Citi Prestige®

The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES luxecityguides.com

THERE ARE FEW CITIES The sheer scale and breathtaking The Romans love life, and who are we ON THE PLANET MORE preservation of many of the city’s to deny them? Embrace Rome with open STEEPED IN HISTORY, greatest monuments is a joy to behold. arms, and go as often as you can – INTRIGUE, POLITICS, And then there is the cooking, the there’s simply nowhere like it. CULTURE, ROMANCE, AND staggering art, the fashion, la bella JAW-DROPPING ANCIENT figura and, of course, la dolce vita. ARCHITECTURE THAN ROME.

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Blah blah

• Rome is super-saturated with visitors • Spring: Settimana della Cultura/Culture • All indoor restaurants and bars are on all major holidays, particularly Week – all state museums are free non-smoking religious ones; the best times to visit beniculturali.it are Nov and Jan-Feb; August broils, Sep-Nov: Roma Europa Art Festival – the population flees en masse and the music, dance and theatre • Bars are legally required to let city all but shuts, although at least the romaeuropa.net non-patrons use loos which is terribly streets are relatively crowd free – your Oct/Nov: Festival Internazionale del useful if you’re caught short call Film di Roma

romacinemafest.it

• Coffee etiquette: caffè/espresso is a • Fiumicino to Centro set fare by taxi: single shot, doppio is a double shot, €40 / 40 mins • Shops generally open from 10am- Americano is a long black 7.30pm, although smaller ones take an

afternoon pause from 1-4pm, and most close all day Sunday and on Monday • Ciampino to Centro set fare by taxi: mornings too • Drinking cappuccino after midday €30 / 35 mins is considered a tad declassé

• Restaurants and services tend to close • Taxi drivers are notorious for on Sunday as well, so use this day for • The international country code is +39, adding extras, so watch the meter, museums and activities all local calls are prefixed with 06, Peter. In town, the meter’s red Italian cell phones all start with 3; for dot should be next to the #1; if not, general emergencies dial 113 he’s diddling you... • Always book well ahead for the city’s best tables and be sure to reconfirm as reservations often get ‘lost’ • Check your change, Romans rarely tip their drivers

• Service is always included, but add up to 10% anyway • Stillies + cobbled streets don’t mix, so break out the flats

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LUXE INSIDER

Kika Repetto PERSONAL SHOPPER

Style consultant Kika Repetto is the city’s go-to personal shopper offering full- or half-day bespoke itineraries tailored to match each client’s budget and taste. Commuting between Rome, São Paulo, Paris and London she keeps a firm finger on the pulse of all the latest trends and forecasts, openings, closings and city secrets.

Call +39 328 696 4886 / by appointment only

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LUXE INSIDER Kika Repetto

WHAT’S THE BEST TIME OF WHERE CAN YOU BE FOUND WHERE WOULD YOU GO FOR YEAR TO VISIT ROME? ARE ON A SATURDAY OR SUNDAY A COCKTAIL AND WHAT THERE ANY SPECIAL EVENTS MORNING? WOULD YOU ORDER? TO LOOK OUT FOR? In spring or on a sunny winter day, for Salotto 42 (see LUXE Loves) in the Piazza May: flowers everywhere, walls covered lunch at Caffé Ciampini at Piazza Trinita di Pietra. Very good drinks in a cool in jasmine, the entire town is jasmine- dei Monti by the , or modern atmosphere in front of Rome’s scented! Visit the Roseto Comunale Ciampini in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina most striking columns, just steps away (open from April to October – an amazing for cappuccino and cornetti or a light from the Pantheon. Good music, and a rose garden with 1,100 different varieties lunch. young and hip Roman crowd that give a of rose). sense of where the city’s scene is at right caffeciampini.com now! I love their Bloody Mary with a twist ciampini.com of lemon.

salotto42.it WHAT’S THE ONE THING EVERY VISITOR TO ROME MUST DO AND WHY? WHAT’S THE BEST LOCAL DELICACY IN ROME AND View Rome from the top! From the WHERE IS IT WORTH TRYING? Passeggiata del Gianicolo by the statue of Garibaldi, from the terrace of Musei The burrata and dried pachino tomatoes Capitolini, or Hotel Eden’s La Terrazza with nut bread is to die for at Roscioli, dell’Eden (fantastic for drinks), from the one of the best Italian gourmet shops Pincio Villa Borghese, or from the terrace with a small restaurant in the back. Make of Castel Sant’Angelo – all offer sublime sure you book! views of the city around sunset. salumeriaroscioli.com museicapitolini.org laterrazzadelleden.com castelsantangelo.com

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LUXE Loves

J.K. PLACE ROMA BABUINO 181 PORTRAIT SUITES Hotel Hotel Hotel

Perfectly located sister to the ultra- Fabulously situated, molto elegante This 14-suite ‘residence’ oozes stylish J.K. Place in Florence and the contemporary chambers wrapped in a Ferragamo’s attention to detail and wonderfully glamorous J.K. Capri, this C.18th palazzo, with comp. WiFi, snappy style, with attentive staff, a calm palette 30-room and suite retreat from the hurly- service and quieter courtyard-facing of limed woods and dove grey, plus burly features top-to-toe contemporary rooms for light sleepers, and all but a a chic rooftop deck that’s perfect for design splendor from interior guru Gucci loafer’s toss from Piazza Popolo, sunset views of the city. All rooms have Michele Bonan. Perfect for a Hotel de Russie and the lovely shopping kitchenettes, while #51 has a private sophisticated tryst! of Via Margutta and Via Condotti. Bliss. terrace and #52 is a super-doop duplex.

Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 / Corso Via del Babuino, 181 / Popolo Via Bocca di Leone, 23 / Spagna +39 6 982 634 +39 6 3229 5295 +39 6 6938 0742

jkroma.com romeluxurysuites.com lungarnocollection.com

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LUXE Loves

PIERLUIGI SANTA LUCIA LA TAVERNA DEI FORI Dining Dining IMPERIALI Dining Hello, gorgeous! The stylista set get their In late spring and all through summer fish fix at this delightful Campo dé Fiori can there be anything lovelier than dining Packed to the rafters and always popular, classic, with lovely street-side eating area alfresco at night on the little triangular, the no-nonsense, big-flavor cooking and and smashing cocktails at the itsy-bitsy tree-lined terrazza of Santa Lucia? The cheerful, swift service keep diners coming bar. Lunch is fun, but go at night for freshest of ingredients are paraded for back for more. If you like gingham on your added romance and several Manhattans your delectation, the waiters are beyond table, and classic dishes like carbonara – ask for a visit and tasting in the timber- friendly, and the location means it’s or meat loaf on your plate, you’ll be in lined, vaulted wine cellar. literally steps from the Raphael Hotel’s heaven. glorious little rooftop bar where you will Piazza dé Ricci, 144 / Campo no doubt wish to sit pre- and post-meal. Via della Madonna dei Monti, 9 / Monti +39 6 686 1302 / closed Mon Cin cin! +39 6 679 8643 / closed Tue

pierluigi.it Largo Febo, 12 / Navona latavernadeiforiimperiali.com +39 6 6880 2427 / closed Jan

santaluciaristorante.it AL MORO SALOTTO 42 Dining Bar

Fellini was a fan, and Valentino still is. IL GELATO DI SAN CRISPINO Rome’s fashionistas love the relaxed, but Head to this charming time warp for Dining chic vibe of this book-lined salon with polished woods, nostalgic photographs its great cocktails, sounds and plush and traditional recipes served up with There’s ice-cream, and then there’s San places to perch. Tucked in the back old-fashioned finesse. Try the house Crispino gelati. This traditional parlor streets behind the Pantheon and open specialty, Spaghetti Al Moro (a version of delivers divine homemade honey, throughout the day, it’s a great stop-off carbonara) and don’t worry, Franco the meringue, ginger and fig amongst many, for a coffee too. grumpy owner is grumpy with everyone, many others, and while you have to run not just you! the gauntlet of the Trevi milling masses to Piazza di Pietra, 42 / Pantheon get to it, it sure is worth it when you do. +39 6 678 5804 / 10am-2am daily Vicolo delle Bollette, 13 / Trevi Dreamy and creamy! +39 6 678 3495 / closed Sun & Aug salotto42.it Via della Panetteria, 42 / Trevi ristorantealmororoma.eu +39 6 679 3924 / closed Tue & mid Jan- mid Feb / + branches

ilgelatodisancrispino.it

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LUXE Loves

IL GOCCETTO DOM BEPPE E SUOI FORMAGGI Bar Bar Shopping

As you amble down Via dei Banchi Slip past the doors into this C.17th Owner Beppe’s Piedmont-made cheese Vecchi at lunchtime, but more especially aristocratic palace turned moody and butter will tantalise tastebuds and in the evening, you’ll see patrons spilling boutique bijou, and slink into the damage waistlines in equal measure, out onto the street at this greatly loved seductive drinking den where exposed while a cornucopia of French delicacies and mellow institution that specializes brick, lush velvet, and dim chandeliers and wine make both ideal picnic baskets in small labels from Sicily to Venice. set the scene. In the summer the rustic and stellar souvenirs. Wine tastings Fun and friendly. terrace is prime for alfresco canoodles. available too.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 DOM Hotel Via di Santa Maria del Pianto, 9a / Ghetto Campo di Fiori Via Giulia, 131 / Campo di Fiori +39 6 6819 2210 / daily +39 6 686 4268 / closed Sun & Mon AM +39 6 683 2144 beppeeisuoiformaggi.it ilgoccetto.com domhotelroma.com

THE SCAVI TOUR Activities COQUIS Activities Activities Not for the faint-hearted, nor those suffering from claustrophobia, this Dazzle future dinner party guests with Not only is the villa pretty, but the unique tour is severely restricted in Italian-honed skills, from baking focaccia superb, perfectly-sized museum inside numbers, highly atmospheric and takes and tortas to filleting and pickling fish, it contains gorgeous works by Titian, you into the bowels of St. Peter’s Basilica by taking up a one-day course at this Raphael, Caravaggio and Rubens, as to visit the original Pagan necropolis bilingual cooking school. The stellar well as staggering Bernini and Canova underneath it and purported last resting lineup of chef instructors includes marble masterpieces. What’s more, place of St. Peter himself. two-Michelin-starred Claudio Sadler tickets are limited and timed, so there of Sadler in Milan and Giulio Terrinoni is no push or shove and no over-crowding. Call +39 6 6987 3017 / only bookable in of Acquolina in Rome, as well as master A joy! advance via email [email protected] to the pizzaiolo Pino Arletto. Perfetto! Vatican Excavations Office Villa Borghese 1/F / , 575 / Tor di Quinto Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 / Pinciano vatican.va +39 6 3322 0082 +39 6 328 10 / 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun tickets must be booked in advance coquis.it galleriaborghese.it

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LUXE Loathes

TAXI DRIVERS WAITERS OPENING TIMES

Notorious for adding extras, watch out You could expire and be buried before What do Roman shopkeepers do on for the red dot scam (see Blah blah) being served Sunday, Monday morning, and daily between 1-4pm?

GRAFFITI ‘CENTURIONS’ AT THE COLISEUM Everywhere, particularly Trastevere – such a shame These photo ops are photo flops

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Drab vs. Fab

VATICAN VISIT GETTING AROUND COOL OFF

Nothing can be more drab than standing Rome’s myriad of tiny streets can mean Being all hot and bothered with nowhere in line outside the Vatican Museums getting stuck in noisy traffic on baking to cool off and relax is not ideal, but with literally thousands of other grumpy summer days is a strong possibility, rather than throw yourself in the Trevi people, so to cut your queue time to only consider instead zipping around town on Fountain, all you have to do is buy lunch minutes, book a personal guided tour with your very own scooter or bicycle from at the Parco dei Principi Hotel and Context Travel. Ta-dah! Bici e Baci. you can treat yourself to an afternoon poolside at the hotel’s lovely oasis, one of contexttravel.com bicibaci.com the very few swimming pools in the city.

parcodeiprincipi.com

PICNIC WINE APPRECIATION

Don’t waste time racing around If you enjoy drinking delicious Italian wine town trying to put together hamper with every meal, you’ll enjoy it all the ingredients, pop into GiNa and pick up more once you understand its nuances. a picnic ‘cestino’ packed with summery Arrange a fab wine tasting master class at goodies. Vino Roma and amaze your friends back home with your newfound knowledge. ginaroma.com vinoroma.com

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LUXE ITINERARY Romance

Start your day viewing the charming the sublime Galleria Borghese (see LUXE steps to go outside the hotel to find the private family collection housed at the Loves), home to some to the loveliest gracefully romantic, tree-lined terrazza Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. This vast palazzo treasures in the city, and with limited of Santa Lucia (see LUXE Loves) where is still home to the Pamphilj family, numbers allowed in at any one time, there a high likelihood of cupidity is always and is a fascinating insight into the art are none of the heaving crowds of the in the air. Saunter homewards now, but and daily life of the house. The audio Vatican Museum. Well, you’ve certainly stop for a nightcap if you can at Bar tour is narrated in English by Prince earned a pamper, and the glorious, della Pace – the streetside tables of this Jonathan himself. Afterwards head to limpid Wellness Zone spa at the Hotel de eternal favorite line one of the city’s most Caffè Ciampini for a well-earned coffee, Russie is the perfect place to relax in the picturesque backstreets, drenched in or better yet, a large portion of their company of the city’s divas and divos who atmosphere and always lively. scandalously good pistachio ice-cream, can’t get enough of the myriad massage before zipping to the Spanish Steps and treatments imported from around popping into GiNa to pick up a picnic (see the world. As the clock hits 5pm your Drab vs. Fab). Now, off with you to the thoughts should be turning to Campari sylvan grounds of the Villa Borghese, the time atop the roof garden of the Raphael perfect park to eat your lunch alfresco. Hotel for the inevitably lovely sunset Having booked your tickets in advance over the ravishing city skyline. Cocktails you will now be perfectly placed to here come with a handsome selection of saunter into your timed opening slot at tidbits, but don’t fill up, you’ve only a few

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LUXE ITINERARY Style

Well, you’ve certainly got a stylish beautiful Ara Pacis, or Altar of Peace. buildings, and the lounge bar of I day ahead, but don’t skimp on the It sits rather conveniently in the same Sofa di Via Giulia atop the St. George most important meal of the day; square as stylish, all-day flop-spot Hotel perfectly pairs sophisticated instead make a beeline to chic café Gusto, equally great for coffee, lunch cocktails with stunning views. Hungry? La Buvette, offering delicious health- or supper, and rightly famous for its If you’re after a night of chic, urbane conscious and low-cal breakfasts jazzy Sunday brunch. Drop those and elegant dining, make sleekster mostly unheard of in Roma. Suitably heavy shopping bags back at the Oliver Glowig your choice, and sit replete, can there be any greater joy hotel and off with you velocemente on the poolside garden terrace. Or, if than shopping the nearby streets to the fabulous MAXXI. Zaha Hadid’s something a little grittier, relaxed and Babuino, Margutta and legendary architectural tour de force alone is local is called for, hotfoot it to Monti Condotti? So many shopportunities; worth a viz, but the contemporary for a table at always popular, organic from fashion staple Brunello Cucinelli, art within makes it an afternoon regional kitchen Urbana 47. It just glove emporium Sermoneta, and well spent, and there’s also a natty remains to take nightcaps at the book- home décor at Pratesi, to labelista café in case you get a sudden attack lined social salon Salotto 42 (see Marni and shoe maestro Rene of gallery-itis. When the weather LUXE Loves), and that’s one stylish Caovilla. It’s always important, is fine there is little more pleasant day in the bag! of course, to balance retail with occupation in Rome than escaping culture, so don’t miss Richard Meier’s the milling streets to a rooftop bar stupendous glass and travertine for alfresco sundowners surrounded ‘temple’ that houses the utterly by the amber rapture of ancient

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LUXE ITINERARY Business

Having a summer breakfast meeting? you’re sartorially sorted, you will need to Mascagni Bar scores top marks. Hidden Try to arrange it at the Hotel De Russie think of grooming. Rome’s ladies-in-the- away in the Grand Hotel Plaza, this so you can enjoy the alfresco perfection know all make tracks to the head-turning step-back-in-time capsule of brass and of the Jardin de Russie, with its pretty, Noi salon where up-dos and blowouts red velvet serves up a very decent clipped shrubs and roses and Michelin- rule the day from celebs to contessas. martini and peaceful prosecco, safely starred chef Fulvio Pierangeli’s cuisine. Meanwhile, gentlemen should check into undiscovered by the milling hordes. For Should you have forgotten the mandatory one-stop guy spot Wonderfool – this dinner, Dal Bolognese is packed with the sunglasses that no Italian would be seen groovy groomer features a barber, spa, Estab crowd, politicos, WAGS and celebs, dead without, fret not, simply scoot Turkish bath, mini-gym, massages, facials, but for a venue where the accent is more across the road from the hotel to Ottica male-nails and primping products from firmly on the food, your clients will love Spiezia and get yourself suitably shaded Yosh, Memo, and Geo F. Trumper. Lunch! Antico Arco – great cuisine, swish crowd from their up-to-the-moment range When great value and a great venue are and lovely surroundings. of specs. There is little or no excuse called for, book ahead for the two-course for being badly turned-out in Rome set lunch at Open Colonna. This soaring with a plethora of men’s and women’s glass conservatory attracts a very stylish, outfitters, but for serious men’s shirt professional clientele and is also a social tailoring and excellent suits saunter hub at aperitivi hour. Speaking of which, down Condotti to find Battistoni, and on the occasion that you may prefer classically tasteful men’s and women’s a quiet business drink away from the wear at Brunello Cucinelli. Now that eyes of all, the gloriously old-fashioned

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LUXE ITINERARY The Essentials

ROMANCE STYLE

• Palazzo Doria Pamphilj • Wellness Zone • La Buvette , 305 / Pantheon Hotel de Russie Via Vittoria, 44-47 / Spagna +39 6 679 7323 / 9am-7pm daily Via del Babuino, 9 / Popolo +39 6 679 0383 dopart.it +39 6 3288 8820 hotelderussie.it • Brunello Cucinelli • Caffè Ciampini Via Borgognona, 33 / Spagna Piazza Trinita dei Monti / Centro • The Roof Garden +39 6 678 7680 +39 6 678 5678 / 8am-11pm daily Raphael Hotel brunellocucinelli.com caffeciampini.com Large Febo, 2 / Piazza Navona +39 6 682 831 hotelraphael.it • Sermoneta • GiNa Piazza di Spagna, 61 / Spagna (see Drab vs. Fab) +39 6 679 1960 • Santa Lucia sermonetagloves.com (see LUXE Loves) • Villa Borghese Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 • Pratesi Pinciano / +39 6 328 10 • Caffè della Pace Via Margutta, 41 / Spagna galleriaborghese.it Via della Pace, 3-7 / Navona +39 6 322 4251 +39 6 686 1216 / daily till 2am pratesi.com caffedellapace.it • Galleria Borghese (see LUXE Loves) • Marni Via Bocca di Leone, 8 / Spagna +39 6 678 6320 marni.com

• Rene Caovilla Via Borgognona, 10 / Spagna +39 6 678 3879 renecaovilla.com

• Museo dell’Ara Pacis Lungotevere in Augusta / Corso +39 6 0608 / 9am-7pm Tue-Sun arapacis.it

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LUXE ITINERARY The Essentials

STYLE BUSINESS

• Gusto • Jardin de Russie • Open Colonna Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 / Centro Hotel de Russie Scalinata di Via Milano, 9a / Centro +39 6 322 6273 Via del Babuino, 9 / Popolo +39 6 4782 2641 gusto.it +39 6 328 881 opencolonna.it hotelderussie.it

• MAXXI • Mascagni Bar Via Guido Reni, 4a / • Ottica Spiezia Grand Hotel Plaza +39 6 320 1954 Via del Babuino, 199 / Popolo Via del Corso, 126 / Corso fondazionemaxxi.it +39 6 361 0593 +39 6 6992 1111 / 7pm-midnight daily otticaspiezia.it grandhotelplaza.com

• I Sofà di Via Giulia Via Giulia, 62 / Pantheon • Battistoni • Dal Bolognese +39 6 6866 1245 Via Condotti 61a / Tridente , 1 / Popolo isofadiviagiulia.com +39 6 697 6111 / 3-7pm Mon +39 6 322 2799 10am-7pm Tue-Sat dalbolognese.it battistoni.com • Oliver Glowig Hotel Aldrovandi Villa Borghese • Antico Arco Via Ulisse Aldrovandi, 15 / Pinciano • Brunello Cucinelli Piazzale Aurelio, 7 / Janiculum +39 6 321 6126 / dinner Tue-Sat Via Borgognona, 33 / Spagna +39 6 581 5274 oliverglowig.com +39 6 678 7680 anticoarco.it brunellocucinelli.com

• Urbana 47 Via Urbana, 47 / Monti • Noi +39 6 4788 4006 Piazza del Popolo, 3 / Popolo urbana47.it +39 6 3600 6284 / 10am-6pm Tue-Sat noisalon.com

• Salotto 42 (see LUXE Loves) • Wonderfool Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 39 / Navona +39 6 6889 2315 wonderfool.it

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Your LUXE notes

2014.08.01

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