6E Sunday, July 13, 2014 S1 www.star-telegram.com

the major attractions and heart of . Stand un- Rome areas of the city. It was der the granite columns time and money well and take in this wonder of Continued from 1E spent. Using the hop-on- architecture; then go in- hop-off bus, I traversed side to experience the easily to famous places in- dome built in A.D. 120. ple, loyal to their country’s cluding the Trevi Fountain, This site is always beloved Pope John Paul, as the Coliseum and Vatican packed with tourists but Pope Francis declared him City. Each piazza, or still worth your time. If you a saint. The crowd’s roars square, has its own per- are lucky,you will experi- of delight and applause sonality and attractions. ence the quietness that were a perfect ending to One of my favorite areas falls over the crowd when a the touching ceremony. to kick around in is north soft rain falls through the I soaked in the atmos- Rome. There you will find open skylight. phere and tried to record as the nestled In this area, just off the many mental photographs among the finest designer tourist path, is my favorite as I could, because I know stores, quaint, family-run street in all of Rome — Via that no matter how many shops and restaurants right Margutta. It’s a short more times I’m fortunate off the cobblestone streets. street, tucked away from enough to return to Rome, The Spanish Steps are the hectic bustle, offering I’ll probably never again great for people watching sweet smelling vines, col- have an experience of such (while eating a gelato, of orful flowers, art galleries, historical and spiritual sig- course). shoe cobblers and fine Vatican City, near the Tiber River, is the world’s smallest country. Special to the Star-Telegram/Susan Huston nificance as this. Take some time to bask craftsmen mixed with in nearby shopping heaven small boutiques to delight to enjoy La Dolce Vita small snacks and a glass of find authentic Italian food, Getting to know Rome on the streets leading to your senses and slow down Stroll, or The Sweet Life vino. away from tourist traps; Rome is an ancient city of and then the city pace. Walk.It’s packed with Ital- I spend most of my time for recommendations for about 2.7 million passion- wander over to enjoy the The classic movie Ro- ians and tourist alike en- in these areas during my off-the-beaten-path eat- ate, enchanting, vibrant beauty of nature in the man Holiday was filmed joying the early evening, visits. You can spend days eries, ask your hotel staff but down-to-earth Ital- Borghese Gardens, Rome’s here. Actor Gregory Peck’s people watching, flirting exploring the streets, un- or locals who live in the ians. It stands out among equivalent to Central Park. character lived at Via Mar- and checking out who is covering gifts and souve- neighborhood. (If I am the Italy’s exciting and mag- Plan in advance and make gutta 51, while famed film best dressed. nirs, and living the Italian only American in a restau- nificent destinations. reservations (www.galle- director Leave the maze of the way of life — “il dolce far rant, I know I’ve found a In my five trips to Italy riaborghese.it) to see one lived at Via Margutta 110. cobblestone streets to get a niente,” the sweetness of gem.) in the past 10 years, Rome of three museums in the Make sure to return to bird’s-eye view of Rome doing nothing, as the Ital- About those restaurant has always topped my list gardens. Works by Italian the Piazza del Popolo from the top of the Grand ians say. classifications: The risto- of cities to explore — both masters Caravaggio, Ra- around 6 to 8 p.m. daily to Hotel Minerva (Piazza del- rante is more expensive the tourist must-sees and phael and Titian fill the join the Italians in their ri- la Minerva, 69). This mag- Eat and a bit more formal, the quaint neighborhoods most famous Borghese tual evening stroll, called nificent view of the Pan- Delicious food is synony- while a trattoria is more off the beaten path. Gallery with paintings. the passeggiata. theon and ancient Rome is mous with Rome. casual and lower priced. My first time in Rome, I A quick jaunt down the Next, head down the Via hard to beat, especially Around every corner, The osteria is even less ex- hopped on a city tour bus way is the Pantheon neigh- del Corso and up Via Con- while enjoying an aperitivo you can find a ristorante or pensive than the trattoria. to catch the highlights of borhood, often called the dotti to the Spanish Steps tradition of a buffet of a pizzeria. The trick is to More on ROME, 7E RYAN BEFORE BEFORE RYAN RYAN AFTER AFTER RYAN

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