YOUR O.A.T. ADVENTURE TRAVEL PLANNING GUIDE®

New! Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, Norway & the Arctic Circle

2021

Small Groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! (average of 13) Overseas Adventure Travel ® The Leader in Personalized Small Group Adventures on the Road Less Traveled 1 Dear Traveler,

At last, the world is opening up again for curious travel lovers like you and me. And the O.A.T. New! Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, Norway & the Arctic Circle itinerary you’ve expressed interest in will be a wonderful way to resume the discoveries that bring us so much joy. You might soon be enjoying standout moments like these:

There was something intangibly magical about Lapland. Maybe it was the midnight sun, the endless rugged tundra, or the welcoming nature of the Sami people. All I know is that there was a true sense of Arctic magic everywhere I went, especially when I met an indigenous Sami family on their reindeer farm. As we explored the farm, they introduced me to their way of life and traditions dating back thousands of years. I was saddened to hear that their ancient culture is under threat from two forces: the construction of an Arctic Railway through Sami territory and Sami youth deviating from their traditional lifestyle. You’ll hear about these challenges as well when you meet with a Sami family on their reindeer farm.

In the regions I travel to around the world, the stories of the people who live and work there are the most distinct and poignant experiences. You’ll meet with a local educator in Oslo to hear about July 22, 2011—the harrowing terrorist attack on this city—and their personal account of this day. We’ll also delve into the opposing attitudes Norwegians hold towards the justice system.

The way we see it, you’ve come a long way to experience the true culture—not some fairytale version of it. So we keep our groups small, with only 8-16 travelers (average 13) to ensure that your encounters with local people are as intimate and authentic as possible. It’s also why your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader will be a resident “insider” who can show you the culture as only a local can.

To ensure that your adventure is truly unique, put your own personal stamp on it. You can arrive early and stay later, add a pre- or post-trip extension, spend time in a Stopover city, or combine two or more trips. Plus, your itinerary offers ample free time so you can pursue your own interests.

So until the day comes when you are off to enjoy your New! Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, Norway & the Arctic Circle adventure, I hope you will relish the fun and anticipation that this O.A.T. Adventure Travel Planning Guide® will inspire. Should you have further questions, feel free to call our Regional Adventure Counselors at 1-800-955-1925.

Love and peace,

Harriet R. Lewis Vice Chairman, Overseas Adventure Travel

P.S. For more inspiration, you can watch videos and slideshows from travelers like you at www.oattravel. com/traveler-moments. You can also share some of your own favorite moments by uploading your travel videos and slideshows directly onto the trip-specific pages of our website.

USA Today “Best Tours” 10Best Readers’ Presented by Choice Awards Solo Traveler

2 CONTENTS

A Letter from Harriet Lewis ...... 2 The O.A.T. Difference...... 4 The Grand Circle Foundation...... 6 The Leader in Solo Travel ...... 7

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN: ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: SAMI LAPLAND, NORWAY & CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE THE ARCTIC CIRCLE During Your Trip ...... 64 Your Adventure at a Glance: Cuisine in Norway ...... 67 Where You’re Going, What it Costs, Baltic Cuisine ...... 69 and What’s Included ...... 8 Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Your Detailed Day-To-Day Itinerary ...... 9 Shipping & More ...... 71 Pre-Trip Extension ...... 25 Post-Trip Extension ...... 36 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY Dates & Prices ...... 40 Finland ...... 74 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 74 ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION Historical Overview of Finland ...... 74 Norway...... 75 Travel Documents & Entry Requirements. . . 41 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 75 No Visas Required ...... 41 Historical Overview of Norway ...... 76 Rigors, Vaccines & General Health ...... 43 Denmark ...... 77 Vaccines Required ...... 44 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 77 Money Matters: Local Currency & Tipping Guidelines ...... 46 Historical Overview of Denmark ...... 78 Estonia ...... 80 Tipping Guidelines...... 48 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 80 Air, Optional Tours & Staying in Touch ..... 50 Estonia: A Short History ...... 80 Optional Tours ...... 51 Latvia ...... 81 Optional Tours: Reserve Before You Go .... 52 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 81 Communicating with Home from Abroad . . 52 Latvia: A Brief History ...... 82 Packing: What to Bring & Luggage Limits . . . 54 Russia ...... 83 Suggested Packing Lists ...... 56 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 83 Electricity Abroad ...... 58 Russia: A Brief History ...... 84 Climate & Average Temperatures ...... 60 RESOURCES: SUGGESTED READINGS & MOVIES Suggested Readings ...... 86 Suggested Movies ...... 90

O.A.T. Health & Safety Measures...... 95 Notes...... 96 Map ...... 99 3 EXPERIENCE THE O.A.T. DIFFERENCE in Scandinavia

This adventure not only showcases iconic sights, but takes you beyond them to experience the culture through unique activities, engagement with the natural world, and authentic encounters with local people. Since our founding in 1978, O.A.T. has become America’s leader in personalized small group journeys on the road less traveled.

SMALL GROUPS: 8-16 TRAVELERS LOCAL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION (AVERAGE OF 13)—GUARANTEED To see the world like the locals, you should The world feels more intimate and engaging travel like one. Our small group size allows when your experience of it is also personal us to take the roads and waterways that are and genuine. That’s why our groups never less traveled, and we often follow them using exceed 16 travelers. This gives you access to the same unique modes of transportation people and places larger groups simply can’t that the locals use—be it a canoe, a camel reach. More authentic interactions. Deeper or a vintage cab. bonds with your travel mates. Personal service from your Trip Experience Leader. Smoother UNIQUE LODGINGS transitions. And a far more satisfying Our lodgings reflect the local character, experience than any traditional tour offers. from smaller family-run hotels and historic manors to comfy inns. Occasionally, larger THE BEST TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS hotels closer to city centers are used. Wherever Your English-speaking, O.A.T. Trip Experience you stay, you’re assured fine comfort and Leader is a resident of the region you are hospitality. visiting, so you will get a true insider’s perspective that brings each place alive— OUR WORLDWIDE OFFICES the stories, food, customs, hidden treasures With 36 regional offices around the world, and more. we are perfectly poised to leverage our local relationships to deliver an excellent experience AUTHENTIC CULTURAL CONNECTIONS and value. During this trip, you’ll be supported Engage with local people through visits to by our team in St. Petersburg, Russia. farms, factories, markets, and artisans’ studios; school visits; Home-Hosted meals; and more.

Hop aboard the vintage Flam Railway in Norway Delve into Sami culture in Lapland

4 THE PILLARS OF DISCOVERY En riching. Inspiring. Unforgettable. These features form the foundation of your Midnight Sun adventure.

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION (GCF) VISIT unrepentant murders, like the one who GCF was established in 1992 to help change committed the terrorist attack. people’s lives in the world where we live, work, A DAY IN THE LIFE and travel. To date, we have pledged or donated Do you ever wonder, “What would it be like $200 million worldwide. to live here?” when you visit new lands? Let’s By investing in the places we explore— find out during your O.A.T. A Day in the Life, including local schools, cooperatives, or arts an exclusive, immersive experience that places centers—we hope to give locals the skills and you in the heart of a community where you’ll confidence they need to become leaders of meet various people where they live, work, their generation and preserve their heritage for and play; visit the neighborhood school; lend many years to come. We’re proud to play a part a hand with daily chores; and break bread with in preserving precious locales like the Bryggen our hosts. waterfront district of Bergen, a living example Perhaps you’ll join a local resident or of the glory days of the Hanseatic League, and community leader for a guided walk through supporting villages like Harmi in Estonia, the town, visit a market, or enjoy a unique whose once-struggling school is now a center opportunity to meet teachers and students of community life. at a local school if school is in session. CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS HOME-HOSTED EXPERIENCES Every culture has its joys and achievements, Stories shared. Differences solved. Taste buds and we celebrate them all. But every place engaged. Good will extended. It’s amazing the also has its challenges, and to gloss over them things that can happen across a kitchen table, would not do justice to those whose stories so we’ll break into groups of 4-5 to join a local need to be told—nor to you, as a traveler who family in their home for a snack or a meal. This deserves more than a sugar-coated version of is a rare opportunity to witness family life, things. So our Trip Experience Leaders will learn local customs, and taste some home- lead frank discussions on controversial issues, cooked fare. and introduce you to people whose stories will expand your understanding. On this adventure, you’ll join a Finnish family for a Home-Hosted Dinner to sample their For example, we’ll visit the July 22nd Center— freshly-prepared cuisine, and learn about daily a memorial commemorating the 2011 terrorist life in rural Lapland. attacks in Oslo. We’ll meet a local educator who lived in Oslo during the attacks, and they will delve into the Controversial Topic of Norwegians’ divided attitudes about how the justice system should have handled

5 GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION Changing people’s lives, one village, one school, one person at a time

GIVING BACK TO THE WORLD WE TRAVEL Dear Traveler, Since our inception in 1992, the Grand Circle In 1992 we established Grand Circle Foundation has pledged or donated more than Foundation, an entity of the Lewis Family $200 million to projects around the world. Foundation, as a means to give back to the world that had already given us so JOIN OUR GENEROUS TRAVELERS much. We’ve pledged or donated more We consider each and every one of our travelers than $200 million worldwide to support to be partners in our worldwide giving. the education of young people and the Some travelers, however, are so inspired by preservation of international treasures the schools and villages they visit, they are and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. compelled to give more. In fact, our travelers have donated more than $1 million in 2019 Of course, none of this would be possible alone. And because we have no administrative without your help. A portion of the costs, 100% of donations are used to help proceeds of every adventure is donated to change people’s lives. Grand Circle Foundation—so just as your life will be enriched by the discoveries BETTER OUR OWN COMMUNITIES— you’ll make on your journey, you’ll also ALL AROUND THE WORLD help to enrich the lives of the people In addition to the destinations where we travel, you’ll meet along the way. we strive to better the communities where Thank you for traveling with us, and for we work—from our headquarters in Boston helping to change people’s lives. to our 36 offices around the world. In Boston, more than 99% of our associates participate Love and peace, in community service each year. Worldwide, nearly all of our offices organize annual

community service events of their own. . Harriet R. Lewis Chair, Grand Circle Foundation How you can help To learn more about ongoing Foundation projects, you can sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, the Inside Scoop, at www.oattravel.com/community/the-inside-scoop. When you do, you’ll not only receive updates on Grand Circle Foundation, but the latest news and discoveries on all things Grand Circle and Overseas Adventure Travel.

www.grandcirclefoundation.org

6 THE LEADER IN SOLO TRAVEL in Scandinavia—and Around the World

ON THIS ADVENTURE …

FREE Single Supplements: We don’t The leader in solo-friendly charge a single supplement on this travel for Americans— adventure and optional trip extensions— by the numbers a savings of $550-$1395 per person compared to other travel companies. More than 50,000 solo travelers But single spaces fill quickly, so early joined us in the past two years—on reservations are advised. their own or with a friend or relative

Travel Solo, But Never Alone: On average, half of your group will also be 15,000 single spaces with a traveling independently, so it’s easier FREE or low-cost Single Supplement to forge special bonds as you experience in 2021—a 76% increase from 2019 unforgettable moments together during your adventure. Plus, your Trip Experience 90% Leader can help connect you with fellow More than of solo women travelers rated their adventure travelers who share your common excellent interests.

You’ll be in good hands, thanks to your 51 exclusive women’s departures dedicated local Trip Experience Leader featured on 25 of our most popular (a resident of Scandinavia), and the adventures—10 of which are expertise of our regional office team in single-only departures St. Petersburg, Russia.

Increased Single Space: In 2021, we have up to 8 single spaces per departure. See available FREE single space at www.oattravel.com/mns2021.

Solo doesn't mean "alone." Three out of eight O.A.T. travelers join our small groups as solos, so you will be in good company.

7 SAVE $500 per person—plus a FULL 10%—on ANY 2021 departure and reserve risk-free New! Under the Midnight Sun:

Sami Lapland, Norway & the Arctic Circle Small Group Adventure Finland:NāķŭĢłĴĢ̇RłÖũĢΆ̵Norway: Svolvaer, Oslo, Flam, Bergen

Countries: 2 | Cities : 6

Small groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! It’s Included (average of 13) • International airfare, airport transfers, • 25 small group activities government taxes, fees, and airline fuel $ Explore in a small group of 8-16 16 days from surcharges unless you choose to make • 6995 travelers (average group size of 13) Includes international airfare your own air arrangements Services of a local O.A.T. Trip $438 All land transportation • Travel from only a day • Experience Leader Accommodations for 14 nights • Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and $ • 15 days from 5895 • 27 meals—14 breakfasts, 6 lunches, luggage porters and 7 dinners (including 1 Home- Without international airfare 5% Frequent Traveler Credit toward Hosted Dinner) • FREE Single Supplement your next adventure

To get a richer view of the Included Features on this adventure, Maximize Your watch our Trip Itinerary video at www.oattravel.com/mns2021 Discoveries & Value

Optional extension s : Baltic Capitals: Riga, Latvia & Tallinn, Estonia 5 nights pre-trip from $1595 Travel from only $319 per night St. Petersburg: Russia’s Imperial Capital 5 nights pre-trip from $1995 Travel from only $399 per night Copenhagen, Denmark 4 nights post-trip from $1995 Travel from only $499 per night

Svolvaer, Lofoten Archipelago, Norway

Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, Norway & the Arctic Circle

8 Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, Norway & the Arctic Circle

YOUR DETAILED ITINERARY

BEGIN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL PRE-TRIP EXTENSION 5 nights in Baltic Capitals: Riga, Latvia & Tallinn, Estonia

Day 1 Depart U.S. Day 5 Riga • Discover Parnu, Estonia • Explore Tallinn • Song Festival Day 2 Arrive Riga, Latvia Grounds visit Day 3 Explore Riga Day 6 Explore Tallinn • Optional Farm visit Day 4 Riga • Latvian politics conversation & Rocca al Mare tour • Explore Rundale Palace Day 7 Tallinn • Estonian independence conversation • Join main trip

OR 5 nights in St. Petersburg: Russia’s Imperial Capital

Day 1 Depart U.S. Day 5 St. Petersburg • Optional Yusupov Palace & River Cruise • Peterhof Palace • Day 2 Arrive St. Petersburg, Russia Home-Hosted Dinner Day 3 Explore St. Petersburg & Day 6 St. Petersburg • Life in Modern Hermitage Museum Russia conversation • Leningrad Siege Day 4 St. Petersburg • Visit communal Museum • Optional Ballet performance or apartment • Fabergé museum • Optional Russian Folk Show Catherine Palace tour Day 7 St. Petersburg • Join main trip

Day 1 Depart U.S.

Afternoon/Evening: Depart today on your flight to Helsinki, Finland. Please refer to your individual air itinerary for exact departure and arrival times.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

9 Day 2 Arrive Helsinki, Finland Then, we explore Helsinki on an included walking tour. We begin at the Esplanadi, a • Destination: Helsinki lovely green space in the heart of the city, • Accommodations: Klaus K Hotel or similar where locals and travelers alike congregate Morning/Afternoon: Arrive in Helsinki where to enjoy the linden tree-lined lanes and an O.A.T. representative will meet you at the colorful flowers. When the weather allows, the airport and assist with your transfer to your Esplanadi is frequented by outdoor musicians, hotel. Here, you’ll meet your Trip Experience lending the park a lively ambiance. Leader, as well as your fellow travelers, Our walk will take us past the Swedish Theater, including those who took our optional pre-trip Finland’s national theater which performs in extensions to Baltic Capitals: Riga, Latvia the Swedish language—which, despite the fact & Tallinn, Estonia or St. Petersburg: Russia’s that it is the main tongue of only 5% of the Imperial Capital. population, is nonetheless the country’s second Later today, you’ll join your Trip Experience official language alongside Finnish. As we Leader for a discovery walk of the neighborhood walk, our Trip Experience Leader will explain surrounding your hotel, including a stop at the this curious phenomenon, which traces its Fazer Café—one of the oldest cafes in Finland, roots to the days when Finland was a territory in operation since 1891. Here, you’ll have a of Sweden, and is the subject of contentious chance to observe daily life in Helsinki as you political debate today. chat with the workers and patrons, and sample Our tour continues up Mannerheim Street, Finnish chocolate and coffee. where we’ll see the city’s Parliament House, Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to whose impressive red granite facade features explore independently or rest after your 14 Corinthian columns, and into the Helsinki international flight, with dinner on your own. Central Railway Station, an ornate Art Nouveau Ask your Trip Experience Leader for restaurant construction featuring a 150-foot clock tower recommendations. and a pair of iconic statues known as the Lantern Carriers flanking the entrance.

Day 3 Explore Helsinki • We then walk toward Senate Square, Suomenlinna fortress where we’ll discover many ornate Empire • Destination: Helsinki Neo-classical buildings, including the • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner 19th-century Lutheran Cathedral, whose • Accommodations: Klaus K Hotel or similar central tower dominates the city. Like Times Square in New York City, this is the place where Breakfast: At the hotel. residents gather to celebrate special occasions, Morning: Join your fellow travelers for a such as New Year’s Eve and Independence Day welcome briefing in the hotel led by your Trip (December 6th). Experience Leader, which will outline what is in We’ll wrap up our tour in Helsinki’s Market store for the next few days on your adventure Square in the city center, a lively area full of and give you the chance to ask questions and go boutique and souvenir shops, vendors selling over any itinerary changes. It will also include fresh produce and traditional Finnish fare, and a short Finnish language lesson to help you colorful stands displaying artisan crafts. Our acclimate to Helsinki.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

10 Trip Experience Leader will introduce us to Day 4 Helsinki • Local farm visit • Visit some of the shopkeepers, for a conversation Porvoo • Finnish education conversation about daily life in the city. • Destination: Helsinki Lunch: On your own—Market Square has many • Included Meals: Breakfast tantalizing choices, and your Trip Experience • Accommodations: Klaus K Hotel or similar Leader will happily recommend an option to Breakfast: At the hotel. suit your preferences. Morning: We begin the day by visiting Afternoon: Hop on a ferry and ride across Norrkulla Gard farm in the countryside outside the water with your Trip Experience Leader of Helsinki. Since 1912, the Lundstrom family for a visit to Suomenlinna: A UNESCO World has owned and operated this farm. Upon Heritage Site. Established in the mid-18th arrival, we’ll meet a few members of the family century as a naval base, this sea fortress is set before they bring our small group on a tour of upon a cluster of six Finnish islands, each of the grounds. Then, we’ll head to the family’s which offers desirable views of the coast and traditional farmhouse, where we’ll engage a rich, historical background. Known as “the in a conversation with our hosts about their Gibraltar of the North,” the fortress includes heritage over tea and snacks. The Lundstrom museums, more than 20 restaurants featuring family is of Swedish descent and has lived in local and international cuisine, a church, and Finland for over four generations. They will views of Helsinki across the sea. Stroll past discuss the challenges Swedes face in Finnish the wooden homes of the highly exclusive society, past and present. community, where residents must be voted in on merit to live. We’ll say goodbye to our hosts and head to Finland’s second-oldest town, Porvoo, After your visit to the fortress, the rest of the established in 1380. Old warehouses dot the afternoon is yours to explore independently. riverside and multi-colored wooden houses You’ll be given a card to use to take full line the quaint, cobbled streets. Your Trip advantage of the city’s public transportation Experience Leader will lead an orientation network, to help you navigate the city. walk to point out places of interest and local Dinner: Join your fellow travelers for an restaurants to try for lunch. included Welcome Dinner at the hotel Lunch: On your own—ask your Trip Experience this evening. Leader for local restaurant recommendations. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Afternoon: Following lunch, we’ll drive back rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps to Helsinki, where the rest of the afternoon is you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in free to do as you please. Your Trip Experience the lounge. Leader can recommend the best ways for you to make use of your public transportation card, and to find an activity that suits your interests.

Perhaps you’ll visit Kiasma at the Finnish National Gallery, to browse the collection of works from more than 8,000 artists. Or, be transported to the 18th century at the

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

11 Seurasaari Open-Air Museum: Perched on Day 5 Helsinki • Transfer to Inari • Visit an island a few miles from the city’s center, local reindeer farm this UNESCO World Heritage site preserves • Destination: Inari the traditional Finnish way of life through the upkeep of almost 90 wooden buildings dating • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner back more than 300 years. • Accommodations: Wilderness Hotel Inari Activity Note: Select departures may fly to Later this afternoon, our small group will be Ivalo in the afternoon instead of the morning, joined by a local teacher for a conversation or feature an afternoon flight to Rovaniemi about education in Finland. The Finnish instead of Ivalo. education system is widely regarded to be one of the finest in the world, with students Breakfast: At the hotel. routinely showing impressive results in literacy, science and math. Our guest will speak Morning: Transfer by motorcoach to the to us about how Finland reformed its education airport this morning, where we’ll board our system over recent decades, and which factors flight to Lapland. We’ll land in the afternoon are responsible for its modern success. and begin our approximately 30-minute motorcoach transfer to Inari. Notably, Finland distinguishes itself from other nations by moving away from a focus Lunch: You’ll have the opportunity to acquire on standardized testing, instead adopting lunch on your own during your transfer to Inari. an equitable and holistic model designed to Afternoon: We’ll arrive at Inari in the provide each student with the support they late-afternoon. Upon arrival, we’ll drive to a need for their individual success. However, local reindeer farm. Here, we’ll meet the owner, despite its popularity, there is still debate Armi, and she’ll give us a brief tour of the farm within the education community; for example, before sitting down for dinner. Swedish language courses are a mandatory part of the primary school curriculum—a Finnish Dinner: At the local reindeer farm. constitutional requirement which can trace its Evening: Following dinner, Armi will discuss roots to the country’s history as a territory of reindeer herding in Lapland with our small Sweden for so many centuries. Today, many group. Then, we’ll head to our hotel and check students, teachers, and politicians question in. You’ll have the remainder of the evening to whether this requirement makes sense in settle in and acquaint yourself with the hotel’s an independent Finland where such a small amenities. minority of the population speaks Swedish as a first language.

Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to explore independently, with dinner on your own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for restaurant recommendations.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

12 Day 6 Inari • Controversial Topic: culture. We’ll gain an intimate perspective of Protecting Sami rights and culture with this issue from Katariina who will share how Sami woman Katariina • A Day in the Life her community has changed over time, faced of a Sami husky farm hardships of disease and displacement, and fought adversity. • Destination: Inari • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner The Sami are the only indigenous people in the • Accommodations: Wilderness Hotel Inari European Union, with a population of around 80,000. They inhabit the region around the Exclusive O.A.T. Activities: Today’s discoveries Arctic Circle across Finland, Norway, Russia, will feature two memorable experiences. and Sweden. Collectively these regions are First, we’ll meet a local Sami woman for a termed Sami. The Finnish Sami make up conversation about Controversial Topics around 9,500 of the total Sami population—a affecting this indigenous group today—their small percentage of Finland’s 5.5 million ancestral rights in Lapland and the preservation people—and, like the rest of their people, live of their culture. Then, we’ll immerse ourselves apart in extremely rural areas. Traditionally, further in Sami tradition when we visit a husky most Sami people have supported themselves farm for our NEW A Day in the Life experience. through fishing, livestock farming, hunting, Read more about these activities below. and reindeer herding. Out of the traditional Breakfast: At the hotel. Sami livelihoods, reindeer herding still functions as one of the important cornerstones Morning: Arise this morning in Inari, the of the Sami culture by offering a space for using largest municipality in Lapland. Here above the Sami language, material for traditional clothing Arctic Circle is where, in the summer months, and other Sami handicrafts, and is the base of you’ll enjoy your first glimpse of the Midnight their food culture. Sun—the period of time between the middle of May and mid-July in which the sun never However, the Sami’s struggle to gain sets on the top of the world. O.A.T. is one of indigenous rights to their lands—a challenge the few travel companies to take travelers many native people around the world to the remote region of Inari, allowing you share—have made carrying on these traditions and your small group to take in the stunning a challenge. There are competing claims on scenery and unique local culture undisturbed the Sami’s native land from large companies; by the large crowds that frequent the more one such company is the Arctic Railroad, heavily-touristed resort towns to the south. whose proposed expansion would result in deforestation and a sharp decrease in space for We begin our discoveries at Sajos, a cultural reindeer herds. On the other hand, this remote and administrative center that houses the Sami area is far from the infrastructure that would parliament, where we’ll meet Katariina, a local lead to better health care, education, and other Sami woman who works at the cultural center utilities. An extension of the railroad into these to promote Sami heritage, for a conversation lands would benefit not just the Sami, but also about a Controversial Topic: the Sami’s other nearby Finnish communities as well. ongoing struggle with the Finnish government to gain rights to the land, water, and other Another issue we’ll discuss with Katariina is natural resources in the regions where they the struggle her people face conserving their live—and thus retain their traditions and culture. The Sami have co-existed with the

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

13 Finnish community for centuries, but over Next, we will travel by motorcoach to a nearby the past two hundred years there have been husky farm where we will delve even more shifts in Sami culture, politics, economics, deeply into Sami life during our NEW A Day and relations with their non-Sami neighbors. in the Life experience. Upon arrival, we’ll Like many indigenous people around the meet the owners—Joni, a Sami man, Anni, world, the Sami were at one point forced to his Finnish wife, and their young son—and assimilate—encouraged to abandon practicing introduce ourselves during a short conversation their traditional religious rituals in favor of about what life is like out here in the Lapland Christianity, and losing touch with the Sami countryside. As a culturally-mixed couple, language, which was not taught in Finnish Anni and Joni’s relationship is unique, but schools. Then at the end of the 19th century, a is becoming increasingly common as time nationalistic movement throughout the Nordic marches on—a promising indicator of the Sami countries increased tensions between the Sami and Finnish people’s ability to coexist. and the rest of the Finnish population. During After our introductions, we’ll head outside this period, many Sami people were pushed for a stroll on the farm to meet the rest of from their native settlements, and therefore their family—the more than 30 husky dogs couldn’t maintain their traditional livelihoods. who live an idyllic life in the great outdoors of The act establishing the Finnish Sami rural Lapland. We’ll learn about the important Parliament was passed in 1973. Then in role that these friendly creatures play in the 1995, Finland finally recognized the Sami as Sami people’s lifestyle in this region. In these a “people,” but they have yet to ratify ILO northern lands above the Arctic Circle, where Convention 169 Concerning Indigenous and snow covers the ground for large portions of Tribal Peoples, and has denied any indigenous the year, roads don’t always take you where you rights or land rights to the Sami people. need to go. For the Sami, huskies are more than Unfortunately, this means the Sami are still just loyal companions, they’re also a form of fighting to retain control over the ownership transportation. of their heritage. The small budget Parliament We’ll join in with Anni and Joni as they put their allots the Sami primarily goes to teaching and dogs through their paces and train them as a preserving the native Sami language in schools well-oiled sled-pulling team. We’ll see each and for cultural funds to support indigenous of the dogs’ individual personalities reveal artists. However, many younger Sami people themselves—some are born leaders that are are now opting to leave their community, always striving to take the lead position, while moving to the bigger cities in search of others are happy to simply be part of the team. opportunities not easily found in the wilds We’ll spend the rest of the morning helping of Lapland. out with other tasks on the farm—perhaps We’ll have an hour to talk about these issues taking the dogs on a walk through the and around 50 minutes to ask questions of surrounding forest, or doling out their food at Katariina—such as whether she thinks the mealtime—and then get ready for lunch. Finnish government is doing enough to create Lunch: Sample the flavors of Sami cuisine equal opportunities for younger Sami people in during an included lunch at the farm. Anni these remote lands. and Joni will choose the menu depending on what’s seasonally available, but we’ll likely

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

14 have a course of soup, meat or fish, and of approximately 3 hours, which will take us vegetables, all prepared from fresh, locally across the Norwegian border to the airport sourced ingredients. Weather-permitting, we’ll in Lakselv. dine Sami-style, gathered outdoors around Lunch: On your own during your transfer. a bonfire. Afternoon: We depart from Laksely, and then Afternoon: We’ll say goodbye to our hosts board a connecting flight to Stokmarknes. after lunch and return by private motorcoach We then drive by motorcoach to the village of to Inari, where the rest of the afternoon is Melbu to board a ferry to the village of Fiskebol. at leisure. You might choose to learn even From here, we drive to Svolvaer and check in to more about Sami history at the open-air Siida our hotel in the early evening. Museum, which offers an enlightening view of the long history and cultural traditions of this After settling in, our Trip Experience Leader indigenous culture, as well as on the oppression will take us on a short orientation walk of the of the Sami people over the centuries. In the neighborhood surrounding our hotel. 1800s, many of the Sami people were forced to relocate as their lands were taken over by Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to the government and affluent landowners, and explore independently, with dinner on your they were often treated as half citizens due to own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for their time-honored customs being considered restaurant recommendations. primitive by modern Finns. Today, many Sami are still fighting for their land as woodworking Day 8 Svolvaer • Trollfjord cruise • Lofoten companies threaten to take it over, and their World War II Museum rights as citizens of Finland who are striving to • Destination: Svolvaer keep their traditions alive. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Dinner: Included at the hotel restaurant. • Accommodations: Thon Lofoten Hotel or similar Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps Activity Note: The Trollfjord cruise is only you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in available on May-September departures and the lounge. is subject to local weather conditions. On April and October departures, an alternative activity Day 7 Inari • Transfer to Svolvaer will be offered, also subject to local weather conditions. • Destination: Svolvaer • Included Meals: Breakfast Breakfast: At the hotel.

• Accommodations: Thon Lofoten Hotel Morning: We awake this morning on the or similar Lofoten Archipelago, where towering mountain Breakfast: At the hotel. peaks rise sharply from the sea to form dramatic vistas in the arctic light. This is one Morning: We depart Inari this morning and of Scandinavia’s scenic highlights, which has begin our full-day transfer to Svolvaer. The inspired generations of artists. first leg of our journey is a motorcoach ride

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15 We’ll discover Lofoten’s legendary beauty from Day 9 Svolvaer • Explore Henningsvaer a unique perspective when we board a small • Destination: Svolvaer boat for a scenic cruise. We’ll sail the crystal • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch blue waters, weaving through the islands and passing by snowcapped peaks, sandy white • Accommodations: Thon Lofoten Hotel shores, and small fishing villages. As we ride, or similar we’ll be treated to commentary from onboard Breakfast: At the hotel experts, who can point out scenic highlights and tell us about the history of these islands. Morning: We board our motorcoach this morning and ride for about 1.5 hours to the We’ll also sail into Trollfjord, a narrow inlet fishing village of Henningsvaer. Here, we’ll flanked by towering mountains that stretch find brightly-colored homes scattered across into the sky. In addition to its scenic beauty, a tiny cluster of islands. In the wintertime, Trollfjord is home to a large population of sea Henningsvaer bustles with activity as fishing eagles; if you’re lucky, you might be treated to boats congregate to take advantage of the the sight of these majestic birds swooping by teeming schools of cod that make their home your boat as they hunt for fish in the waters in these waters for the season. More than just below. Once we arrive at Trollfjord, we’ll stop a typical fishing village though, Henningsvaer for an opportunity to engage in a popular local is a local cultural capital with burgeoning arts activity—fishing. scene. Local artistic attractions include an old caviar factory converted into a contemporary Lunch: A light lunch will be included onboard art exhibition hall, and the fish warehouse on during your Trollfjord cruise. the English Wharf now features an arts and Afternoon: We return to Svolvaer, where crafts workshop, hosted by two glassblowers, you have the freedom to spend the afternoon two potters, and a photographer. exploring independently. Upon arrival, your Trip Experience Leader Later this afternoon, we’ll join our Trip will lead a 30-minute discovery walk, and Experience Leader for a visit to the Lofoten then you’ll have about an hour to explore War Museum in town. While quite small, Henningsvaer on your own. Perhaps you’ll grab this private museum features an extensive a cup of coffee in a local shop. collection of uniforms and other artifacts from Then, we’ll head to Full Steam, one of the old World War II which tell the story of the Nazi factories turned exhibition hall. This former invasion and occupation of northern Norway cod liver oil factory has been converted into a from 1940-1945. We’ll meet the owner, William combined museum and restaurant. First, the Hakvaag, who will tell us about his passion for owner will give an introduction to the Lofoten World War II history, and show us his favorite fisheries and the Stockfish production before items from his collection. letting us lend a hand preparing a fresh lunch. Dinner: Included at a local restaurant. Lunch: We’ll gather together at the factory for Evening: You have the freedom to spend the an included lunch, which we’ll work together to rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps prepare using fresh ingredients. you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in the lounge.

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16 Afternoon: Following lunch, we’ll continue Our walk continues down Karl Johans gate, our discussion on fishing in the region. Since the city’s bustling main thoroughfare, as we at least as far back as the 1200s, people in the make our way to Oslo Cathedral, where royal area have harvested and used cod for various weddings and funerals are held. Next, we’ll needs. We’ll talk and have the opportunity to see the opulent Oslo Opera House, known for ask questions about this industry. Then, we’ll its unique architecture and the Carrara marble bid farewell before returning by motorcoach to used in its construction. Its elaborate design our hotel in Svolvaer. is the subject of some controversy within the region. Scandinavian architects tend to Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to value understated design, with a focus on explore independently, with dinner on your practicality, emphasizing simple silhouettes own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for and basic colors with a focus on function. restaurant recommendations. With its towering alabaster marble roof and curved shape, the Opera House eschews this Day 10 Svolvaer • Transfer to Oslo • convention, and its attention-drawing nature Explore Oslo has sparked controversy since it was first • Destination: Oslo opened in 2008.

• Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner Finally, we’ll see Akershus Fortress, built • Accommodations: Thon Cecil Hotel in the 13th century and renovated into the Breakfast: At the hotel. Renaissance style 300 years later. The castle enjoys a tranquil setting in a relatively quiet Morning: We depart our hotel in the morning part of the city, overlooking Oslo’s beautiful and drive by motorcoach to Svolvaer’s airport. fjord. Inside, the fortress hosts a museum We’ll depart from Svolvaer, and then board dedicated to the fighters who resisted the Nazis a connecting flight to Oslo. Our motorcoach during the German occupation of World War II; will be waiting to pick us up and take us to our you might choose to come back during your free hotel in Oslo, where our Trip Experience Leader time during your stay here. will lead us on a short orientation walk of our neighborhood. Dinner: Included at a local restaurant.

Lunch: On your own. Your Trip Experience Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Leader will help you find an ideal choice during rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps our orientation walk. you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in the lounge. Afternoon: We’ll have about an hour to rest, and then join our Trip Experience Leader for a 2-hour discovery walk around Oslo. We’ll take in some of the city highlights, including City Hall, where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every December, and the 19th century Royal Palace, where Norway’s King and Queen live and conduct their royal business.

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17 Day 11 Explore Oslo • Controversial attacks in Oslo in which 77 people—including Topic: Terror and justice in Norway with 55 teenagers—were murdered by right-wing Johan Lothe, a prisoner rehabilitation extremist Anders Behring Breivik. The attack specialist remains the deadliest mass shooting in Norwegian history. • Destination: Oslo • Included Meals: Breakfast During our time at the memorial center, we’ll • Accommodations: Thon Cecil Hotel meet with a local volunteer and educator to learn more about the events of that fateful day Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries and about their wide-ranging and sustained will include a conversation about a effects on Norwegian society: For example, Controversial Topic: The divided attitudes it is estimated that 1 in 4 Norwegians knows toward Norway’s restorative justice system in someone who was impacted by the attacks. the wake of the July 22 attacks. Norway’s prison We’ll talk with the volunteer to learn more system is focused on rehabilitation rather than about this tragic event and its impact on the punishment, and its prisoners enjoy shorter country’s psyche. sentences and more amenities than most of their counterparts around the world. Although Then, we’ll walk to the offices of WayBack, a the system shows impressive results, some non-governmental organization dedicated to question the fairness of applying this treatment helping prisoners re-integrate into society, to an unrepentant mass killer like Breivik. We’ll where we’ll meet its leader, Johan Lothe, for an meet with Johan Lothe, leader of WayBack—a hour-long conversation about a Controversial non-profit institution which helps ex-convicts Topic: The divided attitudes of Norwegians reintegrate into society—to learn more about toward the country’s restorative justice model this complex issue. Read more about this in the wake of the deadly attacks of July 22. activity below. While the Norwegian prison system’s Breakfast: At the hotel. rehabilitative focus has reduced crime and given the country one of the lowest recidivism Morning: We begin the day by riding the rates in the world—20%, compared to 43% in subway with our Trip Experience Leader the United States—many people within and to discover the world’s largest sculpture outside of the country are affronted by the fact park devoted to just one artist—Gustave that Breivik, an unrepentant racist terrorist Vigeland—and embark on an hour-long tour with the blood of children on his hands, is with a local guide. Known as Vigeland Park, allowed to take advantage of the system’s this unique open-air museum was Vigeland’s generous conditions. How can his victims know life work, filled with over 200 sculptures in justice, they ask, while Breivik is allowed to live bronze, granite, and wrought iron. Vigeland’s in luxury at the taxpayer’s expense, enjoying striking depictions of humanity are sprinkled amenities like a three-room cell, TV, video throughout the green, open space, creating a games, and daily access to the exercise yard? calm atmosphere that effortlessly fuses the beauty of nature with man-made art. We’ll learn about this controversy in detail during our conversation with Johan. As the Next, we’ll ride the public tram to the July 22nd leader of WayBack, Johan works closely with Memorial Center. This poignant memorial Norway’s ex-convicts on a daily basis—they commemorates the July 22, 2011 terrorist aren’t just the clients of the organization,

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18 they’re also the staff. Because he is so deeply There are no easy answers to an issue as connected with the issues affecting the emotional and divisive as this one, and as we lives of those touched by Norway’s prison will learn during our hour-long conversation system—both during their incarceration, and at WayBack, Breivik and the prison system the challenges of re-integration after their continue to be a topic of much debate in release—he’ll have an insider’s perspective of Norwegian society, pitting the country’s ideals both sides of this difficult issue. against the reality of an unspeakable tragedy. We invite you to ask questions of Johan, such The Norwegian prison system is known around as how life in Oslo has changed since 2011 in the world for its progressiveness and humane light of the attacks, and to look for signs of treatment of inmates. With an emphasis on this ongoing debate as we continue our travels rehabilitation, rather than punishment, the through Norway. “Norwegian model” restricts inmates’ liberty but otherwise does not rescind rights; inmates After our conversation, we’ll ride with our Trip are still allowed to vote (unlike in the United Experience Leader by public bus to the Bygdoy States) and are encouraged to pursue their Peninsula. education while serving time. In so-called Lunch: On your own at the Bygdoy Peninsula. “open prisons,” inmates are free to roam the Your Trip Experience Leader will be happy to campus grounds during the day. The maximum recommend a restaurant. prison sentence—regardless of crime—is 21 years, though this can be extended in 5-year Afternoon: You’ll have the remainder of the increments if the court does not believe the afternoon to explore independently. The prisoner is fully rehabilitated. Bygdoy Peninsula is the largest complex of museums in Norway, and this is a great While this model has been largely successful, opportunity to delve into the country’s many Norwegians have begun to question history. The complex houses the Viking Ship whether the system is harsh enough in the Museum, the Folk Museum, the Norwegian wake of the July 22 attacks. Some wonder if Maritime Museum, the Norwegian Museum rehabilitation of violent criminals is even of Cultural History, and two unique maritime possible. Despite murdering 77 innocent museums: the Kon-Tiki, commemorating the people, Anders Behring Breivik was only 1947 raft journey from the Pacific Ocean to the sentenced to 21 years in prison, a fact that has Polynesian islands, and the Fram, chronicling outraged many of the victims’ families. Of the history of Norwegian polar expeditions. course, it is possible—and some say almost a certainty, given the severity of his crime and his Perhaps you’ll take the local tram and then lack of repentance—that the court will choose ride to upper Oslo. You can follow the path of to extend his sentence in 5-year increments the Akerselva River as it weaves through the for much longer than that. In addition, many city, an area often overlooked by travelers. are angered by the luxuries Breivik receives In decades past, this was a neighborhood in in prison: He has, over the years, had an Xbox decline; with high crime and few economic video game console and a computer in his cell, opportunities, it was abandoned by many of though neither with Internet access. its residents and left to decay. Around the 21st century, however, it underwent a process of revitalization and is now one of Oslo’s most lively and diverse neighborhoods. Take in the

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19 scenes of daily life, as well as the harmony of Activity Note: Today’s motorcoach drive to picturesque houses and natural waterfalls. Flam will be approximately eight hours, with Surrounded by vibrant green trees, the river is numerous stops along the way. full of salmon and trout, and you may just spot Breakfast: At the hotel. a few swimming in the crisp water under the bridges. A walk along the Akerselva is a peaceful Morning: We begin our long motorcoach reprieve for many Oslo residents from the transfer toward the charming Flam area this bustle of city life. morning. As we drive, our Trip Experience Leader will help to pass the time by talking Dinner: On your own. Perhaps you’ll visit the with us about life and contemporary issues local market in Mathallen—a bustling hub of in Norway. Norwegian and international culinary delights, where you can take the opportunity to engage You might ask about the controversy with friendly locals and sample regional surrounding crude oil production in fare. Mathallen Oslo is a treasure trove for Norway—especially regarding its effect on gastronomy enthusiasts—around every corner aquatic life. We might also discuss the truth and one can find fresh, colorful produce as well as fiction about Norway’s high taxes, or “Jante unique vendors offering dishes hailing from Law,” the unspoken societal norms governing Eastern Europe to Japan and beyond. Norwegian life. Jante Law is a longstanding Scandinavian principle which emphasizes Evening: You have the freedom to spend the humility and the welfare of the community rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps over individual ego and exceptionalism; though you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in in recent years, some of Norway’s younger the lounge. generation are rebelling against it, and believe that it is time for Norwegians to be bolder. Day 12 Oslo • Borgund Stave Church • Apple cider farm visit • Home-Hosted Lunch: We’ll break up the drive from Oslo Dinner • Overland to Flam to Flam to enjoy an included lunch at a local café in Hemsedal, one of Norway’s renowned • Destination: Flam ski resorts. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Hotel Aurlandsfjord Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll continue on our drive, stopping along the way in the village Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will of Borgund, a quaint snapshot of Norway’s split into smaller groups of 4-5 to enjoy a history. There, we will visit the famous Stave Home-Hosted Dinner with local families in Church. Constructed around 1180 in honor of the village of Laerdal, a sustainable farming Saint Andrew the apostle, the Stave Church community of a little more than 1,000. Our is one of Norway’s best-preserved wooden small group size allows for more intimate churches from that period. Its multi-tiered, cultural exchange with the residents of this sloping rooftops are crowned with dragons’ typical Norwegian village and more meaningful heads—a distinctive Viking style—and the people-to-people experiences. Read more structure is adorned with intricate carvings about this activity below. inside and out. We’ll discover the church in depth during a guided tour with a local church keeper.

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20 Once our tour concludes, you’ll have a bit of Microbrewery is the perfect spot to grab a pint time to peruse the shops surrounding the of craft beer and chat with members of the Flam church before boarding the bus to continue our community. drive. Our next stop will be at an apple cider farm in the village of Laerdal, where we’ll Day 13 Flam • Norway in a meet the owner, Fredrik, and learn about the Nutshell • Bergen challenges of operating a small business in • Destination: Bergen this remote corner of the world. We’ll tour the farm and taste a few of the freshly-squeezed • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch ciders, then bid Fredrik farewell and continue • Accommodations: Thon Hotel Bristol Bergen on our way. or similar Breakfast: At the hotel. Dinner: We’ll split up into smaller groups of 4-5 and join local families in Laerdal, a Morning: We walk to the train station, where typical village of a little more than 1,000 for our Trip Experience Leader will acquire tickets a Home-Hosted Dinner. Situated in a lush for our included Norway in a Nutshell tour. As green valley, framed by dramatic mountain we hop aboard the vintage Flam Railway for a peaks and the deep blue waters of the spectacular one-hour ride across the steep and Sognefjord, Laerdal’s climate makes it an ideal narrow Flam Valley, you’ll admire waterfalls self-sufficient farming community. and glacier-carved ravines on what is considered by many to be the most scenic train We’ll learn more about what life is like for a ride in the world. Your Trip Experience Leader community fully committed to sustainability will provide commentary throughout your ride when we travel to traditional houses in the on the history of the railway and its importance village and sit down at the dinner table of a to Flam and the surrounding area. few families that live here. In our small group size, we’ll enjoy the opportunity to have a Arriving in the town of Myrdal, we’ll then meaningful conversation with our hosts to gain board another train bound for the city of Voss. an unfiltered view of daily life in a Norwegian Here we’ll have some time to use the facilities farming village. We’ll also be treated to a typical or grab a snack as needed. Voss is known home-cooked Norwegian dinner. Our hosts will primarily for its crisp mineral spring water. A choose the menu, but the main course is likely little-known fact: Voss supplies bottled water to be a meat and vegetable stew, accompanied for the White House. by dishes featuring the fruits, berries, and vegetables that thrive in this fertile region. From Voss, we ride by motorcoach to Bergen. Upon arrival, we’ll stop at a local restaurant After about two hours of cuisine and for lunch. conversation, we’ll say goodbye to our host family and travel by private motorcoach to Lunch: Included at a local restaurant in Bergen. Flam and check in to our hotel. Afternoon: Following lunch, we’ll join our Evening: Take some time to relax at the Trip Experience Leader for an orientation walk hotel, or head into town for a night cap. around the surrounding neighborhood. During For enthusiasts of local libations, the Aegir this time, our Trip Experience Leader will point out ATMs, restaurants, pharmacies, and spots to explore during your free time. Following our

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21 discoveries, we will check in to our hotel. You fishing industry’s economic growth, Norway will have the remainder of the day to explore on has become increasingly reliant on fish farms, your own. Perhaps you’ll take advantage of the where Atlantic Salmon are bred in captivity hotel’s amenities, or go for a stroll along the and genetically engineered to maximize their waterfront. growth. Some claim, however, that the fishing industry’s pursuit of maximum profit is causing Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to irreparable harm to the environment and must explore independently, with dinner on your be reined in before it is too late. own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for restaurant recommendations. We’ll delve into this issue during our hour-long conversation with the Green Warriors, who Day 14 Explore Bergen • Controversial will share their passion and depth of their Topic: Fish farming and the environment expertise on the issue. The Green Warriors were with local activists founded in 1993 with a mission to advocate for local environmental causes through • Destination: Bergen political advocacy, public education, and, • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch when necessary, direct action. During our • Accommodations: Thon Hotel Bristol Bergen conversation, we’ll become intimately familiar or similar with how fish farming became such a major Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries industry in Norway, and about the affects it has include a conversation about the Controversial on the environment today. Topic of fish farming in Norway. While fishing Norway has always relied heavily on the bounty is one of the country’s vital industries, many of the sea, and in the 1970s began to build its are concerned that the pollution and genetic first aquaculture farms, where Atlantic Salmon engineering involved in Norway’s aquaculture would be bred in captivity and exported. Since is causing irreparable harm to the environment. then, the industry boomed; more than 1.2 We’ll spend an hour with a local environmental million tons of salmon are farmed annually activist to learn about this issue—read more along the Norwegian coast, making up more about this activity below. than half of the world’s total production.

Breakfast: At the hotel. As the industry has grown, however, so have Morning: This morning, we’ll walk to the its accompanying environmental problems. offices of the Green Warriors of Norway, an For example, the farms produce an enormous environmental activist organization where amount of waste, which then flows out into we’ll meet a few members of the team for a the sea, affecting the health, migration, and conversation about a Controversial Topic: breeding patterns of all nearby marine life. The explosive growth of fish farming in Experts estimate that Norway’s fish farms Norway, and its harmful impact on the local produce and discharge an amount of sewage environment. equivalent to 8.8 million people each year.

As we’ve seen throughout our adventure, Environmentalists are also concerned about fishing is a major part of life in Norway. Next the health and welfare of the fish. Captive to oil and gas, fish is Norway’s second-largest salmon are kept in cramped living conditions, export, constituting more than $7.5 billion USD and are genetically engineered to grow quickly of the country’s annual GDP. To maximize the for maximum profit—farm fish grow to full

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22 size twice as fast as their wild counterparts. As Day 15 Explore Bergen a result, disease and genetic deformities are • Destination: Bergen endemic to the captive salmon population—a • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner problem which is exacerbated by the fact that more than 2 million salmon are believed to have • Accommodations: Thon Hotel Bristol Bergen escaped from their farms in the last 10 years, or similar threatening the health and biodiversity of the Breakfast: At the hotel wild salmon population through uncontrolled interbreeding. Morning: We’ll spend the morning exploring Bergen on a discovery walk with our Trip The local experts of the Green Warriors will Experience Leader. As we stroll through a spend about 20 minutes speaking to us about traditional neighborhood, we’ll observe how these environmental problems, and about the old and new blend seamlessly together in the solutions that they and other activists modern Bergen. Stylish youths and students are proposing, and we’ll then have about 40 share the streets with fishermen and sailors; minutes to ask questions of our own to deepen glass-and-concrete condos and commercial our understanding of this controversial issue. buildings stand side-by-side with trendy cafes and old wooden houses; Bergen is a city on the Lunch: We’ll enjoy an included lunch at the grow that remains in touch with its roots. Green Warriors’ office, made from organic ingredients. As we share our meal, we can learn Following our discoveries here, we continue more about the history of this organization, and our exploration of Bergen by joining a local about the unique qualities of its headquarters, a guide for a walking tour of the Bryggen (Wharf) green building that was converted from an old area which contains the fascinating historical warehouse entirely out of recycled materials. buildings that inspired UNESCO to declare the city a World Heritage Site. Built after the Great Afternoon: After lunch, the rest of the day Fire of 1702, these old wooden counting houses is free to explore independently. You might and warehouses with their stately gables choose to learn more about local marine life at stretch along the harbor and narrow alleyway the Bergen Aquarium, featuring 500 fascinating and once served as the headquarters for the species, including Gentoo penguins and sea Hanseatic League. lions. Art lovers may decide to stop by the KODE Art Museums, a four-building complex Lunch: On your own—you Trip Experience featuring art throughout the centuries. Leader can recommend a restaurant.

Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to Afternoon: Your final afternoon in Bergen is explore independently, with dinner on your free to spend exploring independently. You own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for might choose to get a bird’s-eye view of Bergen restaurant recommendations. by riding the scenic Floibanen funicular to the top of Mount Floyen. At the summit, you’ll be greeted by views of colorful homes stretching out in orderly rows, with fjords towering in the distance. Take some time to stroll the mountaintop park, reveling in the picturesque stillness and the views of Bergen and beyond from high above. The funicular is available

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23 to take you back down; or, if you’re up for a Evening: You have the freedom to spend the little more adventure, you can enjoy a gentle rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps hike down the slope, which should take about you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in 45 minutes. the lounge.

Before dinner this evening, we’ll join our Trip Experience Leader for a farewell briefing, to Day 16 Bergen • Return to U.S. share our memories from our adventure. • Included Meals: Breakfast

Dinner: Gather at a local restaurant for a Breakfast: At the hotel. Farewell Dinner, as we reminisce about our Morning: Transfer to the airport for your flight Scandinavian discoveries. home. Or begin your post-trip extension to Copenhagen, Denmark.

END YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL POST-TRIP EXTENSION 4 nights in Copenhagen, Denmark

Day 1 Fly to Copenhagen, Denmark • Day 3 Copenhagen • Explore Roskilde & Explore Copenhagen Viking Ship Museum Day 2 Explore Copenhagen • Day 4 Copenhagen • Explore Christiania Canal boat ride Day 5 Copenhagen • Return to U.S.

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24 PRE-TRIP Baltic Capitals: Riga, Latvia & Tallinn, Estonia

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip » Accommodations: 3 nights in Riga and 2 Experience Leader nights in Tallinn » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and » 9 meals—5 breakfasts, 2 lunches, luggage porters and 2 dinners » All transfers » 7 small group activities

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Experience the history and culture of two Baltic capitals. Explore Riga—a thriving Baltic port city that has been a key cultural and economic hub since its founding more than 700 years ago. Now the capital of Latvia, Riga is rich with beautifully preserved classic architecture, fascinating museums, and stirring monuments commemorating the city’s dynamic history. Then discover Tallinn’s rich historic legacy in its churches and merchants’ houses, and immaculately-preserved medieval old town. Plus, learn about how these Baltic nations bloodlessly separated from the Soviet Union as you learn about the history of the “Singing Revolution.”

Day 1 Depart U.S. Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to explore independently, with dinner on your Evening: Depart the U.S. today on your flight to own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for Riga. Please refer to your individual air itinerary restaurant recommendations. for exact departure and arrival times. Day 3 Explore Riga Day 2 Arrive Riga, Latvia • Destination: Riga • Destination: Riga • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner • Accommodations: Hotel in Riga • Accommodations: Hotel in Riga Afternoon: Arrive throughout the day in Breakfast: At the hotel. Riga, Latvia. You’ll be met at the airport and accompanied to your hotel, where you are Morning: We join our Trip Experience Leader invited to join your Trip Experience Leader in the hotel this morning for a short welcome for an orientation walk of the area around briefing to get acquainted with each other, and your hotel. to enjoy a preview of the discoveries we can expect from the days to come.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

25 Then, we set out by motorcoach for a everyday life in Riga. Perhaps you’ll sample panoramic city tour of Riga. Set close to the fresh pickles and sauerkraut at one of the mouth of the Daugava River, which travels from market’s many colorful stalls. the Baltic Sea into Russia, Riga was historically Lunch: On your own. The market has a an important trade port. Its prosperity also cornucopia of delicious cuisine to choose from, made it a target for conquerors; before Latvia or your Trip Experience Leader can recommend declared itself an independent nation in 1918, a restaurant or café. Riga was claimed by Russia, Sweden, Lithuania, and Germany. As a diverse, thriving city with Afternoon: After lunch, our Trip Experience a prominent upper class, Riga experienced Leader will lead us on a discovery walk through radical change under occupation by the Soviets Kipsala Island. We’ll cross the Vansu Bridge and Nazis. Riga was heavily damaged during over the Daugava River and explore this quiet, World War II, but buildings from Riga’s most charming neighborhood for about an hour and prosperous eras—particularly the Art Nouveau a half. Once the domain of fishermen, Kipsala period—still stand throughout the city as every Island today is a peaceful enclave of restored effort was made to reconstruct those buildings, wooden buildings, ideal for wandering and such as St. Peter’s Church. Today, Riga is a admiring views of the Old Town skyline across vibrant cosmopolitan city, revered as an artistic the river. hub, particularly in the realm of Soviet ballet. Mikhail Baryshnikov, arguably the most famous The rest of the afternoon is free to explore male ballet dancer in the world, was actually independently. born in Riga when it was under Soviet rule. Dinner: Gather together at a local restaurant to Our tour begins in Riga’s Art Nouveau district enjoy an included Welcome Dinner. where we’ll see how the architectural style Evening: You have the freedom to spend the influences the city today. Riga contains among rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps the highest concentration of Art Noveau you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in architecture in the world, making it an the lounge. excellent place to seek out this distinct style. Most buildings were designed in the early 20th century and generally represent one of Day 4 Riga • Latvian politics conversation four niches within the architectural genre: • Explore Rundale Palace eclectic, perpendicular, national romantic, and • Destination: Riga neo-classical. We’ll then drive to Riga’s Old • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Town, a dizzying collection of cobbled lanes, • Accommodations: Hotel in Riga gargoyle-adorned buildings, and lovingly Breakfast: At the hotel. restored 17th-century architectural treasures under UNESCO World Heritage Site protection. Morning: We begin the day by meeting with a local expert for a conversation about Next, we’ll visit the Central Market, one of the what it’s like for a small country to be largest indoor markets in Europe and a UNESCO part of the European Union, as well as the World Heritage Site located in former Zeppelin relationship Latvia maintains with Russia. hangars. Here, our Trip Experience Leader will Over the centuries, Latvia has had a complex help us sample local produce and mingle with relationship with Russia, and spent the latter vendors to learn about the local cuisine and

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

26 half of the 20th century as an annexed Soviet Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to republic. Today, independent Latvia has joined explore independently, with dinner on your its western European neighbors as part of the own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for European Union—a diplomatic relationship restaurant recommendations. that sometimes causes tension with Russia, who sees the move as an encroachment on Day 5 Riga • Discover Parnu, Estonia its sphere of influence, as well as with its • Explore Tallinn • Song Festival sizeable Latvian Russian ethnic minority within Grounds visit its borders. • Destination: Tallinn We’ll learn about how this dynamic affects • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch contemporary Latvian politics, and the divided • Accommodations: Hotel in Tallinn attitudes about it within the population, during an hour-long conversation with our local Activity Note: Today will be a particularly long expert. We’ll also have the opportunity to ask travel day. Our bus transfer from Riga to Tallinn questions to further our understanding of this will take approximately 8 hours, with several complicated issue. included stops along the way.

Then, we’ll drive by motorcoach to Rundale Breakfast: At the hotel. Palace. Upon arrival, we’ll join our Trip Morning: We depart by bus for Tallinn, the Experience Leader for a guided tour of capital of Estonia. This is a long drive of this sprawling Baroque palace originally approximately 8 hours, which we will break constructed for the Dukes of Courland. We’ll up throughout the day. Our first stop is Parnu. learn the history behind the rooms adorned Here, we’ll have a chance to stretch our legs with period furnishings and take in the vast and catch a glimpse of Estonia’s premier grounds. We’ll have time to explore the seaside resort during a 30-minute walk led by manicured rose garden located on both sides of our Trip Experience Leader that ends at a local the landscape, home to 52 rose circles blooming restaurant. with varietals from different countries. Lunch: Included at a local restaurant in Parnu. Lunch: We’ll enjoy an included lunch at a local restaurant. Afternoon: We’ll continue our drive to Tallinn, and, upon arrival, stop to discover the Song Afternoon: We return to Riga by motorcoach Festival Grounds. Tallinn was the site of where the rest of the day is free to explore Estonia’s “Singing Revolution”—a series of independently. You might choose to visit the protests in the late 1980s where thousands Latvian Academy of Sciences, a rare piece gathered and sang for independence from of Soviet architecture known as “Stalin’s the Soviet Union. After four years of singing birthday cake” to the locals. Or relax in a café and other acts of protest, Estonia achieved and, if you dare, order a beverage with Riga something remarkable—independence from Black Balsam—an herbal liqueur that Latvians the Soviets through a relatively bloodless celebrate as an invigorating cure-all for revolution. Today, Tallinn manages to preserve whatever ails you. its history and quaint medieval buildings, while at the same time continuously evolving and

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

27 modernizing. As the home of the only technical Heritage-designated Old Town, a tangled university in Estonia, Tallinn has earned a warren of cobbled streets lined with outdoor reputation as quite the technology hub. cafés and wonderfully preserved 14th- and 15th-century buildings. Our tour will end in After our visit here, we’ll depart for the city’s the Town Hall Square, then we’ll enjoy free upper town, where we’ll get panoramic views of time from 11:45am onward. You may choose to our new surroundings from a viewing platform. continue strolling through the Old Town. We’ll then drive to our hotel, concluding our journey. The rest of the day is free to relax or The rest of the afternoon is free to explore explore independently. independently. Or, you can join our half-day optional tour to visit an Estonian dairy farm Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to and the Rocca al Mare open-air museum. explore independently, with dinner on your own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for Lunch: If you’ve chosen to join our optional restaurant recommendations. tour, you’ll visit a working Estonian dairy farm that produces cheese and yogurt. The owner Day 6 Explore Tallinn • Optional Farm visit guides you around the farm, treats you to & Rocca al Mare tour some of the farm’s delicacies, and invites you to lunch. • Destination: Tallinn • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner If you’ve elected to explore independently, • Accommodations: Hotel in Tallinn lunch is on your own today.

Breakfast: At the hotel. Afternoon: Your optional continues with a visit to the Roca al Mare open-air museum, where Morning: We’ll discover more of Tallinn today you’ll learn about Estonia’s village life. Dozens on an included tour of its Old Town with our of farmhouses from the 18th and 19th centuries Trip Experience Leader. We’ll discover its have been preserved in a farmyard and village historic highlights, such as the Fat Margaret setting, complete with a village church, an Tower—listed as a UNESCO World Heritage inn, and some mills. It’s quite a contrast to the site, the tower houses exhibits about maritime urban scene of Tallinn’s Old Town, but just as trade, agencies, and navigation in the Middle vital a part of the area’s heritage. Ages, as well as in the era of sailing, steam, and motor ships. From here, we’ll embark on We’ll explore the museum on a guided tour a 2-hour walking tour of the city, exploring with our Trip Experience Leader, followed by notable sites and wandering Tallinn’s ancient some time to wander around independently. streets. Estonia’s capital and largest city, We return by motorcoach to our hotel in Tallinn Tallinn, sits on the Bay of Finland, directly late this afternoon. across from Helsinki. Dinner: Included at a local restaurant. We’ll find both Scandinavian and Russian Evening: You have the freedom to spend the influences in the language and culture here. rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps As with most major Baltic cities, Tallinn was you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in occupied by the Soviets, then the Nazis, and the lounge. then the Soviets again, who forced Estonia into the U.S.S.R. We’ll begin our walking portion of the tour in the city’s UNESCO World

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

28 Day 7 Tallinn • Estonian independence During our conversation, our local expert will conversation • Join main trip discuss the details of the revolution and the choral traditions of Estonia, including the • Included Meals: Breakfast “five patriotic songs” series sung at the Old Breakfast: At the hotel Town Festival, produced by composer Alo Mattiisen in 1988. Morning: We’ll join a local expert this morning for a conversation about Estonian The rest of the morning is free to explore independence. Estonia first became a sovereign independently, or to prepare for your transfer nation in 1918, when it split from the Russian to Finland. Empire following the chaos of the end of World Lunch: On you own. Your Trip Experience War I. The small republic enjoyed independence Leader can recommend a restaurant or café. for 22 years until the outbreak of World War II, when it found itself caught in a tug of war Afternoon: We drive by motorcoach to Tallinn’s between the Soviet and Nazi regimes. At the ferry terminal, and board the ferry which war’s end, Estonia became a Soviet Republic, will take us to Helsinki. Upon arrival, we’ll and remained so until the final years of the disembark and drive to our hotel to begin our USSR. In 1988, Estonia began its bid for New! Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, independence during the “Singing Revolution;” Norway & the Arctic Circle adventure. four years of protest and defiance which resulted in the country’s bloodless separation from the Soviet Union in 1991.

OPTIONAL TOUR

Farm visit & Rocca al Mare (Day 6 $140 per person) Visit a working Estonian dairy farm that produces cheese and yogurt. We’ll meet the owner as he guides us around the farm and treats us to some of the farm’s delicacies during an included lunch. We’ll also visit the Rocca al Mare open-air museum to learn about Estonia’s village life. Dozens of farmhouses from the 18th and 19th centuries have been preserved in a farmyard and village setting, complete with a village church, an inn, and some mills. It’s quite a contrast to the urban scene of Tallinn’s Old Town, but just as vital a part of the area’s heritage.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

29 PRE-TRIP St. Petersburg: Russia’s Imperial Capital

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Airfare from St. Petersburg to Helsinki » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip » Accommodations: 5 nights in St. Petersburg Experience Leader » 13 meals—5 breakfasts, 4 lunches, and 4 » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and dinners (including 1 Home-Hosted Dinner) luggage porters » 8 small group activities » All transfers

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Add another country to your discoveries and explore the showcase city of the tsars, founded by Peter the Great in the 18th century to boast Russia’s prestige to the rest of the world. From the countless treasures of the Hermitage to one of the world’s most beautiful subway systems, St. Petersburg is a city that continues to impress to this day.

Day 1 Depart U.S. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps Evening: Depart the U.S. today on your you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in flight to St. Petersburg. Please refer to your the lounge. individual air itinerary for exact departure and arrival times. Day 3 Explore St. Petersburg & Hermitage Museum Day 2 Arrive St. Petersburg, Russia • Destination: St. Petersburg • Destination: St. Petersburg • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Included Meals: Dinner • Accommodations: Hotel in St. Petersburg • Accommodations: Hotel in St. Petersburg Breakfast: At the hotel. Afternoon: Arrive throughout the day in St. Petersburg, Russia. You’ll be met at the airport Morning: We’ll board a motorcoach for a and accompanied to your hotel, where you are panoramic tour of the city. Founded as the new invited to join your Trip Experience Leader capital of the Russian Empire more than 300 for an orientation walk of the area around years ago, St. Petersburg was the vision and your hotel. creation of Tsar Peter I, who named it after his patron saint. This beautiful showcase of a city, Dinner: Included at a local restaurant. covering 150 square miles, is a synthesis of both European and Russian styles, with elements of East and West. Pushkin called this city “Peter

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30 the Great’s Window to the West.” With more Dinner: Gather with your fellow travelers and than 40 islands, 60-plus canals, and hundreds Trip Experience Leader for an included dinner of lovely bridges, St. Petersburg is considered at a local restaurant. one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the We’ll enjoy a guided tour of St. Isaac’s rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps Cathedral. The largest church in the city, it was you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in originally built to serve as the main church of the lounge. the Russian Empire. The dome of the cathedral, which dominates the city’s skyline, is gilded Day 4 St. Petersburg • Visit communal with more than 200 pounds of gold, and the apartment • Fabergé museum • Optional interior is elaborately decorated with mosaics, Catherine Palace tour icons, malachite, and lapis lazuli. This grand church can seat 14,000 worshipers. Although • Destination: St. Petersburg the church was closed after the 1917 Revolution, • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch it reopened as a museum in 1931, and services • Accommodations: Hotel in St. Petersburg for worshipers resumed in 1990. Breakfast: At the hotel.

Lunch: Included at a local restaurant. Morning: We begin today’s discoveries with a Afternoon: Our city tour resumes as our glimpse into modern Russian life by meeting motorcoach takes us to the Hermitage Museum, with the residents of a kommunalka—one of St. where we’ll enjoy a guided tour. Formerly Petersburg’s communal apartments. known as the Winter Palace and home of the The kommunalkas trace their origins to tsars, the Hermitage is now one of the largest the Bolshevik Revolutions. In 1917, as museums in the world. Built by the Empress the Communists overthrew the Tsarist Elizabeth, daughter of Peter I, the palace government, a great population shift occurred became part of the Hermitage in 1764 when as Russians migrated en masse to the Catherine the Great began her private art cities—either voluntarily or through forced collection. relocation programs. Facing an intense housing Today, more than 1,000 lavishly adorned rooms shortage, the Communists seized the grand house nearly three million exhibits and displays estates of the old nobility and bourgeoise class, representing some of the world’s greatest converting them hastily into group apartments. art from ancient Egypt to early 20th-century Over time, as the Soviet Union expanded Europe. Your two-hour tour, led by a local its housing by constructing new apartment guide, will include a visit to the museum’s blocks outside the cities, the kommunalkas fell vast Western European art collection, as well into disuse. In St. Petersburg, however, many as a peek into the Winter Palace’s elaborately communal apartments still exist, generally decorated state rooms. rented by students or families with no other After our Hermitage tour, we drive back to affordable way to live within the city center. our hotel, where you’ll have about an hour to We’ll visit a kommunalka and sit down with a explore independently before dinner. resident family for a conversation about what it’s like to live in one of these old buildings over tea and cake. We’ll get a firsthand look at

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31 how the residents have converted the building Day 5 St. Petersburg • Optional Yusupov to support the crowded living conditions, and Palace & River Cruise • Peterhof Palace • learn about daily life in St. Petersburg. Home-Hosted Dinner Next, we visit the Fabergé Museum. This • Destination: St. Petersburg privately-owned museum and former palace • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner holds the world’s largest exhibition of artwork • Accommodations: Hotel in St. Petersburg by the House of Fabergé, such as paintings, Breakfast: At the hotel. porcelain, jewelry and eleven of the renowned Fabergé eggs—the largest collection in Morning: The morning is free for your own Russia and the only place to view them in St. discoveries. Petersburg. The eggs used to belong to the Forbes Collection, but were purchased by Or, join an optional tour featuring a cruise Russian oligarch Wexelberg with the intent along St. Petersburg’s picturesque waterways to return them to Russia. Overlooking the and Yusupov Palace. We’ll begin our cruise in Fountain River, a visit to the Fabergé Museum the historical center of the city, and journey also reveals detailed interiors and various along several different rivers and canals, until personal belongings of the royal Russian family you enter the main waterway—the Neva River. that lived there. When the city was founded, there were no bridges across the river, and boats and ferries Lunch: Included at a local restaurant. were the main means of transportation. The river served, in essence, as the main street of Afternoon: The rest of the day is free for your the city, as Peter the Great intended. During our own discoveries. Or, join an optional tour boat ride, we’ll admire the noble architecture through the countryside to Catherine Palace, of the 18th- and 19th-century mansions one of the great tsarist estates. Built for Peter overlooking the river embankments, as well the Great’s wife, Catherine I, and expanded by as many bridges featuring elaborate cast-iron his daughter, the Empress Elizabeth, Catherine railings and lanterns. Palace is a striking example of Russian Baroque architecture. Catherine Palace was burned Then we visit the splendid Yusupov Palace. to the ground in the great World War II siege Yusupov Palace was owned by one of the of Leningrad, and the restored building that wealthiest families in Russia, and stands just stands today is said to be the finest replica in beyond the “Bridge of Kisses.” Built by Vallin the world. Its 600-foot façade glitters in all de la Mothe in 1760, the palace’s claim to fame its former glory, with elegant white columns is as the place where Prince Yusupov murdered and ornate gold moldings set against an azure Rasputin in 1916. Here we’ll see where it all background. Perhaps you’ll view one of the took place, as we browse rooms that have been Palace’s most famous rooms—the Amber restored to evoke the eerie atmosphere of the Room—featuring amber panels, mosaics, night of the murder. Another palace highlight is and mirrors. its private theater, one of the most beautiful of its kind in all of Europe. Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to explore independently, with dinner on your Lunch: We enjoy lunch together—including own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for travelers who elected not to join the optional restaurant recommendations. tour—at a local restaurant.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

32 Afternoon: We’ll ride the St. Petersburg metro, Then, we’ll get a sobering look at local admiring the lavish décor of its stations, as we World War II history during a visit to the make our way to to Peterhof, for a guided tour Leningrad Siege Museum, a moving tribute of the park and one of the small palaces. This to the residents of St. Petersburg—called magnificent summer residence of the Russian Leningrad at the time—who endured the royalty is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In brutal two-and-a-half-year Nazi siege of the 1714, Peter the Great asked for a “Versailles city from September 8, 1941, to January 27, by the Sea.” The site evolved into a palace 1944. Although the city never surrendered, its atop the hill surrounded by a park. In addition inhabitants endured unimaginable suffering. to exploring the palace, we’ll also witness Cut off from supplies, and living under constant the Grand Cascade, an elaborate fountain bombardment, they lived without food, fuel, ensemble made up of three waterfalls, nearly or medicine, freezing in the winter, and dying 150 fountains shooting more than 2,000 jets of from disease in the summer. water, and a myriad of statues and sculptures. In the end, more than 700,000 civilians died, We’ll also discover the palace’s lower gardens making it one of the deadliest sieges in history. and fountains. We’ll learn more on a guided tour of the Dinner: You’ll visit a Russian family in their museum, learning about the siege through a home for an evening of relaxed dining and collection of artifacts and written sources, and conversation. This Home-Hosted Dinner is discover its lingering impact on the psyche of a rare opportunity to truly get to know the St. Petersburg today. people who live and work here—and get their We will then take a short stroll down Solyanoy firsthand impressions of how Russian life has Lane, a quiet pedestrian-friendly alley changed since the collapse of communism. frequented by local artists and creative types, Evening: You have the freedom to spend the then drive to Vasileostrovsky market, one of rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps the oldest food markets in the city. We’ll find a you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in wide variety of handmade cuisine on offer here, the lounge. and our Trip Experience Leader will lead us through the stalls, pointing out local specialties Day 6 St. Petersburg • Life in Modern and helping us connect with the vendors and Russia conversation • Leningrad Siege shoppers. Museum • Optional Ballet performance or Lunch: On your own—there’s no shortage of Russian Folk Show options in the market, and your Trip Experience • Destination: St. Petersburg Leader will be happy to suggest cuisine to suit • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner your tastes.

• Accommodations: Hotel in St. Petersburg Afternoon: The afternoon is free to explore Breakfast: At the hotel. independently. You might choose to join your Trip Experience Leader on a walk to the nearby Morning: A St. Petersburg resident will join Erarta Contemporary Art Gallery, where you us at our hotel for a conversation about life in can discover the works of modern aspiring modern-day Russia, for an insightful look at Russian artists as well as renowned masters. contemporary issues facing this country. This privately-owned museum—the largest of its kind in Russia—and non-profit organization

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

33 provides educational projects to foster a Or join us for an optional ballet performance connection between artwork and the viewer. from one of several St. Petersburg ballet Containing 2,800 works of contemporary art companies. When the ballet is not available, created by more than 300 artists from over enjoy an evening of music and dance at the 20 regions of Russia, Erarta aims to expose optional Russian Folk Show. visitors to a wide variety of paintings, graphics, sculptures, objects, installations and more. Day 7 St. Petersburg • Join main trip The collection is continuously growing, and • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch the artwork of budding, lesser-known artists is frequently displayed here. Breakfast: At the hotel.

Dinner: Dinner tonight is included at a local Morning: We transfer to the St. Petersburg restaurant. airport, where we’ll fly to Helsinki to begin our New! Under the Midnight Sun: Sami Lapland, Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Norway & the Arctic Circle adventure. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Lunch: You’ll be given a boxed lunch before you depart your hotel.

OPTIONAL TOURS

Catherine Palace Yusupov Palace & river cruise (Day 4 $95 per person) (Day 5 $90 per person) Consider joining us for a tour through the Join our optional tour and get to know St. countryside to one of the great tsarist palaces. Petersburg, often called the “Venice of the Built for Peter the Great’s wife Catherine the North,” as you enjoy a cruise along the city’s First and expanded by his daughter Elizabeth, picturesque waterways. You’ll begin your Catherine Palace is a striking example of cruise in the historical center of the city, and Russian baroque architecture. Catherine Palace journey along several different rivers and was burned to the ground in the great World canals, until you enter the main waterway—the War II siege of Leningrad, and the restored Neva River. When the city was founded, there building that stands today is said to be the were no bridges across the river, and boats and finest replica in the world. Its 600-foot façade ferries were the main means of transportation. glitters in all its former glory, with elegant The river served, in essence, as the main white columns and ornate gold moldings set street of the city, as Peter the Great intended. against a background of brilliant sky blue. During your boat ride, you’ll admire the noble Perhaps you’ll view one of the Palace’s most architecture of the 18th and 19th century famous rooms—the Amber Room—featuring mansions overlooking the river embankments, amber panels, mosaics, and mirrors. as well as many bridges featuring elaborate cast iron railings and lanterns. Please note: This optional tour is pre-sold only, and must be purchased at least 25 days in advance of your departure date.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

34 Then visit the splendid Yusupov Palace. Please note: This optional tour is available only Yusupov Palace was owned by one of the when the optional Ballet Performance is not wealthiest families in Russia, and stands just available. beyond the “Bridge of Kisses.” Built by Vallin de la Mothe in 1760, the palace’s claim to fame is as the place where Prince Yusupov murdered Rasputin in 1916. Here you’ll see where it all took place, as you browse rooms that have been restored to evoke the eerie atmosphere of the night of the murder. Another palace highlight is its magnificent private theater, one of the most beautiful of its kind in all of Europe.

Ballet performance (Day 6 $125 per person) Join us this evening for an optional visit to one of the several ballet companies in St. Petersburg, long respected as an international capital of ballet. You’ll visit a centrally located theater and enjoy a staging of a world-famous ballet. A vivid spectacle of dance, scenery, and music—all with an inimitable Russian flavor—will entrance you.

Please note: This optional tour may not be available on all departures due to variable performance schedules, and an alternative Russian Folk Show optional tour will be offered.

Russian Folk Show (Day 6 $90 per person) Join us for an evening of folk show performance in the magnificent Concert Hall of Nikolaevsky Palace. You’ll enjoy dances and songs from different provinces of Russia represented by four professional folk groups. This two-hour show consists of two parts including a break, during which you’ll be offered tempting local refreshments. You’ll gain a new appreciation for Russian culture and the traditions that make it unique.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

35 POST-TRIP Copenhagen, Denmark

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Airfare from Bergen to Copenhagen » Copenhagen Card: Free entrance to » Accommodations: 4 nights in Copenhagen more than 60 attractions and free public at the Phoenix Copenhagen Hotel or similar transportation within the city » 8 meals—4 breakfasts, 2 lunches, » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip and 2 dinners Experience Leader » 7 small group activities » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters » All transfers

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Discover Copenhagen, the capital of a country that’s consistently ranked as one of the happiest places in the world. Ease into the laid-back Danish lifestyle for four nights and enjoy, whether partaking in the amusements of Tivoli Gardens, or ambling past the pastel houses of Nyhavn, the city’s famous waterfront district. Plus, enjoy a glimpse into the world of the Vikings on an excursion to Roskilde.

Day 1 Fly to Copenhagen, Denmark • Afternoon: We drive to the airport this Explore Copenhagen afternoon and board our flight to Copenhagen. After landing, we transfer by motorcoach to our • Destination: Copenhagen hotel, arriving in the early evening. • Included Meals: Dinner • Accommodations: Phoenix Copenhagen After checking in, we’ll set off on a half-hour Hotel or similar orientation walk to discover the nearby sights with our Trip Experience Leader. Just Morning: We have the morning free to explore a few minutes away, we’ll see Amalienborg Bergen independently or make any last-minute Palace, where the Danish royal family resides. preparations before our flight to Copenhagen Constructed in 1760, the area consists of a this afternoon. If you like, you can join your cluster of four palaces, two of which are open Trip Experience Leader on a short discovery to the public. Your Trip Experience Leader will walk for one last look at Bergen. speak to the history of the Danish monarchy Lunch: On your own. Your Trip Experience there, as well as what royalty looks like in Leader can recommend a restaurant. the country today—you can still witness the changing of the guard surrounding the

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

36 premises, and the family still uses many of the building, and currently the seat of Danish reception rooms to greet leaders from around government, housing the national parliament, the world. Supreme Court, and Ministry of State.

Make your way to the glistening waterfront We’ll continue on to see one of the city’s for a view of Maersk Opera House, a feat of signature attraction—the Little Mermaid modern architecture, as well as of the recycling monument. Unveiled in 1913, the Little plant. Denmark is considered a forerunner in Mermaid was designed from bronze and granite green energy and waste management, and by Edvard Eriksen and given as a gift to the city your Trip Experience Leader will provide some from Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen of Carlsberg perspective on the history of the industry in Breweries. The statue marks the influence of Copenhagen and how it has affected residents’ fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen, who daily lives. The waste-to-energy plant, in fact, was born in Copenhagen. Andersen published includes a year-round ski slope climbing wall, the original story in 1837 in a collection of so visitors can experience a blend of education children’s stories, and since then, the journey and recreation. of a young mermaid willing to risk everything for a human soul has been retold and adapted Of course, you’ll also walk past colorful Nyhavn again and again. A small, but intricately as well as the many nearby grocery stores, sculpted statue, the Little Mermaid has guarded pharmacies, and ATMs surrounding your Copenhagen’s harbor for over a century. In hotel. You can explore Copenhagen on a deeper 2013, a celebration of the statue’s 100th year level with a number of suggested free time took place throughout the city. activities. If time allows today, you might take an approximate one-hour canal ride around Our morning tour concludes with a gentle ride the city. on a canal boat, which will take us on a scenic ride through the city’s harbor and waterways, Dinner: Join your fellow travelers at a local with a local guide onboard to provide expert restaurant for an included dinner. commentary. This canal boat ride is included in Evening: You have the freedom to spend the your 72-hour Copenhagen Card, which allows rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip entry to 60 of the city’s attractions and free Experience Leader for recommendations. transport on the bus, metro, and train lines. This card will also be your passport to exploring Day 2 Explore Copenhagen • the city during your free time over the next few days, allowing you to follow your interests Canal boat ride to the activities and destinations that most • Destination: Copenhagen appeal to you. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Lunch: We will walk to a local restaurant for an • Accommodations: Phoenix Copenhagen included lunch. Hotel or similar

Breakfast: At the hotel. Afternoon: You can spend the rest of the day exploring independently. You might also Morning: We explore Copenhagen on a choose to join your Trip Experience Leader for panoramic drive this morning. We’ll see a discovery walk to the 17th-century Rosenborg Christiansborg Palace, formerly a royal Castle. Entry to the castle is included in your

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

37 Copenhagen Card, where you’ll find the Crown Gothic trend throughout Northern Europe. Jewels and famous artwork, such as the portrait More than 40 kings and queens have been of Queen Caroline Mathilde from 1771. buried in the cathedral over the past 1000 years—the most royal cathedral burials in Dinner: Dinner is on your own tonight. Your the world. The Cathedral also sits atop a hill, Trip Experience Leader can recommend a granting visitors panoramic views of the city restaurant, or you can join them to discover and fjord laid out below. Tivoli Gardens—with three dozen restaurants to choose from, you’ll have your choice of fine Lunch: Included at a local restaurant in Danish or international cuisine. Roskilde.

Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Afternoon: We’ll delve further into Roskilde’s rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Viking heritage during a visit to the Viking Ship Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Museum. As the name suggests, this museum If you’ve chosen to join your Trip Experience is dedicated to studying and preserving the Leader at Tivoli Gardens, you’ll find ample boat-building and seafaring techniques of entertainment, including 25 amusement park Denmark’s ancient and medieval people. The rides, an open-air performance space, an centerpiece of the museum is a collection of five aquarium, concert halls, and theaters. restored Viking ships, excavated from Roskilde Fjord in 1962. The museum also specializes in Day 3 Copenhagen • Explore Roskilde & reconstruction, where visitors can watch as Viking Ship Museum workers reconstruct new vessels in the on-site shipyard. • Destination: Copenhagen • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch We’ll tour the museum and meet with some of • Accommodations: Phoenix Copenhagen the workers to learn about their passion for this Hotel or similar unique field of study, and watch as they build ships as the Vikings did, using historic tools and Breakfast: At the hotel. instruments. Morning: We’ll travel by public bus and train After our museum tour, we’ll walk back to to Roskilde, a city about 20 miles west of the train station and return to our hotel in Copenhagen and the one-time capital city of Copenhagen. Denmark. Established in the 980s, Roskilde was the epicenter of the Danish Viking world thanks Dinner/Evening: The evening is yours to to its location on an island near a fjord; today, explore independently, with dinner on your the city’s rich Viking legacy lives on, as we’ll own. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for see during a walking tour this morning with our restaurant recommendations. Trip Experience Leader. As we get acquainted with Roskilde, you’ll also learn about modern Day 4 Copenhagen • Explore Christiania life in the city, including the famous Roskilde • Destination: Copenhagen Rock Festival. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner Our walk finishes at the Roskilde Cathedral. • Accommodations: Phoenix Copenhagen Known as the first Gothic-style cathedral to Hotel or similar be built of brick, the Roskilde Cathedral was Breakfast: At the hotel. an incredibly influential site, starting the brick

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

38 Morning: We’ll set off via public transportation place for research as it is part of the University to discover the Christiania district of of Copenhagen Faculty of Science. There are Copenhagen, where we’ll enjoy a walking tour more than 13,000 species housed in the garden, with a local guide. Also known as “Freetown which are all arranged for easy viewing. Visitors Christiania,” this unique enclave of the city will find 600 species of Danish plants, 1,100 was established in 1971 by a counterculture species of perennial plants, 1,100 species of group who inhabited an abandoned military annual plants, and rock gardens including barracks and developed their own set of plants from mountainous areas in Central and societal rules, completely independent from Southern Europe and Conifer Hill. The garden is the Danish government. While it has since perfect for those wishing to escape the bustling accepted some adherence to Danish law, it city and enjoy a peaceful afternoon surrounded is still semi-autonomous today, and a haven by nature. for artists, musicians, and those seeking an Dinner: We’ll walk to a local restaurant this alternative lifestyle. evening and toast to our adventure during an We’ll tour Christiania with a member of included Farewell Dinner. the community, and learn about how it is Evening: You have the freedom to spend the a controversial subject of Danish society. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Some view it as a grand social experiment, an Experience Leader for recommendations. idealized vision of how self-governed life could be; others view it as a chaotic place, a flimsy pretext for the sale of drugs and other unlawful Day 5 Copenhagen • Return to U.S. behavior. • Included Meals: Breakfast

After our tour, we’ll have some time to wander Breakfast: At the hotel. around Christiana independently. The district Morning: Transfer to the airport for your flight is a mix of workshops, homemade houses, art back to the U.S. galleries, music venues, organic restaurants, and green spaces. While the neighborhood is perfectly safe, be aware that cameras are prohibited in Christiania to protect Freetown’s alternative nature.

Lunch: On your own—we’ll walk together to a nearby local market, or your Trip Experience Leader can offer suggestions if you’d prefer to go on your own.

Afternoon: The afternoon is free to explore independently. Perhaps you’ll stroll through the city’s colorful Botanical Garden. Located in the heart of Copenhagen, this garden famously features the largest collection of living plants in the world, covering more than 10 hectares with complex glasshouses dating back to 1874. The garden serves as both a recreational space and a

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

39 Under the Midnight Sun: RISK-FREE BOOKING POLICY: RESERVE WITH CONFIDENCE—NOW THROUGH 12/31/21 Sami Lapland, Norway & We will waive any change fees if you transfer to another departure date for the Arctic Circle any reason—up until 24 hours prior to departure. See details at www.oattravel.com/riskfree-booking.

2021 Dates & Prices

MAY 1-11; DEPART FROM APRIL; OCTOBER SEPTEMBER MAY 13-29 JUNE-AUGUST

New York $ 6995 $7495 $7795 $7995

Baltimore, Boston, Chicago, Minneapolis, $ 7195 $ 7695 $ 7995 $ 8195 Newark

Atlanta, Dallas, Detroit, Houston, Orlando, $ 7295 $7795 $8095 $8295 Philadelphia, Washington, DC

Denver, Los Angeles, Miami, Phoenix, $ 7395 $ 7895 $ 8195 $ 8395 Portland, San Francisco, Seattle, Tampa

San Diego $ 7495 $7995 $8295 $8495

Additional departure cities are available. Upgrade to Business Class may be available for the international portion of your flight. Call for details.

APRIL; OCTOBER MAY 1-11; SEPTEMBER MAY 13-29 JUNE-AUGUST Without international airfare $ 5895 $ 6395 $ 6495 $ 6695

MNS2021

Prices are per person. Airfare prices include government taxes, fees, and airline fuel surcharges. All prices and availability are effective as of the date of this publication, and are subject to change without notice. Standard Terms & Conditions apply, please visit our website: www.oattravel.com/tc. Every effort has been made to produce this information accurately. We reserve the right to correct errors.

For specific departure dates, current availability, and detailed pricing, visit www.oattravel.com/mns2021 pricing

SAVE UP TO 10% WITH FREE SINGLE SUPPLEMENTS SHARE YOUR LOVE OF TRAVEL OUR GOOD BUY PLAN We offer FREE Single Supplements on all New travelers you refer will instantly save The earlier you reserve your departure of our adventures and pre- and post-trip $100, and you’ll earn increasing rewards— and pay in full, the more you’ll save—up extensions. up to a FREE trip! to 10%—plus, you’ll lock in your price. Each departure has limited solo space For details, visit www.oattravel.com/va For details, visit www.oattravel.com/gbd available—call today to reserve.

Publication Date 12/18/20

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/mns2021

40 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: 3 blank “Visa” pages.

• Optional pre-/post-trip extensions: No additional pages needed unless the pre-trip is to Russia, in which case add 2 more pages for a total of 5.

No Visas Required Travelers with a U.S. passport do not need any visas for this adventure, including the optional trip extensions.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.

Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.

41 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

42 RIGORS, VACCINES & GENERAL HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Experience Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

GROUP SIZE • This adventure has a group size of 8-16 travelers (average of 13) with a local Trip Experience Leader exclusive to O.A.T.

PACING • 6 locations in 15 days with one 1-night stay

• 3 internal flights of 2-3 hours

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids

• You must be able to walk 2-3 miles unassisted and participate in 2 hours of physical activities each day

• Agility and balance are required for embarking a small boat

• We reserve the right for Trip Experience Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

CLIMATE • Daytime temperatures range from 35-80°F during cruising season

• June-August are the warmest months

• May and September weather can be unpredictable and change quickly

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Uneven walking surfaces, including unpaved paths, hills, stairs, and cobblestones

• Travel by 30-seat coach, train, ferry, subway, and public bus

• Travel by small boat for a total of 3 hours

FLIGHT INFORMATION • Travel time will be 8-20 hours and will most likely have one to two connections

43 Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

Vaccines Required

COVID-19 Overseas Adventure Travel requires that all travelers are fully vaccinated against COVID-19 and are able provide proof of their vaccination upon arrival at their destination. A full vaccination is defined as having been inoculated at least 14 days prior to departure by an approved vaccine. This requirement is not contingent on the countries the tour visits, but a strict company policy due to the nature of the pandemic.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

For Russia, the State Department did warn that large quantities of medication will receive scrutiny by Russian customs; they recommend that all U.S. citizens entering Russia with any prescription medication carry a copy of their valid U.S. prescription. This is your proof that your prescription medication was lawfully obtained in the United States.

Staying Healthy on Your Trip Jet Lag Tips

• Start your trip well-rested.

44 • Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies

If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water is safe in Finland, Norway, Denmark, Estonia, Latvia, and St. Petersburg. You may wish to bring a reusable bottle from home to fill up before heading out for the day.

• However, if you prefer bottled water, it is usually for sale in hotels, food shops, and restaurants.

• Never drink from a mountain stream, fjord, or river, regardless of how clean it might appear.

Food • Food is very safe here.

• The only time you might want to be careful is with street food—look for a stall/cart/truck that appears clean and that the locals frequent.

45 MONEY MATTERS: LOCAL CURRENCY & TIPPING GUIDELINES

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high. It’s more practical to view them as a last resort in the event of a special situation.

• You will not be able to pay with U.S. dollars on this trip; you will need local currency instead.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Euro Countries The euro is the official currency in many member countries of the European Union. Unless otherwise listed, the countries you will be visiting will use the euro. Euro banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euros

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents; 1 and 2 euros

Norway The monetary unit of Norway is the krone, written as Kr. on price tags but officially written as NOK. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000 kroner

• Coins: 1, 5, 10, and 20 kroner

Norwegian krone are not the same as Swedish kroner or Danish krone.

Denmark The monetary unit of Denmark is the krone which is divided into 100 oere. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000 krone

• Coins: 50 ore and 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 krone

Danish krone are not the same as Norwegian krone or Swedish krona.

46 Russia The monetary unit of Russia is the ruble, which is divided into 100 copeks. On price tags, it is abbreviated to p. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000 and 5,000 rubles

• Coins: 10 and 50 copeks and 1, 2, 5 and 10 rubles

Russian rubles can be very difficult to get outside of Russia, so we recommend exchanging money after you arrive.

How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets. Or you can wait and change money on the trip instead—but it might be helpful to arrive with some local currency in case you run into a bank holiday or an “out of order” ATM.

On your trip, the easiest way is to withdraw funds from a local ATM. The ATM will give you local money and your bank at home will convert that into U.S. dollars.

You can also exchange cash at some hotels, large post offices, and money exchange offices. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). New bills (post 2004) are best.

Please note that many banks in Europe will only exchange money for their own customers. Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$10 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

Scandinavia: ATMs are widely available throughout Scandinavia and should not be hard to find, especially in larger cities.

The Baltics: International ATM networks are widely available throughout the Baltics, so ATMs shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Russia: International ATM networks are widely available in larger cities and small towns.

47 Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

Scandinavia: Credit and debit cards are readily accepted in Scandinavia. Visa is the most widely accepted credit card in Scandinavia, followed by MasterCard and then American Express.

The Baltics: Credit cards are widely accepted in this region, especially Visa and MasterCard. American Express is not widely accepted in the Baltics.

Russia: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Russia, though some smaller establishments may require cash. Please note, American Express is not accepted in Russia.

Chip Cards Many countries have adopted a new type of credit card that has an embedded computer chip. These cards are inserted into the reader instead of swiped. The card owner then authorizes the purchase using a PIN instead of signing.

This new technology is only now gaining traction in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in other countries that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) If you are not able to sign for a purchase, such as at an automated ticket booth, you can use another form of payment, such as a debit card that has a PIN.

Notify Card Providers of Upcoming Travel Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines.

48 • O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your Trip Experience Leader at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person for each day their Trip Experience Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Trip Experience Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

• Hotel Housekeeping: Many travelers will leave the equivalent of $1-$2 per day, per room for the hotel housekeeping staff.

• Waiters: There is no need to tip at included meals. When dining on your own, a service charge may be included, but it is customary to leave an additional tip of around 10% of the bill.

• Taxi drivers: Tipping is not customary, but many locals will round up the fare and let the driver keep the change.

• Public Restrooms: Most public restrooms in Scandinavia are pay toilets; you pay the staff at the entrance, the attendant, or put a coin into the stall door. Costs vary from 0.5-1 euro, so be sure that you have coins available.

• Included in Your Trip Price: Gratuities are included for local guides and motorcoach drivers on your main trip, extensions, and optional tours operated by O.A.T.

49 AIR, OPTIONAL TOURS & STAYING IN TOUCH

Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air Quick Definitions

• Land Only: You will be booking your own international flights. Airport transfers are not included.

• Air-Inclusive: You booked international air with us. Airport transfers are included as long as you didn’t customize your trip’s dates (see next bullet).

• Personalized Air: You booked international air with us, and have customized it in some way. If you have customized your trip’s dates to arrive early, stay longer, or stop on your own in a connecting city, airport transfers will NOT be included. You must also arrange your own accommodations for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations”.

Airport Transfers Can Be Purchased For eligible flights, airport transfers may be purchased separately as an optional add-on, subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

If you don’t meet the requirements above, you’ll need to make your own transfer arrangements. We suggest the Rome to Rio website as a handy resource: www.rome2rio.com.

Air Inclusive Travelers If you have purchased international air with us, there are some points that may be helpful for you to know.

• U.S. Departure: If you are among a group of ten or more travelers who depart the U.S. from your international gateway city, it is our goal to have an O.A.T. representative assist you at the U.S. airport with the check-in of your flight. Unless there are extenuating circumstances beyond our control, the representative will be at the check-in counter three hours before your departure time. If you are flying domestically before your international flight, the representative will be stationed at the check-in counter for your departing international flight, not at the domestic arrival gate.

50 • Overseas Arrival: When you arrive in Oslo (on the main trip) or Copenhagen (on the pre-trip extension), you’ll need to collect your luggage and clear customs. An O.A.T. representative will meet you outside of customs and assist you with your transfer to the hotel or ship. Important note on porters: Airport porters are NOT allowed in the baggage claim area. On arrival, you must take your luggage off the baggage carousel and load it onto a cart, which you will then move through customs. When you exit customs, you’ll handle your cart until reaching your transfer vehicle. Your driver will load your luggage into the transfer vehicle.

• U.S. Return: If you are among a group of ten or more travelers who return to the same U.S. gateway city, an O.A.T. representative will meet you as you exit Customs and help you find taxis, buses, hotel accommodations, or connecting flights. Again, it is our goal to have our representative waiting to assist your group. In rare instances, unforeseen circumstances may prevent this service.

• Flying with a Travel Companion: If you’re traveling with a companion from a different household, and both of you are beginning and ending your trip at the same airport on the same dates, let us know you’d like to travel together and we’ll make every effort to arrange this (please note, however, that this is not always possible). If you request any changes to your flights, please be sure that both you and your companion tell us that you still want to fly together.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

• Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Experience Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Experience Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

51 Optional Tours: Reserve Before You Go We strongly recommend that you reserve the following optional tours in advance. Unless otherwise noted, the deadline to do so is 45 days prior to your departure. Occasionally, space will be available for booking onsite, but this not guaranteed. Optional tours with O.A.T. can only be purchased with a credit card (Visa or MasterCard) or a debit card with credit card functionality. Because our headquarters are in Boston, charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as “OPT Boston” (depending on your credit card company).

Catherine Palace

Consider joining us for a tour through the countryside to one of the great tsarist palaces. Built for Peter the Great’s wife Catherine the First and expanded by his daughter Elizabeth, Catherine Palace is a striking example of Russian baroque architecture. Catherine Palace was burned to the ground in the great World War II siege of Leningrad, and the restored building that stands today is said to be the finest replica in the world. Its 600-foot façade glitters in all its former glory, with elegant white columns and ornate gold moldings set against a background of brilliant sky blue. Perhaps you’ll view one of the Palace’s most famous rooms—the Amber Room—featuring amber panels, mosaics, and mirrors.

Please note: This optional tour is pre-sold only, and must be purchased at least 25 days in advance of your departure date.

This optional tour is offered during the St. Petersburg: Russia’s Imperial Capital trip extension. The cost is $95 per person.

Communicating with Home from Abroad

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone is “unlocked”, meaning it can accept a local SIM card. If your cell is “unlocked” then you will be able to purchase a local SIM for it and then buy minutes with “Pay as You Go” cards, so that you have a local contact number for your friends and family.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

52 Calling Cards & 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.). One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

Receiving Calls from Home To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one is to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.

How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Finland: +358 Estonia: +372

Norway: +47 Latvia: +371

Denmark: +45 Russia: +7

53 PACKING: WHAT TO BRING & LUGGAGE LIMITS

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on bag per person.

Weight restrictions Due to the domestic flight within Finland, the current standard for this trip is 44 lbs for checked bags and 15 lbs for carry-on bags.

Size Restrictions Varies by airline. Measured in linear inches (length+width+depth). Generally, 62 linear inches is the checked bag limit; carry-on limit is 45 linear inches.

Luggage Type A sturdy, fabric-sided suitcase with built-in wheels and lockable zippers is recommended.

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Same as the main trip.

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

One suitcase and one carry-on bag per person: Due to the space limitations on bus transfers, you’ll be restricted to one suitcase and one carry-on bag per person. This is to ensure that we have room for everyone’s luggage. We ask that you abide by this limit to avoid inconveniencing your fellow travelers and prevent additional airlines luggage fees (which are your responsibility). Most airlines now charge to check more than one suitcase per person for flights to Europe and other international flights.

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy. Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent. However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question.

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

54 • It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.

Your Luggage • Checked Luggage: Consider a duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Due to space limitations on our motorcoaches, you are allowed one piece of checked luggage per person. Porterage at airports and hotels is provided for one bag per person. All bags should have luggage tags.

• Carry-on Bag: You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

• Locks: For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions: Functional Tips • Travel light: A good rule of thumb is to gather together everything you want to bring; then take half of that. To have a varied travel wardrobe, yet keep your luggage light, we recommend you select a color scheme and pack color-coordinated clothing items that can be mixed to create different outfits. For more packing and luggage tips, you might want to visit www.travelite.org.

• Consider clothing designed for travel, sports, or camping: With modern fabrics, lightweight packing for comfort and protection through a wide range of weather is easy.

• Warm clothes & rain gear—needed year-round: Temperatures in Lapland are cold all year, plus the weather can be fickle. Regardless of your travel season, bring long sleeves, warm socks and pants, and items to layer up with—a heavy sweatshirt, fleece top or wool sweater, waterproof jacket with a hood, hat, and gloves. Waterproof boots and a heavy-duty parka are also recommended, except in peak summer. Dress in layers, so you can easily adjust to sudden weather shifts. For possible showers, take a folding travel umbrella and/or rain hat.

55 • Good walking shoes are critical. This program features many included tours that follow steep, unpaved or cobbled routes; and even an average day of light sightseeing or shopping can put great demands on your feet. If you prefer more ankle support, take light hiking boots. In case you get caught in the rain, we suggest you bring an extra pair of walking shoes, and rain boots or galoshes.

Style Hints • Pack casual clothes: Comfortable, informal apparel is acceptable at each of your destinations. At dinner, you will not need to don “dressy” clothing; men do not need jackets or ties and women do not need fancy dresses. You may want one or two “smart casual” outfits for the Welcome or Farewell Dinner, but it’s completely up to you.

Suggested Packing Lists We have included suggestions from Trip Experience Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

And don’t forget a reusable water bottle—you’ll need it to take advantage of any refills we offer as we are working to eliminate single-use plastic bottles on all of our trips.

Recommended Clothing ‰Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts to layer ‰Trousers, jeans, or skirts ‰Comfortable walking shoes and/or water resistant shoes ‰Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ‰Sleepwear ‰Socks and undergarments ‰A jacket or sweater, depending on the time of year

Essential Items ‰Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, shampoo/conditioner, shower cap, body soap, etc.

‰Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses and your prescription ‰Sunglasses with a neck strap ‰Compact umbrella

56 ‰Insect repellent (there are mosquitoes in the north) ‰Wide-brim sun hat or visor ‰Pocket-size tissues ‰Photocopies of passport, air ticket, credit cards ‰Rubber or waterproof shoes ‰Electrical plug adapter

Medicines ‰Your own prescription medicines ‰Vitamins ‰Cold remedies: Sudafed/Dristan ‰Pain relievers: Ibuprofen/naproxen/aspirin ‰Laxatives: Senokot/Ex-Lax ‰Stomach upset: Pepto-Bismol/Mylanta ‰Anti-diarrheal: Imodium ‰Band-Aids, Moleskin foot pads ‰Antibiotics: Neosporin/Bacitracin ‰Motion sickness medication

Optional Gear ‰Hand-wash laundry soap (Woolite), clothespins/travel clothesline/stopper ‰Reading materials ‰Travel journal/notepad ‰Addresses for postcards ‰Photos, small gift for Home-Hosted visit ‰Phrase book

57 ‰Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates ‰Wash cloths ‰Travel-size hair dryer: Many hotels will provide hair dryers, but not all. If a hair dryer is essential to you consider a travel-size version.

Home-Hosted Visits It is customary, though not necessary, to return your hosts’ generosity with a small gift. If you do bring a gift, we recommend that you bring something the whole family can enjoy, or something that represents your region, state, or hometown. Get creative and keep it small—peach jelly from Georgia, maple sugar candy from New England, orange blossom soap from California; something that can be used or used up is best. When choosing a gift, be certain to consider the local culture as well. For example, we do not recommend alcohol in Muslim countries because it is forbidden in Islam, and your hosts may be religious. Not all of our adventures include a home-hosted visit; please check your final itinerary before you depart.

Electricity Abroad When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

Voltage Electricity in Scandinavia, Estonia, Latvia, and Russia is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Although you’ll only need one adapter on this trip (Type C plugs work in Type F receptacles), it may be easier to purchase an all- in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

58 Note that a C plug will fit into an E or F socket.

Finland: C and F

Norway: C and F

Denmark: C and F

Estonia: C and F

Latvia: C and F

Russia: C and F

Type C Type E Type F

59 CLIMATE & AVERAGE TEMPERATURES

Svolvaer, Norway: Svolvaer has a subpolar climate—think long, cold, dark winters and very cool summers. Because of its northern location, the sun does not rise in December and January (polar night) and doesn’t set in June and July (midnight sun). The town gets over 28 inches of precipitation a year, both rain and snow. The mildest season is June through August, but even then it will be chilly, with highs only in the upper 50s. Spring and fall are generally in the 30-40 degree range, and in winter, the temperatures stay below freezing all day.

Oslo, Norway: Although well into the northern latitudes, Oslo’s climate is fairly temperate thanks to warm air being wafted across the Atlantic from the Gulf Stream. Summer weather in Oslo is mild and pleasant, with frequent hot spells, and plenty of long sunny days. In winter temperatures hover just above or below freezing. Snow is plentiful in winter, and rainfall is spread across the year, the rainiest month being August.

Copenhagen, Denmark: The weather in Copenhagen is mild through all the four seasons—with highs usually in the 60s and lows usually in the 50s—although temperatures in winter can drop down into the 30s and 40s. On the other end of the scale, summertime highs rarely go above 80 °F despite the occasional heat wave. Rainfall is moderate too, but spread throughout the year, so showers are possible in any season. Grey skies are the norm rather than the exception in Copenhagen.

Riga, Latvia: Summers in Riga tend to be short and cool with cloud cover; highs are generally in the 60s or 70s in July, but can sometimes go up to the 80s. Winters are usually dark and cold, with heavy snowfall from mid-December to mid-March. The city is overcast for roughly 40 percent of the year.

Tallinn, Estonia: The climate in northerly Tallinn is tempered by its location on the Baltic Sea. In summer, the city gets cooling sea breezes; in winter the same sea air keeps the snowfall in check. That’s not to say that Tallinn doesn’t get snow—a couple feet a year—but it’s considerably less than in nearby Finland or Russia. Spring and fall bring mild temperatures but can also feature sea fog and/or sudden rain. In summer, high temperatures rarely top the low 80s.

St. Petersburg, Russia: The weather in St. Petersburg is similar to that of its neighbors, Helsinki and Tallinn. Summer is often comfortably warm and bright, but hot spells also occur, as do afternoon rain showers. By the middle of August, autumn has arrived and by October, the temperatures usually have dropped to the 50s and 40s, and a crispness has entered the air or there may even be snow. The climate in St. Petersburg is varied, and quick to change from sun to rain to wind—even within the space of one day. (Our regional office suggests wearing layers and bringing an umbrella, just in case.)

Scandinavia Mid May to August: During late spring and summer, temperatures can be surprisingly high, comparable to Maine or Vermont; and the sea is generally much warmer than you might expect, largely as a result of the Gulf Stream and the shallowness of the Baltic. The low humidity, too,

60 makes it feel warmer than temperatures may indicate. If you are traveling at this time of year, you’re likely to encounter comfortably warm days and enjoy gloriously long hours of sun during your travels. The Midnight Sun will be shining over the northern parts (above the Arctic Circle) of Finland, Norway, and Sweden from mid May to the end of July. However, you should also be prepared for variable weather and temperature drops. The climate and weather along coastlines, in particular, is very much influenced by fluctuations in the sea’s condition and is changeable throughout the year. Winds, rain, and clouds are common occurrences, though extended spells of fine settled weather are also likely.

April to mid May/September to October: During early spring and autumn, the weather can turn from warm, sunny, and mild to rainy, misty, and miserable within an hour or so. Be prepared for intermittent spells of wet, cloudy weather. Autumn comes early in this region of the world; summer typically ends at the close of August, and peak fall foliage is in September. If you travel on the shoulder season, come prepared for snow and very cold weather.

Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH HELSINKI, FINLAND INARI, FINLAND

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall Humidity (avg) with Rainfall JAN 26 to 16 88 to 87 16 18 to 6 85 6 FEB 27 to 15 89 to 82 11 22 to 10 83 4 MAR 34 to 23 89 to 74 12 27 to 13 77 6 APR 45 to 31 87 to 59 13 31 to 19 71 6 MAY 59 to 41 84 to 51 14 41 to 30 68 20 JUN 66 to 49 85 to 55 17 55 to 42 66 20 JUL 70 to 53 90 to 59 15 58 to 45 68 18 AUG 66 to 51 93 to 66 17 56 to 45 80 26 SEP 56 to 43 93 to 72 15 48 to 37 82 19 OCT 46 to 36 91 to 80 20 31 to 22 87 6 NOV 36 to 28 90 to 88 17 21 to 9 89 7 DEC 30 to 20 89 to 88 16 23 to 12 86 3

61 MONTH SVOLVAER, NORWAY OSLO, NORWAY

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (avg) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 34 to 26 80 14 31 to 20 86 to 80 10 FEB 33 to 24 80 11 32 to 19 88 to 74 9 MAR 34 to 26 77 11 39 to 27 86 to 65 13 APR 36 to 30 78 12 49 to 34 70 to 52 15 MAY 41 to 35 78 16 62 to 45 71 to 48 18 JUN 50 to 44 82 19 68 to 52 71 to 50 19 JUL 58 to 49 76 12 71 to 55 73 to 52 20 AUG 58 to 51 81 17 69 to 53 80 to 54 20 SEP 50 to 43 74 20 60 to 45 83 to 58 20 OCT 41 to 34 72 18 49 to 38 86 to 69 19 NOV 34 to 26 75 8 39 to 29 86 to 78 15 DEC 35 to 28 81 14 32 to 22 86 to 82 10

MONTH BERGEN, NORWAY COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 39 to 31 82 to 79 21 37 to 30 89 to 85 18 FEB 39 to 31 82 to 72 16 36 to 28 89 to 80 15 MAR 43 to 34 82 to 68 20 41 to 32 89 to 74 15 APR 48 to 37 82 to 62 19 49 to 36 84 to 63 15 MAY 57 to 45 80 to 60 20 60 to 45 76 to 57 14 JUN 62 to 50 82 to 63 19 66 to 52 76 to 59 16 JUL 64 to 53 85 to 66 21 69 to 55 78 to 60 15 AUG 64 to 53 87 to 69 22 69 to 54 82 to 60 16 SEP 58 to 48 85 to 70 24 61 to 50 86 to 67 15 OCT 52 to 44 82 to 72 25 53 to 44 87 to 76 19 NOV 44 to 37 82 to 78 23 44 to 37 87 to 82 19 DEC 41 to 33 83 to 81 22 39 to 32 88 to 85 18

62 MONTH RIGA, LATVIA TALLINN, ESTONIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 29 to 22 87 to 83 1.3 30 to 20 87 to 85 2.0 FEB 29 to 21 86 to 78 0.9 29 to 19 87 to 80 1.3 MAR 37 to 28 87 to 70 1.0 36 to 24 88 to 73 1.4 APR 48 to 35 86 to 61 1.4 47 to 32 86 to 64 1.4 MAY 60 to 45 83 to 56 1.7 59 to 41 84 to 55 1.5 JUN 66 to 52 88 to 61 2.3 66 to 50 87 to 59 2.4 JUL 69 to 56 90 to 65 2.8 70 to 54 91 to 63 3.0 AUG 68 to 55 91 to 65 2.7 68 to 53 92 to 67 3.3 SEP 59 to 48 90 to 69 2.6 58 to 45 92 to 72 3.0 OCT 50 to 41 88 to 74 2.1 48 to 38 89 to 76 3.0 NOV 39 to 33 88 to 83 2.0 38 to 30 89 to 85 2.7 DEC 32 to 25 88 to 85 1.5 33 to 24 88 to 86 2.4

MONTH ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 24 to 15 86 to 83 11 FEB 25 to 16 86 to 79 7 MAR 34 to 24 85 to 70 11 APR 46 to 33 83 to 59 12 MAY 60 to 44 80 to 51 14 JUN 66 to 52 82 to 57 16 JUL 70 to 56 87 to 61 16 AUG 66 to 54 90 to 64 15 SEP 56 to 45 90 to 69 16 OCT 45 to 37 87 to 75 20 NOV 35 to 28 87 to 83 14 DEC 28 to 20 87 to 85 10

63 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE

O.A.T. Trip Experience Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Experience Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Experience Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Experience Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

Scandinavian and Sami Culture Does Scandinavia even have a common culture? And how does it differ from Nordic culture? First off, Scandinavia refers to the lands originally occupied by the Vikings—which would be Norway, Sweden and Denmark. When referring to Nordic countries, it would be Norway, Sweden and Denmark, with Finland and Iceland added to the mix. While these northern lands differ in language and geography, their shared history and religion have given rise to several cultural similarities.

A belief that Scandinavians are sullen or aloof, however, is one of the most common cultural misunderstandings. If you are unable to engage in a conversation with a local, you might interpret it as someone being standoffish or even rude. But a Scandinavian would perceive it as being polite by not bothering a stranger with small talk. Broadly speaking, Scandinavians place a high value on being polite and do not wish to speak to anyone unnecessarily or even ask for help unless it’s absolutely necessary.

A common thread woven throughout Scandinavian culture may be its focus on the wellbeing of the group rather than of the individual. While Americans admire even the most extreme efforts of individuals to achieve success, Scandinavians strive for moderation—in themselves, the community, and the workplace—to achieve a sense of balance. There are reasons why they always make the lists of the “happiest people on earth.” Scandinavians attribute it to their focus on life/ work balance—while they do pay high taxes, the generous social programs they get in return take all the fear out of losing their livelihood or growing broke. This allows them to focus on enjoying life. Scandinavia’s concern for group wellbeing expresses itself in a variety of ways. The Danes have the centuries-old concept of “hygge,” which is a general state of mind that embraces life. The Finns have their saunas, whose bonding rituals are intertwined in national culture. And the Swedes consider “fika,” a type of mandatory coffee hour, to be an essential part of each day in order to bond with friends and colleagues.

Workplace culture is far less stressful in Scandinavian countries, too. Everyone expects everyone else to perform to the same standard. Since it’s a common practice among Scandinavians to say what they mean, no one has to search for hidden meanings. And dealing with fewer office politics makes for a far more relaxed and comfortable workplace environment. Scandinavian culture discourages those seen as aiming too high or being too ambitious. In an attempt to make society

64 as homogenous as possible, measures like private schools using the same curriculum as public schools are put in place to ensure equal opportunities for all. And Scandinavians believe that wealth should have no bearing on how you are treated.

Further north in the Lapland region, the Sami people continue to keep their 9,000-year-old traditions alive into the modern age. They are the only indigenous people in the European Union, with a population of around 80,000. They inhabit the region around the Arctic Circle across Finland, Norway, Russia, and Sweden. Collectively these regions are termed Sami.

Traditionally, most Sami people have supported themselves through fishing, livestock farming, hunting, and reindeer herding. Out of the traditional Sami livelihoods, reindeer herding still functions as one of the important cornerstones of the Sami culture by offering a space for using Sami language, material for traditional clothing and other Sami handicrafts, and is the base of their food culture.

The Sami people also embody a great spirit of resiliency in the face of adversity. Beyond cold winters, they have endured attempts by the Norwegian and Finnish governments to suppress their heritage and cultural traditions, from forbidding joik—the folk music of the Sami—from being used in public schools in the 1950s, to bans on speaking Sami languages (of which there are nine) in the 1990s. Through hard work and perseverance, the Sami have preserved many of their cultural traditions and joik has actually regained some popularity in recent years. Fans of Disney’s Frozen may recognize the Nordic influences in the film’s opening song, composed by a Norwegian musician with Sami roots.

But one thing that Scandinavians and the Sami people have in common is their love of the outdoors. Sami traditions are rooted in their connection to nature and the Scandinavian people take full advantage of the breathtaking beauty of their landscapes by escaping into nature and enjoying the solitude at every opportunity. Come to think of it, no wonder they’re so happy.

Laundry Service Laundry service is available through your hotels, although it is expensive. Your Trip Experience Leader will help you make arrangements for these services if you need them.

Smoking/Non-Smoking Policy In both Norway and Finland smoking is prohibited in public areas and restaurants.

Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in Europe is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Consent is especially important if you want to take a photo of a child or minor—ask their parent for permission first. To get a great portrait, show interest in your subject and try to have a bit of social interaction to put them at ease. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK.

65 Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.

Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Most hotels will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set your own personal number). Please utilize them.

Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your wallet or money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

Hotels With an emphasis on minimalism and functional design, you’ll discover that hotel rooms in this region are traditionally much smaller than in the United States, and tend to feature a sleek, modern look. Rooms are comfortable, clean, and well-equipped, but you should expect to experience how locals make use of limited space, which may mean that the bathrooms are smaller, or the beds are closer together, than you’d find at home.

Customer Service That the Soviet era left its mark on Russia (and the neighboring Baltics) is understandable and expected. But what might surprise you is its effect on customer service standards, even today. A famous story illustrates this influence: when the first McDonald’s opened in Moscow, the new employees were given extensive customer service training, to which one of the puzzled newcomers asked “Why do we have to be so nice to the customers? After all, we have the hamburgers and they don’t!”

This is not to say that you won’t experience genuine kindness and good service while in this region, but rather that you should be prepared—service in restaurants and shops may not be what you expect.

Finnish Cuisine Finnish cuisine forgoes the fancy for simple, hearty, and comforting. The emphasis is on natural ingredients and fresh local produce, with fish and meat also playing a prominent role traditional Finnish dishes—including pork, beef, elk and reindeer. The country is also known for its fresh- picked mushrooms and berries, such as bilberries and lingonberries, used in cooking and baking. Here are some dishes to try:

66 • Ruisleopä: Part of the Finnish diet for thousands of years, ruisleipä is a dense and dark rye bread using sourdough and Finnish yeast that can be enjoyed at any time of day. Varieties of this healthy and hearty staple include reikäleipa, meaning “bread with a hole,” jälkiuunileipä, a harder bread baked at a low temperature, and several dry and flat versions (like the popular Finn Crisps).

• Karjalanpiirakka: Originally from the Karelia region of eastern Finland, this tasty pastry with a rye crust is traditionally filled with rice porridge and topped with egg butter. Karjalanpiirakka are favorites for breakfast or anytime as a snack.

• Kalakukko: This fish pie from the Finnish region of Savonia is traditionally prepared using rye flour and filled with a small herring-like fish combined with a little pork and bacon.

• Graavilohi: A true Finn favorite, graavilohi is a Nordic specialty made from raw salmon cured in salt, sugar, and dill. Thinly sliced, it’s often served as an appetizer with a dill sauce on bread or with boiled potatoes.

• Mustikkapiirakka: When you’re looking for something sweet and delicious in the summer months, go for the “blueberry pie”—although it’s actually made bilberries, the healthier Nordic cousin of blueberries.

• Salmiakki: You could also soothe your sweet tooth with some salmiakki, or salty licorice. This Finland favorite of black licorice with ammonium chloride added to give it a salty sourness, might be an acquired taste for some.

Norwegian Cuisine Most modern Norwegian households eat much as we do in the States, enjoying simple but easy to prepare traditional favorites; the occasional ethnic treat like tacos or Asian stir-fry; or even a fast-food meal like the phenomenally popular Grandiosa, Norway’s best-selling frozen pizza.

And in case you haven’t heard, since the early 2000s, the Scandinavian (and worldwide) restaurant scene has been utterly transformed by the rise of New Nordic cuisine, a cooking style that stresses sustainability, freshness, and extremely local and seasonal ingredients. In practice, that means celebrating unique flavors that might previously have been overlooked. So yes, you might find carefully composed plates of grilled duck hearts on a bed of moss, but you’ll also find creative reinterpretations of traditional Nordic classics, like these:

With 63,000 miles of coastline, Norway is a seafood lover’s heaven. Start with Norwegian salmon, often served smoked (as in røkelaks), or cured with sugar and salt (gravlax) and served with a dollop of creamy dill sauce. As you travel north you won’t want to miss the legendary red king crab, pulled fresh from arctic waters. Sursild is herring that has been pickled, just one of the many methods used to preserve fish. Sometimes fish is dried and salted, as in klippfisk, a pressed cod that can be eaten on its own or added to dishes like plukkfisk, where it is folded into mashed potatoes.

67 Rakfisk is trout that is covered with spruce branches and fermented in barrels. The smell is pungent, but the taste is not. Even so, an icy glass of aquavit (a strong spirit flavored with caraway or dill) will help it go down. You might also want to have aquavit on hand for lutefisk, dried cod that’s preserved in lye, and then triple washed and steamed (all of the caustic lye is gone by the time you’re served it). If you’re from Minnesota or Wisconsin, you may have seen this at your state fair or in restaurants, so you already know it’s better with butter or sauce. In Norway, it is often paired with bacon, mashed peas, boiled potatoes and golden syrup.

If you like game, consider finnbiff, sautéed reindeer stew. Or stick to the national dish, fårikål, a boiled dinner of mutton or lamb, whole black pepper, cabbage, and potatoes. Pinnekjøtt is a Christmas Eve classic, a hearty meal of salted, air-dried sheep ribs. They are rehydrated by steaming them over birch sticks, and eaten with sweet mashed rutabaga. The classic Norwegian comfort food is kjøttkake (or kjøttballer), balls of minced beef seasoned with onions, nutmeg and ginger, then pan fried and simmered in gravy. (Yes, they are virtually the same as Swedish meatballs, but you won’t make Norwegian friends if you call them that.)

You will make friends if you’re willing to share your lefse, crepe-like flatbreads that are slathered with butter, sugar, and maybe cinnamon, then rolled up or folded for eating on the go. For a crispier sweet snack, try krumkake, a delicate, waffle-like cookie, shaped like an ice cream cone and filled with cream or fruit.

One of the most ubiquitous fruits is lingonberry, which tastes similar to cranberries and is used in compotes, juices, and preserves. As a jam, it’s a great accompaniment to brunost, a family of brown goat’s milk cheeses (like gjetost) that have the consistency (and a little of the sweetness) of fudge. Or just go straight to dessert heaven and order some fluffy trollkrem—a meringue of lingonberries whipped with sugar, vanilla, and egg whites.

Danish Cuisine Twenty years ago one might’ve described Danish food as peasant cooking—hearty, stick-to- your-ribs Viking fare that would get you through a long day of farming, fishing, or raiding. Today, Denmark is the epicenter of the New Nordic cuisine, a movement begun by Danish chefs René Redzepi and Claus Meyer, who helmed Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant (considered the world’s best) and influenced chefs everywhere with their philosophy that celebrates sustainable, locavore, and seasonal ingredients—many of which are foraged and were previously forgotten. It has inspired many cooks to revisit and refine some of the classics of Danish cuisine, like these:

Perhaps the best-known Danish delights are smørrebrød—open-faced sandwiches built on a base of buttered rugbrød, a dense, dark rye bread. These are not random sandwiches, they are artfully composed, so the dish is colorful and the garnishes are complementary. Toppings might include syltede sild (pickled herring) with micro greens; shrimp and egg with dill; or roast beef with pickles, onions, and horseradish. A favorite is dyrlægens natmad, which translates as “veterinarian’s midnight snack” and includes corned beef, sky (Danish meat aspic), and leverpostej (liver pâté) topped with slivered red onions, sprouts, and parsley or dill.

68 The national dish is stegt flæsk, crispy pork belly chunks served with boiled potatoes and parsley sauce. So many Danes have a “burning love” for bacon, they named a dish after this affliction, brændende kærlighed, which is mashed potatoes topped with oven-roasted cubes of bacon, caramelized onions, and butter. Another pork favorite is brunkål, brown cabbage braised with sugar till it’s caramelized, then roasted with pork shanks, and served with pickled cucumber.

For a dish that looks as impressive as it tastes, there’s forloren hare, a Danish meatloaf made with ground pork, leeks, and egg. Bacon strips are woven around the loaf, which is then baked till it looks like an elegant brown basket. On the flip side there’s the humble røde pølser, which translates as “red sausage” and is a Danish hot dog. They are sold from pølsevogen (hot dog wagons) all over, and come with toppings like fried onions, pickles, and a variety of condiments.

Not all protein is pork. Try rødspættefilet, a filet of plaice (a mild white fish) that is breaded and fried. It can be eaten as an entrée, or as the stjerneskud (“shooting star”) of a smørrebrød topped with shrimp, lettuce and caviar from the Limfjord. Tarteletter are flaky pastry tartlets filled with chicken and asparagus in a creamy béchamel sauce. Roast duck or andesteg is a holiday favorite, stuffed with apples and prunes, then roasted until golden-brown and served with a sauce made with reserved duck fat, whiskey, and wine.

For something sweet to go with your coffee (bica), order a Danish but call it by its proper name, wienerbrød, which means “Vienna bread” and is a more accurate reflection of its provenance. Even though Danes did not invent them, they love these flaky, croissant-like glazed pastries filled with cream or fruit. They also love risalamande, a cold rice pudding topped with hot cherries, with an almond hidden in the custard. If you order frugtsalat, be your fruit salad may be turbo-charged with bits of chocolate and marzipan, and maybe topped with whipped cream.

Then there’s the cake that literally towers above them all, kransekake. It’s a cone of concentric almond cake rings bound together with a white icing glaze, and sometimes decorated with berries or nuts. They are served at festive occasions (especially New Year’s), and the center of the tower might hold candies, chocolates, and even champagne or wine bottles.

Baltic Cuisine The cuisines of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania are all rooted in the region’s shared climate and coastal and agricultural resources—not to mention the influences of their common invaders. Baltic food is very hearty, but can also be very delicately seasoned. Meat figures prominently, as do potatoes, dark rye bread, and all manner of pickled vegetables. For the dishes below, while some ingredients may vary from country to country, often the difference is in name only.

Estonian Specialties Estonia capitalizes on its coastal bounty with kiluvõileib—a ubiquitous sandwich of smoked sprats, buttered dark rye bread, hard-boiled egg and topped with dill or scallions. It may not look appetizing, but it sure is tasty—as is the national dish, verivorst, a blood sausage accented with barley, onions, allspice, and marjoram. Mulgipuder is made from mashed potatoes and groats

69 mixed with lots of butter and a bacon-based sauce. Estonians love aspics, which are jellied meat (or seafood) and vegetable loaves, sliced and served on dark bread. Rosolje is a delicious Estonian potato and beet salad with chopped onions, pickles, and a creamy mustard dressing.

For dessert, try vastlakukkel, a cream puff that was once reserved as a pre-Lenten delicacy, but is now happily indulged in year round. In a hurry? Grab a kohuke, a candy bar of sweet cheese curd covered with caramel or chocolate. By the way, Estonia is famous for chocolate, especially the Kalev brand, the oldest in the country. Need more sweets? Try Vana Tallinn, a rum-based liqueur served in coffee or over crushed ice or ice cream. For something less alcoholic, kvass tastes like a cross between beer and soda, and is made from fermented dark rye bread.

Latvian Specialties Latvia has a national specialty called piradziņi that looks like a plain yeast roll—until you bite into it and find that it is filled with onions, minced meat, bacon, cabbage, or creamy cheese. Leave room for karbonade, a breaded and fried pork schnitzel with a creamy mushroom sauce. You might also try rasol, a potato and beet salad with layers of meat or fish (typically herring), hard- boiled eggs, and other vegetables, bound with mayonnaise and sour cream.

End your meal with maizes zupa, a rye bread pudding made with apples, cinnamon, raisins, plums, cranberries, and whipped cream. With all that food you might need a digestif, so try Black Balsam, a vodka liqueur made with pepper, ginger, linden flower, raspberry, and bilberry.

Russian Cuisine Russian cuisine is an amalgam of peasant food and luxurious ingredients; native foodstuffs prepared according to techniques introduced by foreign chefs; and contributions made by minority groups such as Jews, Tatars, and Georgians. Much of this has to do with the dramatic socio-political changes that affected not just the availability of certain foods, but attitudes about it. So you have Old Russian cuisine, Moscow cuisine, Soviet cuisine, modern cuisine and more.

One of the best ways to get acquainted with a variety of Russian delicacies is zakuski, the lavish spread of appetizers meant to accompany icy fingers of Russian vodka. It arose as a way to welcome guests whose arrival times could not be predicted. While the main meal was prepared, zakuski would help to mitigate the effects of the strong alcohol.

Zakuski choices will usually include caviar; an array of charcuterie meats; and smoked salmon, sturgeon (balyk) or whitefish. Blini are the crepe-like buckwheat pancakes that you can wrap all your zakuski choices in. During the pre-Lenten festival called Maslenitsa, blini are the star attraction. Another staple is selyodka pod shuba, which literally means “herring under fur coat.” It’s a platter of herring smothered with onions, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, shredded carrots, beets, and mayonnaise. Your table will also feature a huge array of pickled vegetables (from cucumbers to mushrooms to tomatoes and more); plus assorted cheeses and breads.

70 A zakuski favorite that has made its way around the world is Olivier salad, aka Russian salad. It was invented in the 1860s by a Belgian chef, Lucien Olivier, at The Hermitage, a popular Moscow restaurant. The original recipe included caviar, grouse, smoked duck, crawfish, veal tongue, and a secret sauce. Today’s version replaces the exotic fare with potatoes, carrots, eggs, peas, pickles, and chicken or beef in a mayonnaise sauce. It is a must on New Year’s Eve.

Russian pirozhki are pan-fried or oven-baked turnovers stuffed with just about anything: meat, fish, egg, potato, cabbage, cottage cheese, or jam. You might also find pelmeni, which are dumplings that can be filled with beef lamb, pork, or chicken. (A vegetarian version called vareniki can be filled with potatoes, mushrooms, cabbage, sweet cottage cheese or cherries.)

Russians love soup and there are dozens of delicious varieties. Try rassolnik, chicken soup with pickles; salanka meat soup with olives and sausages; or uha (fish soup.) The king of Russian soups is borscht, a red beet soup that may also include meat, potatoes, carrots, or tomatoes. It’s usually served with dill and sour cream, and can be enjoyed hot or cold.

As for main courses, one internationally loved Russian dish is Beef Stroganoff. Named after a 19th century count, it is made with beef, onions, and mushrooms, sautéed in white wine and sour cream. Another dish with a complicated provenance is Chicken Kiev. It is neither Kievan nor even Ukrainian, and was created by a French chef in St. Petersburg or Moscow. It was popular with sophisticated diners in postwar New York and Chicago, and soon the Soviets offered it in state- owned hotels and restaurants. Pedigree aside, the dish is a breaded chicken cutlet stuffed with a roll of seasoned butter and fried. If done correctly, the butter does not completely melt.

For dessert try medovik, a super sweet honey cake made with sour cream, custard and dried fruit, or buttercream and walnuts. Ptichye Moloko (“bird’s milk”) is a cake or candy made with marshmallow coated in chocolate. Another marshmallow treat is zefir, a puffy shell filled with puréed apples, berries or peaches.

Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

71 Crafts & Souvenirs

Finland Handicrafts, jewelry, hand-woven ryijy rugs, furniture, glassware, ceramics, furs, and textiles are some of the world-renowned specialties.

Norway Popular items include trolls, jewelry, woolen items, glass, wood and leather goods, local brews, furniture, carpets, and other decor.

Denmark A showcase for world-famous Danish design and craftsmanship, Copenhagen seems to have been designed with shoppers in mind. The best buys are such luxury items as crystal, porcelain, silver, and furs. Look for offers and sales (tilbud or udsalg in Danish) and check antiques and secondhand shops for classics at cut-rate prices.

VAT: Although prices are inflated by a hefty 25% Value-Added Tax (Danes call it MOMS), non-European Union citizens can receive about an 18% refund. For more details and a list of all tax-free shops, ask at the tourist office for a copy of the Tax-Free Shopping Guide.

The Baltics Specialties of the Baltics include amber, CDs of traditional music, ceramics, knit goods, lace, leather-bound books, linen, local liquors such as Vana Tallinn and Black Balzam, silverware, and woodcarvings. You can also pick up candies, vodka, glass and woodwork, artwork, vintage items, and USSR-era knickknacks throughout the region in shops and at flea markets.

Russia Among the best buys in Russia are black caviar (sold in small sealed jars), the traditional Russian wooden nest of dolls (matryoshkas), hand-embroidered shirts and blouses, balalaikas, samovars, watches (Raketa brand and military watches), chess sets, pure wool scarves, lacquer boxes, hats, vodka, amber, malachite jewelry, porcelain and books. You’ll also find a variety of small Christmas and Easter gifts made by Russian craftsmen for sale throughout the year that make great unique presents for friends.

To bring back a little of Russia with you, you have some traditional items to choose from. The blue and white Russian porcelain Gzhel is used for vases, table settings, some delicate toys, and figurines. Nesting dolls are also widely available in St Petersburg, as well as Russian and Ukrainian style shirts with intricate embroidery. Palekh boxes (brightly colored and lacquered with native artwork) are on sale in better souvenir shops. Kiosks offer amber and silver jewelry, and some churches allow you to purchase Russian Orthodox religious items.

72 U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

73 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Finland

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 130,558 square miles

• Capital: Helsinki

• Geography: Finland is heavily forested and contains thousands of lakes, numerous rivers, and extensive areas of marshland. Except for a small highland region in the extreme northwest, the country is a lowland less than 600 feet above sea level.

• Languages: Finnish, Swedish

• Location: Finland is bordered to the north and west by Norway and Sweden, and to the east by Russia.

• Population: 5,518,371 (estimate)

• Religion: Lutheran 72%, Orthodox 1.1%, other 1.6%, unspecified 25.3%

• Time zones: Finland is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, seven hours ahead of EST.

National Holidays: Finland

In addition to the holidays listed below, 01/06 Epiphany Finland celebrates a number of national 05/01 May Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Midsummer. To find out if you 12/06 Independence Day will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 12/25 Christmas Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/26 St. Stephen’s Day

Finland: A Brief History While sharing many cultural traits with its Scandinavian neighbors, Finland’s linguistic and historic roots differ than those of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway—which share a common root language and Viking heritage. Finland’s early history began with settlements of nomadic Sami people, Tavastians, and others during the first millennium B.C. With Vikings choosing not to establish settlements here, Finland developed into an important center of trade during the Viking Age. But Finland’s powerful neighbors, Sweden and Russia, would battle for centuries over regional dominance. While Finland was able to preserve its language, culture, and traditions, Sweden would end up ruling it from the twelfth to the nineteenth centuries. And after that, Russia ruled Finland from 1809 to 1917.

74 After the 1917 Russian Revolution, Finland declared its independence. But the new state was immediately drawn into a civil war between the social classes—with Bolshevik-leaning “Reds” (factory and farm workers) supported by the new Soviet Union on one side, and the “Whites” (property owners), supported by Imperial Germany, on the other. The Whites emerged victorious and installed a puppet king. After the defeat of Germany in World War I, Germany’s influence disappeared and Finland became a republic, electing its first president in 1919. Relations remained tense between Finland and Soviet Union.

Finland’s role during World War II made perfect sense to the Finns, but it can make everyone else’s head spin. At the war’s outbreak, the Soviet Union attacked Finland, expecting a quick victory. Instead, the Finns fought way above their weight while holding the Soviet army back and humiliating Stalin. The Finns were eventually worn down and ended up ceding some border lands to Stalin, but they preserved their independence and gained the admiration of the world, who viewed it as a tiny democratic nation almost defeating an aggressive bully nation. Known as the “Winter War” of 1939/40, the Finns would then find themselves the “Continuation War,” which began when Germany invaded the USSR in June 1941. Looking at it more as choosing between the lesser of two evils, the Finns allied themselves with Germany—primarily to gain back the territory they had just lost. But the Red Army was much stronger now, and after Germany’s surrender at Stalingrad, Finland entered secret negotiations with Moscow to leave the war. A treaty between Finland and the Soviet Union in 1944 left Finland independent but included a demand that they immediately expel the 200,000 German troops in Finnish Lapland—which led to the “Lapland War,” Finland’s third stage of the war.

While Finland did ally with Hitler, they weren’t looked on as collaborators and refused demands to turn over Finnish Jews. Some say that Finland may have lost World War II, but they won the peace. Other countries bordering the Soviet Union weren’t so lucky, but Finland managed to maintain its autonomy, a democratic government, and market economy. It continued to walk a fine line between the two camps of the Cold War—refusing an American offer to participate in the Marshall plan, developing a trade relationship with the Soviet Union, yet all the while working toward becoming a member of the European Union.

As its war-ravaged agrarian economy transformed into technologically advanced market economy, Finland grew increasingly prosperous and stable. Membership in the EU became a reality in 1995. While the political systems in the Scandinavian neighbors of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden are constitutional monarchies, Finland is a republic with a president and parliament system—and on international surveys about nations with the lowest level of political corruption, Finland is often right at the top.

Norway

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 125,049 square miles

• Capital: Oslo

75 • Geography: Nearly 70% of Norway is uninhabitable and covered by mountains, glaciers, moors, and rivers. It has a 1,700-mile coastline on the North Atlantic, raggedly indented with inlets, fjords, peninsulas, and islands. Because the coast is so well sheltered, and most of the country’s land area is so rocky and mountainous, Norwegians have taken to the sea since prehistoric times.

• Languages: Two official forms of Norwegian: Bokmal and Nynorsk

• Location: The Kingdom of Norway stretches along the western edge of the Scandinavian Peninsula, bordering Sweden, Finland, and Russia to the east. It extends about 1,100 miles from the North Sea to more than 300 miles above the Arctic Circle. That makes it the farthest north of any European country.

• Population: 5,320,045 (estimate)

• Religion: Church of Norway (Lutheran) 71.5%, other Christian 3.9%, Muslim 2.8%, Roman Catholic 2.8%, other 2.4%, unspecified 7.5%

• Time zone: Norway is 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 6 hours ahead of Eastern Time. Daylight Saving Time is in effect in Norway from the end of March until the end of September.

National Holidays: Norway

In addition to the holidays listed below, 01/01 New Year’s Day Norway celebrates a number of national 05/01 May Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Ascension Day. To find out if you 05/17 Constitution Day will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 12/25 Christmas Day

12/26 Boxing Day

Norway: A Brief History In spite of its extreme geography and climate, Norway has been inhabited for about 10,000 years, starting when the last great ice sheets retreated. Migrations of the Nøstvet-Økser people of central Europe began arriving along the southern Norwegian coast, and by 5,000 BC, agricultural settlements appeared around the Oslofjord, and spread across southern Norway, then migrating north. The real story of Norway begins with the Vikings, dauntless seafarers who emerged from southern Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. Sailing their advanced longboats, they developed new trade routes from Newfoundland to Russia to Baghdad and beyond. The Viking Age was short, spanning about 300 years starting in 793.

Throughout history, the Vikings have been romanticized and vilified. Today, archeologists have constructed a more balanced picture. The Vikings certainly terrorized, murdered, and enslaved many people they overran; but they also often assimilated with them, rarely destroyed the native

76 cultures, expanded the flow of goods and ideas, and left progressive legal codes. It can be argued that they were no more ruthless than their contemporaries, just more successful. Their legacy includes the first unification of Norway in 872; and the adoption of Christianity.

After 1066, a declining Norway became increasingly beholden to Sweden, Denmark, and the merchant cities of the Hanseatic League. In 1349, the Black Death killed more than 50% of the population. Norway entered a union with Denmark and for the next 200 years, most of its commerce was taken over by the Hanseatic League. Various disputes between the Danish Union and Sweden dragged Norway into the Seven Years War (1563–70), followed by the Kalmar War (1611–14). Up until 1720, Norway lost a good portion of its territory to Sweden.

Nationalist sentiments began growing in Norway during the waning years of the Napoleonic Wars, when the kingdom of Denmark-Norway and Sweden were once again on opposing sides. By the end of 1814, Norway was a constitutional monarchy in a union with Sweden. But while Norway had adopted its own constitution and chosen its own king, it would only achieve full independence after severing ties with Sweden as a result of a popular referendum in 1905.

Norway remained neutral during World War I, and its economy and confidence grew with the development of industry, hydroelectric power, and exports; and the enfranchisement of women. But when Norway stated its neutrality during World War II, Germany invaded anyway and occupied Norway from 1940 until the end of the war. The Norwegian Resistance was strong, and the Germans took revenge up until the end, retreating with a scorched earth policy that obliterated farms, forests, and entire towns. Norway joined NATO 1949 and became a founder member of the United Nations. Still, it remained one of Europe’s poorest nations.

This changed when crude oil was discovered here in 1969. The standard of living and per capita wealth rose dramatically, and the windfalls (coupled with high taxes) enabled the government to develop one of the world’s most comprehensive social welfare systems. Citizens enjoy free medical care; free higher education; generous family leave; childcare and eldercare supports; generous pensions; and more. Norway is arguably Europe’s most egalitarian social democracy.

Norway has a strong presence on the international stage; has participated in peacekeeping missions; and plays a leading role in refugee assistance. But Norway has remained wary of joining the European Union. Erna Solberg became the nation’s first female Prime Minister in 2013, and was re-elected in 2017. She heads a center-right coalition government and has shown a commitment to global solutions for development, and conflict resolution.

Denmark

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 16,640 square miles

• Capital: Copenhagen

• Government: Constitutional monarchy

77 • Geography: Denmark is the smallest of the Scandinavian countries (it’s about half the size of Maine). The country occupies the Jutland peninsula, a lowland area, where the highest elevation is only 565 feet above sea level. But that doesn’t mean that the country is entirely flat. Most of its terrain consists of folds, undulations, small, often steep hills, and long, low rises. There are also forests, rivers, lakes, and beaches, many of which are excellent for swimming, though the water may be too cold for some people.

• Languages: Danish, Faeroese, Greenlandic (an Inuit dialect), and a small German- speaking minority

• Location: Denmark consists of the peninsula of Jutland and a group of islands at the entrance to the Baltic Sea, between Sweden and Germany. The two largest islands are Sjaelland, site of Copenhagen, and Fyn. Denmark also has two self-governing dependencies—Greenland and the Faeroe Islands.

• Population: 5,605,948 (estimate)

• Religion: Evangelical Lutheran 76%, Muslim 4%, other 16%

• Time zone: Denmark is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, six hours ahead of Eastern Time. Daylight Saving Time is in effect in Denmark from the end of March until the end of September.

National Holidays: Denmark

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 May Day/Labor Day Denmark celebrates a number of national 05/05 Liberation Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Ascension Day. To find out if you 06/05 Constitution Day will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 12/25 Christmas Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/26 2nd Christmas Day

Denmark: A Brief History About 10,000 years ago, the glacial ice sheets that covered northern Europe began to retreat, attracting huge herds of reindeer. These in turn attracted hunter-gatherers who arrived from southern and eastern Europe. As the climate further warmed, the reindeer migrated north, but the early Danes remained in this fertile land, establishing farming communities by 3000 BC.

By 1800 BC, these proto-Danes were trading weapons, jewelry, amber and furs with people as far away as Rome. They buried their dead in peat bogs and many of those bodies have been remarkably preserved. The first people identified as Danes came from Sweden around 500 AD. They had a written system of communication based on runes. (The symbol we now use for bluetooth devices is based on the runic signature of Harald Bluetooth, or Harald I, the Danish Viking who became king around 900 AD.)

78 The Viking Age began in 793 AD with the raid on Lindisfarne, an English island monastery. Sporadic raids had likely occurred before this, by Vikings from Sweden, Norway, and Denmark. They were not unified and the Danish Vikings primarily raided northeastern England, which at the time was a collection of warring Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. Danish Vikings had established a large settlement in Kent by 850 AD, and as more Danish colonists arrived, all of northeastern England fell under their control. The exception was Wessex, which reached an agreement with the Danes granting Wessex sovereignty, while the rest of the region was ruled as the Danelaw.

The Danish King Harald Bluetooth converted to Christianity in 965 AD, possibly to appease the Franks at Denmark’s door. Harald forcibly established the new religion, and elevated the status of the Christian clergy. But Christianity did not bring peace. The Danes continued to fight to maintain and expand their territory, conquering parts of Germany and Estonia. After the Viking Age ended in 1066, Denmark’s power declined. In 1397, the Union of Kalmar united Denmark, Sweden, and Norway under a single monarch, with Denmark as the dominant power.

Beginning in the 16th century, Denmark and Sweden began a lengthy rivalry. In 1658, Sweden took the Danish regions of Skåne, Halland and Blekinge, which are still Sweden’s southernmost provinces. In the ensuing century, Denmark suffered more defeats: in 1814, it had to cede Norway to Sweden. But there were important domestic gains. . . . As 19th-century Europe was swept by nationalist fervor and revolution, Denmark had already abolished serfdom and established universal public education. By the 1830s, social and agricultural reforms had boosted the economy; there was a peasant landowner class; and a free press. In 1849, a new constitution created a legislative democracy, ending the monarchy’s previous absolute power.

Denmark remained neutral during World War I, and tried to do the same during World War II. It signed a non-aggression pact with the Third Reich. But Germany invaded in 1940, threatening to bomb Copenhagen. With only a small military, the Danish government yielded. The Nazis at first allowed the Danes some autonomy. But when it began pressuring officials to comply with anti- Semitic policies, the Danish government resigned in protest. The Nazis took over in earnest, and the resistance movement grew. Tipped off by a Nazi diplomat that Germany was about to deport Denmark’s Jews to concentration camps, the Resistance and many citizens managed to evacuate 7,220 of Denmark’s 7,800 Jews to safety in Sweden.

After Germany’s defeat, Denmark joined the United Nations in 1945, and became a founding member of NATO in 1949. The latter half of the 20th century saw Denmark’s emergence as a prosperous, stable social democracy with one of the world’s highest standards of living. In 2000, Denmark voted by referendum not to adopt the euro. It is one of only 5 countries in the world that meets the UN goal for wealthy nations to provide 0.7% of its gross national income for international development assistance. In addition, Denmark has established Danida, Danish Development Assistance, to fight poverty and improve education in developing countries. The current Prime Minister, Mette Fredericksen, is the second woman and youngest person (at 44) to hold that office. She is the leader of the center-left Socialist Democratic Party.

79 Estonia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 17,462 square miles

• Capital: Tallinn

• Language: Estonian is the official language, with some Russian, Ukrainian, and Finnish also spoken.

• Location: Estonia is bordered on the east by Russia and on the west by the Baltic Sea. To the south is Latvia and to the north is the Gulf of Finland. Estonia has numerous lakes and forests and many rivers, most of which drain northward into the Gulf of Finland or eastward into Lake Peipus.

• Population: 1,265,420 (estimate)

• Religions: Lutheran 9.9%, Orthodox 16.2%, other Christian (including Methodis, Seventh-Day Adventist, Roman Catholic, Pentecostal) 2.2%, other 0.9%, none 54.1%, unspecified 16.7%

• Time zone: Estonia is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 7 hours ahead of Eastern Time. The country observes daylight savings time from late March until late September.

National Holidays: Estonia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day Estonia celebrates a number of national 06/23 Victory Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling 06/24 Midsummer Day during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 08/20 Independence Restoration Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/24 Christmas Eve

02/24 Independence Day 12/25 Christmas Day

12/26 Boxing Day

Estonia: A Brief History Life in Estonia must’ve been pretty good for the Finno-Ugric people who’d arrived there during the third millennium BC. They were nomadic hunters with a nature-centered religion, but they gave up their roaming to mingle with the resident Neolithic people, trading along the Amber Route. They never gave up their pagan religion, though others tried to pry it from them. That happened in 1193, when Celestine III called a crusade. Teutonic knights raided Estonia, aided by Danish troops, but the Estonians resisted for 30 years. By the mid-1200s Estonia was ruled

80 by Danes in the north and Teutons in the south, including land-owning bishops who still tried to convert the pagans. Though some Estonians professed Christianity, they secretly practiced paganism—and occasionally laid siege to monasteries and bishops’’castles.

The Baltic Germans remained and built thriving cities. Tallinn, Tartu, Viljandi, and Pärnu all became members of the Hanseatic League. In the mid-1500s, Ivan the Terrible came crashing down with his Tatar cavalry. To stop him, Poland, Denmark, and Sweden sent troops to fight in The Livonian War. Half the rural population perished. In the end, Sweden retained power in Estonia, and governed through the 17th century. But by 1700, Denmark, Poland, and Russia rose to reclaim lands lost in the Livonian War. This time Russia won Estonia, and held it for 200 years.

By the late 19th century Estonia was swept up in the romantic nationalism movement. The first Estonian language newspaper was published, native folklore was celebrated, and in 1869 the first Estonian song festival was held. But it wasn’t until after the Russian Revolution of 1917 that Estonia felt confident enough to declare independence. The Soviet Socialist Republic sent their military to overrun Estonia, but ceded their claim with the 1920 Tartu Treaty. Estonia was free.

By 1939, Germany and Russia had signed a secret non–aggression pact (the Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact) that carved up most of Europe. Estonia went to Russia, and tens of thousands of Estonians were forced into the army or sent to labor camps. When the Germans marched in in 1941, the Estonians initially welcomed them—until the Nazis began executing communist collaborators and forcibly conscripting citizens. Many Estonians fled to Finland and joined the Finnish Army. In 1941 there were about 2,000 Jews in Estonia. Almost all were killed by the Nazis, who murdered 10,000 more (from elsewhere in Europe) in Estonian camps.

With the end of the war the Soviets returned. Executions began, and 2.5% of the population was deported to Siberia. A program of Russification was set in motion, bringing in thousands of Russian immigrants and attempting to systematically dismantle Estonian culture.

In the 1980s, the era of glasnost rekindled Estonian hopes for freedom. One of Estonia’s most powerful acts of resistance was a song festival held in protest 1988, which drew international attention. On the 50th anniversary of the Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact, a human protest chain stretched across the Baltics to Tallinn. Finally in 1991, Estonia gained independence. In 2004, Estonia joined NATO and the European Union. Its expansive economic growth was halted by the 2008 economic downturn, but it rebounded, largely on the strength of its dynamic tech sector.

Today, Estonia is a tech leader. Taxes are done online in under 5 minutes; all public services are available on the web; and voting is done online. In 2007, several Estonian institutions were hit by Russian cyberattacks. The government reported that Russia had instigated a disinformation campaign to split Estonia’s many Russian speakers. With Estonia leading the charge, NATO established the Cooperative Cyber Defense Center of Excellence (CCDCOE) in Tallinn in 2008.

Latvia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 24,938 square miles

81 • Capital: Riga

• Languages: Latvian is the official language; Russian and Lithuanian are also spoken.

• Ethnicities: Latvian 56.3%, Russian 33.8%, Belarusian 3.5%, Ukrainian 2.3%, Polish 2.2%, Lithuanian 1.3%, other 3.4%

• Location: Latvia is bordered by Estonia, Lithuania, Russia, Belarus, and the Baltic Sea.

• Geography: Riga, the Latvian capital, is often described as a cultural capital for the entire Baltic region and is home to some of the most elegant and continental architecture in the Baltics. Most of Latvia is rich flat plain, but due to the high water table, only about 28% is arable. Perhaps this explains why nearly 2/3 of the Latvian population is urban.

• Population: 2,165, 165

• Religions: Lutheran 19.6%, Orthodox 15.3%, other Christian 1%, other 0.4%, unspecified 63.7%

• Time Zone: Latvia is seven hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 1pm in Riga.

National Holidays: Latvia

In addition to the holidays listed below, Latvia 06/23 Midsummer Eve celebrates a number of national holidays that 06/24 Midsummer Day follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling during these 11/18 Republic of Latvia Proclamation Day holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ holidays. 12/24 Christmas Eve

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day

05/01 Labor Day 12/26 Second Day of Christmas

05/04 Independence Restoration Day 12/31 New Year’s Eve

Latvia: A Brief History Modern Latvians descend from the Balts, who arrived around 2000 BC from Belarus, and traded along the Amber Route. By 1000 AD, the Balts had diverged into four tribes, the largest of which, the Latgals, ruled most of Latvia. The Balts were pagans and in 1193, Pope Celestine III asked the Teutonic knights to launch a northern crusade. The knights established a base in Riga, and had some success in converting the Latgals (though many pagan ways continued in secret).

Soon, German settlers arrived and began developing trade. In 1282, Riga joined the Hanseatic League. With its connections to Germany and proximity to Russia, Riga prospered for 300 years. But most of the wealth went to the German overlords, as the Latvians were little more than serfs. From the mid-16th to the early 18th century, Latvia was partitioned between Poland and Sweden, but by 1721 Russia had annexed the whole of Latvia, and held it for the next 200 years.

82 Forced integration into the Russian empire caused many locals to identify as Latvians for the first time. The move towards a national identity was lead by the so-called “Young Latvians” from the 1850s through the 1880s. Also in the late 19th century, the Latvian Jewish community made significant contributions to industry and trade, operating woodworking factories, timber and grain mills, export companies and distilleries. Following the 1917 Russian Revolution, Latvia declared independence. The new nation was recognized by the Soviet Union in 1920.

In 1939 Russia and Germany secretly agreed to a non-aggression pact that carved Europe up between them. Latvia fell into the Russian sphere, and in 1939 the Red Army arrived. During the first year of Soviet occupation, 35,000 Latvians, especially the intelligentsia, were deported to Russia. The terror continued with the Nazi occupation in 1941. Both powers used forced conscriptions, deportations, and executions against the local population. Latvia’s Jews fared worst of all. Prior to the war there were 94,000 of them; in 1944, only a few hundred remained.

Near the end of the war, the Russians returned and annexed Latvia. On top of the devastation of World War II, there were mass deportations that sent 120,000 Latvians to Siberia. At this same time, the Soviets began a process of Russification, resettling thousands of ethnic Russians in Latvia, imposing the Russian language, and instituting a Russian curriculum in schools. By 1989, native Latvians comprised only 52% of the population, as opposed 77% before the war.

The reform of the communist regime under Mikhail Gorbachev inspired Latvia’s independence movement. On August 23, 1989, Latvia joined Estonia and Lithuania in forming a 420-mile, human chain of two million protestors. It was the anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact that had carved the Baltics up between Germany and Russia. The movement gained traction as the Baltics launched the so-called “Singing Revolution,” in which millions of people publicly gathered to sing folk songs that became protest anthems. The crumbling Soviet Union was too weak to stop it. Two years later, Latvia declared independence.

Latvia quickly reached major milestones such as joining the European Union and NATO. Many Latvians credit the leadership of Vaira Vike-Friberga, the Baltic’s first female head of state, who was president from 1999 to 2007. While the EU brought tangible benefits, the global economic crisis of 2008 hit Latvia hard. Many young people left to find opportunities elsewhere. Recently, the economy has begun to rebound. In 2015, Raimonds Vejonis of the Green Party became president, campaigning for the environment and national security. While many people are optimistic, given the Russian incursions into Ukraine in 2014, it is a cautious optimism.

Russia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 6,601,670 square miles, the largest country on Earth

• Capital: Moscow

• Language: Russian.

83 • Location: Russia spans two continents, with the part west of the Urals considered to be in Europe while the rest of the country is in Asia. On its west, Russia is bordered by Norway, Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Belarus, Ukraine, and the Black Sea. On the south, the Russian border touches Georgia, Azerbaijan, the Caspian Sea, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, and China. The North Pacific Ocean defines Russia’s eastern edge, and the Arctic Ocean lies to Russia’s north.

• Population: 142,423,773 (estimate)

• Religion: Russian Orthodox 15-20%, Muslim 10-15%, other Christian 2%

• Time zone: From April through most of September, Moscow and St. Petersburg are 8 hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Daylight Time, 11 hours ahead of U.S. Pacific Daylight Time.

National Holidays: Russia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/08 International Women’s Day Russia celebrates a number of national April or May Orthodox Easter (moves holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such each year) as New Year Holiday Week. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please 05/01 Labor Day visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/09 Victory Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 06/12 Russia Day 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day 11/04 Unity Day (observed on Monday when 02/23 Defender of the Fatherland Day falls on a weekend)

Russia: A Brief History With a history as sprawling as its physical borders, the arc of Russia is nothing short of epic. No summary can do justice to the historical currents that still pulse through modern Russian consciousness. But a good starting point is 862 AD, the birth of Rus, the first Russian state established by the Varangians (Vikings), who ruled the resident Slavs and Finno-Ugric people. It began in Novgorod, and gradually absorbed the region around Kiev to form Kievan Rus.

Kievan Rus was derailed for 300 years after the Mongol invasion in 1223. A hero of this age was Alexander Nevsky, who managed to preserve the Russian state and Russian Orthodoxy. The most transformative of all rulers was Peter the Great (1689-1725), who dragged Russia into the modern age, “kicking and screaming.” A giant in stature as well as impact (Peter was 6’8”), he defeated Sweden in the Great Northern War; founded a dazzling new capital, St. Petersburg; and made Russia a world power. Forty years later, his spirit lived on in Catherine the Great, a fan of Enlightenment thinking but also expansionism: She annexed the Crimea, Poland, and beyond.

84 Serfdom was abolished in 1861, but the misery of the peasants continued. Revolutionaries mobilized the industrial working class just as the nation had suffered disastrous wars, economic crises, and a tone-deaf monarchy. It led to widespread rioting and the murder of the last Romanovs. The 1917 Russian Revolution burned on as Marxist Bolsheviks seized power under Vladimir Lenin. A civil war ensued, the Communists won, and the Soviet Union was born in 1922.

After Lenin’s death in 1924, Josef Stalin became the dictator. Trotsky and other “Old Bolsheviks” were killed or exiled. As the 1930s began, Stalin launched the Great Purges, when millions were executed or exiled to Siberia. The USSR became an industrial power, but there was widespread misery. Soon there was a distraction: World War II, called the Great Patriotic War in Russia.

At first, Russia struck a secret deal with Germany: The 1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, a non- aggression treaty that carved Europe into German and Soviet spheres. In 1940 the USSR annexed Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. But soon Germany marched into the new Soviet territories and right up to Moscow. The Red Army stopped the Nazis at Stalingrad in 1943 and drove them back, capturing Berlin before Germany surrendered in 1945. During the war the Soviet Union lost more than 27 million citizens (including 18 million civilians), the highest recorded losses for any military conflict the world has ever known.

The Red Army continued to occupy Eastern Europe after the war, installing satellite states as the US helped Western Europe stabilize. Both powers sought dominance over the Third World during the Cold War. Stalin died in 1953 and Nikita Khrushchev took over. He instituted reforms, presided over the space race, and faced less stellar events like the Cuban Missile Crisis and an escalating arms race. Things changed in the ‘80s with Mikhail Gorbachev and his policies of glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring). However, an unsuccessful military coup that tried to remove him instead led to the collapse of the Soviet Union. Boris Yeltsin came to power, the USSR splintered into 15 republics, and was officially dissolved in December, 1991.

Vladimir Putin was elected in 2000. Though Putin is still the most popular Russian politician, controversies include increased state control of the media, government influence on elections (in Russia and abroad), the murder of dissidents, and ongoing Ukrainian interference. At the same time, high oil prices boosted Russia’s economy and standard of living. In 2018 Putin won his fourth term, which will last until 2024—barring any further constitutional manipulation.

85 RESOURCES

Suggested Reading

Scandinavia A History of Scandinavia by T. K. Derry (History) Provides a nice overview of the history of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, and Iceland.

A History of the Vikings by Gwyn Jones (History) Before their defeat at Hastings in 1066, the Vikings’ sphere of influence extended from Constantinople to America. Gwyn Jones brings their civilization alive in this portrait of the Viking adventures, based on surviving documents and archaeological finds. Considered the classic for non-scholarly coverage of the Vikings but might be a slog for some.

Smilla’s Sense of Snow by Peter Hoeg (Suspense) This superbly constructed atmospheric thriller set in Denmark went on to become required reading for many Scandinavian Studies programs at universities, and was the basis for the 1996 Oscar-nominated movie.

Finland Seven Brothers by Aleksis Kivi (1870, Historical Fiction). A Finnish classic, Seven Brothers follows the lives of seven brothers in rural Finland during the nineteenth century.

The Unknown Soldier by Vaino Linna (1954, Fiction). A war novel narrating Finnish soldiers during the Continuation War of 1941-1944 between Finland and the Soviet Union, a war fought over nationalism and territory lost to the USSR in the Winter War the previous year.

The Year of the Hare by Arto Paasilinna (1975, Fiction). The adventures of journalist Kaarlo Vatanen only started when he nearly runs over a hare. After nursing the injured hare back to health, Vatanen decides to leave his old life, job and wife, behind for the open road and wacky hijinks.

Kalevala by Elias Lonnrot (1835, Folklore). Kalevala is a collection of 19th century epic poetry of Karelian and Finnish mythology, written down from its traditional oral stories. A national epic of Finland, the Kalevala tells the story of the Creation of the Earth, all the way to the integration of Christianity.

Finland’s War of Choice: The Troubled German-Finnish Coalition in World War II by Henrik Olai Lunde (2011, History). Following the bloody Winter War against Soviet Russia, where thousands died and Finland was forced to cede multiple territories to USSR rule, Finland teamed up with Nazi Germany in the Continuation War, from 1941 to 1944, in hopes of winning back their lost land.

86 Norway The Bat by Jo Nesbo (1997, Mystery) Norwegian novelist Jo Nesbo published 10 more thrillers featuring Harry Hole, a gifted investigator with the Oslo police. This is the first, introducing our hero who is an alcoholic and prone to depression, but a joy to know.

The Winter Fortress: The Epic Mission to Sabotage Hitler’s Atomic Bomb by Neal Bascomb (2016, History) It reads like a thriller, but it’s the true story of the race to prevent the Nazis from getting heavy water—which was the last piece they needed to create an atomic bomb—an item only produced in a fortress-like plant in Vemork, Norway.

Norse Mythology by Neil Gaiman (2017, Myths) Acclaimed author Neil Gaiman retells stories about the Norse gods Odin, Thor, and Loki in a modern way while still staying true to the originals.

Growth of the Soil by Knut Hamsun (1920, Fiction) Winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature, Hamsun captures the indomitable human spirit of Norway’s early settlers like Steinbeck did for farm families during the Dust Bowl.

A Doll’s House, Ghosts, An Enemy of the People, and The Wild Duck by Henrik Ibsen (Plays) These works by Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen (1828-1906) changed theater forever with the first realistic dialogue and depictions of love, marriage, and the ills of contemporary society.

Denmark We, the Drowned by Carsten Jensen (2011, Fiction) An epic seafaring adventure that follows the inhabitants of the Danish town of Marstal from 1848 to World War II, when the men sail the world and the women who are left behind form a community. The book is long (600 plus pages) and deals frankly with war, violence, and cruelty. But it was a runaway international bestseller and lauded for its use of fantastical elements.

Iceland’s Bell by Halldor Laxness (2003, Fiction) Nobel Laureate Halldor Laxness reinvents the traditional Icelandic saga and injects it with a modern sensibility and a satirical undercurrent that speaks to our age. The plot pits an impoverished Danish colony – Iceland in the 17th century – against the grand historical workings of Danish and Icelandic history. Three interconnected stories reveal the political and personal conflicts of the day in historical context.

On Tycho’s Island: Tycho Brahe and his Assistants, 1570-1601 by John Robert Christianson (1999, Biography/History) Chiefly famed as an astronomer, this book offers a fuller vision of Tycho Brahe as Renaissance man and scientist. From his private island in Denmark, Brahe assembled and manipulated the artists, nobility and the intelligentsia of the age to create breakthroughs in astronomy, science and research.

Winter’s Tales and Seven Gothic Tales by Isak Dinesen (1934, Stories) Best known for Out Of Africa, her memoir of 20 years running and living on a coffee plantation in Africa, Karen Blixen (pen name, Isak Dinesen) also wrote short tales based in her homeland, Denmark. Winter’s Tales and Seven Gothic Tales are generally considered the high water marks of her shorter works.

87 The Complete Fairy Tales by Hans Christian Andersen (Folklore) There are several different anthologies of these fairy tales, written by Denmark’s famous poet, novelist, and writer of short stories. Considered a genius for his inventiveness and imagination, his works continue to captivate both children and adults.

The Baltics The Baltic: A History of the Region and Its People by Alan Palmer (2006, History) The author includes all nine nations who share a common shore, showing how their histories, cultures, commerce and beliefs have evolved over the centuries.

The Czar’s Madman by Jaan Kross (1978, Historical Fiction) In 1818, a nobleman of Livonia (between modern Latvia and Estonia) is imprisoned for having written a critical letter to the czar. Upon his release, spies in his household must decide if his radical ideas are treasonous or simply insane.

Autumn Ball by Mati Unt (1979, Fiction) This darkly comic novel peers into the lives of six disparate and desperate characters who all reside in a Soviet-era, pre-fab housing block on the edge of Tallinn.

Purge by Sofi Oksanen (2008, Fiction) The author weaves together the lives of two women in 1990s Estonia who are brought together by tragic—and sometimes shocking—circumstances. A bestseller in Europe, the novel has been translated into at least 32 languages.

Vilnius Poker by Ricardas Gavelis (1989, Fiction) A love story told from four different points of view explores larger themes of life under an absurdist Soviet regime in 1970s and 1980s Vilnius.

Tula by Jurgis Kuncinas (1993, Fiction) Considered a classic of Lithuanian literature, this quirky love story is set in the late-Soviet era in the so-called “independent republic of Uzupis,” a bohemian quarter in Vilnius.

We Are Here: Memories of the Lithuanian Holocaust by Ellen Cassedy (2012, Memoir) A heartfelt and personal investigation into the Lithuanian Holocaust by an American journalist who uses her own family history to illustrate this dark era.

The Book of Riga edited by Becca Parkinson and Eva Eglaja-Kristsone (2018, Fiction) This short story collection showcases some of the best Baltic writers across all genres to tell the story of Riga—a city over 800 years old.

The Dogs of Riga by Henning Mankell (1992, Mystery) Fans of the BBC series Wallander will love this book, in which the adroit Swedish detective travels to Riga to solve the mystery of two bodies that have washed up ashore. He becomes immersed in a web of bureaucracy, corruption, and secrecy as he navigates his way around post-independence Latvia.

Between Shades of Gray by Ruta Sepetys ( 2012, Fiction) This highly acclaimed novel tells the story of Lina, a Lithuanian teenager who is forcibly deported to a Siberian work camp in 1941. A talented artist, she uses her drawings as a way to maintain her dignity and identity—and perhaps

88 reach her father, who is being held in a different camp. Although fiction, the story is based on accounts from survivors and historical research, and therefore provides a good sense of the Soviet suppression in the Baltics.

Set Sail for Murder by Carolyn Hart (2008, Mystery) Sailing to Copenhagen, Tallinn, and St. Petersburg with Mr. and Mrs. Jimmy Lennox is his old friend, retired investigative reporter Henrietta O’ Dwyer Collins. But can she find out who is trying to kill Jimmy’s dashing wife before disaster strikes?

Russia Peter the Great, His Life, and World (1980); The Romanovs, The Final Chapter (1995); and Nicholas and Alexandra (1967) by Robert Massie (Biography/History) Three definitive works by the Pulitzer Prize-winning historian. Massie portrays a giant of history in Peter the Great; unfolds the mystery of what might be the remains of the Romanovs in The Final Chapter; and dazzles with the fairytale romance of the last emperor and his bride in Nicholas and Alexandra.

Russia, A Concise History by Ronald Hingley (1991, History) A readable, condensed history of Russia’s multiple transformations by a well-known Russian scholar.

A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles (2014, Fiction) In 1922, Count Alexander Rostov is sentenced to lifelong house arrest in Moscow’s Metropol Hotel. Though physically constrained, his life becomes more emotionally expansive as he contends with the events of 30 years of Russian history.

The Night Witches by Russ Braun and Garth Ennis (2019, Graphic Novel/Historical Fiction) During World War II, a new breed of fighter pilot emerges to defend the Soviet Motherland—the all-female Night Witches. Piloting obsolete biplanes, these heroines patrol the lethal skies above the Eastern Front, but as the young Lieutenant Anna Kharkova discovers, the Nazi foe has a homegrown counterpart in Stalin’s secret police.

Putin Country: A Journey into the Real Russia by Anne Garrels (2017, Nonfiction) A longtime NPR foreign correspondent looks beyond the capitals of Moscow and St. Petersburg to better understand life for the ordinary Russians who comprise Vladimir Putin’s political base.

Secondhand Time by Svetlana Alexievich (2013, Memoir) The author won the Nobel Prize for inventing a “new kind of literary genre” that gathers a chorus of voices to describe a specific historical moment. Here, her interviewees chronicle the demise of Soviet communism over thirty years, with stunning emotional resonance and clarity.

Russian Stories edited by Christoph Keller (2019, Fiction) If you don’t have time to read the heavyweights, this anthology brings together classic tales from the likes of Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, and Chekhov along with their most acclaimed contemporary heirs.

89 Suggested Film & Video

Finland The Winter War (1989, Drama) An excellent Finnish war film (original title Talvisota) that tells the story of the resistance of a platoon of Osttrobottnian Finns, when Russia attacked Finland in November of ‘39. The Finns fought hard against overwhelming odds, with meager supplies, and the movie faithfully presents their action in the forbidding snowy landscape.

The Unknown Soldier (1955, Drama) An adaptation of Väinö Linna’s novel this is a story about the Continuation War between Finland and the Soviet Union, told from the view of ordinary Finnish soldiers. Gritty and realistic, the film remains the most successful film ever made in Finland, and more than half of Finland’s population viewed it in theaters.

Steam of Life (2010, Documentary) An acclaimed Finnish documentary travels around the country finding men in different saunas willing to share their stories about love, death, birth, and friendship—about life. The steam reveals the men’s souls in an intimate and poetic journey to the film’s emotional end.

The Man Without a Past (2002, Comedy) The second part of Aki Kaurismäki’s “Finland” trilogy, the film follows a man who awakens after a brutal mugging with no memory. A poor family nurses him to health and a Salvation Army worker gets him a job. He builds a new self, despite a society that is unable to deal with his lack of established identity and history. The film quietly evolves into funny portrait of the possibilities of life.

Elina: As If I Wasn’t There (2002, Drama) In rural Sweden of the early 1950s, Elina returns to school again after an illness. From a Finnish-speaking minority, Elina has conflicts with her biased teacher, and finds consolation wandering on the dangerous marshlands while speaking with her dead father.

Pelikaanimies (2004, Fantasy) A pelican becomes a gawky young man who learns to speak, thanks to his talent for imitation. He befriends two children who—unlike adults—see that their new neighbor ‘Mr Berd’ is not a man but a bird in a suit. The Pelican Man lands a job at the opera and falls in love. When adults discover the truth, trouble starts in this unusual and charming film.

Mother of Mine (2005, War/Drama) Amidst the conflict of World War II, Eero, a Finnish boy, is sent to live with a Swedish foster family by his mother. Eero feels abandoned by his Swedish mother, but unwelcomed by his new foster mother. When Eero returns to Finland following the war, his feelings of abandonment and confusion intensify.

Norway Edvard Munch (1974, Biography) Peter Watkins’ experimental biography of Norwegian artist Edvard Munch traces Munch’s life between 1884 and 1894, from Christiania (modern Oslo) to Berlin and his relationships with August Strindberg. Watkins’ uses sound, montage, close ups and a dark color palette to emulate Munch’s stylistic approach to his art.

90 Kissed by Winter (2005, Drama) Set in Norway’s snowy wilds, a woman runs from her difficult past and discovers love again. After a horrible accident, the guilt-stricken Victoria leaves her husband and flees to the country. She becomes entangled in an unusual murder investigation, and is pulled into the life of the main suspect.

Song of Norway (1970, Biography) This 1970 film adaptation of the operetta of the same name depicts the early struggles of composer Edvard Grieg and his attempts to develop an authentic Norwegian national music. With an international cast that included Florence Henderson and Edward G. Robinson, the film was an attempt to cash in on the success of A Sound of Music. Most critics agreed that it failed miserably—although British audiences liked it.

Kristin Lavransdatter (1995, Historical Drama) An epic love story set in 14th century Norway. The beautiful Kristin dutifully takes herself to a convent to await her arranged marriage, but her beauty and devotion only inspire envy and violence. When she falls in love with young knight, it prompts a family and political crisis. Directed by Liv Ullmann and adapted from a trilogy by the Nobel Laureate Sigrid Undset, this is a clear-eyed depiction of Norse life, love, society, and redemption.

Kitchen Stories (2003, Comedy) Swedish efficiency researchers come to Norway to study the domestic habits of Norwegian men. But things go awry when Isak, a cranky farmer, decides to amuse himself by impeding the work of his fastidious Swedish researcher, Folke. The kitchen quickly becomes the scene of a sly battle of wits. Inspired by actual research done in the 1940s and 50s, this stylish film charmed audiences.

Denmark The Danish Girl (2015, Drama) The Danish artist Einar Wegener (later known as Lili Elbe) was one of the first people to undergo sex reassignment surgery. This biopic depicts Elbe’s early career and marriage to artist Gerda Gottlieb, and the Bohemian worlds of Copenhagen and Paris in the 20s and early 30s.

A Royal Affair (2012, Historical Drama) The mentally ill King Christian VII comes to rely on his friend and physician, Johann Struensee (Mads Mikkelsen), a radical Enlightenment thinker from Germany. So, too, does the lonely Queen Caroline (Alicia Vikander), who begins a passionate affair with the doctor. The king learns of their liaison, but protects them, and makes Struensee a Royal Advisor who essentially rules in the king’s name. But his reforms are cut short when plotting aristocrats use the affair and Struensee’s foreign status to bring a tragic end to this true story.

Pele the Conqueror (1988, Drama) Directed by Billie August, this Danish-Swedish production won the 1989 Oscar for Best Foreign Film, and star Max von Sydow was nominated for Best Actor. It follows the early 19th-century widower Lasse, who emigrates with his 12-year old son Pelle to the Danish island of Bornholm in search of a better life. That is not what they find.

91 Babette’s Feast (1988, Comedy) Set on the rugged coast of 19th century Denmark, this film is from a short story by Isak Dinesen. Two beautiful daughters grow up with a clergyman father, who preaches self-denial. After his death, the sisters uphold his inflexible practices until the arrival of a French refugee, Babette. She cooks and for them, and introduces them to the deep pleasure of a gourmet French meal. Winner of the 1987 Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film.

The Danish Solution (2003, Documentary) Filmmakers Karen Cantor and Camilla Kjaerulff , with Garrison Keillor narrating, reveal how the citizens of Denmark protected their Jewish population against Hitler’s attempt to impose export his final solution into Denmark.

The Baltics The Other Dream Team (2012, Documentary) The 1988 Soviet Olympic basketball team included four Lithuanian starters who never got credit for their contribution. Fast forward to 1992, after Lithuania’s independence. The struggling nation could not afford to send their basketball team to the Barcelona Olympics, until some unlikely champions stepped in: the American rock band, the Grateful Dead. A must for sports fans and anyone who loves a feel-good story.

The Chronicles of Melanie (2016, Drama) In 1941, the Soviets rounded up 40,000 Latvians, Lithuanians, and Estonians, and executed or deported them to Siberian gulags. This is the true story of Melanija Vanaga, who was separated from her husband and sent east with her eight year-old son. To endure her brutal existence, for 16 years she writes love letters to her husband that can never be sent.

The Singing Revolution (2006, Documentary) Can music change the world? Between 1987 and 1991, hundreds of thousands of Estonians gathered publicly to sing forbidden patriotic songs and share protest speeches. Their revolution succeeded without a single loss of life. This film reveals how it happened.

Loss (2008, Drama) This taut thriller concerns a Lithuanian priest who resettles in Ireland. But when another Lithuanian émigré, Valda, arrives, a secret from his past comes along with her, and disrupts the lives of six different people. This film was the first from Lithuania to be submitted for an Academy Award.

Baltic Storm (2003, Drama) This thriller focuses on the 1994 sinking of the ferry MS Estonia, in which 852 lives were lost. Based on the reporting of German journalist Jutta Rabe, it suggests that the sinking (and subsequent cover up) was connected to a Swedish military operation in which Russian defense technology was being smuggled to the west. Starring Greta Scacchi, Jürgen Prochnow, and Donald Sutherland.

The Invisible Front (2014, Documentary) A documentary about the Lithuanian resistance told through the experience of one of its leaders, Juozas Luksa, and his fellow “Forest Brothers.”

Russia The Dawns Here are Quiet (1972, Drama) An Academy Award nominee for Best Foreign Film. Heroism knows no gender in this heartbreaking World War II story about female Russian soldiers sent to fight Germans in the Karelian forest (near Finland). Their male sergeant (who has asked

92 for troops who don’t drink or chase after women) is shocked when he sees that his new anti- aircraft gunners are young women, but a mutual respect gradually evolves. The WWII scenes are shot in black and white and the backstories of the women are in color.

The Death of Stalin (2017, Satire) As the dictator is dying of a cerebral hemorrhage, his Council of Ministers scrambles to grab power for themselves. Scheming, treachery, horror and plenty of black comedy ensue, courtesy of a brilliant cast that includes Steve Buscemi as Nikita Kruschev and Jeffrey Tambor as Malenkov, Michael Palin as Molotov, and the brilliant Simon Russell Beale as the depraved head of the secret police, Beria. From one of the creators of Veep.

Russia: Land of the Tsars (2003, Documentary) Filmed on location in Russia by the A&E crew, this documentary captures the imperial history of the Tsars. Look for the special edition set that includes bonus episodes from the TV show A&E Biography on Peter the Great, Ivan the Terrible, and Rasputin.

Russian Ark (2002, Historical Fantasy) Three centuries of Russian history unfold in this breathtaking film, which consists of one entirely unbroken shot as the camera (and an unseen narrator) glides through the Winter Palace of the Hermitage. We meet famous characters overhear whispered conversations, spy on state meetings, and also glimpse the Hermitage’s fabled artwork.

Catherine the Great (2019, Historical Miniseries) Helen Mirren plays the aging empress, who, along with her lover and advisor Grigory Potemkim, expanded the borders of Russia and launched its rise as a major European power. Awash in sumptuous period details, the series reveals an amazing woman who outsmarted a succession of ruthless, petty, and grasping men. Confident in her power and free in her sexuality, Catherine was unfairly maligned by those same men. Mirren redeems her.

93 Useful Websites

Overseas Adventure Travel World Weather www.oattravel.com www.intellicast.com www.weather.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.wunderground.com www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) Overseas Adventure Travel Frequently www.travlang.com/languages Asked Questions www.oattravel.com/faq Packing Tips www.travelite.org International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) U.S. Customs & Border Protection http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.cbp.gov/travel

Electricity & Plugs Transportation Security www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ Administration (TSA) plugs-and-sockets www.tsa.gov

Foreign Exchange Rates National Passport Information Center www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.travel.state.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic Holidays Worldwide ATM Locators www.timeanddate.com/holidays www.mastercard.com/atm www.visa.com/atmlocator

94 VACCINATIONS NOW REQUIRED FOR ALL TRAVELERS, SHIP CREW, TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS, AND COACH DRIVERS Plus, updated Health & Safety Protocols for our Small Group Adventures by Land & Small Ship

The health and safety of our travelers is always our #1 priority, and we understand travelers are concerned about exploring the world in light of the unprecedented crisis we are currently facing. To ensure your safety and give you peace of mind, we have worked with our regional team and listened to government guidance and feedback from our travelers to create these health and safety protocols for our trips. As we continue to make changes, we will keep our website updated with the latest information.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS • All travelers, ship crew, and Trip Experience AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY Leaders will have their temperature checked PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL SHIP every time they return to the ship using a ADVENTURES non-contact infrared temperature scanner. • All travelers must be fully • All meals are served by the dining staff— vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 buffets are no longer available. days prior to departure and provide proof of VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS vaccination upon boarding the ship. AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY To meet this requirement, please bring your PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL GROUP original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card ADVENTURES ON LAND with you on your trip. The white card must • All travelers must be fully display your name, type of vaccine, and the vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 days date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also prior to departure. suggest taking a picture of this card to keep for your records as a backup. To meet this requirement, please bring your original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card • All local Trip Experience Leaders, with you on your trip. The white card must ship staff, and crew will be fully display your name, type of vaccine, and the vaccinated against COVID-19. date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also • All coach drivers will be fully suggest taking a picture of this card to keep vaccinated against COVID-19. for your records as a backup. • All public areas will be sanitized nightly and • All local Trip Experience Leaders will all ships are equipped with High Efficiency be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. Particulate Air (HEPA) filters. • All coach drivers will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19.

We will do all we can to ensure our travelers’ safety and health while on our adventures, but we need your help. We expect travelers to follow best health and hygiene practices to prevent the spread of illness as well—from washing your hands regularly, to covering your mouth when coughing or sneezing. By working together, we can create a safer travel experience for everyone.

Learn more at www.oattravel.com/covid-update

95 Notes

96 Notes

97 Notes

98

A I S S

U R

d

n

a

l

n i

RUSSIA

F

d St. Petersburg St.

le Palace f n

ā o

Tallinn a

l

Parnu

f

n l

Rund

i

D

u

F

RUSSIA

G

N

Helsinki f FINLAND ESTONIA

Riga LATVIA

A

o

L

f

a

e

S

l

c N i

t

Helsinki l

a u I

ESTONIA B

F G PRE-TRIP EXTENSION

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION

D N

A

Ivalo L

N I F Lakselv Inari ESTONIA LATVIA

Helsinki LITHUANIA

Karasjok

f

o N

f

l

u G

E Baltic Sea D

Tromso E

Svolvaer Bodo W

S Miles

To/From U.S. Internal flight Land route Ferry route Rail route

Y

A

a

n 0 100

e W

a

S

i

g

R

Stokmarknes e

w

r O Oslo

o N N Myrdal DENMARK

Flåm

n Voss e

SWEDEN

g

a

h n

Bergen

e p

Roskilde

o C Sea NORWAY DENMARK North Bergen Sea North POST-TRIP EXTENSION

99 Visit www.oattravel.com or call us toll-free at 1-800-955-1925

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