The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

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05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 6 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM . C klal 7 İsti The Best stanbul’s history clusters around Sultanahmet, site of the ancient capital, and centerpiece to the Ottoman Empire. This area M I Y e e le n Galatasaray is referred to as the Old City, or Historic Peninsula of Istanbul’s Euro- z i S Ç Lisesi . . a C r pean side. Over the Golden Horn (an “arm” of the Bosphorus), and Te ş . r in One Day p ı e e C C l ba a i ş . v ı C m l still in Europe, is the thoroughly modern Beyoglu neighborhood. This . . u e C . rc s a C BEYOĞLU u n r busy tour gives you a taste of both. START: Tram to Sultanahmet. a k i y . l a u S Hasan Paşa S C a l C k t k i . Parkı fi e t C e y s Ş i İ B

iş R t ü h o c a u K n r ü ★★★ e u g 1 = s m g Hagia Sophia C a k . e b z r

a k ü M r T a Y e (Ayasofya). One of Istanbul’s most o s ko e TÜNEL şu n iconic landmarks, with a dusky red S C . G . a exterior and huge domes, there are l i p . Galata TOPHANE C d usually snaking lines to enter this e a Mevlevihanesi s d Nusretiye e . O a Müzesi C p C ek Camii Byzantine church. An earlier church k a . d ç iy en Istanbul u Z H . . r i C . was built on this spot, its present i c i C Modern M e C a l lt y S Lü a e e Istanbul u r n e ib a form dating back to the mid-6th cen- s t a h Modern a m c e m C GALATA K e u . N M tury when it was rebuilt by Emperor T Y e M . e r Arap a C Justinian I. Your first impression, on . lk s li ş K e a Camii y e k n n e k r e C n tü c . a entering its dimly lit first floor, is an a il C t e m A r . KARAKÖY e C K . Se ambience of awe under the magnifi- hahattim KARAKÖY Evrern C. cent 56m-high (184 ft.) dome. Resto- Rihtim C. L eb ration was completed in 2010, so le KARAKÖY bi ü ci H s now you can see the Muezzin’s S ü .. a r Karaköy S l p t i a ç ö ornate loge, and the Omphalion, y K a a ih t n a where Byzantine emperors were aed l ik in C a ac Y . Ra H gi G crowned. Peer through the wrought- p GK üib m l üşp e ala iron grill into Sultan Mahmud I’s çe C. sm Rüstem Paşa i n Camii e library with its stylized Ottoman tile- Y Eminönü EMINÖNÜ work. The upstairs gallery houses H as jaw-dropping 10th-century mosaics, Ta irc Yeni Camii Süleymaniye h ila Sirkeci Take a break at Sultanahmet Park. ta r Camii ka C. Mısır Çarşısı K including that of Christ flanked by le öşkil C. C H Sirkeci Tren . am Emperor Constantine IX and his id İstasyonu Daye Hatun ★ P M ye 2 = Sultanahmet Park. ro arpu PTT İstanbul C . Meschidi f. tcu . C wife, Empress Zoe. Close by you’ll S lar C Müzesi SIRKECI rt ıd etiye Vasif . a Take a breather in this tiny park, its a . dık Onar C.İsm Çina A r asi M C . r C şirefe a ark U . n see Viking-era graffiti etched into i ri C di C k on t F H . y l e z n H s a l u ta fountain lying between the striking it u o ü Nöb Is S. n a A eth h n EMINÖNÜ c d ane O e t a C a C. the marble balcony. Pope Benedict S p a h e v r İstanbul a m e Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque, ş an ş SİRKECİ n i i a Gülhane a d XVI’s 2006 visit reopened old Üniversitesi C S l i . N E g

C . b a u a Parkı p 15) and Hagia Sophia. Savor the . d s r ir u C C. S ud . wounds over whether Hagia Sophia Ö ar Doğa rcan . C ş n e T Topkapı precious location, and recharge the m a ay S. M . Y iğ i S ekteb . C should be a mosque (which was offi- e c an M Sarayı r i lt p l u T a batteries with barbecued corn-on- a S ü r Hü a r a kü ş C rk m cially renamed as Ayasofya after the a BEYAZIT . o k c n e C Ç a t the-cob (misir) from the push-carts. ğ A K . . a V i o Arkeoloji Ottoman conquest, and still called C r e C n d . n nu z a GÜLHANE i It’s a sublime location where every- rlü i ğ Müzesi ü r r Da Kapalı M c . . h refefendi S i i Se Y S S that in Turkish), a cathedral, or a l a C o . o a iye C. e Çarşısı n an i ğ urosm l r r N one gathers to walk its well-laid Beyazit l l e a i u

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Camii . a Aya İrini i . . e t C Ç a e n paths. It’s even better at night, b n ş r Kilisesi e m Ordu C a C . a tests that his praying there would B r e Ye i . Üniversite niç d S when these monoliths are spot-lit; eriler C . BEYAZIT . . ÇEMBERLITAŞ Yerebatan m provoke Islamic sensitivities. Thank- C e l . Sarnıçı amazingly it’s only in the past o Hagia r Div A C an t yolu C İ @ . . s fully, he didn’t. 90 min. Ayasofya a . Sophia a h

C y C i ş decade that Hagia Sophia has T a at i l r SULTANAHMET u T t k ku a G y e yu ed o p Meydani, Sultanahmet. 0212 522 h i r . Sultanahmet a p kpaşa Cami S. L m a ami S. E a C k r . m f been lit up at night. It’s popular for ı ş i in e S Parkı y a Sinan Hamami Pi d n ı . d a S 1750. Admission 20 TL, children o n C l e d a y Türbeler n . K d ü iftar (sunset “breaking the fast” meal G e y M e Müzesi g . under 13 years free; audio tours . lu C Tü . t M l t r a u ik during Ramazan), with picnicking ke C A li C k K iy . o a b 10 TL Tues–Sun 9am–4:30pm (sum- r s k t Sultanahmet a . A locals. Open 24 hr. Tram: a b C y i Camii a Cankurtaran mer 9am–7pm). Tram: Sultanahmet. T K Sultanahmet. SULTANAHMET Ka i C. dirga Liman

C. dy Kenne

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 7 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 8

3 ★★★ = Süleymaniye 4 ★★ = Kurucu Ali Baba. Camii (Süleymaniye Mosque). The first tiny lokanta (simple restau- One of the masterpieces of Mimar rants) facing the mosque, this has Sinan (1489–1588; Sinan, Master served up simple, tasty kuru fasulye Architect, p 11), this Istanbul gem is (white beans) since 1939. Perfect for relatively quiet. With a huge central a no-frills lunch with the locals. 1/3 dome and four slender minarets it

Full-Day Tours Prof Siddik Sami Onar Cad, Süley- was, like many great mosques, part maniye. y 0212 520 7655. Fasulye of a külliye, a mosque complex once beans and rice 4 TL. housing a caravanserai (resting place for travelers), hospital,

The Best medrese (religious school), and 5 ★★ = Kapali Çar@isi (Cov- tombs. It was built in the mid-16th ered, or Grand, Bazaar). You century under the order of Süley- could happily spend half a day get- man I, or Süleyman the Magnificent ting lost in the crowded market; (A Brief History, p 170). The even those who hate shopping will mosque’s interior is breathtaking, its love the labyrinthine walk through a 53m-high (174 ft.) dome soaring piece of history, with the boisterous above the subdued lighting from shouts of traders, dazzling gold stained-glass windows made by stalls, colorful ceramics, and manne- Ibrahim “the Mad” (1615–48), so quins draped with scarlet leather nicknamed because of his eccentric- jackets. Its statistics are staggering: ities. His tomb lies in the rose-clad Over 4,000 shops, 60 lanes, and 550 graveyard; its marble pillars, hand- years of hearty trading. Built by painted tiles from Iznik, and neat Mehmet II shortly after the Con- wooden alcoves are in sharp con- quest of Constantinople in 1453 trast to the modest tomb of his (A Brief History, p 170), its domed adored wife, Roxelana. You’ll find roofs and thick stone streets now fewer visitors here than at the Blue house colorful machine-made Mosque (p 15). @ 1 hr. Prof Sıddık ceramics, with souvenirs replacing Sami Onar Cad. y 0212 513 3608. traditional trades like quilt- and fez- Admission free. Open daily 9am– making. Previously, natural daylight dusk. Tram: Beyazit then 15-min from the ceiling illuminated the walk. entire market; now most rely on

Intricate domes at Süleymaniye Camii.

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 8 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 9 The Best electricity. Iç Bedesten is the oldest part of the bazaar; once a ware- house, it’s now the hub of stylish cafes, although some trades are still booming, like the carpet dealers and in One Day gold and leather stores. There’s a more peaceful ambience in the leafy courtyard Zincirli Han. Admire the sturdy entrance gates (over 20 of them) and outside stalls, a little more earthy where locals grab a bargain, especially leather and denim clothes. If you have the energy, head north from the bazaar via Valide Han (Neighborhood Walks, p 78) to Eminönü, to Misir Çar@isi, or take the tram. @ Any- Peaceful courtyard at Grand Bazaar’s thing from 1–3 hr. Open Mon–Sat Zincirli Han. 9:30am–7pm. Tram: Beyazit; or bus 61B from Taksim. buffet lunch of Turkish traditional 6 ★★ = Misir Çar@isi (Egyp- dishes is popular with local office This tian, or Spice Market). workers. 39/47 Misir Çar@isi, Eminönü. L-shaped market, built in 1660 to y 0212 520 7878. Buffet lunch finance Yeni Camii (New Mosque, 25 TL. p 65) was once filled with piles of fresh peppercorns, cilantro (corian- der), henna, and dried herbs 8 ★★ Rüstem Pa@a Camii brought from Egypt. Now this very (Rüstem Pa@a Mosque). touristy market is more likely to Stashed away above a row of work- have boxes of apple tea, T-shirts, shops, hardly visible from street and gold shops, dotted with stalls level, this mosque really is a hidden selling syrupy baklava and lokum gem. It is delightfully located at the (Turkish delight). Inch your way past edge of busy Tahtakale, and you’ll the crowds to see its delightful first walk through its tiny courtyard domed ceilings. If you want to hang with potted plants lining the bal- out where the locals shop, concen- cony. One of Mimar Sinan’s smallest trate on the stalls running around creations, it was built in 1560 and the outside wall of the market originally funded out of proceeds (including Osmanoglu, my favorite from nearby tradesmen. It’s one of for the freshest pistachios and dried the best places to see the famous figs) for a wondrous supply of Turk- blue Iznik tiles, here covering the ish cheese, olives, fresh fish, and interior. The surrounding streets, halva. (Neighborhood Walks, p 65) filled with busy workshops making @ 1 hr. Open Mon–Sat 9:30am– wooden backgammon sets (tavla), 7pm. Tram/bus to Eminönü. simple hammocks, and kitchenware, are lovely to explore. @ 20 min. y 7 ★★★ = Bab-i Hayat. Hasircilar Cad. 0212 526 7350. Opened in 2007 and converted from a Open dawn–dusk. Tram/bus to warehouse, this gorgeous domed res- Eminönü. taurant looks out onto Misir Çar@isi. Its

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 9 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 10 Full-Day Tours The Best

Watching the fishing off Galata Bridge.

9 ★★ Galata Köprüsü (Galata with fishermen on the upper level, Bridge). Many attempted, and and cafes and restaurants on the failed, to build a bridge linking the lower, looking down to the ships Ottoman Palace of old Istanbul to sailing the mighty Bosphorus. Today the “new” neighborhoods of Pera, you may find yourself here at sun- Beyoglu and Galata, where mer- set, in a cafe playing backgammon chants and diplomats lived. Leon- (hugely popular here) while enjoying ardo da Vinci, no less, had his a beer; in the 19th century, Galata mid-16th-century designs rejected, Bridge was the subject of myriad and Michelangelo even turned down Turkish poems and songs. @ Varies. an offer to design a new bridge. At Tram; Eminönü or Karaköy. last, the early 20th century saw the 0 ★★ Galata Kulesi (Galata first bridge completed, linking Tower). I always recommend this Eminönü to Karaköy over the Haliç to first-time visitors (I’ve ascended (Golden Horn). The wooden bridge it countless times) for the best was destroyed by fire in 1992, 360-degree views of the city and a replaced by today’s bridge in 1994. perspective of Istanbul’s mammoth It’s almost 500m (1,640 ft.) long, size. The 62m-high (203 ft.) conical

Sightseeing—the Basics

Most major attractions are open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am–5pm, some opening later in summer. Getting around the Old City is best done by tram or on foot. Most mosques are open to visitors from dawn to nightfall, excluding prayer times; dress modestly, covering arms and legs, and women should cover their hair. You’ll soon get used to the street names in Turkish; the basic ones are Sokak (abbre- viated to Sok)—road; Caddesi (Cad)—avenue; Meydani—square. You’ll be walking along plenty of those to visit mosques (camii), museums (müzesi), and covered markets (çar@isi)! For other Turkish words, see p 176.

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1010 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 11 The Best Sinan, Master Architect

You’re likely to be awed by the work of one man: master archi- in One Day tect of the Ottoman Empire, Mimar Sinan (1489–1588). He was “adopted” as the Ottoman Palace architect by Süleyman I, under whose reign arts and architecture flourished. Under him, Sinan built hundreds of mosques, hamams, bazaars, and hospitals throughout Turkey but most famously in Istanbul. Ironically he chose the famous Byzantine Hagia Sophia basilica as inspiration for his mosques, to which he added the slender minarets (and rather ugly buttresses) afterward.

tower was built by the Genoese in 1348, when they took control of the trade colony of Pera. Take the eleva- tor to the top to walk around the viewing gallery, overlooking dishev- eled rooftops, minarets, the Bos- phorus, and even the Princes’ Islands (Day Trips & Excursions, p 144). Time your visit for sunset if possible, although it’s a popular time. If you don’t fancy walking uphill to the tower, take the Tunnel (the old subway) from Karaköy to Tünel and walk down (Neighbor- hood Walks, p 56). @ 1 hr. Büyük Hendek Sok, Galata. y 0212 293 8180. www.galatatower.net. Open daily 9am–8pm. Admission 11 TL, children under 6 years free. Tunnel to Tünel or tram to Karaköy and walk.

! ★★★ = Istiklal Caddesi. You’re close to the dining and enter- Climb Galata Tower for the best views. tainment hub of Beyoglu, so try one of its many restaurants around this busy main street. See Best Dining for details, p 97).

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1111 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM Ku m b a ra Yo ko şu S 12 .

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05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1212 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM Ku m b a ra Yo ko şu S . 13 The Best

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05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1313 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 14 n your second day, dip back into Sultanahmet for more Ohistory, including Topkapi Palace, centerpiece of the Ottoman Empire, and Istanbul Modern’s collection of contemporary Turkish art. If you have more time, try to visit the palace and Archaeology Museum on separate days. A Bosphorus Cruise is a perfect way to end the day. START: Tram to Gülhane or Sultanahmet. Full-Day Tours The Best

Historic courtyard of the Archaeology Museum.

1 ★★ Topkapi Sarayi (Top- 2 ★★★ = Arkeoloji Müzesi kapi Palace). Built by Mehmet II in (Archaeology Museum). Part of 1478 and center of the Ottoman the Topkapi Palace’s complex, the Empire until 1853, it’s no wonder museum is world class. It was estab- that it’s usually a struggle to catch lished to prevent classical antiqui- sight of the famous 86-carat tear- ties disappearing to Europe by shaped Spoonmaker’s Diamond and curator and artist Orhan Hamdi Bey Topkapi Dagger inside the crowded (1842–1910), best known for his Treasury. Other highlights include painting The Tortoise Trainer, now the Harem (well worth the extra in Pera Museum (Arty Istanbul, ticket) with its series of tiled cham- p 28). With around one million relics bers—and probably the largest mir- spread over three buildings, be ror I have ever seen. Don’t miss the selective, especially if you’ve just religious artifacts, including those emerged from the palace. I suggest belonging to the Prophet Moham- prioritizing the main building, which med. (Special-Interest Tours, p 24). contains astounding exhibits; don’t @ 2–4 hr. Bab-i Hümayun Cad, Gül- miss the huge Alexander Sarcopha- hane. y 0212 512 0480. www.top gus (4th-century B.C.) with carved kapisarayi.gov.tr. Admission 20 TL, marble scenes of battle, the children under 12 years free; Harem mummy of Sidonion King Tabrit (500 extra 15 TL. Open Wed–Mon 9am– B.C.), and the weighty significance of 5pm; summer 9am–7pm. Tram: Gül- the Treaty of Kadesh (1269 B.C.), the hane or Sultanahmet. world’s earliest-surviving peace

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1414 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 15 The Best treaty. Across the courtyard, the Museum of Ancient Orient has fabulous Babylonian tiled friezes, and Çinili Kö@k (Tiled Pavilion), a small pavilion with an outstanding in Two Days collection of Seljuk and Ottoman tiles. Take a breather in the charm- ing courtyard cafe alongside cats and broken tombstones. @ 90 min–2 hr. Osman Hamdi Bey Yoko@u Sok, Gülhane. y 0212 527 2740. www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Admission 10 TL, children under 12 years free. Open Tues–Sun 9am– 5pm. Tram: Gülhane.

3 ★ = Dervi@. This leafy court- The opulent Harem in Topkapı Palace. yard is perfect to rest weary feet. Nothing extravagant, just tea, narg- approach to the mosque’s courtyard ile (tobacco water-pipe), toast, and from the Hippodrome (see Neigh- snacks, and bang opposite the Blue borhood Walks, p 68) is delightful as Mosque. On summer evenings, try the full impact of cascading domes to catch the Sound and Light show and six soaring minarets unfolds in on the mosque walls. 1 Kabasakal front of you. The number of slender Sok. y 0212 516 1515. Tea and minarets created consternation nargile 8 TL. when it was built, as the only other mosque with six minarets is at 4 ★ Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mecca. Built in 1617 by Mehmet Mosque). Being opposite Hagia Aga, a student of Sinan, this was the Sophia might be handy for sight- last of the Imperial mosques, com- seeing, but the mosque’s location missioned by the 19-year-old Sultan was intentional. It was larger to Ahmet I (its Turkish name is Sulta- emphasize the superiority of Islam nahmet Camii). The courtyard, over Christian Byzantium. The made from Marmara marble, is

Blue Mosque’s distinctive minarets.

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1515 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 16 difficult to see the tiles’ detail, or the carved white minbar (pulpit) and mihrab (niche pointing to Mecca) at the front. During the summer, won- derful Sound and Light shows on the mosque’s walls play from 9pm in various languages; great for kids.

Full-Day Tours @ 30 min. Sultanahmet Meydani. Open 9am–dusk daily, except during prayers. Tram: Sultanahmet. 5 ★★ = Yerebatan Sarniçi The Best (Basilica Cistern). A great feat of Byzantine engineering, this is one of the city’s most unusual and memo- rable sights, dating back to the 6th century. Back then, water came from the Belgrade Forest, some The mysterious Medusa’s head at Yere- 19km (12 miles) away, through the batan Sarnıçı. 4th-century Valens viaduct con- structed by Emperor Valens (p 42). actually the same size as the interior The red spotlights’ eerie glow is of the prayer hall and, ironically, best experienced when the place is more peaceful. Its most famous fea- as empty as possible—try early ture, the blue Iznik tiles that give the morning or late afternoon. Make mosque its name, cover the upper your way to the northwest corner levels and the domes’ interiors— for the two Medusa-head columns, over 20,000 tiles in total—and are thought to be late Roman, one beautifully illuminated by 260 win- upside down and one tilted 45 dows. Astoundingly each tile took degrees. And the reason? No one 72 days to paint. Non-Muslim visi- really knows, except possibly to cre- tors will be ushered around the side ate even more intrigue surrounding of the courtyard and unfortunately the legendary woman who trans- only allowed at the back, which formed people who looked at her tends to get very crowded. It’s into stone. No such grizzly results

The Istanbul Modern.

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1616 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 17 The Best here, as people throw coins into the carp-filled pool and make a wish. Scenes in James Bond’s 1963 film From Russia with Love were filmed here. @ 45 min. 13 Yerebatan Cad, in Two Days Sultanahmet. y 0212 522 1259. www.yerebatan.com. Admission 10 TL, children under 8 years free. Open daily 9:30am–6:30pm (Oct–Apr 9:30am–5:30pm). Tram: Sultanahmet. 6 ★★★ = Istanbul Modern. When you whizz over the Golden Horn by tram to Tophane, near Kara- köy, you leave behind centuries of history. Enter this converted cus- toms house, opened in 2004, to see Savor the views from Anadolu Kavagi. one of the country’s finest art col- lections, from 20th-century Ottoman time for the steep climb to the 14th- art to today, spread over its two century Genoese Yoros Castle for floors. The huge gallery (it still looks incredible views of where the Bos- like a warehouse from the outside) phorus meets the Black Sea. Enjoy has a sublime waterfront location, dinner on the pier then return by so as you peruse the galleries of ferry. If you’re traveling during win- 20th- and 21st-century Turkish art, ter, I highly recommend taking this with paintings, sculpture, videos, trip one sunny afternoon, and per- and installations, you can take a haps visiting one of the museums seat and gaze out to the Bosphorus. the following day. To spend more (Arty Istanbul, p 28.) @ 90 min. time at the castle (it’s less than a Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, Liman I@let- 2-hour turnaround), take the ferry meleri, 4 Sahasi Antrepo, Karaköy. from Anadolu Kavagi to Sariyer on y 0212 334 7300. www.istanbul the opposite side, and a fast bus modern.org. Adult 12 TL, children back to Be@ikta@. From Eminönü 13–17 years 6 TL. Thurs free. Tues– there are also regular 1.5-hour Sun 10am–6pm; Thurs 10am–8pm. round-trip cruises, with no stops, Tram: Tophane. operated by fast, modern TurYol. 7 ★★★ = Bosphorus Cruise. @ varies. Check www.ido.com.tr. One of Istanbul’s most popular trips; for times and prices. Ferries from locals and visitors adore cruising the Eminönü pier. Tram: Eminönü. city’s famous waterway, strategically important for centuries (A Brief His- 8 ★ = Anadolu Kavagi ferry tory, p 170). Trips begin at Eminönü pier. Passengers leaving the ferry pier, with stops including Be@ikta@ may be bombarded with restau- and Ortaköy (Best In Three Days, rants vying for business. Don’t feel p 18) on the European side, pressurized and look around. There Çengelköy on the Asian side, before are also simple stalls cooking fresh terminating at Anadolu Kavagi. balik ekmek (fried fish in bread). During summer, weekday trips leave Snacks from TL 4; entrees (in restau- at 7:15pm from Eminönü and make rants) from TL 10. a wonderful evening, with enough

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1717 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 18 The Best in Three Days

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05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1818 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 19 The Best

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05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 1919 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 20 xperience Istanbul’s finest Byzantine art, then indulge in EOttoman affluence at Dolmabahçe Palace. Need some exercise? You can walk from here to Yildiz Park and onwards to Ortaköy, a charming waterfront neighborhood with plenty of dining options; and by walking you’ll avoid crowded buses and traffic jams, busiest at weekends. START: Bus 86 from Eminönü or 87 from Taksim to

Full-Day Tours Edirnekapi, then 5-min walk.

1 ★★★ Kariye Müzesi (Kariye Ottoman Empire ended its days here Museum). Built in the 11th century (A Brief History, p 170). Its highly The Best as Chora Church, the frescoes and ornate appearance is an eclectic mix mosaics added in the mid-1300s are of mid-19th-century baroque and some of the world’s finest Byzantine rococo styles. The highlight is the art (Special-Interest Tours, p 41). Selamlik, home to the head of the When the church was converted to a house, with an ostentatious marble mosque in 1511, they were plastered exterior and entrance hall with a over, as representation of the human superb gilded ceiling. The sultan form is forbidden in Islam. Ironically received foreign visitors only from this helped to preserve them. In the the 19th century, when the declin- restored church, now a museum, ing Empire depended on European gaze at the golden mosaics in the trade. The Ambassadorial Reception vaults of inner and outer narthexes, hall was created to host guests; you illustrating scenes from the life of can’t miss one of the world’s largest Christ and the Virgin Mary. Above the chandeliers, a 4-ton gift from Queen entrance to the nave the figure of Victoria. Tours of the Harem—the Theodore Metochites (1270–1332), private, far less ornate women’s the theologian who facilitated the quarters—and Selamlik are only by church’s redecoration, “presents” the church to Christ. No flash photogra- Ottoman Mehter music at Dolmabahçe phy or tripods. @ 90 min. Kariye Palace. Camii Sok, Edirnekapı. y 0212 522 1750. Admission 15 TL, children under 12 years free. Thurs–Tues win- ter 9am–5pm, summer 9am–7pm. Bus 86 from Eminönü or 87 from Taksim, then 5-min walk.

2 = Kariye Pembe Kö@k. Rest in a peaceful courtyard opposite the museum with tea, toasted sand- wiches, or hot lentil soup. 27 Kariye Camii Sok, Edirnekapı. y 0212 635 8586. Tea and toasted sandwiches 10 TL.

3 ★★ = Dolmabahçe Sarayi (Dolmabahçe Palace). After lav- ish Topkapi Palace was built (Special- Interest Tours, p 24), the declining

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 2020 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 21 The Best guided tour. You don’t need a ticket to see the Mehter band (Istanbul with Kids, p 38) at 11am every Tues- day by the Imperial Gate. The pompous “changing of the guard” is in Three Days performed by soldiers outside the gate every hour. @ 2 hr. Dolma- bahçe Cad, Be@ikta@. y 0212 236 9000. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Tour of Selamlik 15 TL, Harem 10 TL, tour of both 20 TL, children under 12 years free. Winter open 9am–4pm, summer 9am–5pm, closed Mon and Thurs. Tram/funicular: Kabata@. 4 ★★ Saray Müzesi Koleksi- yonlari (Palace Museum Col- lection). The former palace kitchen opened as a museum in 2005 (origi- Once real deer were hunted at Yildiz Parki. nally known as Depo Müze), with over 40,000 pieces salvaged from Iznik’s and still used today by artists. Dolmabahçe Palace. Few visitors Yildız Sarayi Palace has fascinat- make it here, so it’s easy to discover ing household items which the Sultan’s monograms on intricate belonged to later sultans who lived glass flasks, 4m-high (13 ft.) cabi- here, including Abdülhamid (1876– nets with gold leaf, and gilded bird- 1909). Check out the 19th-century cages. I love the household items, Malta Kö@kü (6), with neo-classi- like an 1870 Remington typewriter cal, Islamic, and Ottoman styles, and central heating from 1912. rococo arches, and baroque oval There’s a charming display of Otto- windows. Murat V (1840–1904) man family portrait photographs, probably didn’t notice, as he was and oil paints owned by Abdülmecid imprisoned here by his brother II (1866–1944). @ 1 hr. Dolmabahçe Abdülhamid II for 27 years. Çadir Cad, Be@ikta@. y 0212 227 6671. Kö@kü has a charming duck pond www.millisaraylar.gov.tr. Admission and cafe. @ 1–2 hr. Yildiz Parki. 2 TL, children under 12 years free. Çiragan Cad, Be@ikta@. y 0212 261 Tues–Sun 9am–5pm. Tram/funicular: 8460. Open daily dawn–dusk. Kabata@. 5 ★ = Yildiz Parki. The sul- 6 Malta Kö@kü. This chalet with tans once strolled and hunted here a terrace commands great Bospho- while living at Çiragan Palace— rus views—probably as close as you which later burnt down, and is now can get to a sultan’s lifestyle. A a deluxe hotel (Hotels, p 136)—and lovely cafe with Turkish dishes, hot Yildiz Palace. These days it’s local and cold. Yildiz Korusu, Be@ikta@. families on weekend visits. Enjoy y 0212 444 6644. Tea and pastries dappled walks on peaceful week- from TL 10. days, with courting couples seeking precious solitude. The steep road 7 ★★★ = Ortaköy. Once a up from the main entrance leads fishing village, Ortaköy today is a to Yildiz Porcelain Factory & busy neighborhood, especially at Museum, built by Abdülhamid II in weekends. On summer weekends 1896 to produce porcelain to rival

05_9781119970392-ch01.indd_9781119970392-ch01.indd 2121 111/10/111/10/11 10:2710:27 PM 22 Full-Day Tours The Best

Ortaköy Camii, picturesque neo-baroque mosque.

the [ open-air market (Shopping, filled baked potatoes (kumpir). Take p 90) has hats, hand-made jewelry, a fruit-filled waffle to finish and dine and old books. From the ] Iskele on the wall while watching the (ferry pier), ferries ply the Bospho- boats. Bliss! Mecidiye Köprüsü Sok, rus and this is a popular stopping-off Ortaköy. Kumpir and waffle 6 TL. point. Perching over the Bosphorus is compact \ Ortaköy Camii (mosque; open dawn till nightfall) 9 ★★ Hamam. You could substi- built in 1853 for Sultan Abdülmescit tute Ortaköy for a soak and scrub in in neo-baroque style. Head upstairs a hamam (Turkish bath). With neigh- to see restored frescoes, plus views borhood baths throughout the city, of ; Beylerbeyi Sarayi (Beyler- Çemberlita@ Hamam is the most beyi Palace) (Neighborhood Walks historic (and foreigner-friendly). Built Üsküdar, p 60). At night, the lights in 1584 by Sinan, the huge marble on the mighty % Bosphorus slab and domes of the sicaklik (hot Bridge change color, graceful with- room) are unchanged, as are the out being kitsch. Look out for , attendants’ energetic scrubs and Ayios Fokas Rum’s beautiful bell massages. Men and women bathe tower (16 Muallim Haci Cad), a separately. Visitors are given Greek Orthodox church previously wooden shoes, soap, and a pe@ central to the local Greek commu- tamel (wrap). You can choose extra nity. @ varies. Bus to Ortaköy. treatments, from basic scrub to lux- urious oil massage. @ 1–2 hr. 8 Vezirhan Cad. y 0212 522 7974. 8 ★★ = Kumpir stalls. An www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr. alternative to Ortaköy’s trendy res- Prices from 39 TL. Open daily 6am– taurants, these simple stalls sell 12am. Tram: Çemberlita@. •

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