WORLD HERITAGE İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 2016 WORLD HERITAGE İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 2016 İstanbul, the only city where continents meet and of the UNESCO World Heritage Committee, we the Orient synthesize a unique culture with the proceeded to establish an ‘İstanbul Coordination Occident, is a city that lives with its historical, Committee’ to start the work of preparation for the cultural, and natural beauties … almost an important meeting and to do all the ground work outdoor museum, hosting thousands of historical for the Youth Forum to be held before it. That work assets inherited from its 8500 year history. As proceeded with the participation of academics, the Metropolitan Municipality, all our efforts are responsibles and all relevant parties, to contribute focused, throughout our tenure, on maintaining to the efforts of the municipality agencies, while the this extraordinary spread of assets left by different international wing of our municipality got in touch cultures and transfer them to the next generations to and worked with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, adorn their city of seven hills. Ministry of Culture and Tourism, UNESCO- Turkey’s National Committee and the Governor’s To protect our cultural heritage, we established Office, to bring us to this point in time and feel the in 2006 an ‘Site Management Directorate’ in pride and joy of hosting this reunion. line with the UNESCO criteria and prepared our management plans for the historical regions At the same time, we included in our agenda a of the city. We organized functions in Paris to publication, to share information on the cultural celebrate UNESCO’s 70th year, parallel to the 30th heritage of İstanbul, to be kept as a durable source of reference and thus, the idea of ‘WHC Special anniversary of İstanbul’s listing as ‘World Heritage Issue – İstanbul’ was born. It was prepared with the Area’. During our contacts in France, we also invited contributions of academics who are experts in their the 2016 World Heritage Committee Session to hold fields. In the belief that it will be of help to bring their meeting in İstanbul. forth the cultural heritage of İstanbul, I would like to Following the acceptance of our invitation and take this opportunity to thank all my colleagues for Turkey being given the pro-tempore Presidency their valuable inputs.

Kadir Topbaş, PhD. Metropolitan Mayor of Istanbul

FOREWORD geography and its architecture, it has developed its rich exterior and interior Settled on the two sides of the diversifications, creating a common Bosphorus sometime between the usage for shared services, a serenity sunrise and sunset of the Old World, which is accepted as a rarity in urban Istanbul stands as an entrust of living. past cultures and civilizations and an original focus of future hopes The sustained care and sensitivity in the and progress, to deserve its special cultural areas was carried into the city’s position among the assets of the World life, to lead to a supreme cultural level Heritage. It has developed from a core where awareness and harmony was of pedestrian town, a pattern hiding its prevalent at the individual and social original surprises, even its dead-end levels. The assets that reflect the cultural that Istanbul is dedicated to achieve. streets, right next to the elements of an heritage, together with the spaces and During the establishment of imperial capital, replaced what is lost urban elements, simply determine, the ‘Directorate of Istanbul Site to time, with new spacial openings, and explain and support that cultural value. Management’, as well as in following the thus diversified its cultural assets until Increasing the abilities of awareness, work done by UNESCO, the support they reached our time. protection and appropriation are only given and sensitivity shown by the possible through the existence of those Its functional monuments, complexes Metropolitan Municipality have been qualities which are shared even at the and other assets crowning its seven exemplary. It certainly is a first and very personal level. hills, have embroidered the plastic special privilege that the 40th Session of its pattern, and as the sea hugs the The identity of ‘World Heritage Area’, of the World Heritage Committee is land, its skyline seemingly different a dimension of the protection and invited to Istanbul. from one hour to the next, the shine of maintenance tradition, stresses the the landscape, bestows on it a unique responsibilities and underlines the The ‘Directorate of Istanbul Site poetic inspiration. importance of the need to succeed. In Management’ has felt a responsibility to prepare a Special Issue in honour Its local character and its tangible that framework, it is unavoidable that of the WHC-2016, and pioneered this cultural assets have always been the protection efforts for the historical, project in the hope that it can perhaps most advanced at every age, but in archeological, and urban areas come to become a tradition to continue. This addition to that, its social life and the forefront. To organize for a target of cultural accumulation makes it rich sustaining the cultural heritage, to draw publication that you are holding in in its intangible cultural heritage as up protection and restoration plans your hands, has been prepared with the well. It has been a World City at all and to secure the support of relevant efforts of academics, colleagues, and the times, indeed, its multicultural peace agencies, to ensure international ‘Communications Advisory Agencies’ and sustained diversity has become interaction, to give support to the of the Metropolitan Municipality and a definition of the Istanbulites. On scholarly research on cultural assets, to will live on as a gift and a reminder of the common denominator of its follow up the process, are prerequisites the privilege we are grateful for.

Halil Onur, PhD. Director of Istanbul Site Management Prof. Dr. Zekiye YENEN Prof. Dr. Fatma ÜNSAL Yıldız Technical University Faculty of Architecture Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University SPECIAL ISSUE ON İSTANBUL Department of Urban and Regional Planning Department of Urban and Regional Planning [email protected] [email protected]

In honor of the 40th Session of the members of Istanbul Site Management • The ‘historical and cultural’ urban cultural, as well as ordinary life pictures. • Sharing information on glass-working international levels regarding the quality World Heritage Committee taking place Directorate, Halil Onur and Muzaffer landscape, bringing together the in ancient Istanbul, an art the of translation. Therefore, the editors have in Istanbul, the July issue of the WHR Şahin, editors Zekiye Yenen and Fatma originalities bestowed upon the city by As the sustainability of the cultural existence of which was not known been mandated to ensure quality in both heritage policies could only be possible 2016 has been devoted to Turkey. As the Ünsal, Publishing Board technical its geography, crowned with its unique until the above digs started languages. The articles contain figures monumental assets and surprising through sharing all available information Special Issue of Turkey covers the assets member Fatma Sema Yücel Sekban, and pictures chosen from the engravings in our country that are on the World living areas with the generations that represent our • How Art Nouveau, a western and communications member Sümeyra and old photographs, suitable to their Heritage List, as well as those that are Yılmaz. future, cooperation with the publishers of movement that impacted the physical now candidates for getting listed therein, • The multi-level inheritance and the the periodical Arkitera was established, environment, was re-interpreted in content, and many more… Istanbul could only be represented in a With the guiding contribution that endless re-development which led to organizing a competition for Istanbul in a unique way During the preparation of the Issue, the limited number of pages. The Istanbul emerged from these search conferences, the youth, on the theme “Istanbul and her • The harmonious varieties of different Cultural Heritage”. It was requested that • Different but special ordinary life snaps editors have found great support and Coordination Board, established for the the reason of existence of the Special rituals, the cultural diversity organizational work of the upcoming Issue was determined to be ‘dedicating the participants submit articles, videos, showing the various cultures that co- assurance in Istanbul Site Management Istanbul meeting of WHC 2016, thus a special publication to this city which • Space of cultural transitions and interviews, graphics, info-graphics, existed in different districts of the city Directorate, who adopted this project decided to compensate for this deficiency has been uniquely special throughout original locations of the movements photos, or cartoons, to win publishing as an opportunity to enhance their space in the Special Issue. • A flash-back on protection policies by preparing and publishing a SPECIAL the history’, based on the fact that which have spread to larger concerning the historical city during corporate identity, displaying an ISSUE ON ISTANBUL. Istanbul has been known as the “Gate of geographies In the above mentioned framework, the the early Republican Period accommodating attitude. Additionally, Happiness / Dersaadet” for Europe, Asia, Special Issue 2016 includes the original the dedicated work of the young and As soon as the target was thus defined and Africa through ages. • Paradigm-shifting design and • Identity of the World Heritage Area and manufacturing traditions articles on: dynamic staff of the Directorate who at the meeting of the Board on October the phenomenon of Protection 28th, 2015, preparations were launched The publication was based on the generated excellent compilation of • Identity and Protection of the World • Administration of the city and its spatial through a series of search conferences approach of elaborating the tangible and • Contributions of the Winners of articles in a very limited time is highly Heritage Area reflection with the members of the Advisory intangible cultural heritage together, Cultural Heritage Competition appreciated. Council, so that the Special Issue could since otherwise the buildings might lose • Influence of geography on the shaping • Scholarly field requiring multi- We would like to express our hopes be developed with the input from their soul and be left without a subjective disciplinary work of the historical settlements Some examples of the technical diligence larger groups of competent people. value, thus enabling to shape the future are: As the Special Issue is being that the Istanbul Issue will be long- Those invited for consultation were correctly based on the proper reading of In order to reflect all of the above, the • Ever-deepening history uncovered separately printed in Turkish and in lasting, while we await positive/negative (in alphabetical order) Ahmet Vefa the past. Special Issue is endowed with articles during the archeological digs for the English, articles had to contain their comments and constructive contributions Çobanoğlu, Gülşen Özaydın, Hayri that use the special elements of the Marmaray and Metro constructions, lists of glossaries to avoid difficulties from all those concerned. Fehmi Yılmaz, Necdet Sakaoğlu, Ümit Therefore the Special Issue on Istanbul tangible cultural assets, in order to relay a with interpretation of the city’s multi- of understanding words in Ottoman Meriç, Yegân Kâhya, as well as the covers: socio-economic, political, administrative, level structure (early) language, in order to reach Istanbul, May 2016 Governance of Istanbul – Capital of FORMATION of ISTANBUL with a From ART NOUVEAU to ART DECO The ARCHAEOLOGY of the GLASS FINDINGS from MARMARAY/ 12/23 Three Continents THE WEDNESDAY 24/31 view to NATURAL STRUCTURE and 32/41a NEW OPENING in LATE OTTOMAN 42/57 HISTORIC PENINSULA, 58/65 SUBWAY CONSTRUCTION COUNCIL and BÜYÜK KOL CLIMATE ARCHITECTURE a WORLD HERITAGE SITE EXCAVATIONS at SIRKECI CONTENTS (THE GRAND INSPECTION)

EYÜP, from the 17TH CENTURY A ‘NEAR but FAR’ ARCHIPELAGO: DILEMMA of the CONSERVATION PRECEDENCE of LOCAL İSTANBUL and CULTURAL 66/73 to the REPUBLIC with a VIEW 74/85 the ISTANBUL ISLANDS 86/99 of CULTURAL HERITAGE and 100/105 ADMINISTRATIONS 106/109 HERITAGE COMPETITION to IDENTITY, IDEOLOGY and MODERNIZATION in the EARLY in the PROTECTION of SYMBOLICAL MEANING REPUBLICAN PLANNING of NATURAL and CULTURAL ISTANBUL INHERITANCE WORLD WORLD HERITAGE İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE Translation Belkıs Dişbudak The authors are responsible for the choice and the presentation of the facts contained HERITAGE Magazine is published in English and Turkish, in İstanbul. Nedime Mercangöz in the articles and for the opinions expressed there in İstanbul Special Issue. The source İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE2016 Editors Zekiye Yenen, Fatma Ünsal International Conference Interpreters - UKT for photos is not specified at the end of article, it was used from the author's archive or Editorial Assistant Fatma Sema Yücel Sekban Publisher İstanbul Sit Alanları Alan Başkanlığı Atatürk Library, İstanbul Site Management Directorate and IMM’s archives. Publications Coordinator Muzaffer Şahin Production İstanbul Büyükşehir Belediyesi The Date and Place of Published June 2016, İstanbul Type of Publication Special Publication ISSN Xxx xxx

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 11 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016 Governance of İstanbul – Capital of Three Continents Necdet SAKAOĞLU THE WEDNESDAY COUNCIL and BÜYÜK KOL Writer, Researcher & Historian [email protected] (THE GRAND INSPECTION) Following centuries of existence under capitals, with the city’s own hierarchical purpose. The highest decision making likely at Kubbealtı (Chamber of the the name of Constantinopolis, İstanbul organizations, their safety and security authority was the Divan-ı Hümayun Imperial Council), but during the 17th became the capital of the Ottoman measures for the inhabitants, their own (Imperial Council), the others working century and onwards, they were held at Empire, to be called ‘Mahrusa-i Saltanat’ protocols and ceremonies. İstanbul first more like sub-committees to this higher Paşakapısı- Babıâli (The Sublime Port). or ‘Dersaadet’ between the years 1453 became a capital of an Empire in 331 organ. İkindi Divan (Mid-afternoon The meetings were chaired by the Grand and 1922. The natural borders of the AD, and kept this position after Rome Council), Tuesday Divan, Wednesday Vizier (the person responsible to the walled city were the shores of the inlet and Byzantium, through the centuries Divan, Friday Divan were some examples. Sultan for the governance of İstanbul), Golden Horn, the Straits of Bosphorus, under the Turkish Sultans. Sultans, just There seems to have been a Sultan’s Divan and should he be away on a military and the Sea of Marmara. Beyond the land like the Emperors before them, resided in in the earlier days, but the Divan On campaign, or working away at Edirne walls lay the agricultural fields, through this city as they governed the countries Foot, Divan on Horseback, or other ad (Adrianapolis), called to order by his which passed the ‘Sultan’s Road’ (Via they dominated on the continents of hoc talks usually took place in the open deputy. Members of the Divan were Egnetia) to connect the city to Rome, Europe, Asia, and Africa; from this very air, and not in any conference hall. ‘İstanbul Efendisi (the city qadi) and the then known to the Turks as the ‘Red city that they called Dersaadet (Door of Bilâd-ı Selâse – the ‘qadi’s representing Apple’. Happiness); and for a period of 470 years the three parishes of the city: Galata, (from 1453 to 1923) they upheld the Üsküdar, and Eyüp. İstanbul today is simply a district in the happiness and prosperity of their capital İstanbul became an imperial shadow of skyscrapers, called ‘Fatih!’ As (Image 1). Image 2. Eyüp was not a commercial area; it was in command of a vast area capital in 331 AD and kept all the way to Çatalca and Silivri, consisting of farmland belonging to the the grand city turned into a megapolis, Sultan; as it was a sacred place as well The highest decision making one district somehow managed to Each sultan came to learn and to this position through Roman swallow up the historical capital. It has understand every corner of this authority in the Ottoman State become very difficult to identify the lost magnificent city set up on two seas, the and Byzantium periods all the İstanbul. Terms like ‘Historical Peninsula’ was the ‘Divan-ı Hümayun’. Straits, the Golden Horn, the hills and the way to the end of the Ottoman or ‘Intramuros’ sound very artificial and islands, through the visits he conducted, İkindi Divan, Tuesday Divan, not at all appropriate. Yet not so long on foot or on horseback, sometimes Empire. Just like the emperors, ago, people from surrounding districts of disguised, as well as through the Wednesday Divan, and Cuma Üsküdar, Kadıköy, Beşiktaş, Kasımpaşa, regimental inspections and ceremonies Sultans also ruled their lands used to go ‘to İstanbul’ and return home held at different occasions. It was the Divan were committees of this ‘from ’. Today’s İstanbul is more like a out of this city they called Sultan’s special ambition to enrich and High Council, and were held at small country stretching out all the way beautify every part of the city with all ‘Dersaadet’, which lead them to Gebze in the east and Çatalca in the kinds of works of art. Some sultans west. the Paşakapısı/Babıalî established organizations for the public to care seriously for its works in their city, and declared codes (Sublime Porte). In the past, governments had all sorts of of law to bring their ‘vizier’s and ‘qadi’s happiness and its prosperity. special provisions for their administrative together in special Councils for this Image 3. Galata, symmetrically located to Eyüp on the other side of the Haliç As soon as the weekly held Wednesday (Golden Horn), was another trade center Divan session came to an end, the İkindi (Mid-afternoon) Divan, Tuesday Divan, and Friday Divan convened at the Büyük Kol (Grand Inspection Tour) Grand Vizier’s Mansion or at Paşakapısı commenced, lead by the Grand Vizier, (The Sublime Port), where secondary to check the city, with a special focus issues left out at the Imperial Council on the markets. Yeniçeri Ağası (The were handled and certain court cases Commander of the Janissaries), subaşı were taken up. The Friday Divan, which (chief of police) asesbaşı (chief of the Grand Vizier chaired and with night watchmen), kol oğlanları (law Commanders of Rumeli (European) and enforcement agents), the Chief Architect, Anadolu (Asia Minor) Forces present, and several other officials were members worked, in a sense, more like a High of the inspection team, and at each stop, Court of Appeals. the orders or penalties issued by the Grand Vizier were instantly executed. The agenda of the Wednesday Divan, along with its Büyük Kol (The Grand İstanbul was the kind of capital that Inspection of the city with its markets necessitated this kind of special and shops), was devoted solely to Image 4. The identity of Üsküdar, developed across the Bosphorus, was symbolized by governing structure, because of its Image 1. A large part of Dersaadet (intramural İstanbul) was made up of market places. ‘İstanbul’. The meetings may have been its pier and the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque natural layout, its defence needs, the size Formed around the Covered Bazaar and composed of commercial buildings, held at the palace in the early days, very of its population and its requirements the security and auditing of this trade area was of extreme importance İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 15 2016 authorities, independent of one The walled city ‘Dersaadet’ had another. They came together during the Wednesday Divan each week, but had no three parishes around it, called hierarchical privileges towards each other beyond the requirements of protocol, and all together the ‘Bilad-ı Selase’. the parish ‘qadi’s certainly did not report These were Eyüp, connected to the qadi of Dersaadet.

to the walled city on the land This special administrative structure of and through the Haliç (Golden İstanbul established under the Ottoman sultans remained unchanged over Horn), Galata, on the north centuries, with procedures taking place on exactly the same days, with the same side of the Haliç, and Üsküdar, agenda, the same participants and the located on the other (Asia) side same hierarchy. It ended in the 19th century with the introduction of the Image 6. The ‘qadi’s of İstanbul and its Bilad-ı Selase Image 7. The focal point of İstanbul trade centers was the ‘Çarşı-yı Kebir (Covered Bazaar) of the Bosphorus. Şehremanet (administrative order based were members of the Wednesday Divan. They attended the ceremonies in their official outfits, at once, using the formal phrase “We Qadi had to do the same at the meşruta riding their decorated horses, wearing their large command the qadis of Dersaadet and in the yard of the Arab Mosque, and the turbans and their furs related to transportation and public Bilâd-ı Selâse…”, or they addressed ‘Qadi’s of Üsküdar and Eyüp handled The borders of Eyüp parish each qadi) was one year; a qadi could works. Outside the city walls were its only one of them (“We command the the same tasks in their respective homes, however be reappointed to the same three parishes: ‘Eyüp’ (Image 2), ‘Galata’ encircled a large area all the qadi of Mahrusa-i Galata ...”). The qadis having to get their secretaries write up position. located across the Golden Horn (Image way to Çatalca. Galata parish of Dersaadet and Galata were also the documents such as ilam, hüccet, 3), and ‘Üsküdar’ (Image 4), on the Asian responsible for ensuring the safety of dava, tescil, vakıf, nikâh and have the shore of the Bosphorus. To these parishes area was from Kasımpaşa to Even though the qadis of İstanbul ships’ crews and passengers arriving same secretaries record the proceedings belonged tens or sometimes hundreds of and its three parishes were the in their ports, and of the personnel of in the registry books. Their aids as far as towns, districts, and villages. Beşiktaş, and then on to the highest administrators and judges foreign delegations working within their the administrative and auditing work is of their respective area, they had no borders. They were also tasked with concerned, were the ‘kethüda’s, ‘bab’s, and last villages on the Bosphorus. assisting them in solving their problems. the ‘ayak naip’s, along with the muhtesip, İstanbul was the capital, the ‘Dersaadet’, authority over shipyards, barracks and Üsküdar was the only parish on outposts where troops of the sultans kâtip, kassam, muhzır, subaşı, asesbaşı, because of the privilege of hosting böcekbaşı, tellal, kolcu suyolcu, chief household were stationed, i.e., locations The four ‘qadi’s who were, together with the palace and the sultanate. Its three the Asia side, and its borders architect, and master builders. Dersaadet, administered by the janissary, and police the Grand Vizier, in charge of İstanbul’s parishes, Galata-Eyüp-Üsküdar, were Eyüp and Üsküdar ‘Qadi’s lived in their called ‘the Bilâd-ı Selâse’ literally stations in their region. The qadis of problems related to administration, included the Prince’s Islands own homes, while the Galata Qadi lived meaning ‘the three parishes’. Eyüp had İstanbul and its three parishes received security, all the way to food supply, did in İstanbul, to commute to Galata and its parish center on the shores of the in the South, and all the area direct orders from the Sultan and the not have any official stations. The İstanbul back daily by a rowboat. inlet Haliç (Golden Horn), and was first up to Beykoz in the North, Grand Vizier without mediation of Efendi/Qadi of Dersaadet, handled court called ‘Havass-ı Konstantiniyye’, and the Wednesday Council. Such orders cases at the Mahmutpaşa Mosque or later, ‘Havass-ı Refî’a (the Exalted Has). and to Gebze in the east. Image 5. Just like the Wednesday Divan Sessions, were either addressed to all four qadis at his own residence, while the Galata The protocol for crownings, ‘muayede’s The borders of the parish stretched out the Grand Inspection Tours were also conducted to Çatalca. The Mahrusa-i Galata, with These parishes had towns, under the leadership of the Grand Vizier its Acropolis-like fortress and its famous neighborhoods and and ‘qadi’s. Members of this autonomous tower, covered the area from Kasımpaşa class rose within the hierarchy until they to Beşiktaş, and from there, all the way villages in them. reached the so-called ranks of mevleviye to the last village on the Bosphorus shore to be then appointed as qadi to the (European side). Medine-i Üsküdar was parishes of Galata, Eyüp or Üsküdar. the only parish on the Asia side, and its on governorates and municipalities), borders included the Prince’s Islands in during the reform era known as The position of the Dersaadet qadi was the South, Gebze in the East, and Beykoz Tanzimat. The underlying reasons for the reserved for the members of the districts on the North. In the larger settlements immutability lay in the sharia law and of Edirne, Medina and Mekka. A level higher in rank were the military qadis of each parish, there were governing the common law with all its traditions. Image 8. The Vezir Baş Tebdili, Vezir Tatar Ağası, Image 9. Baş çavuş, Orta Çavuşu and Image 10. Şatır, one of the bodyguards of the officials called the ‘kenar naibi’ and ‘ayak This organisational structure was based (commanders in chief) for Anadolu (Asia Kol Başı and Salma Çuhadarı, serving as gatherers Koloğlu Baş Çavuşu, attending the Grand Vizier naibi’. The ‘qadi’s of Dersaadet and Bilâd-ı on immunity for the ilmiye (scholars and Minor) and Rumeli (Lands in Europe). of intelligence and information, as well as being Grand Tour as janissary officers Selâse were judicial and administrative scientists) class of instructors (müderris) The müddet-i örfiye (term of office for guides to the group

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 17 2016 (wish-merry holidays) and other public order, of the trades, and issue city’s daily life, were taken up in the third give a chance to the shopkeepers to tidy ceremonies required that all four punitions on the spot (Image 5). In the part of the session, dealing with food, up, there was a group of torchbearers that The Inspection tour of ‘The Wednesday Divan’ was a ‘qadi’s be invited, while during holiday event of the Grand Vizier being away on fuel, prices/officially fixed sales prices, preceeded the inspection group. rituals the Sultan had to offer his hand a military campaign or working at Edirne public works, constructions, settlements, Wednesday Divan covered consultative and judicial board, to them to be kissed, as he did to the (Adrianapolis) together with the Sultan, roads, cleaning services, water and The Grand Vizier, as the main person eminent people of the ilmiye class. This this responsibility was undertaken by fountain services, transportation, animal Hocapaşa, Sirkeci, Eminönü, the terms of reference of which responsible for the order in the city, was an expression of respect for the Sadaret Kaymakamı (his deputy), who, in feed, fires, epidemics, migrations, inspected the market-intensive districts. Unkapanı, Yağkapanı, Balkapanı, was mainly what was called the ilmiye people. The İstanbul ‘qadi’s who such situations, chaired the Wednesday wharves, and market places, including The ‘qadi’s of the Bilâd-ı Selâse, did not ordinarily wore woven cassocs, imamahs Divan sessions. the opening of new shops, whereby Yemişkapanı, to proceed ‘Büyük Kol’ (Grand Inspection) have to be part of the Büyük Kol, but it and blue mest shoes, had to attend decisions were reached and orders issued. through the markets, Zeyrek ceremonies in larger oval imamahs, and was a tradition that they often conduct to cover the markets and On Wednesdays, immediately after the in accordance with the season, in their their own inspection tours in their ramp, Saraçhanebaşı, Uluyol morning (sunrise) prayer, the four ‘qadi’s The Wednesday Divans were held in bazaars as well as the general large sleeved fur coats. They were to put respective parishes. would be waiting for the arrival of the the framework of Divan-ı Humayun gold embroidered and tussled covers on and Divanyolu, to return to order of the city of İstanbul. Grand Vizier at the gate of the Paşakapısı (Imperial Council) protocols, and were the backs of their horses, and had lackeys Divan Hall, who would, on arrival, greet generally concluded towards noon, with The Grand Vizier mounted his horse where it had started off. As of the 17th century, the in felt clothes walk along them. the ‘qadi’s, wishing them a good morning, a service of lunch. It was then time for at the gate of Paşakapısı, and with Wednesday Divan was held, not and proceed to take his place on the Büyük Kol (the Grand Inspection), before his entourage including the İstanbul Wednesday Divan Sessions seat of honour. He would then invite the which, those not required to take part, qadi, the Yeniçeri Ağası (Commander Zeyrek Yokuşu, Saraçhanebaşı, Uluyol, at the palace anymore, but at of the Janissaries) or the Sekbanbaşı to return to Paşakapısı by the road called It was a requirement of the long İstanbul and Eyüp ‘qadi’s to sit on his excused themselves to the Grand Vizier Divanyolu, and the inspection tour would the Paşakapısı, where it was running law that Dersaadet (İstanbul- right, and Galata and Üsküdar ‘qadi’s and left. (Chief Sekban), the clerks of the office presided over by the Grand intramuros), Galata Havass-ı Refi’a, on his left (Image 6). It was required by of the Grand Vizier, the keepers of the be concluded. (Eyüp) and Kasaba-i Üsküdar ‘qadi’s the protocol that the Grand Vizier, or Gates, the Chief of Police, the Chief of Büyük Kol / nightwatchmen, sergents of armory Vizier, the person responsible to meet every Wednesday morning at the deputy chairing the session in his The tour usually took up to three or The Grand Inspection and artillery, the deputy of the qadi, the Paşakapısı (Sublime Port) Divan Hall or absence, wear a Selimî imamah, and the four hours, with frequent stops to check the Sultan for the administration “As inspection tour happily starts in the head of public regularity (in a sense, the at the residence of the Grand Vizier, and furs that signify his position. When the product quality, the order in shops and time of twilight Mayor), the chief architect, Concierge of of the city. Members of the hold a session that concerned the agenda session started, the Grand Vizier first workplaces, the level of cleanliness at the Bostancı, the official of the mobile of İstanbul. It was also a tradition that heard the complaints and consulted the Is the torch of the moon not sufficient to bakers’ and butchers’, the baking of the board were the qadi of İstanbul, soup kitchen, the inspection agents, chief prior to the session, the Grand Vizier ‘qadi’s, then issued the necessary orders light up the path” (Nailî) breads, their weights, the ratio of fat in saddler, and the cheer makers, in short, and the qadis of Galata, receive the newly appointed ‘beylerbey’s himself. The second part of the Divan meats, their freshness, the compliance (governors) and ‘sancakbey’s (Sanjak involved the İstanbul and Parish ‘qadi’s with an impressive and intimidating The last phase of the Wednesday Divan with the fixed prices, the scales used by Üsküdar, and Galata. This set- governors) along with the Yeniçeri Ağası hearing the appealed cases. The sharia group, took to the road (Image 8-16) . was the Büyük Kol, the deictic inspection the merchants, the weights, the bazaars, (Commander of Janissaries). cases heard at the Divan were registered up lasted until municipalities tour, for it was a tradition that the Sultan the inns, the streets, and the fountains. on the judicial books, while cases relevant and the Grand Vizier frequently inspect The route of the Büyük Kol would run When the Grand Vizier wanted to stop and governor’s offices to administrative or common law were In addition to being responsible to the the city (Image 7). In order that the through Hocapaşa, Sirkeci, İskele başı and demount, the Yeniçeri Ağası held exempted from being recorded. were created. Sultan for the administration of the touring group does not have to encounter (Eminönü), Unkapanı, Yağkapanı, his briddle and helped him down, then capital, the Grand Vizier had as his any fights, quarrels, unwelcome waste Balkapanı, Yemişkapanı, traversing the stood in reverence together with the main task to inspect the running of the Administrative subjects important for the dumps, rubble or pits on the road, and to markets (sometimes visiting Eyüp), qadi of İstanbul, and never spoke until it

Image 11. The enforcers of the Grand Tour: Image 12. Kethüda Başı, Çorbacı, and Odabaşı, Image 13. Sekbanbaşı and Subaşı, Image 14. Officials responsible for the Image 15. Kollukçu Zabiti, Kara Kollukçu, and Image 16. Sebilci and Saka, orderlies of the Tour Commander of Janissaries, Ağa Yamağı attending the Tour as Janissary officers attending as aids to ‘qadi’ order in Istanbul markets: Kara Kollukçu and Kollukçu Çavuşu, three of Grand Tour officers (his deputy), and Falakacı Başı Kollukçu Çavuşu İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 19 2016 was asked of them by the Grand Vizier, immediately following the conquest of who proceeded to consult the qadi on İstanbul (1453), The Grand Vizier was matters of fixed prices, and the chief of Mahmud Pasha, while Hızır Pasha was regularity (Mayor) on matters of roads, qadi of İstanbul, and Molla Hüsrev, Molla “Kanun-ı Divan-ı Çarşanba (Law on the Divan of Wednesday) fountains and cleanliness. Any punitions Gürani, and Molla Arab were respectively On that day, the city qadi, the ‘qadi’s of Galata, Eyüp, and Üsküdar will meet at the palace of the Sadrazam (Grand during the tour were at once executed in ‘qadi’s of the three parishes. the presence of the merchants and the Vizier). Sadrazam would arrive at the Divanhane (meeting hall), wearing his Selimî headdress and his official furs. In accordance with the procedures of the Divan, he hears the cases, and has the ‘qadi’s hear, as the situation may require, public. There are some exemplary stories References in historical records about some such solves the issues of the people in accordance with the sharia law, brings peace to conflicts, and applies the Ottoman laws. penalties, which included the falango Ergin, O. N., Mecelle-i Umûr-ı Belediye, 299 After the Divan, there is lunch served. Any newly appointed ‘beylerbeyi’ governors of Asia Minor or Rumeli, and Beys in the middle of the road, or forcing vd. (governors) of Sanjaks present themselves at the Divan. Should the Sadrazam wish to proceed in accordance with the common law and go on the inspection tour, he, still in his official outfit, the protocol is as follows: First, the subaşı (chief the guilty party to feed his stale meets Evliya, Seyahatnâme, v. 1, p. 363, 432, 440, of police) and the asesbaşı (chief of nightwatchmen) mount their horses, in their official outfits, followed by the Çardak or insufficiently cooked breads to the 462, 472. çorbacısı süpürge and deputy of the city qadi. The sergeants then accompany them in their selimî turbans, and on their dogs right there. As one such example, Matran, R., İstanbul I, p. 127-139. in Mür’i’t-Tevârih we read that in 1732, fitted up horses. The torchbearers in their special outfit walk off first, in rows of twos, followed by the enforcement Mumcu, A., Hukuksal ve Siyasal Karar Organı the newly appointed Grand Vizier agents. The chief of regularity (Mayor) in his official outfit, walks on foot, by Sadrazam’s right stirrup. The scalebearer Olarak Divan-ı Hümayun, p. 148, 166. Hekimoğlu Ali Pasha had, in his very first walks in front of the Sadrazam, surrounded by the entertainers, while the chief of the bailiffs walks on the right side, and inspection tour, ordered the hanging of Ortaylı, İ., Türkiye İdare Tarihi, p. 157. the head of the Bostanci group on the left of Sadrazam. They are the ones to carry the equipment for punitions, and they 22 bakers, grocers, and butchers until he Sakaoğlu, N., “Bilâd-ı Selase” D. B. İstanbul are also responsible for catching the guilty and executing punishment. The ramainder of the group walk behind, in mixed reached Eyüp from Paşakapısı, in order Ansiklopedisi, v. 1, p. 228-229. order. As they leave the palace, they follow the wharf road and reach Unkapanı to check the situation with grains. When it is necessary to dismount, everyone, except the sergeants do so. The Commander of Janissaries helps the Sadrazam to put some fear in the hearts of the Sakaoğlu, N., “Bilâd-ı Selase” D. B. İstanbul dismount and hands him the staff, borne so far by the Mayor. After checking the grains business, everyone mounts and wrongdoers. Ansiklopedisi, v. 2, p. 228-229. they head for Zeyrekbaşı, to check the officially fixed prices and punish any wrongdoings. When the situation requires, “Tevki’î Abdurrahman Paşa Kanunnameleri”, they execute the necessary punishment immediately. During the inspection of bakeries, the mayor takes bread samples When the tour was concluded and the Millî Tetebbular Mecmuası, v. 3, p. 501-503. and hands them to the Sadrazam to be examined. Finding no fault, they continue, but when punishment is called for, group returned to Paşakapısı, samplers Uzunçarşılı, İ. H., Osmanlı Devletinin İlmiye it is applied on the spot. Whenever the Sadrazam stops, the qadi and the commander of the janissaries also come to (tasters) had tables set up for the Grand Teşkilâtı, p. 96-101, 137, 212. a stop. They do not speak, unles they are asked to. It is not lawful to address anyone but the Sadrazam directly. The Vizier and his entourage, following Uzunçarşılı, İ. H., Osmanlı Devletinin Merkez Sadrazam addresses his questions through the qadi or the mayor. If the meat stocks at the butchers’ shop are inadequate which, the members of the group were ve Bahriye Teşkilâtı, p. 40-181. or unsatisfactory, the question goes through the commander of the janissaries. After Zeyrekbaşı, the group takes the free to leave. Uzunçarşılı, İ. H., İstanbul ve Bilâd-ı Selâse Divanyolu road to return to the palace. Once farewells are said, they all are free to go. When Sadrazam’s deputy is in Denilen Eyüp, Galata ve Üsküdar Kadılıkları, charge, he abides by the same rules, in which case, the Chief Sekban replaces the commander of the janissaries, and the At such times when the Grand Vizier was İstanbul Enstitüsü, v. III, p. 25-32. enforcement agents take the place of the torchbearers. away on a military campaign, however, Ziyaoğlu, R., Belediye Rehberi, p. 39. his deputy chaired the Wednesday Divan at his own residence, and took the team on the road; but since such situations References of Images almost certainly called for the Yeniçeri Image 1-4, 6, 7 Archive of Necdet Sakaoğlu Ağası (Commander of Janissaries) to be Image 5, 8-16 Mahmut Şevket Paşa, Osmanlı away as well, the Chief Sekban would Teşkilat ve Kıyafet-i Askeriyesi Text of the Law on Officially Fixed Prices replace him, and instead of the group of Sadrazam, as the representative of the torch bearers, the enforcement agents In order to prevent shop owners abusing their customers by applying excessive prices, the Sultan may impose a fixed state, must personally be careful about the preceeded the group. price. As the director of worldly affairs and aid to government, Sadrazam (Grand Vizier) consults knowledgeable parties the subject of the fixed prices; for markets in order not to cause unnecessary losses to the seller or the buyer, and issues a firman to the ‘qadi’s to apply a fixed price. operating in an orderly manner are necessary They then proceed to determine a price, follow the implementations, and punish those that do not comply. The matter Conclusion for the comfort of the world. This is how it is of ‘Fixed Prices’ is a general issue. The price, once fixed, cannot be changed or augmented unless a new firman is issued. Sadrazam (Grand Vizier) was the written in the ancient laws. It is necessary to be extremely careful in issuing price related firmans, for this is a business that requires consultations. absolute proxy of the Sultan, as well as Summarised from “Tevkı’î Abdurrahman, Those who resort to cheating, who fail to conduct their business in the clean and proper way, or sell goods that are the Administrator of İstanbul, and the Paşa Osmanlı Devleti’nde Teşrifat ve Törenler/ underweight, must be penalized as the situation calls for. Wednesday Divan served as the Advisory Tevkı’î Abdurrahman Paşa Kanûn-nâmesi and Judiciary Council. It can be said that (Hazırlayan Sadık Müfit Bilge), Kitabevi, during the initial setting up of the system İstanbul, 2011, p 8-10”

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 21 2016 GLOSSARY responsible for control of palace entrances. KADI KETHÜDASI: Official who architect, head of public architects. SARAÇBAŞI: Manager of the market of ALAY: An official ceremony, parade. DERSAADET: Name given to Istanbul carries out the daily services for Grand MOLLA : ‘Qadi’ of a province. saddlers (elected by saddlers). ANADOLU KAZASKERİ: Head of High when it served as capital to the Ottoman ‘qadi’. MEVLEVİYET: High level ‘qadi’ duties. SEKBANBAŞI: Second to the Court of Appeals for the Anatolia Province. Empire. KALFA: Aid of an architect. MUAYEDE: A ceremony where Commander of Janissaries. ARASTA: A street designated to DERSAADET KADISI: Judge to handle KANUN-I KADİM: Aquis – laws that reciprocal felicitations are made on SELİM-İ KAVUK: A semi-cubic shops doing the same business in old judiciary and administrative business of are applied since the founding of the special days. headdress for the Sultan, narrow around marketplaces. İstanbul. Ottoman State. MUCİP-İ İBRET: Applying punishment the forehead, larger on the top. ARIK: Meat with no (or little) fat content. DİRHEM : Old time weight unit (approx. KAPIKULU: Paid soldiers entitled to openly, as an example to others. SERASER: Valuable fabric, embroidered ASES BAŞI: Plain clothes enforcement 3.2 grams). quarterly salaries. MUHTESİB: Mayor in Ottoman times. with gold thread. agent dealing with intelligence. DİRLİĞİ OLMAK: (in the text) To KAPI KETHÜDASI: Semi-independent MUHZIR: Official who brings the SİCİL DEFTERİ: A register where be part of the Janissary organization AT DİVANI: An ad hoc meeting held by ‘emirs’ Istanbul representatives. complainant and the defendant to where the ‘qadi’ decrees and official documents are (entitled to a salary paid quarterly). the Sultan while he is in the process of KASSAM: Man of Law who handles the ‘qadi’ hears the case. entered. DİVANHANE: The hall where Grand getting on his horse (bridle in hand, foot inheritance of the deceased, and divides MUMCU: Walks in front of the protocol, SİYASET: (with a difference to its Vizier holds the meetings he presides in stirrup). what is left between the inheritors. carrying symbolical candles. general use) to issue capital punishment. over, at Paşakapısı. SUBAŞI: Commander of gendarmerie in AYAK NAİBİ: Aid to a city ‘qadi’, KANUNNAME: Sultan’s laws of MÜCEVVEZE: High, cone shaped DİVAN-I HÜMAYUN: The large hall in cities and towns. who handles matters in far districts perennial implementation. headdress. the palace where the grand council meets SUYOLCU: Auditor of a city’s inbound (commuting on foot or by mule). KAPAN: A building where quality MÜDDET-İ ÖRFİYE: Tenure. under the Grand Vizier. controls and pricing of imported goods water canals, who also arranges for BAB NAİBİ: Aid to high level ‘qadi’s. MÜDERRİS: Teachers at medrese schools. DİVAN RAHTI: Ceremonial saddle. are handled. necessary repairs. BELDE KADISI: ‘Qadi’s of small areas. MÜHEYYA: Ready for service, ready for ERKAN KÜRKÜ: Special ceremonial fur. KEÇELİ ÇUHADAR: A ‘Paşakapısı’ SÜPÜRGE SORGUÇ: Fan-like BEYLERBEYİ: Highest territorial and a task. EŞMEK: One of the different styles a decoration attached to the front of a military authority in Ottoman provinces. orderly who wears a felt headdress horse walks. NARH : A fixed price for merchandise, turban. BİLAD-I SELASE: Eyüp, Galata, similar to those worn by the Janissaries. FALAKAYA YATIRMAK: To apply the agreed between the qadi and the relevant ŞATIR: Parade soldiers marching on two Üsküdar parishes (suburbs) of Istanbul. KENAR NAİBİ: Man who understands Islamic punishment by hitting the soles merchants. sides of the Sultan (or Grand Vizier). BİNEK TAŞI: A high enough stone law and hears court cases in small of a person’s feet with a stick. OCAK : Barracks or temporary stations ŞEHREMANETİ: The administrative outside the door, to facilitate mounting a settlements. GALATA MOLLASI: The ‘qadi’ for military staff. regime of Istanbul after Tanzimat horse. KETHÜDA: Broker, man who handles responsible for judicial and ÖRF : Common law (not religious, but (Municipality). BİNİŞ: A day long trip or visit for which what needs to be done. administrative management of the Galata traditional). ŞEHİR KADISI: City ‘qadi’. the Sultan leaves the Palace. KETHÜDA YERİ: Aid to Kethüda. parish. ÖRF: Oval headdress. ŞERİAT : All laws regulated in BOLYENLİ: Ceremonial furs with long KIZIL ELMA (Red Apple): Last target in GAŞİYE: Saddle. PAŞAKAPISI – BABIALİ (Sublime compliance to Islamic law. sleeves and hem. Ottoman Expansion Strategy – Budin (one GİDİŞ: Departure and return of the Porte): Administrative center of ŞERİYE KATİBİ: Secretary who records BOSTANCI ODABAŞISI: Commander side of today’s Budapest). Sultan, or of the palace people. Ottomans (second to the Palace). ‘qadi’s verdicts and decrees in the of palace guards. KOL : A group given the task of an HAVASS-I KONSTANTİNİYE – PAYİTAHT: The city where the throne is, registry book. BÖCEKBAŞI: Police that walks and inspection (or the destination of the HAVASS-I REFİ’A: A name given to the capital of a state. TAZİRE MÜSTAHAK: Person who controls the markets during night-time. inspection). Eyüb parish. PERİŞANİ: A headdress made of very deserves punishment. BÜYÜK KOL: Grand inspection of KOLOĞLANI: Security officer auditing HÜCCET: A document of proof issued fine cloth wrapped around. TEBDİL: Disguise (to allow the Sultan markets and city, lead by the Grand Vizier. marketplaces. by Divan-ı Hümayun (Grand Council). RUMELİ KAZASKERİ: Head of all or the Viziers to inspect without being CEBECİ: Section of the army responsible KOLCU: Person who checks and keeps HÜKÜM: An order given by the Sultan ‘qadi’s at the European Provinces of the recognised). for maintenance and protection of watch at roads, flatlands and passages. or the Grand Vizier. Ottomans. TEŞRİFAT: Protocol. Rules to designate weapons. KOLLUKÇU: Controller at the City Gates. İBTİDA: Firstly. SAÇAKLI ABAİ – RİŞE: Decorated the stations and behaviours of ceremonial CUMA DİVANI: Meeting held by the KUBBEALTI: Hall where the cabinet İHTİSAP AĞASI: A title corresponding ceremonial saddles for high officials. participants. Grand Vizier on Friday mid-afternoon at his meets at the Topkapı Palace. to ‘mayor’ today. SADARET KAYMAKAMI: ÜSKÜF: A cylindrical cap for palace own residence. KULLUK: Police station. İKİNDİ DİVANI: Meeting held by Grand Representative of Grand Vizier in orderlies. CÜLUS: Crowning of a new Sultan. Vizier mid-afternoon – same as ‘Cuma MAH: Month, a 30 day period of the moon calendar. Istanbul when he is away on a campaign. VEKİL-İ DEVLET: A term to refer to the ÇARDAK ÇORBACISI: The official that divanı’. SADRAZAM: The primary Vizier who Grand Vizier. hears the complaints of merchants in the MAHREC MEVLEVİYETİ: Provincial İLMİYE: People who teach Islam- carries the Sultan’s stamp. VEZİR: Member of divan, or a governor. markets. personnel cadre for ‘qadi’s. compliant subjects at ‘medrese’ schools, SALI DİVANI: Grand Vizier handling VEZİR-İ AZAM AĞASI: Public orderly MAHRUSA-İ GALATA: Galata parish. ÇEKDİRME: To weigh something. who can also serve as ‘qadi’. the matters left over from the Tuesday to carry out personal service to the Grand MAHRUSA-İ SALTANAT: Capital of ÇEŞNİGİR: Head of serving staff in İSTANBUL EFENDİSİ: Grand ‘qadi’ Divan, at Paşakapısı. Vizier. Ottoman State : İstanbul. protocol banquets. who rules Istanbul and deals with the SALTANAT: Sultanate, the dynastic right YENİÇERİ AĞASI: Chief Commander MEDİNE-İ ÜSKÜDAR: Üsküdar parish. DARP VE TAZİR: The verdict of ‘qadi’ as judicial matters. of a ruler that comes from family. of the Central army - Jannissaries and to the physical punishment for the guilty İHTİSAP AĞASI: Mayor who dealt with MEŞALECİ: Carriers of torches when SANCAKBEYİ: Ruler of settlements (or ‘sipahi’ (mounted) soldiers. person. problems of Istanbul in the era before officials need to be out on duty during military areas) smaller than a province, ZABİT: Officer in the army, or official DERGÂH-I ÂLİ ÇAVUŞU: High official Tanzimat (Decree of Reforms- 1839). the night MİMAR. BAŞI: The Grand but larger than towns. with power to arrest. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 23 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

Assoc. Prof. Dr. Esin Ö. Aktuğlu Aktan FORMATION of İSTANBUL with a view to Yıldız Technical University, Faculty of Architecture, Department of Urban and Regional Planning. [email protected] NATURAL STRUCTURE and CLIMATE The morphological development process Today’s topographic and geomorphologic of İstanbul can be studied from many structure of İstanbul and its environment different angles. The content of the Natural structure and climate is a result of a lengthy and complex concept of morphology enables us to process. As a result of geological events relate to all kinds of areas and search are of great importance in the of millions of years, there were collapses their contribution to the development in the region which were later filled with process. This paper will look at the choise of location, the shaping, sedimentation, to form the Kocaeli and contributions of the choice of location as and the development of cities. Çatalca peninsulas, with traces of few well as of the natural layout and climate. elevations. The area on which İstanbul While suitable geographic sits (Figure 1) is composed of 74,4% Natural factors certainly play a big part plateaus, 9,5% plains, 16,1 low mountains in the choice of location, the shaping conditions and climate and hills. Topography is of a low plateau and development. Among those factors, contribute to the sustainability with a height changing between 100- natural structure and climate are 200 meters. In comparatively recent important as far as sheltering, a basic of cities, they also provide geological times, the plateau arched human need, is concerned. As to the comfort and a feeling of safety itself on an axis to be drawn from the climate, such physical conditions provide Belgrade Forrest to the Aydos Mountain, sustainability to the city and create a to the population. in northwest-southeast direction. As feeling of comfort and security for the a result of that, the network of surface society it will harbour. waters were impacted, and it is thought that this caused the streams on the Figure 1. İstanbul Relief West of Bosphorus to direct themselves Morphology1 is a science that investigates Natural Layout of İstanbul lake, and that the connection with the Any slope gradients beyond 45 degrees character and causing high gradient towards the Sea of Marmara, while the the shapes and the evolution of those İstanbul has quite a complicated natural Black Sea5 happened at a later date like on the plateau surface are termed as facets despite the low elevation of the ones on the east of the straits began to shapes in different areas. The city’s structure, spreading itself to both sides 5500 BC though the Bosphorus. mountains, the numbers of which plateau6 created a character of the flow towards North, to pour into the internal (basic) structure (the choice of the Bosphorus, to lands on the Kocaeli increase in the Northwest and Southeast topography which impacted land use. Black Sea. It can be observed that there of place, the suitability of the natural Peninsula and the Çatalca Peninsula. Marmara shores of İstanbul are low corners. The Prınce’s Islands in the It also influenced choices for settlement, is a dense network of valleys on the structure, its sensitivity to climate, etc.) Between Black Sea in the North and shores. Higher shores and cliffs are visible Southeast of the province were originally as well as the ways of development and plateau, and that these have cut deeply have an impact on how the city will Marmara Sea in the South, Bosphorus further North, closer to the Black Sea, as corrosion residue hills, which later found means of transportation. Rarity of large into the land, dividing it to pieces, the shape itself. The physical shape of a city stretches roughly in northeast-southwest well as on the Black Sea shores on the two themselves surrounded by the sea. plains forced the majority of settlements most important among the cuts being the is an outcome of a combination of many direction and being so, sides of the North opening of Bosphorus, to valley openings, deltas, or alluvial -it is the only seaway that connects Straits of Bosphorus. This cut, with the aspects of its geography and history; and stretching to east of Şile and even Ağva. Valley network, having a deep-cut cones. The inlets in the Bosphorus, like the cultures of the Black Sea and important results it brought forth in the compared to the economic, social and Mediterranean Sea; form of topographic traces, can explain cultural events that the city faces, and -and it holds a position to connect as well the rib fractures that lie at the bottom. to the established conceptual categories, as separate the continents of Europe and With the last rise of sea level in the world, the former has an order which is easier the valley of Bosphorus filled with sea 2 Asia. to study and follow in sequence. The water, while a large number of inlets at size seen on the plan, as defined by its This also happens to be one of the valleys’ openings, some examples being contours, as well as the vertical definition main factors that influenced İstanbul’s Büyükçekmece, Küçükçekmece, Haliç observed, are closely related to the development through history, while (The Golden Horn), and Terkos. The 'shape'. differentiating Bosphorus from any other creeks and islets around Tuzla, like the place and bestowing on it a a very special Prince’s Islands, and some smaller creeks When we look at the morphological identity.3 between Yenikapı and Yeşilköy (which development of İstanbul, we see that the later were filled by silt) were also formed 8000 year old city has been impacted As we study the topography, at the same time. Obviously the layout by diverse factors. For our discussion, geomorphology, hydrology, soil of İstanbul and the basic shape of the we shall sieve through, and pick out the structure and flora of İstanbul, it is easily coastline gained its present appearance effects of natural structure and climate, understood how, thousands of years ago, throughout its history.4 It was understood how these have made the city attractive, it must have been a place so attractive that until 7000 BC when sea water came and how they gave directions to the to settle in, and how sustainable such in through the Dardanelles, the Sea of development. settlement could be. Marmara was a fresh (slightly bitterish) Figure 2. İstanbul Water Basins and Protection Belts

1 Morphology – ‘Form is the appearance of the core, and the core is the reality of the form. Form can define the movement of the core as limiting, or as developing. Like in forms of 5 After the Ryan and Pitman (1998) theory, Giosan (2009) et al. did some research at the Danube delta, which showed the water level at production, it might be developing in the beginning, and change into limiting afterwards.’ O. Hançerlioğlu, 2008, Felsefe sözlüğü, Remzi Kitabevi, İstanbul, p. 28. Black Sea to be approximately 30 meters lower than it is today. 2 Benevolo, 1993, p.16 6 Façeta – the scarp created by a fault beginning to break on a sharp slope. 3 Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, vol.3, 1994, p.76 İSTANBUL 4 Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, 1994: p.77-78 SPECIAL ISSUE 27 2016 The Golden Horn, Istinye and Tarabya, creates the positive effect of a rich valley strongly impact the water resources of the reason for the latter probably being are typical ria type coasts.7 In antiquity, network in which the arms, at times, the narrow strip that lies in the east-west the elevated land on both sides of the settlements on the Bosphorus were cross or unite, making it eligible for water dimensions.10 As one goes north, the waterway, intensifying the speed of wind The climate is expected to always on small plains at valley openings, storage or dam building. (Figure 2) quantity and time of rainfall increases. in the channel. This is why highest winds change and become more precipitate areas or alluvial cones. They Floods are seen as often as droughts. of the city are always measured in the were separated from one another by hilly Many different soil types exist in İstanbul, Bosphorus. terrestrial in the near future; land, and their communication with their among which, the most common is the Situated at a place where different air therefore it is important that surroundings remained limited for a long brown forest soil, as it covers the whole currents are active, İstanbul’s summers The city being under the influence of time. North part of the eastern peninsula. are usually hot and dry, while winters are the northern and southern air currents, any work on the future oriented precipitous and cold. Springs see a lot should strong north winds continue a few The most important hydrological Within the brown forest soil, the humus characteristic of İstanbul is the sea that of cool, humid and rainy days, while in days without interruption, one can see a plans concerning the city must type absorbs rain water and contains a surrounds it. On the North, lies the Black autumn, cool and wet days may alternate rise of level in the Marmara waters up to rich variety of micro-organisms. Another be approached with absolute Sea, an intercontinental inland sea, while with sunny days.11 one meter. Southwind, though, creates type of soil found in ample quantities is Figure 3. İstanbul’s climate within the in the South, is the Sea of Marmara, Marmara Region the opposite effect. One can also observe care, in order minimize the the non-calcareous brown type, which, Generally the most dominant wind called some changes in the current regime of one can see in the southern parts of the 12 impact upcoming climatic Climate Poyraz comes from northeast (annual the Bosphorus. eastern peninsula, and in the northwest average 130 days), followed by the one “Climate” is a name given to the averages change. and southeast parts of the western called Lodos from southeast (Figure 4). Small valleys and waterways are natural İstanbul benefits from the of long term meteorological indicators peninsula. Its loose and grainy structure possibilities offered by its such as temperature, humidity, air The southeast wind is usually followed air channels and play an important role reduces the water absorption quality and pressure, wind, level of precipitation, and by rain. However, due to the changing in the aeration of the city and reduction Sea, or from Bosphorus to the hinterland. natural structure, possesses yields to evaporation, for which reasons types of precipitation, in a given area. shapes of the land, some differences may of heat. At times, certain obstacles may Highest averages are usually measured it is usually shown to be the basic cause Like most lands geographically suited be observed in certain districts; as one change the wind direction, in which around Kartal, and the lowest at Ömerli.13 a mild micro-climate, and is of dry woodlands and maquis types of to be gateways or passages, İstanbul’s example, in the Kartal area, the dominant cases, the wind can no longer adequately wind comes from west in winters and aerate and cool the city. Regional winds growth. As to dunes, they are mostly climate also has a complex structure. Annual relative humidity average of located in the south of an inlet springs, but from the east in autumn and need to be beyond a critical level in order on the narrow beaches of the western We generally observe the effects of three İstanbul is about 75%. The ‘feel’ values, different types of climate in İstanbul summer. to be effective on diffusing the city’s air. (Haliç) protected from winds as peninsula, and in the area between the however, may differ from the ‘real’ values, Terkos Lake and Black Sea, while in the (Figure 3): The humid Black Sea The dominant wind blows stronger on Air temperature falls as one moves from depending on the level of humidity and a natural port, at the southern eastern peninsula they are to be found Climate (due to proximity), moderate the Black Sea coast and in the Bosphorus, the Marmara coast towards the Black speed of wind. near the Black Sea shore, behind Şile and Mediterranean Climate (the Aegean and end of the Bosphorus. The Marmara Seas carry the effect to the Ağva, as well as around the opening of north, without any blockages of high topography, geomorphology, the Riva stream. elevations on the way), and the Terrestrial hydrology, soil composition, Climate of the inland areas. At times, The natural flora of metropolitan İstanbul these different effects can be seen to act flora and position all tell us that seems to be forests, maquis, pseudo- together, or in close sequence, like rains maquis (mutated to adapt to the Black in the morning and sunny-warm in the a settlement here could provide Sea climate, more tree-like maquis), afternoon, or vice versa, enablingİstanbul outstanding possibilities as far and shore plants. In both Çatalca and to stand out as a unique place, unlike Kocaeli peninsulas, plants adapted to neighbouring provinces.9 as sustainability is concerned. the climatic conditions, and developed “moist” types in the North and “dry” The climate brought on by the geography types in the South. Flora is under the of the city, invite some important suggestions as to how the city shaped influence of the soil type, as much as the some other water mass. Water transfer itself. between the two, creates two different climate. Non-calcareous brown forest soil levels of current in the Bosphorus. breeds beech trees, while brown forest There are two significant cyclone orbits 8 There are no large rivers within the soil is more prone to oaks and chestnuts. that pass through İstanbul, both acting borders of İstanbul, consequently no The geographic position, topographic as sources of precipitation for the city plains, either; what there is, though, is structure, elevated land, soil and climate and its surroundings. Any changes in a considerable number of streams. The conditions of İstanbul make it eligible to the orbits of these cyclones (such as their geo-morphological character of the land developing natural forests. northward or southward movements) can Figure 4. Dominant wind directions in İstanbul Figure 5. Topography of Historical Peninsula 7 Sharp and deep shores of Bosphorus are sometimes called ‘ria shores’. These are shores that are formed by valleys deep cut by rivers on comparatively high elevations, which later find their lower parts under water. 8 www.ibb.gov.tr/sites/ks/tr-TR/0-İstanbul/Tanitim/konum/Pages/Cografi_Konum_ve_Stratejik_Onem.aspx 11 Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, vol.4, 1994, p.149. 9 Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, vol.4, 1994, p.148. İSTANBUL 12 Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, vol.4, 1994, p.149. SPECIAL ISSUE 29 10 M. Kadıoğlu, 2009, p.203. 13 M. Kadıoğlu, 2009, p.207. 2016 Byzantine era, and the locations of the shores of the inlets, people toiling the months, natural corridors must be in the early Holocene? Quaternary Science Septimus Severus, Constantinus and land and fishing for a living.16 These opened, sustained, and new ones must be Reviews, 28: 1-6. Theodosios city walls, were chosen in settlements started on the south end of devised in dense settlement areas. Kadıoğlu, M., (2009),“İstanbul’un Rüzgârları”, the Bosphorus (nearer the city-center), accordance with the valley-network, İstanbul vol. II, YKY Yayın, İstanbul, p. 199-209. water reserve areas, high elevations and and soon there were ‘yalı’s on the shore, Any interference with the topography, topography. The two crests and the valley and growing districts around the piers the waterways, the lakes, the flora and Kuban, D., (2009), “Topoğrafyanın yarattığı it between, have played an important where commuters’ vessels docked. There the forrests, force the people to break kent”, Karaların ve Denizlerin Sultanı İstanbul role in the city’s development and its use were areas where the beaches allowed a away from the shores and go North, vol. I., YKY Yayınları, İstanbul, p. 93-113. of land (Figure 5). The roads connecting development of social services. The city to where the water basins, the forrests Ryan, W.B.F., and W.C. Pitman III, 1998, the settlements on the crests to the city- that had a compact shape earlier, has are, condemn them to live away from Noah’s Flood: The New Scientific Discoveries center in the triangular area, were also changed during the 20th century, with the moderate climate, and cause more about the Event that Changed History,.Simon the railroads serving the suburbs, first pollution and spend more money trying the result of existing conditions. Due & Schuster, New York. to scarcity of flat land for settlement, or in the east-west directions, and later to live in places unsuitable for settlement. for building roads on, for that matter, towards the northern parts. In 1910, Soysal, M., (hazırlayan) (1996), Kentler Kenti initially the city’s expansion followed settled areas covered about 10 kilometers Should a city begin to lose its identity İstanbul, “Dünya Kenti İstanbul” Sergisi’nin the valleys and the hills between them, of a diameter.( Figure 6). during its development, all that remains bilimsel kataloglarının metinleri (HABİTAT rather than a sprawl growth.15 The wind will be its name. Its natural structure, II), Tarih Vakfı Yayınları, İstanbul. is especially effective on the coastline Conclusion its topography, its elevations, streams, Tekeli, İ., (2013), İstanbul’un Planlanmasının flora, climate, winds and other natural of this area. The Golden Horn with What really makes İstanbul what it is, is ve Gelişmesinin Öyküsü, Tarih Vakfı Yurt primarily its natural form. The city was characteristics, are most probably the its unusual natural conditions and Yayınları, İstanbul. sheltering against the winds, provided initially born in the southern (sheltered) reasons behind the initial birth of that Yenen Z., Enlil Z., Ünal Y., (1993), “İstanbul: safety as a port, increased the city’s area and used the means offered by city in the first place. If developments importance and its power. the natural structure. Being located on are not managed along those lines, the A City of Waterfronts or A City Inland”, R. Bosphorus and two continents added to character of the city changes. When the Brutomesso, ed., Waterfronts: A New Frontier In mid 19th century, the settled area its strategic importance. natural structure is tampered with, that for Cities on Water, Venice, p.116-123. had a diameter of approximately 3 would lead to changes in its flora, its With its two shores and its valleys climate, even to the level wind can be kilometers, in other words, any access References of Figures was within walking distance. That was a running down the intramuros plateau, effective there. What needs to be done is time when İstanbul had the character of it gained a skyline of unique qualities to convert the changes toward the benefit Figure1. sehirrehberi.ibb.gov.tr/map.aspx, a city of pedestrians, where people either and continues living as one of the most of the city. edited by E. Aktan. walked, or commuted by rowboats. beautiful cities of the world – and it Figure 2. sehirrehberi.ibb.gov.tr/map.aspx, was all the making of its topography. References Figure 3. www.newkon.net/1123.html, edited In the following period, the evolution The social life, though, is a gift from the Aktuğlu Aktan, E. Ö., (2006), Kent Biçimi- by E. Aktan. of public transport played an important sea. Those waters unite the two sides of Ulaşım Etkileşimine İlişkin (Tarihsel ve role in the city’s development. During İstanbul rather than separate them. The Güncel) Yaklaşımlar ve İstanbul Örneği, Yıldız Figure 4. 1/50.000 scaled İstanbul post-Tanzimat period, the upper view of the sea from land, and the view Teknik Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü Metropolitan Area Sub-region Master Plan of the land from sea – this is what real echelon of bureaucrats chose to live Şehir Planlama Programı, (unpublished PhD Report. İstanbul is, and it owes its crown as “the on the shores of the Bosphorus, thus thesis) İstanbul. Figure 5. http://individual.utoronto.ca/safran/ capital of empires” precisely to that.17 there appeared scattered settlements Aysu, Ç., (1989), Boğaziçi’nde Mekânsal Constantinople/Map.html along the coastline, mainly at locations Despite the fact that it is a city of water, Değişim, İstanbul Üniversitesi Deniz Bilimleri Figure 6. A. Y. Kubilay, İstanbul Haritaları suitable geographically. Initially such there are clear warnings that its climate ve Coğrafya Enstitüsü, (Aysu, Ç., (1989), locations were chosen in accordance 1422-1922, Denizler Kitabevi, edited by E. will become more terrestrial in the future, with the topography, sheltered against Boğaziçi’nde Mekânsal Değişim, İstanbul Aktan. in fact, we are warned that the change has Figure 6. Topography of Bosphorus and settlements, 1905 winds, therefore mostly on the shores Üniversitesi Deniz Bilimleri ve Coğrafya already started. It is absolutely necessary of the inlets or at the openings of Enstitüsü, (unpublished PhD thesis) İstanbul. As far as the maritime traffic least twelve times during each crossing. to be extremely careful during the work valleys. For the first settlers in the area, Benevolo, L., (1993), Avrupa Tarihinde is concerned, considering the The surface current being in the north to on any plans concerning the future of this was certainly enough, as they were Kentler, transl.:Nur Nirven, 1995, AFA south direction, accident risk increases the city, to secure that the change is morphological structure of Bosphorus, protected against strong north winds, contained to a minimum level. In urban Yayıncılık, İstanbul. with the bottom and top currents in the in winter due to the added force of the had streams in the valleys to meet their 14 planning, it is of utmost importance Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, channel and the seasonally changing wind. needs for water, good alluvial soil for that wind directions are taken into (1994), vols.3. & 4, Kültür ve Tabiat Vakfı meteorological conditions, we can see their agriculture, excellent spring waters consideration. In order to clean the air in why this passage is one of the most Formation of İstanbul to drink, and they could even fish on the Yayını, İstanbul. the city, and to bring in the cooling effect dangerous and narrowest waterways of The city’s initial nucleus on the triangular Giosan, L., Filip F., Constantinescu S., (2009), shores of the inlets. In time, permanent of the wind, especially in the summer the world. Vessels need to change route at tip of the western peninsula during the villages were seen on the south-facing Was the Black Sea catastrophically flooded

14 Kadıoğlu, 2009: 209. 16 Ç. Aysu, 1989: 172, 6. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 31 15 Dünden Bugüne Istanbul Ansiklopedisi, p.78. 17 D. Kuban, 2009: 94-96. 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

Prof. Dr. Afife Batur İstanbul Technical University, Faculty of Architecture, From ART NOUVEAU to ART DECO Architectural History Program. [email protected] a NEW OPENING in LATE OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE Art Nouveau / New Art his experimental work. His famous the intellectual background that exists in Art Nouveau is a French term that means house, ‘The Red House’, was designed by the European capitals that bred the Art ‘New Art’, and is known as a movement Architect Philippe Webb in 1850, but he ‘Art Nouveau new concept Nouveau. of art and thought that surfaced towards did the whole furnishing and decoration the turn of the century, seeking new work himself (Image 1). models’ is the name of a Owing to the farsighted actions of concepts, a new ethic, and experimented movement that seeks a the Imperial administration, modern with new forms and shapes. It spilled over He developed the idea that, with his communication and transportation from France, reached other European friends, they should start a decorative new ethic, and proceeds to were in place to connect the Ottoman countries, America, even Japan, and arts laboratory. They started out as the capital to European cities; telegrams during nearly 25 years, was able to carve ‘Morris-Marshall-Faulkner Company’ experiment with new were running, railroads were being laid, its mark significantly. It is a romantic, and produced carpets, fabrics, wall-paper, all facilitating the ties between İstanbul individualist movement of design and furniture and glass articles (Image 2). In forms and setups. and Europe. Just like Paris and Brussels, ornamentation. 1881 he founded a carpet factory and in İstanbul also had its Bon Marché, Au 1890, a printing house. The distance that Lion, Bazaar Allemand, Louvre, and Among the progenitors of Art Nouveau, separated industrial production from the the rich, the enlightened, and the other big stores, while the İstanbul W. Morris (1834-1896) stands out world of design was about to shorten due freedom-oriented, played a considerable bourgeoisie followed the latest fashions of as the initiator of the search for the to his efforts. role on the norms of Art Nouveau Paris or London through Maison Botter’s ‘new’. Starting in mid-19th century, shaping themselves. ‘haute couture’ creations or through Mir William Morris and a group of thinkers After these initial efforts, the Art et Cotterau. Cercle d’Orient, Teutonia, Almost in the same years, artists who around him were disturbed by the Nouveau Movement appeared when Constantinople, Union Française were had similar ways of thinking in Britain, industrial productions of their time, Europe found some peace after long years the Clubs, and Concordia, Odeon, France, Belgium, and then Germany, which were made and marketed with of war and reached some semblance of Crystal, Petit Champs were some of the Austria and Spain were beginning their no consideration of form or esthetics, political stability. The movement first theaters. Many others can be added to search of a new, creative style, and most creating a ‘shapeless, ugly, and surfaced in industrialized countries that those lists, and thousands of buildings came together around some magazin unacceptable’ anarchy of things, and had covered mileage in the new ways of were being put up, all inline with the published in their respective countries. started their individual missions to free production. The thought-based structure European way of life. the world from it. of it must have been fed by the advancing (Images 3, 4, 5). industrialization and the growing The Municipality, established for the first That magazin turned out to be Liberty The W. Morris thinking, marks the economies. It certainly benefitted from time in mid-century, was also in a hurry in Britain, Modern Style in America, Art Image 2. Wall-paper design, 1862-W. Morris beginnings of Art Nouveau in Europe. the developing technologies in printing, to give the city a modern appearance. publishing and transport. The esthetic Nouveau in France and Belgium, Nieuwe Son of a well to do family, he was hinterland. Especially after Tanzimat This determination, coming together educated at Oxford, and then launched needs and demands of the new classes, Kunst in Holland, Jugendstil in Germany, Secessionstil in Austria, Stile Floreale in (Restructuring Decree), when the with the environment described above, Italya, and Modernismo in Spain (Figure 1). Art Nouveau architecture in administration became more active and meant a big business opportunity for the more centralized, the importance of architects from Europe. While only in İstanbul and The Art İstanbul, grew to answer the imports and port facilities gained more the beginning of the century A. Melling Nouveau Style needs and tastes of the social significance. The high revenue earned was just one foreign architect working The years that created the Art Nouveau from the transit trade, combined with here, fifty years later Fossati Brothers movement coincided with the pre-fall groups that preferred the the population increase, made İstanbul had put their signature on many İstanbul years of the Ottomans, and the end of the dominant city of the country. The city buildings. It is known that the second the century saw İstanbul as the capital style, mainly as a derivative of certainly had enough accumulated capital half of the century had a high number of a collapsing Empire. The nationalist to be invested in constructions. of architects coming from different or ethnic uprisings, unending wars those people’s financial means; European cities, and they were actively and series of defeats had weakened It was true that İstanbul had a market working. and impoverished the Empire. Despite consequently the buildings are for constructions and architecture. all efforts, industry had not developed There was a new bourgeoisie in town. In fact, western styles and forms were not enough, and productions were low. There generally large, impressive and The affluent, including the higher a stranger to Ottoman architects. Krikor was a huge quantity of importations. Ottoman bureaucracy, local Europeans and Garabet Balyan, Melling and Smith, expensive structures. who had chosen to live here, and the Fossati brothers had been well known These miserable conditions, however, representatives of European businesses, names who had used their classical had needs and expectations which were training in their work throughout do not appear to be valid for İstanbul are concerned. These were the mega- and some other cities. The dark and gaining more weight. In short, İstanbul the century. When that generation cities that collected all of the country’s desolate picture suddenly becomes in those times, perhaps much like an disappeared, the classical discipline began luminous when İstanbul, or Izmir production and exported it – in a sense, island within the Empire, appears to have to lose out after 1860's, to be replaced by they had the whole of the Empire as their the financial and social conditions, plus some diversity, some eclecticism with a Image 1. Red House- Designers: Ph.Webb and W.Morris İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 35 2016 information that claims this. Although architect Raimondo d’Aronco for Sultan İstanbul had a lively cultural life, the Abdulhamid II’s official Dutch tailor research up to this point in time yielded Looking at the urban Jean Botter, to be used as the Maison for no clue of any magazine or society that localizations in İstanbul, it is his haute couture business. Aronco was gave specific support to Art Nouveau, but the tailor of the Palace, too. While he we can easily say that there were many easy to see that the districts had, up to the year 1900, designed in a channels and areas of use to make that l’ottoman with an orientalist/historicist entry possible. and neighborhoods where Art emphasis and approached Art Nouveau Despite the limitations and the stubborn Nouveau condenses, almost with caution, he had come up with a sticking to the pivots during the courageous and creative design in Maison Ottoman times, it is astounding to see fully overlaps with the map Botter. the similarity of the concepts, terms and words used, to those in the Art Nouveau showing the areas preferred by The building, with its oval staircase, literature. Ottoman senior officials, people stained-glass windows, interior details, the curved plan of the mezzanine to be Edebiyat-ı Cedide can be an interesting related to the palace, levantine used for fashion shows, is a work that source to point at that proximity. The overcomes the restrictions of the narrow word ‘Cedid’ (new) in its name is bourgeois, and members of the Image 3. House of Van Eetvelde, Brussel and long plot it sits on, and presents the interesting enough by itself. Edebiyat-ı foreign missions, thus showing spacial character of the Art Nouveau. vast repertoire. In this diversity, Eastern Cedide is the name of a movement in and Islamic-based orientalist formations Turkish literature, which was initiated by us the social topography It seems that Maison Botter reached dominate. Furthermore, a congestion of the like-minded people coming together of the period. beyond the fame of its owner and its styles is experienced at this time due to around the Servet-i Fünun magazine designer, to become a great influence the high number of architects coming published under the famous poet Tevfik Figure 1. Style calling with its novel form. It was no coincidence from various countries in Europe. This is Fikret (1867-1915) and lasted from 1896 architecture, with pictures. Although that the Grand Rue de Pera (today’s a time when Eclectisme and Historicisme to 1901. The active years of the movement been the women’s magazines. In addition is based, before anything else, on the pure Art Nouveau was not a focal item for Istiklal Caddesi) offers us so many Art are used in a widespread fashion in overlaps with the birth of Art Nouveau. to those coming from Europe, there number of the buildings standing. Edebiyat-ı Cedide, neither for Servet-i Nouveau buildings lining up on its Europe. Servet-i Fünun was a magazine with were women’s magazines published in Fünun, we may say that it contributed two sides. Despite all demolitions and pictures. It had run many photographs of Secondly, the monumental buildings of İstanbul as well by that time, which must developoment efforts, there are countless İstanbul architecture, which already domestic or foreign buildings, along with to the formation of an intellectual have been effective in introducing the art Art Nouveau are mostly all in İstanbul, had almost all models of Historicism the illustrations of the novels and poems environment open to the esthetics of the Nouveau tastes to the well-to-do section and most of them are under protection. represented, met Art Nouveau during it published, in addition to all the other movement. of society. Besides, the stylistic nuances of these that time. It did not happen through any vignettes and flowery decorations it used. The imported household articles sold in monumental structures, they have a club, magazine, or society that promoted A short time before the magazine folded, Another possible entry gate for the Art the luxury stores may have been another quality that form a collection and make it, though. There is no documented it ran an article on Art Nouveau and its Nouveau taste and esthetics must have channel. Some of those objects are them all more significant. today among the favorites of the antique dealers, and they must have had a big role Thirdly, though, they seem to have in the appreciation of the Art Nouveau developed their own Art Nouveau houses tastes. and decoration models in anonymous architecture, which we claim to be special İstanbul and its Art Nouveau to İstanbul. Archıtecture First examples of Art Nouveau Many designers, and even dates of architecture appeared early in the buildings are still unknown in İstanbul 20th century, in those Imperial cities Art Nouveau architecture. All we know is where trade and industry were already that professional designs were the earlier advanced. The orijinal and monumental ones, and that a transition to anonymus ones were built in such places up until architecture took place later. 1910. Among the dated Art Nouveau Like in many other ways, İstanbul is buildings in İstanbul, the earliest is the the most important Turkish city for Art Maison Botter.1 (Istiklal St. 475-77) Nouveau architecture as well, a fact that (Image 6) It was designed by Italian Image 6. Maison Botter -1900, R. D'Aronco

Image 4. Entrance of Paris Métro Image 5. La Sagrada Familia 1883, A. Gaudi 1 The interior of Maison Botter was demolished in 1962 in order to be converted into a bank-branch. The upper stories –designed to be residences for the Botter İSTANBUL family- are now vacated. Despite the fact that the building is registered as ‘protected cultural asset’ (with restoration projects already designed), it is deserted SPECIAL ISSUE 37 at the present time. 2016 palaces, summer homes, etc.), schools or took residence – the two maps almost Caracach brothers for the Hediv of Egypt, memorials, Art Nouveau designs were overlap fully. Pera, the western coast of standing at the corner of Istiklal and the used in all types and functions. Bosphorus, Yeşilköy, Moda and similar Imam İstanbul Art Nouveau shows a districts give us the Art Nouveau building The greatest input comes from R. localizations and the urban topography Adnan Street, is one that acentuates the rich diversity in its stylistic and D’Aronco. Being invited to work on the of the city. The Art Nouveau architecture decorative character of the unique bricks 1896 ‘Dersaadet Ziraat ve Sanayi Sergi-i came about as a derivative of the needs used in its structure. formal characteristics, and as Umumisi’ Project and the Art Nouveau and tastes, as well as financial means of an architectural heritage, it can design he proposed, had placed him that class of people, and consequently Evidently the İstanbul architects prefer to at the top of the list of Art Nouveau finds its form in large, impressive and bring together in their designs the Italian be conceived as a magnificent designers. Although the project never expensive buildings. floral style with the Vienneese geometry. saw the light of day (due to the 1894 Georgiadis brothers’ (Dimosthenis and collection that reflects various earthquake), it certainly is the very first As a result of the fact that Art Nouveau Stephanos) apartments at Meşrutiyet Art Nouveau design created in İstanbul. designers came from different countries Street 126, or the Karaghiannis’s work at inspirations and influences. of Europe, or that the Ottoman architects Sıraselviler 87 (transformed considerably D’Aronco’s Art Nouveau designed were trained in different academies, at later dates), take us to less known pavillions at the Yıldız Palace make a there is a rich diversity in the stylistic İstanbul Art Nouveau designers of the character. The Vlora Han (Commercial lengthy list: Küçük Mabeyn (stained-glass and formal characteristics of the Art era. The rest, are noted on a list that is Building-Sirkeci) (Image 8), could also be designs belong to Bonet), winter gardens Nouveau buildings, making the İstanbul yet unknown. The Pina Apartment on given as an example. Image 7. Şeyh Zafir Tomb, R. D'Aronco (the known three), Theater, Ceramic Art Nouveau a heritage consisting of Asmalı Mescit Street, the Kont Hotel Plant, Manege, New Harem pavillon, an impressive collection, bearing a at Mis Street 28, the one at Büyük There certainly are some fully original apartment buildings, dated to the fifties, II. Second Period: Anonymous and Local fountains (three), dovecot, Izzet Paşa variety of inspirations and influences. Parmakkapı Street 30, and the one at designs as well. A. Ratip Paşa Pavillon designed, or at least decorated in Art 1922-1930 Apartment, Chalet Pavillion, and many As an example, the İstanbul architects Sofyalı Street 7, could be added, as and the Summer Residence of the Italian Nouveau. other structures. Konstantinos Kyriakides and Alexandre probably many more could be, as well. Embassy are buildings that meet in their One can hardly fail to notice that these D. Neocomos (Yenidunia) designed Ar character of being special to İstanbul. The İstanbul Art Nouveau is by no means dates look as if they were dictated by the Outside the Palace, the important Art Apartments (Istiklal Caddesi 403, 1906, It is not easy to say that all İstanbul Art classical plan of the Residence is turned limited to the Pera. At the end of the political history of the Ottoman Empire. Nouveau buildings of d’Aronco are: and the impressive Frej Apartment could Nouveau buildings have a wholesome into an assymetric mass setup through 19th century and during the first two The First World War naturally impacted Karamustafa Paşa Mescidi (Karaköy,1903, be worth seeing, and surely the building and consistent Art Nouveau style within its Art Nouveau influence, and with the decades of the 20th century, it spread Turkey, and especially İstanbul, more demolished in 1958), Şeyh Zafir Tomb designed (as the rumor goes) by the temselves. The characteristics of Art local lines of its wide eaves and spanning itself throughout the city – although than any other country. The collapse - Library - Fountain (Beşiktaş, 1903), Nouveau, the motifs, the forms, are often buttresses, the building presents a very not with the density we see on the Pera of the Empire and the birth of a new (Image 7), Tulip Fountain (Galata), added to works that belong to other original integration with the Bosphorus – to follow the main streets all over. political identity would certainly have Tophane Fountain, Yalova Thermal design schools – as they are in Europe. landscape. In the Ratip Paşa Pavillon, The Taksim-Harbiye-Şişli axis, the area determining influence on all things. Facilities, Şakir Paşa Tomb, Damascus For example at the Hediva Emine Palace the eaves and brackett supports are used between Teşvikiye and Nişantaşı, mainly Telegraph Monument, Nazime Sultan (Bebek), Art Nouveau is together with again, but this time the eaves are not the sections that saw the highest level First Period: Professional and Yali, Memduh Paşa Pavillion, Huber the Neo-classical forms. The Janissary so wide, and they are used on top of of development efforts during the reign Monumental Construction Pavillion, Botter Houses. The Tarabya Museum and the Ministry of Agriculture balconies at different levels, changing of Abdulhamid II, should be especially 1894-1909 (1915) Summer Resort and the Italian and Mining Building show us that the traditional geometric facade and mentioned. At the later stage, the This period covers the time until the Orphanage he designed for the Italian orientalist elements can also be used accentuates the wood-carved floral motifs movement continued its relations with second proclamation of Constitutional Government are also in the Art Nouveau together with Art Nouveau. with their Art Nouveau impression. the local building traditions as it took Monarchy, when Art Nouveau style. itself to the coastal villages of Bosphorus architecture was adopted and applied by It could be said that despite this diversity Rarely do we see such examples where on the European side, to the islands in professional architects. As far as we know, In İstanbul’s Art Nouveau portfolio, in the İstanbul Art Nouveau, mainly the Art Nouveau concepts are included the Marmara Sea, and less frequently the Art Nouveau designs of this period mostly apartment building, pavillions, there are two lines that dominate it. The in plans and spaces in the form of to Üsküdar, Beylerbeyi, Kadıköy and were the work of architects who were mansions, large urban residences, first is visible in the best way at the Sheik innovations. In traditional plan drawings, Fenerbahçe. formally and academically trained, and summer resorts and office buildings are Zafir Tomb/Library, and it underlines not many changes are obverved, while the consequently these buildings possess a dominant. the massive form of the structure, use of a mezzanine floor, of floral stained- The starting date of İstanbul Art Nouveau certain professional quality. rather the geometry of it – this is the glasses, and of the metal structured glass seems to be 1900, or if the undated ones are It is easy to pick out the Art Nouveau Vienna school, with a strong Olbrich roofs that allow daylight to penetrate taken into consideration, perhaps 1898, and The fact that Art Nouveau style was dominant regions and neighborhoods influence. The Hediva Emine Palace, the interiors, remain limited to large the implementation can be studied in two used in all typological and functional in the urban localization of İstanbul. Maison Botter, even the Tulip Fountain residences or palaces. Examples are parts. categories is another indicator of the These are generally the areas where the could be included in the same group. the floral stained-glasses of the Hediv professionalism. From mosques to tombs, higher Ottoman bureaucracy, palace- The second line is a concept where the Palaces, Ratip Paşa Pavillion, and the I. First Period: Professional and Monumental fountains, museums, official buildings, related people, levantine bourgeois, Italian floral motifs come through and Ministry of Agriculture and Mining Construction 1894-1909 (1915) private residences (apartments, otels, and members of foreign missions Image 8. The Vlora Han, Sirkeci the ornamentation is of a more naturalist Building.

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 39 2016 The facades generally have their of Western, European, or cosmopolitan basement, on which rise brick walls The above characteristics are motifs symmetrical setups. Ornamentations are styles of architecture rather questionable. enveloped with wood, seem to be a and combinations that are particular mostly seen at windows, doors, balconies, The Ottoman Revivalism, referred to Whereas Art Nouveau in Europe common practice. Ornamentation is to İstanbul applications. It is therefore and similar architectural features. as ‘National Architecture’ in everyday usually of wood. possible to assume that these may define Ornamentations mostly use plaster-cast language, was coming forth, while Art was a product of a search for the İstanbul Art Nouveau Architecture. techniques (more so in monumental Nouveau movement began to decline. new uses for iron and steel, Perhaps the plans drawn do not show buildings), or stone carvings, as well The Orientalist trends, which were in significant innovations, but there is some Art Nouveau home-building of İstanbul as metals. Cast-iron or forged-iron existence since the 1860s, had taken an in the anonymus applications flexibility and some accentuations in the has spread by taking along an orientalist- windows, balconies, and garden fences Ottoman appearance and were being use of the traditional approaches. What inclined eclecticism, and after the 1930s, give us a rich reserve of patterns, with seen as an indication of the cultural in İstanbul what comes to the is important, is the free articulation of it seems to have continued for a while, models possibly taken from books. identity. This decline of Art Nouveau, and masses observed in many cases. When this time together with the Art Deco Plaster, again, tops the list of materials the wars, defeats, and depressions that forefront are the materials the topography allows, the half-level concept, until finally it was replaced by used for interior decorations. Ceramics followed it, led to a void not only in Art relation is made use of in order to bring the Modernist waves. and wall-paper are imported materials we Nouveau, but in all of the architecture, and the techniques, involving some action to the facade – hexagonal often see in Art Nouveau buildings. The just like in everything else as well. authentic lines. protrusions and octagonal corner towers metal workmanship used for flights of (which do not exist in an Ottoman house) stairs are brilliant examples we encounter Second Period: Anonymus should be underlined. The positioning of mostly in the rich and monumental and Local 1922-1930 districts, like Sarıyer/Büyükdere, Yeniköy, the balconies, and the increase in their buildings. As life re-started after the War of Arnavutköy (Images 9, 10, 11), Bakırköy, numbers, sizes, and decorations are also Independence, Art Nouveau seems to Yeşilköy, Moda/Mühürdar/Bahariye, Yel characteristics of this phase. The July 1909 rebellion that dethroned revive and continue its journey from değirmeni, and the Islands. Remarkably, Abdulhamid II caused an interruption where it left off. The works that appeared Image 10. Dikranyan House, Kireçburnu Art Nouveau exists strongly in districts Facades usually have a stylistic of Art Nouveau applications, at least in in the first decade of Art Nouveau, had changed and many of the former names like Göztepe/Erenköy which have a more consistency. As opposed to the eclectic official or monumental buildings. The created a set of habits and inclinations left İstanbul – which may have been one homogenours population; in fact, some appliations of İstanbul Art Nouveau, Jeuns Turc Movement which defined with the help of household items, as well of the factors for a transition to take place writers call the İstanbul Art Nouveau as the anonymous architecture has more national identity in terms of their as of the newspapers and magazines. towards anonymus architecture. ‘The Erenköy Style’. homogenous and authentic lines. nationalistic ideology, found the adoption The avant-garde had begun to seep from The Art Nouveau buildings of this The adornement stock on the facades higher cultures to the middle classes, and In this second phase, Art Nouveau phase usually have two or three stories, are parallel to the Ottoman civillian – despite the war-related interruption – architecture mostly used traditional and sometimes four. An elevated stone architecture principles, using certain the Art Nouveau tastes had spread from construction techniques and materials. architectural elements for decoration. upper-middle to lower-middle classes. As mentioned before, the Art Nouveau in Europe had developed out of the need to Ornamentation reflects the Jugenstil The Second Period is characterised find new uses for the iron-steel materials, inspiration and lines, assymetric within with Art Nouveau being adopted by the rather than as a tradition of architecture. itself, also floral, but their attachment to middle classes and the spread of Art Whereas in İstanbul (like in Russia and the building has a geometric discipline. Nouveau architecture to home-building the Balkan countries), the traditional It seems obvious that many of the motifs efforts. materials and techniques were in the or motif groups were produced using forefront. The most important example familiar molds. The houses of the middle classes are of this, is the A. Ratip Paşa mansion, or generally developed by anonymous palace, designed by Architet Kemalettin, Colour is rarely used in İstanbul Art architecture. Rather than professionally where steel, glass and wood were Nouveau. Other than the balcony trained architects, it is the builders who used side by side, but with traditional parapets being painted, and in the have not been formally trained, that rose technologies. This building is known stained-glasses in some cases, colour through apprenticeship and practice that for its wood-carved decorations. Such is mostly used in glasses of doors that represent this architecture, consequently examples must have been a guide to local separate vestibules, balconies, landings it is closely bound by some defined builders in their use of wood for Art from the living areas. The most common building techniques and materials, as well Nouveau. practice is to have glass in the upper part as some patterns of taste and preference. of a door, which contains small squares At the end of a two decade process, the The Art Nouveau buildings of this of glass in all different colours. Pasting Art Nouveau architecture also seems to second phase seem to have spread to picture-papers or transparent papers have acquired such stylistic frames. larger areas of İstanbul. Up to the 1950s, on the glass is another way (simple and nearly all districts of İstanbul had Art cheaper, certainly) for colouring up a With the dethroning of Abdulhamid Nouveau buildings. A map of density space. Image 9. Arnavutköy II, the group of palace architects were would underline the more cosmopolitan Image 11. The Hunters Club, Arnavutköy

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 41 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

Prof. Dr. Sait Başaran Zeynep Sevim Kızıltan The ARCHAEOLOGY of the HISTORIC PENINSULA, İstanbul University, Faculty of Turkish Language and Literature, İstanbul Archaeological Museums, Department of Conservation and Repair of Movable Cultural Properties. Director. [email protected] [email protected] a WORLD HERITAGE SITE Introduction Empire and was located on the shore of the 4th until the 7th century. However, it lost culture layer unearthed two probably 18th crosssections in the excavation area, the The archaeological finds of recent years The rescue excavations made city facing Propontis (the Marmara Sea) its function significantly after Egypt was century vegetable garden wells damaged in impact of the earthquake that took place in İstanbul have provided significant in a bay with big indentation into the land taken over by Arabs in 641 AD, marking part due to the structures constructed in in 553 AD and the tsunami waves that information about the history of mankind. during the construction of founded most probably during the reign the end of grain shipment from Egypt. The the upper layers and the stone walls of the followed the earthquake were seen in the The tools found in the archaeological of Emperor Theodosius I (379-395)1. The Eastern Mediterranean Egyptian amphorae wells had been supported with wood; there sediment stack No. 4⁶. In addition, the excavations carried out in the Yarımburgaz Marmaray – Subway Project existence of the granaries such as Horrea dating back to the 4th-7th centuries AD were also numerous water wells, various southern winds referred to as “fugitive” that Cave proved that the cave had been used – at the Yenikapı (Theodosios Theodosiana known to be located in the and the Palestinian amphorae dating back ceramics and metal objects unearthed.⁴ start all of a sudden in the Marmara Sea in as a settlement in the Pleistocene Epoch eastern end of the harbor indicates that to the 4th-6th centuries AD found during summer could have also caused the boats during the Lower Paleolithic Age. These Port) and Sirkeci train station this was a large commercial port visited by excavations are high in number; however Shipwrecks to sink⁷. A thick sea sand layer has covered finds also revealed that the human traces vessels coming from Alexandria or other the fact that the finds dating back to the 7th The scope of the archaeological excavations the ships that had sunk in the storm in found in the Yarımburgaz Cave were as areas, has changed the places to unload grain and other materials. and 8th centuries being few in number also carried out within the Yenikapı Harbor question. old as 400,000 years. The finds not only city’s history, and gave us supports this view2. The western part of the area has been extended after remnants revealed that it was the oldest settlement Located in Yenikapı today, the excavations harbor was filled with the debris brought of ropes and wood had been found at a The existence of a high number of area in the Near East known to date but valuable, original and amazing that were initiated 3 meters above sea level by the Lykos Creek but the eastern part was depth of around 1 meter below sea level amphorae and artefacts of the Archaic, also supported the idea that it had fulfilled were completed by going down to the used for some more time. The harbor was and 37 shipwrecks of different types and Classical and Early Hellenistic Period an important role in settlement in the information about its past. Miocene layer, the geological structure used by small vessels and fishing boats until sizes were found dated to the 5th to the dated to the 6th to 4th BC found on the European continent. In addition to the of the area, changing between 10 to 10,5 the 11th century AD. As the piling debris 11th century. These are considered to be stone fill on the base of the harbor gave the excavations carried out in Fikirtepe, Pendik meters below sea level. Within the cultural filled almost the whole harbor towards the the world’s largest Middle Age shipwreck idea that the commercial boats operating and Tuzla settlements, the surface survey surprising information about the history of layer of 13,5 meters of thickness, the end of the 12th century, it was used only collection. The shipwrecks have survived between the colony cities established by carried out in Ağaçlı and Gümüşdere the city (Image 1). cultural layers of the Ottoman, Byzantine by small shipment vessels and fishermen to date as the Theodosian Harbor, one the shore of the Black Sea and the other sand areas by the Black Sea coasts, the and Neolithic Periods were identified. involved in coastal fishery. The whole port of the city’s largest trade centers, lost its city states established in the Aegean Region areas surrounding Domalı, Yeşilköy, the Yenikapı Salvage Excavations The finds in the harbor dated back to the was filled with debris and Jewish people function due to sedimentation caused by used the Theodosian Harbor, a deep and Ayamama Stream and the Çekmece Lake The Theodosian Harbor Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and Roman involved in tannery business were placed the Lykos Creek and became part of the well-protected bay, under bad weather and Selimpaşa as well as in Ümraniye The Theodosian Harbor was one of the periods. in the harbor in the second half of the land. The shipwrecks provide significant conditions. and Dudullu have provided significant most important harbors of the Byzantine The harbor was used actively from the 13th century. The area was allocated as information about the vessel typologies, information about the prehistoric times of a vegetable garden after the conquest of vessel construction technology of the The 37 shipwrecks unearthed to date in the İstanbul. İstanbul3. Byzantine times and the evolution of these Yenikapı Harbor excavations were dated technologies. to the Early and Middle Byzantine period. İstanbul is a special city from a cultural The harbor area was sold to Armenians and These shipwrecks are important not only history point of view due to its privileged Turkish Greeks in the 18th century; part The 37 shipwrecks were handed over to for constituting a large ship collection but and unique location. The city is located on of the walls was knocked down during the relevant institutions for conservation also for having been preserved and have the natural transit road of the Near East railway construction in the 19th century and reconstruction work following the survived to date in a state easy to define. and Anatolian cultures and the Balkan and the coastal road was built in the 20th completion of archaeological excavations The wooden articles of the ships were found and the Thrace culture and has been a century. and initial documentation⁵. The researchers in their original positions and this has popular stopover place of the Silk Road working on these shipwrecks have got given the opportunity to get an idea about and the Spice Road coming from the Far The Ottoman Period different ideas about the reasons why the their original hull shapes as well as floor East since prehistoric times. Its location The excavation carried out in the south shipwrecks dated to different centuries and frame curves. The veneers rising up to on the crossroads of the seas connecting of Zone One in Yenikapı revealed a were found in the harbor and state that hulls and bulwarks in most of the vessels the Black Sea Basin to the Aegean and the structure group consisting of various they might have sunk in the harbor due to provide detailed information to researchers Mediterranean world has paved the way for spaces dating to the Ottoman Period built a natural disaster such as a heavy storm or working on vessel design and construction the city to serve as the capital of the Eastern with undimensional stones using muddy tsunami. One of the ideas most defended techniques. Roman and the Ottoman Empires covering mortar in some parts, khorasan mortar is that some of the boats might have been a large geography including different in other parts and cement mortar in later abandoned in the harbor as they had The Yenikapı shipwrecks include not only continents (Europe, Asia and Africa) periods as well as a cistern in the eastern already completed their life cycles. The the cargo vessels known as “round vessel” through its cultural, social and artistic end dating probably to the 20th century. scientists working on the harbor have but also different examples of medium and relations. The excavation carried out in the Ottoman stated that within the nine stratigraphic small size boats and fishing boats involved 2 Asal 2007: 155. 3 Berger 1994: 263; for detailed information see Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 265 vd. The salvage excavations carried out in 4 Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 265. Yenikapı (Theodosian Harbor) and the 5 The 37 shipwrecks in the harbor were handed over to the relevant experts of 2 universities for the completion of documentation and moving procedures, conservation and reconstruction Sirkeci train stations within the scope of work and delivery to the museum within the scope of the permits taken from and the protocols signed with the Ministry of Culture and Tourism after the completion of archaelogical excavations and initial documentation by the experts of the İstanbul Archaeology Museums. The documentation and moving of 29 of those shipwrecks and the conservation and Marmaray - Metro project have changed reconstruction work of 33 of those shipwrecks were carried out by Prof. Dr Sait Başaran and his team, Head of İstanbul University Department of Conservation and Repair of Movable significantly what was known about the Cultural Properties and after he retired, by Assoc. Prof. Ufuk Kocabaş and his team within the scope of “Yenikapı Shipwrecks Project” . (Kocabaş, 2008; Kocabaş - Türkmenoğlu, 2009; history of the city based on legends and Kocabaş, 2010; Özsait - Kocabaş, 2010); Kocabaş 2012, 25-35; Özsait - Kocabaş 2013, 37-46; the documentation and moving of 8 boats and the conservation and reconstruction of 4 boats Image 1. General View of Yenikapı were carried out by the President of Bodrum Institute of Nautical Archaeology (INA) and Texas A&M University Faculty Member Assoc. provided very valuable, original and 6 Perinçek, 2010: 131-135. 7 Kocabaş 2010: 23-33.

1 Dirimtekin 1953: 59; Müller Wiener 2003: 8; Başaran 2012: 9; Kızıltan 2014: 57-59; Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 265 vd. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 45 2016 been preserved to date. There were many unbroken amphorae and broken pieces of amphorae inside the shipwreck. A section The archaeological research that contained articles of daily use probably showed us that the Historical used by the captain was found close to the stern. Earthenware braziers, jugs, pots, Peninsula, known for its cultural glasses as well as two small amphorae different from the usual cargo of the vessel tiers from Ottoman, Byzantine and cherry stones inside a whisket were found in this section. The ship’s ladder and Neolitic times, actually had and the starboard hull of the shipwreck have survived to date. Its preserved length been a significant settlement is 6,2 meters and the widest part of the hull is 1,90 meters. Its original length is area during the pre-historic around 8 meters and the width of its hull is periods, and presented to us 2,5 meters. It dates back to 672 – 870 AD according to C14 analyses. The daily use important data pointing at articles preserved to date and the cherry stones found in the shipwreck indicate an uninterrupted history of that the vessel had sunk due to a summer storm11 (Image 3). settlements.

The fourth vessel inside the harbor that had these stones 43,5 meters of which were sunk with its cargo is the shipwreck YK discovered during the excavations. The 12 35 . A total of 127 Crimean type amphorae, dendrochronological analyses carried wooden and earthenware kitchen pots, out on the samples taken from the posts oil lamps, bottles of fragrance, vessel showed that the pier had been used equipment, wooden locks and a weight box between 527 - 610 AD and had been were found inside the interior coverings repaired between 539 - 591 AD14. The dock of the boat stacked side by side and back located to the west of the pier and stretching to back as a whole or in different sizes that in the north-south direction 25,5 meters could be brought together. Based on the of which was identified built of two rows initial finds, it was found out that it was a of large stone blocks has got a width of Image 2. Galley commercial open sea sailboat dating back 2,80 meters. Part of the Theodosian walls to the 5th century. 13 (Image 4) constructed of dimension stone and bricks in coastal seamanship. There is also a been identified and it dates back to the 10th alternately constituting the western end of galley with six oars that is very unique and century (Image 2). Yenikapı Plot No. 100 Excavation Work the harbor were unearthed. The walls to the referred to as “long ship”. These galleys are The architectural finds unearthed during southwest continue in the east direction by the very first examples of the type dated to Situated close to shipwreck YK 1, the the excavations carried out in the western turning a corner. The 54 meters long section the Byzantine period. shipwreck YK 3⁹ is a medium scale cargo part of the harbor, Area No. 2 referred to of the wall stretching in the westward vessel. Its existing length is 9,12 m and the as “Plot No. 100” and Area No. 3 in the direction and made of proper dimension Boat YK 1 (Yenikapı 1)⁸ is a small scale width of its hull is 2,28 m. It is estimated eastern part of the harbor, have provided stones of 4,40 meters width plastered with commercial vessel constructed of very that the full length of the vessel was around significant information about the harbor. Khorasan mortar right underneath the robust and rigid iron oak also known as the 18 meters and its hull was around 6 meters. Intertwined architectural finds covering corner was followed and bronze coins Turkish oak. The cargo of the vessel and the The vessel dates back to 668 – 840 AD different periods from the 4th until the dating back to the period of Constantinus two iron anchors inside the vessel indicate according to C14 analyses. 13th century were unearthed during the I (324 – 337 AD) were found around the that it was not abandoned but had sunk at excavations carried out in this area. The walls. The technique used to construct the its berth at the harbor. It was estimated that Shipwreck YK 12 is a commercial boat10 important remnants of Plot No. 100 are wall and the coins found indicate that the the original length of the shipwreck was 10 and is especially important among the the breakwater, the dock stones and the wall was constructed in the 4th century and meters and only 6,5 meters of the vessel has Yenikapı shipwrecks as its original cargo has wooden thick and frequent posts before could be part of the Constantinus walls15.

8 It was documented on the field by Cemal Pulak and his team between August 2005-January 2006. One of the important architectural finds 9 It was documented on the field by Ufuk Kocabaş and his team between 26 May 2006 - 05 July 2006 and moved. Image 3. YK 12 unearthed in this area is the vaulted brick 10 This boat was documented on the field by Ufuk Kocabaş and his team and moved. 11 Kocabaş 2010: 29; Özsait - Kocabaş 2012: 103; Kocabaş, Özsait - Kocabaş, 2013, 43, 48-55; Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 268-271. 12 YK 35 was documented by Ufuk Kocabaş and his team and was moved. 14 Kuniholm - Pearson - Wazny 2014: 156. 13 Özsait - Kocabaş 2013: 41 15 Gökçay 2007, 168-173; Kızıltan 2014: 59. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 47 2016 Image 4. Vessel YK 35 that sank with its cargo Image 5. Plot No. 100 Ruins structure dated as the 4th century due to The 200 piers unearthed in Yenikapı are Age, of the Toptepe Culture specific to huts stretching in the northwest-southeast common walls. The sizes of the rectangular the high number of oil lamps found inside some of the proofs of the Theodosian the Northern Marmara shores. However, direction and side by side forming groups. and square spaces were 5x5 m, 3x3 m or and only 11 meters part of this structure Harbor that have survived to date. Two Findings of the Theodosios this cultural layer was not detected in the smaller and the bearing elements were has been excavated to date. This vaulted of the piers are made of stone and the Port area (existence of storage excavations carried out within the harbor. Most of the architecture is quadrilateral made of wood. structure of 1,80 meters of height and 1,60 remaining ones are made of wood. The Therefore, it could be that these pottery and the remaining part has got a round meters of width the top part of which is results of the dendrochronological analyses buildings, an important number could have come inside the harbor via sea plan. The structures were built attached to The finds of Neolithic architecture in covered with bricks and the lower part carried out on the samples taken from from somewhere outside the harbor. one another and there were traces found in Yenikapı consisted of not only scattered of which is made of dimension stones is the wooden pier posts in the north-south of piers, and remains of sunken some of the quadrilateral structures with stone foundations but also traces of posts thought to have been used as a sewer16. direction showed that the construction of The Neolithic layer was unearthed in the The vaulted cover of one of the four the piers had started at the beginning of the vessels) point to this place excavations carried out in the western chambers of the vaulted quadrilateral 5th century. part of Zone 1 at a depth of 6,30 meters hypoge (sepulcher) in the shape of a fish being a large and significant below sea level with rows of stones that had been planned different from the stone fill scale of 3,50 x 1,20 m of size has survived One of the stone piers is in the northeast part of the Metro excavation area and the commercial port during the at the base of the harbor, pieces of burnt to date. The structure was dated as a 12th other one is in the northwest part. The mudbricks scattered and handmade pottery. century structure due to the finds at the pier in the northeast is in the southwest- Classical Antique Period. When the architectural and other finds of foundation level and the technique of northeast direction and consists of five this layer were compared with the pottery hidden brickwork on stone used (Image 5). legs following one another. The one in the end of the 8th century or the beginning of and small find groups of the Marmara southwest end is pentagonal and the four the 9th century18 (Image 7-8). Region including the Yenikapı excavation Church Ruins legs placed towards the northeast direction area and especially of the Fikirtepe and The church unearthed in the northwest are quadrilateral. The total identified length Yarımburgaz excavations known as the part, i.e. the metro section of the Yenikapı of the legs is 32,50 meters. The pier rising Yenikapı in the Neolithic Neolithic Age cultures of İstanbul, they excavation area, was constructed during the on top of the wooden molds seen in the Period were found to be very similar to one 12th – 13th century when the debris started foundation is surrounded by marble and In the excavations carried out in the eastern another19. to fill the harbor. The ruins of 9,50 x 11,45 limestone blocks and the interior part are and western parts of Zone 1 in Yenikapı, meters of size in the east-west direction filled up by khorasan mortar and pieces there were pots and jugs with different Neolithic Architecture was based on a single apse when it was first of stone. The legs erected in intervals characteristics in terms of surface treatment The partially scattered rows of stones that used, but one nave of simple stonework are connected to one another by arches. and forms compared to the artefacts found are different from the stone fill at the harbor was added to its northern and southern The results of the dendrochronological within the harbor at different depths bottom detected at 6,30 meters below sea sides turning it into a structure with three analyses carried out on the wood used for ranging from 5 meters below sea level to level under today’s sea level in the southwest apses. 22 graves were found in original form the construction of the pier as well as on 5,80 meters. The initial examinations led part of the excavation area within the inside and around the church17 (Image 6). the archaeological articles found nearby archaeologists to think that these pieces Zone 1 of Yenikapı excavations proved the Piers showed that it had been constructed at the could be the remnants of the Chalcolithic existence of a settlement here consisting of Image 6. Church Ruins 16 Gökçay 2007: 174; Kızıltan 2010: 5; Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 272 vd. 19 Gökçay 2007: 166-179; Kızıltan 2010: 1-16; Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 276 vd. 17 Gökçay 2007: 174 vd.; Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 273. 18 Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 274-275. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 49 2016 pottery groups. Especially all of the gift pots defined. mammals, the lower leg bones and the in whole or almost in whole found in the metacarpi of sheeps and goats were used for cremation cemeteries in the eastern part of Two wooden canoe oars (1,35 meters tools fashioned out of bones and the tools the excavation area are within this group. and 1,13 meters of length) of good made of horns were made of deer horns. These pots are generally round type with craftsmanship at 6,60 meters below sea level thread hole handle jugs, deep bowls and were found next to the water bed detected Flintstones are high in number within stone decorated pots20. in the south of the settlement dated to the tools. Flintstone tools amount to 42,9% of Fikirtepe Culture. There were also two the excavation inventory whereas grinding wooden pieces of arch, a maul used to hunt Neolithic Age Finds stone tools amount to 13,3%. Sharp objects small animals and a wooden tool similar There are 35 worked wooden finds in and scrapers are high in number under the to a boomerang found in the water bed. flintstone tool groups. The characteristic the excavation inventory of the Metro There were also two wooden bowls found finds of the period could be listed as blades and Marmaray excavations constituting in different parts of the area and a figurine 5,1% of the whole excavation inventory. the period of the Fikirtepe Culture of which of various sizes, scrapers the edges of The fact that the Yenikapı Excavation has not been possible to identify for the first which had been smoothed using the print Neolithic Age I finds have been preserved time (Image 11). technique, piercing tools and prismatic to date under seawater inside loam in an blader kerns21. anaerobic environment is very significant A few characteristic tool groups stand out for Turkish and world archaeology. Some in bone finds. These are mostly flattening Yenikapı Neolithic Period Burials of the wooden finds are tools as shown objects defined as handle, piercing, spatula A simple earthenware sepulcher thought Image 7. Stone Pier below and some of them are worked wood and muller as well as figurines and a small to belong to a family was found at around the function of which has not been clearly number of spoons. The long bones of big 6,51-6,73 meters below sea level right on the basis of which were supported with daub architecture on the north-south axis the shore of a water bed in the south of stones squeezed with mud. The wattle and so there is no doubt that they had some the settlement. There are four skeletons daub architecture found in the north of the footwear on as they look very proper. It two of which are adults in hocker position excavation area within a river bed at 8,40 / is highly probable that the footwear used in Sepulcher No. 1 (Image 12). The adult 8,75 meters below sea level probably turned was made of leather or a similar organic skeleton in the lower altitude was found down or demolished are not only similar to material. However, there were also traces of laid on a wooden tool of 1 meter length of the wattle and daub architecture tradition barefoot found although few. The smallest good craftsmanship one edge of which is of the Marmara and the Thrace regions but of the footprints (2,080 in total) is 15,9 cm sharp and the other edge of which is in the have also shown that the wattle and daub from toe to heel and the largest one is 28,9 shape of a fork. No skull bones other than architecture tradition of Northwest Anatolia cm (Image 10). the lower jaw of the adult skeleton on the and the Thrace continued in the Yenikapı upper layer were found. Therefore, it must settlement (Image 9). Since some of the Pottery have been that the dead on the upper layer pottery parts found inside and around the In addition to the artefacts that were must have been buried a little after the other settlement are quite similar to those found included in the excavation inventory of three. Other than the pieces of large bowl in Fikirtepe, it indicates that this settlement the Neolithic Period in the Marmaray on one of the child skeletons, there are four pots of different sizes similar to the classic in Yenikapı is of the same period with some Excavation, a total of 15,833 pottery pieces Fikirtepe pots left as gifts (Image 13). of the periods of Fikirtepe. were examined and it was found that these were very similar to the pottery found in Sepulcher No.2 was identified in the east of The first and a very important find group Fikirtepe and Yarımburgaz. The pottery the excavation area by the eastern shore of for Anatolian architecture was found finds unearthed in the Yenikapı excavations the river bed in the north-south direction at in the west end of this wattle and daub and that belonged to the Fikirtepe Culture 7,60 meters below sea level with two pieces architecture at 8,15 meters below sea level had also finds of the Archaic and the of wooden cover. The skeleton was laid in in an area of 8 x 20 meters stretching in Classical Periods, that’s why the Yenikapı the northeast-southwest direction on a grill the north-south direction. The footprints Excavation Fikirtepe pottery finds group made of two horizontal and five vertical of the pottery using Neolithic Age people has been defined under two groups as pieces of wood which must have been on the clay surface filled up with river Archaic and Classical Fikirtepe. used for carrying the dead and was buried sand came to daylight. The footprints of together. It was understood that the pot people walking on wet clay surface were There were artefacts found similar to those with the thread hole handle at the fingertip covered fast with sand and the traces have of the advanced Fikirtepe pottery group of the skeleton was a second sepulcher22. survived to date intact. The traces were materials defined as the 4th period of Image 9. Wattle and Daub Architectural Ruins All of the pots as well as this pot found in Image 8. Wooden Pier found in the western part of the wattle and Yarımburgaz in addition to the Fikirtepe

20 Gökçay 2007: 166-179; Kızıltan 2010: 1-16; Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 276 vd. 21 Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 280 - 281. 22 Yılmaz 2011: 283-302; 2014: 265-267. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 51 2016 Image 11. Wooden Figurine excavations in Sirkeci were carried out in The Great Palace Excavation covering and mosaic, the Khalke Pule27 four different areas: in Cağaloğlu, inside The excavations were carried out in where (the Bronze Gate) of 6,20 meters of width the Train Station, in the south of the Train the Old Darulfunun (university) building opening to the Augusteion Square, the Station and in Hocapaşa. All of these areas was as well as in the garden and vaults of the main entrance of the Great Palace, marble are located in the east of the train station Sultanahmet Prison. The upper jaw of one covered niches and remnants of various today on the shore of the Prosphorianos structures were unearthed. Harbor25. Remnants of the Ottoman Period of the serpent heads of the bronze wreathed were found on the upper layer whereas column situated in the Hippodrome during The excavations carried out in the garden the remnants of Byzantine Period were the construction of the Old Darulfunun of the Former Sultanahmet Prison found in lower layers. However, it has not building and the base with an inscription unearthed the remnants of a street of 48 been possible to reach at architectural of the silver sculpture of Eudoksia, the meters of length and 4 meters of width integrity in the architectural remnants wife of Emperor Arcadius (395 – 409), with Byzantine structure remnants on found in cultural layers in question since were unearthed during the excavations. In both sides. The vaulted structure is also a the excavation areas were not large. The addition to the structure remnants dated to mosaic remnants unearthed in Cağaloğlu home for wall remnants of the Ottoman and the architectural remnants dated to the Byzantine period and bases with marble and the Byzantine times the walls of which

Image 10. Footprints the Byzantine and Ottoman Periods are interesting. The excavations carried out the sepulcher are similar to those found in The second group is represented by an addition to the Neolithic Culture remnants inside the Train Station indicated that this Fikirtepe (Image 14). example, bones of a secondary sepulcher unearthed in the Yenikapı excavations, the area was a ceramic production workshop of an individual not yet an adult were Attika, the Aegean islands, the Western in the 13th – 14th century due to the tripod The top of the sepulcher discovered in found inside a medium size pot. The third Anatolia and the Eastern Mediterranean undercoated or glazed ceramics in large the east of the Yenikapı metro excavation is cremation and three different cremation finds of the Archaic Period dated to the quantities, pieces of ceramics as workshop area at 7,25 meters below sea level was examples were found. foundation years of Byzantion (first half of waste and a round structure remnant that also covered with wood (Image 15). There the 7th century BC) are also proofs of the could be a cinder or a furnace found inside were also posts erected around the skeleton A total of eight skeletons five of which were continuity of settlement and commercial the Byzantine fill. Remnants representing 24 of an adult laid down in hocker position adults were unearthed in four sepulchers relations . the historical process from the 7th century in the southwest-northeast position. in Yenikapı. Three of these were female and BC to date in the eastern axis in the south 23 Approximately around 100 meters east one was male . The distinguishing feature Of the archaeological remnants in the area, of the Sirkeci Train Station were unearthed. of the sepulchers is the use of wood. of the settlement area, seven inside-the- the Theodosian Walls setting the borders in Pieces of imported vase dating to the pot cremation sepulchers unknown for the west and the part of the Constantinus 7th to the 5th century BC manufactured the Anatolian Neolithics Age and two There were architectural traces, various Walls unearthed during the archaeological using the black and red figure technique, cremation holes in which bodies were burnt earthenware pots, flintstones, bones, excavation in the Plot No. 100 area, the and bones were left inside were found on wooden pieces and sepulchers found inside vaulted brickwork remnant, the hypoge glassware, stamped amphorae handles as the platform left underneath the mud fill the Neolithic layer. The types of sepulchers, known for its vault in the shape of fish scale proof of trade with various cities constitute (Image 16). 38 beads made of the shells of traditions of burial, wooden housing and other remnants provide significant a large group. The excavations carried out shellfish were found among burnt bones; types and hundreds of footprints are the information about the Early Byzantine in Hocapaşa unearthed architectural and 37 of them were small and one of them was very first examples known in the Neareast Period wall construction methods. ceramic remnants of various Ottoman and larger than others. archaeology. The pottery unearthed during Byzantine Periods. The marble woman a foundation excavation carried out in Excavations in Sirkeci head and the ceramics of the Roman times There were three different types of dead Çarşıkapı on the Historic Peninsula dated to The excavations carried out in Sirkeci were unearthed during the drilling in the burials in the Yenikapı Neolithic Age the Prehistoric Period has also proven that within the scope of the Marmaray Project basement of the Tax Office26 (Image 17). settlements. The first of these is the burial of the Historic Peninsula was an important have provided significant information Image 12. Mass Burial bodies inside the holes dug in the ground. settlement area in the prehistoric times. In about the cultural history of İstanbul. The 28 Denker - Yağcı - Akay 2007: 126-141 and relevant notes 25 Müller Wiener 2001: 57; 2003: 5; Kızıltan 2014: 69-72. 23 For detailed information see Kızıltan - Başaran 2015: 282-283; Yılmaz 2011: 301; 2014: 260-269. 26 For detailed information see 2007: 98-105; for glass finds see Özgümüş 2010: 121-134. 24 For trade during Byzantine period see Asal 2007: 180 vd.; 2010: 153-156. 27 Müller Wiener 2002, 230 vd. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 53 2016 were decorated with frescos. The examples the houses of the senior state officials, of Phrygians, Eastern Greek, Corinthian ‘gymnasia’ and cisterns were and the most and Attika ceramics unearthed in the important bath structure of the area was excavations carried out in the Great Palace the Akhilleus Bath close to Strategion. area and those unearthed in the excavation However, nothing from these structures has carried out in the garden of the Former survived to date. Sultanahmet Prison are similar to each other and reflect the historic continuity of There was a piece of earthenware jug dated settlement in this area from 7th century BC to the Late Chalcolithic Age in a foundation to date28. excavation close to the Merzifonlu Mustafa Paşa Tomb in Çarşıkapı. There Evaluation were also stoneware painted in black and The Historic Peninsula is surrounded an Attika type piece of stela dated to the by the Golden Horn which is a natural 4th century BC in the same area. The harbor, the Marmara Sea Walls to the necropolis was expanded to cover the east and south and the grandiose walls to district between Vezneciler and Zeyrek the west the construction of which was as the population increased during the initiated by Emperor Theodosius at the Roman Period and this has been proven beginning of the 5th century. The World by the sarcophagi and grave structures Heritage Site Historic Peninsula has been unearthed in the excavations carried out in Image 13. Gifts to Dead People a settlement area since the prehistoric 1960 in Unkapanı. This thesis was further ages with Byzantion established by the supported by the discovery of two marble example of the Roman architecture. colonists from Megara in the middle of sarcophagi covers with Medusa description the 7th century BC till the Ottoman and on them dated to the 2nd century during The sarcophagi unearthed in areas close Turkish Republic times. For this reason, the road reorganization work close to the to the walls have provided information most of the remnants of the Prehistoric, entrance of the İstanbul University Main that served as complementary to the Greek, Hellenistic and Roman times are still Building. The foundation excavations information available about how the city waiting to be brought to daylight and given carried out to construct the Municipal had spread during the Roman times. One of the urban fabric of today, it is impossible Palace in 1953 unearthed the floor covering the sarcophagi has been defined as a family to unearth them. However, information mosaics of probably a Roman villa. At the sarcophagus as it consists of two parts and and documents about the structures of entrance of Forum Tauri was the triumphal a flat cover. The cover of the other one has Byzantion have been –partially – provided arch with three separate arches dedicated got large acroteria and a medusa embossing Image 14. Sepulcher with wooden layout and pot Image 15. Sepulcher with Wooden Cover 29 by the excavations carried out within the to Emperor Theodosius I (379 – 395) the on the triangle section of its short side . scope of the Marmaray project in recent remnants of which have survived to date. The stone masonry wall remnant unearthed years, the cultural remnants found during According to the restitution, the Triumphal in the excavation carried out in 1999 on the foundation excavations in various parts Arc was a spectacular structure of 34 meters the Süleymaniye Uzunçarşı Street and the of the Historic Peninsula and from ancient of height and 7 meters of width with the wall remnant with dimension stonework resources (especially from the Middle Age arch in the middle large and the arches at unearthed in the excavation on the map resources). sides small and each and every arch was section of Vakıf Bank in the Beyazıt Square on four columns. The Jupiter Temple was have also witnessed the expansion of The area that is home for the Topkapı to the northeast of this area surrounded by settlement during the Roman Empire. Palace and Hagia Sophia today that had marble civil and public buildings including formed the very core of Byzantion was porticos with columns, churches and baths. Emperor Konstantinus I declared the city the acropolis of the city in Ancient Ages. The remnants in question indicate that the as the new capital in 330 AD and brought According to written sources, there were city developed around the Mese Road since senators, senior officials and nobels from several temples in Akropolis. These sources the Early Roman Period. Rome to increase the Roman population in also tell about an agora with the sculpture the city and initiated development activities. of Helios surrounded by four galleries with A significant section of the Valence The Roman Empire divided into two in columns. The Greek author Ksenophon structure, one of the oldest monuments 395 AD and the city was reconstructed as (5th cenntury-4th century BC) tells about survived to date in İstanbul and known as the administrative center of the Roman a large square referred to as Thrakion. It the Bozdoğan Aquaduct, is inside this area. Empire in the east under the name of is known that to the north of this square This aquaduct dated to the Late Roman- Konstantinopolis / Neo Rome and the was the district called Strategion where Early Byzantine Period is a very impressive population of the city increased rapidly and

Image 16. Cremation Pots (Urns) 29 Kızıltan - Saner 2011: 34. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 55 2016 expanded beyond the Konstantinus walls at Sultanahmet Kazıları, edited by Z. Kızıltan, Hikayeler, Yenikapı’nın Batıkları, Vehbi Koç the beginning of the 5th century. The city Vehbi Koç Vakfı, İstanbul, p. 166-179. Vakfı, İstanbul, p. 37-46. that had grown in size was divided into 14 Gyllius, P., (1997), İstanbul’un Tarihi Kuniholm, P. I., Pearson, C. L. and Wazny, administrative sections. Eserleri, translated by E. Özbayoğlu, T., (2014), Yenikapı ile Diğer Marmaray The local research conducted in the ancient İstanbul. Proje Alanlarında Dendrokronoloji Araştırmaları, Hayalden Gerçeğe Bir city of Byzantion spanning over a large Kızıltan, Z., (2010), Marmaray ve Metro Projeleri Kapsamında Yapılan Yenikapı İstanbul Öyküsü Marmaray, Gama Holding, geography have revealed significant data Ankara, p. 154-159. not only on the topography but also on the Sirkeci ve Üsküdar Kazıları, edited by U. Kocabaş, İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri Müller Wiener, W., (2003), Bizans’tan continuity of the settlement history of the 1. Marmaray-Metro Kurtarma Kazıları Osmanlı’ya İstanbul Limanları, translated by city. Sempozyumu Bildirileri: 5-6 May 2008, E. Özbek, İstanbul. İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri, İstanbul, p. Müller Wiener, W., (2001), İstanbul’un References 1-16. Tarihsel Topoğrafyası, translated by Ü. Asal, R., (2007), İstanbul Ticareti ve Kızıltan, Z., (2011), Yenikapı Kurtarma Sayın, İstanbul. Theodosius Limanı, Gün Işığında Kazılarında Bulunan Neolitik Döneme Ait Özgümüş, Ü., (2010), Marmaray Sirkeci İstanbul’un 8000 Yılı, Marmaray, Metro, Ahşap Bir Figürin, TÜBA-AR 14, p. 305- Kurtarma Kazıları Cam Buluntularının Sultanahmet Kazıları, edited by Z. Kızıltan, 308. Değerlendirilmesi, İstanbul Arkeoloji Vehbi Koç Vakfı, İstanbul, p. 180-189. Kızıltan, Z., (2014), Marmaray-Metro Müzeleri 1. Marmaray-Metro Kurtarma Asal, R., (2010), Theodosius Limanı ve Projesi Kurtarma Kazıları; Yenikapı- Kazıları Sempozyumu Bildirileri: 5-6 May İstanbul’un Bizans Dönemi Deniz Ticareti, Sirkeci ve Üsküdar İstasyonları Arkeolojik 2008, İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri, İstanbul, edited by U. Kocabaş, İstanbul Arkeoloji Çalışmaları ve İstanbul’un 8 Bin Yılı’’, p. 121-134. Müzeleri 1. Marmaray-Metro Kurtarma Hayalden Gerçeğe Bir İstanbul Öyküsü Özsait Kocabaş, I. and Kocabaş, U., Kazıları Sempozyumu Bildirileri: 5-6 Mayıs Marmaray, Gama Holding, Ankara, p. 54- (2012), Yenikapı Batıklarında Teknoloji 2008, İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri, İstanbul, 76. ve Konstrüksiyon Özellikleri: Bir Ön p. 153-156. Kızıltan, Z., (2014), Marmaray-Metro Değerlendirme, Yenikapı’nın Eski Gemileri Başaran, S., (2010), Demirden Yollar ve Projeleri; Yenikapı, Sirkeci ve Üsküdar 1, Ege Yayınları, İstanbul, p. 102. Marmaray Kıyısında Eski Bir Liman, edited Kazıları, 2004-2014 Fotoğraflarla Kazı Özsait Kocabaş, I., (2013), Yenikapı 12 by U. Kocabaş, Yenikapı’nın Eski Gemileri 1, Günlüğü, İstanbul, p. 8-21. Teknesinin Yüzyıllar Süren Yolculuğu, Saklı Ege Yayınları, İstanbul, p. 19. Kızıltan, Z. and Başaran, S., (2015), Limandan Hikayeler, Yenikapı’nın Batıkları, Berger, A., (1994), Theodosius Limanı, Marmaray Metro Projeleri ve Yenikapı Vehbi Koç Vakfı, İstanbul, p. 48-55. Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, vol. Arkeolojik Kurtarma Kazıları, edited by Perinçek, D., (2010), Yenikapı Kazı Alanının VII, İstanbul, p. 263. Ü. Yalçın and H. D. Bienert, Kültürlerin Son 8000 Yıllık Jeo-Arkeolojisi ve Doğal Bittel, K., (1970), Bemerkungen über Köprüsü Anadolu, Zeitschrift für Kunst und Afetlerin Jeolojik Kesitteki İzleri, Yenikapı die prähistorische Ansiedlung auf dem Kultur im Bergbau Beiheft 27 (Turkish - Antik Liman Kazılarında Jeoarkeoloji Fikirtepe bei Kadikoy (İstanbul)”, Istanbuler German), p. 263-288. Çalışmaları ve Yeni Bulgular, Türkiye Jeoloji Kurultayı - Bildiri Özetleri Kitabı, 16- 22 Mitteilungen 19/20, p. 1-19. Kızıltan, Z. and Polat, M. A., (2013), April 2007, İstanbul, p. 131-135. Denker, A., Yağcı, G. and Akay, A.B., (2007), Yenikapı Kurtarma Kazıları: Neolitik Sultanahmet Eski Cezaevi, Gün Işığında Dönem Çalışmaları, Arkeoloji ve Sanat 143, Pulak, C., (2007), Yenikapı Bizans Batıkları, İstanbul’un 8000 Yılı, Marmaray, Metro, p. 1-40. Gün Işığında İstanbul’un 8000 Yılı, Marmaray, Metro, Sultanahmet Kazıları, Sultanahmet Kazıları, edited by Z. Kızıltan, Kızıltan, Z. and Saner, T., (2010), İstanbul’da edited by Z. Kızıltan, Vehbi Koç Vakfı, Vehbi Koç Vakfı, İstanbul, p. 125-141. Arkeoloji, İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri İstanbul, p. 202-215. Dirimtekin, F., (1953), Fetihten Önce Arşiv Belgeleri (1970-2010), İstanbul Bilgi Marmara Surları, İstanbul. Üniversitesi Yayınları, İstanbul. Pulak, C., Ingram, R., Jones, M. and Matthews, S., (2013), Yenikapı Batıkları ve Doğu, D., Köse, N. Kartal and Erdin, Kocabaş, U., (2010), İstanbul Üniversitesi Batıkların Gemi Yapımı Araştırmalarına N., (2011) Wood Identification of Yenikapı Batıkları Projesi: Gemiler, İstanbul Katkısı, Saklı Limandan Hikayeler, Wooden Marine Piles From the Ancient Arkeoloji Müzeleri 1. Marmaray-Metro Yenikapı’nın Batıkları, Vehbi Koç Vakfı, Byzantine Port of Eleutherius/Theodosius, Kurtarma Kazıları Sempozyumu Bildirileri: İstanbul, p. 23-34. BioResources, 6 / 2, p. 987-1018. 5-6 May 2008, İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri, İstanbul, p. 23-33. Yılmaz, Y., (2011), Marmara Bölgesi Neolitik Girgin, Ç., (2007), Sirkeci’de Sürdürülen Dönem Ölü Gömme Geleneklerinde İlkler: Kazı Çalışmalarından Elde Edilen Sonuçlar, Kocabaş, U., (2012), Theodosius Limanı’nda Yenikapı Kazı Bulguları”, TÜBA-AR 14, p. Gün Işığında İstanbul’un 8000 Yılı, Hayat, Batıklar ve Hızlı Gömülme, 283-302. Marmaray, Metro, Sultanahmet Kazıları, Yenikapı’nın Eski Gemileri, Yenikapı Yılmaz, Y., (2014), Bir Yerleşim, Bir edited by Z. Kızıltan, Vehbi Koç Vakfı, Batıkları 1, 2., Ege Yayınları, İstanbul, p. Yöntem: Yenikapı Neolitik Dönem İstanbul, p. 97-105. 25-35. Gömütlerinin Kazılması, Belgelenmesi ve Gökçay, M., (2007), Kazılarında Ortaya Kocabaş, U. and Özsait Kocabaş,. I., (2013), Değerlendirilmesi, Hayalden Gerçeğe Bir Çıkan Mimari Buluntular, Gün Işığında Gemi Arkeolojisinde Yeni Bir Milat, İstanbul Öyküsü Marmaray, Gama Holding, Image 17. The woman statue from findings of Sirkeci Excavations İstanbul’un 8000 Yılı, Marmaray, Metro, Yenikapı Batıkları Projesi, Saklı Limandan Ankara, p. 256-271.

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 57 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016 GLASS FINDINGS from MARMARAY/SUBWAY Prof. Dr. Üzlifat Canav Özgümüş Doğuş University, Faculty of Fine Arts and Design. CONSTRUCTION EXCAVATIONS at SIRKECI [email protected] Salvage excavations, presided over by oil lamps. These are hollow-stemmed İstanbul Archaeological Museums, lamps⁴, lamps with bead bases, lamps were performed in various districts of Until the Marmaray (Metro line) with handles and conical lamps (Image İstanbul as part of Marmaray-Subway 5)⁵. They are generally in green and construction project and glass findings, construction, Ottoman glass art yellow tones. Especially conical lamps dating across 2000 years through Greek, (possibly used as liquor vessels) have Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods, was only being studied through very high-quality craftsmanship. Some were obtained. These glass fragments a limited number or sources. of them have horizontally grooved cut exemplify the best works of each period. decorations and others have cobalt blue glass dots. Other lamp forms are possibly In general, the earliest findings from the from later periods. Conical lamps may be excavation sites in Sirkeci date back to Greek letters inside a tabula ansata. These dated to Late Roman or Early Byzantine the Hellenistic Period (3rd-1st Centuries findings are especially important, as they periods (5th Century). BC). Cast and mosaic glasses as well as are very few in the world. Image 2. Roman bowl core-formed amphoriskos were found The most interesting group of Byzantine from this period (Image 1). A large number of Byzantine glasses glasses is chunk fragments. Kilograms of were also found during the excavations. chunk fragments in olive, amber, green The number of findings increases These are daily life items. Their colors and blue tones were obtained (Image rapidly as of the Roman period (1st-4th are mostly vivid and green, olive, 6). These must have been imported for Centuries). There are colorless works, amber, yellow-green colors are in a melting and reshaping. Also, a large made from very refined and clear large quantity. There are few colorless number of broken cups, bases of bowls, materials, as well as bluish, greenish, examples, which display refined bottles (Image 6), plain and twisted yellowish, veined and olive glasses, craftsmanship. Flat cast window glasses bracelets (Image 7) were found. colored by unwanted metal oxides in are colorless and have bubbles. Some the glass batches. Intentionally colored have ground borders (wheel-abraded). Another issue, which is related to the turquoise, cobalt blue, purple and amber These are possible remains of an raw glass found at Sirkeci is the ‘‘Gate of glasses are among the examples. Free- important structure in Sirkeci. Some Glassmakers” which has not been located or mold-blown perfume bottles, cups, of the examples form a semicircle or a yet (Porte Verrerie)⁶. There are several goblets, bowls and twisted bracelets, triangle when assembled together. There ruins recently discovered in the same Image 1. Hellenistic amphoriskos which are among typical items of are window glasses other than cast ones. neighborhood which may be considered Roman daily life, constitute the majority. Also, there are cylinder-blown glasses as a part of this famous gate but it is too Image 3. Pieces of the Ennion bowl Fragments of thick-walled, molded and crown glasses (known as elephant's early to identify them with certainty as bowls (Image 2) and luxury glasses with eye). the “Gate of Glassmakers”. horizontal grooves, or oval surfaces with cut decorations were obtained. Two examples among the Byzantine A large amount of Ottoman glasses were findings are very rare architectural pieces also found in Sirkeci excavations and The most extraordinary finding from of wall plaques: one mosaic and the other are very important in terms of Ottoman the Roman period is fragments of the gold foiled glass fragments (Image 4)2. glassmaking history. We followed Ennion bowls, which is one of the earliest Ottoman glassmaking in illuminated examples of serial production and is The most common shape found during manuscripts like Surname-I Humayun included in the 'Ennion Exhibition' Marmaray excavations is goblets3. Based (1582) (Image 8) and Surname-i Vehbi catalogue of the Metropolitan Museum1 on their parallels, they may be dated (1820) (Image 11), narh books like (Image 3). The light blue fragments have to the 6th-7th centuries. However, the one dated to 1640, travel books been dated to the 1st century and they considering the constancy of their shapes, (Seyahatname by Evliya Çelebi), estate have embossed plant decorations made it is possible that the same forms were books and certain newspaper issues in the mold blowing technique. In the used at later dates. (Takvim-i Vekayi, January 19, 1847). middle of the decorations, there is an We did not have real objects other than inscription that says 'Ennion made me' in Another group of Byzantine findings is the Beykoz glasses from the 19th century.

1 C.S.Lightfoot.Ennion: Master of Roman Glass, New York, 2014. 2 A.Saldern,Ancient and Byzantine Glass from Sardis. London ,1980, p.89 no 657-666; C.S.Lightfoot, Ancient Glass in National Museums Scotland,Edinburg , 2007, p.192; A.Oliver, Ancient and Islamic Glass in The Carnegie Museum of Natural History, Pittsburg,1980, p.150 no 268; Ü.Özgümüş, ’Byzantine Glass Finds in The Roman Theatre at İznik (Nikaea)’ Image 4. Glass fragments of Byzantine Architecture Image 5. Byzantine conical lamps Byzantinische Zeitschrift, Band 101, Heft 2, 2008,Tafel XXVII Fig.4. 3 A.V.M.Gill, Amorium Reports, Finds I: The Glass (1987-1997), Oxford, 2002, p.65 no 170: Fig.2/4; 171 Fig.2/5. 4 Gill (2002) p. 63 no 21-22,24; Oliver (1980) p.116 no 200-202; Saldern (1980) Pl.11 nos 274-275 5 Lightfoot (2007) p.95, 219-220. 6 J.P.Philippe,,Le Monde Byzantine Dans L’Histoire de la Verrerie, Bologna, 1970, p.17. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 61 2016 A small group of Ottoman glasses were concentrated in different areas of the city The similarity between the glasses found found in excavations of the Palace of in different times. The areas mentioned in in Sirkeci excavations and the examples Polyeuctus but were not studied in written sources or revealed in excavations in miniatures and the wasted material Glassworks mentioned detail⁷. In Sirkeci excavations, a lot of are Bakırköy, Sultanahmet, Tekfur Sarayı found in the excavation sites shows that in written sources were glasses in various types were found in (Palace of the Porphyrogenitus), Sirkeci these glasses are local productions. The large amounts. and Beykoz. Also, we find out that mirror, claims in previous publications that those located at Bakırköy, bottle and window glass makers produce proposed the Ottoman glassmaking We now have hundreds of fragments. their goods in separate workshops. developed depending upon Venice Sultanahmet, Blakhernai Palace, The earliest examples (15th C) are bottles Findings from Sirkeci support this and the glassmakers seen in Surname-i Sirkeci, and Beykoz. which were free-blown glasses with a information. Bottles constitute the Hümayun are Venetian glassmakers in second layer of mold-blown ribbed glass highest number of glass products. Our Ottoman attire lose their validations with under the shoulder line. There is a bulge most significant reference to the origin Sirkeci findings⁹. number of Venetian and Bohemian on their necks (Image 9). They resemble of these bottles in terms of locality is the glasses found during excavations as Abbasid glasses in terms of technique miniatures in Surname-i Hümayun and Glasses from the 19th century are tangible examples of the imported goods. and Byzantine glasses in terms of color⁸. Surname-i Vehbi and embossments on the different. They were decolorized better Materials of olive, brown and yellow Fountain of Ahmed III in Üsküdar. The and there are even examples we may call It is well known that Italian families glasses are almost identical to the objects glasses found in layers dated to the 16th- colorless. This shows that glassmaking resided in Sirkeci and Tahtakale, two dated to the Byzantine period. This 17th centuries are, like in the miniatures, advanced in time. There are numerous of the busiest districts of İstanbul. indicates that Ottoman and Byzantine either plain or ribbed and turquoise in color colorless examples among Beykoz glasses Venetians, the Genoese, Pisans and glassmakers were not very far from each (Image 8-11). All of them are homogeneous and pad bases constitute a strikingly Amalfians had their own neighborhoods. other. Gradually, sizes of the bottles in composition. Along with finished large number (Image 12)10. These are rose These Italian residents had been in have grown, their forms have changed products, some pieces were obtained water sprinklers or pitcher bases. There İstanbul to do trade since the Byzantine and almost all the colors have turned to that were spoiled during production. is a cobalt blue example (Image 12). This period. Naturally, they used appliances turquoise (16th-17th Centuries). Devitrificated objects and production is a homogenous group in terms of Late they brought from their hometowns, wastes were found. The existence of this Ottoman glass colors and production especially glass items, in their family Ottoman glassmaking should be regarded sort of material points out to a glassmaking methods. The large amount of wasted houses. Moreover, as stated above, these as an industry supported by the state and activity because the glasses used in houses material indicates that these are local glass products made up a significant is bound by certain rules. Glassmakers and sold in shops must be faultless. products. portion of Ottoman importation.

The majority of Venetian findings are from 16th-17th centuries. Prior to Marmaray-Subway excavations, we only saw this type of glasses in museums or publications11. The findings are especially similar to glasses found in the Venetian merchant ship Gagiana that sank in the Adriatic Sea in 1583 (the Gnalick Wreck) 12. The most crowded group among the Venetian glasses comprises of filigrana glass. Pieces of long-necked and funnel-rimmed vases or bottles; hollow bases of bowls and goblets are striking (Image 13). Only fragments of bases of slim, long and cylindrical cesendellos, Image 8. Surname-i Hümayun, glass furnace which were used as lamps in mosques, The incredible number of local glass information on the subject. were found (Image 13). These glasses works unearthed during excavations Local materials and imported goods were were made by attaching opaque white or colored glass rods onto hot, transparent conducted in Sirkeci as a part of the found together in Sirkeci excavations. glass. They are similar to the Turkish Marmaray-Subway construction casts This is natural because Ottoman archives Çeşm-i Bülbül (Nightingale's Eye) but Image 6. Byzantine bottles ve chunk fragments Image 7. Byzantine bracelets light on the unknown aspects of Ottoman frequently emphasize on glasses imported easily distinguishable by their very thin

7 J.W.Hayes, ‘’Glass of the Ottoman Period’’. Excavations at Saraçhane in İstanbul, c.II, Princeton, 1992, pp.418-420, Fig.156-8; Pl.52 d. glassmaking and gives us significant from the West. There is a considerable walls. 8 S.Carboni; D.Whitehouse, Glass of the Sultans, New York, 2001, p. 95 undulated glass trails on the neck of the flask; p. 96 bulged neck of the flask; S.Carboni, Glass from Islamic Lands, London.2002, p. 235 bulged neck of the flask. 11 R.Rückert, ’Venezianische Moscheeampeln in İstanbul’. Sonderdruck aus der Festschrift für Harald Keller, Darmstadt, 1963, pp. 223-234; Hettes, Old 9 M.Rogers, ’Glass in Ottoman Turkey’, İstanbuler Mitteilungen, vol. 33, 1983, p. 251. Venetian Glass. London,1960. 10 F.Bayramoğlu, Turkish Glass Art and Beykoz-Ware, İstanbul, 1976, pp.150,152; Ü.Canav, TŞCFAŞ Cam Eserler Koleksiyonu, İstanbul, 1985, p.99;Ü. 12 I. Lazar ve H. Wilmott, The Glass from the Gnalick Wreck, Koper, 2006. İSTANBUL Özgümüş, Anadolu Camcılığı, İstanbul, 2000, p.79 SPECIAL ISSUE 63 2016 References Bayramoğlu,F., (1976), Turkish Glass Art and Sirkeci digs uncovered a high Beykoz-Ware, İstanbul. number of locally made glass Canav,Ü., (1985), TŞCFAŞ Ancient Glass Collection, İstanbul. products, which increased our Carboni, S., Whitehouse D., (2001), Glass of knowledge about Ottoman glass the Sultans, New York. Carboni, S., (2002), Glass from Islamic Lands, art significantly. London. Charleston, R.J., (1966), The Import of Western Glass into Turkey: sixteenth- Records (June 11, 1569) show that eighteenth centuries, The Connoisseur, pp. Sokollu Mehmed Pasha placed an order 18-26. for glasses with spiral glass rods (vetro a Gill,A.V.M., (2002), Amorium Reports, Finds fili or latticinio), which are very similar I: The Glass (1987-1997), Oxford. to Sirkeci glasses, through Venetian Hayes, J.W., (1992), Glass of the Ottoman 13 ambassador Marc Antonio Barbaro . Period, Excavations at Saraçhane in İstanbul, Sokollu Mehmed Pasha ordered 900 v. II, Princeton, pp. 410-421. lamps, including 300 Nicaean-style lamps Hettes, K., (1960), Old Venetian Glass. with outward rims, 300 cesendellos, and London. 300 large cesendellos. Some of the lamps Janin, R., (1969), La Geographie had white rods while others were plain. Ecclesiastique de L’Empire Byzantin: Les Lamps at the Topkapı Palace are very Image 9-10. Glass from Surname-i Hümayun and glass pieces as excavation findings Egliseset les Monasteres, Paris. close parallels of these imported lamps. Lazar, I. and H. Wilmott (2006), The Glass Venetian window glasses were found from the Gnalick Wreck. Koper. during the studies. These cast- or Lightfoot, C.S., (2007), Ancient Glass in mold-blown glasses with honeycomb National Museums Scotland. Edinburgh. embossments have very close paralles Image 12. Beykoz glasses and excavation findings Lightfoot,C.S., (2014), Ennion:Master of among findings recovered from the Roman Glass, New York. Gnalic Wreck. There are also greyish and Oliver, A., (1980), Ancient and Islamic Glass greenish glasses as well as amber and in The Carnegie Museum of Natural History. emerald green glasses, which appear very Pittsburgh. exclusive products and no analogs of Özgümüş,Ü., (2000), Anadolu Camcılığı, these have been found (Image 13). İstanbul. Özgümüş, Ü., (2008), Byzantine Glass Finds In summary, the Marmaray-Sirkeci in The Roman Theatre at İznik (Nikaea), excavations have made it possible to Byzantinische Zeitschrift, Band 101, Heft 2, establish a realistic profile of glassmaking pp.727-735. and glass use in İstanbul. Glasses from Philippe,J.P., (1970), Le Monde Byzantine various periods were analyzed by Şişecam DansL’Histoire de la Verrerie, Bologna. Research Center specialists and electron Rogers, M., (1983), Glass in Ottoman Turkey’’, microprobe analyses were performed. All these findings reveal that glassware Istanbuler Mitteilungen, Issue: 33, p. 251. use has been constant in İstanbul for Rückert, R., (1963), centuries. İstanbul was the metropolis VenezianischeMoscheeampeln in İstanbul, of three great empires (the Roman, the Sonderdruckaus der Festschrift für Harald Byzantine and the Ottoman); therefore, Keller, Darmstadt, pp.223-234. these findings pose great importance. Saldern,A., (1980), Ancient and Byzantine Image 11. Miniature in Surname-i Vehbi and bottle as as excavation finding Glass from Sardis. London. Image 13. Venetian glasses 13 R.J.Charleston, ’The Import of Western Glass into Turkey:sixteenth-eighteenth centuries’. The Connoisseur, May, 1966, s.18-26. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 65 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

Assoc. Prof. Dr. Hülya Berkmen EYÜP, from the 17TH CENTURY to the REPUBLIC Yıldız Technical University, Faculty of Architecture, Urban and Regional Planning Department with a VIEW to IDENTITY, IDEOLOGY and SYMBOLICAL MEANING [email protected] Eyüp is in the metropolitan area of (Amicis, 2006) This tells us that the Eyüp İstanbul, on the shore of the Golden cemetery, with its location and its flora, Horn, and has an original identity for The values that shaped the lives in memories as the most important being the first extramural settlement Eyüp area’s physical character landscape of the Golden Horn. neighboring to the Historical Peninsula, an identity which it has kept until today are its lifestyle and its cultural During the Byzantine times, Eyüp was (Figure 1). called ‘Cosmidon’ (Green Area) due to structure through the its original slopes down to the shore, and Eyüp, with its monumental architecture, certainly continued to be a picnic area all stands out as an environmentally historical process. the way to the 19th century. (Erses, 1998) protected area, the physical form of which is shaped by its ‘lifestyle’ and its The sanctity of Eyüp Sultan being ratified by the State, attracted a high ‘cultural structure’ through history. Eyüp area (Image 1). number of people who wanted to be It was during the time Fatih Sultan The fact that the sword donning buried at a sacred place, making the Mehmet (the Conquerer) laid siege ceremonies were always faithfully held cemetery there the ideal burial place. around the city when the tomb of Halid there, is an indicator that sanctity of In addition to people of high positions Eba Eyyüb El-Ensari, a pathfinder of Eyyub Ensarî was underlined by the State as well. This naturally encouraged in the government administration, the Prophet Mohammed, was discovered, civilian population, even those that do and the Eyüp area attained its identity a high number of charity organizations and foundations to race one another to not live in İstanbul, were beginning to as a sacred place. Settlement began dream of resting there after their demise, after Fatih Sultan Mehmet had the first leave their meaningful traces in the area. ‘Sultan’s Mosque and Complex’ (1459) Such legacy includes mosques, tekkas, built, and continued through the 15th medresas, fountains, schools for young The settlement began to form and 16th centuries. The District called children, free potable water distributing ‘Eyüp Sultan’ has been one of the most installations, baths and the like, around during the 15th and 16th sacred places of Islam since the year which, a large number of people built 563 AD, and is accepted as the fourth their homes. centuries, having started destination1 for pilgrimage. The spiritual symbolism of Eyüp, which it owes to The Eyüp Sultan Complex therefore has with the building of the first Eyüp Sultan, has been influential in a holistic identity with its rich physical Ottoman Sultans attaining their position possessions as well as its symbolical Sultan’s Mosque and Complex as Caliph (religious representative of the values, and continues to exercise the Islamic World), and hence transfer the same attraction even today. ordered by Fatih Sultan Mehmet relics kept within the Kaaba, to Eyüp. According to Jean François Perouse, the (Mehmet the Conqueror). This led the sacred center represented French sociologist, cemeteries are “live by the Eyüp tomb to become very sources of actual demographic dynamics” and this made the Eyüp Complex, with prestigious in the Ottoman protocol. and tell us “tell us stories, not only about the large and small tombs around it, Another of the roles the district played the people buried there, but about a lot the most popular ‘city of the dead’ in during the growth of the Ottoman of other things as well, many of which İstanbul. (Eyice, 1998) The rare tombs Empire was that it was turned into being are not readily observable. Gravestones that we see in the other districts of are sometimes rich with information the location where important ceremonies, the city become astonishingly high about where those people have come Figure 1. Map of relations between the Historical Peninsula and Eyüp such as coronation ceremony, oaths of in number there, and this is certainly allegiance, sword donning, circumcisions, from, or about many things they understandable. Eyüp tombs exhibit births and celebrations of victories, events encountered on their route to İstanbul”. diversities in Turkish architectural styles, We may see this water-related character considerable section is within the borders with considerable speed. What catches which brought the people together, were Italian novelist Edmondo de Amicis, and we must underline that they were of Eyüp as a historical continuity. It is of Eyüp. (Yenen vd, 2000) the attention of modern İstanbul, held. (Tanman, 1998: 94-96) As those who visited İstanbul in 1874, describes all built in the 16th century. Crowds of true that during the reign of Suleyman The officially ratified sanctity of the though, is that side by side with the ceremonies involved parades between the Golden Horn as “the most beautiful people visit the tombs today, say a prayer the Magnificent, the ancient water tomb of one of Prophet Mohammed’s spiritual identity of Eyüp, exists also an Eyüp and the Palace, the route thus landscape of İstanbul”, and refers to Eyüp for the deceased, and in order to answer systems inherited from the Romans were companions, with all the graveyards entertainment identity in a very original followed was called the ‘Sacred Arc’ and it as follows: “The delicate architecture the needs of such visitors, that are a lot of repaired and improved with the addition around it, coming together with those way. proceeded along the shore of the Golden of the mosque, the bright white tombs water stations and fountains in the area. of closed canals and underground cemeteries around the Fatih Complex, Horn; and districts located on that route hidden in a forest of cypresses, makes this This simple fact makes Eyüp, İstanbul’s galleries. The most important among made Eyüp a place where spiritual life What is known as the “Tulip Era” of water-rich settlement. (Eyice, 1998) had an impact on the development of the place the sacred heart of the Ottomans.” such improvements is the Kırkçeşme and contemporary life existed together, the Ottoman Empire (1718-1730) was (Forty Fountains) installation, of which a and thus, the whole district developed a time when cultural activities were 1 A place of worship and prayer appreciated by thousands of visitors. After Mecca, Medina and Al Kuds (Jerusalem), Eyüp is held by some as the third most sacred place in Islam.”. H. İnalcık, Eyüp Sultan Tarihi Ön Araştırma Projesi, Eyüp’te Sosyal Yaşam, Tülay Artan, editor, Tarih Vakfı Yurt Yayınları, 1998. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 69 2016 One of the roles played by Eyüp during Ottoman times was to host all sorts of ceremonies like crownings, sword-donnings, celebrations of circumcisions, births and victories, thereby becoming a place of focus as it contributed to the strengthening of the State’s relations with the people. intensified, and with the expansion of the city into extramuros areas, Kâğıthane and especially Eyüp became places where picnic areas were gaining importance. It was during those times that the she- shore palaces and estates came forth as important elements of the urban pattern. (Yenen vd, 2000: 81-85)

Eyüp gained an additional concept as being the living area of the palace women, family members, wives and children of the Sultans, where music was an extremely important part of daily life. Composer Zekâi Dede Efendi2, remembered for his verses “Separation is a strong word; equating it with death is not an exageration; to whoever is victim to that torture; daytimes darken into nights”, was a famous Ottoman musician closely identified with Eyüp. (Sanal, 2001)

This kind of music gained diversity with the Mawlawy (Whirling Derwishes) music in localities belonging to that denomination, and the Ottoman military band playing victory marches during ceremonies, the gay music played at circumcisions, weddings, funerals and so forth. A high number of religious singers took residence in Eyüp, and the Bahariye Mawlawy Center found a place for itself there as well. This very special Mawlawy center was established in 1873 is still Image 1. View to Golden Horn from hills of Eyüp 2 Zekâi Dede Efendi was born in the Cedid Ali Pasha Mosque section of Eyüp in 1825, was educated at the Eyüp Medresa, and learned music from his tutor Eyyubî Bey. Among his important İSTANBUL works we can mention the “Hisâr-Bûselik”, “Şehnâz Bûselik”, “Hicazkâr” ‘fasıl’s, “Ferahnâk Beste”, “Acem-Aşîrân Beste”, “Sûz-i Dil Semaî”, Mawlawy Hymns. H. Sanal, Eyüpsultan SPECIAL ISSUE 71 2016 Vasfında Musikili Bir Türkü, p.33, Eyüpsultan Symposium, Istanbul, 2001. and mehter fashion’ in Europe. The children, picnic areas being attractive II. Eyüp Sultan Sempozyumu, 8-10 May, Eyüp borders of the Ottomans where extended to them as well as to visitors, interest in Municipality, İstanbul, p. 12-38. Even in the Byzantine times, to Vienna during the reign of Suleyman toys and ceramics was not missing. The In addition to its dominant Fındık, N.Ö., (2014), Anadolu Arkeolojisinde the Magnificent (1520-1574), and the market place of Eyüp gained an original Bazı Seramik Oyuncaklar (XII-XV. yüzyıllar), Eyüp was special with its ‘mehter’ influence lead over 90 great identity with its workshops and sales identity as a religious center, Milli Folklor (first publishing at 1998), year original landscapes and its European composers to compose some outlets. 26. 150 such ‘Marches’; Lizst, Rossini, Johann the area has a number of Koman, M., (1986), “Eyüp Sultan Loti Kahvesi slopes overlooking the Golden Strauss, and Beethoven, to mention a few. Surface soil research shows us that a ve Çevresi”, İstanbul. Notably, the Mozart Opera ‘Abduction major part of the pottery was made additional characters it is Ministry of Culture, (1995), İstanbul Tekfur from the Palace’ has some ‘Mehter’ music for daily use. (Refik, 1988) Although Sarayı- Osmanlı Dönemi Çini Fırınları Horn. It was given the name we can in no way know the size of this in its 9th part. (Parlar, 1998) known for: it has been a ve Eyüp Çömlekçiler Mahallesi Yüzey industry at any given time, the pots and Araştırmaları, Ministry of Culture, Excavation ‘Cosmidon’ (Green Area) in pans for storage and serving of food, resort area, a picnic area, a Eyüp has been an inspiration for and Research Results Conference, Ankara, p. literature as well. A French mariner, and the ceramics pipes used for water those times. The cemeteries distribution, do give some clues. recreational area, all of these 535-566. gaining fame in Europe with the Parlar, G., (1998), "Sanatçı Gözüyle Mehter", pseudonym Pièrre Loti, visited İstanbul Cemeteries being of such great on the slopes must have had importance in the area, and watering the fed by its tree-nurseries, its Tarihi, Kültürü ve Sanatıyla II. Eyüp Sultan for the first time in 1876-77, and fell in graves being a tradition in our culture, Sempozyumu, 8-10 May, Eyüp Municipality, something to do with that. love with a Moslem woman here. Upon one naturally is led to think that pitchers toy-makers, potters - and İstanbul, p. 180-185. his return to his country, he used his were not only used in homes, but in Refik, A., (1988), XVI. Yüzyılda İstanbul’da diary to write a novel called ‘Aziyade’. Loti graveyards as well. (Kültür Bakanlığı, certainly music was one of the Gündelik Hayat. active today, organizing Sema evenings stands out in that novel (and in his later 1995) The district is also known for its Sanal, H., (2001), “Eyüpsultan Vasfında for the Whirling Derwishes. works) for expressing his warm feelings vegetable gardens and its flowers, so plant strong factors which gave shape Musikili Bir Türkü”, V. Eyüpsultan Sword donning ceremonies of Eyüp had and respect for Turks. (Erses, 1998) He pots, earthenware jars for pickles and the Sempozyumu, Eyüp Municipality, İstanbul, p. their own music, played by the military came back to Turkey in 1887, and spent like were probably effectively feeding into to Eyüp’s very special pattern. 30-37. band (Mehter). The roots of the Mehter all of his time on the slopes of Eyüp, the a demand for this industry. Tanman, B., (1998), Kılıç Kuşanma Band have gone back all the way to tranquility and the landscape pleasing Törenlerinin Eyüp Sultan Külliyesi ile Yakın the Central Asian Turkish States, and him enormously. That particular hill, and Research also shows that in addition to The coast of the inlet, the unusual Çevresine Yansıması, Tarihi, Kültürü ve represented one of the oldest kind of the open air coffee shop located there, are wooden toys made in the area, ‘whistling topography, the buildings and the green Sanatıyla II. Eyüp Sultan Sempozyumu, 8-10 ceremonial music, celebrating the power now given the name Pièrre Loti, and has a flora come together with the historical pitchers’ were made for children, some May, Eyüp Municipality, İstanbul, p. 94-96. and magnificence of the State. It is not most charming outlook onto the curving examples of which are exhibited at legacy, making Eyüp a very important Yenen, Z., Akın, O. and Berkmen, H., (2000), music of entertainment, but symbolizes inlet of the Golden Horn. (Koman, 1986) the Municipality Museum of İstanbul. and interesting settlement. In our present Eyüp Dönüşüm Sürecinde Sosyal, Ekonomik, the departure of the army going on a (Yenişehirlioğlu, 1995) day, it has a dominant identity as a Mekânsal Yapı İstanbul, Eyüp Municipality, campaign. It was a tradition for the Another example of how the Mehteran religious center, but in addition to that, İstanbul, p. 81-85. soldiers to take their first steps with the Music influenced Europe is related to the Toymakers used to continue selling at there are many other identities it hides. Yenişehirlioğlu, F. (1995), Éyüp Çarşısı, Eyüp beatings of great drum set up in front of novel Loti wrote some ten years after his shops on both sides of the street that Being a place for summer houses, of visit to İstanbul; the title was Madame Municipality, İstanbul, p. 96-99. the Sultan’s tent, accompanied by brass leads to the pier, until the great fire of picnic grounds, a place of entertainment, Chrysanthemum; and that novel inspired instruments. The Mehter Band and the 1921, and their workshops were right all fed by the tree-nurseries, toymakers, Italian composer Puccini to compose flag were symbols of a State, and stood for behind those shops. Their toys generally potters and music – all these are among References of Images ‘Madame Butterfly’ under the influence of authorization by the Sultan. In Ottoman were of the same formats, since making the main influences on the development Figure 1. Map of Moltke 1839, Archive of Japanese exotism, a concept pioneered by models of live creatures was seen as a of the original physical pattern of Eyüp. İstanbul Metropolitan Municipality. times, this historical band lived its most Loti again. (Refik, 1988) ostentatious days during the reign of sin by them – they never made dolls or Image 1. Engravings of İstanbul, V. 2, toy animals. Small musical instruments Fatih Sultan Mehmet (the Conqueror). published by Ministry of Culture and As we talk about globalization today, we were what they worked on mostly. Tourism, Ankara. The musicians’ outfits and their certainly need to take account of the role References Evliya Çelebi (a famous traveller) Amicis, De E., (2006), İstanbul, 1874 instruments are extremely interesting, İstanbul played in the 18th century. describes these toymakers in his book translated by Beynun Akyavaş, Türk Tarih with different colours and models ‘Seyahatname’ as follows: ‘There are some Kurumu, İstanbul. representing the role and function of each Cultural values of Eyüp also include the 105 toymakers working in 100 shops. 3 Erses, S., (1998), Kuruluşundan Günümüze person in the band. (Parlar, 1998) art of ceramics, accepted as a branch of (Evliya Çelebi, 1896) Other than the fine arts in our day, i.e., pottery, as it was Mosque, tomb, graves and sacred values, Eyüpsultan'da Kimlik Arayışı, Tarihi, Kültürü So the Mehter Band has always been a called in history. The development of the Eyüp market is a lively place, full ve Sanatıyla II. Eyüp Sultan Sempozyumu, focus of attention for the ambassadors, workshops and toy making in the area off fishermen, milk shops, prayer-beads 8-10 May, Eyüp Municipality, İstanbul, p. painters, travellers and such; with brought a powerful impact. One reason makers, fabric printers, rose oil sellers, 294-298. musicians in their uniforms, with their was that the area held some very suitable potters, toymakers, animal traders, Evliya Çelebi Seyahatnamesi, (1896), music, and their ceremonies, and caused soil for this purpose. (Fındık, 1998) Eyüp especially during its Friday bazaar – with Dersaadet, vol. I, Book 1, İkdam. a considerably long period of ‘turkish being the district of lady sultans and a crowd of buyers, too.’ Eyice, S., (1998), "Eyüpsultan Semtinde Tarih ve Sanat Tarihi", Tarihi, Kültürü ve Sanatıyla

3 During the 19th century, Sultan Mahmut II abolished the Mehter Bands (along with the Jannissary Army), and proceeded to replace it by Mızıkay-ı Humayun, putting an end to a 500 year old Mehter tradition. The Eyüp Sultan Foundation established its own Mehter Band in 1997, to perform on special days. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 73 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

Prof. Dr. Yegan Kahya A ‘NEAR but FAR’ ARCHIPELAGO: İstanbul Technical University, Faculty of Architecture. the İSTANBUL ISLANDS [email protected] Nine islands and two cliffs lie in the diversity of the flora. The forests made all of those islands had large monasteries Marmara Sea, southeast of İstanbul, up of calabrian pines and other maquis and churches. The Panayia Kamariotissa known as The İstanbul‘ Islands’ or ‘Prince have always been the most characteristic The islands of İstanbul have Those islands have been a place Church of Heybeliada and the block wall, Islands’1(Figure 1-2). element shaping the skyline of the pillars, pillar capitals, remains of walls İstanbul Islands. gone through a lot of changes of exile, as well as a place of and foundations belonging to the Hristos Starting with the largest, Büyükada Metamorphosis Monastery Church10 are (Prinkipo), the Heybeliada (Halki), with the passage of time, but refuge, for prominent figures Monasteries, Fishermen’s witnesses to the Byzantine times, and Burgaz Adası (Antigoni), Kınalıada Villages, and Exiles they are serene places which of administrations and religion have been able to reach our day. (Proti) and Sedef Adası (Terebintos) have The fact that Aristotles referred to the (Image 1) their settled populations. Yassıada (Plati), Islands as ‘the Khalkedon Islands’3 have been able to protect their who fell out of favour during recently renamed Freedom Island, Sivri (Kadıköy Adaları) during the 4th In those times, the settlements were Ada (Oxia), Tavşan Adası (Neandros) century BC, indicates that they were original, natural, historical urban the Byzanthine Empire, the simple little fishermen’s villages, and are the less occupied islands of the already known during pre-history. The fields and vineyards around the rich archipelago. The two cliffs, Batmaz and gravestone⁴ discovered on the Burgaz and cultural landscape values to Constitutional Monarchy period monasteries11. That richness was reason Vordonos, known to have been islands Adası, dated to the Hellenistic times, for numerous sieges laid around the in their own right at one time, now have as well as the statue⁵ unearthed on the a great extend. of the Ottoman Empire, and islands, and for lootings as well. In beacons on them. The Islands, rich in Büyükada, and the gold coins of Philipp their minerals, were sometimes referred II, father of Alexander the Great, known during the October addition to being a region of monasteries, the islands were also a place of exile, to as the ‘Red Islands’,2 due to the color as ‘The Büyükada Treasure’⁶ are findings The Prince Islands gained some Revolution in Russia. and refuge, for the prominent religious of their soil. This fertile soil has been leading us to think that the Islands were significance when, during the 6th the main reason for the richness and inhabited during the antique times⁷. leaders and statesmen of Byzance when century, Emperor Justinus II built a 12 palace and a monastery on Büyükada, they fell out of favour . after which, more churches and After the Conquest of monasteries followed one another⁸. İstanbul Byzantine sources tell us that these The islands were captured shortly temples were built on the ruins of earlier before İstanbul was conquered13 in Image 1. Ruins of Burgazada Metamorphosis Roman temples found on the islands⁹. April 1453, and following the short Church The remains today make it evident that period of transition, they came back to

Figure 1. İstanbul and its Islands Figure 2. Positioning of the Islands

1 Shortly known as ‘Islands’, this archipelago has been given many different names in history: Prince/Princesse Islands: J. Von Hammer, İstanbul and Bosphorus, tr. S. Özkan, v.1, AKDTYK Turkish History Agency Publ., Ankara, 2011, 9; R. Janin, “Les iles des Princes, Étude historique et topographique”, Échos d’Orient, v.23, No.134, 1924, 181; R. Janin, Constantinople Image 2. Islands in engraving by Melling Byzantine, Développement Urbain et Répertoire Topographique, 3rd reprint, Paris 1964, 506,507; P. A. Dethier, Boğaziçi ve İstanbul 19. Yüzyıl Sonu, İstanbul 1993, 95; K. Belke, “Lemmata Prinzeninseln” TIB:13 Bthynien und Hellespont, (Programmed to be published by Austrian Academy of Sciences in 2017). Demonisoi (People’s Islands, Genie Islands), Pitiusa 8 Belke, ibid., 269; Quoted from Zonaras by P. Gyllius, Straits of Bosphorus, tr. E. Özbayoğlu, Istanbul 2000, 245. (Pine Islands), Papadonisia (Priests’/ Monk’s/Cleric Islands), Prophecy Islands, Domenesca (Spirit Islands), Happiness Islands, are some that we see. Hammer, ibid., 9; J. Grelot, İstanbul 9 A. Poridis, Istanbul Adaları’nın Sosyal ve Fiziksel Gelişiminin Analizi ile Fiziksel Çevrenin Değerlendirilmesine İlişkin Sistematik Bir Yaklaşım, unpublished PhD. Thesis. Y.T.Ü. Fen Bilimleri E Seyahatnamesi, tr. M. Selen, İstanbul 1998, 54; Dethier, ibid., 95. stitüsü, Istanbul 1999, 6. 2 Janin, ibid. 1964, 507. 10 R. Ousterhout, E. Akyürek, “Burgazada’daki Metamorphosis Kilisesi”, Arkeoloji ve Sanat Tarihi Araştırmaları Yıldız Demiriz’e Armağan, ed. M.B. Tanman, U. Tükel, Istanbul 2001, 93-105; H. 3 Aristoteles, Fantastic Stories (Peri thavmasion akusmaton), Quoted by O. Erdenen, Halkidona Islands, İstanbul 1962, 5 and A. Milas, Büyükada, Prinkipo, Ada-i Kebir, İstanbul 2014, 23. Tekkeden, Burgazadası’ndaki Metamorphosis ve Ayios Georgiyos Karipis Manastırı ile Ayios İoannis Prodromos Kilisesi, unpublished graduate thesis, İ.Ü. Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Istanbul, 1974. 4 M. Hurmutzi, Antigoni Island, Quoted by A.Papadopoulos-Kerameus, İstanbul 1859, p. 51-59.Σημειώσεις ἐϰ χειρογράϕων “Manuscript Studies”, (Semeloseis ek cheirographon), 11 G. Schlumberger, Prince Islands, tr. and ed. by H. Çağlayaner, 2nd reprint, İstanbul, 2000, 29. Byzantinische Zeitschrift, vol.12/1, 1903, 326. 12 It is a known fact that many well known names were exiled to the islands. Constantine II, Patriarch Theodoros, Empress Irene, Empress Zoe, Emperor Mikhael Rangabe, Emperor Romanos Di 5 A. Milas, 2014, 23-24; E. Özbayoğlu, Hükümdarın Adası Büyükada (Eskiçağ ve Bizans Dönemi), İstanbul. 2006, 34-35. genes, Emperor Romanos Lakapenos, Queen Theodora, Great Narses, Patriarch Methodios are some of those names. Schlumberger, ibid., 29, 30, 67, 71. 13 Kritovulos, Kritovulos History 1451-1467, tr. A. Çokona, İstanbul, 2012, 155; S. Runciman, Die Eroberung von Konstantinopel 1453, 3rd print, Münich, 1977, 100. 6 E.Bosch, Eski Sikkeler Rehberi, İstanbul 1951, 211-215. İSTANBUL 7 The statue and the coins known as Büyükada Treasure are exhibits at the İstanbul Archaeological Museum. SPECIAL ISSUE 77 2016 The islands are home to religious buildings, schools, and public buildings necessitated by their multi-cultural heterogeneous social pattern, to which were added during the 19th century some large estates, hotels and hospitals.

life, and continued their life as places Image 5. Greek Orphanage, a magnificent example of the size a wooden build- Image 6. Splendid Palace Hotel, built by Laskaris Kalfa (Foreman) in 1911 ing can reach of agriculture and fishing, right in the 17 middle of the monasteries (Image 2). 9th century, repaired and renewed a Islands were reachable, in good weather, ferry services . This made the islands few times, therefore reflecting the art of by large rowboats, a fact that limited a popular summer destination for the minorities, as well as for the Ottoman The four larger islands, positioned different periods. This complex was used their connection with the city in the upper bureauocracy (Image 4). As the so close to one another (Büyükada, for higher level theological education, early phases. In 1839, though, after the islands began to connect closely with Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kınalıada) were religious teaching and activities. Right Tanzimat Fermanı (Sultan’s Reformist the city’s life, Armenians in large groups the ones that held those settlements. next to the Aya Triada Monastery Church Law) was declared, the minorities had started to settle at Kınalıada18. Population In the 18th century, vine growers and in this complex, today’s school building been endowed by new means and rights, 16 increase and urban development led to fishermen began to migrate and settle stands, built by architect Fotiadis in 1844, and steamships started running in 1846 , the first municipality (6th Daire) to be in the Marmara region from the Aegean with a rich library that contains some followed by the establishment of Şirket-i Image 3. Heybeliada Clerical School established in İstanbul, closely followed Islands and the Peloponnesus, and some significant historical sources (Image 3). Hayriye Company and their scheduled by ‘7th Daire-i Belediye’ to be in charge of of those incomers took residence on the the Islands19. Later on, the administrative islands; thus the dominance of a Greek sections of the city were redefined, and population was what was seen there 14 the name of the Islands’ Municipality was during the 19th century . changed into ‘14th Daire-i Belediye’, and then again into ‘19th Daire-i Belediye’, the Regular Ferries, a New Way headquarters of which was at Büyükada20. of Life, New Structures Due to the cosmopolitan character of As of the beginning of the 18th century, the islanders, the alderman system of the westerners like French and British people islands was so structured that different began to visit the islands, for pleasure, aldermen were in charge of the needs of for trade, and for spending the summer each ethnic group21. there. The Maritime Engineering School, founded at Kasımpaşa in 1733, began As the island populations grew and to gradually move to Heybeliada as of diversified, new religious buildings were 182415, and a large group of Turks settled needed, leading to the building of new as well, adding to the island’s population churches and monasteries, along which, considerably. Another important synagogue and mosque building became educational institution of the time on Image 7. Büyükada Con Paşa Mansion designed by Image 8. Sabuncakis Mansion with its the islands was the Christian Orthodox architect Poliçis in 1880 neoclassical facades Clerical School at Heybeliada, set in a 16 Schlumberger, ibid.,154. forest on a hill. It is made up of a group 17 Z. Çelik, 19. Yüzyılda Osmanlı Başkenti-Değişen İstanbul, Tarih Vakfı Yurt Yayınları, İstanbul, 1986, 70-71. 18 Arşaluys Araratyan Gazetesi, 7 Oct. 1844, İzmir. of buildings, put up in steps since the 19 O. N. Ergin, Mecelle-i Umûr-ı Belediyye, İBB Kültür İşleri Daire Başkanlığı yay. 21, 1995, v.3, 1345, 1346, 1379, 1386. 20 Ergin, ay., v.3, 1347, 1379,1383, 1384; v.4, 1486,1626. Image 4. Heybeliada in the 19th Century 21 İ. Dağdelen, “Osmanlı Arşiv Belgeleri ve Diğer Bazı Kaynaklara Göre Osmanlı Döneminde Adalar (Yerel Tarih Araştırması Örneği)”, I. İstanbul Adaları Sempozyumu, Adalar Kültür derneği yay.,İstanbul 2015, 51. 14 H. Milas, Geçmişten Bugüne Yunanlılar-Dil, Din ve Kimlikleri, İstanbul 2003, 224. 15 Schlumberger, ibid., 155; N.Ertuğ, Osmanlı Döneminde İstanbul Deniz Ulaşımı ve Kayıkçılar, Ministry of Culture Publ., 2755, Ankara 2001, 186, R. E. Koçu, İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, c.1, İstanbul, 1958, 207. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 79 2016 builders who equipped those buildings sanatoriums. It is known that during children could bathe in the sea and sun with quite advanced technologies for the epidemies seen in İstanbul during themselves. The first İstanbul sanatorium During the 19th century the their time, and shaped the physical and after the 16th century, some citizens for adults came in 1923, The Büyükada appearance of the new lifestyle (Image 6). chose to (or had to) get away from the Verem Sanatoryumu32. The first publicly islands became popular with city and take residence temporarily at owned one, though, opened in 1924 at Some interesting examples of the period a place with clean healthy air29, which Heybeliada Çamlimanı33. This building the minorities and Levantaine are Con Paşa Köşkü, Haçopulo Köşkü, boosted the population of the islands for grew in size with new additions, and gave groups, as well as the people Kalvokoresis Yalı Köşkü, Mazlum Bey a while. In 1895, Abdulhmid II asked the important service in the country’s fight Köşkü, Mizzi Köşkü, Yelkencizade Royal Medical School to research into against tuberculosis until 1925, while in the higher bureaucracy of Köşkü, Azaryan Köşkü (lost in a fire) at protection measures against tuberculosis, the Dr. Medenî Berk Preventorium on Büyükada, Hulusi Bey Köşkü, İlyasko and a scientific committee meeting was the shore of Burgazada (opened in 1928) the Ottoman Empire. They Yalısı, Mari Köşkü at Heybeliada, held, during which, it was remarked remained in service until 194034. Its land Kevencioğlu Köşkü (lost in a fire) at that the climate of the Prince Islands and some of its buildings are still there were used for summer houses, Burgazada, Sirakyan Twin Houses at was very suitable for sanatoriums30. today. Kınalıada25 (Image 7-11). Soon, the first sanatorium of İstanbul and some eminent architects opened in Burgazada under the name Exiles of the 20th Century The Islands have gone through some Saint George Burgazadası Children’s Islands became a place of exile once again of the time built magnificent 26 Image 9. Amalia Mansion at Büyükada Image 10. A detail from the facade of Mizzi Man- devastating earthquakes throughout Sanatorium, to accept its patients in in the beginning of the 20th century. 31 sion (Büyükada) history, one especially damaging summer seasons . It stood at the top of After the declaration of Constitutional mansions in the middle of rich such calamity being the one that took a hill on Burgazada, and a while later, a more significant as well. At times, the heterogenous structure of the Ottoman Monarchy in 1908 and the dethroning of place in 1894. Many of the collapsed second building was added to it, so as the floral gardens, bringing together stones and foundations of the old remains society, more so of the İstanbul society monuments and private buildings27 were used in the new constructions22. during the 19th century, created a rich, were of masonry, while the wooden the western architectural During 1892-93, Büyükada, was endowed colorful and elite Western lifestyle on ones were able to endure the incident with the Hamidiye (Selvili) Mosque, built the Islands. Large mansions and hotels with less harm28. Construction activities styles with civillian approaches, on the instructions of Abdulhamid II, were added to the ongoing building gained momentum towards the end of and it turned out to reflect the eclectic/ using an altogether new activities of monasteries, churches and the century and the action continued elitist style of the period, with its schools. The Giacomo/Spendid Hotels, up to the beginning of the First World architectural details and the shaping of its and Ankara Palas at Büyükada, Halki interpretation. 23 War. During the same time, new public facade . Palas and Grande Britania/ Karamanyan and private buildings were put up, urban Starting with Büyükada, the multicultural Hotel at Heybeliada, Hotel Antigoni/ adjustments were made, and much of Burgaz Palas at Burgaz can be given as the earthquake damage was repaired or examples. Some have dissapeared in time, renovated, hence the Islands gained a some were renovated and changed to a new appearance. large extent, but one interesting example of that period is the building of architect A Healthy Environment, A. Vallaury at Büyükada, initially the A Health Bestowing Prinkipo Palas, but used as a Greek Environment Orphanage later on; a wooden frame The mild and serene atmosphere of structure with projections of different the Islands is perfect for building levels racing each other in their length, an immense, very special and interesting Image 12. Büyükada Anatolia Club building, built on the winner project of a competition building (Image 5). 25 For names of houses, ref: Y. Kahya, “İstanbul Adaları”, İstanbul Mimarlık Rehberi – Boğaziçi ve Asya Yakası, ed. A. Batur, Mimarlar Odası yay., İstanbul 2015, 172-208 catalogue. 26 An anonymus diary on 1894 İstanbul Earthquake, prep. S. Çalık, Üsküdar Belediyesi yay.11, 26-29, 67; S. Küçükalioğlu Özkılınç, 1894 Depremi ve İstanbul, İş Bankası Kültür yay., Due to certain problems in operational İstanbul, 2015, 97; İstanbul Depremleri Fotoğraf ve Belgelerde 1894 Depremi, prep. M. Genç and M. Mazak, 2. print, İGDAŞ Kültürel yay., İstanbul, 2001, 58. licences, a Patriarchy decision was 27 M. Genç, M. Mazak, ay. 31 v.d.; F. Öztin, 10 July 1894 İstanbul Depremi Raporu, Bayındırlık ve İskan Bakanlığı Afet İşleri Gn. Md. Deprem Araştırma Dairesi, Ankara, 1994, 80-87; taken in 1902 that turned it into an Sakin, Tarihsel Kaynaklarıyla İstanbul Depremleri, İstanbul, 2002, 133. 28 Poridis, ay., 272. 24 orphanage . Fotiadis, Little Nikolaidis, 29 Türk Mektupları (Turkish Letters), Observations of a European Ambassador during the reign of Kanunî Suleyman (Suleiman the Magnificent) (1555-1560). Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, D’Aranco, Vallaury, Kaludis, Poliçis, translated by D. Türkömer, İş Bankası Kültür yay., 3rd reprint, İstanbul 2014, 198,199; Schlumberger, ibid., 154; C. Pinquet, “Bir Takımadayla İlgili Değerlendirmeler: Prens Adaları” (“Evaluations Concerning an Archipelago: Prince’s Islands”)İstanbul Araştırmaları Yıllığı, v.3, İstanbul, 2014, 96; O. Erdenen, ibid., 45. Azaryan, Dimadis and his foreman 30 N. Yıldırım, İstanbul’un Sağlık Tarihi, İstanbul, 2010, 93-94, 407, Erdenen, 45. Dimitri, Foreman Dimopulos, Foreman 31 Yıldırım, ay., 98-99. 32 Opened by Dr. Musa Kazım. Yıldırım, ay.,98. Image 11. Yelkencizade Mansion where plant forms were used as architectural elements Niko, Foreman Samata were the able 33 Yıldırım, 96, 98 ve 99 v.d.; BOA, MF.MKT, 1232/95-5: “Letter by the Ministry of Education to the Grand Vizier’s Office, dated May 27, 1918, stating that the Ottoman land needs a san- atorium just like in the foreign countries, that the best option among suitable places would be Heybeliada, and that there already is an vacant building there, belonging to the army, 22 Burgazada’da Aya Yani/Prodromos Church, Hristos/Metamorphosis Church, Büyükada Aya Yorgi Church, Hristos/Metamorphosis Church, Heybeliada Aya Triada Monastery Church that could be used as a sanatorium, and demanding that the said building be transferred to the ownership of the Ministry of Education for this purpose.” Belgelerde İstanbul Adaları, could be some examples. (Documented Information on İstanbul Islands) ed. C. Ekici, Adalar Kültür Derneği yay. 12, İstanbul 2010, 262 . 23 Milas, ibid., 132. 34 P. Tuğlacı, Tarih Boyunca İstanbul Adaları, v.2, İstanbul 1992, 278. 24 Y. L. Zarifi, Hatırlarım: Kaybolan Bir Dünya İstanbul 1800-1920, İstanbul, 2005. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 81 2016 Abdulhamid II, the prominent (but out Islands have been an inspiration to came to Büyükada every summer to be of favour) people that were sent on exile many prominent artists and writers present at the balls and meetings, and were known to the islanders as ‘Island of the world. Sait Faik Abasıyanık, hosted his colleagues and foreign guests Guests’35. Some White Russians who Nurullah Ataç, Recaizade Mahmut there. The Anadolu Kulübü opened escaped from the Russian Revolution Ekrem, Reşat Nuri Güntekin, Hüseyin in 1926, replacing the Yachting Club of 1917 and took refuge in İstanbul Rahmi Gürpınar, Ahmet Rasim are all dated to 1906. The Club certainly gets a were also sent to live in the houses and well known names of Turkish literature, lot of interest, mainly for the historical 38 monasteries on the islands36. While life who have long since passed away, that structures that exist on its grounds , but on the islands was rich and serene until wrote their books and/or poems there, just as much, perhaps, for its modernist the First World War began, that war had just like many contemporary names that building put up during 1951-57 by T. 39 caused a lot of stress and discomfort, and choose to do the same today. Some of the Cansever and A. Hancı (Image 12). with some of the Greek citizens leaving houses they lived in have been turned İsmet İnönü, who visited Heybeliada during 1924 for a while, in order to have the country, the Islands had lost their into museums where their personal a rest for his health problems, eventually bustling vitality. But the New Residents belongings are exhibited. İstanbul’s epic bought a house there, and he used to re-injected the social life with some poet Yahya Kemal Beyatlı chose the pay frequent visits to Büyükada Anatolia stamina once again. When L. Trotsky, islands as the theme for many of his Image 16. Mansions surrounded by their gardens Image 17. Yali mansions set in their large gardens on the shore Club when he was there. The Mavromatis rich in diversity of plants a leader of the October Revolution, a poems, some of which are known to the Köşkü, built on the plot of land where an (Second World War) years, the islands Catholics, Latin Catholics, Assyrians, for the basements and first floors to politician as well as a theoretician, was younger generations as lyrics of popular old wooden house had collapsed during began to lose some of their minority Keldany, Sepharade Jews, Ashkenazi be built in masonry, with upper floors expelled from Russia in 1929, he was songs. the 1894 earthquake, is now known as population due to the stressful political Jews, Karait Jews, Levantines, Italians, either in wood, or again in masonry. sent to live at Büyükada with his family ‘İsmet İnönü Evi’, and with its furnishings climate of the 1960-70 period. On the Bulgarians, Jugoslavs, Swedes, Germans, At times, brick walls are used together and his servants, very much under police Republic Era reflecting the İnönü era, it lends its other hand, the domestic migrations with jack-arch floors, new concepts and protection, and wrote his diaries titled After the proclamation of the Republic, gardens to a variety of cultural and and Austrians – living all together, in 37 interpretations leading to a diversification ‘My Life’ while he was there . the islands gained significance once artistic functions each summer. triggered initially by the Erzincan their different religions, denominations, 41 again, this time through the interest earthquake of 1939, were on the rise, and and ethnic roots . in architecture. These magnificent buildings have sloping gardens rich in An Inspiring Environment shown by Atatürk, as well as by the Following the increasing interest shown consequently the demographic make- 40 their flora, and indoor, outdoor, and With their nature-enriched living government bureaucracy and the İstanbul by the minorities, the upper income level up of the islands began to change , as a The Urban Pattern and the semi-open sitting areas and service conditions and their picturesque beauty, bourgeoisie. From 1928 onwards, Atatürk people and the politicians in post war result of which, many of the mansions Architectural Styles facilities (Image 15 -16). On the shore had to change hands. Today, as summer One observes two different styles of one sees some villas with their own docks homes are very much ‘in’, the islands settling in the urban pattern of the and piers, having the island’s skyline meet mostly host a mixed population made up islands42. In the central areas near the with the sea (Image 17). of Turks (the majority), Sunnis, Alawis, pier and the markets, we see houses of Kurds, Laz (Pontus), Greek Orthodox, two or three stories, built attached to The houses planned during the last Armenian Gregorians, Armenian each other. Many of these more modest quarter of the 19th and early 20th century homes, having been built at the turn of generally reflect traditional influences, the century, have stone built lower stories with their Classical, Gothic, Renaissance, and wooden upper levels. But then, Baroque facades, but still, their among them one can spot some built reinterpreted western styles have been in 1940-60 with the Art-Deco-Bauhaus adapted to civillian architecture. Among influences, quite modern in their lines, the Neo-classical, Neo-renaissance, Neo- using stone or reinforced concrete (Image baroque, and Empire styles, you can see 13-14). These buildings can be houses, or some built in early 20th century reflecting apartment buildings, too. Art-Nouveau elements applied to wooden structures, thus creating the ‘İstanbul As you move away from the central Art-Nouveau’,43 and at times you can spot areas, though, you see large, monumental different styles on the same building, with Image 13 - 14. More modest Modernist houses spread on the land farther away from the shores Image 15. Island skyline formed by buildings positioned in harmony with the inclinations of the houses set in gardens. The opportunities select/eclectic approaches. The semi-open topography presented by the free, stand alone sitting areas, like balconies and verandas, building licences, have allowed the seem to be the marks of the open 35 R.E. Koçu, “Adalar”, İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, v.2, İstanbul, 1959, Quoted by Erdenen, ibid., 53 and Milas, ibid., 152,153. development of an original/experimental lifestyle of the islands reflecting onto 36 T.A. Baran, “Mütareke Döneminde İstanbul’daki Rus Mültecilerin Yaşamı”, Atatürk Araştırma Merkezi Dergisi, V.12, March-July-November 2006, issue 64-66. 37 Lev Troçki wrote his (1879-1940) autobiography, and his three other works in İstanbul (Tahrif Edilen İhtilal, Sovyetler Birliği’nin Müdafaası ve Muhalefet, Komünist Enternasyonal’in architectural style. The slopes are suitable architecture. The most remarkable ones, Üçüncü Hatalar Devri, Daimi İhtilal, Rus İhtilalinin Tarihi). Ö. S. Coşar, Troçki İstanbul'da, İş Bankası Kültür yay., 3.print, İstanbul, 2015, 201. Image 18. Kınalıada Mosque 38 27.000 sq.m. of land was used for the historical building of the Club, where a total of five structures stand: Historical Building, Twin Pavillons, Yellow Building and New Building. 39 “Anadolu Kulübü Binası”, Arkitekt, issue: 295,59, 45-52. 40 K. Yılmaz, “20.yüzyılın ikinci yarısından sonra yaşanan göçlerin Adalar’daki sosyo-ekonomik yaşama etkisi”, I. İstanbul Adaları Sempozyumu, Adalar Kültür Derneği publ. 11, İstanbul 2015, 79, 80. 41 R. Schild, “Burgazada Canlı Etnografik Müze”, İstanbul Dergisi Tarih Vakfı publ., İstanbul 1998, 26, 121-123. 42 Y. Kahya, “İstanbul Adaları Üzerine” I. İstanbul Adaları Sempozyumu, Adalar Kültür Derneği publ. 11, İstanbul 2015, 31. İSTANBUL 43 A. Batur dates this period to between 1905 and 1925. A. Batur, “İstanbul Art Nouveau’su”, Tanzimattan Cumhuriyete Türkiye Ansiklopedisi, v.4, İletişim yay., SPECIAL ISSUE 83 İstanbul 1985, 1088. 2016 be it in size or in style, are mostly found at Büyükada. Building of the impressive mansions somehow continued into the Considering the cosmopolitan 20th century – while during the forties, a re-interpretation of traditional homes quality of the population, the came with a more nationalist character; alderman system on the islands after the Second World War a plain modernist style became dominant. With was structured to accomodate the use of reinforced concrete frames, modernist influences reflected themselves all residents, by giving each onto architecture. At Büyükada, the Rıza Derviş House and the Fethi Okyar House national group their own were designed by S.H.Eldem, the Kamhi- Grünberg Twin Villas by E. Sarfati, and alderman. in Burgazada the Goldenberg House, are buildings in modern design. Interestingly, in Kınalıada, the Kınalıada Mosque examples on the islands which kept to the designed by T. Uyaroğlu (Image 18) and Ottoman traditional style (Image 19). B. Acarlı, is an interesting application of the modernism observed in houses These examples of civillian architecture, reflecting onto mosque architecture. The which presents a rich variety in their Image 19. The Ataç House where traditional archi- Burgazada Ataç House built in later times styles and typologies, contain elements tecture is re-interpreted by T. And F. Cansever is one of the few of the taste of the period they were built

Image 21. A view of Heybeliada and Kaşık island from Burgazada

in, as well as the individual tastes as traffic allowed. The topography and been able to keep - to a large extend - to the shaping of their facades, come the natural beauty, the organic streets their original natural, historical, urban together with the monumental structures reflecting the historical pattern, the and cultural characteristics, making them of different religions and cultures, impressive stone and wooden structures a unique environment. (Image 21). representing the wholesome character bred by a very special architectural of the Islands’ architecture and their approach, all come together to create a urban pattern (Image 20). A large part of unique lifestyle. References of Images this architectural richness is now under Figure 1. A. Yetişkin Kubilay, Maps of protection as one single pattern. In 1976, The Islands present a special lifestyle for İstanbul, 1422-1922, İstanbul 2010: 231. Büyükada, Heybeli, Burgaz, Kınalı, and many different communities, minorities Figure 2. E. Mamboury, Les İles des Princes. Sedef islands were registered as natural being one of the important ones. The Banlieue maritime d'İstanbul, İstanbul 1943. protected areas44, and in 1984, ‘Marmara historical, religious, sacred and spiritual Image 1, 3, 11. Y.Kahya Archipelago’ as a whole, followed suit45. elements provided by the Islands’ Image 2. A. I. Melling, Atatürk Kitaplığı, landscape, along with their culture of AlbümlerAb_000002_006_001. At the Sedef Adası, however, with the horse-carriages, cycling, group picnics Image 4. Sebah-Joaillier, 9, DAI building of a closed complex of summer and entertainment, concerts, swimming, İstanbul, Negatif No.9407 (D-DAI IST- houses in the mid-fifties, the island’s sea sports and competitions, create a 9407_8002138,05.jpeg) public areas are now limited to daily use. synergy with the physical environment, Image 5-10, 12, 15-17, 18, 20, 21. A. Neftçi The above mentioned settlement contains give the Islands a characteristic urban- Image 13, 14, 19. S. Karsan pioneering samples of modern house cultural landscape47. design, and is now an ‘urban protected area46’. So close to the metropolis of İstanbul, yet so far from its high pace and its stress, Landscape Islands offer a slow life within their The Islands offer a low pace, safe and special natural/urban environment, and secure lifestyle, as there is no motorized despite the passage of time, they have

44 GEEAYK decision of 10 December 1976 n.9500 declares all Islands as natural protected areas. 45 KTVYK 31.03.1984/ 234 n. decision. Image 20. View of Büyükada shore and its pier 46 KTVKBK 09.12.2009/ 2201 n. decision. 47 S. Karsan, “Kültürel Peyzaj Alanı Olarak Büyükada”, I. İstanbul Adaları Sempozyumu, 3-6 October 2013, İstanbul 2015, 460-469. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 85 2016 İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

Prof. Dr. F. Cânâ Bilsel DILEMMA of the CONSERVATION of CULTURAL HERITAGE and MODERNIZATION Middle East Technical University 1 Department of Architecture in the EARLY REPUBLICAN PLANNING of İSTANBUL [email protected]

1 The present article is partly based on the research conducted by the author in the personal archieve of Henri Prost in Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, Archives d’Architecture du XXe Siècle in Paris. The research was jointly supported by TÜBİTAK and EGIDE within the framework of Bosphorus Programme in September 2004 and Turkish Academy of Sciences in October-January 2005. The visual materials are from the Henri Prost archieve of Académie d’Architecture held by Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, Archives d’Architecture du XXe Siècle if not indicated differently. The capital of the Eastern Roman and the demolition of significant historic the urban infrastructure and spaces, had exceeded one million before the Ottoman Empires for nearly 1600 monuments including some parts of Atik including the creation of public gardens, First World War, decreased to 740.000 years, İstanbul abounds with vestiges The land walls were declared Ali Pasha Madrasa, Köprülü Madrasa In awareness that the history squares and plazas, and the opening of inhabitants in 1930s. Although a number of an imperial past.2 As in many other among others.6 Nevertheless, in the same of İstanbul belongs not to any avenues. When the opening of a grand of interventions such as the widening of world cities, in İstanbul, too, the as ‘ancient assets’ for the first period, certain important initiatives, i.e. plaza between Hagia Sophia and Sultan the tramway avenue between Fatih and conservation of the historic monuments the foundation of Müze-i Hümayûn -the single nation, but to the whole Ahmet Mosque in the Hippodrome area Edirnekapı, the traffic arrangement in and sites emerged as a modern practice time in 1884, by a firman from Imperial Museum [of Archaeology]- and was being considered, the campaign Beyazıt Square were undertaken in this in response to the rapid destruction the enactment of the first regulation for of humanity, the Republican lead by the Association of the Friends period, large areas devastated by fires caused by urban development. The the Sultan. Following the 1894 the protection of antiquities in 1869, of İstanbul saved Haseki Hürrem still awaited to be rebuilt. The historic dilemma of modernization versus earthquake, a decision was marked the beginning of the history ideology adopted a plan to Sultan Hamam –a work of Architect city of İstanbul was in ruins, due to the conservation presented itself as early of conservation of archaeological and Sinan- from being demolished. Other socio-economic depression caused by as the late Ottoman period, during the taken to repair the collapsed architectural heritage in Turkey.7 In create an Archaeological Park historical buildings were also saved long lasting wars since the end of the first planned modernization of the city. by the opposition of the Ministry nineteenth century. Numerous religious 1884, the city walls were declared as 14 In the first half of the twentieth century parts of the walls, while the “antiquities” for the first time in an in the heart of the city, as a of Evkaf . Despite such significant and civic buildings, which had been once when the new Republican government imperial firman, which ordered their initiatives, however, several other historic maintained by pious foundations –the monuments were damaged because of undertook the master plan of İstanbul, still standing structure of conservation at the highest level.8 After sign stressing the ties between wakfs- were abandoned and ruined. Halil the municipality’s operations, during the the modernization or conservation of the the earthquake of 1894, a decision issued Edhem Bey, member of the Council opening of avenues for the installation city presented once more a significant the Covered Bazaar was also by the Ministry of Interior required the Republic of Turkey and the of Antiquities, wrote in a report: “If of tramway lines in particular. With dilemma. Paradoxically, the first policies the repairing of the parts of the walls we were to pass by one of the many universal human history. the objective of preventing historic for the conservation of cultural and declared ‘ancient asset’ that had fallen apart, pointing out their burned areas in the city, we would see monuments from being destroyed, a natural heritage at an urban scale were historic significance. In a report written hundreds of mosque ruins, wrecked developed within the framework of the at that occasion. council was founded, by the Ministry tombs and cemetery remains. These are for the reconstruction of some parts of A civil society, the Association of the early Republican city planning, the main of Education in 1917. The Council of beyond being repaired and restored. the Grand Bazaar damaged by the same Friends of İstanbul founded in 1911, Antiquities15 goal of which was the modernization of , which was composed of Their presence in destitution, on the end of the century, the urban fabric of the earthquake, the existing structures of the was particularly concerned with the director of Museums Halil Edhem the city. other hand, is a shame for our city…” historic city of İstanbul was transformed old bazaar were also qualified as “ancient the conservation of antiquities and (Eldem) Bey, architect Kemalettin Bey16, And he concluded as: “Today İstanbul into a patchwork as a result of numerous works” although their reconstruction historic monuments in the city12. The art historian Celâl Esad (Arseven) The Ottoman reforms initiated with the is the greatest ruined city (virane) of the piecemeal reconstructions. according to the requirements of the association did significant work for among others, continued its function declaration of the Tanzimat in 1839, world… some buildings can be sacrificed contemporary technology of architecture the conservation of the city walls and during the Republican period, until which aimed at the institutional and to put an end to this situation18.” societal modernization of the Empire, The first reactions for safeguarding was finally recommended⁹. The Boukoleon Palace, for the cleaning of 1950s when it was renamed the Higher 17 comprised also a comprehensive project historic buildings from destruction, Regulation of Antiquities issued in 1906, Rumelihisar, the surveying of Amcazade Council of Antiquities and Monuments. of transforming the urban space.3 This dated back to the urban interventions contained articles for the protection of Hüseyin Pasha’s mansion on Bosphorus, The foundation of the Republic in project sought to reshape the Ottoman initiated by progressive administrators of historic buildings, besides archaeological besides the preparation of an İstanbul 1923 definitely marked a rupture in the Despite the fact that Turkey capital after the image of contemporary mid-nineteenth century. The demolition vestiges, and included measures for guide13. The activities of this association political history of Turkey, yet there 10 first made her application to European cities, by opening wide of a number of religious buildings and the provision of funds for this end . were effective also in safeguarding a were also continuities that the Republic avenues, plazas and squares, and this was removal of cemeteries undertaken by However, the first Regulation for the number of significant Ottoman buildings inherited from the late Ottoman period. the UNESCO for protection of to be achieved by the implementation of the Commission of the Improvement Conservation of Monuments was issued endangered. The years that followed the street alignment and building regulations. of Roads, during the widening of the in 1912, at a period when the Mayor proclamation of the Second Constitution First Planning Initiatives her historical monuments and These regulations were particularly major street of Divanyolu following Cemil Pasha undertook a series of –known also as the Revolution of the in İstanbul in the Early effective in the rebuilding of the the 1865 Hocapaşa fire, provoked a ambitious urban operations in İstanbul. Young Turks- were, in fact, an eventful Republican Period for the Archaeological Park neighborhoods destroyed by fires, which reaction among the conservative circles.5 The regulation, which defined the city period when the magnitude of the urban When Ankara became the capital of were frequent and highly destructive of However, neither these reactions, nor walls once again as antiquities, did not, interventions and the efforts for the the new Republic of Turkey in 1923, Project as early as 1950, due to the wooden residential built-environment the efforts of the Ministry of Evkaf however, provide a clear definition for conservation of historic monuments are İstanbul was deprived of its status of in particular.4 At the (Pious Foundations) could prevent historic monuments11. concerned. Dr. Cemil Pasha –a surgeon capital city. The limited funds of the political reasons the application educated in Paris, served as the mayor Republic were allocated primarily to 2 S. Yerasimos, “Istanbul: Heritage and Hazards of Modernity,” World Heritage Review 10, 1998: 6-15. 3 Z. Çelik, The Remaking of Istanbul, Portrait of an Ottoman City in the Nineteenth Century. Berkeley, Los Angeles, London, 1993, 49-67, and S. Yerasimos, “A propos des réformes urbaines de of İstanbul twice, from 1912 to 1914 and the new capital and the development process has not been brought to Tanzimat”, Villes Ottomanes à la fin de l’Empire, P. Dumont, F. Georgeon, eds., Paris 1992: 17-32. 1919 to 1920. A determined advocate of of İstanbul was neglected in the first 4 According to Osman Nuri Ergin, archivist and historian of Istanbul, 117 great fires ravaged large areas in Istanbul in half a century between 1853 and 1906. O. N. Ergin, Mecelle-i Umûr-ı Belediyye, a conclusion. vol. 3. Istanbul, 1995: 1228-1235. modernization, he undertook a series decade following the foundation of the 5 Z. Çelik, op.cit., 60-63. of urban operations for modernizing Republic. The city’s population, which 6 While several tombs were demolished, Köprülü’s mausoleum was dismantled and moved elsewhere and a portion of Çemberlitaş Hamam was cut out during these interventions. N. Altınyıldız, “The Architectural Heritage of Istanbul and the Ideology of Preservation”, Muqarnas, 24: 285. 12 Istanbul Şehri Muhipleri Cemiyeti. The director of the Imperial Museum, Halil Edhem Bey, his assistant Makridi Bey, architect Vedad Bey, Prince Said Halim Pasha, the director of the Banque 7 Âsâr-ı Atîka Nizamnamesi enacted in 1869, involved mainly the archaeological remnants and regulating the excavations to be held. E. Madran, “Cumhuriyet’in İlk Otuz Yılında Koruma Alanının Ottomane, M. Revoil, Ahmet Midhat, Dikran Kelekyan were among the founding members of this association. S. Yerasimos, “Le discours sur la protection du patrimoine en Turquie des Tanzimat Örgütlenmesi / Notes on the Organization of the Field of Restoration During the First Thirty Years of the Republic,” METU Journal of Faculty of Architecture 16.1-2, 1996: 61, 88. à nos jours”, the above mentioned article translated into French by J.-F. Pérouse, European Journal of Turkish Studies, Heritage Production in Turkey, Actors, Issues and Scales, Part I, 19, 2014: 3. 8 Firman dated 5 June 1884, cited by O. N. Ergin, op. cit., vol. 4: 1777, and vol. 7: 3894, cited by S. Yerasimos, “Tanzimat’tan Günümüze Türkiye’de Kültürel Mirası Koruma Söylemi”, İstanbul Dergisi 13 A number of renowned international figures, the Byzantinist Charles Diehl, art historian Jean Richepin and Mme Bompard, the wife of the French ambassador supported the association in these 56, 2005. initiatives. S. Yerasimos, ibid. 9 O. N. Ergin, op.cit., vol. 7, p. 3893, cited by S. Yerasimos, “Tanzimat’tan Günümüze…,” op. cit. 14 N. Altınyıldız, op. cit., 284-285. 10 In this new regulation of antiquities -Âsâr-ı Atika Nizamnamesi, enacted in 1906, historic building types such as, mosques, hans, hamams and kümbets were enumerated. E. Madran, op. cit., 62. 15 Âsâr-ı Atika Encümen-i Daimisi, S. Eyice, “İstanbul Eski Eserleri Koruma Encümeni”, Dünden Bugüne İstanbul Ansiklopedisi, vol. 4. Istanbul, 1994, 222. 11 “Muhafaza-i Âbidât Hakkında Nizamname” issued in 30 July 1912, O. N. Ergin, op. cit., vol. 4, 1784, cited by S. Yerasimos, op. cit. 16 Kemalettin Bey who had been the chief architect in the Ministry of Evkaf (Pious Foundations) since 1909, became the director of the technical department at the Municipality of Istanbul in 1914. He was one of the most influential figures in the institutionalization of conservation of historic monuments in Turkey. İ. Tekeli, S. İlkin, Mimar Kemalettin’in Yazdıkları. Ankara,1997. 17 S. Eyice, op. cit., 222. İSTANBUL 18 Halil Ethem, “Âbidelerimizin Hâli,” Tarihi Abide ve Eserlerimizi Korumağa Mecburuz, Maarif Vekâleti. Istanbul, 1933, 5, cited by N. Altınyıldız, op.cit., 289. SPECIAL ISSUE 89 2016 The Republican modernization was to present their ideas and projects for the Henri Prost’s Period in the meant to be more comprehensive and future city in 1933. Prost having declined Planning of İstanbul radical, compared to the Ottoman the invitation, Jacques Lambert replaced Hermann Ehlgötz’s proposal was not put reforms. Town planning, which was him on his advice. The three planners, into implementation, and the French born as a new discipline in the West at came to İstanbul to study the city, and urbanist Henri Prost, who was the chief the turn of the twentieth century, was submitted their proposals toward the end planner of the Greater Paris at that perceived as a scientific and technical of the same year. The competition jury, time, was re-invited as a consultant in expertise for modernizing cities and composed of Turkish parliamentarians the preparation of a master plan for their infrastructure, providing public 22 and officials, having thoroughly studied İstanbul . Prost was renown particularly spaces and facilities that would support with his planning of Moroccan cities, the three entries, finally selected the societal modernization aimed by including Fes, Rabat and Casablanca, the the Republican government in Turkey. Hermann Ehlgötz’s proposal. The implementation of which he conducted In this perspective, European architects German planner’s project, which mainly from 1914 to 192223. Following this and planners, renowned as distinguished contended with minor interventions period, he conducted the regional experts in this field, were invited to on the existing city, while its French planning of Côte Varoise, before he develop plans for the Turkish cities. counterparts proposed to open new was appointed the chief planner for the Following the first competition held for boulevards and plazas, was found “more metropolitan planning of Greater Paris 24 the planning of the new capital Ankara realistic” and also more respectful to the in 1932 . In all these previous planning by an invitation made to three experts of character of the historic city, by the jury. experiences, Prost was acknowledged town planning from Germany and France Indeed, in his project report, Ehlgötz particularly for his sensibility towards the conservation of both the cultural heritage in 1927, the same model was adopted stressed the importance of conserving the Figure 1. Henri Prost’s İstanbul European Side Image 2. The urban blocks to be demolished indicated Image 3. The façade of Yeni Valide Mosque opened and natural landscapes. for İstanbul in 1932. The planning of the Master Plan – Old İstanbul, dated 1937 old city not only with its monuments but on the aerial photograph of Eminönü (Güzelleşen with the demolition of buildings that had blocked historical capital was a critical task not also with its street fabric and cemeteries, İstanbul, 1944) the view (Güzelleşen İstanbul, 1944) The French urbanist, who conducted less important than the construction of protecting the monuments with their 19 which he understood as characteristic the planning of İstanbul, from 1936 to the Republican capital city. In the same surroundings as far as possible . Burhan features of the “oriental civilization.” He 1951, became influential in shaping the period, prominent Turkish architects, Arif argued that only Turkish experts argued that, in İstanbul, there was no future city. The fifteen years of planning Sedad Hakkı (Eldem) and Burhan Arif who knew well the city and understood need to open new parks as in the modern activity in İstanbul covered a wide range (Ongun) wrote articles on the questions its spirit could do the task of planning İstanbul20. However, these points of view cities of the West, instead, he suggested of planning works including the Master of reconstruction and planning of Plan for the European Side of İstanbul apparently did not seem to convince the conserving the old cemeteries as green İstanbul. In his article entitled “İstanbul 21 (1937), Master Plan of the Asian Side government of the time. Three renowned areas . His conservative suggestions, and Urbanism” published in Mimar, (1939), the planning of the two shores of vis-à-vis the historic city, which were Sedad Hakkı deplored the historic city’s architect-planners from France and the Bosphorus (1936-1948), sector plans ruinous condition, and emphasized the Germany were called upon to participate perceived by the jury as being respectful for the existing and new development delicacy of the task of the town planner, in the planning competition held by to the city’s historical “character” areas and numerous detailed urban stressing the necessity of coping with the Municipality of İstanbul. German contained, however, an orientalist tone design projects for plazas, squares, the contemporary developments while planner Hermann Ehlgötz, and French and, although it convinced the jury, it did construction of new avenues, parks paying due attention to the historic architect-urbanists Donate Alfred Agache not meet Republican government’s the and promenades in the city25. In line monuments. He particularly advised and Henri Prost were personally invited expectation. with the anticipation of the Republican government in Turkey, however, he adopted a highly interventionist attitude vis-à-vis the urban fabric of Old İstanbul. In his Master Plan for the European Side of İstanbul, he proposed a complete reorganization of the street fabric by opening new thoroughfares that crossed the city from one side to another. Prost’s master plan was structured around a new transportation network and it contained large green areas, parks and public open spaces, all arranged according to the precepts of the rationalization of 26 Image 4. Henri Prost’s project for the arrangement of Eminönü Square and the proposed road with a per- transportation, hygiene and aesthetics . spective opened toward Süleymaniye Mosque, perspective drawn by P. Jaubert in 1943 (Figure 1)

22 For the details the governor-mayor’s invitation of Henri Prost to Istanbul, see F. C. Bilsel, “Henri Prost’s Planning Works in Istanbul (1936-1951): Transforming the Structure of a City Image 1. Henri Silhouette of the historic peninsula from Golden Horn from Henri through Master Plans and Urban Operations”, F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon, eds., From the Imperial Capital to the Republican Modern City: Henri Prost’s Planning of Istanbul. Istanbul, 2010: 103-107. 23 J.-L. Cohen, “From Grand Landscapes to Metropolises: Henri Prost”, F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon, eds., op. cit., 49-70. 19 Alişanzade Sedad Hakkı, “İstanbul ve Şehircilik,” Mimar 1, 1931:1-4. 24 The Plan d’Aménagement de la Région Parisienne was completed and approved in 1939. J.-P. Gaudin, Desseins de Villes, ‘Art Urbain’ et Urbanisme, 20 Burhan Arif, “İstanbul’un plânı,” Mimar 3/5, 1933:154-161. Anthologie. Paris, 1991: 169. İSTANBUL 21 H. Ehlgötz, “İstanbul Şehrinin Umumî Plânı”, Cumhuriyet Dönemi İstanbul Planlama Raporları: 1934-1995, Ş. Özler (ed.) Istanbul, 2007: 13-38. SPECIAL ISSUE 91 25 F. C. Bilsel, “Henri Prost’s Planning Works in Istanbul...,” F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon, eds., op. cit., 115-165. 2016 26 C. Bilsel, “Les Transformations d’Istanbul: Transformation of Istanbul by Henri Prost”, AIZ Journal of Faculty of Architecture, vol. 8, issue n. 1, Spring 2011: 100-116. buildings, the façades of Yeni Valide Mosque and the Egyptian Bazar were Henri Prost set the targets brought to the fore and the perspective What Prost targeted in his towards Süleymaniye Mosque was planning work, was to protect for his plans on the historical opened28. Other than the arrangement of the traffic and pedestrian spaces, creating the general impression of the city as ‘modernizing the urban a proportional harmony between the horizontal extension of the open space city’s appearance, with special space while protecting the and the built volumes of the mosque was ‘unique landscape and historical one of the urbanist’s primary concerns. care for the skyline of the (Image 2, 3 and 4) Such an aesthetic monuments’. understanding was certainly different historical peninsula and for from the spatial solid-void relation of the preexisting built environment, which keeping in place the natural restrictions that he brought in order to had been characterized by the density preserve the silhouette of the historic Image 8. The Land Walls and Topkapı Gate being of the port and commercial activity in and cultural heritage in the consolidated city. However, it is the “total effect” Eminönü29. of İstanbul’s townscape, which Prost historical areas. envisaged to safeguard together with Inventorying, Conservation the principal monuments, and not the and Re-use of Historical and surveying of national monuments. historic built-environment per se. When Monuments Sedat Çetintaş, who was designated Atatürk Boulevard was first opened, in While adopting an interventionist as the chief architect to this bureau, Figure 2. Historic monuments to be integrated in Park no. 1 and in its vicinity, as proposed in Yedikule-Ye- the early 1940s, it cut through the old attitude towards the urban fabric, elaborated precise survey drawings of nikapı sector plan of 1/2000 scale, 1943 neighborhoods in-between Zeyrek and Henri Prost paid particular attention the principal historic monuments and The Dilemma of Planning: plan, which aimed to combine urban Süleymaniye, causing the demolition of to the historical monuments from complexes of İstanbul. Henri Prost, Modernization and modernization and conservation. the old residential fabric, while the two Byzantine and Ottoman periods in his worked in collaboration with the Council significant Byzantine monuments, the planning studies. Documentation an of Antiquities, Association of the Friends Conservation In his conference, while he pointed to the Aqueduct of Valens and Zeyrek Mosque inventorying of these monuments had of İstanbul and later the French and In his conference entitled “Les necessity of opening new transportation (Pantocrator Monastery) were brought to started to be conducted in İstanbul by British Institutes of Archaeology in order Transformations d’İstanbul27” that he arteries in order to enhance the the fore. the Directory of the Antiquities and to determine the historic monuments gave at the Académie des Beaux-Arts in commercial and industrial development Museums, founded under the Ministry and vestiges to be preserved by planning Paris in 1947, Henri Prost indicated the 30 of the city, he emphasized the Urban aesthetics was, indeed, pivotal in of Education, and reorganized in 1933 . decisions. He asserted in his reports main goal of his planning in İstanbul as preservation of the historical landscape Prost’s planning, that reflected an almost Image 9. Edirnekapı Gate and the Land Walls, photo- A bureau of architectural survey was also that these historic buildings had to be modernizing the city, a goal determined of İstanbul. In his planning of Old baroque approach to urbanism. In the graph dated 1947 founded under the General Directory protected, restored and carried into by the socio-political circumstances of İstanbul, Henri Prost worked especially Master Plan for Old İstanbul, perspective of Antiquities for the documentation the future as “monuments” that “stand the period in Turkey. Yet he compared for the conservation of the silhouette axes opened on significant monuments the modernization of İstanbul to a of the historic city through a number of the city such as the grand mosques. “chirurgical operation,” stressing that of planning decisions devised for this The arrangement of Eminönü Square special attention had to be paid to the purpose. (Image 1) Limitation of building in 1940s, illustrated such an aesthetical historical heritage of the city. In this heights above 40 m altitude from the understanding. The square was widened perspective, he put forward a master sea level was one of the well-known by the demolition of surrounding

Image 10. Hypothetical Restitution of Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome and the Imperial Palace, perspective drawing. Henri Prost’s study within the framework of Prix de Rome programme of Académie de France in Rome, 1905-1907. (Académie d’Architecture/Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine/Archives d’Architecture du XXe Siècle, 343 AA 144 (doc. HP.DES.10-2.2)).

28 “Eminönü Meydanı”, Güzelleşen İstanbul, XX. Yıl. Istanbul, 1944. Image 5. Mihrimah Mosque, a work of Architect Sinan Image 6. A view from the Medrese of Sultan Image 7. View of the türbe (mausoleum) next 29 C. Bilsel, T. Arıcan Çin, “Eminönü Meydanı ve Çevresi Tarihi Kent Mekânının Başkalaşımı: Kentsel Tasarım Kuramları ve Biçim-bilim Yöntemleri ile bir Mekânsal Çözümleme Çalışması”, Mimar.İst, 8. 29, 2008: 83-97. Selim in 1947 to the Medrese of Sultan Selim in 1947 30 E. Madran, Tanzimat’tan Cumhuriyete Kültür Varlıklarının Korunmasına İlişkin Tutumlar ve Düzenlemeler:1800-1950, Ankara, 2002, 119 and N. Candaş Kahya, İSTANBUL 27 H. Prost, Communication de Henri Prost, 17 Septembre 1947 à l’Académie des Beaux-Arts, Institut de France, Les Transformations d’Istanbul. A. Sağsöz, S. Al, “Türkiye’de Korumacılık ve Kültür ve Tabiat Varlıklarının Koruma Bilincinin Gelişimi: 1938-1960 Dönemi”, Turkish Studies, 9.10, 2014: 278. SPECIAL ISSUE 93 unpublished conference, 1947. 2016 Figure 3. The plan of the Archaeological Park and Image 11. Sultan Ahmet Mosque, Ayasofya Square and Sultanahmet Square within the Archaeological Park the historic monuments that it embraces, “based on 32 the studies held by Henri Prost and the engineers composition .” The planner’s approach were to be re-used for cultural activities. and architects of the Urban Planning Department to different kinds of historical buildings (Images 5 to 7) of İstanbul Municipality between 1936 and 1947.” was best exemplified in the Park no. Image 14. The aerial photograph of the Archaeology Park, showing the archaeological excavation areas next to Sultan Ahmet Mosque and Hagia Sophia (Académie d’Architecture/Cité de l’Architecture et du 1 that Prost proposed to create along Labeled as historic monuments, Patrimoine/Archives d’Architecture du XXe Siècle, 343 Bayrampaşa (Lycos) Creek. (Figure 2) the conservation of the Byzantine AA 47/3 (doc. HP.DES.32-1.1)) In this park, the historic monuments – fortifications was one of the significant 31 testimony to the history” of the city . Fenari İsa Mosque (Byzantine Monastery concerns of Prost’s planning in He searched for ways of reintegrating of Constantine Lips), Selimiye Madrasa İstanbul. He spent particular efforts dilapidated historic structures, which and Architect Sinan’s Mihrimah Mosque for the preservation and restoration of were out of use, by giving them new in Edirnekapı- were to be incorporated as Theodosian Land Walls in particular. In functions as “picturesque monuments picturesque elements into the landscape the Master Plan of Old İstanbul, a zone to be contemplated together with the design and except Mihrimah Mosque, the of non-aedificandi, was imposed to form monumental trees that completed the other buildings, which were dilapidated, a green belt where construction was to

Image 15. Ruins of Arasta on the east of Sultan Image 16. Dilapidated structures of Sultan Ahmet Arasta Ahmet Mosque

Image 12. Haseki Hürem Sultan Hamam, work Image 13. The Fountain of Ahmet III in front of the main gate of Topkapı Palace, within the of Architect Sinan, located next to Ayasofya Archaeological Park Square

31 H. Prost, “Protection des sites et transformation de certains édifices”, note C, 29 June 1936, Les Transformations d’Istanbul, vol. III, 6, cited by F. C. Bilsel, Image 17. Sultan Ahmet Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Archaeological Park area seen from Üsküdar at the other side of Bosphorus “Henri Prost’s Planning Works in Istanbul...” F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon, eds., op. cit., 128-129. 32 H. Prost, Communication… , op. cit., 16-17. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 95 2016 located had been cleared by a recent fire, the area surrounding Hagia Sophia, losing its urban integrity and historic which enabled the implementation of the Sultanahmet Mosque and the Plaza of character in 1930s and 1940s. In a report project. But, given the present division of Sultan Ahmet, as a protection area, for where Henri Prost proposed Eyüp as a the area into multiple private properties, the first time in 195341. “site to be preserved,” he highlighted the their expropriation would bring a “picturesque unity” of this funerary site considerable burden to the municipality. “Sites de Protection”: and aimed at protecting the whole area Although the Park of Archaeology could A Tool for Preserving the as an urban ensemble43. (Images 18-20) not be implemented in its totality, the “Picturesque Unity” of the Recommendations by the Commission of British archaeologists excavated parts of Landscape Ancient Monuments were also supported the Byzantine imperial palace and found Prost’s proposal. The commission helped The approach to conservation during the mosaics of the palace; a new museum this period was mostly limited to the planner identify “the religious was to be built to display the mosaics single monuments and archaeological monuments to be preserved” in the area. in situ. In the meantime, Albert Gabriel sites. Although Henri Prost’s planning It was due to Prost’s planning decision Image 18. The aerial photograph of Eyüp funerary site Image 19. View from a path cutting through the Image 20. View from Zal Mahmut Paşa Complex near sent to UNESCO, a “Memorandum that Eyüp became Turkey’s first urban and the industrial plants on the shore of Golden Horn cemeteries of Eyüp Eyüp, photograph dated 1944 decisions in the historic city exemplified regarding the archaeological discovery of understanding, it is also important to “site of preservation.” the Imperial district of Constantinople” stress here the idea of “site de protection” The restitution of the Basilica of Hagia to Atatürk’s declaration about Hagia dated 31 July 1947. It is interesting to that he introduced as a planning tool in In his planning reports, Prost employed Sophia and that of the Byzantine imperial Sophia, the architect-planner asserted The concept of ‘protected area’ note that the Turkish National Assembly İstanbul, as early as 1940s42. The first area a similar notion of “picturesque unity” palace in the seventh century constituted that the history of İstanbul belonged approved the UNESCO Agreement that was declared a site to be preserved to describe other sites such as the the subject of his research project34. to all humanity, rather than to one on 30 May 194639. A year later, he cemetery of Karacaahmet on the Asian is a significant contribution 36 was the historic neighborhood of Eyüp, (Image 10) Prost’s attention towards nation or another . Prost’s proposal for presented a second memorandum located on the Golden Horn outside side, (Images 21, 22) and the settlements of Prost to planning and the Byzantine heritage of İstanbul creating an archaeological park at the entitled “The Archaeological Park the walled city. The Muslims consider on both sides of Bosphorus, which reflected later in his planning proposals heart of İstanbul was well received by the of İstanbul” in the Byzantine Studies this neighborhood, where the tomb of were documented with numerous applications; this concept and reports. He attributed a particular Republican authorities and by Atatürk Conference held in Paris. Turkey’s Ayyub al Ansari -called as Eyüp Sultan photographs. Faced with a scattered importance to archaeology as a means of in particular, as it linked the history of first application to UNESCO for the by Turks- is situated, a holy site. With development of coal yards, fuel tanks has later been transposed to bringing to light the memory of the past the Republic of Turkey to the universal conservation of historical monuments its topographic location overlooking the and industrial plants, preserving the ages of the city. history of humanity37. and the implementation of the Park of Golden Horn, western travellers and “incomparable landscape” of both Turkey’s protection laws. Archaeology project was initiated, in writers also revered this site, composed sides of Bosphorus was one of the The proposal of creating a park of Henri Prost continued to work on the 1950s, based on Prost’s and Gabriel’s of religious complexes, tombs and planner’s principal concerns. Although archaeology first appeared in Prost’s implementation of the Archaeology reports, although it could not be cemeteries, for its beautiful landscape and the planning of the settlements along be prohibited. Covering an area of 500 Master Plan of İstanbul Old City as early Park, in collaboration with the concluded for political reasons40. atmosphere. Surrounded by the industrial Bosphorus extended to a long period m. outside and 50 m. inside the land as 1937. Located at the eastern tip of the Archaeology Institutes, which conducted Nevertheless, the Higher Committee of sprawl around Golden Horn, however, from 1939 to 1948, preserving the walls, this green strip was suggested to historic peninsula, the archaeology park excavations in the area, until he left Antiquities and Monuments declared Eyüp was confronted with the risk of integrity of natural and man-made conserve the walls in their integrity and extended from Kadırga at the west, to in 1951. Albert Gabriel, who was to accentuate their monumental total Bahçekapı at the east, and incorporated the founder and director of French effect. The restoration of the fortifications Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome and the Archaeological Institute of İstanbul, was and gates started in 1940s as part of the remains of the Byzantine Imperial Palace, highly supportive of the Archaeology commemoration program of the 500th Sultan Ahmet Mosque, Topkapı Palace Park initiative in particular. Prost and anniversary of the Ottoman conquest of 33 and the Acropolis of Ancient Byzantion. Gabriel worked together for providing İstanbul . (Images 8, 9) Prost envisaged the Archaeology Park an international support for the as an open-air museum open to public preservation of historical heritage and the The Archaeological and as an archaeological site where implementation of the project38. In his Park Project excavations were to be held35. (Figure conference in the Academy of Beaux-Arts Henri Prost’s particular interest in the 3, Image 11-17) He stated later, in in Paris, Henri Prost emphasized the East Roman vestiges of the city went his conference at the Académie des urgency of safeguarding the Byzantine back to the turn of the century, when he Beaux-Arts, that his proposal for the monuments and vestiges of İstanbul, Image 21. A picturesque view of the old Karacahmet Image 22. The picturesque unity of tombs and cy- Image 23. Yalıs and sail barges in Kuruçeşme, on first came to İstanbul for studying the Archaeological Park was approved by given the scarcity of the funds that the Cemetery, parts of which Henri Prost proposed to presses in the old Karacaahmet Cemetery. Photograph Bosphorus vestiges of Constantinopolis as a young President Atatürk who had ordered the Turkish government could allocate to transform into a park dated Spring 1941. architect in the framework of the Prix de transformation of Hagia Sophia into a these. He also pointed that the area Rome program of Beaux-Arts School. museum a few years before. By referring where the Archaeology Park would be 39 E. Madran, Tanzimat’tan Cumhuriyete Kültür Varlıklarının..., op. cit., 162 40 P. Pinon, “The Archaeological Park”, op.cit. 294-298. Founded in 1941, the Turing Club contributed to the conservation, repair and re-use of several historic buildings in this period. 41 The decision of the Higher Council of Antiquities and Monuments, dated 13 November 1953. The limits of the area were revised in a second decision dated 17 July 1956, cited in 33 H. Prost, “Le Plan Décennal”, note no. 265, dated 26 April 1943, in Les Transformations d’Istanbul, Vieil Istanbul, vol. VII: 240-270 and “İstanbul’un Fethinin 500ncü yılının kutlanması”, N. Duranay, E. Gürsel ve S. Ural, “Cumhuriyet’ten Bu Yana İstanbul Planlaması”, op. cit., 425. İstanbul Belediyesi, Güzelleşen İstanbul. Istanbul, 1944. 42 H. Prost, “Protection des sites et transformations de certains édifices,” Note C, 29 June 1936, Les Transformations d’Istanbul, Volume III, Plan Directeurs, (unpublished reports), 6. 34 P. Pinon, “Henri Prost: From Paris and Rome to Morocco and Istanbul”, F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon, eds., From the Imperial Capital to the Republican Modern City, op. cit., 15-22. 43 H. Prost, “Mémoire descriptif du plan directeur de la Cité funéraire Eyüb,” Note no. 262, “Protections des sites historiques, archéologiques et 35 H. Prost, Mémoire Descriptif du Plan Directeur de la Rive Européenne d’Istanbul, Les Transformations d’Istanbul, Plans Directeurs, vol. 3, unpublished reports, 1937: 4, H. Prost, Commu pittoresques,” 15 April 1943, Note no. 262, Les Transformations d’Istanbul, Volume III, Plan Directeurs, (unpublished reports), 84-86, cited by F. C. Bilsel, nication, op. cit. pp. 28-29; Pierre Pinon, “The Archaeological Park,” F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon, eds., From the Imperial Capital to the Republican Modern City, op. cit., 289-300. “Henri Prost’s Planning Works in Istanbul (1936-1951) ...,” op. cit., 129-133. 36 H. Prost, Communication, op. cit., 29. 37 H. Prost, Mémoire…, op. cit., 5. 38 P. Pinon, “Le projet de Parc Archéologique d’Istanbul de Henri Prost et sa tentative de mise en œuvre par Albert Gabriel,” Anatolia Antiqua, 16, 2008: 181-205. İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 97 2016 European Side of İstanbul and numerous constitute two important sites of İstanbul decisions and building regulations were sectorial plans that Prost prepared with in the UNESCO World Heritage List. imposed in consideration with the his team in İstanbul from 1936 to 1951, degree of conservation and the eventual are mainly directed to modernize the After Henri Prost left his position, the impact of new buildings on the silhouette urban setting and infrastructure. In line Committee of Consultants constituted by for each zone. The area surrounding with the understanding of the period, the the Turkish professors of architecture and Hagia Sophia and Sultanahmet Mosque, planner’s approach to conservation was city planning, worked on the revision of the land walls and the area of non- mainly confined with the monuments the master plans prepared by Prost and aedificandi extending along the walls and not the built-environment as a whole. his team. However, starting from 1956, were demarcated as two special zones (Image 24) İstanbul was subjected to large-scale of protection as defined by Henri Prost. urban demolitions that were personally While the status of protection area Despite his interventionist attitude directed by the Prime Minister Adnan was continued for these areas, Prost’s towards the historic urban fabric, Henri Menderes who decided to lead the plans for three sectors of the old city 46 Prost played an important role in the modernization of the city . Although were cancelled, with the objective to adoption of certain conservation policies Prost’s Master Plan was superficially conserve the historic urban fabric. A in this period. He developed a number taken as a reference in these operations, preliminary study and a report was of planning tools and decisions that the roads were opened in dimensions prepared by Doğan Kuban, professor at were critical in the conservation of not that matched the standards of a highway, İstanbul Technical University Faculty only monuments but also the natural cutting through the historic city, and of Architecture, to determine the bases causing the destruction of several and cultural landscapes of İstanbul. for a conservation plan in İstanbul50. neighborhoods and the demolition The regulations that he proposed for Unfortunately, the Plan for the Walled maintaining the historical silhouette of of numerous historic buildings, while City –Suriçi İmar Planı- did not gain monumental mosques were restored. The İstanbul could be relatively successful approval, and a contradictory plan – in spite of almost complete renewal studies for the preparation of a master İstanbul Kat Nizamları Planı (Building of the Old City. The notion of “site to plan in metropolitan scale recommenced Heights Zoning Plan)- was put into be preserved” is another important in 1958, with the consultancy of the implementation in the same year, contribution of Henri Prost to planning Italian architect and planner Luigi annihilating the fundamental decisions of practice, which was later introduced to Piccinato. In the master plan report, the former plan. the conservation legislation in Turkey. Piccinato defined the principal vision for The declaration of Eyüp as a “site to be İstanbul as a center for commerce, culture Image 24. The revised Master Plan of İstanbul on a topography model together with a detailed model of Süleymaniye Mosque and the rearrangement of a park in its sur- and tourism47. It is interesting to note Due to the accelerating immigration roundings. Photograph taken from an exhibition in early1940s. preserved” enabled its conservation as a whole and most probably saved that André Gutton, the president of the from rural areas and other towns of landscape of the two coasts constituted to conserve the aesthetic qualities of the gave way to the creation of governmental the historic neighborhood from being committee of urbanism of UIA, who was the country, the population of İstanbul the principal planning decision of waterfront, the urbanist was opposed organizations that were responsible from compromised by the industrial sprawl of invited to give a conference in İstanbul in multiplied at an unprecedented rate in the Master Plan for the European to the construction of the coastal road. the conservation of historic monuments, the time. 1959, stressed also the importance of the the following decades. As a result, the Side of İstanbul, as well as the more He instead proposed the road to be built which continued their function after the historic and cultural heritage and pointed historic built-environment in İstanbul, detailed sector plans and urban design behind the yalıs, in order not to disturb foundation of the Republic. The declaration of the Byzantine city particularly to the potential of tourism which had already been transformed arrangements that Henri Prost and his their relation with Bosphorus. Although walls as monuments went back to an that could be the principal industry through large-scale urban operations, team produced. A number of “korus” his suggestion was followed on the The organization of a planning ordinance of late 19th century. Half a in İstanbul48. Conservation of cultural could hardly resist the pressure of (groves and parks) in Emirgân, Küçük Anatolian side, on the European side, the competition in 1933 reveals the century later, in Henri Prost’s Master heritage for the sake of attracting tourism urbanization and was subject to a Çamlıca and Çubuklu were expropriated coastal road was constructed, in 1950s, Republican authorities’ will to direct the Plan for the Old City, approved in 1939, activity has developed into a well-known piecemeal, and yet decisive renewal by the Municipality and opened to public disregarding the planner’s advice. future urban development in conformity the Land Walls were to be conserved by discourse ever since. that caused an exceptional increase in use including Yıldız Park, in conformity with the precepts of town planning. the declaration of a protection zone that The Planning Direction of the building densities. Nonetheless, although with the planner’s suggestions44. The The French urbanist Henri Prost, allowed the aesthetical appreciation of Municipality, conducted by architect the dilemma of modernization versus picturesque unity created by the Conclusion whom they finally selected as the city’s the fortifications as a whole. Finally, the conservation seem to be concluded in The dilemma of modernization and Turgut Cansever, elaborated a integration of natural and cultural assets master planner, set the two principal Archeology Park was one of the most conservation oriented plan in 1/5.000 favor of the former, multiple planning conservation constituted a major of these sites were given a particular goals of planning in İstanbul as the significant projects that Henri Prost scale for the historical peninsula and the decisions to preserve parts of the city concern in İstanbul beginning the late emphasis in the planning of both sides modernization of the urban space and the introduced in the Master Plan of Old protection area of Eyüp in 196449. The have contributed to the safeguard of the Ottoman period. While ambitious plans of Bosphorus. Pointing out the aesthetic conservation of the city’s “incomparable İstanbul as early as 1937. Today, both the plan divided the historic peninsula into cultural and natural heritage of Istanbul envisaging the reorganizion of the urban interaction between the yalıs and the landscape” and its historical monuments. Land Walls and the Archaeology Park different zones in which special planning to a certain extent. trees that surrounded them, the harmony space were put into implementation, Prost’s plan illustrated, indeed, a of colors, Prost recommended working civic as well as official initiatives could dilemma that the planners faced within 46 İ. Yada Akpınar, “The Making of a Modern Pay-ı That in Istanbul: Menderes’ Executions After Prost’s Plan”, F. C. Bilsel, P. Pinon (eds.), From the Imperial Capital to the with artists in order to conserve this be successful in safeguarding significant the early Republican context of societal Republican Modern City, op.cit., 168-199. 45 47 “İstanbul Metropoliten Alan Çalışmaları.” Mimarlık 7, 1972: 60. picturesque quality . (Image 23) In order historic monuments. These initiatives modernization. The Master Plan for the 48 Ibid., p. 92. Turgut Cansever evaluated André Goutton’s conference and report later in his article. T. Cansever, “UIA Şehircilik Komisyonunun İstanbul’daki Toplantısı Münasebetiyle.” Arkitekt. 1959: 31-32. 44 Istanbul Municipality, Güzelleşen İstanbul. Istanbul, 1944, cited by F. C. Bilsel, “Espaces libres: Parks, promenades, public squares...,” C. Bilsel, P. Pinon (eds.), From the 49 N. Duranay, E. Gürsel, S. Ural, “Cumhuriyet’ten bu yana İstanbul planlaması,” Ş. Özler (ed.), Cumhuriyet Dönemi İstanbul Planlama Raporları…, op.cit., 423-426, and Imperial Capital to the Republican Modern City, op.cit., 369-370 İ. Tekeli, İstanbul’un Planlaması ve Gelişmesinin Öyküsü. Istanbul, 2013, 203-204. 45 H. Prost, “Aménagement des Rives du Bosphore – Aménagement pittoresque des rives,” Not no. 29, Les Transformations d’Istanbul, cilt IV, Bosphore, 51-52. 50 D. Kuban, “İstanbul’un Tarihsel Yapısının Genel Özellikleri ve Koruma Yöntemleri,” report republished in D. Kuban, Türkiye’de Kentsel Koruma, Kent Tarihleri ve İSTANBUL Koruma Yöntemleri. Second edition, Istanbul, 2010, 3-46. SPECIAL ISSUE 99 2016 v

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016 PRECEDENCE of LOCAL ADMINISTRATIONS Prof. Dr. Metin Sözen President, ÇEKÜL Foundation. in the PROTECTION of NATURAL and CULTURAL INHERITANCE [email protected] Taking the end of the twentieth being in the lead, but until the new The basic concept is built on a foundation immigration has become cause of century as a starting point, we see that approach was fully internalized, the In order to adopt a holistic of “togetherness & continuity”, and the unending damage and pain for İstanbul. Turkey’s perspective of the natural- process did not prove to be strong closer ties between central and local On the other side, however, small Turkey has a very special cultural inheritance has gone through enough to help the efforts of relevant approach to urban patterns administrations seem to penetrate municipalities of İstanbul – as members geography and with her very significant changes within the bodies to stop the pressure. all parts of the country. Through of the Association of Historical Cities comparatively short period of time in our country, new methods togetherness and continuity, the – cooperated with other organizations natural-cultural heritage, elapsed. One of the early inducers of Time was spent while the country was scattered actions of public-private-local- to improve their monuments, their this change was the campaign started seeking a remedy to the situation, and suitable to the realities of civilian groups were slowly pushed networks of streets, equipping them always possessed a cultural by the Council of Europe in 1975, tried to develop new methods, fitting to align. People came to realize that with new functions, introducing titled “A Future for our Past”. During the reality of the geography it finds itself our geography were devised. responsibility and awareness required a environmental redressing and cultural richness. As long as we are the second half of the 20th century, in, in order to strengthen an integrated common effort, while different methods activities. As we have said before, the migrations from the rural to the urban approach to the urban patterns. Some The basic concept was were used to explain to the people the improvements seen in the beginning able to protect the underground areas in our country, along with some of the new legislations passed in a short successes of the positive examples. In of the 21st century pointed out five together with the surface considerable migration to countries in time, were in search of success primarily ‘togetherness-sustainability’, the course of time, people began to important items for us: “natural-cultural- Europe, seem to be a turning point as in medium-scale settlements, and were rediscover the values that made their heritage - education-organization- far as the cultural heritage is concerned. areas, she will have responded brought together with efforts to create for which, efforts were made own existence more meaningful, the promotion” became the main items on Beginning in the rural areas, a huge awareness. It is possible to say that after privilege-creating potential of quality- the agenda. These apply to both tangible to UNESCO’s call for taking erosion took place all the way into cities, in areas like ‘the cultural long periods of struggle, some levels of protection, hopelessness began to decline and intangible heritage, but they need rich in their cultural possessions, and success were finally achieved. Today, and possibilities began to multiply. to be considered together and thus be responsibility, thereby enabling dragged along an adverse change which heritage, education, organizing, our country is on the UNESCO World Local dynamics came into play, and addressed towards a chosen target in was too powerful to be controlled by without expecting any support or help order to serve a better cause. the heritage to continue living. legal measures taken. Accompanying all Heritage list, and when we cast a glance promotion’ in a number of from central authorities, success became that, the impact of unhealthy expansion at certain examples around us, we can see and the wrong choices for designation of that almost all sections of society have medium size settlements and possible through different paths, which With her diversified natural-cultural natural-cultural heritage, and certainly industrial areas, caused serious damage contributed to that success importantly. gradually brought the long awaited heritage, Turkey has always been rich in push into difficulties the positive transformation. her cultural values, and should it manage to the integrity of the cities and increased This also underlines the necessity of some healthy results were developments we have been successful continuity. Happy results seem to have to protect “the underground along with the price to be paid for rediscovering in achieving. Taking these realities into triggered action in other settlements of attained as a result of a new But along with the positive developments, what it has on the surface” it will be able the right paths. As everyone knows, view, new evaluations of the present this caused Turkey, especially İstanbul, similar scales, and we are now able to see the constant tearing away from basic to fulfill its share of the responsibility situation are required. Improvements in to suffer intolerable losses. Legislation examples like Safranbolu and Beypazarı, awareness created in the light values due to immigration caused a UNESCO expects from the world. The was introduced in the light of the new inciting towns in all parts of the country new set of problems, which continued recent massive immigrations triggered the legislation, seeking new resources for concepts and measures developed by to opt for similar methods to make their of some new concepts. without any slowdown. The mobility by belligerence in the region, caused cultural values, on-going education at any international organizations, UNESCO own heritage stand out. and continuity of immense waves of more damage than any before, to the age, mapping of important residences,

Sultanahmet Urban Archaeological Component Area of Süleymaniye Mosque and its Associated Component Area of Zeyrek Mosque (Pantacrator Church) and its Associated Component İstanbul Land Walls Component Area of World Heritage Site World Heritage Site World Heritage Site Area of World Heritage Site

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 103 2016 important change. Different Ministries, brought on by changing conditions that That certainly shows us how an agenda with international solidarity. Ties can organizations, universities, NGOs, and upset all values? Can Turkey be one of with a local focus has already grown roots be established between the historical The Historical Cities Association especially The Association of Historical İstanbul has always had an the important geographies to provide in different regions. metropolitan area, and the newly Cities and ÇEKÜL Foundation have some answers without any violation of developed suburbs. The problems can be and the Çekül Foundation have already shared their own actions agenda that concerns its UNESCO’s principle of equality? Bursa, a city which served as an Ottoman answered, not by uncalled for criticism, with the experts working at the local capital once, is another that has found but by some lasting support, because the cooperated with other NGOs administrations - the educational cultural identity and its cultural Post-2000 developments that we enjoy a place on the World Heritage List, and harms caused by wars and migrations can to create new strategies and programs they provide and the contents referring to so often, did bring about is now trying to prove the integrity of be too big for İstanbul to compensate, of such, etc. The high number of heritage. With the belligerent visible differences in every region, but it culture with what they can exhibit of the too big, even, for the world to restitute. cultural roadmaps that reach demands we receive shows us that our is also true that due to the immigration values that have contributed so much It is not to discover the reasons behind educational programs are becoming tendencies and the mass problems created by the Syrian issue, even beyond the country’s borders, the the visible mistakes, but to improve the out to monumental buildings effective. some of our cities are also under great Balkan Peninsula being one example. environment that leads to those mistakes, migrations, which have already threat as far as holistic protection is On the other hand, through their that can make a difference; and this as well as to traditional homes, The Association of Historical Cities turned into a global problem, it concerned, Antakya, Gaziantep, Mardin, Cumalıkazık digs, they are underlining requires giving the cultural values a new (TKB) calls its members to uphold a Şanlıurfa, to name a few. Right in the the importance of rural settlements, opportunity to go on living. streets, neighborhoods, towns, new understanding both in the field of is a national and international middle of the efforts those cities were under the title “Villages must Live”. regions all over the country, natural-cultural heritage, and in the field making to insert themselves into the Other examples of the same kind of effort of education-organization-promotion responsibility to try for some UNESCO World Heritage list, will the were seen previously at Yörük Village thus strengthening the related to it. The fact that a success of a ever climbing tension recede? Diyarbakır near Safranbolu, and Apçağa Village certain level is evident, surely points to balance and stability for the being accepted by UNESCO at such a near Kemaliye (Eastern Anatolia). The ownership spirit. the fact that the efforts made have not sake of regions rich in cultural time when priorities are changing, is a general aim of all similar efforts target been in vain. Already the Association’s concrete example of the willpower and keeping alive the rural life, and (as much call for “a city museum and archive for heritage of İstanbul, many of the perseverance exhibited. The cities as possible) achieve some level of turn- streets, districts, and areas, routes to each city” has received over a hundred continue with their efforts to protect around in the flow towards big cities. cultural possessions, and many new replies, while some of those cities which have their names on the their cultural values, but they come Efforts are made all around to attract strategies could lead to paving the ground managed to create an active environment across great difficulties vis a vis the global villages, small towns, all kinds of rural problem of migration in the region. settlements to the work being done. The for willing participation of the people. through the programs they were able to World Heritage List. Such problematic environment abrades change created can be witnessed in the Local administrations can, within such keep developing without interruption. At the results to be gained by Turkey’s physical environment. an environment, take responsibilities the 2015 meeting of ‘Silk Road Mayors’ which had started with monumental new strategies. Although this does not and lead us to the transformation so held in Bursa, a resolution was reached to structures and then covered all patterns mean a standstill, the huge fluctuations The cultural heritage lists of governors long awaited – which would be an expand the City Museums campaign into including the museums and other areas, do influence the priorities of the and municipalities now include the achievement not to be underrated. the international arena. Not fully satisfied led İstanbul into different responsibilities administrations. intangible inheritance as well, in addition with the City Museums alone, another towards a comprehensive outlook of to which, the ever increasing publications Efforts in such diverse areas will create step was taken to have the member ‘Anatolia-Thrace’. The digs around the Turkey will still continue seeking new show us what can be achieved with a new interest in archeology, and with mayors to support any effort for specialty and lasting methods to protect its values cooperation between NGOs, academics, the local administrations taking on museums in their respective cities. city teaches us more about its history and transfer them to next generations, central government, and local responsibility, all sections of society Starting with the archeological times, and deepens its roots, carrying its past despite the changing conditions. One administrations when they take up a vast can pitch in, to have different kinds into dates further back. To protect the an inventory work was started for the example worth mentioning would be publishing policy. of museums to be quickly established, environmental and ‘skyline’ values of the heritage that has been able to reach our Gaziantep, the city which achieved great to have more intensive work done in day, and interesting results came out of tightly woven heritage and to enhance the identity appropriation by slowing down success in its archeological digs on the Most of what is said has to do with getting a fuller inventory of the values our search for some buildings to be used piece of land from its citadel, all the where İstanbul stands within all that the incoming migration helped to upkeep we have, hence education in this area for appropriate functions; furthermore, way to its marketplace and residential transformation. The housing pressure the momentum of the newly started can be triggered, perhaps taking shape the tests seem to bear clues for future districts, is now busy dealing with the created by the population increase, has cultural transformation. We need a new in different competitions – these are projects. “Sharing and Solidarist Cities” settlements they need for the incoming pushed the western boundary of the city agenda to push national and international the kind of changes that can catch the is another title under which, hopefully migrants. In spite of everything, the city all the way to Tekirdağ, and the eastern strengths to come together and to move attention of people, not only in Turkey, some 500 member cities will move into still tries to upkeep its priorities. Until boundary to İzmit. All national and but everywhere. forming a new network of relations. towards a common target. Vis a vis the very recently, they had very few museums international evaluations seem to point ever changing conditions, how will that there, but now, with the new specialty at the necessity to sustain a reasonable Looking at the small number of locations Programs and targets developed with a agenda keep to the willingly accepted museums, their number has reached size for this gem of a city to which all we had on the UNESCO World Heritage local focus will certainly trigger action basic principles developed by UNESCO? 17, to which we need to add the new cultures have contributed. İstanbul list until recently, the new interest and in İstanbul as well. There is a continuing What kind of a balance can be hit among international one, where the treasures can go on living if and when the local applications that pour out of our local agenda on İstanbul’s cultural identity the heritage-rich regions of the world? uncovered at Zeugma are being exhibited. togetherness can be brought together administrations is an indication of an and its cultural heritage. The efforts, Is it possible to avoid the difficulties

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 105 2016 WORLD HERITAGE İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 107 2016 ISTANBUL MEANS in its gardens and take some photos. what Istanbul means to you. You would look at Istanbul out of the top of Taking a ride on the nostalgic tramway on the Genovese Tower and wait there until the the Pera Street, visiting the district of Moda Every city has a story, a past. You cannot sun goes down – remembering the legends … or would you choose Balat today to take a discover it through books or pictures; of Istanbul – it is said that you would marry few snapshots … you need to get lost in its streets, taste its the person who accompanied you to the flavours, climb its hills, go up its towers, top of that tower in your first visit, and you You would run every year in the Eurasia YOUTH INHERITORS Maraton, from Asia to Europe … the look around you from its domes, dance to would sense that Istanbul surely is a city of its music. You have to move yourself into a love. distance is only the length of a bridge. distance of abstraction, and look at Istanbul You would envy the tourists and join them Results of “İstanbul and Cultural Heritage” themed competition which with the curiosity of a tourist in a foreign And sometimes you would try to make up your mind – which hill shall I go to now, to climb on the roof of the Büyük Valide city. Being in Istanbul is not the same as Han, and never come down without taking is organised by İstanbul Site Management Directorate with ARKİTERA. being and Istanbulite. to look out at Istanbul: Topkapı Palace, Çemberlitaş, Fatih, Yavuzselim, Edirnekapı, a photo there, posing like it is yours, you are If you are in Istanbul, if you are an Kocamustafapaşa … a difficult choice, an Istanbulite, this is your victory … Istanbulite, you would order a Turkish indeed. At times you walk along the coast with a Winner of competition in coffee, cooked on hot ash, with lots of froth book full of Istanbul poems, or opt to take a on it, as soon as you finish eating your food, Tulip festivals are best at Emirgân. Tulip video category means that spring is coming, it means an stroll in the copses, which you cannot finish to have something to accompany the friendly without a picnic … Work Name: MAHALLE chat around the table. elating binge of colours. … and sometimes you would want to https://vimeo.com/151724822 When you feel the spring coming, when Each section of the city has its own particular tastes and flavours – it is pamper yourself and go to a historical bath- Crystal Jane Eksi the sun shows its face, you jump on a ferry house to clean and revive yourself. and find yourself at the Islands, to have a almost a rule; you would have meatballs [email protected] ride in a horse-drawn carriage. During the at Sultanahmet, and fish sandwiches at Wherever you are, you would be searching season of the cercis blossoms, ‘islands’ mean Eminönü, toss a bite of ‘simit’ to the seagulls for an angle, catching a viewpoint for a biking. If you are passing through Eminönü, from your seat in the ferryboat while sipping landscape … perhaps on the Çamlıca Hill, you would eat a grilled fish sandwich sitting your tea; you would have your baked potato perhaps on a Topkapı Palace terrace. at Ortaköy, then stop by the mosque to snap on a stool, with your eyes on the sea … There are places where you would feel the you would take a tour in the ancient Spice a photo, before going on to Emirgân to have your breakfast, looking out at the Bosphorus. art in your bones, and places in which you Market, with sweet, spicy aromas dancing would get lost in a page of history. Your around you; you would toss out a cup-full If it is summer, your ‘baklava’ would have a ball of the famous Maraş ice cream on top route would then have to take you to a of bait to the doves in front of the New museum or a gallery. Mosque; you would stroll through the of it, but if it is winter, you would walk the covered Bazaar admiring the artful jewellery streets eating grilled chestnuts out of the And at times you would just listen to those displayed. small paper bag you hold in your palm. sounds … they would help you to find your path, you would find yourself in a You would watch people standing on the Üsküdar is where you sip your tea looking at the Leander Lighthouse, while sometimes neighborhood market … a hassle around Galata Bridge with their rods, fishing in the you, everyone in a hurry. Golden Horn, and you would listen to the you would smoke a waterpipe or eat your sounds of the city. yogurt at Kandilli, with confectioners’ sugar Everything is lively in Istanbul, each district Winner of competition in topping it. opening a gate onto a different way of life. And sometimes you would feel like taking a photograph category Winner of competition in ‘history’ tour – every part of Istanbul emits Turkish coffee is beautiful everywhere – as Many different faces the city has – daytime, Work Name: İNCİLİ KÖŞK ve BARÇA an aroma of history, but Sultanahmet would long as your eyes are looking at an Istanbul nighttime, summer, winter, Asia, Europe … miniature art category landscape … Dilek Deveci Bilgili always be your starting point. You would But being in Istanbul, being an Istanbulite, Work Name: MARATON want to photograph everyting and put them You would not find a single person in this means to wake up into a different world each [email protected] Şahan Nuhoğlu all in a single frame, as if you are seeing all city who has never been to the Pierre Loti day … not knowing what the colour would that for the first time. Hill at the Golden Horn – who has never be that day! [email protected] The Basilica Cistern is always a part of your looked at Istanbul from that angle, with a What gives Istanbul its colourful binge route; you cannot leave without seing the shapely glass of stong tea in front of them. is its history, its culture, its heritage, its Medusa head in the water! If spring is around the corner, if the sun is architecture, its patterns, its streets, its beginning to warm up the city, it is time to districts, its Bosphorus, and its people You would get on the ‘tünel’ at Karaköy, and mostly. find yourself in the Pera, walking to Taksim, take a ferry tour on the Bosphorus – you probably unaware that you have just taken would look around as if it is your first time, a ride in the second earliest underground inhaling the fresh Bosphorus air. public transport train in the world. Touring the back streets, learning the names On the Pera, a street enlivened by musicians of the places you are going through, knowing Winner of competition in around the clock, you would be a part of that each of those names has a story of essay category the crowd. Sometimes you would be unable its own, is what we mean when we talk of to walk on without stopping at the Pera discovering Istanbul. Key Words: Being an Istanbulite, Museum and taking another look at the Getting lost in the streets of Kuzguncuk Colours of Istanbul, Journey in Istanbul ‘Turtle Trainer’ painting by Osman Hamdi would take you to a different world Bey, and at other times, your steps would altogether. And sometimes, just passing by Ayşe Nur Canbolat take you to the Saint Anthony’s Church – it through the Perihan Abla Street, just sitting [email protected] is almost an established habit to make a stop on the wooden chairs of Ekmek Teknesi, is

İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE 109 2016 WORLD HERITAGE İSTANBUL SPECIAL ISSUE/ 2016