By Amy Goodpaster Strebe
Russian America San Francisco Ever since the late 18th-century, when Russian fur trappers from Alaska first hunted along North America’s Pacific coast, there has been a Russian presence in Northern California. From the first Russian settlement at Fort Ross in 1812, through large-scale immigration during the Soviet period, Russians have made ittingly, the history of Russians in Petersburg on September 14. While jour- San Francisco begins with a love their influence felt in Northern neying through the wintry Siberian story. On April 5, 1806, Count Nikolai California, and particularly the expanses, however Rezanov was stricken Petrovich Rezanov, a Russian nobleman by a ferocious fever and died in San Francisco Bay Area. Fand representative of the Russian- Krasnoyarsk on March 1, 1807. American Company, sailed his ship, the The likelihood, if not all hope, for the Juno, into San Francisco Bay. California extension of Russian sovereignty on the was at that time a Spanish colony, Alaska exchanged pledges. Rezanov wrote of American continent died with Rezanov. a Russian dominion. Rezanov was desper- Concha in his report: Sixty years later, Alaska was sold to the ate to get relief supplies for the starving United States. The projected treaty with Russian colony at Sitka, Alaska. He met “Associating daily with and paying my Spain was never signed, and Rezanov with the commandante of the Presidio, addresses to the beautiful Spanish señorita, himself was largely forgotten by history. Don Jose Dario Arguello, and the colony’s I could not fail to perceive her active, ven- But what of his beloved “Conchita”? governor, Don Jose Arrillaga. They were ture-some disposition and character … dis- Her betrothed having failed to return, skeptical and curious about the Russian, satisfied with the land of her birth, she Concha entered the Dominican Sister- yet decided to help him. Rezanov, for his always referred to it jokingly as a beautiful hood, and spent the rest of her life as a part, hoped to build better ties and to country, warm climate, an abundance of teacher in St. Catherine’s Seminary, the COURTESY RUSSIAN-AMERICAN CENTER ARTTODAY. RIGHT: LEFT: secure a treaty with the local Spanish gov- grain and cattle—and nothing else. I first convent school in California. ernment for regular provisioning of the described Russia to her as a colder country, Russian outpost. but still abounding in everything and she IN THE FAMOUS CITY BY THE BAY, THE Through Arguello, Rezanov, a 42-year- was willing to live there … when I proffered Russian community is visibly concentrat- old widower, met and began courting my hand, she accepted.” ed in the outer Richmond District. This Arguello’s 16-year-old daughter, peaceful patch of pastel-colored apart- Concepcion, or “Concha” as she was Rezanov departed from San Francisco ments and quiet avenues is situated called. After several dances at the Presidio on May 21, 1806. After replenishing the between two of San Francisco’s best- and many talks together, the dashing settlement at Sitka, he sailed on to known landmarks—Golden Gate Park count and the young Spanish girl Kamchatka, proceeding on to St. and the Golden Gate Bridge. Strolling
56 • Russian Life down Geary Boulevard, the main artery of the bustling neighborhood, one Going Russian in the City by the Bay instantly notices the Cyrillic lettering on the windows of Russian shops and restau- rants, and feels transformed to another DELIS, BAKERIES place. & MARKETS Proceeding down Geary between Cinderella Bakery, 436 14th and 26th avenues, one comes across Balboa St. Phone: 415-751- a myriad of Russian delis, food markets, 9690 gift stores, restaurants, and bakeries. A The Tiptoe Delicatessen, typical Russian business is the Moscow 5423 Geary Blvd. & Tbilisi Bakery on Geary Boulevard Gastronom, 5801 Geary and 20th Avenue. Attracted by Russian Blvd. Phone: 415-387-4211 delicacies like pirozhki, bliny and Gastronom Sunset, 2801 Georgian khachapuri, as well as cakes, Judah St. Phone: 415-664- cookies and sweets with names like tri- 1835 Above: The Holy Virgin Cathedral on Geary Boulevard, as bochka, lamur, tbilisi and srekrobovino, New World Market, 5641 seen from the air, its golden cupolas standing in stark Russians and non-Russians alike can Geary Blvd. & 22nd St. contrast to the surrounding neighborhood. Opposite page: Phone: 415-751-8810 The Vodka Tasting Bar at the Annual Russian Festival, which often be found standing outside in the draws over 3,000 expatriate Russians and Russophiles to early morning hours, waiting in antici- Odessa Russian the district. pation for the bakery, with its inviting Delicatessen, 5427 Geary aromas, to open for business. Blvd. Phone: 415-387-8314 BOOKSTORES GIFT STORES Moscow & Tbilisi Bakery, There is no shortage of Russian food in Znanie, 4720 Geary Blvd. Babushka Perestroika 5540 Geary Blvd. Phone: San Francisco. In the neighborhoods sur- Near 17th Ave. Phone: 415- Store, Pier 39, P214A. 415-668-6959 rounding the Richmond District, there 752-7555 Phone: 415-788-7043 Europa Express, also sells are plenty of Russian restaurants to Globus Slavic Bookstore, Russian Treasure, 2801 Russian music, literature and choose from. From Russian Renaissance, 332 Balboa St. Phone: 415- Leavenworth St. Phone: 415- postcards, 750 La Playa St. with its fanciful murals on the ceilings 668-4723 346-1104 Phone: 415-751-1551 painted by local artist Sergei Smirnoff, Arlekin, also sells Russian Regina, 5845 Geary Blvd. European Food and walls featuring dressed-up dolls and CDs, videos, audio tapes, & 23rd Ave. Ph: 415-386-8577 Wholesale, 3038 Clement St. 5909 Geary Blvd. Phone: Russian chochkes, its décor is a stark con- Phone: 415-750-0504 415-751-2320 CHURCHES trast to the simplicity of Katia’s Russian Quality Market, 1342 Holy Virgin Cathedral, Tea Room on 5th Avenue at Balboa Street, Irving St. Phone: 415-759- RUSSIAN LANGUAGE 6210 Geary Blvd. Phone: which comes recommended by many 6500 Russian-Americans in the area for its cre- NEWSPAPERS 415-221-3255 Russkaya Zhizn, at San St. Nicholas Cathedral, ative and Russian-inspired menu (see RESTAURANTS Francisco Russian Center, 2005 15th St. at Church St. Russian Cuisine, page 54). Mad Magda’s Russian Tea 2450 Sutter St. Phone: 415- Phone: 415-621-1849 Across the street from Katia’s is the Room, 579 Hayes St. Phone: 921-5380 Holy Trinity Cathedral, Globus Slavic Bookstore, and located not 415-864-7654 New Life, at Jewish 1520 Green St. at Van Ness. far away on Geary Boulevard near 17th Russian Renaissance, Community Center of San Phone: 415-673-8565 Avenue is Znanie, the best-known of the 5241 Geary Blvd. Phone: Francisco, 3200 California St. 415-752-8558 city’s Russian-language bookstores. Phone: 415-346-6040. MISCELLANEOUS Katia’s Russian Tea Opened in 1958, Znanie carries a large San Francisco Russian Room, 600 5th Ave. Phone: selection of Russian authors, children’s ART GALLERIES Center, Museum of Russian 415-668-9292 books and sheet music, as well as gifts and Turov Ceramic Gallery, Culture, 2450 Sutter St. Russia House souvenirs from Russia. 3654 Sacramento St. Phone: Phone: 415-921-7631 Restaurant/Nightclub/Bar, San Francisco has several Russian gift 415-474-9999 Museum of the Society of open Fri/Sat for dinner only stores peppered throughout the city, Light Opera Gallery, 460 Russian Veterans of WWI: 2011 Bayshore Blvd. Phone: like Babushka Perestroika at Pier 39, Post St. Phone: 415-956- Sviatoslav Zabelin, “Sven” at. 415-330-9991 near Fisherman’s Wharf, and Russian 9866. Phone: 415-386-8463 Traktir Restaurant, 4036 Treasure, also located at the Wharf on Sokoloff Art & Framing Slavyanka Men’s Russian Balboa St. Phone: 415-386- Leavenworth Street. Russian Treasure Company, 150 San Marcos Chorus, 9 Tioga Ave. Phone: 9800 features matryoshka dolls, lacquer Ave. Phone: 415-566-8177 650-365-1363. Russian Bear Restaurant, Consulate General of the boxes, Baltic amber, books, religious 939 Clement St. Phone: 415- Russian Federation, 2790 designs, chess sets and painted eggs. 752-8197 Downtown, on Post Street (between Green St. Ph: 415-929-1035 Powell and Mason streets), the discrim- GARY L. STREBE
MARCH/APRIL 2002 • 57 Russian America inating Russian art collector can find a Church, which has 20 churches in the Bay in 1909—the original church having been large selection of lacquer boxes and Area. In the heart of the Richmond destroyed by the earthquake of 1906. miniatures from Russia at the Light District, the imposing, Byzantine-style Holy Trinity features seven bells in its Opera Gallery. The store’s owner, Eric Holy Virgin Cathedral is a notable land- belfry, five of which were gifts from Tsar Sinizer, is a noted expert on the minia- mark, with its five onion-shaped domes Alexander III in thanksgiving for the tures. On an average day, more than 500 covered in 24-karat gold. Over the door, emperor’s and the Imperial family’s res- Russian lacquered boxes can be found the mosaic tympanum represents the cue following a train accident near the on display here. Virgin Mary floating on a background of town of Borki, Ukraine on October 17, According to the Consulate General of tiles, also covered in pure gold leaf. Inside 1888. Another unique feature of the the Russian Federation, headquartered the cathedral is the resting place of St. cathedral is a grand chandelier donated on Green Street, the San Francisco Bay John Maximovich, archbishop of San by the last tsar of Russia, Nicholas II. Area counts approximately 200,000 Francisco, who died in 1966. Miracles According to tradition, the Emperor also Russian “compatriots.”“As a very friend- were attributed to St. John before his donated a richly-decorated icon of his ly and multi-ethnic city, San Francisco death, and in 1994 it was found that his patron saint—Nicholas of Myra and historically was the first in which body had not decomposed. Today, parish- Lycia—to the church. Holy Trinity is also Russians settled,” said Consul General ioners often pray at St. John’s coffin for his in possession of the vestments of St. Yuri V. Popov. “Nowadays, it has a lot of intercession. Tikhon, Patriarch of Russia and competitors—other California cities that Holy Trinity Cathedral,located at 1520 Confessor. The saint’s prayer book, com- have big Russian communities—Los Green St., traces its history back to memoration booklet, hierarchical liturgi-
Angeles, San Diego, Sacramento, San December 2, 1857, when the first con, and monastic belt are carefully pre- Jose and Santa Clara. Orthodox Society was founded in San served in the cathedral’s safe. “The uniqueness of the Russian com- Francisco. Holy Trinity is the only Eastern A third Russian Orthodox cathedral of munity in California is that we can witness Orthodox Church in the city which con- significance in the city is St. Nicholas it in all spheres: politics, business, science, ducts services in English (with some Cathedral, on 15th Street. The parish of culture, etc. You can feel Russian heritage Slavonic). The oldest Orthodox cathedral the Russian Orthodox Church of the everywhere from Fort Ross, to Silicon community in the contiguous United Moscow Patriarchate in San Francisco was Valley, down to Hollywood,” Popov said. States, the present building was dedicated founded in 1935. In 1993, the Patriarch of Popov said there have been three Moscow and all of Russia, Alexei II, car- “waves” of Russians emigrating to the ried out a service in the church. St. United States:“the first one was before and Nicholas has also acquired from Russia after the October Revolution in 1917. It is large icons of the royal martyrs, Tsar CENTER (SIGNS) AND LEFT, AMY GOODPASTER STREBE. PHOTOS: also called the ‘white’ immigration, many Nicholas II, Tsarina Alexandra and their representatives of which are known in five children, which are displayed in the California as people from Harbin (China). cathedral. The second one came after the end of In addition to the Church, the nucle- World War II, and the third one left the us of the Russian community in San USSR in the 1960s and 1970s up to now, Francisco is the Russian Center (pic- and is the most numerous one.” tured at left), located at 2450 Sutter St. One of the most unifying institutions Founded in 1939 by Russian immi- of the Russian community in San grants as a focal point for the preserva- Francisco is the Russian Orthodox tion of their rich cultural heritage, the
58 • Russian Life non-profit organization produces area who don’t read or understand many cultural activities, including English.“For some,”he said,“it is the only operas, dance concerts, folk dance way they get the news and hear about classes, social gatherings like the upcoming events.” “Vecherinka,”held on the first Friday of Avisov is also president of the Congress every month, and lectures. The center of Russian-Americans, located on the also holds an annual Russian Festival third floor of the center. Founded in 1973, each February, a three-day extravagan- the Congress is a national organization za of food, art, music and dance. The with chapters in all major U.S. cities. Its event attracts over 3,000 people from members are U.S. citizens of Russian all over the San Francisco Bay Area. The descent who are non-Communist in their Russian Center is also home to beliefs. “One of the goals of the organiza- “Teremok,” a state-certified Russian tion, Avisov said, “is to preserve our pre-school, Neva Russian Dance Russian spiritual and cultural heritage in Ensemble, the Congress of Russian- GARY L. STREBE the United States.” Americans, a Museum of Russian Russian-born Avisov, who came to the Culture, Russkaya Zhizn newspaper, Russian-American Cultural Foundation, Bay Area in the early 1950s after serving in and an archival library that includes deputy director of the Foster Family a forced labor camp in Germany during approximately 15,000 books published Program for Congress of Russian- World War II, said Russians feel a connec-
Strolling down Geary Boulevard, the main artery of San Francisco’s bustling Russian neighborhood, one instantly notices the Cyrillic lettering on the windows of Russian shops and restaurants, and feels transformed to another place. Above: Mstislav Ivanitsky is a volunteer at the Museum of Russian Culture. Below left: The San Francisco Russian Center and Museum of Russian Culture.
in pre-revolutionary Russia and by Americans, and an active member and tion with Northern California.“We were a Russian immigrants, mostly in Russian. soloist of the choir at the Holy Virgin part of Alaska and Northern California “The Russian Center brings everyone Cathedral. According to Sabelnik, it is not before this country was established,” he in the community together,” said Natalie difficult to understand why so many said. “We feel that we belong here. Sabelnik, manager of the center. “Our Russians are attracted to living in the city Russians have a long tradition of bringing monthly ‘Vecherinkas’ attract the young by the Golden Gate. their culture to the United States.” and the old, and those who just enjoy “San Francisco is a beautiful city, and Also located on the third floor of the being with Russian-speaking people.” it is conducive to many different types of Russian Center is the Museum of Sabelink, who was born in Shanghai, people,” she said. “If you’re from anoth- Russian Culture,open free to the public China to Russian parents, came to San er country, you don’t stick out like a sore every Wednesday and Saturday from Francisco when she was 3-years-old, after thumb. Russians don’t have to suffer 10:30 AM to 2:30 PM. Established in 1948, living in a displaced person’s camp in the nostalgia when they come here, because one of the museum’s goals is to promote Philippines for two years. It was there that they can shop in Russian stores, read Russian culture among Americans of she met Archbishop John, who later was Russian newspapers, and eat at Russian Russian descent, Americans interested in canonized St. John Maximovich, and restaurants.” Russian history, and the general public. whose relics lay in the Holy Virgin George Avisov is the editor of Russkaya The intimate museum features all types Cathedral. “Archbishop John had a Zhizn,a weekly Russian-language news- of materials, including memoirs and per- church there where we were living, and I paper that has over 1,000 subscribers. sonal papers of prominent émigrés, gov- am told that he came to see me when I Founded in 1921, it began operating from ernmental, public and private archives was born,” she said. the Russian Center in 1941. According to and libraries, and photographs, paint- Besides running the Russian Center, Avisov, the newspaper is particularly ings, sculptures, medals, and artifacts Sabelnik is also executive director of the important for Russian immigrants in the pertaining to life in Russia before the
MARCH/APRIL 2002 • 59 Russian America One of the most unifying institutions of the Russian community in San Francisco is the Russian Orthodox Church, which has 20 churches in the Bay Area. Left, Holy Trinity Cathedral. Below: Holy Virgin Cathedral.
revolution. Staffed entirely by volunteers, population has settled into the Richmond new arrivals adjust to life here. “San the museum’s curator is Alex Karamzin, District and other parts of the Bay Area, Francisco has a nice climate, and the son of the Russian artist Alexander including Silicon Valley, where many Russian community has existed here for a Karamzin, whose paintings adorn a wall work in the field of computer technology. long time,” she said. “Today Jews who of the museum, and great-great-great New Life,a Russian-language newspaper come here from Russia are helped by grandson of the famous historian and operated by the Jewish Community Jewish Family Services, which has a huge writer Nikolai M. Karamzin (1766- Center of San Francisco on California émigré department. Russians can get help 1826). Next door to the museum is the Street, publishes a 40-page monthly with their English, get vocational training Russian Library,which boasts thousands tabloid devoted to Jewish immigrants and medical assistance, as well as counsel- of books, including over 500 old and new from the former Soviet Union. According ing, if they need it.” titles of children’s literature (contact to the center, since 1979-80 over 40,000 For almost 200 years, Russians have phone number: 415-921-4912). Russian-speaking Jews have relocated to made a home for themselves in San the Bay Area. In San Francisco, one-third Francisco, contributing their rich cultural ONE OF THE MOST PROMINENT CHARACTER- of the Jewish population is reported to be heritage to the diverse patchwork that istics of the Russian community in San either émigré or the children of émigrés. makes the City by the Bay so inviting to Francisco is its diversity. Although the Tatiana Menaker, a staff writer for New visitors and locals alike. As a result, “white” Russians who came here follow- Life, came to San Francisco in 1987 from whether you seek a copy of Dostoevsky’s ing the October Revolution of 1917-1918 St. Petersburg (then Leningrad). A profes- Crime and Punishment in Russian, fresh- account for the oldest and most signifi- sional tour guide and journalist, Menaker ly-made pirozhki,or a rare Russian lac- cant wave of immigration into the city, was also a former classmate of President quered miniature, San Francisco offers more recently a Jewish Russian-speaking Vladimir Putin.“He was two years behind each in abundance—you only need to me at school in Leningrad,” she said. “We know where to look. RL also went to the same university, where he was in the law department, and I was in the philosophy department. He was edu- Amy Goodpaster Strebe is a journalist cated by very good teachers,” Menaker working for the Mountain View Voice said. “I know, because I had them too.” newspaper and a graduate student in Menaker said San Francisco is particu- Modern European History at San Jose larly attractive to Russians immigrating to State University. This is her first article for this country, because a well-established Russian Life. Russian community already exists to help AMY GOODPASTER STREBE. PHOTOS:
Attracted by Russian delicacies like pirozhki, bliny and Georgian khachapuri, as well as cakes, cook- ies and sweets with names like tribochka, lamur, tbilisi and srekrobovino, Russians and non-Russians alike can often be found standing outside The Moscow and Tbilisi Bakery (left) in the early morning hours, waiting in anticipation for the bakery, with its inviting aromas, to open for business.
60 • Russian Life