SALLUSTIANO ia i d el o # e t 3 T Ba C i a M i a Boncompa a b bu CAMPO Vi e r e o r a ino l MARZIO l R i visi n BORGO i 00000 v e i pett 00000 a Ludo r e i 00000 Vi b r V R 00000 1# m i e 00Piazza0 a 00000 t 000 di 00000 t 00Cavour0 de 00005#0 Vi e a S 000 00000 a l 00000 X Vi S i Co 00000 X t 00000 is ia a o 00000 tin ini V r o in rs a 000 er 000 P i nt rb t z e o 000 a 000 Lg r lem 000 ia B 000 a l C 000V 000 M de COLONNA 000 000 gt Via e 4# Pi0000azza della L iton 0000 el Tr Re0000pubblica Via d TREVI 0000 Za V0000 Vi 0000 ia na Giardino del e a T 00 al r G 00 Quirinale in e o d #æ ir r 00 al i e 00 n ll Qu on o i Trevi Ri Fountain 00000 na C 00000 a del 00000Vi ia Nazi or Vi V scim 00000 s 00000 a 000 PARIONE o de 00000 Milano ES00000000QU0ILINO C en Villa Colonna 000000000 o l rs t 00000000Piaz0za o o Vit 0000 PIGNA 000000 tori0000 dell'E000000squilino 0000o Em 00000 000000 0000an 0000c0ito MONTI r 000000 0000uel 0000ebis 0 u 000000 0000 e II 0000l Pl 0 erna o 000000 a de0000000000 anisp v 000000 Vi 00000000Piaz00za Via P a 00000000000Venezi00a C 00000000000 0 ia 0 00000000000 0 V For more detail of this area see Map p308 A 99 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Tridente, Trevi & the Top Tip Quirinale Local churches are usually Tridente is Rome’s most glamorous district, full of de- locked up for two to three signer boutiques, fashionable bars and swish hotels. hours over lunch, so if you However, it’s not just about shopping, dining and drink- want to visit the interiors, ing. The area also contains the splendid vast neoclassical time your visit for the showpiece, Piazza del Popolo; the wonderfully frivolous morning or late afternoon. Spanish Steps; the grandiose Villa Medici; the Museo dell’Ara Pacis, a controversial modern museum designed by US architect Richard Meier; artists’ street Via Mar- 5 Best Places gutta, and several masterpiece-packed churches. To see to Eat all the sights here, factoring in some window shopping, ¨ Enoteca Regionale would take around half a day to a day, and it’s all eas- Palatium (p114) ily walkable – a short walk from the centro storico or ¨ Piazza Venezia – and easily accessible from the Spagna Imàgo (p114) ¨ and Flaminio metro stations. Fatamorgana (p111) TRIDEN Alongside Tridente, the Roman hill of Quirinale is ¨ Colline Emiliane (p115) home to the extraordinary Trevi Fountain and the im- ¨ Babette (p112) posing presidential Palazzo del Quirinale, as well as T For reviews, see p110. A & E, TREVI important churches by the twin masters of Roman ba- roque, Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini. Other artistic hotspots in the area include the lavish Gal- Best Places leria Colonna and the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica: 6 Palazzo Barberini, a fabulous gallery containing works to Drink ¨ T by a who’s who of Renaissance and baroque artists – to Stravinskij Bar – Hotel de QUIRINALEHE see all this at leisure you’ll need several days. The Trevi Russie (p116) and Quirinale’s principal gateway is the Barberini metro ¨ Il Palazzetto (p114) stop. Busy during the day, both Tridente and the Quiri- ¨ Buccone (p111) nale are sleepy after dark. For reviews, see p116.A Local Life 1 Best ¨Ambling Imagine yourself as part of Roman Holiday Churches along the laid-back, cobbled and ivy-draped Via ¨ Chiesa di Santa Maria del Margutta, and enjoy the upscale neighbourhood feel of Popolo (p101) this distinctive district. ¨ Chiesa di Sant’Andrea al ¨ Shopping Commission yourself a handmade bag or a Quirinale (p107) marble motto from one of the area’s artisanal shops. ¨ Chiesa di San Carlo alle ¨ Coffee Do as the locals do and grab a caffeine hit, Quattro Fontane (p107) propping up the bar at one of the district’s iconic cafes, ¨ such as Rosati (p116) or Caffè Greco (p116). Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria (p106) For reviews, see p103.A Getting There & Away ¨Metro The Trevi and Quirinale areas are closest to Barberini metro stop, while Spagna and Flaminio stations are perfectly placed for Tridente. All three stops are on line A. ¨Bus Numerous buses run down to Piazza Barberini or along Via Veneto, and many stop at the southern end of Via del Corso and on Via del Tritone, ideal for a foray into Tridente. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA & THE SPANISH STEPS MICHAEL ZEGERS / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / ZEGERS MICHAEL The Spanish Steps and Tridente have been a magnet DON’T MISS… for foreigners since the 1800s. Charles Dickens wrote, ‘these steps are the great place of resort for ¨ The view from the the artists’ “models”… The first time I went up there, top of the Spanish I could not conceive why the faces seemed familiar to Steps me… I soon found that we had made acquaintance…on ¨ Barcaccia the walls of various Exhibition Galleries.’ The Piazza di Spagna was named after the Spanish Em- bassy to the Holy See, although the staircase, designed by PRACTICALITIES the Italian Francesco de Sanctis and built in 1725 with a ¨ Map p308 legacy from the French, leads to the French Chiesa della ¨ mSpagna Trinità dei Monti. In the late 1700s the area was much loved by English visitors on the Grand Tour and was known to locals as er ghetto de l’inglesi (the English ghetto). Keats lived for a short time in some rooms overlooking the Spanish Steps, and died here of tuberculosis at the age of 25. His landlady’s apartment is now a museum devoted to the Romantics, especially Keats. At the foot of the steps, the fountain of a sinking boat, the Barcaccia (1627), is believed to be by Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo. It’s fed from the ancient Roman Acqua Vergine aqueduct, as are the fountains in Piazza del Popolo and the Trevi Fountain. Here there’s not much pressure, so it’s sunken as a clever piece of engineering. Bees and suns decorate the structure, symbols of the commissioning Barberini family. It was damaged in 2015 by Dutch football fans, and the Dutch subsequently offered to repair the damage. Opposite, Via dei Condotti is Rome’s most exclusive shopping street, glitter- ing with big-name designers such as Gucci, Bulgari and Prada. To the southeast of the piazza, adjacent Piazza Mignanelli is dominated by the Colonna dell’Immacolata, built in 1857 to celebrate Pope Pius IX’s declaration of the Immaculate Conception. 101 CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO This is one of Rome’s earliest and richest Renaissance DON’T MISS… churches, parts of which were designed by Bramante and Bernini. The lavish chapels, decorated by ¨ Caravaggio’s paint- Caravaggio, Bernini, Raphael, Pinturicchio and others, ings, Cerasi Chapel were commissioned by local noble families. ¨ Bernini’s work in the Raphael-designed The Church Chigi Chapel The first chapel was built here in 1099, over the tombs of ¨ Pinturicchio’s the Domiti family, to exorcise the ghost of Nero, who was frescoes secretly buried on this spot and whose malicious spirit was thought to haunt the area.
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