Botanics in a Bottle

Insider THIRST QUENCHER Botanics in a bottle Propelled by dynamic craft spirit makers and cutting-edge mixologists, the Australian gin scene is growing up AUSTRALIA IS IN THE MIDDLE of a gin renaissance. Driven by distilleries, boutique bars and mastermind mixologists, we are becoming more “gintrified” than ever. Our consumption of juniper juice is booming and our craft distilleries are collecting prestigious international awards. Te secret, it seems, is the Indigenous ingredients being used – native myrtle, Tasmanian pepperberry, finger limes and wattle seed – wielded with wizardry in sheds and wineries across the country. Andrew Marks of the Melbourne Gin Company makes gin at his parent’s winery, Gembrook Hill “Tere’s a strong appetite for ‘local’ Four Pillars’ Cameron McKenzie, Vineyard, in the Yarra Valley, 50 in a lot of facets of people’s lives; a winemaker, and others such as minutes from Melbourne. He takes a they’re trying to support farming and Sacha La Forgia of 78 Degrees in winemaking approach, distilling all producers and this is just another the Adelaide Hills have been drawn 11 botanicals separately – including avenue to do so,” says Andrew. to the craft by the opportunity to local grapefruit peel, macadamias Te West Winds Gin from Western experiment with botanicals and and sandalwood – to better gauge Australia and Victorian-based Four flavour. the effect each has on the finished Pillars have put Australian gin on Oddly though, the story of product. Tey’re then blended and the map. Four Pillars, also based in Australia’s craft gin craze actually cut back with filtered rainwater the Yarra Valley, scooped the San begins with whisky. Up until recently, collected from the roof of the Francisco World Spirits Competition small-scale distilling was illegal property. last year, winning double gold under the Distillation Act of 1901. “Tere’s no book on how to make medals for its gin, which uses native But Tasmanian Bill Lark was eager to gin so, for me, it was a journey of Australian botanical ingredients take advantage of the state’s pristine discovery; a journey into alchemy and is distilled using a German- water, cool climate and barley fields, learning the botanicals,” he says. made custom copper pot and still. so he approached his local Member 16 Jetstar.com WORDS 62),$/(9,1šPHOTOS FOUR PILLARS, WEST WINDS GIN, THE MELBOURNE GIN COMPANY GIN CITY Main and right: Four Pillars, the art of making gin. Below; The West Winds Gin’s copper still modern era, a new wave of gin that would become defined by “Tere’s no book the Australian botanicals used in the distilling process. on how to make Caroline Childerley, gin so, for me, founder of Australia’s most it was a journey popular gin blog, Te Gin Queen, also believes that of discovery; the international accolades a journey into are linked to the Indigenous ingredients used. “Most of alchemy learning the producers are looking the botanicals.” to native botanicals such as lemon myrtle and finger limes, so they’re of Parliament, who called the then- not just producing an Australian small business minister in Canberra. gin, they’re producing a gin that Hobart’s Lark Distillery opened in has ‘Australianness’ to it,” she says. 1992 on the first license issued to Childerley also credits boutique distil spirits in Tasmania since 1839. bars for spreading the word about Bill became known as “the godfather Australian gin, with mixologists of Australian whisky”. educating customers on what’s But behind every good godfather available and how it’s made. is a great godmother. “I feel like a bit Shaun Byrne, who managed of a fraud,” says Bill. “My wife Lyn Melbourne’s Gin Palace for eight was the one responsible for our gin.” years before becoming a gin Lyn began distilling botanicals when consultant to other bars and Lark Distillery first opened, resulting producers, and co-founding Maidenii in their world-famous Godfather Vermouth, agrees that bartenders’ Pepperberry Gin. Teir initial batch, use of gin has increased the drink’s released in 1996, was the first of the reach. “It’s one of the most Jetstar.com 17 Insider THIRST QUENCHER SCHOOLED Bass and Flinders’ Victorian master- TRY IT class teaches the curious the art of HERE gin making VIC Four Pillars Distillery Tour the facilities, then head to the bar at this destination distillery. 2a Lilydale Road, Healesville +61 (0) 3 5962 2791 fourpillarsgin.com.au QLD Dutch Courage Officers’ Mess An easy-to-follow gin menu and 110 labels to work through. 51 Alfred Street, Fortitude Valley +61 (0)7 3852 4838 dutchcourage.com.au versatile spirits. Tat’s what campaign to get Poor Toms Gin NSW bartenders want to use and drink, so off the ground in Sydney. Inspired Te Barber Shop that’s what the customers are going by the success of Four Pillar’s The only place where you can sip to start drinking. Tere’s usually a campaign two years ago, they vintage gin after a cut-throat shave. two- or three-year lag. Negronis are pledged $20,000 to produce their 89 York Street, Sydney the perfect example; it’s the drink of first batch. When the campaign +61 (0)2 9299 9699 choice this year for sure,” he says. finished in mid July, they were just thisisthebarbershop.com Support has come via crowd- shy of $70,000. “It proved that a funding campaigns that have kick- lot of people are really keen to try Te Powder Keg Creative gin-inspired desserts and gin started local gin companies. Griffin new gins and are excited about the high tea (from late October). Blumer and Tomas Kennedy took sophisticated and diverse distilling 7 Kellett Street, Potts Point a native botanical leaf out of Four scene in Australia,” says Griffin. +61 (0)2 8354 0980 Pillars’ book and launched a Pozible He’s right. Small-batch gin thepowderkeg.com.au companies are even opening distillery doors to offer imaginative NZ gin experiences for visitors C.G.R Merchant & Co. keen to learn the craft. Bass & Gin infused with wacky, Flinders on Victoria’s Mornington seasonal ingredients. Peninsula, Kangaroo Island Spirits 46 Courtenay Place, Te Aro in South Australia, McHenry & +64 (0)4 384 6737 facebook.com/CGRMerchants Sons in Tasmania and Sydney’s Archie Rose all offer hands-on gin masterclasses. It’s just one way that people are choosing to explore juniper juice. Did you know? “People want to know the story Thirsty Australians guzzled behind how something is made and almost twice the amount of gin I think craft gin offers that,” says in 2013 compared with 2009. Griffin. “Craft isn’t just a method of Source: Roy Morgan Research. production – it’s an attitude.” 18 Jetstar.com PHOTOS BASS AND FLINDERS MASTERCLASS .

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