Wine from the hills, with hand & heart © Flora P. The Steiermark’s winegrowers are poster children for TABLE OF CONTENTS steep slope viticulture, but also models of courageous reimagining. Seizing a historic opportunity, they conquered Austria with novel wine styles. Now, a new generation is blazing its own stylistic trails, reclaiming international renown for a region once known as the innovation hub of European viticulture. Three winegrowing regions, 4 Origin »Steiermark« 37 innumerable terroirs David Schildknecht Prelude: DAC 39 The short story about a long time 8 Gebietswein, the regional wines 40 Ortswein, the ace 41 Concerning the origins of 11 Ortswein: SüdsteiermarkDAC 42 great wines Ortswein: Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC 46 Ortswein: WeststeiermarkDAC 50

»Terroir Steiermark« 12 Riedenwein: a perspective 53 Geology & foundations 14 The taste of the Steiermark 56 The basis of soils 16 The palette of grape varieties 21 THE STEIERMARK PRÄDIKAT 58 Characteristic features of the climate 22 From the hills, with hand & heart

The three winegrowing 26 Facts & figures 60 regions of the Steiermark

Wine estates & traditional taverns 61 Origin »Steiermark« SüdsteiermarkDAC 27 Voices of the press 61 Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC 31 WeststeiermarkDAC 35 References 62

Contact 63 The Steiermark is a WINEGROWING REGION of great Three wine regions, importance, both for Austria and for Europe. Although industry strongly moulded the form and substance of innumerable terroirs the Steiermark in the middle of the 20th century and still dominates the ALPINE VALLEYS, the federal state itself has never abandoned its agrarian tradition, but has remained a region with a self-aware and SELF- ASSURED AGRICULTURAL SECTOR. The Steiermark is the second-greatest in area of Austria’s nine federal states, and is bordered to the south by Slovenia.

WINEGROWERS AS MOUNTAIN FARMERS

The Steiermark is a mountainous winegrowing region, Austria’s most mountainous agricultural region, packed onto a spur of the Alps. Here the roads always go up, go down or follow along one of the many ridges. Viticulture A FAN CLUB FROM NEW YORK TO here is heavy work, comparable to farming crops in the SHANGHAI mountains; winegrowing here cannot be mechanised, all harvesting and the often tedious preparatory work must The winegrowing regions of the Steiermark spent many be done by hand. More than a quarter of the slopes show years in a kind of dormancy. Except within the borders of a gradient of between 40–70%, while another 62% of the the federal state and in Austria itself, Styrian wines were sites have an incline of more than 26% – perfectly level hardly known in the world at large. This has changed acreage is seldom encountered. Here mostly white wine radically in the last fifty years: Styrian wines are now grapes grow to maturity, along with a few dozen hectares found on the wine lists of the world’s best restaurants of red wine grapes. and are being drunk from New York to Shanghai by an enthusiastic and ever-growing group of devotées. There TRADITION COMMITTED TO HUMANITY is a simple reason for this: the wines of the Steiermark are unique. And this is not just a cliché, because it is Viticulture in the Steiermark, which encompasses 4,633 the combination of the site, the climate and the Styri- hectares, is truly a special feature of the land here; it is an grape varieties that make wines from the Steiermark a viticulture that is mostly focussed upon those people so unmistakable. For example, a Styrian Sauvignon, who live in the Steiermark. Here folks still visit the pro- Muskatel­ler or Traminer can be recognised by its aro- ducers on the weekend to pick up their wine. Also typical ma. These wines do not put on airs – they are straightfor-

© Anna Stöcher of the Steiermark are the many wine taverns, in which ward and full-bodied, juicy and mineral-driven – all the growers offer home-made and local products. way from the entry level up to the grand cru.

4 Three winegrowing regions, innumerable terroirs Three winegrowing regions, innumerable terroirs 5 LOOK TO THE LAND

Simultaneously with the rapidly developing international career of Styrian wines, the Steiermark has also enjoyed discovery as a destination for tourism. The astonishing © Toni Muhr thing is that the remarkably attractive landscape of the winegrowing regions – which without any doubt can be ranked among the most beautiful in the world – was (like the wines) only known to a dedicated group of connois- seurs. Of course, this has changed completely: today you can spend the night in comfort on the slopes and gaze out upon the land, stretching out in every direction to hills in the distance.

LUSH & VERDANT, SUN-DRENCHED HILLS

The hills that host the vineyards here are immensely im- portant for the Styrian wines and their flavour. Vineyards laid out on the steep slopes allow the sun’s rays to shine fully upon every vine. As warm as it gets in the summer and even in the autumn, the hills also channel the desir- able coolness of the night with their downdrafts, giving Styrian wines their famous and delicate refinement.

The Steiermark’s winegrowing regions are rich and ver- dant country. They emerge lustrous and inviting from out of the surrounding woods. To see this, you do not have to book a helicopter – it is enough to just climb one of the tall hills. And then look down. Best done with a glass of wine in hand. Plenty of that here…

The Klapotetz is not a Styrian bird, but rather a clattering wooden pinwheel, and the noise is supposed to spoil the birds’ appetite for devouring the precious grapes. Many regard the Klapotetz as the secret emblem of the Steiermark. source: www.oesterreichwein.at

6 Three winegrowing regions, innumerable terroirs Three winegrowing regions, innumerable terroirs 7 The short story about a long time © Flora P.

2000 YEARS OF VITICULTURE usually planted in an ad hoc field blend so that there The Romans brought institutionalised winegrowing were hardly any vineyards growing just a single variety. Organised viticulture throughout Europe, as well in with them – evidence for this is abundantly seen in the Although Probus (according to reports) happily drank south of the region. However, the Celts were already wine himself and allowed wine from the provinces to be the Steiermark, has its origins with a duty-minded and settled in the Steiermark before the Romans arrived. brought to Rome (although usually dead on arrival), his And they drank, like many of the peoples at that time, a decision to promote viticulture had quite a pragmatic industrious people who liked to drink wine and who grew kind of wine made from the fruit of vines growing wild. background: he needed more soldiers (the empire was (By the way, the variety Blauer Wildbacher, from which overextended) and these soldiers required wine to keep grapevines, who expanded their native territory and the Styrian Schilcher is now vinified, is a mutation of them content. one of the ‘original grapes’ of that era.) developed it into an empire – and wherever climatically Incidentally, Probus, who was born just a few hundred Of all the wine-loving Romans it was Emperor Probus kilometres from the Styrian border in the Serbian prov- feasible, planted vines for its officials and soldiers, who (276-282 AD), who gave winegrowing in his empire a ince of Vojvodina, was the first godfather of Styrian vit- special status. He promoted the planting of the vine iculture. It would take a few centuries for his successor fired amphoras and bound barrels – the Romans. and certain high-yielding grape varieties. These were to follow: Archduke Johann.

8 The short story about a long time The short story about a long time 9 With the fall of the Roman Empire, much of its agricul- catastrophe – was as significant as that of the Prussian tural technology was lost. Techniques and practices were Rheingau and the Mosel. In addition, the wineproducing simply forgotten, including the ways of viticulture, re- region of the Steiermark figured as a leader in both quan- vived only around 800 by Charlemagne and the church. tity & quality – in Europe and in the world – a role it has It was the church and its monasteries that expanded wine- reassumed today. Concerning the growing to a considerable extent in all their spheres of influence. The Little Ice Age, the plague and other epi- ONE OF THE FIRST REGIONS TO demics – as well as the accompanying long epoch of many PROTECT ORIGINS & GRAPES wars – put an end to the still young and popular wine cul- ture of the Steiermark. After phylloxera, which almost completely laid waste to origins of great European viticulture, the Steiermark began to plant new THE BUSCHENSCHANK PATENT vines grafted onto resistant American rootstocks. The Steiermark also owes its boom years after the phyl­loxera The economic upswing under Maria Theresia and Jo- catastrophe to intensive research at the Marburg (then sef II, which began to take hold properly around 1770, part of the Steiermark) viticultural school, where direc- wines revived viticulture in the Steiermark. Josef II was also tor Hermann Goethe published his handbook on ampelo­ the ruler who implemented the Buschenschank Patent in graphy in 1878 (studying the description and definition 1784, and thus gave the hundreds of small winegrowers of grape varieties). The Steiermark was thus the pioneer who practised viticulture as a sideline the opportunity to in this new research and was also the first region to ben- earn money – an economically sensible measure, which efit from it. also promoted the growth of villages and communities. At that time, however, there was no question of an in- The Steiermark never entirely recovered its former ex- dependent winegrowing society – any basis for that had panse of vineyard area after the phylloxera scourge; in to wait until the secularisation of the 19th century. But addition, after the dissolution of the Habsburg monarchy Josef’s old Buschenschank decree has developed into a in 1918 it lost more than 30,000 hectares of vineyards to distinctive Austrian cultural asset. the state of Slovenia in the newly established kingdom of Yugoslavia. In the 1980s, however, Styrian wine suc- ARCHDUKE JOHANN, GODFATHER OF ceeded in achieving extraregional importance and be- THE STEIERMARK coming a subject for conversation. This took place thanks to the »Schutzring für Wein aus steirischen Trauben«, Archduke Johann, alias Johann of Austria, a half-Span- founded in 1977, which at the beginning ensured that iard, came to the Steiermark during the time of Napole- Styrian winegrowers only produce wine exclusively from onic turmoil. And stayed. He loved the land and people. Styrian grapes, a regulation subsequently adopted by the And they loved him, because Johann was a man with the Austrian Wine Law. What sounds self-evident today was attitude of ‘live and let live’ (as well as this could be prac- a rarity in Europe at the time. tised in those days). Vienna was not his city, so Graz grew into its special role, which it still retains today in Austria. At present, the Steiermark’s winegrowing regions are Johann dealt with many things very well; he was a man of among the most innovative in Europe: here, all invest- many interests and also a stickler for details. He donated ments in near-to-nature and ecologically sound wine- an estate for the purposes of research to Styrian viticulture growing have paid off, giving Styrian wine a position © Manfred Klimek – which then had about 35,000 hectares under vines (at that that is writing a promising new history for itself. time the Steiermark included large parts of today’s Slo- venia) – which had become a considerable and important economic factor in the region. Here, in 1854, his growers planted 425 different grape varieties, to see what results The TERROIR OF THE STEIERMARK is ONE OF A might come of the various sorts of grape juice. KIND – although actually there are many kinds: the Most varieties were quickly forgotten, but Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon (Chardonnay) took hold in the region. unique interplay of climate, soils, vineyard sites and the With every passing year, Sylvaner diminished its acreage in more and more vineyards and migrated almost com- character of the land allows the winegrowers to produce pletely to Franconia, a unique passage in viticultural his- tory. Styrian white-wine production during these years of UNMISTAKABLE PREMIUM WINES with their own blossoming – unfortunately interrupted by the phylloxera totally distinctive character.

10 The short story about a long time Concerning the origins of great wines 11 TERROIR STEIERMARK © Flora P. In other wineproducing countries of the world, there are The six primary soil types and their main more than a couple regions where fatter, heavier, more distribution areas: alcoholic and – above all – more fashionable wines are produced. Wines that belong to a different concept of SLATE, SCHIST & GNEISS viticulture. However, Styrian winemakers have been de- Weathered solid rock fining their own, self-determined modern aesthetic for SüdsteiermarkDAC & WeststeiermarkDAC years now: they follow a long tradition of Austrian wine production, which also integrates a few influences from VOLCANIC STONE (TUFF, BASALT) southeast European and Pannonian viticulture into the Weathered solid rock Steiermark. Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC

LIMESTONE TERROIR STEIERMARK: THE CLIMATE, Fossil-rich marine deposits & reef limestone THE SOILS (Leithakalk & Korallenkalk) Styrian wines are known for their fragrance and their SüdsteiermarkDAC explosive flavour, for their spiciness and minerality, for their simplicity and their sophistication. And the nature OPOK of Styrian wines is determined to a great extent by their Limestony marl (‘Styrian Schlier’): origins: from the temperate, not so windy but rainy cli- Solidified, formerly muddy, mostly Winegrowers in the Steiermark are going up – and rather steeply, at that! mate, which has developed a plethora of microclimates, calcareous marine & alluvial deposits from soils of weathered volcanic stone (tuff, basalt), SüdsteiermarkDAC soils from weathered solid rock such as slate, schist and gneiss, soils on limestone, on gravel and conglomerate, GRAVELS & SANDS on sand and sandstone as well as »Opok«. This is a soil Coarse & grainy, partly loose or partly that is only thusly named in the Steiermark – a common solidified alluvial sediments term for solidified, sometimes slatey and predominantly SüdsteiermarkDAC & Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC fine-grained sedimentary rocks, including marl, clay and TERROIR STEIERMARK: TERROIR STEIERMARK: silt, but also with layers of sand, gravel, limestone and THE GRAPE VARIETIES THE WINEGROWERS shale. Opok is very dense and difficult to cultivate, and so SAND/SANDSTONE the grapevines need strong roots to break it up. For all the Sand, both loose and solidified as In the western growing region, the so-called »Schilcher- And last but not least, the many first-class growers also hard work demanded by wines grown in Opok, there is a sandstone, often containing quartz land«, the rare, autochthonous variety Blauer Wildbach- contribute significantly to accentuating the typical Styri- special, sensorially perceptible saltiness (‘minerality’) in SüdsteiermarkDAC, Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC er yields a well-known and beloved rosé: Schilcher, a an sense of place, because it is their time-honoured mode the finish. & WeststeiermarkDAC total terroir-wine, which is being vinified as sparkling of vinification that can always bring tradition into sharp- wine with increasing regularity. This specialty is now er focus without ever making it seem outdated. Styrian in demand internationally as a rare delicacy. In the winegrowers pursue a clear and common style that gives southern growing region, Sausal and the Südsteirische wines of the region a sense of shared character. But they Weinstrasse, vineyards are dominated by Sauvignon, are – each one for him/herself – a guarantee of individu- Welschriesling, Gelber Muskateller and members of the ality and distinctiveness. In no other wine region are so Pinot family, mostly vinified in an imposing style. many like-minded winegrowers vinifying such varied &

© Flora P. different wines, which are then always recognisable as Styrian Sauvignons, as one might say, are the most di- coming from the region. This evolves without a great verse in the world, although they hail from a comparative- deal of palaver, but rather from a primal instinct to do ly small winegrowing region. Here one has everything: the appropriate thing on one’s respective patch of soil – from prancing light to grassy-herbal textures, to wines and then daring in the cellar to conduct some rather sen- of truly grand stature, matched only by the heavyweight sational experiments, based on natural methods. Sauvignons of the Loire Valley. Something similar can be said of the region’s Morillon (Chardonnay), some of the best in the world when matured in cask. In the small southeastern growing area Vulkanland there are also many hectares of Traminer – here, like all other wines, wearing typical Styrian garb: no make-up, no disguise.

12 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 13 & FOUNDATIONS Kogel emerged: an exchange of lava flows and volcan- GEOLOGY ic tuffs (solidified volcanic ash) built a shield volcano of about thirty kilometres in diameter, which was large- by Dr Maria Heinrich, geologist ly surrounded by the sea. The second volcanic phase © Flora P. dates from approximately 3.5–1.8 million years ago and is marked by approximately forty volcanic funnels and charted lava flows. The volcanic eruptions of this time created the Klöcher Massif and the Steinberg of About 18 million years ago, towards the end of the for- sediments such as silts, clays and marls, which today are Mühldorf (both about 2.6 million years ago), as well as mation of the Alps, the earth’s crust began to stretch mostly solidified and called Schlier or Opok. Calm and the Stradner Kogel (about 1.7 million years ago). In the eastward due to plate tectonics. This was the starting shallow marine areas around crystalline thresholds and pyroclastic materials explosively flung out of the earth’s point for the formation of the Styrian Basin, here on the islands offered the best conditions for the development core, one can sometimes find semi-precious stones. An edge of the Alps, which in turn prepared the terrain for of a rich marine fauna and reef formation: this is where example of this is the olivine, which comes from a depth Styrian viticulture. If we had high mountains as far as the the Leithakalk (Leitha limestone) was created. About 11 of up to 60 kilometres and can be found today on the state border or beyond, the Steiermark would scarcely million years ago, the sea was increasingly desalinated Kapfensteiner Kogel. have suitable topography and climate for the vigorous by separation from the eastern Paratethys, forming a growth of the vines today. landscape of lakes where sand, silt and clays were depos- The edges of the basin toward the north, west & south- ited, followed by complete silting, marked by the sandy/ west are formed by the mountains in Joglland, the The basin first filled with deposits from rivers that led gritty deposits left by meandering rivers. Increased geo- Weizer Bergland, the Koralpe Range, the Radlgebirge rocky rubble down from the rising mountains into the logic activity with erosion in the mountains and deposit- and the Remschnigg in the south, all formed from phyllitic & calcareous schists and slates, quartzites and valley, and then, with further downward expansion, ing of gravel and pebbles in the basin then brought with crystalline rocks of the so-called Eastern Alpine unit green slates. All together, more or less weathered, they eventually with seawater that was in contact with the them the cold phases of the Ice Age. During this time, the of the Alps. They are appreciably older than the rocks form the substratum of acidic, predominantly lime- Mediterranean Sea and the Indian Ocean. Geologists call landscape was moulded into its present form. of the basin, transformed during the process of moun- stone-poor soils. The Sausal, also made up of schists, this body of water the Paratethys Sea. At the edges of the tain-formation into metamorphic rocks; the inventory forms an island in the basin, which continues to the east basin, alluvial fans, delta compositions and subaquatic With the stretching-out of the earth’s crust toward the consists mainly of quartz-rich gneisses, mica schists, into the Hungarian lowlands. mass movements of coarse sediments (pebbles, gravel & east, not only was the basin formed, but the two phases block gravel) were formed and in shielded coastal areas are related to volcanic activity as well, bringing major created lakes, bogs and coal seams. Great layers several eruptions of rock from the earth’s interior and giving hundred metres thick collected in the interior of the ba- Vulkanland Steiermark its name. About 16 million years sin, mostly of fine-grained and more or less calcareous ago, the volcanic rock at Wildon and the Gleichenberger

SOILS & SOIL FORMATION © Flora P. The sort of rock from which the soils emerge largely de- ROOT PENETRATION termine the properties of soils in the vineyards. Soil for- Further essential properties of rock & stone include den- mation and its further development take place over long sity, division level and grain size distribution, as well periods of time under the influence of other, site-related as the clay mineral content. These properties affect the factors such as climate, precipitation, surface gratings, soil’s water and temperature balances, as well as the ex- vegetation, soil organisms and changes caused by human change processes of mineral materials, the stability of habitation. the terrain and the rooting of vines in the soil. The depth of this zone, which extends from the surface to the solid Important features and characteristics of the soils and rock, determines the size of the root space and thus the rocks include their humus content, organisms living in size of the accessible storage space for nutrients and wa- loose and firm soil, and – concerning the parent rock – ter – a very important factor. the mineralogic and chemical composition with regard to the natural nutrient supply – especially limestone con- Old, deeply rooted vines, however, also find water in tent, which is quite relevant to the choice of rootstock narrow joints and clefts in solid rock. In general, soils and grape variety. that lie upon loose rock and volcanic rock are usually more deeply developed than those on solid rock.

14 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 15 The basis of soils

‘The Steiermark’s three wine regions lie together on the widest variety of substrates and in the narrowest area. This is unique in all the world!’

Dr Alois Bernhart

Dr Alois Bernhart, court expert for agriculture, author of technical publications, Wine Academy graduate

In Styrian viticulture there are SIX essential FORMS of SOIL. In addition to the type, composition and density of the parent rock, the grain size (or particle-size distribution) of the soil is an important factor. The grain size indicates how fine or coarse the substrate is. This is crucial for the capacity of the soil to store WATER and WARMTH and to ensure NUTRIENT TRANSPORT. GRANULATION of the soil has a big impact on the growth of the vines and the FL AVOU R of the WINE.

16 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 17 © Flora P. The essential soils: ‘There is no doubt that soil characteristics have

an impact on wine quality’. Jancis Robinson MW, wine journalist, Financial Times, London SLATE, SCHIST & GNEISS Limestone-free soils tend to form on weathered crystalline schists and gneisses with a high propor- tion of coarse stone, which retains the warmth of the sun well. The laminar-stony coarse part goes © Flora P. LIMESTONE back to the starting material, the crystalline slate and gneiss with their characteristic fissility, which Some communes in the Südsteiermark are markedly results from the steady & compressed storage of characterised by mostly dry calcareous soils on tabular-leafy minerals. Leithakalk. Leithakalk is a marine sediment formed by reef-building corals, red algae, bryoazoans and © Flora P. Slate soils are mainly found in the Südsteiermark foraminifera (chambered microorganisms) with fossil municipality Kitzeck-Sausal (reddish to bluish-black remains of shells, sea urchins and sharks’ teeth. The schist partly with high quartz content, with fine-­ soils are sandy-silty and often exhibit a high clay leafed green schist). Occasionally, however, they content. also appear in Weststeiermark (grey, plate gneiss and mica schist) and in the northern part of Vulkan- Wines made from grapes grown in limestone soils land (gneiss & schist). are generally extremely long-lived and are attrac- tive for outstanding varietal typicity and a firm, These soils allow the grapes to ripen for a long almost linear structural acidity with chalky-soft time each day by releasing warmth – from them textures. the growers produce big & lithe yet powerful wines with rich mineral salts and intense varietal aromas.

OPOK VOLCANIC STONE (BASALT & TUFF) Opok is the common regional name for a typical

Volcanic soils form on cooled, solidified & weath- © Flora P. Styrian soil formed from calcareous marl. One ered lava flows & cinder cones (basalt), or on finds silty clay soils, mostly with medium limestone fossilised volcanic ashes (tuffs). Volcanic rock stores content, on weathered marl, mainly in Südsteier- heat and water well, is often finely grained and mark. Opok is a mostly fine-grained, calcareous usually has a high proportion of iron (black & red sedimentary rock, a marl also known as Schlier – earth). Wines vinified from grapes that grow on of brown, but also grey or blue colour – ranging volcanic rock have a mineral-driven character, a from well-hardened to slatey in appearance. Lay- rather full-bodied texture and powerful fragrance ers of sand or sandstone and gravels can occur. (especially Traminer and other aromatic varieties). These are formerly muddy maritime deposits into which rivers of coarser material such as sands and Volcanic soils are found in the Vulkanland Steier- gravel have flowed. Opok is a very dense substra- mark region, above all in the municipality of Klöch tum that is difficult to work with. © Flora P. (iron-rich hard red basalt). In other communities, such as Kapfenstein, there are porous tuffs with The wines that grow on Opok soils are mostly fragments of entrained sediments and olivines from opulent, from soft to even creamy on the palate, the interior of the earth. and impart a sense of warmth. The high limestone content of many Opok soils also brings a senso­ Wines originating in volcanic rock usually have rially perceptible salty minerality. The element of a very vivid mineral character and particularly finesse and the fine fruit flavours also are aug- expressive aromas. mented with this increase in limestone content.

18 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 19 GRAVEL THE PALETTE OF GRAPE VARIETIES Gravel soils have developed from sediments (alluvial deposits). They are found mainly in the Südsteiermark, where the grains are sometimes

solidified into hard conglomerate, but also in the © Flora P. OUT OF THE WEALTH OF MANY SOILS As much as one associates the Steiermark with Vulkanland. The grain-size of the gravel can range GROWS THE DIVERSITY OF THE MANY Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling – with 753 ha – claims from 2mm to the size of a fist; usually a proportion VINES the largest area of all Styrian grape varieties. How­ever, of finer, sandy grains is present. Gravel soils have It was Archduke Johann – so it is said – who wanted to the qualitative top dog Sauvignon Blanc follows just the ability to absorb and store heat well and to drink more monovarietal wines in the Steiermark. He behind with 683 hectares. Weissburgunder is harvest- transfer it to the vines, especially in the evening had observed this trend in other countries, especial- ed in the Steiermark from the considerable area of 576 and at night. ly in France, and it appealed to him. In order to obtain hectares: a special guest artist in the concert, because monovarietal wines, more emphasis must be placed on in no other winegrowing region in Austria does Weiss- The wines grown in gravel soils shine with distinc- the individual grape variety. Unlike common practice burgunder, today an international variety, achieve this tive varietal aromas and a marked sense of typicity. at that time, these now got cultivated separately, instead status. In fourth place is the indigenous red wine variety Clear citrus notes and the floral tones of certain of being assimilated into the traditional field blend, the Blauer Wildbacher, which is vinified for the rosé wine grape varieties come to the fore. Gravel soils tend »Gemischter Satz«. Schilcher. Behind these four follow other grapes, which to produce wines with expressive, elegant body can also be considered as typically Styrian. For example, and prominent acidic structure. On the current 4,633 hectares under cultivation in the Morillon (Chardonnay), Muskateller, Traminer or Ries- Steiermark, 78% of the vines produce grapes for the pro- ling, (which is considered an indigenous variety, since it duction of white wine. The red grapes of the remaining has been growing in the Steiermark for some 200 years). 22% mainly produce rosé-coloured Schilcher, along with some interesting red wines, which have gained a well-re- spected niche existence. More than forty different grape varieties in total are planted in the Steiermark.

SAND/SANDSTONE AREA UNDER CULTIVATION, ORGANISED BY GRAPE VARIETY Sands, as loose sand or solidified as sandstone

© Flora P. – often with marked quartz content – developed from alluvial & marine deposits. Sandy soils can be 5% found in some areas of the Südsteiermark, Vulkan- 16.2% land and in the Eibiswalder area of the Weststeier- 7.6% mark. Sands are sediments with a particle size be- tween 0.063–2 millimetres, which are transported and deposited by rivers, with hard quartz enriched over longer transit times with other minerals. Over 9.9% time, and overlaid with other and younger strata of rock, loose sand will compact into solid sandstone. The colour of the sands and sandstone – beige, 14.7% brown or red – is usually determined by its iron content.

These vineyard soils can usually be cultivated with­ Welschriesling out undue hardship. An additional advantage is Sauvignon Blanc also provided by the good ventilation and thus a Weissburgunder good heatability of the soil, which in turn promotes 20% Muskateller maturation. Morillon/Chardonnay 12.4% Other white wine varieties Wines produced from grapes grown on sandstone Blauer Wildbacher usually have rich and ripe fruit flavours with nota- Zweigelt ble finesse. 7.1 % 7.1 % Other red wine varieties

20 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 21 The unique combination of steep slopes and AREA UNDER CULTIVATION IN HECTARES, ORGANISED BY GRAPE VARIETY slate soils in Sausal in the Südsteiermark makes © Weingut Wohlmuth Weingut © for lean yet powerful, mineral-driven wines. WHITE VARIETIES HECTARES PROPORTION RED VARIETIES HECTARES PROPORTION

Welschriesling 752.48 16.20% Blauer Wildbacher 457.30 9.90%

Sauvignon Blanc 682.91 14.70% Zweigelt 350.50 7.60%

Weißburgunder 576.26 12.40% Merlot 20.60 0.40%

Morillon/Chardonnay 327.71 7.10 % Blauburger 18.23 0.40%

Muskateller 328.59 7.10 % Pinot Noir 18.23 0.40%

Müller-Thurgau 245.34 5.30% Cabernet Sauvignon 14.29 0.30%

Scheurebe 152.44 3.30% Sankt Laurent 13.88 0.30%

Pinot Gris 96.85 2.10% Blaufränkisch 13.55 0.30%

Traminer 69.72 1.50% Roesler 6.42 0.10%

Riesling 63.05 1.40% Syrah 2.02 0.00%

Goldburger 29.50 0.60% Blauer Portugieser 1.99 0.00%

Gemischter Satz 17. 37 0.40% Cabernet Franc 0.76 0.00%

Sylvaner 8.26 0.20% Rathay 0.67 0.00%

Muskat-Ottonel 4.37 0.10% Gemischter Satz 0.05 0.00%

Bouvier 1.36 0.00% Others 121.06 2.60%

Furmint 0.15 0.00%

Others 237,44 5.10%

TOTAL WHITE 3,593.80 77.60% TOTAL RED 1,039.60 22.40%

TOTAL 4,633 HECTARES

source: Weinbaukataster Landwirtschaftskammer Steiermark; 2016

THE NATURE OF THE CLIMATE

The Styrian winegrowing areas are located south of the summers to the east. Vines grow particularly well here main Alpine ridge. This provides a shield against west and between 280–600 metres above sea level. In sites below northwest air currents and protection against cold winds. 280m, viticulture is usually endangered by the accumula- Thus, the Steiermark lies at the intersection of the warm tion and persistence of cool downward winds, and frost and humid (Illyrian) Mediterranean climate in the west & damage can occur, nor can the sun shine upon the vines south, and a Pannonian influence with hot & relatively dry for the entire period of its daily celestial circuit.

22 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 23 © Anna Stöcher

VOLUME OF RAINFALL DURING THE VEGETATION CYCLE (in mm)

135 BY COMPARISON

DAC WILD WEATHER 125 Kitzeck-Sausal (Südsteiermark ) Leutschach (SüdsteiermarkDAC) Annual rainfall in the Weststeiermark, near the Alps, Further special features of the Styrian climate interface 115 Deutschlandsberg (WeststeiermarkDAC) averages 1,200 mm per year & square metre. This figure are the severe thunderstorms, often in combination with 105 Klöch (Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC) decreases headed east, in Vulkanland Steiermark, to hailstorms, and the many foggy days in the year. In au- 95 Bolzano (Alto Adige) 800 mm. As a result of these climatic opposites, wines tumn, intense sunlight bathes the steep slopes and warms Beaune (Burgundy) with a variety of bouquet and of flavour are vinified up the soil and the vines. The cold, which sets in at night, 85 Sancerre (Loire) in the Steiermark to a degree that is matched in hardly flows down from the vineyards into the valleys, causing 75 Chablis (Burgundy) a sometimes substantial temperature swing, which ex- any other wineproducing land. The rainfall, especially 65 in Weststeiermark and Südsteiermark, may seem very erts a telling effect upon the aromatic substances in the 55 great compared to other European winegrowing regions grapes. Due to these vacillations in temperature, which and may not always make cultivating the vine easy, but occur almost daily in autumn, wines are produced in all 45

this will prove beneficial if climate change becomes three regions of the Steiermark showing an element of Niederschlag in mm 35 more intense and brings longer periods of drought. variety that is difficult to find elsewhere in the world. Apr Mai Jun Jul Aug Sep

24 Concerning the origins of great wines Concerning the origins of great wines 25 The three regions of the Towering hills, steeply sloped vineyards and St i rmark a marquee player: Sauvignon Blanc

The Südsteiermark is the largest winegrowing region in the federal state. The region is home to many wine es- tates of varying sizes, all producing high-quality wines © Flora P. and achieving an admirable standard. At first glance, the cultivated land looks like a small, densely packed, com- pact, quickly surveyable and well-arranged garden, but despite numerous forests and meadows, which interrupt the flow of the vineyards, it is one of the larger wine- growing regions in Austria, with 2,563 hectares under vines.

The picturesque wine country is one of the most beau- tiful and inviting wine regions in Europe with its wild and hilly landscape – a refreshment for both the eyes and the soul. However, viticulture here is downright hard work, because most vines are planted on extremely steep slopes, where one must work almost exclusively by hand and mechanical assistance is hardly possible. But it is precisely this complex and labour-intensive agricul- ture that guarantees individualistic wines, because every winegrower in the Südsteiermark must work out his own concept for his hillsides and his vineyard parcels. He can never rely on quick and easy approaches, as is the case elsewhere, where vines are commonly planted by the thousands on an open plain.

Quelle: www.oesterreichwein.at HOME TO THE FRESHEST & MOST SOPHISTICATED SAUVIGNONS IN CENTRAL EUROPE and Morillon with 8.6% of the cultivated area. Besides The Steiermark is divided into three individual The Südsteiermark is well-known for fragrant and re- these, one can still count small parcels of Riesling & freshing wines, as well as more profound bottlings vin- Grauburgunder – and even some Scheurebe. Sauvignon DAC regions (Districtus Austriae Controllatus): ified in the Burgundian style. Sauvignon Blanc, the va- Blanc was developed as the leading variety of the re- riety that made the Steiermark internationally famous, gion, owing to continuously progressive teamwork on DAC DAC Südsteiermark , Weststeiermark & Vulkanland is cultivated here the most widely with 21% of the area the part of the winegrowers. Today, these wines con- under vines. Welschriesling follows with 16.5%, Weiss- stitute a memorable episode in the saga of the world’s DAC Steiermark . burgunder with 11.4%, Muskateller with just under 10% finest Sauvignons.

26 The three regions of the Steiermark The three regions of the Steiermark 27 Red varieties do not play any major role in the Süd­ of each new vintage, and to the wines that follow, par- WELSCHRIESLING & MUSKATELLER: THE PINOT FAMILY DEMANDS THE steiermark and occupy only 13% of the vineyard land. ticularly the regionally typical white wines bearing the HERE AS WELL, SOMETHING DIFFERENT RIGHT SOILS But even if domestic and international attention does not protected designation of origin SüdsteiermarkDAC. With Welschriesling epitomises the fresh & fruity, extreme- Interaction with the soil is completely different with the focus on the region’s red wines, some winegrowers are rainfall of between 1,000 and 1,200 mm per square ly drinkable type of Südsteiermark wine; the variety is Pinot family varieties, which are very popular in the sure to be enthusiastic and avant-garde in preparing their metre per year, aridity is generally not an issue in the characterised primarily by apple-like flavours with a bit Steiermark as a complement to the customary palette of surprises. Thus, one may dare to make the prognosis Südsteiermark. Thanks to the innumerable hills there of citrus. However, Welschriesling definitely has potential vines, and which require high-quality rootstocks. The that some red wines from the Südsteiermark – especially is a wealth of differences in microclimate, amplified or for more: some estates have begun to mature their Welsch­ numerous stretches of limestone-laced vineyards in the Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and even Cabernet Franc – will open attenuated here and there by woodlands ranging from rieslings in wooden casks and thus to vinify rich wines that region offer optimal conditions for growing Morillon another chapter of new and unusual, elite wines in the sparse to dense. exceed the usual expectations. These wines prove that in (Chardonnay), Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder; near future. the Südsteiermark you can also think outside the box and wines from these sites draw a goodly part of their power Sauvignon Blanc may be spread all over the world and exploit possibilities that are not considered elsewhere. of persuasion from the soils. ALL THE GOOD EARTH ONE might indeed be a world-famous variety, but there are only a few areas besides the Südsteiermark, such as the COULD WANT Fresh, fruity and extremely drinkable: this also applies Some grapevines in the Südsteiermark are grown in soils French Loire Valley, that can be associated with such to Gelber Muskateller. This savoury, highly-scented and called Opok, which are among the special features of the The soils of the Südsteiermark are as varied as the fine quality. Sauvignons from the Südsteiermark are aromatic variety is the regional favourite for easy-drinking growing region. These are basically sedimentary materi- grape varieties – from sand to slate, from marl to lime- impressive for their aroma, freshness, delicacy and summer wine. Some time ago, however, winegrowers in the als, predominantly fine-grained, calcareous soils of so- stone. A warm and humid Mediterranean climate, with concentration; hardly any variety has so many facets Südsteiermark also discovered the technique of matching lidified marl, clay, fossil limestone, silt, sand, gravel and little influence from the Pannonian plain, determines to its flavour. Scents of elderberries, nettles and pep- the Muskateller to particular soils, which can yield high- sometimes also chalk & slate. Schist is the basic rock in the long vegetation cycle; warm summer and autumn pers dominate the region’s fresh and comparatively grade, cellarworthy single-vineyard bottlings. In addition the area of Kitzeck-Sausal, in the north of the Südsteier- days are followed by cool nights, which encourage the early-harvested Sauvignons. Grapefruit & passion fruit to the typical and popular Muskateller aromas, one en- mark. Kitzeck-Sausal forms an island of metamorphic development of a rich aromatic profile and gives the characterise the wines of the mid-range, while goose- counters hints of dried fruits and the flavours of mineral solid rock of the ancient Earth, embraced by sediments of white wines a wealth of nuance as well as an element of berries, redcurrants and intense herbal aromas come salts in the wine. And as easy to drink as the Südsteiermark the Styrian Basin, all of which were formed, geologically nobility. This is true of both the light and fruit-forward into play with top-of-the-line Sauvignons. Muskateller may be, it is every bit as complex and demand- speaking, in relatively recent time. The vines are rooted young wines, the so-called »Junker«, those harbingers ing for the winegrower at work in his vineyard. here on phyllitic clay slates with layers of green schist and quartzite, as well as on sericite and cal- ciphyllite, all belonging to the Eastern Alpine unit of the Alps, which emerges here from the basin. Slate is the optimum soil for growing Rieslings as well, and so it turns out that in Kitzeck-Sausal – an exception for the region – a few hundred

© Manfred Klimek Riesling vines are cultivated. Südsteier- mark Rieslings from these grapes figure among the most extraordinary, rarest and finest Rieslings in the world.

HOMELAND OF THE WOODEN CASK, HOME OF THE BUSCHENSCHANK

The Südsteiermark is also a character- ised by intensive cellar work utilising wooden casks. Almost all high-quality single vineyard wines from the growing region are being matured in new and used barrique barrels (225 or 300 litres) and now increasingly in larger casks of Burgundian dimensions (500 & 600 L). There are also many massive casks, so- called »Stückfass« barrels (1,200 litres). It is one of the arts of the regional cel- larmasters, to gauge and then utilise the flavour-forming element of toasting the barrels in such a way that it enriches the

28 The three regions of the Steiermark The three regions of the Steiermark 29 © Weingut Wohlmuth Weingut ©

Rolling hills, Pannonian climate, untouched nature and vines sinking roots into volcanic stone

Vulkanland Steiermark is not a contiguous area in which in terms of area. All of the white varieties just listed are the vineyards of the various hills and valleys are con- marketed as ‘Vulkanland Steiermark’, while the reds are nected, as is the case in the Südsteiermark; it is rather a sold with the Denomination of Origin ‘Steiermark’. region made up of a few small & medium-sized islands. These islands, which are often very different in terms of The most important wine villages, islands of cultiva- soil and grape varieties – some of which are many kilo- tion and centres of the local wine industry are Bad Rad- metres distant from one another, such as Hartberg and kersburg, Feldbach, Gleisdorf, Hartberg, Kapfenstein, Klöch – embody the diversity of Vulkanland Steiermark, Klöch, Riegersburg, Sankt Anna, Sankt Peter, Straden, The reward of work for many winegrowers – can you believe it? A cold beer in the evening. where the vines do not only grow on volcanic soils, as Tieschen & Weiz. In the north of the region, at the sum- the name of the region might suggest. mit of the Ringkogel (about 600 m above sea level) near Hartberg, there are vineyards that reach from some 400–520 metres above sea level and thus figure among THE LAND OF MANY ISLANDS Austria’s highest-elevation vineyards. While many me- dium-sized and large establishment are to be found in A considerable variety of grapevines grows on the 1,524 the Südsteiermark, growers in Vulkanland Steiermark hectares of Vulkanland Steiermark. Friends of the often cultivate vines as a sideline and sell their wines in wines without at the same time diminishing the character The sustainable success of Südsteiermark wines is guar- Traminer find here, next to Südtirol, the second larg- their own taverns. This engenders an agreeable & lively of the variety. In the Südsteier­mark, this culture of vinifi- anteed by a winegrowing community that is oenologically est area of plantings and old vines as well. And there regional wine culture, which primarily benefits the lo- cation in cask has a history of more than thirty years. The open – both technologically active and near to nature – is another marriage between hillside and variety in the cals themselves. With the exception of a few larger and cellar masters can rely on their many years of experience that has gained experience by travelling and during in- Vulkanland: in Straden and environs, Grauburgunder internationally successful operations, the size of most in creating cuvées, blending the wines in the casks. ternships served in the international wine world. Along is cultivated as the primary variety – with sometimes smallholders’ estates runs about one hectare. with the high density of winegrowers here, the pro- astonishing results for this often misunderstood grape The Südsteiermark could easily be considered the very gramme of the viticultural school in Silberberg also out- variety. And if Traminer (37 hectares) and Grauburgun- Vulkanland Steiermark includes the districts of Hart- prototype of a captivating tourist destination: its combi- fits the coming generation with the best in qualifications. der (35 ha) hold pride of place in the neighbourhood, berg-Fürstenfeld, Südoststeiermark and Weiz, as well as nation of a spectacular landscape and a finely articulated another variety stands at the head of the class in terms the municipalities on the left bank of the Mur in the po- network of culinary delights can without any doubt be Nowhere else – and this is no exaggeration – has the wine of vineyard area: Welschriesling, with 310 hectares litical districts of Metropolitan Graz and Leibnitz. The described as distinctive. Also impressive: the many wine boom made itself felt as keenly over the past thirty years (20.3%). This is followed by parcels of Weissburgunder, land here, which is contiguous to the winegrowing area taverns here, in which far more than a hundred wine- as in the Südsteiermark. Small winegrowers grew into which grows well in the calcareous soils of the region, of what was formerly Styrian territory and now part of growers offer their wonderfully tasty wines to accompa- self-confident, nationally & internationally successful with 239 hectares. The white varieties are rounded-out Slovenia, has been hotly contested and embattled as bor- ny excellently prepared regional specialties – the knack entrepreneurs who were able to realise their individual with Sauvignon Blanc (108 ha), Morillon (92 ha), Gelber derland for long periods of time, from the middle ages for culinary invention is one significant element of the visions. And there image has changed profoundly – they Muskateller (66 ha), Riesling (23 ha), and the red varie- to the present day. Fortified castles and bastions on tow- Südsteiermark’s DNA. are now the stars of the scene. ty Zweigelt, with about 77 hectares, occupies third place ering basalt cliffs attest to this, such as the spectacular

30 The three regions of the Steiermark The three regions of the Steiermark 31 Riegersburg, which is visible from afar in all directions. pyroclasts and as ash rain, which solidified over time to TRAMINER: WITH THE INFLUENCE OF © Anna Stöcher Kapfenstein Castle – which incidentally also houses an become rock, mostly porous. Basalt, on the other hand, is THE PUSZTA estate that focuses on red wine – and other noble resi- cooled magma, liquid rock from the interior of the earth, The climate of Vulkanland Steiermark is characterised dences that emerged in these troubled times have become which cooled down after emerging, solidified into a dense by the transition from the hot & dry Pannonian climate to the scenes of cultural and often vinous/culinary events and hardened form, forming a new layer of rock and soil. the warm & humid, Illyrian Mediterranean climate. The after retirement from their previous roles in defence. region borders Slovenia in the south and Burgenland to GNEISS & SCHIST the east. Across this border, hot winds from the Pannoni- NEW LIFE ON DEAD VOLCANOES an steppes reach far into the south of Vulkanland Steier- In the northern part of the Vulkanland Steiermark, on mark – thus the region is also the warmest of all Styrian Vulkanland Steiermark owes its name to the geology in the south-eastern slope of the so-called »Jogllandes« winegrowing real estate. the south of the region and its extinct volcanoes – a unique near Hartberg, vines grow on the crystalline rock of the feature among Austria’s winegrowing regions. But overall, Eastern Alps, for the most part on gneisses & schist, with In the south of the Vulkanland one also finds production these volcanic soils make up less than ten per cent of the less frequent instances of amphibolites and granites. of Traminer centred around the village of Klöch. Here it basis rock in the vineyards of Vulkanland. The majority of Further towards the southeast the soils are dominated by is very warm for most of the year with very little rainfall the vines grows on varying deposits left by the Paratethys mostly loose and quite variable sand and gravel from the – ideal for Roter Traminer and Gewürztraminer, whose Sea and the long-since dried-up lakes and rivers of the aforementioned Styrian Basin. vines grow at Klöch on nutrient-rich volcanic soil. Styrian Basin, as well as upon quaternary terrace gravels, which usually have a top layer of clay. Vulkanland Steiermark is therefore a land of diverse Gelber Traminer is peripheral in terms of volume, but soils. This also applies to volcanic rock itself. For ex- figures as a specialty here. Its clusters ripen a few days Volcanic rock occurs in Vulkanland as tuff and basalt. ample, a vine growing on tuffs experiences a completely earlier than those of the notably spicy Gewürztramin- Tuff is a material that was launched explosively out of different nutrient uptake than a vine planted in hard ba- er. Thus the wines show a slightly higher alcohol con- volcanoes millions of years ago, which then fell to earth salt, two soils that are found, among Austrian vineyards, tent. Gelber Traminer is appealing for its intense citrus as a precipitate of larger and smaller substances called only in Vulkanland Steiermark. aromas and a somewhat higher degree of acidity, which brings the needed freshness to the wine. All different types of Traminer are cultivated throughout Vulkanland Steiermark, and not only in Klöch. Schloss Kapfenstein – outstanding, not only for its Basically, the grapes coming from volcanic soils here scenic beauty, but also for the quality of the wines. are always a bit riper because of the omnipresent heat, but even in the Vulkanland, the coolness rising from the © Flora P. surroundings at night provides the desirable freshness in the wines, as is the case throughout the Steiermark.

POTENTIAL FOR ROBUST RED WINES

The warmer climate in the vicinity was reason enough to cultivate red wines in the region even before the onset of global warming. The terrain around the volcanic cone Konigsberg is especially dominated by red soils with iron oxide. In addition to the Zweigelt, some Sankt Lau- rent vines – cultivated more extensively in Burgenland – grow here as well.

Vulkanland Steiermark is not only a singular wine re- gion, but also one tourism destination in Austria that has remained in its unspoiled natural state. Four wine trails lead through the romantic hilly landscape, while per- fectly-marked hiking paths offer further possibilities for crossing the country and learning about its special fea- tures. On these paths, small taverns with welcoming hosts invite the traveller to stop for a short break (or even a long one), where visitors not only enjoy the wine but also en- Straden is not only beautiful, but also a fascinating varietal island in Vulkanland Steiermark, counter the other great culinary delicacy of the region: the where Grauburgunder yields wines held in high regard the world over. distinctive Styrian pumpkin seed oil.

32 The three regions of the Steiermark The three regions of the Steiermark 33 © Flora P.

When Schilcher-lovers see Stainz Castle, they know: they have arrived.

Schilcher, sparkling wine & beautiful presshouse/cellars: the most important rosé region in Central Europe.

The winegrowing region Weststeiermark is special for (yet) been overrun by the caravans of tourism, one should two features. With only 546 hectares of cultivated land, it only mention the beauty and unspoiled nature of West- is the smallest winegrowing region in the Steiermark (and steiermark to those who will appreciate it and preserve it. thus one of the smallest of all Austria), and it produces a unique and autochthonous wine in the form of Schilcher, The colour of Weststeiermark is pink, and most of cultivated there in the majority of vineyards. Many other the wines bottled here are rosé: the aforementioned winegrowing regions are probably envious of Weststeier­ Schilcher. These Schilcher are obtained exclusively mark, for Schilcher can only be vinified here, and here from the variety Blauer Wildbacher, a grape which al- only in this manner. ready carries with it something of an eternal tradition, but which has only been propagated to a greater degree Weststeiermark is ancient wine country and was, like since the mid 1980s. The region’s winegrowers realised all the other winegrowing regions of Steiermark, also that it is not the cultivation of international varieties that cultivated by the Romans, as well as the Celts and the promotes the development of a region, but that only the Illyrians living there before the Romans came. The vine- cultivation of regional specialties can best express the yards of Weststeiermark extend like a long and narrow distinctive nature of the Weststeiermark. The rosé wine band from the foothills of the Koralpe Range and the boom of the last twenty years certainly contributed to Reinischkogel southward to the Slovenian border. Some the success of the Schilcher to a certain extent, and the cultivated parcels begin on the slopes at 420 metres appreciably growing processing of Schilcher-wines to above sea level and end atop the hills at an elevation of Sekt and other sparkling wines prepared the ground for about 600 metres – among the highest-situated vineyards a considerable export of these wines from this then quite in the state and in Austria. small growing region.

TAKE TIME TO MAKE THE TOUR THE LAND OF THE BLAUER WILDBACHER On the way from Ligist in the north of the region, via Sankt Stefan ob Stainz to Deutschlandsberg & Eibiswald, steep And because Schilcher is typical for the region, the Blau- slopes, with small, picturesque cellarhouses line the curvy er Wildbacher dominates the vineyards of the Weststeier- roads – the »Kellerstöckel« – as they are called, built into the mark today, with approximately 450 of the 546 hectares hillsides – is the regional variant of the cellar house and win- under vines. Incidentally, the name Blauer Wildbacher ery of small winegrowers. Taking a detour to villages such is a derivation from »Herrschaft Wildbacher«, the for- as Greisdorf, Gundersdorf, Wildbach or Wies leaves viv- mer lords who ruled the land; the name Schilcher derives id impressions of the traditional, Styrian foundation upon from the iridescent (in German, »schillernd«) rosé colour which viticultural in the region is built. Weststeiermark of the wine. For decades, Schilcher was merely a rustic, is a modern winegrowing region with an extremely rustic acidulous and fruity country wine, which was all drunk setting, which – one can say – represents another type of up by the farmers in the region, the other inhabitants and legacy in world viticulture. And because the region has not travellers spending the night. After the construction of

34 The three regions of the Steiermark The three regions of the Steiermark 35 the Southern Railway under Emperor Franz Joseph, a channels into the Koralpe Range and supports the vine- few bottles also found their way via Graz to Vienna and yards around Sankt Stefan, Wildbach and Schwanberg. from there to Prague, all places where the Schilcher did The Paratethys Sea, dried up for millennia, and the riv- not earn a good reputation. ers leading into the sea made their contributions to the soil of the Weststeiermark; they also deposited greenish Origin Ironically, this classification of Schilcher as a rustic sands, which modulate into fine-grained layers of sandy farmer’s wine, as an acidic drink of simple virtues, pro- clay. Hard, flat gneiss (so-called plate gneiss) is the defin- vides an attractive biography for it today, giving it (ap- ing rock of Weststeiermark. Its coarse weathered debris propriately) a proletarian history, which is also a history and rubble passing into the basin, its greenish sands and of which the land can be proud. sandy-clay deposits, as well as the sandy-conglomerate deposits in the south, complete the predominantly lime- The Schilcher that are vinified today can only be rough- stone-poor lithic suite of Weststeiermark. ly compared to those of forty or more years ago. This is above all due to the winegrowers of Weststeiermark, The various soils of West Styria and the respective sit- who accentuate nuances in the variety Blauer Wild­ uation in the area itself make themselves noticed in the © Flora P. bacher with modern and various viticultural techniques, bouquet, in the aroma and in the flavour of the wines. which half a century ago were either neglected or simply The range extends from wild strawberries to currants to unknown. In addition to the rapidly increasing number grapefruit. Especially in the south, the wines are some- of sparkling Schilcher, there is also a bit of outstand- what more opulent. The flavour of the Schilcher is popu- ing nobly sweet Auslese-level Prädikatwein from Blauer larly described as ‘fruity & lively’. Wildbacher – wines that represent an absolute rarity on the international sweet wine market. And then – this is of HOT SUMMERS, MILD WINTERS course a consequence of global warming – the winegrow- ers of Weststeiermark produce a few concentrated and Climatic conditions are also responsible for this typical robust, fruit-forward, mineral-driven and full-bodied Schilcher fruitiness. The region is characterised by the red wines from the otherwise rather lightweight Wild- so-called Illyrian climate: summers are hot and rainy, the bacher in some vintages. This will probably increase in winters mild. Average annual temperatures are between the next few years in the number of bottles and will pro- 9–10.5°C, the average annual rainfall between 800 and vide a novel surprise. But all wines of Weststeiermark 1,200 mm per square metre. Protected from the wind by remain rarities, thanks to the small acreage under vines. the Koralpe Range, the region profits from robust warm- ing on the slopes during the summer and autumn, which SCHILCHER REMAINS A RARITY ensures optimal ripening of the clusters. In addition: during the day the air currents are directed uphill, while The fact that Schilcher was and remains a rarity on the at night they bring powerful cooling as downdrafts. This whole is also due to the variety itself, as Blauer Wild- climatic feature favours the expression of fresh fruit and bacher demands a lot from growers in the vineyard – and lively acidity. not only because of the steep slopes. The variety is vig- orous and needs a lot of foliage canopy management. In Despite the dominance of the Blue Wildbacher, one addition, it is susceptible to the fungal disease downy should not forget the other varieties that are grown here, mildew (Peronospora). It buds very early, and the harvest such as Weissburgunder or Sauvignon Blanc. These takes place between mid-September and late October, wines are similar in their style to the fresh white wines with most of the work in normal years is done in early of Südsteiermark and are as necessary here as they are October. welcome, rounding out the wines of this already very distinctive winegrowing region Weststeiermark. The winegrowing region Weststeiermark includes the city of Graz and the districts of Deutschlandsberg and Voits- berg, as well as the municipalities in the suburbs of state capital Graz – with the exception of the communities on the left bank of the River Mur. The vines of Weststeier- mark are usually found growing on acidic, crystalline, solid rock of the Eastern Alps, and toward the east on In 2018 the DAC regions of the Steiermark were coarse and predominantly loose rock of the Styrian Basin. The so-called Schwanberger Blockschutt with its cubic created, and the firstDAC WINES of the metre-sized blocks of crystalline stone reaches deeply in STEIERMARK were bottled, available as of 2019.

36 The three regions of the Steiermark Origin »Steiermark« 37 LEITMOTIF: DAC © Weingut Schauer

The Steiermark has three DAC-regions, each of them Give the wine the security unique, which will be described in detail: SüdsteiermarkDAC, of its origins WeststeiermarkDAC & Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC. THE STYRIAN WINE PYRAMID Austria’s wine industry has not always had only good times... In 1985, when Austria’s wine industry plunged into a severe crisis that in many cases threatened its very existence, the Republic of Austria decided to give winegrowers and wine merchants a powerful organisa- RIEDEN- tion to literally pull the cart out of the mud. This or- WEINE ganisation, called the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB for short), together with a young generation of ORTSWEINE winemakers, all of whom knew what great wines could be produced in Austria, managed to save the wine in- dustry.

GEBIETSWEINE At that time, ‘zero hour’ 1985, the new Austrian Quali­ tätswein culture was born, which today celebrates in- ternational successes. This story is particularly note- worthy because, for the first time (and so far the only time) in Europe, a group of farmers – the Austrian wine- In the pyramid shown here, the classification of the wines growers – managed to reinvent themselves, to prepare as well as the special characteristics of their production themselves for new markets, to guarantee their own are listed. The three DAC regions of the Steiermark are, survival. This has moulded Austrian winemakers into seen both altogether and individually, distinct, of dif- self-assured entrepreneurs who are open to innovation, ferent weight, and characterised by the collectivity of while uniting tradition and modernity. the Qualitätswein expressing the respective terroirs: the handicraft of caring, sustainable and environmentally CONTROLLED AND PROTECTED ORIGIN conscious winegrowers. The Styrian DAC regions are the only DACs in Austria where harvesting by hand is com- One such innovation is the DAC system, founded in pulsory and in which Ortswein & Riedenwein claim the 2002. DAC means ‘Districtus Austriae Controllatus’; the foreground. abbreviation appended to a wine guarantees controlled and protected areas of origin. The DAC system was cre- ated to emphasise the origin of the wines more than the respective grape variety, and was created to collect & organise the regionally typical wines of a region under one common brand. The DAC system was also developed to vinify larger volumes of wine exhibiting a recognis- able style. The DAC system ensures security and serves the consumers, the trade – and not least the winegrow- ers themselves, who are finally able to refer to standards The Styrian DAC regions are the only winegrowing regions in Austria in which harvesting by hand is substantiating the origins of their wines and the typicity mandatory and where Ortswein and Riedenwein stand in the foreground. of their region.

38 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 39 ‘GEBIETSWEIN’ (REGIONAL WINE) THE ACE: ORTSWEINE

Approved varieties are: Welschriesling, Weissburgun- The first, widest and most der, Morillon, Grauburgunder, Riesling, Muskateller, The second level on the DAC Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer & Schilcher (Blauer Wild- comprehensive level of the bacher, Weststeiermark only), as well as cuvées com- Pyramid, narrower in scope © Flora P. Styrian DAC pyramid: posed from these varieties. but broadest in appeal, is these are the DAC regional DAC Ortsweine, the villages wines wines.

The DAC regional wines are the young, fresh & fruit-for- The Steiermark’s DAC Ortsweine represent the local & ward wines from the three DAC regions SüdsteiermarkDAC, regional flavour of the three wine regions, Südsteier- Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC & WeststeiermarkDAC. They mark, Vulkanland Steiermark & Weststeiermark. The are conceived to give an initial, grounded impression Styrian DAC Ortsweine are also intended to capture the of the general picture (i.e. soils, climate, cellar & crafts- differences between the respective municipalities and manship) of the respective region and present the re- areas of production; to illustrate them in wines that speak spective grape variety (or grape varieties in a cuvée) with of the respective soils, the microclimatic conditions and the greatest possible clarity in terms of flavour. sometimes also of the leading grape varieties in the ‘islands’. The Styrian DAC Ortsweine are ambassadors Regional wines are the ambassadors of a light & lively of the often unfamiliar but rich variety of viticulture in pleasure inherent to wine; they must be finished dry, this state. with no more than four grams of residual sugar per litre. All regional wines are only released to the market – after Styrian DAC Ortsweine are dry wines; they may contain a maturing-period of several weeks in tank and bottle – a maximum of four grams of residual sugar per litre. on the first of March in the year following the harvest. Exceptions are (because the residual sugar is an inte- As an exception – because these are wines that offer their gral part of the character of these wines) Traminer from particular freshness as an attractive factor – wines vini- Klöch – including those finished halbtrocken (halfway fied from Welschriesling and the West Styrian Schilcher dry), or vinified as Prädikatswein (Auslese, etc.) – are (variety: Blauer Wildbacher) may be, as the winegrower marketed without any limit to residual sugar as DAC prefers, released to the market immediately upon receipt regional wines. of the federal control number (from mid December). Styrian DAC Ortsweine are only made available for pur- THE FRESH & FRUIT-FORWARD WINES chase from the first of May in the year following the har- OF THE STEIERMARK vest – after several months of maturation in tank or cask and in bottle. Excluded here – because an earlier release The popular »Steirischer Junker«, the young wines that date corresponds to the character of the wine – is Schilcher are the first harbingers of the new vintage, are not DAC from the Weststeiermark. It may be sold as DAC regional regional wines; they are released and sold as wines wine as of February first in the year following the harvest. without DAC classification. The individual municipalities of the DAC Ortsweine are: Although the Styrian DAC regional wines are fresh and SüdsteiermarkDAC: Kitzeck-Sausal, Eichberg, Leutschach, fruit-driven in character, and designed to be consumed Gamlitz & Ehrenhausen. Permissible grape varieties: Welschriesling, Weiss­ in the year following the harvest, some examples show burgunder, Morillon, Grauburgunder, Riesling, Muska- a striking capacity for aging. It is therefore quite a Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC: teller, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer & Schilcher (Blauer pleasurable experiment to keep a few of them in the Oststeiermark, Riegersburg, Kapfenstein, Sankt Anna, Wildbacher, Weststeiermark only), as well as cuvées (ex- cellar for a while and observe their development, which Tieschen, Klöch, Straden & Sankt Peter. cept Blauer Wildbacher) composed from these varieties. typically demonstrates remarkable finesse. In this way, DAC

these DAC regional wines also attest to the substance © Flora P. Weststeiermark : Ligist, Stainz, Deutschlandsberg & Primary varieties have been established for Ortsweine; & stability of even young, fresh & fruity Styrian wines. Eibiswald. these can be found listed on the following pages.

40 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 41 ORTSWEINE OF SüdsteiermarkDAC has five viticultural districts. Here they are listed from north to south:

Süd DAC

KITZECK-SAUSAL Differences in elevation from the source material; limestone/marl highest point of a particular hill to soils (eastern area). the bottom of the valley are typical- Key to symbols: THE COMMUNES ly more than 200 metres. Most of the LANDSCAPE Kitzeck in Sausal, Lang, Leb- vineyards are planted at altitudes of The winegrowing district Gamlitz Ortswein demarcations ring-Sankt Margarethen, Sankt An- between 380–650 metres, which con- features a gently undulating land- Volcanic rock drä-Höch, Sankt Nikolai in Sausal tributes to good ventilation of the scape with steep vineyards, orchards and Tillmitsch. From Gleinstätten, vines and prevents their contact with and small mixed forests. The vine- SlateSCHIEFER the cadastral commune of Sausal the morning fogs. The steepest vine- yards are situated between 320–550 near Pistorf. From Heimschuh, the yards, with an inclination of more metres above sea level; orientation LimestoneKALKSTEIN vineyards of the Sulm. From Lei- than 70 per cent in Kitzeck-Sausal, ranges from east to south to west. OpokOPOK (calcareous marl) bnitz, the cadastral communities can almost exclusively be cultivated Vineyards are partly warm and Grottenhofen, Kaindorf an der Sulm only by hand. wind-protected kettle-shaped sites, Gravel & Kogelberg. while some exposed steep hills (so- Sand/sandstone STYLE called »Kogl«) rise above other parts AREA UNDER VINES The vegetation period in Kitzeck- of the landscape. There are two 419 hectares Sausal is longer than in the rest of the streams in rift valleys (Steinbachgra- Südsteiermark; the harvest takes place ben & Kranachgraben) that influence PRIMARY VARIETIES on average one to two weeks later. the microclimate and widen the dif- Sauvignon Blanc & Riesling The meagre slate soils give the wines ference between daytime and night- a cool, spicy and firm minerality. time temperatures; a circumstance SOILS that leads to increased expression of Predominantly slate (red, blue- fruit in the grapes. black, green & grey), formed from GAMLITZ crystalline schistic stone. Occasion- STYLE ally limestone soils (Leithakalk, The rich and ripe fruit aroma (yel- in the eastern border area [Sankt THE COMMUNES low & red fruits) is produced in the Nikolai/Sausal]). Gamlitz, with the exception of the warm and kettle-shaped vineyards, cadastral community Sulz. From which – especially in Sauvignon LANDSCAPE Ehrenhausen an der Weinstrasse, Blanc – yield very expressive wines. The Kitzeck-Sausal district is the the cadastral commune Unter­ Delicately vegetable aromas develop northernmost part of the Südsteier- lupitscheni. From Leibnitz & Wagna, here in the cooler vineyards above mark and open to the nearby Alps. the winegrowing areas to the right 400 metres elevation. The Gelber The Kitzeck-Sausal area is made side of the Sulm. Muskateller are sculpted by the up of much older sorts of rock than warm, porous sand and gravel soils, those of the surrounding hilly land- AREA UNDER VINES showing marked elements of herb- scape of the basin. They came into 693 hectares al spice (meadow herbs). The wines existence during ancient geolog- show great finesse on the palate and SLOVENIA ic time and belong to the Eastern PRIMARY VARIETIES are richly detailed in flavour. Alpine unit, which here stands out Sauvignon Blanc & Muskateller from the basin’s alluvial deposits in a threshold area, as one of the eastern- SOILS most manifestations. The landscape Predominantly sandy & gravel soils, is therefore somewhat rougher here. originating from sandy and pebbly

42 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 43 EICHBERG EHRENHAUSEN LEUTSCHACH

THE COMMUNES THE COMMUNES THE COMMUNES © Flora P. Arnfels, with the cadastral com- Ehrenhausen an der Weinstrasse, Leutschach an der Weinstrasse, munities Arnfels & Maltschach. with the exception of the cadastral with the exception of the cadastral Leutschach an der Weinstrasse community Unterlupitscheni. From communities Kranach and Eich- with the cadastral districts of Eich- Gamlitz, the cadastral community berg-Trautenburg. berg-Trautenburg & Kranach. From Sulz. From the village of Strass, the Sankt Johann/Saggautal, the cadas- vineyards on the right side of the AREA UNDER VINES tral communities Eichberg-Arnfels Mur. 631 hectares & Sankt Johann/Saggautal. From Grossklein, the cadastral commu- AREA UNDER VINE PRIMARY VARIETIES nities Oberfahrenbach, Nestelberg, 426 hectares Sauvignon Blanc & Muskateller Nestelberg bei Grossklein & Mat- telsberg. From Heimschuh, cadas- PRIMARY VARIETIES SOILS tral communities Nestelberg bei Sauvignon Blanc & Morillon Predominantly heavy beds of calcar- Heimschuh & Unterfahrenbach. eous marl (Opok), partly traversed SOILS by gravel banks AREA UNDER VINES Predominantly medium-heavy to 355 hectares heavy limestone soils (Leithakalk, LANDSCAPE also known as coral limestone); The Leutschach vineyards are PRIMARY VARIETIES source material Leitha-limestone. among the most southerly vine- Sauvignon Blanc & Muskateller Some Opok (calcareous marl) in the yards in the Steiermark and are southwestern portion. seated between 380–570 me- SOILS tres elevation on the hillsides. Light gravel & sandy soils from allu- LANDSCAPE In Leutschach, south-facing ket- vial deposits, or sandstone. Ehrenhausen is the southeastern- tle-shaped sites with eastern & most municipality in the Südsteier­ western foothills and slopes of up LANDSCAPE mark. Adjacent to the Pannonian to 75% predominate. The growing The hill-chain of Eichberg lies be- plains and the River Mur, there are region is characterised by warm tween Gamlitz & Leutschach at massive vineyards of coral lime- updrafts, which meet cool air cur- Behind every other hill there’s a Buschenschank. Life is good in the Steiermark. 450–600 metres above sea level and stone and calcareous marl. The rents coming from the western is characterised by steep, exposed south-facing, steep vineyards open Koralpe Range. This climatic sit- locations with high crests. The vine- wide in each direction and lie at uation results in substantial tem- yard areas are often surrounded by about 300–530 metres above sea perature differences between day cooling forests, and the proximity level. and night and an almost complete to the Koralpe Range contributes to absence of any fog. the cool microclimates here. STYLE The deeply-rooted vines grow under STYLES STYLE rather barren conditions and allow The calcareous marl soils and the The grapes ripen very late because the grapes to ripen slowly and har- great temperature differences be- of the elevation and the coolness of moniously. The wines are brilliant tween day and night are responsible the climate; the wines feature herb- for their delicate citrus notes, with for spicy and varied – occasionally al/spicy notes in the aromatics arc, structural length on the palate as even dark – aromas. The wines are show appreciable finesse and are well as ripe acidity and a salty, spicy robust, juicy and well-structured. characterised by moderate alcohol finish. content.

44 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 45 ORTSWEINE OF Vulkanland SteiermarkDAC has nine viticultural districts. Here, they are listed from north to south:

Vulkanland DAC

OSTSTEIERMARK a. d. Rittschein, Markt Hartmanns- Gossendorf, Leitersdorf, Mühldorf, dorf, Riegersburg, Unterlamm & Oedt & Weissenbach; Gnas, with the Key to symbols: Fehring with the cadastral commu- cadastral communities of Fischa, THE COMMUNES nities north of the Raab: Tiefen- Gnas, Hirsdorf, Kohlberg II, Maier- Ortswein demarcations The districts Hartberg-Fürstenfeld bach, Oedgraben, Stang, Habegg, dorf and Obergnas; Paldau, with the Volcanic rock & Weiz north of the Ilzbach – with- Hatzendorf, Hohenbrugg, Wein- cadastral community Perlsdorf. out the municipalities Loipersdorf, berg, Johnsdorf. Schist & gneiss Fürstenfeld, Söchau, Grosswilfers- AREA UNDER VINES Limestone dorf, Ilz, Ottendorf a. d. Rittschein AREA UNDER VINES 90 hectares & the town of Hartmannsdorf. 298 hectares Opok (calcareous marl) PRIMARY VARIETIES AREA UNDER VINES PRIMARY VARIETIES Sauvignon Blanc & Morillon Sand & Gravel 325 hectares Sauvignon Blanc & Weissburgunder Sand/sandstone SOILS PRIMARY VARIETIES SOILS Limestone-free, weathered volcan- Sauvignon Blanc & Weissburgunder Predominantly soils on sedimentary ic rock (basalt, tuff), calcareous & stone (sandy gravel [alluvial deposits], limestone-free sedimentary soils SOILS silt & clay [marine sediments]); weath- (gravel [alluvial deposits], sand & Predominantly weathered volcanic ered volcanic rock (primarily tuff). loam [marine sediments]) rock (basalt and tuff); sedimenta- ry soils (gravel [alluvial deposits] LANDSCAPE LANDSCAPE sand & silty clay (marine sediments); The Riegersburg, an 11th-century The almost 600-metre-high schist (northern area). fortification that has been built & re- Gleichen­berger Kogel (volcanic built over the centuries, dominates cones several million years old) are LANDSCAPE the region that reaches out above it distinctive for the region and hence Embedded in a wide variety of or- in an imposing manner. The Orts- provide it with its name, located in chardlands, winegrowing here is wein district surrounding the castle the centre of the Ortswein district. scattered among many small and of- is located in the middle of the Vul- In the north, the Ortswein district ten picturesque sites. The lovely and kanland and is bordered on the south extends into the Raab valley (the heterogeneous landscape forms the by the Raab Valley and to the north River Raab forms a natural border to northern part of the Vulkanland and by the Feistritz Valley. Due to the the local wine area Riegersburg), in embraces the winegrowing area on steeply sloping hillsides traversed by the southeast to the Stradner Kogel. the slopes of the subalpine Ringkogel, streams and rivers, numerous vine- In the south & west, Gleichenberg where the vines are planted at highly yards favoured with unique microcli- borders the two Ortswein districts exposed altitudes up to 570 metres. mates are found here. Straden and Sankt Peter. The vine- yards lie like islands between mead- SLOVENIA ows, fields and forests, scattered over RIEGERSBURG GLEICHENBERG gentle hills, which are crisscrossed here and there by streams. The nu- merous, small vineyards favoured THE COMMUNES THE COMMUNES with distinctive microclimates are Loipersdorf, Fürstenfeld, Söchau, Bad Gleichenberg; Feldbach with situated between 300 and 400 metres Grosswilfersdorf, Ilz, Ottendorf the cadastral communities Feldbach in elevation.

46 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 47 village of Tieschen. The Ortswein LANDSCAPE SOILS LANDSCAPE KAPFENSTEIN TIESCHEN district is characterised by a diverse, Klöch is located in the southeast Sedimentary, partly calcareous The community of Straden lies in the hilly agricultural landscape with a of Vulkanland. The vineyards are (sandy gravel [alluvial deposits], southern half of the winegrowing re- variety of soil types. grouped around an extinct volcano, THE COMMUNES sand & clay [marine sediments]); gion Vulkanland on by the gentle hills THE COMMUNE today’s Klöchberg, on the plateaus Kapfenstein & Fehring with the ca- weathered volcanic rock (basalt and of an ancient gravel plateau as well as Tieschen and the slopes of the predominant- dastral communities south of the tuff, mainly to the west). the foothills of a former volcano on KLÖCH ly volcanic environment. Centres Raab: Pertlstein, Höflach, Fehring, the Stradener Kogel. The vineyards AREA UNDER VINES of winegrowing are the vineyards Schiefer, Petersdorf I, Petzelsdorf & LANDSCAPE are scattered like islands between 97 hectares Klöchberg and Hochwarth. Burgfeld . The village of Sankt Anna is perched 280–440 metres of elevation on steep THE COMMUNE at 403 metres above sea level upon slopes and high plateaus around the PRIMARY VARIETIES Klöch AREA UNDER VINES a ridge of argillaceous marl, sand historic market town of Straden. Ex- Sauvignon Blanc & the Pinot family 73 hectares and gravel, from which one can see position of the grapevines ranges AREA UNDER VINES most of the vineyards on the slopes. from east to south to west. SOILS 179 hectares PRIMARY VARIETIES This striking hillside, the Stradener Predominantly weathered volcanic Sauvignon Blanc & Weissburgunder Kogel, is one of the largest extinct rock (basalt and tuff); sedimentary PRIMARY VARIETIES volcanoes in the region. It functions SANKT PETER soils (gravel [alluvial deposits], sand Sauvignon Blanc & Traminer SOILS as a climatic divide and protects the & clay [marine sediments]). Primarily weathered volcanic rock vineyards from the cooling weather THE COMMUNES SOILS (basalt/tuff) laced with olivines conditions of the mid-Alpine, Styr- Sankt Peter am Ottersbach, Mureck, LANDSCAPE Predominantly weathered volcanic (source, plutonic rock, originating ian north. Most of the vineyards are Mettersdorf, Schwarzautal, Jager- The vineyards are located around rock (basalt in particular, but also from magma); sedimentary soils between 300–390 metres above sea berg, Sankt Stefan im Rosental, the Steintal on slopes that are spurs tuff with inclusions of various siz- (gravel [alluvial deposits], sand, silt & level, though in Frutten-Giessels- Kirchbach-Zerlach, Pirching am of extinct volcanoes and face the es), quite ferrous in places. clay [marine sediments]) dorfberg as high as 460 metres. The Traubenberg, and additionally the area borders on Südburgenland in cadastral communities Baumgarten, LANDSCAPE the east, to the southeast on Slovenia. Unterauersbach, Raning, Aug-Rä- The town of Kapfenstein lies be- disch & Trössing west of the Gnas- tween Bad Gleichenberg and bach, Hofstätten, Schrötten (munici- SPECIAL FEATURES OF THE Fehring and is geologically & sceni- pality of Deutsch Goritz), Weinburg, VULKANLAND STRADEN cally dominated by the high plateau Siebing, Sankt Nikolai ob Drassling The greatest variety of soil types can be of the extinct Kapfenstein volcano (municipality of Sankt Veit in the Süd- found in the winegrowing regions south with its distinctive 11th century cas- THE COMMUNES steiermark). of Kapfenstein, although the climatic

tle. Between Kapfenstein Castle & The district Straden includes the conditions remain rather consistent. The © Weingut Krenn 49 Fehring one encounters the steeply villages reaching to the Gnasbach AREA UNDER VINES Illyrian climate here is clearly marked by rising Kuruzzenkogel, the second in the west and the northern parts 125 hectares Pannonian influences, which means that volcanic cone in the small region. In of the municipality Deutsch Goritz, one finds here the driest and hottest vine- the northwest around Schloss Bert- in addition come Krobathen, Unter- PRIMARY VARIETIES yards in the Steiermark. The soil types, holdstein, the terrain rises again be- spitz, Oberspitz, Haselbach, Pop- Sauvignon Blanc & Weissburgunder however, vary greatly from calcareous to fore descending to the bottom of the pendorf, Ebersdorf, Grabersdorf & almost limestone-free. They are charac- Raab Valley, which determines the Trössing east of the Gnasbach. SOILS terised here and there by sandy material, northern boundary of the commune. Predominantly sedimentary soils, then clay again, as well as by gravels and AREA UNDER VINES partly calcareous (sandy gravel [allu- volcanic deposits. The soil formations run 166 hectares vial deposits], sand, silt & clay [ma- like a marbling through the vineyard land- SANKT ANNA rine sedimentation]). scapes Every vineyard is different, every PRIMARY VARIETIES wine is unique & distinctive. Sauvignon Blanc & Grauburgunder THE COMMUNE LANDSCAPE Ultimately the climate also plays an es- Sankt Anna / Aigen SOILS The municipality of Sankt Peter lies sential role in the style of the wine. The Predominantly deep sedimentary in the southwest of the winegrowing district of Oststeiermark in particular is AREA UNDER VINES soils, partly calcareous (sandy grav- region Vulkanland and is character- relatively different in climatic terms from 140 hectares el [river sediments], sand, silt & clay ised by rolling hills and valleys with the southern part of the Vulkanland. It [marine deposits]); weathered volcan- hilly to steep vineyards, orchards, is close to the mountains on the Styrian PRIMARY VARIETIES ic rock (basalt & tuff). forests & fields – an expansive, pic- border, which allows thunderstorms to Sauvignon Blanc & Morillon turebook land of traditional, mixed plague the vineyards more often, but also agriculture. provides moderate temperatures.

48 Origin »Steiermark« 49 ORTSWEINE OF WeststeiermarkDAC has four viticultural districts. Here, they are listed from north to south: West DAC

STYLE STYLE LIGIST Wines with complex fruit and a vi- Wines with complex fruit and a vi- brant minerality are produced on the brant minerality are produced on the Key to symbols: COMMUNES sparse gneiss and slate soils and un- sparse gneiss and slate soils, under In Ligist, the cadastral communities der the influence of the cold falling the influence of the cold downdrafts Ortswein demarcations Ligist, Grabenwarth & Steinberg. winds of the Koralpe Range. of the Koralpe Range. Volcanic rock From Krottendorf-Gaisfeld, the ca- dastral communities Krottendorf, Schist & gneiss Gaisfeld and Gasselberg. From STAINZ DEUTSCHLANDSBERG Limestone Söding-Sankt Johann, the cadastral districts Hausdorf, Köppling, Pich- Opok (calcareous marl) ling bei Mooskirchen & Moosing. THE COMMUNES THE COMMUNES From Mooskirchen, the cadastral From Sankt Stefan ob Stainz, the ca- The cadastral communities of Gravel communities Stögersdorf, Flutten- dastral districts Greisdorf, Gunders- Gersdorf, Feldbaum, Müllegg, Sand/sandstone dorf, Neudorf bei Mooskirchen & dorf, Grubberg, Steinreib, Lemsitz, Sulz, Bösenbach, Unterlaufenegg, Giessenberg SanktStefan, Zirknitz & Pirkhof. Gams, Bergegg, Wildbachdorf, From Stainz the cadastral Sierling, Wildbach, Hinterleiten, Ober- AREA UNDER VINES Teufenbach, Gamsgebirg, Kothvogl, laufenegg, Burgegg & Warnblick are 50 hectares Stainz, Rassach & Herbersdorf. From located within the municipality of Deutschlandsberg, the cadastral Deutschlandsberg. From Frauental, PRIMARY VARIETIES communities Vochera am Weinberg, the cadastral districts Schamberg, Sauvignon Blanc & Blauer Wild­ Mitteregg & Hohenfeld Zeierling & Gleinz. The cadastral bacher (vinified as Schilcher) districts Hohlbach, Hollenegg, AREA UNDER VINES Trag, Aichegg, Neuberg, Mains- SOILS 196 hectares dorf and Schwanberg are located Predominantly limestone-poor in Schwanberg. From Sankt Peter stony brown earth, originating PRIMARY VARIETIES im Sulmtal, the cadastral districts from crystalline [plate gneiss & Sauvignon Blanc & Blauer Wild­ Moos, & Sankt Peter im Sulmtal schists. bacher (vinified as Schilcher) AREA UNDER VINES LANDSCAPE SOILS 124 hectares The Ortswein commune Ligist is Sandy & limestone-poor soils, located in the northern part of the formed on crystalline schists & PRIMARY VARIETIES winegrowing region Weststeier- gneisses. Sauvignon Blanc & Blauer Wild­ mark, about 25 kilometres south bacher (vinified as Schilcher) of Graz. The landscape embraces LANDSCAPE winegrowing on gentle hills as well The Ortswein district of Stainz is SOILS as on extremely steep slopes. The the centre of the winegrowing re- Predominantly gneiss, formed from vineyards are situated on the foot- gion Weststeiermark. The well- crystalline slate gneiss (northern hills of the Reinischkogel, some known Stainz Castle is situated on area); loamy, sandy & gravel soils vines even at 650 metres above sea the southern foothills of the Rosen- (southern area). SLOVENIA level. The ruins of the old fortress kogel and Reinischkogel. Here the Burg Ligist provide the principal vines grow on steep slopes at up to tourist attraction in the region. 600 metres above sea level.

50 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 51 LANDSCAPE The Ortswein commune Deutschlands­ RIEDENWEIN: berg is located in the middle of the A PERSPECTIVE growing region Weststeiermark. The vineyards are situated on foothills of the Koralpe Range. In Deutschlands-

berg, the vines are also growing in / Knappenhof© Flora P. the region’s highest-lying vineyards (380–600 metres above sea level). The mighty, medieval – and in the The third, narrowest and qualitatively most important early modern era structurally- ex- panded – Deutschlandsberg Castle level of the Styrian DAC pyramid: these are the DAC sits amidst the vineyards, and the nearby forest offers a wild & roman- Riedenweine, single-vineyard wines. tic destination for excursions.

STYLE The gneiss soils in the northern area bring forth wines with a pronounced primary aromatic arc. The Schilcher tend to be lighter here. On the other hand the sandy & gravelly soils in the southern part of Deutschlandsberg inspire the secondary aromas in the wines to unfold more perceptibly: riper to spicier styles of wine with enhanced notes of juicy strawberries and wild strawberries. The acidity Fashionable growers, lovely wines is usually not so racy as it can be in wines from crystalline soils. The wines are usually deeper in colour, fuller in body and evince more pro- nounced tannins.

EIBISWALD AREA UNDER VINES slopes of the foothills of the eastern 155 hectares Alpine Koralpe Rang. Coming from THE COMMUNES Graz, the well-known Schilcher Wine The municipalities of Wies including PRIMARY VARIETIES Trail and viticulture itself find their Limberg, Mitterlimberg, Buchegg, Sauvignon Blanc & Blauer Wild­ geologic/climatic terminus here. Gaisseregg, Wies, Pörbach, Aug, bacher (vinified as Schilcher) Altenmarkt, Etzendorf, Vorders- STYLE dorf, Kogl, Wernersdorf & Unter- SOILS These predominantly sandy soils fresen. From Eibiswald, the cadastral Predominantly loamy soils on sand & usually produce riper, spicier wines communities Wuggitz, Pitschgau, gravel, as well as limestone-free soils with prominent notes of strawber- Haselbach, Oberlatein, Kornriegl, of crystalline schists & gneisses. ries & wild strawberries. The acidity Feisternitz, Hörmsdorf, Sterglegg, is usually not so perceptibly racy as Aichberg, Aibl & Stammeregg. From LANDSCAPE it can be in wines from crystalline

Sankt Martin im Sulmtal, the cadas- The Ortswein district Eibiswald is soils. The wines are usually deep- Wohlmuth Weingut © tral districts of Pitschgauegg, Tom- located in the southernmost part of er in colour, fuller in the body and bach, Kopeinigg, Gasseldorf, Ober- the winegrowing region Weststei- have more tannins. The gneiss soils hart & Bergla. From Pölfing-Brunn, ermark. Close to the Slovenian bor- to the northwest are more likely to the cadastral communities Jagerigg & der, its topography is hilly to moun- produce wines with pronounced pri- Working on the steep slopes of the Styrian Sausal takes time and energy. Nevertheless, the winegrowers Brunn. tainous. The vineyards grow on the mary aromas and brighter colour. in Kitzeck are privileged: they work in one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world.

52 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 53 The state of things? © Holger Riegel In any case, quite unique!

No question, great wines are produced in the Steiermark. with machines in the nearly impassable and often quite But to claim that the winegrowers all pulled to turn the mountainous area with gradients up to over 80%. So big wheel would be exaggerated. Rather, they work – winegrowers have to work their way through the vines each for themself – in a microcosm. The microcosm is with many detailed, often laborious procedures and called »Ried« and these parcels are often very small, but many kilometres of footsteps each day. also truly distinctive and thus figure among the very fin- est vineyards in the world. And it is unlikely that one grower can go to school on the activities of the others, because there are no two vine- As a rule, a winegrower will own parcels in one or even yards that are identical in their conditions and their cli- several vineyards. Sometimes a number of growers own mate. So every winegrower must determine what makes vines in one of these sites. And as different their ap- his vineyard so special, so unique, and then decide how proach in the vineyard can be, that is how different their to get the most out of it. wines will taste. One does not get too far trying to work © Holger Riegel

Small grape: big flavour. A true Styrian!

54 Origin »Steiermark« Origin »Steiermark« 55 Styrian wines are known for their FRAGRANCE and The taste of their JUICINESS, for their SPICES and MINERALITY, for their LIGHTNESS and their SUBSTANCE. And Styrian wines are shaped by their origins to an extreme degree: from the typical Styrian climate, from the different growers’ hands, but also through their soils, which are the common denominator. The Styrian marquee player Sauvignon Blanc shows how differently and dramatically the individual soils can affect the style of the wines.

by Gerhard Retter, sommelier with Styrian blood

SLATE, SCHIST, & GNEISS OPOK

Wines harvested from vines that grow on weathered Wines vinified from grapes whose vines grow on Opok soils such as slate or gneiss usually produce lithe yet ex- soils are mostly full-bodied, soft and creamy in the tremely expressive wines with abundant mineral salts mouth and impart a sense of welcoming warmth. In ad- and intense, varietal aromas. dition, the limestone content of many Opok soils brings with it a perceptible salty minerality. The limestone also VOLCANIC STONE enhances finesse and a delicate fruit aroma in the wine.

As the name would indicate, volcanic soils are indeed SAND & GRAVEL found in Vulkanland Steiermark, where a rather warmer The wines of gravel soils usually have a clear and dis- climate prevails. The wines therefore assume a full- tinctly assertive varietal typicity. Citrus fruit and floral bodied form as well as an expressive aromatic and notes often prevail. The wines tend to show expressive, mineral character. elegant body with a distinctive acidity.

LIMESTONE SAND/SANDSTONE

Limestone soils encourage a varietally typical aroma in Grapes grown on sand or sandstone, usually produce the wines, as well as a firm, almost linear acidic struc- elegant but expressive wines with distinctive structur- ture with soft chalky textures. Wines grown in calcare- al acidity. The fruit aromas are usually rich and rather the Steiermark ous soils tend to be extremely cellarworthy. ripe, coupled with great finesse.

56 From the hills, with hand & heart From theOrigin hills, »Steiermark« with hand & heart 57 © Flora P. THE STEIERMARK PRÄDIKAT The hillside vineyards permit nothing other than 100% manual labour. © Flora P. FROM THE HILLS, WITH HAND & HEART

Many wines of the Steiermark are mountain wines – »Bergwein«. Now, some readers will surely ask if there are vines growing on the steep crests of the Alps. Be- cause there are indeed such towering peaks reaching into the sky quite nearby. But the term »Berg« applies – in agriculture & viticulture – to hills as well. And surely, © Weingut Wohlmuth Weingut © when the vineyards have a slope of more than 26%, the farmer, in this case the winegrower, is obliged to be a bit of a mountaineer.

Viticulture on steeply sloped sites means that almost all work is performed by hand. Pruning the vines in winter. Planting the vines in springtime. The binding of the vines to the trellises, also in the spring. Mowing the lanes between the rows and then around the vines from late spring to late summer. The foliage canopy work on the vines in summer and autumn. Add to that the many passes among the vines during the harvest in autumn, which not infrequently takes place under time constraint. And that is not everything.

Steep slopes are worth a river of gold. The sun shines much more evenly on the vines and the clusters receive greater radiance – more kilojoules, as the scientific term goes. In addition, the soils heat up more and stay warm longer when the night falls. When the cool nocturnal downwinds on the hillsides provide for significant tem- perature swings, this brings more finesse and delicacy into the wine. Steep slopes are therefore not to be cul- squeaky-clean steel tools (shears, etc.), it does not dif- tivated for any romantic notion, but rather because the fer appreciably from the viticulture that was practised landscape is simply the best for growing grapes, and one one or two hundred years ago on a steep slope. May must submit to the landscape. the fully automatic, satellite-controlled harvesters do their work in the fields; on the steep Styrian slopes, Working on the steep slopes involves no modest finan- human beings must do it. This work, this extra effort, cial outlay. Machines are impossible, workers are an of course, is reflected in the operational costs. And is absolute requirement. Steep-slope viticulture is an in- reflected by the winegrowers as little as possible in the dividualistic, artisanal, traditional sort of grape-grow- bottle prices. The question for the reasons behind this ing. And even in the Steiermark, apart from the new, are answered here.

58 From the hills, with hand & heart. FACTS & FIGURES WINE ESTATES & TRADITIONAL TAVERNS

More about Styrian winegrowers, wine estates, taverns & wine bars MAKING WINE SINCE GEOLOGY MOST IMPORTANT along with info about overnight accommodations can be found at www.steiermark.wine WINEPRODUCING

800 BCE (Celts). Development of viticulture Various loose or solid rock foundations COMMUNES by the Romans (about 100 BCE to 300 AD) from the Eastern Alps and the Styrian Ba- sin. In addition, extinct volcanoes. The SÜDSTEIERMARKDAC winegrowing areas of the Steiermark are Gamlitz, Ratsch, Berghausen, Spielfeld, AREA UNDER VINES located in the east and south of the state, Leutschach, Sausal: Kitzeck, Sankt Nikolai where the Central Eastern Alps descend towards the Styrian Basin and dive under- DAC 4,633 hectares in the southern, south­ VULKANLAND STEIERMARK © Flora P. neath it. The Styrian Basin then moves to western, southeastern and also the north- Hartberg, Fürstenfeld, Kapfenstein, the east and southeast, towards Hungary, in eastern parts of the Steiermark. The fed- Sankt Anna am Aigen, Klöch, Straden, turn back into the great Pannonian Basin. eral state has about ten per cent of the total Bad Gleichenberg vineyard area in Austria and about seven DAC per cent of the Austrian wine market. Over SOIL STRUCTURES WESTSTEIERMARK half of the vineyard area is mountain viti- Stainz, Sankt Stefan ob Stainz, culture. Deutschlandsberg Essentially, there are six types of soil, also occurring in various hybrid forms. DAC REGIONS WITH THEIR PARTICULAR ORTSWEIN DISTRICTS SLATE, SCHIST & GNEISS CHARACTERISTICS Weathered solid rock

SÜDSTEIERMARKDAC 2,563 ha The winegrowing regions of the Steiermark VOLCANIC STONE (TUFF, BASALT) are known for: Gamlitz 693 ha Weathered solid rock Very low crop yields compared to other re- Leutschach 631 ha gions (around 4,650 litres/hectare). Slopes Ehrenhausen 426 ha LIMESTONE with occasionally extreme inclines and Kitzeck-Sausal 419 ha Fossil-rich marine deposits and reef lime- demanding conditions for cultivation. Pro- Eichberg 355 ha stones (Leithakalk & Korallenkalk) tection of varieties and their typicity for al- most 200 years. A few of the best Sauvignon OPOK Blancs in the world. Chardonnay is called Limestone marl (Styrian Schlier): hard- Morillon here.The only rosé wine region in VULKANLAND ened, formerly muddy, mostly calcareous Central Europe (Schilcherland). Harvesting STEIERMARKDAC 1,524 ha marine and lake deposits by hand is mandatory in the DAC regions. Oststeiermark 325 ha Known for young, fresh, fruity and sensuous GRAVEL & SAND Riegersburg 298 ha regional wines, for Ortswein with impressive Coarse grained, partly loose, partly solidi- Klöch 179 ha terroir and for single vineyard wines (Ried- fied river deposits Straden 166 ha enwein) with power, structure & unmistak- Sankt Anna 140 ha able distinctiveness. Self-confident wine- VOICES OF THE PRESS SAND/SANDSTONE Sankt Peter 125 ha growers who bring together experimentation Loose sand or solidified as sandstone, Tieschen 97 ha & tradition and make it into a living modern often containing quartz Gleichenberg 90 ha culture. A state in which some of the best vins ‘The Steiermark is a small but very fashionable wine- ‘The Steiermark is replete with expressive examples of Kapfenstein 73 ha naturels in the world are produced. Impres- sive agricultural landscape. One of the most growing region in the far southeast of Austria and has distinct differences between wines that differ signifi- GRAPE VARIETIES beautiful wine regions in the world. Culinary achieved considerable fame with its aromatic, lively, dry cantly only in site, many of which may depend on the DAC standards among the world’s finest. WESTSTEIERMARK 546 ha The most important grape varieties wh ite w i nes’. consistency and rock or clay content of their soils’. Stainz 196 ha by region: Jancis Robinson MW, wine journalist, Financial Times & The Oxford Com- David Schildknecht, Wine & Spirits, The World of Fine Wine Eibiswald 155 ha panion to Wine Deutschlandsberg 124 ha SÜDSTEIERMARKDAC SIZE OF THE PRODUCERS ‘Some of the world’s best Sauvignon Blancs are produced Ligist 50 ha Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, DAC ‘Viticulturally, the Styrian landscape is a reincarnation in the Südsteiermark (...)while the Weissburgunder, Weissburgunder, Muskateller, Morillon; SÜDSTEIERMARK of Greater Steiermark’s powerful 19th century persona: Chardonnay (Morillon) and even Riesling (from the slate Kitzeck-Sausal: Riesling 623 estates that cultivate 2,563 hectares; 4.11 ha/estate an engine of innovation and a cradle of vinous diversity’. soils of the Kitzeck-Sausal district) still do not have the VULKANLAND STEIERMARKDAC David Schildknecht, Wine & Spirits, The World of Fine Wine reputation they deserve’. VULKANLAND STEIERMARKDAC Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, 1,199 estates that cultivate Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate Sauvignon Blanc, Zweigelt, Traminer 1.524 hectares; 1.27 ha/estate ‘The DAC regulation of the Steiermark is the most compre- hensive in all of Austria. DAC is not only understood as a ‘Anyone who has ever drunk Styrian wine will never give WESTSTEIERMARKDAC WESTSTEIERMARKDAC label here, but is a clear designation of origin’. it up again’. Blauer Wildbacher, Weissburgunder, 261 estates that cultivate Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling 546 hectares 2.09 ha/estate Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate Alexander Rabl, freelance author on the topics of restaurants, food and wine

60 Facts & figures Voices of the press 61 REFERENCES

Many thanks to geologist Dr Maria Heinrich, the soil specialist Dr Alois Bernhart, the Steiermark’s state director of viticulture Werner Luttenberger, the Steiermark Chamber of Agriculture, Gerhard Retter and the innumerable Styrian winegrowers for their numerous interesting stories about the region and its terroir.

Additional sources of reference, Lantschbauer, Rudolf; Barwirsch, Steirische Buschenschenken: assistance & advice: Sepp L.: Sauvignon Blanc - Steiermark und Vinotheken & Weinbauern. M/N der Rest der Weinwelt; Vinothek Verlag Medienverlag (2008) Bernhart, Alois; Luttenberger, Werner: Steurer, Rudolf; Siegl, Viktor: Wein und Boden – Der Einfluss des Bodens Lexe, Peter; Just, Peter: Köstliche Wege Österreichischer Weinführer; Ueberreuter auf die Geschmacksvielfalt steirischer von Stainz nach Maribor; Erzherzog- (1996) Weine; Leopold Stocker Verlag (2003) Johann-WeinKulturReise; Verlag Styria (2009) Strallhofer-Hödl, Heidelore: Die Mutter Brook, Stephen: The Wines of Austria; der Weinstraße. Weinbau – Menschen – Infinite Ideas Limited (2016) Maltman, Alex: „Between A Rock and a Buschenschenken in der Südsteiermark; hard place – Vineyard Soils“; The World of Unikum-Verlag (2. Auflage 1998) Egle, Klaus: SSteirisches Weinland – Fine Wine (Issue 45/2014) Entdecken – Erleben – Genießen; Verlag Svec, Isa: Eingeschenkt – Weinland Styria (2003) Maltman, Alex: „Minerality in Wine – Österreich; Österreichischer Agrarverlag / a geological research“; Journal of Wine edition Wein.Pur (2012) Egle, Klaus: Die schönsten Weinreisen research, 24:3 (2013) Österreichs; GourMedia (2015) Trummer, Franz Xaver: Der politische ÖWM: Dokumentation Österreich; Weinbau; Landesarchiv Steiermark (Wien, Flak, Dr. Walter: „Kann man Herkunft Weingartenflächen und Flächenanteile der 1845) schmecken?“; Der Winzer (1. April 2011) Rebsorten (2016) Trummer, Franz Xaver: Classification Flak, Dr. Walter, u.a.: „Einfluss ÖWM: Schulungsunterlagen (2018) & Beschreibung der im Herzogthum / Knappenhof© Flora P. verschiedener Ausgangsgesteine auf das Steiermark vorkommenden Rebsorten; Geschmacksprofil von Wein“; Der Winzer Prettenthaler, Franz; Formayer, Landesarchiv Steiermark (Wien, 1841) (7. März 2014) Herbert / Johanneum Research For the resident alpacas at the Knappenhof, the grass between the vines tastes better than the grapes. Forschungsgesellschaft: Studien zum Trumler, Gerhard; Wagner, Christoph: And they probably won’t have an opportunity to taste the wines … Goethe, Herrmann: Ampelographie; Klimawandel in Österreich Band IX - Erste Weinlandschaften in Österreich; Pichler Landesarchiv Steiermark (1878) Analysen aus Österreich und führenden Verlag (1999) internationalen Weinanbaugebieten; Goethe, Herrmann: Ampelographie; Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Weirather, Peter: Weinmagazin Landesarchiv Steiermark Wissenschaften Wien (2013) Steiermark; Wein Steiermark (2016) (1878; 2. Auflage) Robinson, Jancis: Das Oxford Wilson, James E.: Terroir, Schlüssel zum Goode, Jamie; Harrop, Sam: „Authentic Weinlexikon, München, Gräfe & Unzer Wein, Hallwag, Bern und Stuttgart (1999) Wine“, University of California Press, Verlag (2007) Berkeley (2011) White, Robert E.: Understanding Vineyard Robinson, Jancis; Johnson, Hugh: World Soils, Oxford University Press (2015) Goode, Jamie: „The Science of Wine Atlas of Wine. 7th edition. - From Vine to Glas“, University of London: Octopus Publishing (2013) Wohlfahrt, Josef: Weinbau Hamerlinggasse 3 California Press, Berkeley (2015) Dokumentation – Der Österreichische 8010 Graz Rupperti, Evelyn: Von Klapotetz und Weinbau 1950 – 2015; Rötzer Druck (2016) Österreich / Austria Heinrich, Dr. Maria / Geologin i. R. Sauvignon – Genussgeschichten aus der (früher Geologische Bundesanstalt FA Südsteiermark; Styria regional (2011) Wolf, Gery: Das Steirische Weinland; Rohstoffgeologie): Verlag Styria (2001) T +43 316 80 50 14 35 Interview (Oktober-November 2018) Schwarzkogler, Ileane; Vetter, F +43 316 80 50 19 97 Harald: Weinkultur. Kulturreferat der Wolf, Gery: Impressionen aus dem Hoppmann, Dieter: Terroir – Wetter – Steiermärkischen Landesregierung (1990) Steirische Weinland; AVEDA (2010) Klima – Boden; Ulmer Verlag (2010) [email protected] Statistik Austria: „Der Grüne Bericht“ MAP MATERIAL: www.steiermark.wine Kandutsch, Florian: „Die südsteirische (2018) (Bioweinbau) Weinlandschaft als Vorbild für einen www.oesterreichwein.at zukünftigen slowenischen Weirather, Peter: Weinmagazin Cover photograph Mapping: Werbeagentur geografik, Graz, Weintourismus“. Master Thesis, Steiermark; Wein Steiermark (2016) Anna Stöcher Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz, 2016. 18-102, 02 19, Topografische Grundlagen: © BEV, KM250R 28.02.19. Steinbauer, Maria: Der Schilcher und sein Responsible for content of the maps: Wein Katschner, Engelbert: Der Steirische Land – Weingenuss auf Steirisch; Verlag Concept, design & execution Steiermark, Graz Wein; Leykam (1998) Styria (2011) Wineadventures.de

62 References Contact 63 64 From the hills, with hand & heart