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Home , Amilakhvari, Anchiskhati Basilica, Anton I of Georgia, Aragvi, Bagrati Cathedral, Bodbe Monastery

WikiVoyage March 2016 Contents

1 Georgia (country) 1 1.1 Regions ...... 1 1.2 Cities ...... 1 1.3 Other destinations ...... 1 1.4 Understand ...... 2 1.4.1 People ...... 3 1.5 Get in ...... 3 1.5.1 Visas ...... 3 1.5.2 By plane ...... 4 1.5.3 By bus ...... 4 1.5.4 By minibus ...... 4 1.5.5 By ...... 4 1.5.6 By train ...... 5 1.5.7 By boat ...... 5 1.6 Get around ...... 5 1.6.1 Taxi ...... 5 1.6.2 Minibus ...... 5 1.6.3 By train ...... 5 1.6.4 By bike ...... 5 1.6.5 City Bus ...... 5 1.6.6 Mountain ...... 6 1.7 Talk ...... 6 1.8 See ...... 6 1.9 Do ...... 7 1.10 Buy ...... 7 1.10.1 Shopping ...... 7 1.10.2 Costs ...... 7 1.10.3 Tipping ...... 7 1.11 Eat ...... 7 1.11.1 Types of places to eat ...... 7 1.11.2 Popular dishes ...... 8 1.11.3 Vegetarian dishes ...... 8

i ii CONTENTS

1.11.4 Home food ...... 8 1.12 Drink ...... 8 1.12.1 Chacha ...... 8 1.12.2 Wine ...... 8 1.12.3 ...... 9 1.12.4 Mineral Waters ...... 9 1.12.5 Lagidze Waters (Soft Drink) ...... 9 1.13 Sleep ...... 9 1.14 Learn ...... 9 1.15 Work ...... 10 1.16 Stay safe ...... 10 1.16.1 ...... 10 1.16.2 ...... 11 1.16.3 ...... 11 1.16.4 The Mountains ...... 11 1.16.5 Separatist Regions ...... 11 1.17 Stay healthy ...... 11 1.18 Respect ...... 12 1.18.1 Sensitive Issues ...... 12 1.19 Connect ...... 12 1.19.1 Mail ...... 12 1.19.2 By phone ...... 12 1.19.3 Internet ...... 12 1.19.4 By net ...... 12

2 13 2.1 Cities ...... 13 2.2 Other destinations ...... 13 2.3 Understand ...... 13 2.4 Talk ...... 13 2.5 Get in ...... 14 2.6 Get around ...... 14 2.7 See ...... 14 2.8 Do ...... 14 2.9 Eat ...... 14 2.10 Drink ...... 14 2.11 Sleep ...... 14 2.12 Go next ...... 14

3 Gareja Monastery Complex 15 3.1 Understand ...... 15 3.2 Get in ...... 15 CONTENTS iii

3.2.1 By car ...... 15 3.2.2 By taxi ...... 15 3.2.3 By ...... 15 3.3 Get around ...... 15 3.4 See ...... 15 3.5 Do ...... 16 3.6 Buy ...... 16 3.7 Eat ...... 16 3.8 Drink ...... 16 3.9 Sleep ...... 16 3.10 Connect ...... 16 3.11 Go next ...... 16

4 Sighnaghi 17 4.1 Understand ...... 17 4.2 Get in ...... 17 4.3 Get around ...... 17 4.4 See ...... 17 4.4.1 Further afield ...... 18 4.5 Do ...... 18 4.6 Buy ...... 19 4.7 Eat ...... 19 4.8 Drink ...... 19 4.9 Sleep ...... 19 4.10 Connect ...... 20 4.11 Go next ...... 20

5 21 5.1 Get in ...... 21 5.2 Get around ...... 21 5.3 See ...... 21 5.3.1 Alaverdi ...... 21 5.3.2 Tsinandali village ...... 21 5.4 Do ...... 22 5.5 Buy ...... 22 5.6 Eat ...... 22 5.7 Drink ...... 22 5.8 Sleep ...... 22 5.9 Connect ...... 22 5.10 Go next ...... 22

6 23 iv CONTENTS

6.1 Cities ...... 23 6.2 Other destinations ...... 23 6.3 Understand ...... 23 6.4 Talk ...... 23 6.5 Get in ...... 24 6.6 Get around ...... 24 6.7 See ...... 24 6.7.1 Itineraries ...... 24 6.8 Do ...... 24 6.9 Eat ...... 24 6.10 Drink ...... 24 6.11 Stay safe ...... 24 6.12 Go next ...... 24

7 Gori 25 7.1 Understand ...... 25 7.2 Get in ...... 25 7.3 Get around ...... 25 7.4 See ...... 26 7.4.1 The Stalin Cult ...... 26 7.4.2 Uplistsikhe ...... 27 7.4.3 Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle) ...... 27 7.4.4 Gori (Gori Cross) ...... 28 7.5 Do ...... 28 7.6 Buy ...... 28 7.7 Eat ...... 29 7.8 Drink ...... 29 7.9 Sleep ...... 29 7.10 Connect ...... 30 7.11 Respect ...... 30 7.12 Go next ...... 30

8 Gudauri 31 8.1 Understand ...... 31 8.2 Get in ...... 31 8.3 Get around ...... 31 8.4 See ...... 31 8.5 Do ...... 31 8.6 Buy ...... 31 8.7 Eat ...... 31 8.8 Drink ...... 31 8.9 Sleep ...... 31 CONTENTS v

8.10 Connect ...... 31 8.11 Go next ...... 31

9 32 9.1 Get in ...... 32 9.1.1 By train ...... 32 9.1.2 By taxi ...... 33 9.1.3 By minibus ...... 33 9.2 Get around ...... 33 9.3 See ...... 33 9.3.1 Around town ...... 33 9.4 Do ...... 33 9.4.1 Events ...... 33 9.5 Buy ...... 34 9.6 Eat ...... 34 9.7 Drink ...... 34 9.8 Sleep ...... 34 9.9 Go next ...... 34

10 35 10.1 Understand ...... 35 10.2 Get in ...... 35 10.3 Get around ...... 35 10.4 See ...... 35 10.5 Do ...... 35 10.6 Buy ...... 35 10.7 Eat ...... 36 10.8 Drink ...... 36 10.9 Sleep ...... 36 10.10Connect ...... 36 10.11Go next ...... 36

11 37 11.1 Cities ...... 37 11.2 Other destinations ...... 37 11.3 Understand ...... 37 11.4 Talk ...... 37 11.5 Get in ...... 37 11.6 Get around ...... 37 11.7 See ...... 37 11.8 Do ...... 37 11.9 Eat ...... 38 vi CONTENTS

11.10Drink ...... 38 11.11Stay safe ...... 38 11.12Go next ...... 38

12 39 12.1 Understand ...... 39 12.2 Get in ...... 39 12.3 Get around ...... 39 12.4 See ...... 39 12.5 Do ...... 39 12.5.1 Gergeti Trinity ...... 40 12.5.2 Other outdoor activities ...... 40 12.6 Buy ...... 40 12.7 Eat ...... 40 12.8 Drink ...... 40 12.9 Sleep ...... 40 12.10Connect ...... 41 12.11Go next ...... 41

13 Tbilisi 42 13.1 Understand ...... 42 13.1.1 Climate ...... 42 13.2 Get in ...... 42 13.2.1 By plane ...... 42 13.2.2 By train ...... 43 13.2.3 By bus ...... 44 13.2.4 By minibus ...... 44 13.3 Get around ...... 44 13.3.1 By metro ...... 45 13.3.2 By bus ...... 45 13.3.3 By minibus ...... 45 13.3.4 By cab ...... 46 13.3.5 By car ...... 46 13.4 See ...... 46 13.4.1 Museums ...... 46 13.4.2 Religious architecture ...... 47 13.4.3 Other Sights ...... 49 13.4.4 Further afield ...... 50 13.5 Do ...... 50 13.5.1 Theatres ...... 51 13.6 Buy ...... 51 13.7 Eat ...... 52 CONTENTS vii

13.7.1 ...... 52 13.7.2 Asian cuisine ...... 53 13.7.3 European/American ...... 53 13.7.4 Italian cuisine ...... 54 13.7.5 Other ...... 54 13.8 Drink ...... 54 13.8.1 Cafés ...... 55 13.8.2 Clubs ...... 55 13.9 Sleep ...... 56 13.9.1 Budget ...... 56 13.9.2 Mid-range ...... 57 13.9.3 Splurge ...... 58 13.10Stay safe ...... 58 13.11Stay healthy ...... 59 13.12Connect ...... 59 13.13Cope ...... 59 13.13.1 Embassies ...... 59 13.14Go next ...... 60 13.14.1 ...... 60 13.14.2 Azerbaijan ...... 60 13.14.3 Within Georgia ...... 60

14 Region 61 14.1 Regions ...... 61 14.2 Cities ...... 61 14.3 Other destinations ...... 61 14.4 Understand ...... 61 14.5 Talk ...... 61 14.6 Get in ...... 61 14.7 Get around ...... 61 14.8 See ...... 61 14.8.1 Itineraries ...... 61 14.9 Do ...... 61 14.10Eat ...... 61 14.11Drink ...... 61 14.12Stay safe ...... 61 14.13Go next ...... 61

15 Kutaisi 63 15.1 Understand ...... 63 15.2 Get in ...... 63 15.2.1 By plane ...... 63 viii CONTENTS

15.2.2 By train ...... 64 15.2.3 By bus ...... 64 15.2.4 By car ...... 64 15.3 Get around ...... 64 15.3.1 By bus ...... 64 15.3.2 By train ...... 64 15.4 See ...... 65 15.4.1 Museums ...... 65 15.4.2 Further afield ...... 65 15.5 Do ...... 66 15.5.1 Theatres ...... 66 15.5.2 Parks ...... 66 15.6 Buy ...... 66 15.7 Eat ...... 66 15.8 Drink ...... 67 15.9 Sleep ...... 67 15.9.1 Budget ...... 67 15.9.2 Mid-range ...... 67 15.9.3 Splurge ...... 68 15.10Connect ...... 68 15.11Go next ...... 68

16 Oni 69 16.1 Get in ...... 69 16.2 Get around ...... 69 16.3 See ...... 69 16.4 Do ...... 69 16.5 Eat ...... 69 16.6 Drink ...... 69 16.7 Sleep ...... 69 16.8 Go next ...... 69

17 Samtskhe- 70 17.1 Cities and Towns ...... 70 17.2 Other destinations ...... 70 17.3 Understand ...... 70 17.4 Talk ...... 71 17.5 Get in ...... 71 17.6 Get around ...... 71 17.7 See ...... 71 17.7.1 Itineraries ...... 71 17.8 Do ...... 71 CONTENTS ix

17.9 Eat ...... 71 17.10Drink ...... 71 17.11Stay safe ...... 71 17.12Go next ...... 71

18 72 18.1 Understand ...... 72 18.2 Get in ...... 72 18.3 Get around ...... 72 18.4 See ...... 72 18.5 Do ...... 72 18.6 Buy ...... 73 18.7 Eat ...... 73 18.8 Drink ...... 73 18.9 Sleep ...... 73 18.10Connect ...... 73 18.11Go next ...... 73

19 74 19.1 Get in ...... 74 19.1.1 By train ...... 74 19.1.2 By marshrutka ...... 74 19.1.3 By car ...... 74 19.2 Get around ...... 75 19.3 See ...... 75 19.3.1 Old city ...... 75 19.3.2 Surroundings ...... 75 19.4 Do ...... 75 19.5 Buy ...... 75 19.6 Eat ...... 75 19.7 Drink ...... 75 19.8 Sleep ...... 76 19.9 Connect ...... 76 19.10Go next ...... 76

20 77 20.1 Get in ...... 77 20.2 Get around ...... 77 20.3 See ...... 77 20.4 Do ...... 77 20.4.1 Borjomi national park ...... 78 20.5 Buy ...... 78 x CONTENTS

20.6 Eat ...... 78 20.7 Drink ...... 78 20.8 Sleep ...... 78 20.9 Go next ...... 79

21 80 21.1 Get in ...... 80 21.2 Get around ...... 80 21.3 See ...... 80 21.4 Do ...... 80 21.5 Buy ...... 80 21.6 Eat ...... 80 21.7 Drink ...... 80 21.8 Sleep ...... 80 21.9 Go next ...... 80

22 Southwestern Georgia 81 22.1 Cities ...... 81 22.2 Other destinations ...... 81 22.3 Understand ...... 81 22.4 Talk ...... 82 22.5 Get in ...... 82 22.5.1 By plane ...... 82 22.5.2 By train ...... 82 22.5.3 By bus ...... 82 22.5.4 By car ...... 82 22.6 Get around ...... 82 22.7 See ...... 82 22.7.1 Parks ...... 82 22.8 Do ...... 83 22.9 Eat ...... 83 22.10Drink ...... 83 22.11Sleep ...... 83 22.12Stay safe ...... 83 22.13Go next ...... 83

23 Aketi 84 23.1 Understand ...... 84 23.2 Get in ...... 84 23.2.1 By bus ...... 84 23.2.2 By car ...... 84 23.3 Get around ...... 84 CONTENTS xi

23.4 See ...... 84 23.5 Do ...... 84 23.6 Buy ...... 84 23.7 Drink ...... 84 23.8 Talk ...... 84 23.9 Go next ...... 85

24 Bakhmaro 86 24.1 Understand ...... 86 24.2 Get in ...... 86 24.2.1 By bus ...... 86 24.2.2 By car ...... 86 24.2.3 By hiking ...... 86 24.3 Get around ...... 86 24.4 See ...... 86 24.5 Do ...... 86 24.6 Buy ...... 87 24.7 Eat ...... 87 24.8 Sleep ...... 87 24.9 Stay healthy ...... 87 24.10Stay connect ...... 87 24.11Go next ...... 87

25 89 25.1 Understand ...... 89 25.1.1 Climate ...... 89 25.1.2 Language ...... 89 25.2 Get in ...... 89 25.2.1 By plane ...... 89 25.2.2 By bus ...... 89 25.2.3 By car ...... 90 25.2.4 By train ...... 90 25.2.5 By boat ...... 90 25.3 Get around ...... 90 25.3.1 By bicycle ...... 90 25.4 See ...... 90 25.4.1 Places of Worship ...... 90 25.4.2 Museums ...... 91 25.4.3 Further afield ...... 91 25.5 Do ...... 91 25.5.1 Theatres ...... 91 25.5.2 Events ...... 91 xii CONTENTS

25.6 Buy ...... 91 25.7 Eat ...... 91 25.8 Drink ...... 92 25.9 Learn ...... 92 25.10Sleep ...... 92 25.10.1 Budget ...... 92 25.10.2 Mid-range ...... 93 25.10.3 Splurge ...... 93 25.11Go next ...... 94 25.11.1 Armenia ...... 94 25.11.2 ...... 94

26 95 26.1 Understand ...... 95 26.2 Get in ...... 95 26.2.1 By plane ...... 95 26.2.2 By train ...... 95 26.2.3 By bus ...... 95 26.2.4 By car ...... 95 26.3 Get around ...... 95 26.4 See ...... 95 26.4.1 Museums ...... 96 26.4.2 near the town ...... 96 26.5 Do ...... 96 26.6 Buy ...... 96 26.7 Eat ...... 97 26.8 Drink ...... 97 26.9 Sleep ...... 97 26.10Talk ...... 97 26.11Connect ...... 97 26.12Stay healthy ...... 97 26.13Go next ...... 98

27 Dvabzu 99 27.1 Get in ...... 99 27.1.1 By train ...... 99 27.1.2 By bus ...... 99 27.1.3 By car ...... 99 27.2 Get around ...... 99 27.3 See ...... 99 27.4 Buy ...... 99 27.5 Sleep ...... 99 CONTENTS xiii

27.6 Talk ...... 99 27.7 Connect ...... 100 27.8 Go next ...... 100

28 Khidistavi 101 28.1 Understand ...... 101 28.2 Get in ...... 101 28.2.1 By plane ...... 101 28.2.2 By train ...... 101 28.2.3 By bus ...... 101 28.2.4 By car ...... 101 28.3 Get around ...... 102 28.4 See ...... 102 28.4.1 Museums ...... 102 28.5 Do ...... 102 28.6 Buy ...... 103 28.7 Eat ...... 103 28.8 Stay safe ...... 103 28.9 Talk ...... 103 28.10Go next ...... 104

29 105 29.1 Understand ...... 105 29.2 Get in ...... 105 29.3 Get around ...... 105 29.4 See ...... 105 29.5 Do ...... 105 29.6 Buy ...... 105 29.7 Eat ...... 105 29.8 Drink ...... 105 29.9 Sleep ...... 105 29.10Connect ...... 105 29.11Go next ...... 105

30 106 30.1 Understand ...... 106 30.2 Get in ...... 106 30.2.1 By plane ...... 106 30.2.2 By train ...... 106 30.2.3 By bus ...... 106 30.2.4 By car ...... 106 30.2.5 By boat ...... 106 xiv CONTENTS

30.3 Get around ...... 106 30.4 See ...... 107 30.4.1 Museums ...... 107 30.4.2 Around the town ...... 107 30.5 Do ...... 108 30.6 Buy ...... 108 30.7 Eat ...... 108 30.8 Drink ...... 108 30.9 Sleep ...... 108 30.10Talk ...... 108 30.11Work ...... 109 30.12Connect ...... 109 30.13Stay safe ...... 109 30.14Stay healthy ...... 109 30.15Go next ...... 109 30.15.1 Beach (only in summer) ...... 109

31 Likhauri 110 31.1 Understand ...... 110 31.2 Get in ...... 110 31.2.1 By train ...... 110 31.2.2 By bus ...... 110 31.2.3 By car ...... 110 31.3 Get around ...... 110 31.4 See ...... 110 31.5 Do ...... 111 31.6 Buy ...... 111 31.7 Eat ...... 111 31.8 Drink ...... 111 31.9 Go next ...... 111

32 Mtispiri 112 32.1 Get in ...... 112 32.1.1 By bus ...... 112 32.1.2 By car ...... 112 32.2 Get around ...... 112 32.3 See ...... 112 32.4 Do ...... 113 32.5 Buy ...... 113 32.6 Drink ...... 113 32.7 Talk ...... 113 32.8 Go next ...... 113 CONTENTS xv

33 Nabeglavi 114 33.1 Understand ...... 114 33.2 Get in ...... 114 33.2.1 By bus ...... 114 33.2.2 By car ...... 114 33.3 Get around ...... 114 33.4 See ...... 114 33.5 Buy ...... 114 33.6 Sleep ...... 115 33.7 Drink ...... 115 33.8 Talk ...... 115 33.9 Go next ...... 115

34 116 34.1 Understand ...... 116 34.2 Get in ...... 116 34.2.1 By plane ...... 116 34.2.2 By train ...... 116 34.2.3 By bus ...... 116 34.2.4 By car ...... 117 34.3 Get around ...... 117 34.4 See ...... 117 34.4.1 Museums and galleries ...... 117 34.4.2 Parks and gardens ...... 118 34.4.3 Around the town ...... 118 34.5 Do ...... 119 34.5.1 Activities ...... 119 34.5.2 Festivals and performances ...... 120 34.5.3 Sports ...... 120 34.6 Buy ...... 120 34.6.1 ATMs ...... 121 34.7 Eat ...... 121 34.7.1 Cafes ...... 121 34.7.2 ...... 121 34.8 Drink ...... 122 34.9 Sleep ...... 122 34.10Talk ...... 122 34.11Learn ...... 122 34.12Work ...... 122 34.13Connect ...... 123 34.14Stay safe ...... 123 34.15Stay healthy ...... 123 xvi CONTENTS

34.16Cope ...... 123 34.17Go next ...... 123 34.17.1 In ...... 123 34.17.2 Other regions ...... 123

35 Sarpi 124 35.1 Understand ...... 124 35.2 Get in ...... 124 35.2.1 Border crossing from Turkey ...... 124 35.3 Get around ...... 124 35.4 See ...... 124 35.5 Do ...... 124 35.6 Buy ...... 124 35.7 Eat ...... 124 35.8 Drink ...... 124 35.9 Sleep ...... 125 35.10Go next ...... 125

36 Shemokmedi 126 36.1 Get in ...... 126 36.1.1 By train ...... 126 36.1.2 By bus ...... 126 36.1.3 By car ...... 126 36.2 Get around ...... 126 36.3 See ...... 126 36.4 Do ...... 127 36.5 Buy ...... 127 36.6 Talk ...... 127 36.7 Go next ...... 127

37 128 37.1 Understand ...... 128 37.2 Get in ...... 128 37.2.1 By train ...... 128 37.2.2 By bus ...... 128 37.2.3 By car ...... 128 37.3 Get around ...... 128 37.4 See ...... 128 37.5 Do ...... 129 37.6 Buy ...... 129 37.7 Eat ...... 129 37.8 Drink ...... 129 CONTENTS xvii

37.9 Sleep ...... 129 37.10Talk ...... 129 37.11Stay safe ...... 130 37.12Cope ...... 130 37.13Go next ...... 130

38 Northwestern Georgia 131 38.1 Regions ...... 131 38.2 Cities ...... 131 38.3 Other destinations ...... 131 38.4 Understand ...... 131 38.5 Talk ...... 132 38.6 Get in ...... 132 38.7 Get around ...... 132 38.8 See ...... 132 38.8.1 Itineraries ...... 132 38.9 Do ...... 132 38.10Eat ...... 132 38.11Drink ...... 132 38.12Stay safe ...... 132 38.13Go next ...... 132

39 Samegrelo 133 39.1 Regions ...... 133 39.2 Cities ...... 133 39.3 Other destinations ...... 133 39.4 Understand ...... 133 39.5 Talk ...... 133 39.6 Get in ...... 133 39.7 Get around ...... 133 39.7.1 To open Samegrel ...... 133 39.7.2 Wild nature ...... 133 39.7.3 Chkhorotskhu region ...... 133 39.7.4 Kvatsantsara (Eng. Dancing rock) ...... 133 39.7.5 -Ganmukhuri ...... 133 39.7.6 Kheta fortress - Monastery of - Nodjikhevi ...... 133 39.7.7 Tobavarchkhili (Eng. Silver lake) ...... 133 39.7.8 hydroelectric plant ...... 134 39.7.9 Rukhi fortress - Lia fortress - “Dida Kirsa” archeological place ...... 134 39.7.10 Traditional village life - Tsaishi ...... 134 39.7.11 Discover of Mountain Urta ...... 134 39.7.12 Get to know ...... 134 xviii CONTENTS

39.8 See ...... 134 39.8.1 Itineraries ...... 134 39.9 Do ...... 134 39.10Eat ...... 134 39.11Drink ...... 134 39.12Stay safe ...... 134 39.13Go next ...... 134

40 135 40.1 Get in ...... 135 40.1.1 By plane ...... 135 40.1.2 By train ...... 135 40.1.3 By bus ...... 135 40.1.4 By car ...... 135 40.1.5 By boat ...... 135 40.2 Get around ...... 135 40.3 See ...... 135 40.3.1 Further afield ...... 135 40.4 Do ...... 135 40.5 Buy ...... 135 40.6 Eat ...... 135 40.7 Drink ...... 135 40.8 Sleep ...... 135 40.9 Connect ...... 136 40.10Go next ...... 136

41 Zugdidi 137 41.1 Understand ...... 137 41.2 Get in ...... 137 41.3 Get around ...... 137 41.4 See ...... 137 41.5 Do ...... 137 41.6 Buy ...... 137 41.7 Eat ...... 137 41.8 Sleep ...... 137 41.9 Connect ...... 137 41.10Go next ...... 137

42 138 42.1 Regions ...... 138 42.2 Cities ...... 138 42.3 Other destinations ...... 138 CONTENTS xix

42.4 Understand ...... 138 42.5 Talk ...... 138 42.6 Get in ...... 139 42.6.1 By plane ...... 139 42.6.2 By car ...... 139 42.6.3 By train ...... 139 42.7 Get around ...... 139 42.8 See ...... 139 42.8.1 Itineraries ...... 139 42.9 Do ...... 140 42.10Eat ...... 140 42.11Drink ...... 140 42.12Sleep ...... 140 42.13Stay safe ...... 141 42.14Go next ...... 141

43 Mazeri 142 43.1 Understand ...... 142 43.2 Get in ...... 142 43.3 See ...... 142 43.4 Do ...... 142 43.5 Svaneti trekking routes from Mazeri (Mount Ushba) ...... 142 43.5.1 Mazeri - Mount Ushba glacier trekking ...... 142 43.5.2 Mazeri - Baki pass - Etseri trekking ...... 142 43.5.3 Mazeri - Guli pass - Koruldi lakes - trekking ...... 142 43.6 Eat ...... 142 43.7 Drink ...... 143 43.8 Sleep ...... 143 43.9 Connect ...... 143 43.10Go next ...... 143

44 Mestia 144 44.1 Understand ...... 144 44.1.1 Tourist Centre ...... 144 44.2 Get in ...... 144 44.2.1 By plane ...... 144 44.2.2 By helicopter ...... 145 44.2.3 By train ...... 145 44.2.4 By bus ...... 145 44.2.5 By car ...... 145 44.3 Get around ...... 145 44.4 See ...... 145 xx CONTENTS

44.5 Do ...... 146 44.5.1 Hiking routes ...... 146 44.5.2 Skiing ...... 146 44.6 Buy ...... 146 44.7 Eat ...... 146 44.8 Drink ...... 146 44.9 Sleep ...... 146 44.9.1 Becho village ...... 147 44.10Connect ...... 147 44.11Go next ...... 148

45 149 45.1 Understand ...... 149 45.2 Get in ...... 149 45.2.1 On foot ...... 149 45.3 Get around ...... 149 45.4 See ...... 149 45.5 Do ...... 149 45.6 Buy ...... 150 45.7 Eat ...... 150 45.8 Drink ...... 150 45.9 Sleep ...... 150 45.10Connect ...... 150 45.11Go next ...... 150 45.12Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses ...... 151 45.12.1 Text ...... 151 45.12.2 Images ...... 153 45.12.3 Content license ...... 158 Chapter 1

Georgia (country)

For other places with the same name, see Georgia (disambiguation).

Georgia (Georgian: საქართველო, Sakartvelo) is a country in the . It lies at the eastern end of the , with Turkey and Armenia to the south, Azerbaijan to the east, and to the north, over the .

1.1 Regions

Shardeni Street in Old Tbilisi

• Kutaisi — Georgia’s second city and the historic capital of ancient , home to two UNESCO World Heritage sites • Mtskheta — the historic former capital of East- ern Georgia, the center of the , and another UNESCO World Heritage site Regions of Georgia is an easy day trip from Tbilisi • Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a good jumping off point for nearby wineries, castles, and monaster- 1.2 Cities ies • • Tbilisi — the beautiful and interesting capital, Geor- Ozurgeti — the capital of Guria is a good jumping gia’s largest and most cosmopolitan city off point for nearby beaches, mountain resorts and old monasteries • Akhaltsikhe — the small capital of Samtskhe- Javakheti is near two fabulously beautiful tourist destinations: Vardzia and the 1.3 Other destinations • Batumi — the palm tree lined capital city of Ajara on the Black Sea, near some good swimming • The Georgian Military Highway — running through unbelievable high mountain scenery along danger- • Borjomi — a picturesque small city with famous ously steep curves, from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz, mineral water, a national park, and a summer palace Russia. of the Russian Romanov dynasty • Kakheti wineries — especially the Tsinandali Es- • Gori — Stalin’s hometown, located next to yet an- tate, home to an old Romanov palace, beautiful other cave city grounds, and some delicious wines

1 2 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

North-Western Georgia Tsminda Sameba church, 2200m high, and mighty Caucasus mountains in the back, raising more than 4000m above the sea are not , Turks or Persians, nor do level they have any ethnic connection with other people. How- ever, there are theories which link Georgians to Basque, • Mount Kazbeg — one of the highest mountains in Corsican and North Caucasian people. Georgia is a multi- is also home to Tsminda Sameba, one of ethnic state, the dominant ethnic group are the Kartveli, the most spectacularly situated monasteries in the but other significant Georgian ethnic groups include the world Mingreli, Laz, and Svan (all of whom speak Georgian languages distinct from the national language, Kartuli). • David Gareja Monastery Complex — a 6th-century is in its own language group, com- cave monastery on a mountain overlooking the pletely unrelated to Indo-European or Semitic languages. Azerbaijani desert, with beautiful frescoes Georgians have been embroiled in struggles against the world’s biggest empires (Mongol, Persian, Ottoman, Rus- • Upper Svaneti — the highest inhabited region of Eu- sian, etc.) for centuries. This little country was invaded rope, centered around Mestia, is home to the myste- many times and destroyed as many. However, Georgians rious and is a UNESCO World Heritage site have managed to preserve their cultural and traditional identity for 9,000 years. The countryside is covered with • Vardzia — a 12th-century cave monastery and city ancient towered fortifications, many of which house an- overlooking a large river gorge cient churches (including one of the oldest in Christen- dom) and monasteries. • Uplistsikhe — a 3,600 year old Silk Road cave city that was a major regional center of Caucasian pagan was introduced into Georgia in the first cen- religion tury, and became the official national in the mid fourth century (Georgia was the second nation to • ski slopes — one time Winter Olympics adopt Christianity, after Armenia) with the evangelism bid and the major ski in the south of the coun- of St Nino of . The Georgian cross is recog- try nizable, for it was forged by St Nino with grape vines and her own hair. The grape and the vine thus hold important • Pasanauri ski slopes — the main in the places in Georgian symbolism. Georgian Mountains, along the The conversion to Christianity meant that Georgians Georgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda would have a historical cultural leaning to the West in- stead of with the Muslims in the region (Turkey and Per- sia to the South). Nonetheless, Georgian culture stands at 1.4 Understand the cross-roads of civilizations. Its culture and traditions are the product of the influence of its neighbors and of its Georgia is a land filled with magnificent history and un- own unique civilization. paralleled natural beauty. Archaeologists found the old- During the Soviet era, Georgia was the “Riviera of the est traces of wine production (7000–5000 BC) in Geor- ” and was renowned for its cuisine and wine. gia and even more interesting the remnants of oldest (1.8 Russians may love vodka, but the Georgian wines were million of years) hominids out of Africa were discovered favoured by the Soviet elite. During Soviet era, Geor- in Georgia. For those of us in the West, we unfortunately gia flooded Russian markets with high quality tea, wine get precious little exposure to this stretch of land between and fruits. The Georgian Black Sea coast, in particular the Black and Caspian seas. However, this is changing ( and Adjaria), enjoys sub-tropical conditions drastically. and beautiful beaches (imagine pine trees and mountains 1.5. GET IN 3 covering the coast line). 1.5 Get in Georgia, on the periphery of the Soviet Union, also con- tributed greatly to the dissolution of the Soviet Union 1.5.1 Visas with nationalist calls for independence (and the Geor- gians have catalyzed the dissolution of empires before). Citizens of Albania, Andorra, Antigua and Bar- Georgia stood on one of the key routes of the Silk Road buda, Argentina, Australia, Bahrain, Barbados, and now plays a significant geopolitical role, being lo- Belize, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Brazil, cated at the crossroads of Central , Russia, Eu- Brunei, Canada, Costa Rica, Chile, The European rope, and the Middle East, and currently contains impor- Union, , Iceland,Iraq, , Japan, Kuwait, tant oil pipelines leading from Azerbaijan to the Turkish Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Mauritius, Mexico, Monaco, Mediterranean coast. New Zealand, , Oman, Panama, Philippines, This proud nation is still in transition after the fall of the Qatar, Russia, Kitts and Nevis, San Marino, Saudi Soviet Union. Tense relations with Russia (and deepen- Arabia, Serbia, Seychelles, Singapore, South Africa, ing friendship with the USA and the EU) has led Russia South Korea, , Thailand, Trinidad and to close its markets to Georgian exports, badly affect- Tobago, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, United States, ing the Georgian economy. Russia has closed its bor- Uruguay, Vatican City and CIS nations need no visa to der with Georgia since 2006, while Russia’s allies, the visit Georgia for up to 90 days (2014) (Russia— up to separatist regions of South and Abkhazia, have 90 days, visas not required since March 2012) . also closed their borders with Georgia, and have main- Additionally, citizens of any member state of the tained the strict economic embargo against Georgia ever European Union can enter Georgia with their sole identity since. In 2008, the country went to war against Russia card . over , in which the Georgians were defeated If you are not from one of the above countries, you can within days, leading Georgia to lose 17% of its territory, get a visa from a Georgian embassy or consulate. Russia to diplomatically recognizing both separatist re- gions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia, and the severance Visas are also issued at the official road and air (but not of diplomatic relations with Russia, which had a serious rail or sea) entry points into Georgia. impact on the economy. The standard fee for a 90-day, single-entry “ordinary” Imagine cities with narrow side streets filled with lean- visa, which covers , is 60 GEL or its equivalent. ing houses, overstretched balconies, mangled and twisted Double-entry 90-day visas (only available at consulates) stairways, majestic old churches, heavenly food and are 90 GEL. warm and welcoming people. All of this with a back- Visa-issuing procedures are pretty straightforward and drop of magnificent snow peaked mountains, and the best can normally be completed in a matter of minutes at en- beaches of the Black Sea. try points to Georgia, although consulates require a few days for processing.

Border crossings

1.4.1 People Georgia’s international entry and exit points are as fol- lows. Visas, for those who need them, are available at the The Georgians have exceptionally strong traditions of road and air entry points only. hospitality, chivalry, and codes of personal honour. They believe that guests come from God. Friendship is prized • Batumi International airport (visas available) and highest among all the virtues. It is celebrated in Shota Black Sea port (visas not available). Rustaveli’s national epic, The Knight in the • Böyük Kəsik Rail border with Azerbaijan – visas not Tiger’s Skin ("ვეფხისტყაოსანი" or "Vepkhistqaosani"), available here. in which a person’s worth is judged by the depth of his friendships. The Georgians are proud, passionate, and • Guguti/Tashir Road border with Armenia. fiercely individualistic, yet deeply connected with each other by a shared sense of belonging to a greater Geor- • Krasny Most (Red Bridge, Tsiteli Khidi, Qırmızı gian family. Women are highly esteemed in society and Körpü) Road border with Azerbaijan. are accorded a chivalric respect. The statue of Mother of • Georgia (kartlis deda) that stands in the hills above Tbil- /Bavra Road border with Armenia. isi perhaps best symbolizes the national character: in her • Poti Black Sea port – visas not available here. left hand she holds a bowl of wine with which she greets her friends and in her right is a sword drawn against her • Sadakhlo/Bagratashen Road and rail border with enemies. Armenia – visas available for road travellers only. 4 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• Sarpi/Sarp Road border with Turkey. Flights to and other Russian cities are still irreg- ular, given the current state of affairs between two coun- • Tbilisi International airport. tries. • Tsodna (Postbina) Road border with Azerbaijan, Rapidly expanding tourist infrastructure (Black Sea re- between and Balakən. sorts along Georgian coastline, ski resorts in the moun- tains Ajara region and in Svaneti) led to opening more • Vale/Posof Road border with Turkey, reached via international airports (most recently in ski resort of Mes- Akhaltsikhe. tia), and along with recent ranking as one of the safest countries in Europe and rapidly improving infrastructure, The border with Russia at Zemo Larsi/Chertov Most, the number of tourists is increasing. north of Kazbegi, was only open to Georgians and Rus- sians for several years until 2006, when Russia closed it (“temporarily”) to everybody. However, there is an 1.5.3 By bus open border crossing point with Russia at Verkhniy Lars (Верхний Ларс). It does not issue visa. There are direct bus services from , Turkey, The crossings from Russia into South Ossetia (the Roki which stop at various places en-route and terminate in Tunnel) and Abkhazia ( River between and Tbilisi. There are also several non-stop bus services be- Adler) are considered illegal by Georgia. Some travellers tween Tbilisi and , Azerbaijan. There are even di- who continued on into Georgia after entering South Os- rect buses connecting Tbilisi to Thessaloniki and , setia or Abkhazia from Russia have been fined or jailed. which both have Georgian expat communities. Others have got away without problems. Visiting Abkhazia from Georgia is possible, but it is not 1.5.4 By minibus possible to visit South Ossetia from Georgia. There are many minibuses (sing. samarshruto taxi; pl. 1.5.2 By plane samarshruto taxebi) that operate international routes to and from cities and large towns in Georgia. Minibuses run between Georgia and Russia (and despite the cur- There are flights to Tbilisi from a number of European, rent state of affairs between two countries, are more reli- North American and Asian cities, including London (bmi able and more accessible than the often irregular flights to ), ( ), Vienna (Austrian Airlines), Russia), Azerbaijan, Armenia, Iran, and Iraq. In Tbilisi, Warsaw (LOT Airlines), Kiev (Georgian Airways), Mu- these routes usually originate and terminate at bus stations nich (Lufthansa), Athens (Georgian Airways), (air- and the subway station. Outside Tbilisi, minibus Baltic, ), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), Prague (Czech Air- routes may stop at either bus stations or central locations lines). Just recently, KLM cancelled their flights to (town squares). Tbilisi but you can fly with Georgian Airways from/to Amsterdam. Belavia (Belarusian National Airlines ) is now offering daily direct flights from to Tbilisi at 1.5.5 By car great rates, and there are plenty of connecting flights from European cities to Minsk, e.g. from Amsterdam (transit Entering with a car is no major problem. It is recom- visa is not required if you fly to Georgia). Please note mended to carry a power of attorney with you if you are that Georgian Airways (AirZena) has many flights from not the car owner. A sticker containing the car plate num- many different cities. See also airBaltic for cheap flights ber will be affixed to your in connection with the to many European destinations. entry stamp. In the past, the International Insurance Card The airport in Batumi reopened in May 2007. Turk- was not valid for Georgia, purchasing insurance at the en- ish Airlines flights run every day between Batumi and try point was necessary (even though the amount covered Istanbul. Other destinations serviced by the Batumi air- to be ridiculously low). Note that only the driver may en- port include Kharkov, Kiev and (from 15 September ter the control area with the car, anyone else in the car 2010) Minsk (twice per week with Belavia). The Batumi has to use the pedestrians’ lane. airport is located about 10 km south of the city center and Traffic laws are now strictly enforced—one of Mikheil is accessible by minibus and taxi. Saakashvili’s first steps as president was to disband the There is also a nice, combined travel with Wizzair to Ku- uncorruptibly corrupt traffic police. Norms are strictly taisi. The passengers fly from London-Luton, Doncaster observed, in the cities and on the highways throughout the or every other destination served from Katowice on Mon- country. The most important norm to be aware of is that day and Friday evenings to Katowice and then after 2 passing occurs in the middle of the road, and on both hour-brake fly directly to Kutaisi. The return route is the lanes are expected to move to the outside of their own lane same and it’s often much cheaper than any of the regular to make this as safe as possible. Roads within Tbilisi and airlines. For the tickets visit Wizzair. other major cities are typically very smooth and safe, but 1.6. GET AROUND 5

country roads are often in utter disrepair. Though traf- fic laws are enforced, driving is still completely chaotic. Drunk driving is a major problem, drivers will often pass with little room between vehicles, speed limits and right- of-way are rarely obeyed, pedestrians will walk into traf- fic without so much as a glance in either direction, and of course, a random herd of cattle will occasionally slow traffic to a standstill. An adventurous traveler may find an automobile a convenient way to tour the country, but with the abundance of taxis, buses, and marshrutkas, the aver- age traveler would be better off in the passenger’s seat.

1.5.6 By train Rustaveli National Theater in Tbilisi

There are train services from Baku, Azerbaijan which stop at various places on the route and terminate in 1.6.2 Minibus Tbilisi. Note that the “BP train” has been canceled. Con- struction of railroad linking the Turkish town of to Minibuses are locally called marshrutkas, and they oper- Baku, Azerbaijan-including both a new line and modern- ate on established routes. After finding out the number ization of existing lines-is underway and will be finished of your route, flag down a marshrutka on the street by sometime between 2010–2012 This will establish a direct holding out your hand, palm facing down. link from Tbilisi to Istanbul and farther to Europe as well as a faster, more comfortable ride into Azerbaijan. Also, There are also minibus lines from city to city. Their there is service from Yerevan, Armenia. routes end usually at bus stations and city markets. Their destination is written in Georgian, on a sign in the front window. Ask marshrutka drivers if you cannot find the minibus you are looking for. 1.5.7 By boat

There are boat services to Batumi and Poti from Istanbul 1.6.3 By train and Odessa. At the time of writing, the Turkish Black Sea port of Trabzon was closed to passenger services. Be also There is a relatively extensive network of trains in Geor- aware that Georgian port of is closed for any gia. the website of the train company is http://www. cargo or passenger boats apart from those with humani- railway.ge. Trains are rather slow, but also very cheap. tarian purposes. All vessels going to Sukhumi must un- So, if you plan to go from Tblisi to e.g. the Black Sea dergo border check with Georgian coast guard in nearby coast, it is well worth your while to consider to take a port of Poti. sleeper train in stead of spending x hours in a Marshurtka.

1.6 Get around 1.6.4 By bike

1.6.1 Taxi As the country is relatively mountainous, you should con- sider a mountain bike. Many roads remain unpaved. But by bike allows you to reach more remote regions. You Taxis in Georgia are the most convenient method of can rent mountain bikes in bigger towns, for example at travel, and they are very cheap. Trips within Tbilisi range the Jomardi club in Tbilisi. from 3 to 5 lari, depending on distance, and you can ne- gotiate a price with the cab drivers. The vast majority of taxis in Georgia used to be unofficial “gypsy cabs”, driven by anyone looking to make some money. Such unmarked 1.6.5 City Bus taxi service in Georgia was safe and widely used by for- eigners living and visiting the country. Drivers would, There are new Dutch buses operating in Tbilisi. More or however, exaggerate the price for foreigners—it was best less comfortable (they have no air conditioning), they are to establish your destination and price before getting in the cheapest way to go around (for 40 tetri). However, the cab. Situation changed a few years ago when all offi- the buses are old and slow in the Georgian countryside cial taxis were obligated to install meters with fixed rates. and outside Tbilisi. 6 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

are ripping us off”. This combination of formidable con- sonant clusters and an original alphabet make Georgian a hard language to acquire. Everyone who visits should attempt to learn at least a few Georgian or Russian words. People most likely to under- stand Russian include: older generations, non-Georgian citizens like Azeris, , , Ossetes, etc. most of whom are not fluent in Georgian (the rea- son was that Russian was compulsory during the Soviet period, whereas the local languages of each Soviet state were not) and thus use Russian as a lingua franca, mem- bers of the elite (who are likely to speak more English than Russian). Speaking Russian is useful and recom- mended in areas where ethnic minorities live, especially in the regions of where 50% of the popula- tion is ethnic Azeri and Samtskhe-Javakheti where 50% of the population is ethnic Armenian. The younger generation, largely due to hostility towards Russia, now prefers to study English. The access to good quality English instruction in province was low, how- ever recently many schools got native English speaking teacher and English is rapidly becoming a second lan- guage nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people; they are more likely to know some En- glish. Finally, signs in Georgia are rarely bilingual (apart from Ghergeti glacier ) or some stores; however, most road signs are in both the Georgian and Latin alphabets. Basic knowledge of the Georgian alphabet is very useful to un- 1.6.6 Mountain Travel derstand road signs, store/ names, and bus des- tinations. Those traveling without knowledge of Geor- To get to the more remote regions of Georgia (e.g., gian should carry a phrasebook or travel with a guide. , , etc.) without a tour company, buses and taxis will only take you so far. At some point, it will become necessary to hike, catch a ride on a goods- 1.8 See transporting truck, or hire a jeep. Catching a lorry re- quires that you are flexible in your travel plans. Hiring a jeep can actually be quite expensive because of the There are three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Geor- high cost of gas caused by scarcity in the remote regions. gia: To find out about either option, ask around at the bus station or central market of the last town on the bus or • and in the Rioni marshrutka line. region.

• The historical monuments of Mtskheta.

1.7 Talk • The Upper Svaneti region which is the highest in- habited region in Europe. See also: Georgian phrasebook Moreover the capital of Tbilisi offers a range of sights, For language fans, Georgian and its related languages are among them it’s Old town with the Narikala Fortress. a real treat. For everyone else, they could be a nightmare. Gori, the birth city of Stalin also hosts a castle, the church Georgian is a Caucasian language which is not in any way of Gori Jvari and the ruins of Uplistsikhe, a bustling town related to any languages spoken outside of Georgia, and over 3,000 years ago. Other places to visit are the mineral it’s famous for its consonants. Not only are there quite a water town of Borjomi, popular among Russian Czars slew, but many, possibly even most, words start off with and the Black Sea beach resort city of Batumi. In addition at least two and it’s possible to string together as many to that, Georgia is located in the middle of the Caucasus as eight, as in gvprtskvni (გვფრცქვნი), figurative for “you mountains with some peaks reaching over 5,000m. 1.11. EAT 7

1.9 Do are Goodwill, Big Ben or Populi. The same applies to mineral water. 1.10 Buy The quality of wine making improved immensely in re- cent years following re-orientation of wine exports to EU markets. 1.10.1 Shopping

• Gold & Other Jewellery – Gold, silver, handmade 1.10.2 Costs & other miscellaneous jewellery and precious stones are very cheap in Georgia and the quality of the pre- Currency: Lari, 100 tetri = 1 lari cious stones, gold and silver is superb. Many for- Currency code: GEL eigners visit Georgia to buy jewellery because of its Exchange rates: cost and quality. 1 USD = 2.24 GEL (April 2015) 1 EUR = 2.42 GEL (April 2015) • Art & Paintings – Georgian artists, such as Piros- 1 GBP = 3.32 GEL (April 2015) mani, Gigo Gabashvili, David Kakabadze, Lado When exchanging money in banks you may be asked to Gudiashvili, Korneli Sanadze, Elene Akhvlediani, present your ID. In the small money changers’ booths Sergo Kobuladze, Simon Virsaladze, Ekaterine available almost anywhere in the country, this is not nec- Baghdavadze and others, are famous for their work. essary. These booths may also have slightly better ex- In Georgia you will find many art shops, paintings change rates. Exchange money before the travelling out- and painters who sell their works on the streets. side Tbilisi as exchange rates are better than in rural ar- Their work is of high quality and is often very good eas. The is a closed currency, change the re- value. mainder of your money back before leaving the country. • Antiques & Other Miscellaneous Gifts – in Georgia Most importantly, be aware that some Georgian ATMs you will able to find many antiques not only from other than those in Tbilisi may not accept foreign cards. Georgia, but Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Rus- This can be a potentially serious problem if you are caught sian and European as well. without cash during non-business hours or on weekends, so have some cash. Also, while prices are generally very • , as much as you can. Georgia is the reasonable in Georgia, a side effect is that many small es- cradle of wine making, and with 521 original vari- tablishments and taxis will not have change for large lari eties of grape you will be sure to find excellent wines. notes (especially 50 or higher), so travelers are advised to carry plenty of smaller notes and coins. • Cognac. Georgian cognac is unique as it is made from Georgian wine. Try Saradjishvili 'Tbilisi' If you visit Georgia for one week, you would have a great cognac. time if you bring $700–$800 USD with you. With this amount you will be able to stay in a good , go on • When heading outside the cities, you might find an wonderful sightseeing tours and eat good food. All other original hand-made carpet for sale. items such as gifts & jewellery might require more. For more details try searching and contacting travel & tourist • Georgians love to drink, so the country has a seem- agencies. ingly infinite number of , wines, liquors and A budget traveler would have little difficulty getting by distilled drinks. To take home, buy a bottle of (and staying very well fed) on less than $150–$200 per chacha, a potent grape vodka somewhat similar to week, even in the capital. Allow another $30–$50 for Lebanese . travel and sightseeing. (November 2008)

Georgian export commodities (especially wine and min- eral water) used to be widely counterfeited in the - 1.10.3 Tipping tic and CIS markets. For example, the Borjomi bottling plant used to produce roughly one million bottles of Bor- Tipping in Georgia is virtually unknown, and in many jomi per year, but there were three million bottles sold in cases could deeply offend the recipient’s sense of hos- Russia alone! pitality. Recent update (Dec 2007): government together with business circles has initiated a large-scale fight against counterfeit wine and mineral water so the sale of coun- 1.11 Eat terfeit products has almost been eliminated. However, when stocking up on bottled wine, it is best to buy it at 1.11.1 Types of places to eat large supermarkets which have better control of their pro- curement compared to smaller stores. Such supermarkets • usual restaurant (more expensive) 8 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• restaurant (sasadilo) - cafeteria level dinery, which 1.11.4 Home food may be very tasty and cheaper than restaurants If you can, try to get yourself invited to dinner at some- • cafe, street-food one’s home (this is not too difficult in Georgia, owing to • beer bar, pub (ludis-bari) their hospitality and general desire to stuff foreign vis- itors full of all the food they can afford). The food in • sakhinkle (სახინკლე) - places specially for restaurants is an odd set piece of the same dishes over and khinkali, where you may found other dishes as well over. But Georgian cuisine is far richer, and has an un- told number of dishes to try, prepared from scratch with • sapurmari - special gathering places in nature, where fresh, locally grown products (although supermarkets are a stranger and foreigner may be easily invited now spreading throughout Georgia).

1.11.2 Popular dishes 1.12 Drink The cuisine of Georgia is justly famous throughout the former Soviet Union (visitors to Moscow will have no- 1.12.1 Chacha ticed the amount of Georgian restaurants). Popular na- tional dishes include (a filled bread, it Chacha (ჭაჭა) is a home-made fruit-based distilled clear more resembles cheese ) and khinkali (minced, spiced spirit (liquor), analogous to Italian grappa. Chacha is meat in a dumpling, served in enormous quantities). made of grape pomace (grape residue left after mak- While the khachapuri comes with every meal (and it is ing wine). It can also be produced from non-ripe or very possible to get tired of this), khinkali is usually re- non-cultured grapes and in some cases fig, tangerine, served for its own separate meal, where Georgian men orange, or mulberry. It is usually bottled “manually”. will down 15 huge dumplings like it is no big deal. It can be purchased in Mom and Pop corner markets, Mtsvadi, tasty grilled chunks of marinaded pork or veal Farmers Markets, back alleys and basements through- on stick with , is another staple. But this is by no out Georgia. There is also commercially-made chacha means the end of the list of wonderful dishes, usually fla- that can be found in some shops and supermarkets. The vored with garlic, coriander, walnuts, and dill. A tradi- term “Chacha” is used in Georgia to refer to any type of tional Georgian feast (supra) is truly a sight to behold, “moonshine” made of fruits. with a spread that no group could finish, accompanied by at least 20 toasts set to wine or brandy. Another streak of 1.12.2 Wine dishes made out of lamb (chanakhi, chakapuli) is simply delicious. For a quick snack, you can try all variety of ghvezeli stuffed with meat, potatoes, cheese, or other ingredients, usually sold in markets and on the side of the street. Be aware of western-style dishes (, hamburgers etc.) though, which are usually a pale copy of their true selves. It is much better to try local food. The fruit and vegetables here are bursting at the seams with flavor, and very cheap. Even if you only speak En- glish and stand out as a foreigner like a slug in a spotlight, you can get fruit and vegetables in the market for a mere fraction of what you would pay in, say, Western Europe. Grabbing a quick meal of tomatoes, fresh cheese, (bread), and fruit is perhaps the most rewarding meal to have in the country.

Saperavi wines 1.11.3 Vegetarian dishes Georgia has one of the oldest wine-making traditions in There a lot of vegetarian dishes (mostly in western parts the world and has been called the birthplace of wine of Georgia) which are surprisingly tasty and accompany (also as “Cradle of Wine”), due to archaeological findings most of local parties with heavy wine drinking. Try to get which indicate wine production back to 5000 BC. Due to your hands on ajapsandali, a sort of vegetable ratatouille, this fact, Georgians have some of the best wines in the made differently according to each family’s recipe, and world. Thanks to the ancient tradition of wine produc- which is wonderful. tion and amazing climate, Georgian wine holds its strong 1.13. SLEEP 9 competition with French and Italian. Definitely try out • Kazbegi (ყაზბეგი q'ahz-beh-gee) Georgian wine. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to export home-bottled wine, which is often the best kind. • Khevsuruli Georgian wines are actually quite famous. It may be true • that they are little known in the West, but this definitely Lomisi does not include some 280 million people in the former • Natakhtari Soviet Union where Georgian wines remain a welcomed drink at any dining table. • Tushuri

Red 1.12.4 Mineral Waters • (საფერავი sah-peh-rah-vee) Georgian mineral waters have exceptional and interesting • Mukuzani (მუკუზანი moo-k'oo-zah-nee) tastes — very different from French and Italian varieties. The most famous Georgian mineral waters are Borjomi • Khvanchkara (ხვანჭკარა khvahnch-k'ah-rah) - (ბორჯომი bohr-joh-mee), Likani (ლიკანი lick-ah-nee), semi-sweet and Nabeglavi (ნაბეღლავი nah-beh-ghlah-vee). But • Kindzmarauli (კინძმარაული keendz-mah-rah-oo- there is a plethora of less well-known springs located in lee) - semi-sweet small towns and alongside roads throughout the country that is worth sampling. Be forewarned that Borjomi isn't just ordinary sparkling water - it has a very high fluoride White content and it may take some time to get used to the taste. It is however quite popular also outside Georgia (in the • Tsinandali (წინანდალი ts’ee-nahn-dah-lee) former Soviet republics). • Kakheti (კახეთი k'ah-kheh-tee) • Tbilisuri (თბილისური tbee-lee-soo-ree) 1.12.5 Lagidze Waters (Soft Drink)

Mitrofan Lagidze (ლაღიძე lah-ghee-dzeh) is a surname Imports of Georgian wine and mineral water have been of a very famous Georgian businessman of the 19th cen- banned by the Russian government, because of the polit- tury who produced very popular soft drinks in Georgia. ical tension between the two counties. Nowadays these waters are called “the Lagidze Waters”. Lagidze soft drinks are made only with natural fruit com- 1.12.3 Beer ponents, without any chemical, artificial sugars or other additives. The most popular flavors are estragon/tarragon Georgia produces a growing number of local beers. A and cream&chocolate. You can find them bottled in beer tradition has existed in Georgia since ancient times stores. in the mountainous regions of Khevsureti and . After independence from the Soviet Union, Georgia re- vived its beer production and introduced its high quality 1.13 Sleep beers to the market. The first and most popular Geor- gian beer was Kazbegi. Today, beer production in Geor- The number of major Western in Georgia is grow- gia is still growing, offering high quality beers (thanks to ing every year, and not only in Tbilisi, but also in Ba- the high quality mountain spring waters in Georgia and tumi and other Georgian cities. Throughout much of the to German designed beer factories). There are also many countryside, however, private homes are the cheapest and foreign beers such as Heineken, Bitburger, Lowenbrau, most enjoyable option, though this option is very much a Guinness, etc. ; expect little privacy. In general, accommoda- tion in Georgia, particularly outside of Tbilisi and Ba- Georgian Beer tumi, is overpriced, and as tourism remains a fledgling industry, service at hotels often leaves something to be • Aluda desired (such as a lack of toilet paper). • Argo • Batumuri 1.14 Learn • Bavariis Herzogi There are a handful of universities in Georgia which offer • Kasri degrees or exchange programs taught in English: 10 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• University of Georgia Georgian schools all over the country to assist local teach- ers in public schools. The Georgian government has set • Grigol Robakidze University ambitious goals to make English the second language of the country (replacing Russian) by 2020. Participants in • International Black Sea University (English exclu- the program will have their airfare paid for, will be housed sively) with a local family and will receive 400–500 GEL stipend a month. The program has recently been scaled back, and • Caucasus University will not be placing new teachers until August 2013. How- • Georgian American University (English exclusively) ever, there are a handful of language schools, especially in Tbilisi that pay roughly the same, though without pro- • European School of Management-Tbilisi viding airfare, room, or board.

• Kutaisi University of Law and Economics

• Intensive Georgian Language Workshop for Begin- 1.16 Stay safe ners, American Councils Most of Georgia is very safe for travelers. Crime rates are among the lowest in Europe. and a few others... Corruption, once a big hassle for tourists, has become far less visible since the . It is now safe and 1.15 Work reasonable to trust the Georgian police, as the infamous and corrupt traffic police have been disbanded. Police cars patrol streets in Georgian cities and towns regularly, Georgians are hard-working people in general, but they and can help in case of car trouble or any other problem also like to have enough free time to enjoy life. Work on the road. can start at 10:00 or 11:00 and end at 18:00–19:00. Geor- gians like to take an hour lunch break and enjoy their food Use of seat belts is now obligatory and strictly enforced. while socializing with their co-workers. People often take Radars are installed at all main junctures and on key two weeks or a whole month off work to enjoy - streets and highways throughout the country. However, ing with family. It is an attitude in many ways similar to Georgia leads the South Caucasus in reported road traffic southern Europe and Mediterranean ones. Approaches to accidents. A person is injured every hour in a traffic re- punctuality used to be very relaxed, but this is now chang- lated accident, while one death occurs every 18 hours, ac- ing (at least, in Tbilisi and other main cities). cording to a study released by Georgian NGO, Safe Driv- ing Association. The World Health Organization puts the Foreigners from most countries, including all major number at 16.8 fatalities per 100,000 a year (compared English-speaking countries and EU members, are allowed to Azerbaijan at 13 and Armenia at 13.9). to live visa-free in Georgia for 360 days (and can renew their stay by leaving and re-entering), and to work and The Georgian Ministry of Internal Affairs provides some engage in business without a visa. Despite this, work useful information for foreign visitors. for foreigners is generally very limited due to the local Women should be aware that many Georgian men do not salaries being below a living wage by most standards, even believe “no” means no. They believe that no means maybe for people from other parts of Eastern Europe and the and maybe means yes. It is not uncommon for men to be more “well off” former USSR countries like Estonia and very pushy with foreign women especially. It is best to Lithuania. A local wage will typically be around 300– stay with groups and not to smile or give men attention. 400 GEL a month, with only a small section of profes- If you make a Georgian friend or get to know a Georgian sional managers making in the range of 2000–2500 GEL man well, they will take care of you when you go out. a month. Having said that, most Georgian families have There are many kind Georgian men but keep your guard one or more apartments and houses out in the countryside, up. and when one does not have to pay full private sector rent and can share utilities, the local wages will be sufficient for food and drink. 1.16.1 Tbilisi Foreigners working in Georgia are either employed by the main NGOs like the UNHCR, Save the Children, Dan- Things in Tbilisi and the surrounding countryside have ish Refugee Council, etc. Some large Georgian com- calmed down a lot in the last several years. Although panies may employ foreign managers and consultants. Tbilisi sometimes has been singled out for its (not always These workers are generally salaried according to West- deserved) reputation for street crime, mugging is rather a ern norms. One great way for travelers to experience rare phenomenon. Georgia is to participate in the Teach & Learn with Geor- Other crime-related hazards in Tbilisi used to include gia program. This program places English-speakers in apartment break-ins and car-jacking, but the situation has 1.17. STAY HEALTHY 11

Georgian King Gorgasali overlooking Tbilisi Ushba Mountain, in the Caucasus Mountains of Svaneti

1.16.4 The Mountains changed dramatically, and today Georgia boasts one of the lowest crime rates in Europe. The mountainous areas of Georgia are remote and lightly policed. The regions of the Georgian Upper Caucasus that are safest and easiest to visit are Kazbegi, Svaneti and . The biggest hazard in these regions is altitude 1.16.2 Kutaisi sickness. Previous worries of instability in the Georgian northeast, The available evidence indicates that Kutaisi, the second near the border with Chechnya, have subsided, and the largest city in Georgia, suffers from crime rates signifi- Pankisi Gorge is certainly not considered as dangerous a cantly higher than the national average. It is very impor- region to visit as Abkhazia or South Ossetia. tant to exercise caution in Kutaisi after dark. Svaneti is perhaps the most romantic and mysterious of all Georgian regions, but its inhabitants, the Svans, have a reputation for fierce independence and distrust of 1.16.3 Adjara outsiders (as well as legendary hospitality for accepted guests). Travelers should exercise special caution when visiting Svaneti, which is best to see with a local guide. Tusheti is the most secluded part of the Caucasus range in Georgia. Access is possible from June to October only, because of the large quantity of snow. Only a few families live there the whole year.

1.16.5 Separatist Regions

Abkhazia and South Ossetia pose some challenges for travellers, South Ossetia more than Abkhazia. Abkhazia is easy enough to visit provided attention is paid to paper work and border crossings. South Ossetia remains more untamed. city of Batumi 1.17 Stay healthy

The separatist conflict between Adjara and the central Tick-borne encephalitis might happen but very rarely and government has ended with little violence, and it is now only if one spends time in nature (not in towns). A cau- perfectly safe to travel throughout the region. The once tious traveller may want to make some vaccinations for rampant corruption should now be a rarity for travelers. tetanus, polio and diphtheria, but these are not really nec- Passing through customs at the Sarpi-Hopa border cross- essary. Giardia is a common threat to foreign visitors. ing is now routine and uneventful for most tourists, though Contraction is most likely via: at certain times it may take two hours or longer, due to long lines. • tap water 12 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• swallowed water from lakes, rivers, pools, or and north Caucasian hired fighters. Antipathy and bitter- jacuzzis ness against Russia run extremely high in Georgia.

• raw fruits & vegetables

• unpasteurized milk or other dairy products 1.19 Connect

Drinking tap water is generally safe. 1.19.1 Mail Passive smoking could be a big problem since tobacco is Postal services in Georgia have almost ceased to exist. very cheap compared to Western countries and many men There are no letter-boxes or home delivery. Mail does smoke. not arrive to recipients, but they are notified and have to Accidents happen rarely. collect mail at a post office. Postal rates are high (3 GEL In Tbilisi you will be able to find many gyms and fit- to send to another country, while in neighbouring Arme- ness centers with swimming pools and brand new training nia it costs ~1 GEL). Postcards cost 1 GEL throughout equipment, where you will be able to work out. In other the whole country, which is also expensive for a postcard. cities they occur much rarer. The few post offices still maintained by Georgian Post are badly signposted and often in derelict buildings.

1.18 Respect 1.19.2 By phone

Georgians are hospitable to a fault (and beyond). If a Georgia uses GSM (900 MHz and 1800 MHz) for mo- Georgian invites you somewhere, it will be almost im- bile phones and there are three providers, Geocell (pre- possible to pay for anything and even raising the subject paid LaiLai card), Magti (two prepaid brands “Bali” of who will cover the bill can be embarrassing for your and “Mono”). Coverage and BeeLine. Service pro- host. If invited to a private home for dinner, make sure vided by the first two is exceptionally good and you should you arrive amply stocked with wine or sweets. be able to use your phone in most non-mountainous ar- eas provided it supports the aforementioned technologies. If traveling in small towns (and in the quieter parts of Check with your mobile provider to ensure that they have Tbilisi), it is customary to greet almost everyone who roaming agreements with at least one of the Georgian op- passes you with a friendly “Gamarjoba” (Hello). And the erators. Both Geocell and Magti have UMTS/3G service proper response to this is “Gagimarjos”. including video call and high speed data. Roaming is pos- It is a very ingrained and idiosyncratic characteristic of sible if you own a UMTS capable mobile phone. Geocell Georgian hospitality that Georgians wish nothing more has the cheapest mobile internet solution over its network. than to hear that foreigners are enjoying their experience in Georgia. Expect to be asked whether you enjoy Geor- gia and its cuisine. And it is expected that you respectfully 1.19.3 Internet reply in the affirmative. Otherwise, your “hosts” will look terribly dejected as if expressing a feeling of collective DSL and fiber optic lines are available in Georgia. There failure to show visitors enough hospitality. are two provider companies: “Caucasus Online”, and “Silknet”. Dress conservatively when visiting churches. Avoid shorts and sleeveless shirts. For women, head covering There is free Wi-Fi network all over the Tbilisi. Network and dress or skirt are usually required; in some places, name is: “Tbilisi Loves You” these are provided. 1.19.4 By net 1.18.1 Sensitive Issues In major hotels, WLAN service is available. Avoid talking about Russia, and especially about the sep- Internet cafés, locally called “internet clubs”, are com- aratist regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Talking mon and cheap in Tbilisi and Batumi but scarce in Ku- about this subject can lead to hostility, maybe even fierce taisi. Some places offer free WLAN to their customers. debates, and sometimes fights. Tense relations between At least in Tbilisi, all have free fast WLAN. the two countries have led to many conflicts, most notably the 2008 South Ossetia war and the severance of diplo- matic relations. Georgia has lost 17% of its territory, and must support a large amount of refugees displaced by the war, in 1992 there was ethnic cleansing of Georgians in Abkhazia by Russians, Cossacks, Abkhazian separatists Chapter 2

Kakheti

2.2 Other destinations

• Akhtala — historic mud-cure resort, not far from the town of

• David Gareja Monastery Complex — Georgian Or- thodox monastery clinging onto a rocky hillside

• Kindzmarauli Winery — Kindzmarauli is a delicious sweet red wine, which has been made for centuries, but the winery is a stark lesson in underinvestment. Kakheti within Georgia There are no regular tours, but if you just show up, people will be more than happy to show you around. Kakheti is a region in eastern Georgia, famous for great weather, golden hills, and Georgia’s principal wine coun- • National Parks of Lagodekhi and Vashlovani try. • Pankisi Gorge — a bit of an infamous section of Georgia, after Russia claimed Chechen terrorists were using it as a base for attacking Russians in 2.1 Cities Chechnya, but the gorge is now safe and still home to many Chechen refugees—probably the safest place • Gurjaani — one of the centres of Georgia’s wine in- in the world to experience Chechen culture dustry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dor- mition (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museum • Tsinandali Winery — The Tsinandali Winery is of Local Lore and History, and Museum of Nato more than just a winery, it is also a large and at- Vachnadze. Close to the historic mud-cure resort of tractive estate-park, with a large manor owned by Akhtala former President Eduard Sheverdnadze. • — known for its Kindzmarauli wine • Tusheti — a mysterious, remote region high in the and as the birthplace of Georgian author Ilia mountains bordering Chechnya with ancient pagan Chavchavadze, whose fortified house here is pre- and Christian monuments; to go here is to wander served as a local museum back in time hundreds of years • Lagodekhi — a pretty border town on the road to Sheki, Azerbaijan 2.3 Understand • Omalo — a village up in the mountains of Tusheti • Sighnaghi — important center of Georgia’s tourist 2.4 Talk industry with impressive town walls • Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a convenient Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the re- base for exploring the region’s wineries, castles, and gion, but much of the older generation speak Russian monasteries and the younger generation is increasingly speaking En- glish due to hostility towards Russia, and also because • Tsinandali — featuring Tsinandali Palace-museum English is taught in schools since independence and has and historic winery which once belonged to replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation- the 19th-century aristocratic poet Alexander wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, as Chavchavadze they are more likely to know some English.

13 14 CHAPTER 2. KAKHETI

If you happen to speak Chechen, you could have a very 2.10 Drink interesting experience in Georgia’s Pankisi Gorge, where many Chechen refugees have set up shanties. Great drinking opportunities await visitors to Kakheti. Some wineries (especially the Teliani Tsinandali Winery) will give nice, commercial tours to anyone who shows up, 2.5 Get in whenever they show up, which include wine tasting. As a matter of fact, if you go to any of the wineries and ask for a tour, you will get one, although they may not be 2.6 Get around very professional about it (and may not charge you any- thing). Because nearly all of Georgia’s high quality wine is exported, and because there are not many tourists in 2.7 See Kakheti, it can actually be impossible to buy wine directly from smaller wineries (even under the table!). Wineries • Telavi with the palace of King Erekle II, ethno- that are not licensed to sell directly to visitors should have graphic museum and the 1000 year old plane tree an official store nearby, but be sure to call ahead of time to make sure that it is open. • Mnastery complexes Ikalto and Shuamta near Telavi At Tsinandali, they want you to pay (separately) for: (1) looking at the garden (2) viewing at the wine museum (3) • of Alaverdi 20 GEL fixed price and quantity of wine tasting (there is no choice to try fewer/more wines and/or quantity). Tsi- • Fortified church — a fantasy castle upon a nandali estate has no sign! But, just 200 to 300 metres large rock in front of the mountains with a church from Tsinandali is Shumi vineyards who provide compli- on top mentary wine tasting and their wine museum is free to • Archaeological Site and monastery Nekressi view as is their property. But of course the best drinking opportunities are in the • The city of Sighnaghi with Old Town, Pirosmani homes of the ordinary people of Kakheti. Nearly every Museum and fortifications, as well as the monastery household has its own homemade, usually delicious wine. on the outskirts Bodbe If you are the least outgoing and speak either Georgian or Russian, chances are you will get invited into someone’s • Church of All (Kvelazminda) at Gurjaani home for wine and food—do not pass this up! Your host may also offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously • Cave monastery of Dawit Gareja potent vodka distilled from grapes, which you may indeed want to pass up. • Napareuli wine cellar

• Ninotsminda Monastery 2.11 Sleep • Pankisi Gorge • Lopota Lake Resort and Spa (ლოპოტა), Na- • Tusheti with the historic towers pareuli, Lopota Valley, Kvareli, ☎ +995 32 2 400 400, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 12PM, • Natural Parks of Lagodechi and Vashlovani check-out: 12PM. This resort is in the beautiful Lopota Valley, surrounded by ridges of the Cau- • Ruins Udscharma (on the road to Gomboripass) casian mountain range, and it has a recreation area • Twins old cellar stretched over one million square meters. (updated Oct 2015)

2.8 Do 2.12 Go next

2.9 Eat • Head southeast past Lagodekhi to enter the beautiful Sheki Region of Azerbaijan. • Kachreti Champion (კაჭრეთის ჩემპიონი). Restaurant is located right on the Kakheti Highway. It offers local Kakhetian cuisine. It has open-area seats. The food is delicious but buying wine is not worth it. 10 USD per person. (updated Oct 2015) Chapter 3

David Gareja Monastery Complex

David Gareja (Georgian: დავითგარეჯის there, charter a taxi, which may cost around 50-60 სამონასტრო კომპლექსი, Davit'garejis samonastro lari. This option will for sure work during the high komplek’si, sometimes spelled Davit Gareja) is a rock- season, but can be more challenging in winter time. hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex located in the Kakheti region of Georgia, on the half-desert slopes In Tbilisi, Rest and Tours can organize half-day of Mount Gareja, some 60–70 km southeast of Georgia’s trips to David Gareja. capital Tbilisi, and partially located in Azerbaijan. • Rest Hostel and Tours, 68 Dimitri Uz- nadze str., Tbilisi, ☎ +995 598 111469, e- 3.1 Understand mail: [email protected]. The driver will also accompany you for the walk around the Although most of the complex is in Georgia, part of the monastery.+phone=+995 599 164249; 598111469 site is in Azerbaijan, and the exact border is still the sub- Gocha 100 lari for 1-3 persons by 4-wheel drive, ject of a dispute between Georgia and Azerbaijan. 150 lari for up to 1-7 people in a minivan Mitsubishi Delica 4-wheel drive..

3.2 Get in 3.2.3 By travel agency

One can go there by car, by taxi, or using a travel agency, Many travel agencies (e.g., in Tbilisi) can organize a one- e.g., based in Tbilisi. There is also an inexpensive (25 lari day or half-day tour to the monastery. But it may be much tour) shuttle bus Gareji Line going daily from and back more expensive than chartering a taxi yourself. to Tbilisi from 14th of April to 15th of October.

3.2.1 By car 3.3 Get around

There are two options to get there: either via No entrance fees. (with a road in an acceptable state), or via Rustavi, which Be aware that it is often windy; so during winter be sure offers an amazing view on the industrial desert of this for- to wear warm clothes. mer factory city, but at the price of a road in a very bad state (4-wheel drive only). In both cases, make sure you There are no toilets on site; however, some 100 meters have a good GPS software, as the road signs are almost before the entrance (the “church shop”), there are some non-existent (slightly better via Sagarejo). public toilets on the left (small house with a red roof).

3.2.2 By taxi 3.4 See

Two options: The main monastery is right behind the small parking lot. You can visit most of it; the rooms not allowed to tourists • Chartering a taxi from Tbilisi; this may cost at least are clearly marked with “no entrance” signs, in both En- 100 lari, including the 2 or 3-hour waiting time in glish and Georgian. See the tomb of the first monk to the monastery. have lived there (St. David Garejeli). • Going by marshrutka (e.g., the one heading to Then, you can follow the path starting right behind the Sighnaghi) until the crossroad of Sagarejo; from church shop, that goes on the top of the small mountain.

15 16 CHAPTER 3. DAVID GAREJA MONASTERY COMPLEX

• Telavi - Alaverdi Cathedral and Castle, 70 km N

• Sighnaghi - fortress and convent in the country’s smallest town, 50 km NE

David Gareja, a rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery com- plex

There, you have a wonderful view towards both Geor- gia and Azerbaijan. And you will see many troglodyte churches, some of them with paintings from the 11th and 12th centuries. Total time: about 1h30, using a sometime steep path.

3.5 Do

3.6 Buy

The church shop at the entrance of the site sells some religious objects.

3.7 Eat

There are no places to eat nor drink around. Bring your own food!

3.8 Drink

3.9 Sleep

No accommodation here.

3.10 Connect

No Internet. However, there is some phone network… partially coming from Azerbaijan.

3.11 Go next

• Rustavi - a post-Soviet upcoming city, 30 km W • Tbilisi - the capital, 70 km NW Chapter 4

Sighnaghi

Telavi via Gurjaani visiting wineries on the way, escape for a day to Kvareli lake resort or Lagodekhi National park, go visit David Gareja monasteries on Azerbaijan border. Do not expect wild night life here. Sighnaghi is the place to drink local wine and enjoy delicious Kakhetian food in one of the many restaurants.

4.2 Get in Old town • Marshrutkha station (behind the police building and the Populi). Public toilets right on the square.

• From Tbilisi marshrutkas run daily every odd hour 7 am - 5 pm, the last one leaving at 6 pm, from Sam- gori station. Travel duration is 1h45, cost 6 laris (as of 2014). To Tbilisi they leave at 7am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, 4pm, and 6pm every day. It is highly advised to book tickets back from Sighnaghi in advance (buy your ticket from the small kiosk on the Marshrutkha station’s square), even a few hours before, since all marshrutkha are usually full.

• There are also marshrutkhas every hour to nearby , from where you can get a marshrutkha to many Kakhetian destinations. Town streets • Marshrutkas to Rustavi daily at 07:00 and 09:15. Sighnaghi () (Georgian: სიღნაღი) is a town in Georgia’s easternmost region of Kakheti and the admin- istrative center of the Sighnaghi District. It is one of the country’s smallest towns with a population of about 3000. 4.3 Get around

4.4 See 4.1 Understand • Sighnaghi town wall (Take the cobbled road down Sighnaghi has recently undergone a fundamental recon- to Tsnori, enter through the tower at the arch.). Sigh- struction program and has become an important center of naghi’s fortifying wall (XVIII century) is one of the Georgia’s tourist industry. Although for Sighnaghi itself biggest in Georgia, its area occupies 40 hectares. half day of sightseeing will be more than enough, but this Town wall has 23 towers, each one named for a town is probably the best base for exploring the region on nearby town, and 6 gates, its width is 1.5 m, height daily trips. You can follow the road from Sighnaghi to 4.5 m and total length is 4.5 km. A small section of

17 18 CHAPTER 4. SIGHNAGHI

from visitors, but there is no price for admission to the church or the tower. −.

• Pirosmani museum (Neighboring the square at the summit of Sighnaghi, can be reached by taking the stairs to the left of the large building with a clock- tower.). 11:30-18:30. The ground floor holds an im- pressive exhibit of archeological artifacts, many of which were discovered locally. The upper floor fea- tures 16 original paintings by the famous Georgian folk artist Nikolos Pirosmani, as well as a gallery for special exhibitions. 3 GEL, 1 GEL for students.

Facing the Greater Caucasus • (2 km outside of Sighnaghi, 25 mins of walking). It is one of the most important places of pilgrimages. St.Nino (IV century apostle of Georgia) is buried here. Monastery itself was constructed in the end of V century by Vakhtang Gorgasali. And then reconstructed in XIX century.

• St.Nino spring (If you go down the hill from Bodbe Convent you'll find St.Nino spring.). You can wash your self in holy and allegedly healing water here.

4.4.1 Further afield

• Sunday market in Bodbiskhevi, village of Bod- biskhevi, adjoining Tsnori (Marshrutkhas to Tsnori currently are not running from Sighnaghi on the weekends. You can hire a taxi to take you to the market and bring you back for 15 gel or less if not shared with other passengers.). morning. The largest market in the region, Bodbiskhevi offers the tra- ditional Soviet Sunday market day experience. At Bodbiskhevi market the prices and variety of goods are unmatched, selling such things as fresh produce, meats, , crafts, clothes, livestock, and house and farm goods.

• Khornabuji fortress (SE 40km, near Dedoplit- skaro village). This is an ancient fortification on the The Monastery of St. George at Bodbe rocks, first mentioned in V century. It was invaded by Mongols in XIII century.

the wall has been restored for tourism. You can en- ter this portion through the tower at the gate on the road to Sakobo/Tsnori where there is also a restau- 4.5 Do rant. This “tourist track” as the signs call it, will spit you out on the same road, above where you entered. • Pheasant’s Tears Restaurant, Wine Bar, and • St. Giorgi church. XVII century Fine Art (close to Populi, on the road to Tbil- isi). Pheasant’s Tears wine bar offers wine tastings • St.Stephen church (take the road to the left of Hotel and interesting takes on traditional Georgian cui- Sighnaghi at the highest square. The church is up sine with an eye towards wine and food pairings. A the road on the right.). The church tower commands must-see for wine tourists, as the winery produces an excellent view of Sighnaghi’s surrounding areas organic wine made in the traditional qvevri method and tourists can climb over the fortifications. There and focuses exclusively on Georgian varietals. Their is often an old man here who tries to extract a fee restaurant and wine is considerably more expensive 4.9. SLEEP 19

than other restaurants. Pheasant’s Tears can also or- • Hotel Maia, st gieorgy street 7, ☎ +995 99554371, ganize wine tours throughout the region or even ar- e-mail: [email protected]. a really nice range an acclaimed folk ensemble to provide Geor- place with hospital hosts. 15 $ per person (incl gian polyphonic song during your feast. Pheasant’s breakfast. Tears also sells traditional and antique Georgian car- • pets, as well as fine art painted by the primary part- Hostel Tura (Hostel is located 3 km outside Sigh- ner in the winery, a graduate of the Surikov Institute naghi in Qedeli neighborhood. Follow the main road in Moscow. English and Russian friendly. to/from Tbilisi then turn to unpaved road when you see a sign Hostel Tura. Follow that road for about 500 meters and you'll find it), ☎ +995 555 61 66 11, +995 599 479470, e-mail: [email protected]. 4.6 Buy Check-in: 24/7, check-out: 24/7. 20 gel/ person, breakfast included. • The Knitting Ladies (On the cobblestone road to- • Hotel Mate (Manana’s Guesthouse), Gorgasali Str, ward Tsnori). In a small section of Sighnaghi, sev- 20 (From the main square go towards St George eral ladies offer a picturesque array of knitted goods Church, at the fork turn left to pass through the gate for sale for astoundingly cheap prices. Here you cay in the old city wall. Right after that turn right and buy Georgian socks with traditional patterns and lo- follow the road untiil you reach the last house on cal wool, hats, scarves, slippers, and baby booties. the left - that’s the hotel.), ☎ +995 57 40 20 80, 1-20 gel. e-mail: [email protected]. This is a great guesthouse with a homey atmosphere. The rooms are clean and comfortable, some of them with 4.7 Eat a great view of the valley and the mountains. There is a large dining room downstairs, where the guests can hang out and have some wine. For additional • Host of Sighnaghi, Baratashvili str., first restau- price Manana, the hostess, can cook a hearty break- rant you see entering Sighnaghi coming from Tbilisi. fast or a traditional Georgian dinner. There is also Delicious khinkali, mtsvadi and other Georgian spe- a garden in the back where one can enjoy fresh air cialties.. For full meal plus wine you shouldn't pay or try home-grown grapes. The guesthouse is close more than 15-20 gel per person. to St George Church and other touristic attractions. It’s suitable for young travellers, as well as families • Nikala (Across from the clocktower building). with children. 25-30GEL per person. Nikala boasts excellent Kakhetian food and some of the best khinkali and mtsvade in town. Their menu • Nato & Lado Guesthouse, Pirosmani Str. 5 (City includes several more rare Kakhetian delicacies than Center, a bit uphill), ☎ 599 212 988. Get your wel- most restaurants in the area. English friendly. come drinks, some home made wine, chacha and a coffee, in this nice Guesthouse. Traditional Kakheti • Pancho Villa (From the highest town square, take food is available on request, 5GEL for breakfast and the lower road to the right of Hotel Sighnaghi, to- 10GEL for dinner. It is a nice, clean and comfort- wards Tsnori). Pancho Villa may be one of the few, able place, with Wifi, a computer on request and hot if not the only, Mexican restaurant in Georgia. The shower, run by the English speaking Nato. Nato or restaurant does an excellent at recreating Mexi- her father Lado can take you in her car to her own can flavors and dishes with Georgian ingredients and vineyard and around local sights in Kakheti. Be- mentality. They also offer the most exotic liquors in ware, there are two hotels at the same address... take Sighnaghi, and the only margarita for miles. The the left one with the green entrance! 10GEL for food here is more expensive than other restaurants, dorm - 15GEL per person for private room. but the gastronomical variety they offer is invalu- able. Make sure you at least stop by for their incred- • Dodo Guesthouse, Baratasvilli Str. 16 (City Cen- ible desserts and a Mexican hot chocolate! ter, on the main street from Tbilisi), ☎ 551 22 16 17. The old woman is friendly but does not speak English. Coffee and tea is for free and Wifi is avail- able. 10GEL for dorm or on the terras - 15GEL per 4.8 Drink person for the nicer rooms with balcony.

• David Zandarashvili’s (Hotel Family), 11 Gior- 4.9 Sleep gisminda St (the right track down from the main square; turn left under the archway). A charm- There are plenty of home-stays in Sighnaghi as well as ing homestay run by a very kind and welcom- high class hotels. ing English-speaking family. Terrace overlooking 20 CHAPTER 4. SIGHNAGHI

Kakheti. Lovely rooms. Dinners (optional, extra) are a communal affair and a great way to meet other travelers. 15-20 GEL without meals, 35 with break- fast/dinner.

4.10 Connect

4.11 Go next

• David Gareja Monastery Complex (50km) - a rock- hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex. Can be reached by taxis or organized tours, no public available. • Dedoplistskaro - nearby village with nice church, in a close proximity to Khornabuji fortress • Gurjaani — one of the centres of Georgia’s wine in- dustry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dor- mition (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museum of Local Lore and History, and Museum of Nato Vachnadze. Close to the historic mud-cure resort of Akhtala • National Parks of Lagodekhi and Vashlovani

• Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a convenient base for exploring the region’s wineries, castles, and monasteries • Tsnori - small nearby town with transportation to all Kakhetian destinations Chapter 5

Telavi

Although Sighnaghi and Telavi are close to each other, there are only 1-2 marshrutkas a day, so check the sched- ule beforehand.

5.2 Get around

The city is small enough to be walkable. However, vis- iting the neighboring sites requires the use of further marshrutkas and/or taxis. Whereas seeing one or two sites (e.g., castle + Alaverdi cathedral) can be a one-day activity from Tbilisi, it is best to stay several days in Telavi to fully enjoy the surround- Telavi ings.

Telavi is a city in the province of Kakheti in the country of Georgia. 5.3 See

• Telavi castle (city center). 5.1 Get in • Church of St. George There are 3 marshrutka stations. • Plane tree is a huge old tree that supposedly can make wishes come true. • The main marshrutka station (in the Southern part, on the top of Alazari avenue). 5.3.1 Alaverdi • Marshrutkas heading to Alaverdi (from the main marshrutka station cross the road, take a narrow To get there, take marshrutka bound to Alaverdi from the street for 20-30 meters, and there is a small parking small marshrutka station in front of the main marshrutka lots with further marshrutkas). station on Alazari avenue. Price: 1.30 Lari. Dura- tion: about 30 minutes. Departs more or less hourly. • Marshrutkas heading to Tbilisi (walk 200-300 To get back, wait in front of the cathedral for the next meters from the main marshrutka station direction marshrutka. North (i.e., bottom) of Alazari avenue. The station is a bit hidden shortly after the traffic light, on the • Alaverdi Cathedral. Built in the this left). is the second highest cathedral in Georgia. Free en- trance.. From Tbilisi, marshrutkas depart more or less hourly (at least 9am and 10am, but there many more throughout the day) from the Ortachalla station (in front of the station). 5.3.2 Tsinandali village Price: 10 GEL (June 2015) Duration: 2h30 (the high du- ration compared to the small distance explained by the It’s about 8 km eastward from Telavi. To get there take fact that the marhshrutkas do not use the direct road, but marshrutka from the main marshrutka station (0.5 GEL) go almost until Sighnaghi before heading to Telavi). or take a taxi (5 GEL).

21 22 CHAPTER 5. TELAVI

• Tsinandali Gardens. 10:00 - 19:00 (winter time 5.8 Sleep 10:00 - 17:00). The residential palace of the Chavchavadzes family. It has a charming garden of There are several homestays on Nadakhvari street, and if a medium size. 2 GEL - entrance to the park; 5 GEL they are full they can usually organize for you to stay at - entrance to the park + ticket to the museum (incl. a neighbours’. 25GEL per person without, and 30GEL guide service); 7 GEL - the same as previous one + with breakfast. 1 glass of wine; 20 GEL - the same as previous one + 6 wines for tasting.. 5.9 Connect • Winery “Schumi” (200 m before entrance to Tsi- nandali Gardens). They offer wine tasting which in- cludes tasting of 3 wines, costs 15 GEL. There also a 5.10 Go next shop selling their own wine with prices 10 - 35 GEL per bottle. • Sighnaghi • Tbilisi 5.4 Do

• Hike to Lagodekhi park into the subtropical forests to find one of most beautiful waterfalls in Georgia. there are some hostel available in the park. Can see bears, dears, leopards if you hike in the early morn- ing.

• The wine route.

5.5 Buy

Different sorts of wine in the small wineries as well at manufactures, handmade crafts are very beautiful, take some picture in the local gallery. This said, Sighnaghi is (even) more famous for wine.

5.6 Eat

Several restaurants on the main street, majority of them located on the basement level.

5.7 Drink

Kakheti is Georgia’s most famous wine region, so Telavi is perfect for sampling some. The tourist information (along Erekli 2 street) has an overview of all the wine cellars and companies in and around Telavi, and maps of the region if you have your own car. A good starting point is the shop close to the big Plane tree and the statue in Telavi itself. The staff speaks fluent English, they sell wines from a number of wineries and they have information and prices for different tastings you can do. They can also organize a driver to take you there. Chapter 6

Kartli

• Mtskheta

• Rustavi

6.2 Other destinations

•

• David Gareja — a 6th century cave monastery on a mountain lying just meters away from Azerbaijan, with beautiful frescos

• archaeological site — a bronze age settle- ment and the 1.8 million year-old fossilized remains of the first human in Europe have been discovered here

• Uplistsikhe — a 3,600 year old Silk Road cave city that was a major regional center of Caucasian pagan religion

• Mount Kazbeg — one of the highest mountains in Europe is also home to one of the most spectacularly situated monasteries in the world

• Shida Kartli — is a region () in Georgia.

• Nature Park, Nichbisi-Didgori-Didi Toneti Botisi

Kartli and the surrounding regions 6.3 Understand Kartli is a large region in central Georgia. 6.4 Talk

6.1 Cities Outside of Tbilisi and Mtskheta, you should not expect to encounter many people who speak any Western European • Tbilisi languages. Georgian is the principal language throughout most of Kartli, but there is a significant section of south- • Gori ern Kvemo Kartli (around ), where most resi- dents are Azeri speakers and you may be able to commu- • Gudauri nicate effectively with knowledge of Turkish. Speaking • Kazbegi Russian will help best in areas where ethnic minorities live, where it is the lingua franca. It is spoken to var- • ious degrees by most older people, including by many

23 24 CHAPTER 6. KARTLI taxi drivers, but this is no longer to be completely relied upon. The younger generation is increasingly speaking English due to hostility towards Russia, and also because English is taught in schools since independence and has replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation- wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, as they are more likely to know some English.

6.5 Get in

6.6 Get around

6.7 See

6.7.1 Itineraries

• The Georgian Military Highway — one of the world’s more spectacular roads, the highway cuts through the Greater Caucasus and was built by the in the 19th century to facilitate its conquest of the Caucasus

6.8 Do

• Ski in Gudauri

6.9 Eat

6.10 Drink

6.11 Stay safe

6.12 Go next Chapter 7

Gori

View of Gori from Goris Tsikhe (Gori Fortress)

Gori (Georgian: გორი ) is a city in the Shida Kartli re- Map of Gori gion of Georgia. It is most famous (or infamous) for being the birthplace of Joseph Vissarionovich Jughashvili, bet- ter known as Stalin. Today, surprisingly, it does not look much different from when Stalin ruled the USSR. Gori hind the Stalin Museum (10:00, summer to 20:00, winter is also located a short drive from Uplistsikhe, an ancient 18:00). Silk Road cave city and former regional center of pagan Everything that a tourist would want to see within Gori is worship. easily accessible on foot; the city center is compact. The name Gori may look and sound like the plural form To get to the nearby Uplistsikhe complex, however, it is of the Russian word for mountain (горы, GO-ry), but best to hire a taxi. Taxis are easy to find around the main the name of Gori, incidentally meaning hill (singular) in square and drivers will be willing to wait for you while you Georgian, is much older than the first Russian contact explore the Uplistsikhe complex so that they can drive you with the Georgian kingdoms in 1500s. back to Gori once you have finished. The whole taxi ride, including waiting, should not cost more than 25 lari and drivers will go as low as 15 lari if you are a hard bargainer. 7.1 Understand Public transport to the modern Uplistsikhe village is much cheaper at 1 lari each way. Buses go from Stalin 7.2 Get in Avenue. A train departs to Uplistsikhe village from Gori at around 10AM and returns around 5PM. A bus also makes the trip, departing Gori’s bus station once around Many marshrutkas run daily between Tbilisi’s Didube 9AM and again at noon, returning around 3PM. Once in market and the central square of Gori. A more expen- Uplistsikhe village it is a walk of 700m across the bridge sive, yet still reasonable option, is to hire a taxi. over the river to the Uplistsikhe complex. If you are driving, head south in Gori on Stalin Ave across the Mtkvari River and turn left on the second main cross- 7.3 Get around street (not the one running right along the river). This road will take you through the village of Khidistori, where A tourist information office, which hands out a leaflet you should try to maintain a straight course, bearing to the with all the twelve sights of Gori and a map is located be- left if at a fork, and past the village you should approach

25 26 CHAPTER 7. GORI

Uplistsikhe. If you are feeling lost, ask anyone for direc- tions (try “sahd-ah-rees uu-plis-tsi-khe?") and they will point you right.

7.4 See

7.4.1 The Stalin Cult

Famous “Profile” rock that looks like a face at Uplistsikhe

The house where Stalin (supposedly) was born

Church built over ruined pagan temple of the Sun God, Uplist- sikhe

the main square along Stalin Ave. Having visited Geor- gia and not having seen the birthplace of the Great Man is like going to Agra and not visiting the Taj Mahal.

• Stalin Museum, 32 Stalin Ave, ☎ +995 270 27 52 15, e-mail: [email protected]. 10AM– 6PM. The Stalin Museum is the highlight of a visit to the city of Gori. Behind its faux-Venetian fa- cade is an impressive museum filled with parapher- nalia and media documenting the life and career of I.V. Jughashvili. The museum’s portrayal of Stalin is one-sidedly nostalgic, which can be jarring for vis- itors, but the exhibits are actually quite well done and there are ample Georgian babushkas throughout the museum who will be more than happy to elab- orate on the exhibits and answer questions. Unfor- tunately, the exhibits are overwhelmingly in Russian and Georgian, to the disadvantage of most Western visitors. But the main show requires no language— Stalin’s death mask. Stalin’s bronze death mask Giant statue of Stalin in front of Gori’s city hall before removal is not so exciting in and of itself, but the lighting and bizarre, personality cult-chic, red velvet dis- Unlike the majority of Georgia, Gori is full of people who play will surely elicit goose bumps. At the ticket still revere their home-town boy who made such an indeli- office, ask about an English or German-speaking ble mark on human history. The principal attractions (as guide. Guided tours start regularly. They are some- well as the principal revenue earners) within the city are times available and will often show you the inside of monuments to Stalin and they are all located on or nearby Stalin’s home and train car. 10 L. for foreign tourists 7.4. SEE 27

(1 L. children), cottage and railway coach 5 L. extra. converted King Mirian II of Iberia, the pa- gan temples of Uplistsikhe were sacked and the city went Outside the museum taxi drivers hussle for tours to Up- into long-term decline. Its decline was hastened by dev- listsikhe. astation at the hands of the Mongols in the 12th century, although it remained inhabited, serving as a stop along the Silk Road until the 15th century. • Stalin’s Birthplace: Highlights include: a Hellenistic amphitheater overlook- ing the Mtkvari river where residents of Uplistsikhe If we are to believe the plaque, Stalin’s birth house once enjoyed Greek-style performances, a functioning now resides within a cage of neoclassical Doric columns. 9th century church built atop the ruins of an ancient pa- There is not much here for the visitor other than a creepy gan temple to the Caucasian sun god, a once pillared seat photo opportunity and the plaque which reads in both of kings, and a fun cave tunnel leading out of the city Russian and Georgian: to the riverside. Also be sure to note the round storage spaces once used for wheat and the shelf-like spaces for • Stalin Statue medicinal herbs—a veritable Bronze Age pharmacy! Uplistsikhe is of considerable historical interest and is Few of the many statues of Stalin throughout the former properly enjoyed with a guide. Chances are good that USSR have survived to this day and Gori’s is certainly your guide will find you before you ask (there is not much one of the most magnificent and well-kept. This large alternative employment in this area) and there is a good statue long stood in front of Gori’s city hall, located up chance of finding an English-speaking guide on site. Be Stalin Ave. from the end of the main square, opposite the sure to negotiate prices with the guide though, and don't Stalin Museum, until a bush-league surprise removal in accept the first offer. Entry fee to the site is 3 lari (1 lari the middle of the night by the current pro-Western gov- for children), the will try to sell you leaflets ernment (over presumed objections by Gori residents and and books but don't fall for it as she is trying to rip you officials). The statue is being re-erected in the park be- off. The guides sell the same books more cheaply. fore the Stalin museum. There are two other Stalin stat- ues in Gori: a replica of the main statue is in Stalin Park Uplistsikhe suffered long years of neglect and vandal- and the second—of Stalin as a young man—can be found ism and is currently undergoing significant restoration as beside Gori State University. a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Accordingly, certain areas may be closed off from direct contact during your visit, although all sites will still be viewable. 7.4.2 Uplistsikhe It should cost 10 lari to get a taxi one-way from Gori to the Uplistsikhe complex. Buses also go from Gori to Up-

Stairway leading listsikhe village on the other side of the river, 700m from up from the gate Church North-Eastern gate Main road of Prince Main square the Uplistsikhe complex. These run fairly frequently and Three-wall Temple of Grand chapel Grand cellar Long Makvliani Gate cost 1 lari. The bus from Gori leaves from the bus sta- temple Tower-chapel The and built-in fortifications tion. Ask someone which minibus to get it (there was no towers

Square English sign); someone in the ticket office guided me to

Not excavated Stairs it. Getting a bus back to Gori is very simple (just walk section along the main street of the village until you see a group of people waiting by the road, just near the point where it meets another road). Tunnel

Tower at minor Liff-side gate temple Round temple Temple with Minor gate and the 7.4.3 Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle) caissons ritual well The inaccessible cave North-Western gate “Apothecary’s” Altars Grand temple Dwellings “Hall of Tamara” Goris Tsikhe stands at the heart of the city atop a large 10 m (33 ft) Single-column hall The Church Wine presses North “Nice temple” of Three-sided basilica Sacrificial pits hill and is the only structure in town that could dwarf the Stalin statue. According to locals, Goris Tsikhe’s most map of Uplistsikhe notable moment in world history occurred in the first cen- tury BC, when it was conquered by the Roman General Uplistsikhe (უფლისციხე—The Fortress of the Lord) is Pompeii. The current ruins are more recent, however, easily one of the oldest existing cities in Georgia, although having been built after the Mongol invasion. There is it is now uninhabited save for tourists. Founded in the not much to see inside the ruined castle’s walls, but there sixteenth century BC and carved out of rock, this was are nice views of the city and the surrounding dark green a bustling city over 3000 years ago and was, before the plains of Shida Kartli. The approach to the ruins was re- introduction of Christianity in the fourth century, a ma- cently repaved and the surrounding area cleaned up, but jor regional center of Caucasian pagan worship. After the site remains free and the only price of admission is 28 CHAPTER 7. GORI the short, steep walk up the path. [email protected]. The Ethnographic Museum houses cultural and historical exhibits, in- cluding ancient archaeological artifacts, weapons, 7.4.4 Gori Jvari (Gori Cross) national costumes and textiles, traditional jewelry, and furniture. A good place to get a feel for the Georgian way of life in past eras. Guided comments available in Russian and in English. 3 lari (May 2013).

• The Great Patriotic War Museum, 19 Stalin Ave, ☎ +995 270 27-27-12. 10:00 to 18:00 except Mon- day, summer season only.. The Museum has a unique mural outside. Inside is a collection of - tographs and memorabilia, such as medals, some equipment, personal effects, and an interesting ex- hibit showing Gori and the region’s participants. A section on the 2008 invasion has been added. Free.

• Gori Academic Theater, Chavchavadze St, ☎ +995 270 273740. Offers plays in Georgian and Russian,

• Gori Stadium, at the edge of Stalin Park on Chavchavadze St. Offers occasional soccer games. A view of Gori Jvari from nearby mountain ridge 1 lari.

The church at Gori Jvari stands on an outcropping of • Stalin Park, along the river south of Chavchavadze rocks and can be seen from practically anywhere in Gori. St. The park has a statue of the great man, avary, Originally built in the 12th century, it was burned down cages with brown bears, a few aging rides, a Ferris by the Turks, rebuilt, and destroyed again by an earth- wheel, and a paint ball range. On summer evenings, quake in 1920. The current church was built in the 1980s. it is often crowded with people and a good place for On days commemorating St. George (November 23 and people watching. April 23), Gori residents flock to the church with sac- rificial sheep. The sheep are walked around the church three times, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition, 7.6 Buy are taken just off the church grounds for slaughter. On a clear day, the view of the Caucasus from the church is spectacular. There are a growing number of shops in Gori where tourists can find Georgian crafts and gifts more cheaply The moderate hike is approximately three hours round than in Tbilisi. The Stalin Museum offers a limited num- trip. To reach the trail head, walk south along Stalin Av- ber of kitschy in their main lobby. Small shops enue until you cross the river. The road will cut to the are also popping up in the city center. One good bet is right and then cross the railroad tracks. On the other side the underground pedestrian tunnel below Stalin Square. of the tracks, turn right then take the first left and then the Shop No. 14 in the underground offers a variety of hand- windy path up the hill that is immediately on your right. made Georgian crafts made by local street children at a This twists up the hill. If you find a graveyard on your Gori-based NGO. left, you are going in the right direction. There are more hiking options along the mountain ridge above Gori Jvari and other religious paraphernalia can be purchased and there a number of ruined churches scattered through at the shop beside the Cathedral of the Nativity of the the area. Virgin. These can make for interesting gifts. Shops along Chavchavadze Street (running perpendicular to Stalin Av- enue) sell Georgian jewelry and icons as well. 7.5 Do Along Stalin Ave. several late night stores sell essentials and foodstuffs. • Historical Ethnographic Museum, 12 Kirion II St (Located on a side street a two-minute walk directly • Central Bazaar, Chavchavadze St. The place to east of the Stalin Museum. There is a sign in En- go to buy goods, albeit with a lot of local fla- glish pointing you towards it, and take the first al- vor. Food, fresh produce, stationary, electron- ley to the right.), ☎ +995 8 370 27 28 67, e-mail: ics/adaptors, clothes, shoes, etc. 7.8. DRINK 29

• Grocery Store Evropa, 26 Chavchavadze St, ☎ • The Pub, 3 Chitadze st (In the Old Gori district +995 270 27 56 65, e-mail: [email protected]. near the medieval castle), ☎ +995 (0) 370 27 34 9AM–10PM. One of the best-stocked grocery stores 05. 9.00 am - 2.00 am. Has an interesting interior, in the city center, currently undergoing an expan- very friendly environment, excellent service, and de- sion. It has phone cards, water, soda, sweets, toi- licious food and drinks, including interesting cock- letries, cleaning supplies, pre-made meals for lunch tails. 5-15 GEL. on-the-go. • Grocery Store Sameba. A recently renovated 7.8 Drink grocery store, good for water, soda, , and khachapuri There is not much nightlife in Gori and the bars and restaurants are basically one and the same. Almost all the restaurants listed above offer Russian and Georgian beers 7.7 Eat as well as Georgian wines of varying quality. One stand- out is Orbi’s Restaurant, which offers a local brew for 70 • Atrium, 6 Stalin St (Walk south on Stalin St., about tetri (about 30 Euro Cent) a pint. In the summer, beer 5 mins from Stalin Square, on the left.). Quickly be- tents pop up around town and offer the usual selection. coming a local favorite, the Atrium offers traditional But to really enjoy a summer evening in Gori, it’s best Georgian food and a pleasant atmosphere. The ser- buy a bottle of beer or wine at a store and join the crowds vice is amongst the best in town. 10-15 lari. of young people at the birzhas by the Stalin Museum and Stalin Park. Some of the nicer stores in town are begin- • Restaurant Dzmobis Dukani, Queen Tamar St. ning to offer imported beers, but be sure to check the Typical Georgian cuisine with large private dining expiration date on the bottle. rooms. The restaurant is locally known for its beef stroganoff. 5-10 lari. 7.9 Sleep • Orbi’s Restaurant, 78 Queen Tamara St. A local favorite, offers a wide selection of Georgian food and inexpensive locally-brewed beer. There is a Gori is conveniently only about an hour away from Tbil- large outdoor patio; inside, it’s best to ask for a pri- isi by marshrutka, so it is possible to visit Gori and Up- vate dining room-the music can be unbearably loud. listsikhe as a day trip. There are not many commercial 10–15 lari. opportunities for overnight stays, though the options are improving. Staying in Gori does present a cheaper alter- • Restaurant (Located next to the theater.). native to Tbilisi, and can be a pleasant change of pace from the capital. • Intourist Cafe, 26 Stalin Ave. The main dining room is located inside the Intourist Hotel but may • Hotel Intourist, 26-32 Stalin Ave. A typical So- be unavailable because of private parties. A second viet hotel with typical dour Soviet service and rooms entrance is located beside the hotel (walking toward that look unrenovated since the Khruschev era. Wa- the Stalin Museum) with a secluded outdoor patio. ter and electricity are not always available. On the The selection is not as wide as Orbi’s, but the quality second floor, Rooms No. 1 & No. 2 have been ren- is comparable. 10–15 lari. ovated (50 lari - more if you are non-local/Russian); the rooms on the third floor, while cheaper, are less • Cake House, 22 Stalin Ave. Aside from a large se- than desirable. Hotel Georgia in north wing of the lection of delicious cakes, the cafe offers khacha- same block. 50 lari and below. puri, , and . 5 lari. • Hotel Victoria, 76 Queen Tamara St, ☎ +995 (32) • Coffee House, Stalin Ave. Despite the name, the 95-12-72. The best hotel in Gori. Built in 2000, cafe only offers two types of coffee. There is a it has modern rooms with air conditioning and tele- decent selection of other foods, however, including vision. Conference facilities are available. Orbi’s bliny, salads, and pizza. 5–10 lari. Restaurant is next door. Accepts major credit cards. 60 lari and above. • Read Cafe, 10 Stalin Street, ☎ +995 555 53 65 33, e-mail: [email protected]. 10AM- • Guesthouse Luka, 19 Aghmashenebeli St, Tsmin- 12Midnight. Non-smoking restaurant and café on datskali, ☎ +995 370 27 87 58, +995 598 55 20 53. the main avenue of Gori. Salads, pizzas, some Geor- A 2nd floor apartment with clean rooms, hot water gian dishes, desserts. Drinks include a selection and internet access. Toilet flush by water bucket. of Althaus teas, coffee, alcoholic and non-alcoholic Hosts speak Russian and sufficient English. Make beverages. 5-15 lari. sure to ask for a receipt if paying for more than 30 CHAPTER 7. GORI

one night, otherwise you may be asked to pay again. (Tsabadze st.) or near VTB bank. Expect to wait for 3-5 No doorsign, entry is the door under the balcony. passengers to fill van, price - 5 Lari (1 hr drive). To reach 25GEL/person. highway you have to use taxi. Taxi rides from the center to the highway generally cost 2 lari; alternately, you can • Guesthouse Tamazi, Rustavi St. 11. 10 min stop city marshrutkas Nos. 6 or 24 along Chavchavadze walk from the Stalin museum. The rooms are Street and ride to the highway for 40 tetri. very tidy and comfortable for 25 Lari per person If you're traveling west, there are daily direct buses and including breakfast. The family is very friendly marshrutkas to Kutaisi, Borjomi, and Batumi. Timeta- and hospitable, they speak Georgian and Rus- bles are posted in the bus station. All westbound vehicles sian and can host up to 3 people. Contact: pass through the transport hub in Khashuri, so you can Tamazi Kharibegashvili, +995 598307326 +995 take a marshrutka to Khashuri departing every half hour 370275707 25 GEL/person. (2 lari, 1 hour) and transfer to another one from there. The Tbilisi-Batumi night train (15-25 lari to Batumi, 7 hours) passes through Gori at 11:30PM. Tickets can be 7.10 Connect purchased only one hour in advance, so be sure to show up to the train station early. • Internet Cafe @ ENTER, Chavchavadze St. 9AM– There are also hourly north-bound buses during the day 9PM. The best of the two internet cafes in Gori, but from the main bus station to the villages north of Gori on expect to be surrounded by adolescent boys playing the road to , the capital of South Ossetia. How- Counter Strike. The connection is reasonably fast and ever, since the South Ossetian conflict in August 2008, the staff are helpful. 1 lari/40 minutes. crossing the border is very difficult, and there are secu- • Internet Cafe/Computer Store, Stalin Ave. rity concerns in the area around the border. 10AM–7PM. Smoky, dark and generally unpleas- ant. Only go here if you're in a bind. The computer store in front offers a limited selection of computer supplies.

7.11 Respect

This is an odd point, but one that deserves attention: rel- atively few people in the world “cherish” the memory of one of the 20th century’s greatest mass murderers, , but most that do live in Gori. Try to avoid deni- grating their hometown hero. Gori is a small, poor city and its residents really do not want to listen to foreigners “attacking” their “heritage.” Visitors to local churches should respect Orthodox cus- toms. Women should wear longer skirts and cover their head (either with a hat or with a head scarf). Some churches will provide this for you. Foreigners are gen- erally welcomed, but be mindful of those worshiping.

7.12 Go next

Taxis are most easily requested by phone (# is written on taxis, 1km - 0,6Lari). They're also hailed by approach- ing bored looking men sitting in cars around the city; if you have any trouble, just ask anyone, “Sahd ah-rees tahk-see?" and they will get you a ride (picking taxi on a street costs extra 1 Lari). Marshrutkas back to Tbilisi take off approximately every half-hour from Gori’s bus station located beside the central bazaar (3.50 lari for bus, 4 lari for marshrutka; 1.5 hours). If you've missed the Tbilisi-bound marshrutkas ask for taxi vans near theatre Chapter 8

Gudauri

Do: Ski

8.8 Drink

8.9 Sleep Gudauri (Georgian: გუდაური) is a ski resort in the • Kartli region of Georgia. Sports Hotel Gudauri (Gudauri 4702 Kazbegi Re- gion, Georgia), ☎ +995-32-202900, fax: 955-32- 20-2901, e-mail: [email protected]. This is a ski lodge with amenities like a swimming pool, sauna, 8.1 Understand indoor tennis courts, and a bowling alley. The rate per night with all meals included ranges from 102- 546 Lari. 8.2 Get in

The Georgian Military Highway links the town to Tbilisi 8.10 Connect (120 km, ~2 h) in the south. Heading north the road runs to Kazbegi, the Russian border and then Vladikavkaz in Russia’s North Ossetia. 8.11 Go next

8.3 Get around

8.4 See

8.5 Do

8.6 Buy

8.7 Eat

31 Chapter 9

Mtskheta

Mtskheta (მცხეთა), 15 km north of Tbilisi, was the cap- ital of the ancient eastern Georgian from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD. It is of extraordinary importance to the Georgian people and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was here that Georgia adopted Christianity in AD 334 and it remains the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church. Mt- skheta is of primary interest to anyone interested in Geor- gian history or Orthodox Christianity.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral interiors

View of Mtskheta with the

Jvari Monastery

Tbilisi.

9.1.1 By train

Gamsakhurdia street • Train station (W 1.5km of city center. It’s possible to walk there or get on a public marshrutka waiting near the station). 9.1 Get in

Mtskheta lies at the junction of the Georgian Military Mtskheta lies on the Tbilisi-Kutaisi railway and thus any Highway and the main road that connects Gori with trains connecting these cities will pass Mtskheta.

32 9.4. DO 33

9.1.2 By taxi • Samtavro (Place of the Ruler)(to the north up the main road, within easy walking distance from the You can take a taxi from Tbilisi or book a guided tour. To Svetitskhoveli complex). According to legend, St. make sure you can get back to Tbilisi without problems Nino actually lived on this site and prayed within the get a phone number of a cab company before heading to smaller of its two extant churches. This small church Mtskheta, they will send someone to pick you up for the dates from the 4th century. The larger church on this way back. site was built in the 11th century and contains the graves of Mirian, the Georgian king who adopted Christianity, and his wife. 9.1.3 By minibus • Marshrutkas run regularly every day of the week between Bebris Tsikhe (The Elder’s Fortress)(further up Tbilisi’s Didube market and the main street in Mtskheta. the main road from Samtavro). The ruins of Bebris From the Didube , you walk out and around Tsikhe are fun, if a bit dangerous, to climb on for the one-story shops that are ahead and to the right. In that views overlooking Mtskheta and the valley formed lot, there is a 'cash desk' where you can buy a ticket for around the Mtkvari and rivers. free. the marshrutka. The cost to Mtskheta is 1 GEL per per- son. You will need to pay attention for when you're near 9.3.1 Around town the historic center of Mtskheta because the marshrutkas continue to the Mtskheta bus station which is a few kilo- • Shio Mgvime Monastery (Shio Cave Monastery) meters north of Mtskheta’s cathedral. Note that there are (NW 12 km). Spectacular 6th century monastery. fewer marshrutka drivers operating on Sundays and that Its main church is of 11th century. Fantastic views this mode of transportation therefore becomes less de- over the city. pendable and more crowded.

• Bus stop. It’s possible to catch a marshrutka going • (NE 10 km, on the top of the to Tbilisi here. mountain, closer to Saguramo village). Church built in 8th century. Views over Tbilisi.

9.2 Get around • Armaztsikhe-Bagineti Archaeological Site (on the right bank of the Mtkvari. Access to the exca- Mtskheta is small enough that it is possible to see the en- vation site is signposted on the regional road south of tire town on foot. The one exception to this rule is Jvari Mtskheta.). The main fortress of the ancient town monastery, which is far from the town center and located of Mtskheta was located at the high point above the on top of a mountain. As there is no public transport to river in strategically good position. The excavations Jvari, it may be best to hire a cab in town. of Armaztsikhe-Bagineti were prepared recently for visitors and posses explanations in English. Archae- ological investigations began in 1943 and three main cultures were identified: the oldest finds were dated 9.3 See to the 1st century BC to 2nd century AD, the cen- tral findings on the 3rd-5th centuries, and the latest • Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (The Life Giving Pillar to the 6th century. Consequently Armaztsikhe was Cathedral). Svetitskhoveli is one of the most sacred destroyed by the in the 8th century. There places in Georgia and, along with , are a royal sarcophagus, vestiges of the ramparts, the clear highlight of a trip to Mtskheta. It was a fortified tower and supporting pillars, foundation founded in 1010, built on the site of Georgia’s first walls of the palace, a bath house, a wine cellar, a church, and contains the graves of the ancient Geor- pre-Christian temple and a canal system. Free en- gian kings, including Sidonia, who was said to have trance.. been buried holding Christ’s robe. There are many (unaggressive) beggars at the entrance gate. free.

• Jvari Monastery (on a cliff above Mtskheta). The 9.4 Do 6th century monastery. It is the culmination of a number of artistic and architectural aspiration in 9.4.1 Events early Christian Georgian architecture. The view from above is great. Be sure you travel there when • If you happen to be in Mtzkheta in October, do not there’s clear weather and before dusk. It’s a fairly far miss the Georgian Air Balloon Open Competi- to walk, so a taxi for ~20GEL including wait time is tion. For more information check out the Aeronau- probably the best option tics Club page. 34 CHAPTER 9. MTSKHETA

• Mtskheta City Festival is held annually on 14 Oc- Good food, and within easy walking distance of all tober around the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Folk sights in Mtskheta. Very pleasant and quiet place to dances, music, crafts and religious events all happen stay. 30 min. by bus to Tbilisi Didube metro station. there. 30 Lari per person including breakfast and dinner. • Mtskheta Sanapiro , Sanapiro Street 6, 3300 Mtskheta, ☎ +995 597182244. Owner 9.5 Buy is extremely charming and very kind. Spacious rooms with magnificent view from the balconies to There are some traders and a small shop in front of the Jvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, moun- Svetitskhoveli Cathedral where you can buy souvenirs and tains and rivers. Delicious breakfast. Guest House drinks. has fantastic location, peaceful and quiet.

• There is also a relatively large grocery store ("უნივერმაგ" or "Универмаг") (located north of 9.9 Go next Samtavro on the main road (between Samtavro and Bebris Tsikhe)). where you can buy cheap basic • The Georgian Military Highway runs north through foods and drinks. the mountains to the Russian border. The next size- able town north from Mtskheta is Dusheti 9.6 Eat • Gori, to the west, is easy to reach • Tbilisi There are several cafes in Mtskheta, but one deserves spe- cial recognition: Cafe Guga. It has indoor and outdoor seating—the outdoor seating is especially nice in warm weather as each party will have their own private dining “hut.” The Georgian cuisine available is outstanding and costs far less than a comparable meal in Tbilisi. It’s al- most worth it to come from Tbilisi to Mtskheta just for dinner here!

• Another extremely popular place is “Salobie” (on the way to Mtzkheta to Tbilisi). It’s a large restaurant with both outdoor and indoor seating areas and the food is exceptionally good.

• Restaurant. Rather big restaurant with mediocre food. 8-13 GEL.

9.7 Drink

Those who want to visit discos and nightclubs must drive to Tbilisi.

9.8 Sleep

Mtskheta is an easy and exceptionally rewarding place to visit. The accommodation here is cheaper and generally better than the budget accommodation on offer in Tbilisi, and the easy mini bus connection to Didube metro station, makes it a good alternative place to stay.

• Guesthouse Lizi, Agmashenebliz 52. Clean, com- fortable rooms in a family-run B&B. Free internet. Chapter 10

Rustavi

Rustavi is a city in the Kartli region of Georgia. the Politeknikuri and Station Square sites).

10.1 Understand 10.3 Get around

Rustavi (რუსთავი) is a post-Soviet upcoming city of Rustavi is easily done by foot. In addition, Rustavi has 100,000 people. With a new town square, a theatre in the many marshrutka routes covering the length and breadth process of being renovated, things are happening in this of the city. A marshrutka ride has the flat rate of 50 tetri. former industrial town. Only 25 minutes from Tbilisi, The #1 and #14 marshrutkas run the main road connect- packed full of Soviet architecture, surrounded by aban- ing Old Rustavi and New Rustavi. Make sure there is a doned factories, derelict Soviet-era parks, and dusty hills, sign in the windsheild saying “pirdapir” (პირდაპირ), lest it’s something different. you take the super scenic routes.

10.2 Get in 10.4 See

There are loads of marshutkas going to Rustavi. As of The town square is quite nice, there’s a river, and plenty of 1 February 2012, a marshrutka ride between Tbilisi and crumbling apartment buildings to wander past. They're lit Rustavi costs 1.30-1.50 GEL. From Tbilisi, marshrutkas up at night, which looks quite nice. Nothing like a paint load at the Station Square (Sadguris moedani) metro sta- job. There’s a beautiful theatre as well. tion and also at the Politeknikuri metro station. They will all have a sign reading რუსთავი (Rustavi) in their wind- shield. At Station Square, the Rustavi-bound marshrutkas can be 10.5 Do found parked behind the cluster of stores directly in front of the metro entrance/exit. For a Western traveler, the most striking thing about Rus- tavi is its purely Soviet aesthetic. That said, many West- From Politeknikuri, the Rustavi-bound marshrutkas will erners find that the best thing to do is to simply walk be loading just outside the northeast exit of the metro. around. Rustavi is largely untouched by tourism, so the They will be waiting in the thin parking lot adjacent to observer can see Georgian city life in a very pure form. the university. Go to the cinema, the theatre, check out a cafe, drink On their way to Rustavi, these marshrutkas will invariably some beer. take the main riverside thoroughfare (President Heydar Aliyev Embankment/Gorgasalis St). If you see one com- ing, just wave at it. It will stop if there’s room. The marshrutkas will run down the main street in Rus- 10.6 Buy tavi (Megobroba Street) upon entering town. You will know when you are in Rustavi when you see hundreds of Rustavi has two bazaars in town. There is the old bazaar, 9-story, Soviet-style apartment buildings absolutely ev- located incidentally in Old Rustavi, and there is the new erywhere. Just yell out “Gaacheret” for the driver to let bazaar, located in New Rustavi. you off. Anywhere is a good place to stop, really. To get to the old bazaar, simply take any #14 marshrutka Marshrutkas from Tbilisi to Rustavi begin their routes heading towards Old Rustavi (southeast/away from Tbil- early in the morning and run until midnight (at least at isi).

35 36 CHAPTER 10. RUSTAVI

The new bazaar is bigger, newer, and cleaner. It can be 10.11 Go next reached on foot or by marshrutka. By foot, start with Hotel Rustavi (Rustavis Sostumro). From the intersec- Getting back to Tbilisi is easy. There are Tbilisi-bound tion with Hotel Rustavi, walk with the hotel to your back, marshrutkas passing down the main street constantly. walking north. You will reach the bazaar in 10 minutes. To catch one of these marshrutkas, simply stand any- You can also take a marshrutka to the new bazaar. If where along Megobroba Street (Rustavi’s main road) and you are starting east of Hotel Rustavi, flag down the #1 flag one down. Any marshrutka going to Tbilisi will say marshrutka that does NOT have the პირდაპირ (pirdapir) თბილისი (Tbilisi) on the top on its windshield sign. The sign in its windshield. If you are starting out west of Hotel best places to catch marshrutkas is from a bus stop, be- Rustavi, flag down the #19 marshrutka that does NOT cause the marshrutka will slow down significantly, giving have the პირდაპირ (pirdapir) sign in its windshield. you a chance to read the windshield sign. HOWEVER, all of these constantly-passing Tbilisi- bound marshrutkas are going to different places in Tbil- 10.7 Eat isi. To know where each Tbilisi-bound marshrutka is go- ing specifically, the details will be listed underneath the Rustavi has its fair share of Georgian restaurants tucked word თბილისი (Tbilisi). inconspicuously all over town. The standard fare of The marshrutka going to Politeknikuri (metro) will have khinkali, khachapuri, lobio, is all available. The prices a blue and white windshield sign. Underneath the word are generally the same across the board. თბილისი (Tbilisi), it will say აჭარა (Achara). For American fare, try “Hollywood” at the city plaza The marshrutka going to Station Square (metro) will (meria) in Old Rustavi. have a Tbilisi metro at the bottom with the word სადგურის (Sadguris) next to it. Other marshrutkas going to Tbilisi will are going to ისანი 10.8 Drink (), where there is a metro, and there is the rare marshrutka headed to Liberty Square--it will say ვაკე and Georgian wine and chacha can be found at almost every თავისუპლების on the sign. restaurant and convenience store around town. Marshrutkas running from Rustavi to Tbilisi begin quite გუდა ბუდა (Guda Buda) great place to grab a coffee or early in the morning, and taper off around 10-11pm. beer and wireless internet. It is located in New Rustavi at 2 Megobroba St. A particularly nice establishment to find Georgian spirits is at ღვინოს სახლი (ghvinos saxli or wine house). It is owned by an English-speaking Georgian man whose staff is very helpful in picking out a great bottle of Georgian wine or chacha. And the price is right. It is found in New Rustavi on Megobroba Street (the main road) just west of the ELIT ELECTRONICS store and just east of a yellow and red-painted apartment building. It is housed in a round yellow building on the south side of the street.

10.9 Sleep

The main hotel in town is the auspicious Hotel Rustavi. It is located in New Rustavi about halfway to Old Rus- tavi on Megobroba Street (the main drag). It is easy to spot, as its triangular architecture is the only break in the monotonous apartment blocks all around it. Otherwise, Rustavi is close enough to Tbilisi that you might find more scenic and comfortable digs there.

10.10 Connect Chapter 11

Shida Kartli

Shida Kartli (Georgian: შიდა ქართლი, meaning “Up- 11.5 Get in per Kartli") is the part of Georgia’s Kartli region that lies to the south of South Ossetia. Gori is the principal city • Marshrutka: Marshrutkas run frequently from and administrative center of the region. Tbilisi’s Didube market to Gori. Tskhinvali is also connected to Gori. Less frequent service is available from Kutaisi.

11.1 Cities • Taxi: Taxis to the Gori region can be hired on the cheap from Tbilisi’s Didube market. For a signifi- cantly higher price, taxis will take travelers to other • (კასპი k'ah-sp'ee) destinations within Shida Kartli. • Kareli (ქარელი kah-reh-lee) 11.6 Get around • Khasuri (ხასური khah-soo-ree) • Public transport: It is possible to flag down the local • Gori (გორი goh-ree) — the administrative center of buses and marshrutkas (and cars willing to pick up Shida Kartli and Stalin’s hometown; Shida Kartli’s hitchhikers) run frequently along Shida Kartli’s main most accessible and famous tourist sites (in partic- north-south road. For any destinations off the main ular, Uplistsikhe are all located in and around this road, it is advisable to go to the local bus station early principal city in the morning to inquire about service.

• For higher price (although still cheap), it is possible to hire a taxi from virtually anywhere in the region to 11.2 Other destinations get to the main cities. To get to smaller destinations, it is best to go to the local bus station to see if any taxi • Uplistsikhe — a 3,000 year old cave city on the Silk drivers are interested. If only making a day trip to a Road small destination, it is fairly easy to hire a driver for the full day at reasonable rates (no more than $30).

11.3 Understand 11.7 See

Shida Kartli is predominantly inhabited by ethnic Geor- The most interesting sites in Shida Kartli are unquestion- gians and shares its culture closely with the neighboring ably the amazing, ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe near regions. Its former northern part, South Ossetia, has al- Gori, and the Stalin Museum in the center of Gori—a ways been culturally distinct and is now a de facto sepa- visitor to the region should skip neither. Gori has sev- rate state from Georgia. eral other interesting historical sites, including a Roman Empire-era fortress, Gori Jvari (a small mountain top monastery), and other Stalin-related sites (being, as it is, Stalin’s hometown). 11.4 Talk

Georgian is the main language, but a large minority also 11.8 Do speaks Russian.

37 38 CHAPTER 11. SHIDA KARTLI

11.9 Eat

11.10 Drink

11.11 Stay safe

Southern Shida Kartli is a perfectly safe travel destination, but it is generally inadvisable to travel much farther north than Gori.

11.12 Go next

Gori the main hub for regular connections heading south towards Georgia’s main east-west highway. Going from Shida Kartli to Tbilisi is straightforward. Travelers wish- ing to head west towards Imereti and Kutaisi, however, should plan to go to the bus station early as there is con- siderably less traffic headed in this direction. Chapter 12

Stepantsminda

marshrutkas to Kazbegi are in the second parking lot. Fare: 10 Lari. Duration: 2h45. Holy Trinity Church in the mist If you have a bunch of people in your party, you can al- most always find a driver hanging around the marshrutka Stepantsminda (Georgian: სტეფანწმინდა; formerly who is going there anyway, and hitch a ride for a Kazbegi, Georgian: ყაზბეგი) a town in the north of fare lower than the total your group would pay on the Georgia, popular for the trekking opportunities in the marshrutka. visually spectacular surrounding mountains, its views of the mighty Mount Kazbeg, and for the beautiful view To get to the Sno Valley take a jeep from Kazbegi. It’s a from the town of the Holy Trinity Church outlined against long and pretty scary way but really worth it. Mount Kazbeg itself. 12.3 Get around 12.1 Understand The town is easily covered on foot. The town of Kazbegi—officially named Stepantsminda (სტეფანწმინდა: st'eh-pahn-ts’meen-dah), but better known under the old name of Kazbegi) is a mountain 12.4 See town on the Georgian Military Highway. The town is 10 km south of the border with Russia, which is open • (გერგეტის სამების again for some nationalities. On the western side of the ეკლესია: gehr-geh-t'ees sah-meh-bees ek'leh-see- river, the town is known as Gergeti (გერგეტი: gehr-geh- ah), also known as Tsminda Samebis Church, tow- t'ee), but for all intents and purposes of a visitor, it is es- ering over the city at a height of 2170m. Free sentially one town. entrance. No smoking, no photography inside the monastery. Decent clothes required. 12.2 Get in • Alexander Kazbegi Museum • Sno Valley: Juta town. Mashrutkas leave more or less hourly the Didube bus sta- tion of Tbilisi several times per day. From the Didube metro station, go down, turn right, cross the underway, 12.5 Do cross the first parking lot (full of marshrutkas), and the

39 40 CHAPTER 12. STEPANTSMINDA

12.5.1 Gergeti Trinity Church

Hiking

Hiking is the best option, since you enjoy the view. This can be done throughout the year. It takes between 1 and 2 hours one way, and the difficulty depends on the path. Although the easiest way is very easy, keep in mind that there is more than 400 meters to climb. All three are easy to follow.

• By following the road: after the bridge, turn left, and follow the road until the end, about 6km further. Duration: about 2 hours. Summer flowers nearing the Gergeti Glacier • By the (relatively) easy trail: after the bridge, turn left, and follow the road for about one kilometer, al- most at the end of the small village. You will see 12.6 Buy a sign for cars to turn right; don't turn right, but go until the end of your street, about 100 meters. Then, There is now a new ATM in town at the bank branch turn right, walk 10 meters, turn left, and walk about of 'Liberty Bank'. Its just two hundred meters from the 500 meters. Then you will meet the road again; turn main square, next to the Mini-Markets. The bank also left, follow the road for about 2 kilometers, until the exchanges money and opens around Mo-Fr 10:00 - 17:30 trees suddenly disappear (and you have a wonderful also open Saturdays but a bit shorter. The money changer view on Mount Kazbeg). You will see a path on the right on the main square has horrible rates. left; this is quite steep, though not difficult. In win- ter, avoid this part (keep going on the road). After 5 minutes on this path, you will reach the “summit”, and see the church. Just go to the end. There are 12.7 Eat green/blue signs at each crossroads, so the path is very easy to find. Duration: 1h45. There are few restaurants in the town, it’s easier and cheaper to get the food at your guesthouse. Hotel • By the steep path. After the sign for cars to turn Stepantsminda has a restaurant and the hotel next door right, don't turn right, but go until the end of your as well. street, about 100 meters. Then turn left, and walk up! This path is very steep, and cannot be used in There are some small shops just of the main square, in winter. Duration: 1 hour. the direction of the 'center' (big sign on the side of the square).

By taxi

Many taxis (mostly in the main square) offer a return trip 12.8 Drink to Gergeti Trinity Church from Kazbegi for 40 Lari. This is almost a scam, since this is a mere 6km from the city, The café Shorena’s hotel & bar restaurant (right on and it is much nicer to climb yourself (see above). But the main square) has decent prices for food and drinks, if you are old, or in a hurry, why not. Try to bargain as and provides free Wi-Fi. English-speaking and French- much as possible! speaking staff. Update: The place is rather nice but the prices are unexpectedly high and the portions are very small (but food itself is good as usual). For example - 12.5.2 Other outdoor activities chicken shish costs 9 laris but only contains 4 small pieces of chicken. • Hike further into the mountains via a path starting behind the ridge to the start of the Gergeti Glacier (at 3000m). 12.9 Sleep

• Climb mount Kazbeg (5033m) with a guide. Plenty of homestays, with older lady’s swarming any ar- • Hike in wonderful nearby Juta valley. riving mashrutka. Expect to pay 15 GEL/person/night for a bed, 30 GEL to include dinner and breakfast. Most • Kazbegi Marathon on September 5th, 2015 of the cheaper guesthouses and hostels are on the other 12.11. GO NEXT 41

• Tbilisi: marshrutkas depart from the main square. Several departures in the morning. In the afternoon, departures at 1.30pm, 3.30pm and 5pm (last one). Price: 10 Lari.

View back over Kazbegi side of the river. Walk a few hundred meters north, cross the bridge to the left and then take another left after three hundred meters. Kazbeg looming over the church

• Hotel Stepantsminda on the main square.

• B&B Iago Arabuli in Juta ( nice homestay in remote Juta in Sno Valley, 40 GEL per person with delicious Georgian food, tel 593422951.) Great starting point for hiking tours.

• Anano’s Guesthouse: newly added top floor with several rooms, private and shared bathrooms. Less than 5mins walk from the main square. Family pro- vides breakfast and dinner and they even pack some lunch for your day trips. 40 GEL per person. email: [email protected] phone: +995 593 34 42 74. • Rhezo Guest House, Gergeti, ☎ +995 599404090. The Rhezo guest house - very good location and exceptionally tasty food. Solo Kazbek climbers choice! 35 GEL. • Kazbegi Mountain Hut, Gergeti Village, ☎ +995 99 180806, +995 99 497764. Accommodation for climbers; can arrange guides, horses, porters, etc.

12.10 Connect

12.11 Go next

• Rent a mountain-bike (Mountain Travel Agency - +995 55 64 92 91) and cycle towards the castle by the Russian border, and visit the small valleys south of the town. • Russia (but be sure that your citizenship allows you to cross the border) Chapter 13

Tbilisi

has been destroyed and rebuilt some 29 times, the layout of the Old Town is largely intact with narrow alleys and big crooked houses built around courtyards.

13.1.1 Climate

Tbilisi experiences relatively cold winters and hot sum- mers. Because the city is bounded on most sides by mountain ranges, the close proximity to large bodies of water (Black and Caspian Seas) and the fact that the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range (further to the north) blocks the intrusion of cold air masses from Russia, Tbil- isi has a relatively mild micro-climate compared to other Tbilisi At Night cities that possess a similar continental climate along the same latitudes. - The average annual temperature in Tbil- Tbilisi (Georgian: თბილისი) is the capital city of the isi is 12.7 °C (54.9 °F). January is the coldest month with country of Georgia, lying on the banks of the Mtkvari an average temperature of 0.9 °C (33.6 °F). July is the river. The city covers an area of 726 km² (280.3 square hottest month with an average temperature of 24.4 °C miles) and has a population of approximately 1,345,000. (75.9 °F). The absolute minimum recorded temperature is −24 °C (−11 °F) and the absolute maximum is 40 °C (104 °F). Average annual precipitation is 568 mm (22.4 in). May and June are the wettest months (averaging 84 13.1 Understand mm (3.3 in) of precipitation each) while January is the driest (averaging 20 mm (0.8 in) of precipitation). Snow falls on average 15–25 days per year. The surrounding mountains often trap the clouds within and around the city, mainly during the Spring and Autumn months, re- sulting in prolonged rainy and/or cloudy weather. North- westerly winds dominate in most parts of Tbilisi through- out the year. Southeasterly winds are common as well.

13.2 Get in

Location of Tbilisi within Georgia 13.2.1 By plane

Tbilisi lies in the centre of eastern Georgia, in the foothills • Tbilisi International Airport (IATA: TBS, Geor- of the Trialeti mountain range. According to Geor- gian: თბილისის საერთაშორისო აეროპორტი, gian legends, it was founded in the 5th century by King Tbilisis saertasoriso aeroporti formerly Novo Alex- Vakhtang Gorgasali who, while hunting, shot a pheas- eyevka International Airport), Airport St (17 km ant which fell into a warm spring and was either boiled southeast of the city centre.), ☎ +995 32 310 265, or healed. Either way, the king was inspired to found a fax: +995 32 310 322, e-mail: [email protected]. city on the site, and the name of the city derives from the A new, modern terminal was inaugurated on Febru- Georgian word tbili meaning “warm”. Although the city ary 7, 2007. George W. Bush Avenue leads from

42 13.2. GET IN 43

Lufthansa (Munich), Pegasus Airlines (Istanbul-Sabiha Gokcen), Qatar Airways (Doha,Baku), SCAT (Aktau), (Batumi, Antalya), TAM Air (Donetsk, Kharkiv), Turkish Airlines (Istanbul-Atatürk), and International Airlines (Kiev-Boryspil)

• Flights to Mestia are available on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from Natakhtari airfields in the northern suburb of Tbilisi for only 65 GEL (sub- sidised by Georgean government) and also includes free transfer from Tbilisi. Reservations are available at Vanilla Sky agency, ☎ +995 32 242 7427, Mob. +995 599 65 90 99, e-mail: [email protected]. Its office is moved from old city centre to further in suburb at 5 Vazha-Pshavela Avenue, Tbilisi, close to Metro Medical University station. Be aware that flights may get delayed for a few hours even in good weather. The airline will occasionally accommodate people traveling from Mestia or Tbilisi, leading to delay of the flight. Flights are cancelled at least 50% of the time due to weather in the mountains; as a result, it’s not recommended to fly to Mestia soon before an international departure.

Tbilisi International Airport entrance/exit Bus 37 leaves from the right corner of the arrival area ev- ery 15–30 minutes between 8:00–20:00, then every hour the airport to downtown Tbilisi. until 23:00, to the city center. It via , The first airport terminal building was constructed Freedom Square, Rustaveli, Republic Square and Tamar in 1952. Designed by the architect V. Beridze in the Bridge to the main train station (Vagzal). The trip can style of Stalinist architecture the building featured a take over 50 minutes. The fare is 0.50 GEL. Coins (or a floor plan with symmetric axes and a monumental smartcard) are required to purchase a ticket. risalit in the form of a portico. The two side wings Taxis between the airport and the city cost 20–30 Lari. feature blind arcades in giant order. A new terminal Standard rates are listed on a board by the taxi rank as building was finished in 1990, designed in the Inter- you exit the airport, on the right hand side. national style. The airport has a 3 km concrete run- way and a helipad. The terminal has a contemporary Trains from the airport to the main train station cost 0.50 and functional design. It is designed to provide the GEL and take 35 minutes. You pay the conductor. As of optimum flow of both passengers and luggage from June 2014 there are only two trains daily: at 8:45 and the parking lot to the planes, with a 25,000 m² total 18:05 (vice versa at 8:00 and 17:20). usable area. Services: Seven food and drink outlets, four duty free stalls. There is an ATM and a branch of the 13.2.2 By train Liberty Bank (+995 322 555500). The three main • mobile phone companies sell SIMs in the arrivals Main train station (თბილისი ცენტრალი; Tbil- area. isi Zentrali), Station Square (Sadguris Moedani) (Metro: Station Square). After an extensive re- furbishment, the lower levels are now a shopping The following airlines operate service to/from Tbilisi: mall. Tickets and platforms are on the upper lev- Air Astana (Almaty) airBaltic (Riga), Alitalia (), els. (All Georgia English timetable). Domestic Arkia Israel Airlines (Tel Aviv), Austrian Airlines trains run between Tbilisi and Batumi, Gori, Kutaisi (Vienna), Azerbaijan Airlines (Baku), Belavia (Minsk), I + II, , Poti, and Zugdidi. An interna- bmi (London-Heathrow), Czech Airlines (Prague), Don- tional train (no. 37) runs daily between Tbilisi (dep. bassaero (Donetsk), Dniproavia (Dnipropetrovsk), Esto- 16.30) and Baku. Trains between Yerevan and Tbil- nian Air (Tallinn), Euroline (Almaty, Donetsk, Dubai, isi operate up on odd days of the calender (dep. Kharkiv, Odessa, Vilnius) flyDubai (Dubai), Georgian 20:20). Coming back on even days, fares starting Airways (Amsterdam, Athens, Dubai, Kiev-Boryspil, at 5600AMD ~$15 (Dec 2011). Tickets can be Minsk, Paris-Charles de Gaulle, Tehran-Imam Khome- bought at the Yerevan train station, cash only. In ini, Tel Aviv, Vienna), LOT Polish Airlines (Warsaw), summer (15/06–01/10) the schedules are: Tbilisi 44 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

16:30 – Baku 09:20, 62.63 GEL 2nd class; Baku • bus station (სამგორის), Ketevan 20:30 – Tbilisi 10:45, 29.45 AZN 2nd class, daily Tsamebuli Ave (300 m from Metro: Samgori metro service. Tbilisi 21:40 – Yerevan 07:25, 46.41 GEL station). For minibuses to Eastern Georgia (e.g., 2nd class; Yerevan 15:30 – Tbilisi 00:12, daily ser- Sighnaghi, every odd hour from 7:00. Price: 7 lari. vice (the summer train from Yerevan continues to Duration: 1h30) Batumi). • Ortachala bus station (Central bus station, ორთაჭალის ავტოსადგური), Dimitri Gulia St 13.2.3 By bus 1/Vakhtang Gorgasali St (marshrutka 70, 81, 150 (across Didube bus station). Minibuses from Yerevan Lüks Karadeniz and Metro Turizm operate daily buses (30 GEL, six hours), will also drop you off here. from Turkey, costing 110 Turkish liras. Bus services Metro: Isani metro station go down the street head- from Russia have been suspended. Regular buses or ing to South, you come across the bridge, cross it marshrutkas run between Tbilisi and Batumi or Kazbegi and there is on left side.), ☎ +995 32 753433 ?. as well as Azerbaijan and locations in Armenia. Serves Southern Georgia (e.g., Marneuli) as well as Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey and even Greece. Lines to Vanadzor and Sevan (hourly, 7.00–12.00).- 13.2.4 By minibus It is serviced from the city by ATM inside the sta- tion. Staff speaks very limited English. No En- Minibuses are generally privately owned vans. They op- glish sign, but some Cyrillic signs that might help erate at different frequencies depending on destination. you. Toilets (0,20 Lari, horrible). To Yerevan: They usually have leave on time, but leave earlier if filled marshrutkas (6–7 hours, 30 Lari, at 7AM (?), 8h20 up. From Yerevan minibuses leave the Central/Kilikia (as of 2014) 9:00 (?), and 13:00 (?)), buses (12 bus station from 08:30 and cost 6500 AMD. hours, 15 Lari).

• To Yerevan by minibus (Avlabari Metro station), ☎ • Between Didube and Ortochalla bus stations, catch The seven seats can be reserved by calling +(374- marshrutka 150. 94)320460 (Armenia), +(995-593) 229554 (Geor- gia). Leave at 9:00 and 17:00, duration 5 hours. 35 • Marshrutka to Mestia (daily, 12 hours); otherwise, GEL. the usual option is a night train to Zugdidi and then a marshrutka to Mestia. • To Yerevan by minibus (Main railway station). 10:00 (?), 6–7 hours. depart at 9:00 and 17:00, cost 35 Lari, and take 5 hours. For other options to Yere- van see at 'Bus stations’ or 'train' sections 30 GEL. 13.3 Get around

Bus stations

There are three main stations in Tbilisi.

• Didube bus station (დიდუბე), Akaki Tsereteli Ave (Metro: 'Didube' metro stop. Once at the metro plat- forms, take the train on the right (going forwards). This direction takes you to the main station and cen- ter. There are no signs in English. Alternatively buses 21 and 46 go there from the city center.). North- ern and Western Georgia destinations (including pri- vate taxis to Russia, through Kazbegi) are served. It’s rather disorganised and sprawling, but you'll find minibuses to almost anywhere. 'Neo-Turs’ bus com- pany offers bus transfers Tbilisi – Thessaloniki – Tsereteli metro station Athens and back, starting from here (price: 100 US$). Mashrutkas to Kazbegi Mountain (hourly, The primary transport inside and outside the Tbilisi city Fare: 10 Lari. Duration: 2h45, From the Didube are metro, buses and minibuses — marshrutka. Taxis are metro station, go down, turn right, cross the subway, also cheap, but two wheeled transport is rarely seen and cross the first parking lot (full of marshrutkas), and pedestrians have to contend with significant neglect of the marshrutkas to Kazbegi are in the second park- the pavements. As far as motorists are concerned pedes- ing lot.) trians are allowed to use zebra crossings, but when doing 13.3. GET AROUND 45 so they don't have priority over vehicular traffic. How- buses, allowing for an hour and a half of free transfer. It ever pedestrians do have the advantage of being able to applies across metro-to-metro, and bus-to-bus, as well as cross the pedestrian only peace bridge and travel on the across systems. You can use one card for multiple peo- cable car and funiculars. ple, however, the second person will cost 0.50 GEL each time. 13.3.1 By metro

13.3.2 By bus

City buses are yellow, and come in various sizes. The bus number and a description of the route are usually listed on signs in the bus windows, but only in Georgian. The city recently installed electronic arrival boards, with reason- ably accurate estimated arrival times, at bus stops on ma- jor roads. The signs alternate between English and Geor- gian and display the bus number, minutes to arrival and destination. Board through any door you like, usually the double doors in the middle are easiest. A journey costs 0.50 GEL, and Freedom Square metro station exact change is required if you don't have a touch card (which can be purchased at metro stations). Metromoney cards allow free transfers, and can be topped up at many pay boxes around the city, in addition to metro stations. Hold onto the ticket you receive on the bus; you will need to present it to the yellow-shirted ticket checkers.

13.3.3 By minibus

Tbilisi Metro logo

Tbilisi has a two-line metro system, which operates from 6:00 until 24:00. All signs inside the metro are in Georgian and English, but station name signs are not always visible from the Minibuses in downtown Tbilisi train. Station names are also announced in two languages. There are rarely system maps on the train cars them- Marshrutkas are vans which service the side streets of the selves. You will be lucky to find English speakers rid- city; they are independently owned. Like buses, the route ing the Metro; you will however have better luck with is posted in the front window (often only in Georgian), Russian which is widely spoken. Take a bilingual map but marshrutkas use a different route numbering system, with you if you are not proficient with the local alpha- and the route descriptions may be more general than the bet/pronunciation. buses (e.g. “Vake” rather than a specific street in the Vake A trip with the metro in Tbilisi costs 0.50 GEL. But area). The fare is (on average) 0.80 GEL. If paid with a you will have to buy a Metromoney card (2 GEL) at the touch card, every trip after the first one during the day is counter (more than one person can use the card). You reduced to 0.65 GEL; shout “Stop” or “Gaacheret” when can top up the card with any amount you like, and use it you want to get off, and hand the driver your fare on the for travel both on the metro and on buses. In Fall 2012, way out. In the new yellow Ford Transit vans you can pay Tbilisi introduced free transfer system between metro and also with the electronic card you need for the metro. 46 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

Kura river, Tbilisi Freedom Square

13.3.4 By cab 13.4.1 Museums Taxis in Tbilisi are typically privately owned vehicles, and are not metered. If you're going anywhere other than the There is a common English website for most museums. nearest metro station, major hotels, or tourist destinations, or if you don't speak Georgian or Russian, it’s likely that • G. Chitaia Ethnographical Open-Air Museum your driver will stop multiple times and ask pedestrians (ეროვნული მუზეუმი ღია ცის ქვეშ), Kus Tba 1 for directions. Even then, he may not know how to get to (#1Turtle Lake Road, Tortoise’s pond lane, კუსტბის your destination. If the driver has difficulty finding your გზა #1) (Bus 59 from MetroRustaveli), ☎ +995 32 destination, he will charge you for his trouble. Always 2729045, fax: +995 32 2982133. Tu-Su 10:00- negotiate a price beforehand, unless it is a metered taxi. 17:00; last admittance 16:00. 70 houses and thrift Prices start at 2 GEL for very short trips. A trip in the buildings characteristic for the various parts of all center of town should rarely cost more than 3–5 GEL, Georgia. 8000 household devices and samples of and anywhere in the city should never cost more than 15 craft are shown in the museum. The museum covers GEL, unless you're going to the airport. the area of 50ha and is divided into 11 zones. The area is in a poor state of repair, many houses are de- stroyed and there is almost no explanation without a 13.3.5 By car guide (August 2014). Adults: 3GEL; Students: 1.5 or 0.5 GEL; Guided tour: 10 GEL. End on parking is widespread, but the ubiquitous infor- mal parking attendants will help you reverse out into the • Numismatic Museum (Money Museum, traffic; it’s all part of the service they offer in return for ფულის მუზეუმი), 10 Rustaveli Ave./#10, Kvareli the usual tip. (MetroRustaveli. - Building of the ?), ☎ +995 32 2296604. Th–Mo 09:30–16:30 (excluding a break 13:00–14:00).. 13.4 See Coins dating back to the 4th century BC, Kolkhian Tetries, antique coins, Arabian Dirham, coins of then Georgian kings Lasha-Girgi, Rusudan, Demetre I, Giorgi III, also Turkish coins, Persian Abaz, Austrian and Polish Thalers.[This museum has moved to Kvareli.]

• Museum of Fine Art (საქართველოს ხელოვნების მუზეუმი), L. Gudiashvili street (ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ.), 1 (Metro Liberty Sq.), ☎ +995 32 999909, fax: +995 32 2982133. Tu–Su 10:00–17:00. Photographing the museum building and permanent exhibitions for personal purposes is permitted Adults: 3 GEL; Students: 1.5 GEL; Guided tour: 25 GEL per group of ten.

• Tbilisi History Museum (თბილისის ისტორიის Dolmens in the Ethnographical Open-Air Museum მუზეუმი), #8 Sioni St.(სიონის ქ), ☎ +995 32 2982281, fax: +995 32 2982133, e-mail: 13.4. SEE 47

[email protected]. Tu–Su 10:00–17:00. Adults: • I. Nikoladze House-Museum, Rodin St. #6, 3GEL, School Children: 0.5GEL. (North — Bus to 'Janashia Street', off Petre Melik- ishvili St). • Janashia Museum (საქართველოს ისტორიის ჯანაშიას სახ. მუზეუმი, National Museum • E. Akhvlediani House-Museum, Leo Kiacheli St. of Georgia), avenue (შოთა #12 (M Rustaveli 200m). რუსთაველის გამზ) 3, (Metro Freedom Square 200m), ☎ +995 32 2998022, fax: +995 32 • M. Toidze House-Museum, Revaz Lagidze St. #1, 2982133, e-mail: [email protected]. Tu–Su (Metro Station Freedom Square). 10:00–17:00. This museum houses Georgian and Caucasian artifacts of archeology and ethnography. A permanent exposition chronologically follows the 13.4.2 Religious architecture development of Georgia’s material culture from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century. The most • Mamadaviti (მამადავითის ეკლესია), Mtats- valuable exhibits include Homo ergaster fossils minda Pantheon (on Mtatsminda hill). Constructed discovered at Dmanisi; the hoard of in 1859–1871, domed in 1879. the 5th century BC which contains unique exam- ples of jewelry, blending Achaemenid and local • Sioni Church (სიონის ეკლესია), Sioni street inspirations; a collection of approximately 80,000 (სიონის ქ.) #6 (upper Kala, From Metro Freedom coins, chiefly of Georgian minting; medieval icons Square 0.8 km South-East or from Metro Avlabari and goldsmith pieces brought here from various 0.7 km West). archaeological sites in Georgia; a lapidary which includes one of the world’s richest collection of • Sameba Cathedral (Holy Trinity Cathedral of Urartian inscriptions, etc. Subsection: the Museum Tbilisi, Georgian: თბილისის წმინდა სამების of Soviet Occupation is located on the 4th floor. საკათედრო ტაძარი Thbilisis cminda samebis Adults: 5 GEL; Students: 1.5 GEL; Guided tour: sakathedro tadzari), Samreklo Street (on Elia Hill. 1 10 GEL. km north from Avlabari metro station). Constructed between 1995 and 2004, it is the third-tallest East- • Puppet Museum (Doll Museum), Shavteli N 17a ern Orthodox cathedral in the world. Sameba is a (Ioane Shavteli St,17) (Metro Freedom Square), ☎ synthesis of traditional styles dominating the Geor- +995 32 995337. Tu–Su 11:00–18:00; except Win- gian church architecture at various stages in history ter 11:00–17:00. Adults: 3 GEL; Children: 1 GEL. and has some Byzantine undertones. The Sameba • Galaktion Tabidze Museum, Marjanishvili N 4 Cathedral was erected on the Elia Hill, which rises (Metro Marjanishvili). Tu–Su 11:00–17:00. The above the left bank of the River (Mtkvari) in museum of the eminent Georgian poet, Galaktion the historic neighborhood of Avlabari in Old Tbilisi Tabidze. on the grounds of what was once a park, and before that the largest Armenian cemetery in Tbilisi, a tiny • National Gallery (ეროვნული გალერეა), portion of that cemetery now forms the Armenian Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.) Pantheon. Designed in a traditional Georgian style #11 (Metro Station Freedom Square), ☎ +995 but with an exaggerated vertical emphasis, and re- 32 2157300, fax: +995 32 2982133, e-mail: garded as an eyesore by many and venerated by as [email protected]. Tu–Su 10:00–17:00. 5 GEL, many others, the Sameba Cathedral has a cruciform tours 25GEL up to 10 persons. plan with a over a crossing which rests on eight • Art Academy (სამხატვრო აკადემია), Gudiashvili columns. At the same time, the parameters of the Street.(ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ) #3. dome are independent from the apses, imparting a more monumental look to the dome and the church • The Jewish History Museum (ებრაელთა in general. The dome is surmounted by a 7.5 m tall ისტორიის მუზეუმი), St. Anton Catholicos( ანტონ cross covered with gold. The cathedral consists of კათალიკოსის ქ.) #3. nine chapels (chapels of the Archangels, , Saint Nino, , Saint Nicholas, • Children’s Art Gallery of the Chardin Univer- the Twelve Apostles, and All Saints); five of them sity (ბავშვთა სურათების გალერეა). The mu- are situated in a large, underground compartment. seum houses exhibits about 20 thousand (drawing, The overall area of the cathedral, including its large painting, sculpture, ceramics, woven, embroidered, narthex, is 0.5 ha and the volume it occupies is 137 metal and wood products). m³. The interior of the church measures 56 m × 44 • U. Japaridze House-Museum, Shio Mghvimeli m, with an interior area of 2,380 m². The height St, #2 (North — Bus 6, 9, 14, 21, 31, 34, 37, 42, of the cathedral from the ground to the top of the 46, 51, 59, 61, 66, 78, 87 to 'Janashia Street', off cross is 105.5 m. The underground chapel occupies Iakob Nikoladze St). 35,550 m³. The height is 13 m. Natural materials 48 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

are used for construction. The floor is made of mar- frescoes were painted by the influential Georgian ble tiles and the altar will also be decorated with mo- painter, Lado Gudiashvili, in 1947. The name saic. The painting of the murals is being executed “Kashveti” is derived from Georgian words kva for by a group of artists guided by Amiran Goglidze. a “stone” and shva “to give birth.” Legend has it The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedral the prominent 6th century monk David of Gareja church, a free-standing bell-tower, the residence of of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers was accused by the Patriarch, a monastery, a clerical seminary and a woman of making her a pregnant in Tbilisi. theological academy, several workshops, places for David prophesied his denial would be proved when rest, etc. she gave birth to a stone. She did, and the place received the name of “kashveti.” • Church (“Church of Assumption”) (მეტეხის), Metekhis Rise (მეტეხის აღმართი) • Synagogue (სინაგოგა), K. street, 4? or (Metro Avlabari). Goes back to the reign of St. De- Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) #41 (Metro Free- meritus II. late 13th cent. Rebuilt 17th cent. Un- dom Square). Functioning synagogue constructed in usual in design. 1910. Women and men are seated separately. • Ascension of the Virgin • Jumah Mosque (მეჩეთი), Botanikuri (Aban- Mary? (Tbilisi Virgin Mary Church, მარიამ otubani, ბოტანიკურის ქ.) #32. Turkish Sunni ღვთისმშობლის ამაღლების კათოლიკური mosque, along the road from the Botanical Gardens ეკლესია), Gia Abesadze St (აბესაძის ქ.) #6 to the Sulphur Baths. The usual dress code and entry (Metro Metro Station Freedom Square). The church restrictions for non-Muslims apply. was built, which starts from the XIII century. The church is an example of eclectic architecture and • Holy Trinity Church (Old Trinity Church, has been built with pseudo-gothic and Baroco ძველი სამების ეკლესია), Erosi Manjgaladze elements. The interior is decorated with thematic Turn, Abashidze Street (აბაშიძის ქ.) # 4 (Metro: vitrages. Height: 23 m. Freedom Square). • Anchiskhati (“Basilica of St. Mary”) (Geor- • Alex. Nevskiy Orthodox Church, Marjanishvili gian: ანჩისხატი), Ioane Shavteli St, 18 (Metro Free- Street, ~53. dom Square). Constructed began at the time of king Dachi Ujarmeli in VI cent. This is the old- • Armenian Cathedral of S. Gevorg est church in town. is a three- (სურფგევორქი), 5 Samghebro St. (At Mey- span basilica, divided by two abutments forming dan Square), ☎ +995 322754111, e-mail: horseshoe shaped conches, which indicates the an- [email protected]. Built in 1251 tiquity of its construction. Originally constructed of AD, and seat of the Armenian Archbishop of blocks of yellow tuff stone, the 1958–1964 restora- Georgia. Tomb of the famous Caucasian bard tion made extensive use of brick. The structure has Sayat-Nova is located in front of the church. free. entrances on three sides, but today only the western entrance is in use. Aside from the altarpiece, which • Norashen Armenian Church (ნორაშენის was painted in 1683 by order of Catholicos Nikoloz ეკლესია), Afkhazi Street. Boarded up Armenian , all of the remaining paintings in the Church, used as a library in Soviet times. Origi- church date from the 19th century. nally built in 1487, with a lot of new work in the mid-1600s. • Narikala Church (ნარიყალა), Orbiri St (Narikala Castle). • Church of Fathers’ Cross? (ჯვრის მამის ეკლესია), Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) # 42. • Kashveti Church of St. George (Qashveti, Geor- gian: ქაშვეთის წმინდა გიორგის სახელობის • Upper and Lower churches (ზემო და ტაძარი), Shota (შოთა ქვემო ბეთლემის ეკლესიები კლდისუბანი). რუსთაველის გამზ) #9 (MetroFreedom Square). A copy of 11th century Samtavisi church. The • George Church (კლდისუბნის წმ. გიორგის Kashveti church was constructed between 1904 ეკლესია), Bethlehem Street (ბეთლემის ქ.) #7. and 1910 by the architect L. Bilfeldt, who based his design on the medieval . • Tvereli church (მიხეილ ტვერელის The construction was sponsored by the Georgian ეკლესია), Zaldastanishvili Street (ს. nobility and bourgeoisie. Kashveti was built on ზალდასტანიშვილის ქ.) #38. the site of a damaged church built of brick at the request of the Amilakhvari family in 1753. • Echmiadzin Armenian Church (წმინდა სერგოს Significant contributions to the current church’s ეკლესია) (In front of Avlabar Metro Station). Built ornate design were made by N. Agladze. Kashveti’s in 1805, and newly renovated. free. 13.4. SEE 49

13.4.3 Other Sights • Parliament (პარლამენტი), Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #8. • Georgian Academy of Sciences (მეცნიერების აკადემია), Rustaveli Square (Central Tbilisi.). • Presidential Palace, M. Abdushevelli 1 (Metro Avlabari). Inaugurated in summer 2009, an archi- • City Hall (საკრებულოს შენობა), Freedom square tectural monstrosity above the river, designed by ( square, თავისუფლების მოედანი), 2. Italian architect Michele De Luki. Guided tours Before City Hall stay the Monument of St. George may be booked seven work days in advance. • National Bank of Georgia (საქართველოს • ეროვნული ბანკი), Leonidze Street.( ლეონიძის Melik Kazariantsis House (მელიქ კაზარიანცის ქ.) № 3/5. სახლი), - Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.) #37 (Metro: 'Rustaveli'). • Children’s Palace (მოსწავლე ახალგაზრდობის სასახლე), - Shota Rustaveli Ave. #6. • Shota Rustaveli monument (შოთა რუსთაველის ძეგლი), - Shota Rustaveli Square (შოთა • Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and Public რუსთაველის მოედანი). Figures (Mtatsminda Mountain, in the churchyard around St. David’s Church - Mamadaviti). Many fa- • Academy of Sciences (საქართველოს mous writers, as well as the mother of Joseph Stalin, მეცნიერებათა აკადემია), - Shota Rustaveli are buried here. Ave. (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ), #48 (Metro: • Old Tbilisi (Area between Liberty Sq, slopes of the 'Rustaveli'). hill of Narikala Fortress and the river.). Perhaps one of the most distinctive pleasures of walking through • House of the Officers (ოფიცერთა სახლი), - the Old City, with its old-style balconies, ancient Shota Rustaveli Ave. #16 (Metro: 'Liberty Square'). churches, winding streets, and charming shops. Be prepared to see a number of eclectic sights, from • Theatre and Film University (თეატრისა და the abandoned streetcar near Erekle Street to the art კინოს სახელმწიფო უნივერსიტეტი), - Shota Rus- galleries of Chardini Street to the stunning modern taveli Ave. #19 (Metro: 'Liberty Square'). art lining Sioni Street. Sub-neighborhoods include Sololaki, with its elegant restaurants and art nou- • Gudiashvili monument (ლადო გუდიაშვილის veau architecture, Old Tbilisi proper — with sites ძეგლი), - April 9 Garden (9 აპრილის ბაღი) ranging from churches to mosques to sulfur baths, (Metro: 'Liberty Square'). Betlemi — housing two of the city’s oldest churches and the stunning vistas of the Narikala Fortress — • Library of the Parliament (საქართველოს and Mtsasminda, just up the mountain from Rus- პარლამენტის ბიბლიოთეკა), Lado Gudiashvili taveli Avenues, a more sedate, “livable” district filled Street. (ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ.) #3 (Metro: 'Liberty with charming old houses and a number of fami- Square'). lies. A large section has been refurbished in recent years turning parts into a sterile, tourist-trade and • Caucasian House (კავკასიის სახლი), Galaktion therefore purely overly consumption attuned quar- Tabidze Street.( გალაკტიონის ქ.) #20 (Metro: ter. Bars and restaurants largely overpriced. Even 'Liberty Square' 400 m). Segway rental is available — given the state of Tbil- isi pavements a ridiculous proposition. usually out- • Government Chancellery (საქართველოს rageous. მთავრობის კანცელარია), P. Ingorokva Street.(პ. ინგოროყვას ქ.) #7 (Metro: 'Liberty Square'). • Vake Park Area, around Chavchavadze and Abashidze avenues (From MetroDelisi to South 1.5 • km). This is one of Tbilisi’s posher districts, home to House of Writers (მწერალთა კავშირი), I . Ac- many expats and nouveaux riches. While not quite cording Street.( ი. მაჩაბლის ქ.) #11. as atmospheric as Old Tbilisi, Vake is home to some lovely parks, pleasant nineteenth-century architec- • Ietim Gurji monument (იეთიმ გურჯის ძეგლი), ture, and some of the city’s most high-end shopping, Right bank (მტკვრის მარჯვენა სანაპირო). including luxury furniture store Missioni. There are also plenty of elegant, if understated, bars and • Former Caravanserai (ქარვასლა), Sion (Zion) restaurants in this area. In Vake there are two build- Street. #8. ings of Ivane Javakhishvili . The university is founded by Ivane Javakhishvili in • Mother Georgia Monument (ქართლის დედა), 1918 and is one of the historical buildings in Tbilisi. Sololakis Alley (სოლოლაკის ხეივანი). 50 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• Telavi (NE ~100—km Marshrutkas depart more or less hourly from the Ortachalla marshrutka station. Price: 7 Lari. Duration: 2h30.). see an old fortress, the Alaverdi Cathedral, and a basis for exploring the mountains of Tusheti

• Trialeti Nature Park, Nichbisi-Didgori-Didi Toneti Botisi, (W 60km).

13.5 Do

• Alexander’s Garden (ალექსანდროვის ბაღი), Dry Bridge Area (მშრალი ხიდი) (Metro: Freedom Square). A part of Park April.

Ananuri’s fortress

13.4.4 Further afield

• Ananuri (N 60 km). — a castle and monastery overlooking the beautiful Reservoir

• Dmanisi archaeological site (SW 93 km). — a bronze age settlement and the 1.8 million year-old fossilized remains of the first human in Europe have been discovered here Narikala fortress at night • David Gareja (SE 70 km — No public transporta- tion, but chartering a taxi to and from there should cost around 100 Lari (including 2–3 hours on site). • Sulfur Baths, Bath Street (აბანოს ქუჩა) (From Ask your hotel for help.). — a 6th century cave MetroAvlabari 1.0km SW). The bath district is called monastery on a mountain lying just meters away Abanotubani and is on the south side of the Metekhi from Azerbaijan, with beautiful frescos bridge. It is easy to spot with its small domes on ground level. There are several small baths offer- • Gudauri (N 90 km). Ski resort ing different levels of comfort. The baths are rel- • Uplistsikhe (NW 60—km). Uplistsikhe — a 3,600 atively small, and you may have to wait for a pool year old Silk Road cave city that was a major re- to become available. English service is not guar- gional center of Caucasian pagan religion anteed. Massages are available; however, they are more like a washing, but well worth it for the expe- • Khashuri (NW 100 km). rience. You should bring your own towel and beach sandals but also they are available for a small fee. • Mtskheta (N 10 km). A UNESCO world heritage Some travelers have suggested the Royal Baths is a site, about 30 minutes by minibus much better alternative to Sulfur Baths (they are next to each other). Sulfur baths tend to double the price • Rustavi (SE 15 km). Sioni Church at the end of the massage and bath in spite of your original agreed price. (As of 2014, Sulphur Bath is • Sighnaghi (From Tbilisi marshrutkas run daily ev- closed for renovation). Other public bath in the area ery odd hour 7:00–17:00, the last one leaving at is called Public Bath No. 5. 18:00, from Samgori station. Travel duration is 1h45, cost 6 Lari (as of 2014).). a restored wine town. You can find sulfur baths in other districts, for example close to the metro station Marjanishvili, around the cor- • Shida Kartli. NW ~100—km is a region (Mkhare) ner of hostel Green Stairs, there is an old, characteris- in Georgia. tic bath. (#4 Kiev Street). Upstair is a men’s sauna for 13.6. BUY 51

7 lari but also a gay hangout. In the evening you can get a private bath for 10 lari and an additional towel is 2 GEL. Public Pool: 3-4 GEL; Private Pool: 10–80 GEL per hour; Massage 5–20 GEL.

• Turtle Lake (Kus Tba) (Take a taxi or walk up from Saburtalo.). This lake is located in the hilly outskirts of Tbilisi. A popular weekend getaway for families, the lake offers pedal-boat rentals as well as swimming (deckchairs optional) for reasonable prices (swimming entry, without deckchair, is about 3 Lari). Alright for a hot summer day, and offer- ing views of both the mountains and the city below. The Funicular reopened in December 2012 Snackbars, restaurants and fruit cocktail shakers are available overlooking the lake. It’s about an hour’s pleasant walk from the Saburtalo district along coun- • Locomotive Stadium. try roads, passing the Ethnographical Museum, or a • ten-to-fifteen minute (5–10 lari) cab ride from the Vake Swimming Pool, Chavchavadze Avenue center. While the lake itself isn't particularly nice, (ჭავჭავაძის გამზირი). the views from the hike up to the lake makes it a worthwhile . 13.5.1 Theatres • Lake Lisi (Lisis Tba), Reservoir Road (5.1km SW- • W). Much further out than Turtle Lake (a cab will Alexander Griboedov Russian State Drama set you back about 10–15 lari each way), Lake Lisi Theatre, Rustaveli Av. 2 (M1 'Liberty Square' 200 is much larger and more remote, with long, winding m), ☎ +995 32 293 58 11. mountain walks surrounding the lake. Unlike Turtle • Gabriadze Theatre, Shavteli 13 (M1 'Liberty Lake, the entire Lake Lisi is opened up for swim- Square' 500 m), ☎ +995 32 2986590. mers. Be warned — there aren't always taxis waiting to take you back. • Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre (თბილისის ოპერისა და ბალეტის თეატრი), Rustaveli Avenue • Climb up to the Narikala Fortress (Nearest Metro (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 25. MetroAvalabari.). The crumbling ruins of this once- great fortress, standing alongside the Upper Betelmi • Rustaveli National Theater (Shota Rustaveli The- Churches and the stunning Botanical gardens, offer ater, შოთა რუსთაველის თეატრი), Rustaveli Av- panoramic views of the city below. But be warned enue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 17. — it’s quite a steep climb, though you could take the • Cinema Rustaveli (კინოთეატრი რუსთაველი), cable car instead. Also while the lack of bureaucracy Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #5 and guard-rails can be liberating for some, you may (M1 'Liberty Square' 200 m). want to watch your step. • Tbilisi State Conservatory (თბილისის • Botanical garden, Sololaki St (Access via სახელმწიფო კონსერვატორია), Al.Griboyedov Botanikuri St., or from above thorough the fortress. Street. ( ალ. გრიბოედოვის ქ.) #8-10 (M1 'Liberty Nearest Metro MetroAvalabari.). varying with the Square' 500 m). seasons. National botanic garden of Georgia, founded 1845. Lying in the Tsavkisis-Tskali Gorge near Narikala Fortres, is actually more of a large badly maintained park with scenic waterfall than a 13.6 Buy “botanical garden” as there is no scientific signpost- • ing available. Very little maintenance is apparent. 1 The Saturday flea market (Dry Bridge Mar- GEL. ket), Dzveli Tbilisi, ~3 Zviad Gamsakhurdia Named Right Bank (by the river on the “Dry Overpass” and surrounding areas. From Metro Station Freedom • TV antenna park (Tbilisi Tower)(high on the hill. Square 0.6km NW). This is one of the best places Bus 124 or the funicular railway up from Metro Rus- to get jewelry, antiques, and even antique swords, as tavelli). bus until 23:00. to have fun with your kids, well as musical instruments and electronics. Hag- see the views of Tbilisi or to take a ride on the ferris gling is encouraged, although if you speak little wheel. The ride is 1.60 lari, and you need to buy an Georgian or Russian you may experience the odd access card at a cashiers desk for 2 lari. Funicular juxtaposition of bargaining for antiques using the ride is also 2 lari one- way. type-pad of your vendor’s mobile phone. 52 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• Main marketplace,?(across the river, near 13.7 Eat Didube). daily. for fruits and vegetables as well as electronics and DIY/hardware-store type supplies. 13.7.1 Georgian cuisine A further sprawling bazaar area is south-east from the main train station. Stree side stalls selling Georgian “fast food” are located • Gold, Silver, Precious Stones, and Other Jewelry all over the city. Some kind of hot snack will cost between Many foreigners visit Georgia to buy jewelry, be- 0.70-2.50 L. cause of its cheap cost and superior quality. • Dzveli Sakhli Restaurant(Old House), 3 Mtkvris • Art & Paintings – Georgian artists, such as Piros- Marjvena Sanapiro (Right on the Mtkvari River), ☎ mani, Gigo Gabashvili, David Kakabadze, Lado +995 322 36 53 65. 12:00-24:00. Live traditional Gudiashvili, Korneli Sanadze, Elene Akhvlediani, Georgian music and singing starts at around 18:00 Sergo Kobuladze, Simon Virsaladze, Ekaterine every day, although it’s also the perfect place for Baghdavadze, Maka Kiknadze-Kipiani and others, a quiet post-flea market weekend lunch. Stunning are famous for their work. In Georgia you will find river-views and faux-rural atmosphere — enormous many various art shops, paintings and painters who portions at relatively reasonable prices. Credit cards sell their works on the streets, including during the accepted. Saturday antique market. Their work is amazing and prices are very reasonable as well. • Shemoikhede Genatsvale, 25 Leselidze St (Metro • Tiflis Avenue Art center and Gallery Station Freedom Square), ☎ +995 32 2439646. De- (ტიფლის ავენიუ), 8/10 Erekle II St (Metro licious food cheaper than in the restaurants sur- Freedom Square), ☎ +995 577 50 64 50, e-mail: rounding it. Khinkali are around 0.50 GEL each. info@tiflisavenue.com. Tu-Su 16.00-21.00. This Try the ones filled with potato and beef with greens is represents a variety of Georgian artists working (seasonings). $7-10. in different media. The gallery is located in an old • Cafe Gabriadze, Shavtelis Qucha (Right off town, on King Erekle II Street, where exhibitions Baratashvili street, next to the puppet theatre). For- of art are held regularly. Tiflis Avenue also runs merly the trendy “Sans Souci,” this artsy eatery an online art store with the largest selection of (owned by master puppeteer Gabriadze himself) has contemporary . Entrance free. reopened after a lengthy renovation period. With a • Antiques & Other Misc. Gifts – in Georgia you quirkily bohemian decor and inventive takeoffs of will able to find many antiques not only from Geor- classic Georgian dishes (just try their lobio!), the gia, but Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Russian fare here is a cut above the standard khachapuri-and- and European as well. khinkhali dinner options. • Georgian Wine — Georgia is the cradle of wine • Kala, 8/10 Erekle II St, ☎ +995 899 799737. making, and with 521 original varieties of grape you 10:00–02:00. Hip cafe/restaurant with live Jazz will be sure to find excellent wines. most evenings. Seemingly twinned with its far cheaper neighbor KGBs. We–Fi; Credit card pay- • Cognac — Georgian cognac is unique as it’s made ment accepted. Food seems to have gone downhill from Georgian wine. in recent months, however, and is increasingly over- • Mineral Waters: — Borjomi, Sairme, Nabeghlavi priced for the quality. 20–25 GEL. mineral waters from Georgian resorts. • Chacha — Grape vodka, a Georgian version of grappa. • Goodwill grocery, Chavchavadze Avenue? (From M Rustaveli 3.2km W). Second only to Prospero’s Bookstore as an expat paradise, Goodwill offers an enormous range of products — mostly groceries, al- though the larger out-of-town branch stocks a wider supply — imported from the rest of Europe. From German fish to Italian pasta, Goodwill will sat- isfy all your brand cravings, albeit for significantly more than you'd pay at home. • Pixel 34, Ilia Chavchavadze ave., 34 (Bus 9, 21, 34, 51, 59, 61, 85, 88, 140 to 'Children’s City Mziuri' KGB Still watching you 50m). Shopping Centre 13.7. EAT 53

• KGBs, 8/10 Erekle II St (right next to Kala). With friendly women, this tiny take-out place serves a the tagline “we're still watching you,” this painfully wide variety of delicious home-style salads, in ad- hip piece of Soviet Kitsch wouldn't be out of place dition to a good selection of khatchapuri, at great in Williamsburg. Menu offerings include “Prole- prices. Make sure to ask for a “guruli” khatcha- tariat pizza” and meals advertised as “Lenin’s fa- puri, a style served with boiled egg inside that is vorite dish.” The cheque comes in vintage Soviet most commonly made during the holidays. If you're working papers. Much cheaper than Kala. 15 GEL. looking for a cheap, quick lunch but want to try something besides khatchapuri and lobiani, this is • Khinklis Sakhli (Khinkali Centre), 37 Rustaveli the place to visit. No English, but you can see and Ave (M Rustaveli 50m), ☎ +995 893 756671. 09:30- point to everything. 5 GEL. 23:30. All Khinkali, all the time. Does a wide range of other Georgian food too. The entrance isn't ob- vious, you have to enter an alleyway at No. 37 and 13.7.2 Asian cuisine then go down some steps into a courtyard. 12 GEL. • Chinese Restaurant (Off Perovskaya St). • Machakhela, N106 Davit Aghmashenebeli Av- enue, (M Marjanishvili), ☎ +995 322 911959. 10:00 • Vong Restaurant (I. Abadshize Qucha?). Pricey till 24:00. Biggest restaurant chain specialising but delicious fusion-Asian cuisine served in a deca- in Georgian pastries, with 10 locations in Tbilisi. dently authentic atmosphere 'Khachapuri'-traditional Georgian cheese pie, baked in wood-fired oven. Credit cards accepted. More • New Asia Restaurant, Griboedov Str, 29? (Up the units: 16 K. Marjanishvili, (M Marjanishvili); 23 hill from Metro Rustaveli at the corner of Lagidze and Tumaniani Str. (Metro Station Avlabari) Griboedovi streets. Opposite of Tbilisi State Conser- vatoire.). • Tamada, 37 Orbeliani St (Metro Technical Uni- versity), ☎ +995 322923280. 09:00–02:00. Ethno- • Qalaquri Sushi Bar, 13 Ioane Shavteli St (Near to graphic restaurant. Evenings Georgian music and 'Anchiskhati Church' -), ☎ +995 32 2000 260. Club: dances. WiFi available. 25 GEL. Th-Su from 20:00 /karaoke bar Daily from 19:00 / Restaurant - Daily from 11:00. Sushi + night club + • Taglaura, Mtkvari right coast, Vakhushti Bagra- Middle Eastern atmosphere, 4 floors. Cocktail Bar, tioni Bridge, ☎ +995 555 207700. Good Georgian and BBQ. food, locally brewed beer, traditional barbeque, live music and outdoor seating. Four locations in Tblisi. • Sushi Sake Bar, Street 4? (Perovskaya Beliashvili St. - Street?), e-mail: [email protected]. A bit pricey but de- pendable sushi. Service is usually nice. Same menu • Tsisqvili (Windmill), 9 Dzotsenidze St.?. Amaz- and management as Tokyo Restaurant. ing menu & food, superb customer service and great design. • Tokyo (in Vake, on Abashidze Street). Japanese Restaurant • Caravan, Purseladze Street. ? (Metro 'Rustaveli', off Rustaveli Avenue by the cinema). A travel- • Baan Thai, 4 Tabukashvili St (Follow the road themed “literary cafe” with East-meets-West decor, leading to the Radisson and continue past the Radis- a menu that fuses Georgian classics with Middle son as the road curves right. The restaurant is on the Eastern treats, and a whole host of travel books on left side of the road, if you see the back side of the the shelves. Free wifi. 15 GEL. Opera house, you've gone too far.). This is the most authentic Thai restaurant in the city, and a favorite of • Cafe Flowers, Avlabari Ascent (in the pink house local expats. Operated by a friendly Thai woman, it overlooking Europa Square. Metro Station Avlabari). has good food and quick service, but it’s easy to miss Sporting the most stunning views in Tbilisi, the ter- because it’s on an unremarkable street between the race at Cafe Flowers (so named for the gorgeous Opera house and Radisson hotel. 10-15 GEL. flora that adorn the terrace and adjacent garden) overlooks the Old Town from across the river. Food is generally good, although be wary of dairy-based 13.7.3 European/American dishes lest you come down with an upset stomach. 30 GEL. • Cafe de Paris, Saakadze square (in the city center). Famous for its tasty salads and crepes. Nice place to • Lunch ladies, Corner of Dzmebi Zubalashvilebi St spend time with friends. Outdoor garden seating. and Laghidze (From Metro Rustaveli, turn uphill at the big Magti store (number 22). Head uphill past • Cafe Canape, Abashidze Street (Vake). Reason- the Music Conservatory and look for a tiny hut on ably priced, charming bistro with fusion French- the street corner at the T-junction.). Run by three Georgian cuisine and a neighborhood-y atmosphere. 54 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

Definitely a place for Vake’s “smart set.” The • Prego, Three locations (Saburtalo, intersection of khachapuri is out-of-this-world. Vazha-Pshavela and Pekini St.; Vake, on Paliashvili, just below the round (UN) garden and the third in • Hadson and Hooker, Beliashvili Street (next the old town, Erekle II st.). Prices are said to be to Cruise), ☎ (822)−53-10-18. American reasonable and service is usually good. Look out for bar/restaurant. Live music every night from the daily specials - usually a bit pricier, but worth it. 20:30. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. • Piano, Tabidze Street (right next to People’s). This • Restaurant Mediterranean, 5 Irakli Abashidze, ☎ new Italian eatery feels more like a swank New 22-10-15. Lunch, dinner. The lively atmosphere, York restaurant than a Georgian-style trattoria, with authentic décor and creative cuisine all reflect the black-and-white Botticelli-inspired wallpaper and region that inspired the restaurant. The extensive uber-trendy minimalist light fixtures. The food is menu has Italian, French, Greek and Spanish in- reasonably priced for the — admittedly expensive fluences. Unique dishes, fresh salads and seafood, — area, but it’s good (especially the super-fresh pasta & risotto, grilled specialties and exclusive tomato-based sauces) and air-conditioned to boot. desserts have earned “Med” an impeccable reputa- Beware of the bread; it’s so delicious, you'll be full tion. The menu is complemented by an impressive before your appetizers arrive. wine list with a large “by-the-glass” selection and a • Solemio Italian Restaurant Lounge Bar, 27b full bar. Mitskevich Str. - Saburtalo. Pizza and other Ital- ian food. Delivers food to your home. WiFi. • Zandukeli 40, Zandukeli Street (Straight up the hill from the Philharmony). European bistro with an emphasis on German food. Food and service are 13.7.5 Other among the best in town, prices are very reasonable. Run by one of the longest-lasting expats in Tbilisi, Some outlets of sterile international hamburger “restau- Rainer Kaufmann rants” exist, also some “freed chicken” imitators in the city, offering the same kind of material Americans con- • Ronny’s Pizza, 3 Vaja Pshavelas (next to the sider “food” at prices which are high by local standards. archive building in Saburtalo), ☎ 2-472-472, e-mail: [email protected]. 11:00–22:00, 11:00– • Prospero’s Bookstore and Caliban’s Coffehouse, 23:00 Fridays and Saturdays.. Lunch, dinner, de- 34 Rustaveli Ave (located in a courtyard by the livery, take out and catering. Ronny’s pizza comes entrance to the overpass near the opera, past the in personal size, regular (12 inch) or extra large Sony store in the direction of the Rustaveli metro (18inch) Delivery charge based on kilometers all stop). With wireless internet, a bucolic courtyard, over Tbilisi. Classic American style pizza with moz- and spotless furnishings, this expat bookstore-cum- zarella. $$. coffeehouse could be located in London’s Notting Hill. The English books are reasonably priced, but the real gem is the atmosphere - a perfect escape 13.7.4 Italian cuisine for when Tbilisi’s more chaotic pleasures start to become overwhelming. Enjoy an iced coffee or • Segafredo Zanetti Espresso, 26 Chavchavadze a scrumptious , effectively bilingual wait- Ave. Expensive quality coffee and Italian + Euro- staff, and try to strike up conversations with other pean food. WiFi. foreigners.

• coffee.ge, Three locations (24 Abashidze Str., 41 Chavchavadze Ave., 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave.). 13.8 Drink Pizza and other Italian food. Delivers food to your home. WiFi. One is never far from a corner store opening late selling • Fiorino, 77 Kostava St. - Saakadze square. Fiorino the bare essentials of life late into the night, which always offers best pizzas in Tbilisi, one of the best carpac- include booze and bread. Georgia is known as the cradle cios and veal. Relaxing environment and outdoor of wine. Georgian wine was and still is the best in post- seating. Soviet culture. Georgia produces wine, and Georgians respect wine culture. Try one of the famous wines. The • Il Garage, Mozashvili street 26 (50m from Vake region which is popular for its wine production is Kakheti. park). Decent versions of risotto, linguini, lasagna, This place has a great history of wine. and an excellent, huge antipasti misto. Pleasant out- door seating in the summer and affordable prices • Dublin, 8 Akhvlediani St (Metro Rustaveli), ☎ +995 year round. Run by Alberto - a real Italian. 32 98 44 67. until 3:00. Irish pub with live music 13.8. DRINK 55

from 8PM-midnight. Try the meat wrapped in ba- for food rather than drinks, offers a wide selection con. 30 GEL. of Georgian and “western"-style food in addition to a good selection of coffee, tea, & alcoholic bever- • Fahrenheit, 5 Vashlovani St, ☎ +995 855 975117. ages. 2-4 USD. Live music everyday. • Entree, 20 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ 891 193968. 8:00— • Hadson & Hooker, 67 Beliashvili St (Next to 22:00. A great cafe with tasty pastries, good coffee, Cruise), ☎ +995 55 32 83 60. American bar. Ex- and free wi-fi. 5-10 GEL. otic wine tasting every Thursday. Live music every • evening/Can-can dancers/Billiards/darts Four Seasons, 4 Mickevich St (Steps from Gam- sakhurdia ave), ☎ +995 32-144440. 11:00–1:00. • Marco Polo, 44 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ +995 32 93 53 Cozy place with lounge-sitting rooms and unique in- 83. terior. . Prices are affordable and nice music is played. 15 GEL. • Old London, 6 Akhvlediani St, ☎ +995 57 27 91 94. Live music every evening. • Cafe Casablanca, Bambis Riga (Chardini St. Area) (Towards the end of Bambis Riga). With • Pub Kolkheti, The left bank of the River Mtkvari, Humphrey Bogart quotes on the menu and enor- ☎ +995 8 99 760654?. mous “Casablanca” posters on the wall, not to • Salve, Shalva Dadiani St 15 (located in the basement mention the tantalizing white piano indoors, Cafe of an apartment building on a street off Freedom Casablanca is an homage to one of cinema’s most Square), ☎ +995 32 920131. Features a Nintendo romantic movies. With a menu that blends retro game system. Very popular place. Americana and Moroccan cuisine, and Hollywood- price cocktails, this is one of the most atmospheric • Scarlet Sails, 25 Leselidze St, ☎ +995 32 931028. bars in the city. Live light jazz and chansons on Sat- On Fridays live music (light rock). urday.

• Toucan, 8 Kiacheli St, ☎ +995 32 922554, +995 32 • Elvis Cafe just opened in about July 2010 in the 996553. Live music performances. 30-35 GEL. Philharmonic Center (hint: take the underground walkway to get over - traffic is busy and unpre- • Hangar Bar, Irakli II Street (ერეკლე II ქუჩა) dictable). Elvis Cafe offers American, Italian, (Metro Station Freedom Square), ☎ +995 551 61 15 Thai/Asian fusion cuisine and sushi. They also have 88. Irish pub run by an American couple. Very pop- a bar (alcohol) and a nice selection of deserts. Food ular among expats. is fast and tasty, very clean and bright. Staff speaks English.

13.8.1 Cafés • Old City Wall Restaurant/Wine Centre, 1 Baratashvili str., ☎ +995 322 99 58 57. Daily Tblissi is the one city in Georgia where coffee vending 12:00–24:00/wine shop: 11:00–23:00. machines 0.50-0.80 Lari may be found. • People’s Cafe and Restaurant, 10 Tabidze St • Rooms Lounge, Bambis Rigi st. 12 (steps from Freedom Square), ☎ +995 32 45 0505, (Chardin area), e-mail: [email protected]. The 984851, e-mail: [email protected]. 11:00–2:00. thing that catches your eye first is the crystal beads. A favorite place for locals and foreigners as well. You can’t miss it; it cascades down over the bar, Great place with terrace and lounge sitting. Win- white and glorious. It’s just one of the highlight ner of the best public place interior award in 2007. in an incredibly striking space, designed by young Delicious food and friendly staff – place where you Georgian architects. The results form one of Tbil- can feel at home. 10–15 USD. isi’s most achingly fashionable lounge cafe-bars with both inside and outside.Decent drinks are served alongside a selection of standard European dishes. 13.8.2 Clubs Dining here becomes more glamorous when it gets • to Japanese fusion. By day it’s quite casual, a popu- Bamba Rooms Lounge, Bambis Rigi st. 7 lar lunch spot; by night it’s altogether different, the (Chardin area), e-mail: [email protected] crowd is glam and the door policy can be tough. unique and vibrant premier Restaurant & DJ Bar, having one of the chic locations at Tbilisi Chardin • Cafe Rustaveli, 30 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ +995 32 area, is one of the liveliest and trendiest spots at- 9858800?, fax: 032 935880, e-mail: info@cafe- tracting a younger, faster-living crowd and enthusi- rustaveli.ge. Currently closed due to bankruptcy, astic clubbers. A good combination of a restaurant but hopes to reopen following a lawsuit. More a café and a bar for around 300 people is perfect for a quiet, 56 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

romantic meal in early evenings while towards mid- [email protected]. Located in historical down- night at weekends the place erupts into a wild party town, near many city attractions and the Old town zone. *bamba rooms at bambis rigi street is proba- District, block away from Prospero’s Books. The bly the best and newest club in Tbilisi. You will feel property is located in a historical building with many like you're in London or New York with its great in- green, eco-friendly and sustainable elements, like terior and nice lounge music and techno. vintage and re-purposed furniture. The sign on the front of building for Boombully isn't the most no- • Buddha Bar, Rikhe,, ☎ +995 322 255222, e-mail: ticeable, so watch the building addresses as you pass [email protected]. 19:00–Late. Opened in March them. 2012. Latest arm of Buddha Bar Asian-inspired restaurant/lounge chain. Reservations are highly en- • City Hostel Waltzing Matilda, 11, Alexander couraged and sometimes a must. Reservations can Chavchavadze str. (from Metro Rustaveli near the be called in after 12:00 daily. An excellent place for Opera turn up the hill and go two blocks. -), ☎ +995 sushi and good lounge and electronic music. Expen- 55 554 590, e-mail: [email protected]. Friendly sive. people, amazing view of the city, free wi-fi, possi- ble airport transport for $20. dorm 17 GEL. • Cubic, 45 Kostava Str. One of the best places for good house music, real minimal techno and some- • Envoy Hostel, 45 Betlemi St (Off Gorgasali Mei- times some breakbeats and dnb. Entrance: 30 GEL. dan, in the Old Town area. - From Metro Free- dom Square 0.8km SE), ☎ +995 322 920111, e- • GURU Club, 12 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ +995 322 mail: [email protected]. Boasting a large ter- 983803, e-mail: [email protected]. ay, race with a view of the city. Their staff speak excel- Sat, Sun 22:00-07:00. Foreign DJs and singers & lent English and are very knowledgeable and help- G.U.R.U. show girls ful. Newly renovated and clean, it has a high ratio of bathrooms per beds. Free breakfast is offered daily • KalaKuri Restaurant/Club, 13 Shavteli St (Mtats- as well as Tea/ Coffee available all day. Free Wi-Fi, minda District), ☎ +995 322 996683. Club: Fri and laundry service, airport pick up and air conditioning/ Sat from 23:00; Restaurant: 12:00–13:00; Lounge central heating are just some of the conveniences of- Bar: 17:00–03:00. Good night club, pop, 90s and fered. They also offer tours around Georgia as well modern music. as Armenia (including a weekly tour that takes you from Tbilisi to Yerevan with sightseeing and a bbq • Night Flight, Baratashvili Street (Under lunch!). They also have a hostel in Yerevan (ranked Baratashvili bridge). Open on Fridays and as Best Hostel in Armenia by HW 2010&11). Saturdays.. Supposedly has the best house, trance, dance, club music, Georgian and foreign DJs in • Fox Hostel, 30 Griboedov St (Metro Rustaveli, Tbilisi. Drinks are a bit expensive, but worth it. walk south, just 50 m up the hill, opp. Radis- Entrance: 30 GEL. son Blue Hotel), ☎ +995 322 102726, e-mail: [email protected]. Renovated 2nd floor apartment in old building (sign on balcony). Cheer- 13.9 Sleep ful interior design by a woman with taste. Com- munity kitchen and lounge. Spotlessly clean, and -- quite unusual for Georgia -- solid bathroom fixtures. 13.9.1 Budget dorm 20 GEL.

• В Тбилиси! (In Tbilisi!), Intersection Tsi- • Green Stairs Hostel, Tsinamdzgvrishvili Street, 53 namdzgvrishvili Street ~53 and Giorgi Mazniashvili (walk east from Metro Marjanishvili one block, turn St (Around the corner of Green Stairs-hostel, on right and it'll be a 5min walk on the left). Free WiFi the groundfloor behind the grey courtyard-door. - and a communal fridge. The hostel is very simple, Metro Marjanishvili), ☎ +995 591 207186, e-mail: but run by a nice couple who speak English. It’s a [email protected]. Homestay/hostel run by little cold in the winter, but each room does have a Gia, a friendly elderly man who, besides this hos- space heater. The owner will drive you to the airport tel, helps tourists to explore the wide surroundings for 25 GEL. 25 GEL/room. of Tbilisi, also with his ancient blue taxi. The rooms are large, the beds comfy and the sheets • Maria Tours and Hostel, Freedom and shower clean. Gia speaks way better Russian Square/Liberty Sq. 4, 2nd floor (Metro Lib- then English though. 25 lari. erty Sq. Next door to Marriott Courtyard.), ☎ 599 208989, e-mail: [email protected]. • Boombully Rooms & Hostel, Rustaveli Ave. 24 Check-in: 14:00, check-out: noon. Carters mainly (across from Opera House. - Metro Rustaveli), to Arab families with small children, due to location ☎ +995 322 931638, +995 551 100172, e-mail: additional traffic noise. Security camera installed 13.9. SLEEP 57

inside the dorm watching your sleep. Laundry 5 L. • Tbilisi Friends Hostel, Betlemi Str. #28- Dorm 25 L.. 30, entrance up from ascent Tumaniani street 9 (Old Tbilisi,), ☎ +995 577 737771, e-mail: • Old Town Hostel, Khodasheni/Iveria Street 7 [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. Near the (Walk down from Freedom Sq. to Leselidze St Narikhala Fortress, surrounded by the traditional and in 2 min you turn on your right (in front balconied Georgian houses and architecture. The of TBC Bank Leselidze branch) - Metro Freedom building itself is a historic one, with old-styled inte- Square), ☎ +995 32 986188, +995 71004002, e- rior. 10 beds in dorm and 2 privates.Nice balcony mail: [email protected]. Check-in: and common area, Old Town view, bar, BBQ area, 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Comfortable beds, clean, guest kitchen. two showers. Dorm:€8, Privates: cozy, and friendly hostel. Airport transfer is possi- €12. ble. €10-14. • REST Hostel Tbilisi, 68 Dimitri Uznadze • Tbilisi Hostel, Avlabari, Makhati turn 22 (From St (Near MetroMarjanishvili metro station), ☎ Metro Avlabari metro station 0.4km NE, from the +995 598 111469, +995 599 164249, e-mail: exit turn right and pass the market and bear right). [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check- Run by ex-backpackers. Popular among young out: 11:00. Has 6 beds and one extra bed. Luggage backpackers, particularly those who are very price- storage, 24 hour reception (you may need to call conscious. Can be crowded and noisy. Free Internet though), Internet, computers, free Wi-Fi in room, & WiFi; guest kitchen; cheap laundry service. Ad- cable TV/DVD, free towels, linen included, air con- vertises itself as a 'party hotel'. dorm: €10.55. ditioning, guest kitchen, shared bathroom/shower, • laundry. Car service 4WD, and can organize tours Veziko apartments, 10 Chonkadze Street, (From to the North-West. However, avoid their second, Metro Freedom Square 0.3km West), ☎ +995 93 much more noisy hostel “Honey Hostel Tbilisi”. 16 39 36, e-mail: [email protected]. €11. Warm and cosy apartments to stay at, a lovely and hospitable family run this place in Old Tbilisi, so • Rover Hostel, 14 Anton Purtseladze St (From Rus- backpackers who are into local lifestyle would be taveli Avenue turn down at the crossroads with Purt- able to feel it by staying in a real georgian house, seladze St (next to the Rustaveli Cinema, in front of about 25$ per night/double bed. internet, stove and the building of parliament) and in one and a half bath is available. blocks you are there. - Metro Freedom Square), ☎ +995 32 936520. Check-out: 11:00. Clean and well • Walker Hostel, 19 Gomi St (From Metro Free- arranged hostel with comfortable, quiet, and safe dom sq. to Leselidze st. in the end of Zdanevich rooms. There is a common room for guest use with upturn (behind Bethlemi st. 27).), ☎ +995 free internet access, WiFi, coffee and tea. There 322 14 65 75, +995 555 55 66 65, e-mail: is one bathroom/shower with hot water all day long. [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, Clean sheets, luggage storage, spacious lockers, per- check-out: 13:00. Cozy rooms, big living room, sonal reading lights and plugs, fully equipped laun- kitchen and balcony with incredible view. 24h re- dry and kitchen facilities. 25 GEL. ception, fan, airport transfers (11€), BBQ area, bi- cycle parking, cable TV, free parking, free WiFi, • Star Hostel, 45 Vertskhli St (From Freedom Square laundry, linen and towels included, lockers, luggage walk north down Pushkini street, take first right storage, tours/travel desk. €10. at Vertskhli and you will see the sign.), ☎ +995 32 995099, e-mail: [email protected]. • Why Not Tbilisi Legend Hostel, Tabukashvili Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. 2 Bed Apart- 15/4 (in centre. - Metro Freedom Square), ☎ +995 99 ment Ensuite available. Recently renovated and has 007030, e-mail: [email protected]. €10- all the modern amenities, including cable flat screen 15. TV/DVD, free Internet & WiFi and a well supplied kitchen. Run by a friendly speaking couple. Not the coziest place, but owner can provide good informa- 13.9.2 Mid-range tion. Dorm: €12 per person per night. • Tamuna’s Guesthouse, 32. Arnold Chikobava • Beaumonde, 11 Chavchavadze St (Next to Rustaveli St near sabchos moedani (From Metro Marjanishvili Avenue), ☎ 986-003. A beautiful bed/breakfast with Metro NE 0.3km), ☎ +995 99 183555, +955 90 dinner. There are balconies and a roof deck. The 527818, e-mail: [email protected]. Two breakfast and dinner are very filling. There is free bedrooms available, laundry facilities, free internet, internet. The family that runs the hotel is very warm living room, kitchen open for use, many TV chan- and welcoming. Staff speaks Georgian, Russian, nels, well heated in the winter. English is spoken and some English. Sgl €70; Dbl €88, breakfast in- here. 20-25 GEL per person/night. cluded. 58 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• Betsy’s Hotel, 32-34 Kote Makashvili St (Metro • VIP Hotel, 31, Leselidze Street. This is a lovely ho- Rustaveli), ☎ +995 931404, 923996, 982615, e- tel in a quiet coutyard with views over the river. The mail: [email protected]. 57 rooms. No pricing infor- owners are really charming people and the break- mation on website. fast is excellent., ☎ +995 99532923336. €50-60 per night. • SkadaVeli, 27 Vertskhli str (Metro Freedom Square), e-mail: [email protected]. Light, quiet and comfortable apartment located in Kala 13.9.3 Splurge neighborhood. 70-80 L. per room for 3rd p. +30 L.. • Betsy’s Hotel, 32-34 Makashvili St (From MetroRustaveli 0.5km SW), ☎ +995 32 931404, fax: • Hotel Ata, 17, Leselidze St (Metro Freedom +995 32 999311, e-mail: [email protected]. Square), ☎ +995 32 987715, fax: +995 32 986026, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: noon, • Courtyard Marriott Tbilisi (სასტუმრო check-out: noon. Dbl 100 Lari. "ქორთიად-მარიოტი"), 4 Freedom Square (თავისუფლების მოედანი) (Metro Freedom • Hotel British House, 32 Belinski St, ☎ +995 32 Square), ☎ +995 322 779200, fax: +995 32 988783, e-mail: [email protected] 779210. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. friendly personalised bed & breakfast. €70-100. Six-storied Courtyard Marriott Hotel was built at • Hotel , 53 Barnov Street, (From Metro 1990’s, in post-modernist style. US$185+ per night. Rustaveli 0.7km West), ☎ +995 32 291252, e-mail: • Hotel Vere Palace, 22-24 Kuchishvili St [email protected]. 5 rooms. Very comfortable (Near the Zoo and Hero’s Square. - Metro hotel in Vere, safe location with very friendly multi- Rustaveli), ☎ +995 32 253340/41/42, e-mail: lingual staff. Free WiFi. US$50-US$100, breakfast [email protected]. 4-star hotel. included. • Mercure Tbilisi Old Town, 9 Vakhtang Gorgasali • Hotel Charm, 11 Chakhrukhadze St (From Metro street, ☎ +995 322 00 60 60. Check-in: 14.00, Freedom Square 0.7km East), ☎ +995 32 985333, e- check-out: 12.00. A four star hotel. Hotel ameni- mail: [email protected]. 7 rooms. Very nice ho- ties: fitness and a sauna bath. $170 single room tel with very friendly staff. US$40-US$100, break- without breakfast. +$18 for breakfast. (updated Oct fast included. 2015) • Hotel Georgian House, 38 Vakhtang VI St (From • Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel, Rose Revolution Metro Avlabari 0.7km NE), ☎ +995 32 2791919, Square 1 (Metro Rustaveli), ☎ +995 32 402200, fax: +995 32 2791920, e-mail: [email protected]. e-mail: [email protected]. Glass tower Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Sgl: €35; Dbl: overlooking the river. 249 rooms. The fanciest ho- €45 including breakfast and VAT. tel in the city. • Prestige Hotel, 51 Marjanishvili St (in north, • Sheraton Metechi Palace Hotel, Issani (Metro 300 central Tbilisi on a quiet street), ☎ +995 91 Aragveli Subway Station), ☎ +995 32 772020, fax: 141500. Quiet, comfortable, newly renovated.+ +995 32 772120. 15 minute walk to the Old City phones=+995 32 940505, +995 32 942974, +995 US$200+ per night. 32 952974 US$50 including breakfast. • Tbilisi Marriott Hotel (სასტუმრო "თბილისი • Hotel River Side, Brosse Street Turn | Right side მარიოტი"), 13 Rustaveli Prospekt (შოთა of Mtkvari (Metro Freedom Square). Really nice, რუსთაველის გამზ.) (Metro Freedom), ☎ +995 32 comfortable. friendly staff. Free WiFi. US$110- 779200, fax: +995 32 779210. Check-in: 15:00, US$140. check-out: 12:00. From €152. • Hotel VIP Victoria, D. Arakishvili I Lane, 3 (From Metro Rustaveli 1.0km West), ☎ +995 32 291877, +995 32 251247, e-mail: [email protected]. 13.10 Stay safe Over 100$. • TBILOTEL, 8, Daraselia str (Metro Medi- Tbilisi is very safe after the Rose Revolution. The po- cal University), ☎ +995 32 387804, e-mail: lice system was reformed completely and the recent polls [email protected]. 24/7. a High Class Business show that public’s trust in police shifted from nearly 10% and Leisure Hotel. offers 18 very comfortable room, to 88%. The police are usually quick to respond, though standard and semi-suites, with balconies, Free Wi- usually only Georgian and Russian are spoken. Fi Internet, satellite TV and international phone. While walking is generally fine, even for solo women, it Double: 170-190 Lari. makes sense to take a bus or taxi home at night. Use 13.13. COPE 59

common sense and big-city awareness. Night time at the Be careful about renting DVDs from Prospero’s book- clubs and bars are safe, and taxi service is safe as long as store - there is quite a selection, but as most of them are it’s a company taxi like “009” or others. The public bus pirated, almost half of all their DVD stock is of a poor is also a good, safe option for 0.50 lari. quality. For your peace of mind, you can check any DVD on a player in the cafe before you rent it. • Police Tel: 112

• Ambulance tel: 112 13.13.1 Embassies

• Armenia, 4 Gia Tetelashvili Street, 0102, ☎ +995 13.11 Stay healthy 32 295-1723, +995 32 295-9443, fax: +995 32 296- 4287, e-mail: [email protected].

• Medi Club Georgia, 22a, Tashkenti St (Metro: • Azerbaijan, 4 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0114, ☎ “Medical University” 300 m walk to Taskent lane cor- +995 32 224-2220, fax: +995 32 224-2233, e-mail: ner opp- of its), ☎ +995 32 2251991, fax: +995 [email protected]. 9:00-18:00. 32 2250911, e-mail: [email protected]. One of 'designated' medical clinic for foreigners. • Brazil, 6/2 Gia Chanturia street, 0108, ☎ +995 (The official bills from here accepted some national 32 293-2419, fax: +995 32 293-2416, e-mail: health insurance). Emergency Contact: +995 599 [email protected]. 581991 • , 15 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0105, ☎ +995 32 291-0194, +995 32 291-019495, +995 Quality drugs without a prescription, can be obtained 577233030, fax: +995 32 291-0270, e-mail: from pharmacies. Recommended the priority attention [email protected]. to the warranties of the drugs! • About H1N1 or any other infectious diseases you could Estonia, 4 Likhauri street, 0171, ☎ +995 get information on the website 32 236-5122, fax: +995 32 236-5138, e-mail: [email protected].

• (Ambassade de France), 49 Krtsanisi St, 13.12 Connect ☎ +995 32 272 1490, fax: 272 1355, e-mail: [email protected]. M-Th 09.00-13.00 There are 3 GSM operators of mobile phone service: and 14.00-18.00 and Fri 09.00-13.00 and 14.00- 16.30. • Magticom: provides 3G, covers all of Georgia. • , 20 Telavi street, Hotel „Sheraton Metekhi Palace“ (300 Aragveli Subway Station), • Geocell: provides 3G, covers all of Georgia, packet ☎ +995 32 244 7300, fax: 244 7364, e- data deals available for prepaid mail: info@tiflis.diplo.de. Mo-Th 08:30–17:30, Fr • Beeline: Russian company, the cheapest of all sim 08:30-14:30. cards, but does not get the best reception in some • (Magyarország Nagykövetsége, Tbil- areas. buy a sim card at the office on Rustaveli Av- iszi, Georgia), 83 Lvovi Street on some map enue. Kushitashvili street (off Budapesht Street), Sabur- talo district (Metro: “Medical University” 0.7 km), ☎ +995 32 2399008, +995 595 580777 13.13 Cope (Emergency), fax: +995 32 2399004, e-mail: [email protected]. • Tourism Office, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Ave.3 (Metro Liberty Sq. exit - on the south side of Free- • Iran, 80 Ilia Chavchavadze Ave (From M dom Square—on the ground floor Georgia Museum S3.5km. - At Vake Cemetery), ☎ +995 of History). - upon arriving in Tbilisi. They provide 32 291 3656, +995 32 2913658, +995 32 a free, very detailed booklet with a map of the city 2913659, +995 32 291660, fax: 2913628, e-mail: but little other information. [email protected]. • Iraq, 17 Lvov St, ☎ 223 4501, 223 4502, 223 4503, Ask at Marriott Courtyard if you're lost - the staff are fax: 229 4503, e-mail: [email protected]. fairly fluent in English, and they are more than happy to provide you with free maps, and help you locate whatever • Israel, 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave, ☎ +995 32 255 65 you're looking for on a map before you leave. 00, fax: 255 65 33, e-mail: [email protected]. 60 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• , 3a Chitadze St, ☎ 299 64 18, 292 13.14.3 Within Georgia 14 62, 292 18 54, fax: 299 64 15, e-mail: [email protected]. • Batumi (W ~250 km by night & day train, plane, or bus/minibus) – on the Black Sea • Japan, 7d Krtsanisi St, ☎ 275 21 11, fax: 275 21 20, e-mail: [email protected]. • Bakuriani (W ~160 km ), a ski resort

• Latvia, 16 St, ☎ 224 48 58, fax: 238 14 • Borjomi(W ~160 km by train, leaving early in the 06, e-mail: [email protected]. morning, or minibus 5hrs) a • Lithuania, 25 Tengiz Abuladze street, 0162, ☎ 291 • 29 33, fax: 222 17 93, e-mail: [email protected]. Mount Kazbeg (N 157 km) – one of the highest mountains in Europe is also home to one of the most • Swiss, Krtsanisi St (კრწანისის ქუჩა). spectacularly situated monasteries in the world

• Turkey, 35 Chavchavadze Ave, ☎ 225 20 72, 225 20 73, 225 20 74, 225 20 76, fax: 222 06 66, e-mail: [email protected].

• , 51 Krtsanisi St, ☎ 227 47 47, fax: 227 47 92, e-mail: [email protected].

• United States, 11 Balanchini St, ☎ 227 70 00, 253 23 34, fax: 253 23 22, e-mail: [email protected].

View of Mestia, Georgia

• Mestia (NW ~360 km).

• Ozurgeti (W ~200 km via night train, leaves around 21:45, arrives 6:10. There is also a marshutka from Station Square (the train station), which leaves at 16:00 and arrives around 22:00), is a regional center.

• National Parks - Mestia-Svaneti, Borjomi- Kharagauli, Telavi-Gurjaani

Mount Kazbeg

13.14 Go next

13.14.1 Armenia

• Yerevan (by night train, bus or taxi. No visa required for EU or US. See more: Tbilisi#Get in)

13.14.2 Azerbaijan

• Baku, Azerbaijan – by night train or bus Chapter 14

Rioni Region

Rioni Region is a lush, green, mountainous region in 14.4 Understand western Georgia along the Rioni River. 14.5 Talk 14.1 Regions Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the re- • Imereti gion, but much of the older generation speak Russian. The younger generation is increasingly speaking English • Racha due to hostility towards Russia, and because English has replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation- wide since independence. When in need for help, look 14.2 Cities for younger people, as they are more likely to know some English. • Kutaisi — historically the capital of western Geor- gia, Kutaisi is a must visit for its two UNESCO World Heritage sites 14.6 Get in • — the capital of Racha is gritty, but at- tractive, very leafy, and up a very steep road leading 14.7 Get around to the Greater Caucasus • 14.8 See • — a rather town of Lower Svaneti, which boasts several 10th century churches, a castle, and 14.8.1 Itineraries Svan towers in a nearby village • Oni — a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni River 14.9 Do up in the mountains that was for millennia a center of Georgian Jewish culture. Today it is becoming a major tourist destination for domestic travelers as 14.10 Eat well as attracting adventurous foreign travelers at- tracted to its natural beauty, remote setting and a local culture that has not seen the effects of tourism 14.11 Drink yet • 14.12 Stay safe • 14.13 Go next

14.3 Other destinations Georgia’s principal east-west highway passes through Ku- taisi, and you can get to pretty much anywhere from there. • Shovi — a high alpine Soviet-style resort near the To the east, past the highway junction at Khashuri are the source of the Rioni River in Upper Racha; simply Kartli cities of Gori and Tbilisi to the east and Borjomi unbelievable hiking opportunities to the south.

61 62 CHAPTER 14. RIONI REGION

There is a road leading north from Lentekhi that is the principal route into the high mountain villages/fortresses of Svaneti. And lastly, there is a road leading east from Oni towards Tskhinvali, South Ossetia, but this route is susceptible to highway banditry, carjacking, and kidnap- ping and is not recommended. Chapter 15

Kutaisi

But a visit here is nonetheless near mandatory to see the magnificent Bagrati Cathedral, and Gelati Monastery, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and have commanding views from the mountain slopes over the city and the Rioni river.

15.2 Get in

15.2.1 By plane Kutaisi old town • King David the Builder International Airport (IATA: KUT), Kopitnari, 14 km west of Kutaisi proper on the main S1 highway. The airport services domestic flights to Tbilisi, and several international flights. The Hungary-based low-cost carrier Wizz Air provides very cheap flights to/from Budapest, Hungary; Vilnius, Lithuania; Warsaw and Katowice, and Kiev, Ukraine. That made Kutaisi very attractive place to fly into from Eastern Europe. Georgian Airways and Ural Airlines flies to Moscow, Russia while Belavia offers flights to Minsk, . There are also occasional flights to Baghdad, Iraq on Iraqi Airways. (updated Feb 2015)

Downtown Kutaisi Transportation to the airport:

Kutaisi is a city in the Rioni Region of Georgia. • Georgian Bus provides shuttle bus service between the airport and Kutaisi city center, Tbilisi and Batumi, with bus schedules following flight arrivals. 15.1 Understand Shuttle buses to Tbilisi (20 GEL, four hours) termi- nate at Freedom Square, while shuttle buses to Ba- Kutaisi is the traditional rival of Tbilisi for capital sta- tumi (18 GEL, three hours) terminate at the Radis- tus, and has since the days of the Golden Fleece been son Blu Hotel. Shuttle buses to Kutaisi city center (5 considered the capital of Western Georgia (then Ancient GEL) will stop at any address within the city. Tick- Colchis). It remains Georgia’s second largest city, but to ets may be purchased online or upon arrival with the irritation of the proud locals, does not come even close cash or bank card at the Georgian Bus counter lo- to Tbilisi’s present day size and wealth. Since the Geor- cated near the exit, and when returning to the air- gian government decided to move their parliament to Ku- port, may also be purchased directly from the driver. taisi, there has been a lot of work on restoring streets, Be advised that if you're riding the Georgian Bus buildings, parks and monuments and the city has become service from Kutaisi, you must e-mail them with the much safer. The seat of the state parliament was removed name of the hotel from which you will be picked up here a few years ago. from.

63 64 CHAPTER 15. KUTAISI

• Marshrutkas from points east headed towards Ba- 15.3 Get around tumi or Samtredia, or from points west towards Kutaisi or Tbilisi, will also drop passengers off at The interesting parts of the town are walkable. To visit the airport, which is convenient for passengers who the monasteries in the mountains nearby booking a day- have missed the Georgian Bus service to the airport. tour may be a time-saving option. From Tbilisi, a marshrutka from the Didube bus ter- minal to the airport is 20 GEL. It is also possible to walk out of the airport onto the highway and hail a marshrutka if headed to a particular destination. 15.3.1 By bus

15.2.2 By train No.1 city bus is a useful circular route (both clockwise and anticlockwise direction) linking the main city square, • Kutaisi I, Tamar Mepe St. Kutasi I (main train station), and Kutaisi II (bus station). 0.4 Lari, pay the driver at exit, change given. From Kutasi • Kutaisi II station (southwest. From this station get- II (bus station), clockwise direction (to the left, cross the ting a cab is an option, 5 GEL all over town). Train road from McDonalds) is the faster route to the city cen- from Tskaltubo are running to Kutaisi II station. tre. Note each direction takes slightly different route on the centre of the city (east side of the river). The clock- • Rioni station, Kutaisi--Abastumani- wise direction does not go in front of Kutasi I but goes Benara Road (7.3km south of Kutaisi.). There are south on Tsereteli St. along the river. The anticlockwise more night and day trains running to Tbilisi Central direction stops in front of Kutaisi I then goes uphill on from here Solomon Piveli Street and downhill on 26 Maisi (May) Street towards the main square. All trains from and to Tbilisi Central leave from and arrive at the modernized Kutaisi I station. There are Local marshrutkas ply the city but are difficult to find the three daily departures to the capital. All Georgia Rail route for avarage tourists. Timetable A ticket with reserved seat costs (passport re- quired for purchase) minimum 5 GEL. Also stops in Mtskheta (old capital of Georgia), Gori (birthplace of 15.3.2 By train Stalin) and Zestafoni. Nice journey but slow due to long intermediate stops. A local, but “fast” train runs from Kutaisi I to Batumi (listed in the timetable — the name of the station about 8 km north of Batumi), leaving at 9:00, ar- riving 3 hours later. Cost 4 GEL, payable on the train. Trains to Kharagauli leave every day. (4-10 GEL, 3.5 h)

15.2.3 By bus

• Bus station (From the bus station (southwest of town) to go to the city center: cross the road, and take bus #1 that goes directly to the city center. Cost: 0.30 Lari.).

Mini-buses ('marshrutkas’) and full 54-passenger buses depart regularly for Kutaisi from 'Didube Bus Station' lo- cated at the Didube metro stop in Tbilisi. Marshrutkas (hourly, 3.5 hours, 10 lari); large buses (every three hours, 4 hours). Minibuses to Borjomi leave every day, every hour (8 Gel, 2 hr). Minibuses to Kharagauli leave every day, twice a day (10 GEL, 3.5 h).

15.2.4 By car Kutaisi Train Schedule (Aug 2015) 15.4. SEE 65

• White Bridge over the river Rioni, known by the bridge Springer scene in the movie “Neobyknoven- naja Vystavka” • , Irakli Abashidze St (in the west of the city on the main road to Tskaltubo). Com- pleted in 2012. It was one of the most prestigious projects of President to relo- cate the parliament from Tbilisi to Kutaisi. How- ever, the relocation of Parliament is cancelled by the new government Ivanishvili. In what way this new 50 million-euro building will be used is still unclear.

Bagrati Cathedral 15.4.1 Museums

• Small Local History museum, Rustaveli Ave. and Tesereteli St. corner. 10:00-18:00. with English signs like “pottery shreds” offering very little in- depth information 3 Lari. • Kutaisi Museum of Sport. • Kutaisi Museum of Martial Art. • Museum of Zakaria Paliashvili. • David Kakabadze Fine Art Gallery, 8 Shota Rus- taveli Street. Houses collections of the 19th and 20th century artists

White bridge 15.4.2 Further afield 15.4 See

• Bagrati Cathedral (UNESCO World heritage site), Leselidze street (Towering above the town, just walk up the hill.). Ancient church originally built in the 11th century. Foundations of an earlier build- ing have been found. Blown up by marauding Is- lamic invaders in the 18th century, then carefully restored over the last 100 years, the interior also al- most completed. The difference between original and replacement is clearly obvious. The ongoing reconstruction aimed at returning Bagrati Cathedral back to its original state as a religious space has led ICOMOS to recommend that it should be left as a Gelati Monastery ruin and added to the list of UNESCO World Her- itage Sites in danger. Free admission. • Gelati Monastery (გელათის მონასტერი), 7, • Uqimerioni Fortress (adjacent to Bagrati Cathe- Nazarishvili str. (NW 11 km of Kutaisi. There is a dral, 50 meters behind it). minibus going to the monastery departing from Ku- • Synagogue, Boris Gaponov Street. taisi’s Opera Thater, costs 1 GEL, leaves at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00 and going back 30 min- • St. Thekla church, Chonkadze St. utes later. Alternatively get to the turn to Gelati monastery on the Kutaisi-Tbilisi road by train or bus • St the prophet church., Chekhovi Street I. and walk for 2 km from there uphill). • St. and Justina church, David Ag- • Motsameta Monastery (მოწამეთა) (NW 6 km mashenebeli Ave,. of Kutaisi. Get to the turn to Gelati monastery on the 66 CHAPTER 15. KUTAISI

15.5 Do

• Torpedo Kutaisi F.C. (Givi Kiladze Stadium), Giorgi Brtskinavale. See the local football team in a match at the Givi Kiladze Stadium. 2 GEL.

• Do as the locals do: Sit in the city centre park and watch the world pass by.

15.5.1 Theatres

• Lado Meskhisvili Theater, Gelati Street.

• Puppet Theater. Geguti Palace

15.5.2 Parks Kutaisi-Tbilisi road, “Kutaisi-Gelati” minibus passes it. Besides, Motsameta is about 5km from Gelati • Botanical Garden “Kolchuri” (in the north of the Monastery (which is about 1 hr walk following the city on the main road towards Zageri). Rather small road)). XI century monastery richly decorated with but still nice botanical garden. Some trees has signs frescoes. in English. There is also interesting chapel built in- side the tree. 3 GEL.

• Geguti Palace, Geguti village (S 15 km). One of • Park of Culture and Rest (Besik Gabashvili Park), the few secular monuments of the medieval Geor- Vazha Pashavela St. gian kingdom, located on the banks of the River Ri- • oni.. It is well preserved and developed for tourism. Central Garden (ქუთაისის ბულვარი, ბაღის It’s not protected anyhow and thus it’s free to enter. კიდე), Rustaveli Avenue. • Kharazov Park, Solomon Pirveli Street. • archaeological site (ვანი) (41 km southwest • Youth Park (Pionerta Park), Tbilisi-- in Imereti region). one of the most important cities Leselidze Rd.. of antique Colchi, from VIII-VI century B.C. have been discovered. The city was destroyed in I century • Kikvidze Park, Zviad Gamsakhurdia St. A.D.

• Sataplia Nature Reserve (SW 10 km). Three 15.6 Buy main attractions of the reserve - a pavilion with well- preserved dinosaur tracks, karst cave and glass bal- • Bazaar, off Zakhira Paliashvili (Paliashvili V Aly) cony - an observation deck on top of the mountain St. the main drag Sataplia (highest point of the reserve). • Regular stores, along Tsereteli St..

• Prometheus Cave (პრომეთე მღვიმე), located in village Kumistavi (Minibus from Kutaisi central bus 15.7 Eat terminal(bus 34), Tskaltubo overpass(bus 44?) and adjacent area of Red bridge(bus 30 from city center cross the bridge and stop is on the left) to Tskaltubo Kutaisi has quite a big number of decent restaurants de- leave every day, several times a day (1 Gel, 30 min) spite how poorly the city looks itself. They are mainly further Minibus N42 from Tskaltubo central mar- located in the city center but a bit spreaded so just walk ket to Prometheus cave leaves every day except Mon- around to find what you're looking for. day (1 GEL, 20 min). Taxi from Tsakltubo costed 5GEL). One of Georgia’s longest natural caves, with • Sudarushka (სუდარუშკა, Сударушка), Clinda fabulous stalactites and stalagmites and underground Nino st. No. 13, ☎ 970 93 93 98. 09:00 - lake. Overnight option: Hotel Spa Kurorti, 23 02:00. Authentic Russian cuisine from the owners Rustaveli Street, Tskaltubo, ☎ +995 599 563115. who know how to cook it right. Food tastes good, 59 comfortable rooms for 118 people. 60 GEL per big portions, nice personal, Russian music as an ac- night,inc. breakfast. companiment. Note this place doesn't have English 15.9. SLEEP 67

sign on the entrance so just look for a wooden sign leaves anything to be desired. The beds are clean (saying სუდარუშკა Сударушка) or a window with and the house is good by local standards, and the a Russian girl in a national costume in it. 3-8 GEL new bathroom was completed by summer 2011 in per meal. this friendly homestay. Free WiFi Internet is avail- able, and there is a computer available for use. • Chinese Restaurant. Newly opened place in 2014 To get there from the main bus station (Kutaisi II with true Chinese cuisine. Owners are obviously Railway Station), take a #1 city bus traveling to the Chinese. Offer huge variety of national dishes. It’s right (from McD walk right the same side of street a bit pricey, however tea comes for free. It’s a big to find the bus stop). The bus pass the Kutaisi I sta- surprise to find it in Kutaisi. 10-30 GEL. tion and go uphill to 26 Maisi Street. Get off at #72 (there is a cross on sidewalk) and you walk into the • Tea -House Foe-Foe (Foe-Foe), Rustaveli str 5 alley, which is Tbilisi St. 3rd Lane. From Kutaisi I (near the Kutaisi Opera Building), ☎ 577577533, station, take #1 bus or walk out to the right uphill on e-mail: [email protected]. 10:00-00:00. Solomon Pirveli St. for th 6-7 min up the hill to Tbil- Adress :Rustaveli str 5, nearby Opera . Middle isi St. Taxis from the bus station is 5 GEL, but they Check-10gel Open :10:00 Close:00:00 Plastic Card tend to take you to similarly named guesthouse to :Accepted Wi-Fi:Free Menu:Georgian and Medi- get commission. Give them the street address rather terian(main Courses ,Soups,Salads,Sweets) 5.00- than ask for “Suliko’s.” 30 GEL per night including 10.00 gel. (updated May 2015) breakfast and supper.

• Gelati Guest House (საოჯახო სასტუმრო 15.8 Drink „გელათი“), 26 May Street, (Vtoraya Liniya 4), Second Turn., ☎ +995 597 986222. 5 rooms / 12 15.9 Sleep people. inc. breakfast 35 GEL. (2013?). • Guesthouse Zelimkhani, ☎ +995 431 222441. 14 15.9.1 Budget comfortable rooms for 28 people. 50 GEL per night inc. breakfast. • Hostel Kutaisi, 14 Solomon I (Solomon Pirveli St) Street (next to main square in the historical part of • Guesthouse Beka, 26 Debi Ishkhnelebi Street, ☎ the city), ☎ +995 431 253873, +995 551 471100 +995 431 246923. 16 comfortable rooms for 30 (mobile), e-mail: [email protected]. In the hos- people. 40 GEL incl. breakfast. tel Kutaisi you will be served by experienced peo- • Guesthouse Gora, 22 Debi Ishkhnelebi Street, ☎ ple (English spoken). Amenities include free Wi- +995 431 252170, +995 599 574625. 43 comfort- Fi, internet, linen, towels, shampoo, coffee, tea, ca- able rooms for 100 people. 40 GEL incl. breakfast. ble TV, maps, different guide books, advice about Kutaisi and Georgia in general. 20 to 30 GEL per • Hostel Bavaria, 108 Tbilisi street, ☎ +995 598 night. 36 26 36, e-mail: [email protected]. Meet the small family that runs the hostel. Spacious and quiet • Suliko’s Homestay, Tbilisi Street 3rd Lane #6 (#6 house. Residential area near a park and a shop. Ac- on the alley running between #83 Tbilisi St. and cessible on foot from the main square. Minibus 34 #72 26 May St.(26 Maisi St.) ) From the main city passes close to the hostel. 15 GEL. (updated Jul square (fountain), Tbilisi street runs towards south- 2015) east. Walk uphill until 81 Tbilisi St. and turn left, you see a house with green metal gate at No. 6 of the alley.), ☎ +995 431 243007. Run by a retired cou- 15.9.2 Mid-range ple, a large room of their house serves as a dorm, • Hotel Kolkha, Axalgazrdoba Avenue 38, ☎ +995 two smaller private rooms are available. Theoret- 597 731056. ically one may stay to sleep only, alas one is very likely to be treated to the excellent fare the lady of the house serves up as well as the homemade wine • Hotel Oazis, Mari Brosse St. (behind the large the husband produces. I.e. if they like you, you are round theatre in the city centre). Small hotel in the likely to be treated to one of those infamous Geor- center. Clean, cozy rooms with narrow beds; wifi, gian welcomes, heavy on your liver ... They will give A/C, heating. One of the few budget options in cen- you as much chacha, Georgian wine and Georgian tral Kutaisi. food as you can handle. The food is all hand-made and freshly prepared. It is amazing, the hospitality • Hotel Tirifiholiday (tirifebi), Zviad Gamsakhur- is unparalleled and only the modesty of the facilities dia Str.45 (Between McDonalds and Patrol police), 68 CHAPTER 15. KUTAISI

☎ +995 592 961515, e-mail: [email protected]. • Mestia — the “capital” of Svaneti and a UNESCO 31 air-conditioned guestrooms with separate bath- World Heritage site rooms. Room service 24h. Complimentary full • breakfast in the breakfast area. Multilingual staff, Oni — a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni River laundry facilities, free car parking, free wireless In- up in the mountains that was for millennia a center ternet access in all areas of the hotel. 20 gel - 120 of Georgian Jewish culture. Today it is becoming gel. a major tourist destination for domestic travelers as well as attracting adventurous foreign travelers at- • Hotel Rcheuli Palace, 21b Gr. Khandzteli St, ☎ tracted to its natural beauty, remote setting and a +995 431 292900. 28 comfortable rooms / 50 peo- local culture that has not seen the effects of tourism ple. 115 GEL inc. breakfast. yet • Tbilisi — the beautiful and interesting capital, Geor- • Hotel Imperiali (სასტუმრო „იმპერიალი“), 28 gia’s largest and most cosmopolitan city Mchedlidze St, ☎ +995 579 191939. 9 comfortable rooms / 18 people. 100 GEL. • Zugdidi — not very popular city with tourists for itself, however many of them pass through it on their • Hotel Aieti’s Sasakhle (ასტუმრო „აიეტის way up to Mestia in Svaneti სასახლე“. Aeetes Palace), 34 G. Tabidze St., ☎ +995 431 253533. 13 rooms / 26 people 100 GEL.

• Hotel Dzveli Kalaki, 3/4 Ioseb Grishashvili St., ☎ +995 431 251451, +995 599 51 60 56. 10 rooms for 24 people. 100 GEL incl. breakfast. • Hotel Bagrati, 2a Tsereteli St, ☎ +995 431 25 55 55. 16 comfortable rooms with a maximum capacity of 32 people. 140 GEL incl. breakfast.

15.9.3 Splurge

15.10 Connect

The tourist office kiosk between the two main bridges is staffed during the summer season only. Rest of the year it is located in the annex building left to the city hall at the ground floor. (It is a bit hard to find since the mayor don't want to have signs to it. Ask in the city hall if you cannot find it.) Dingy post office on Tamar Mepe St. Previously existing Internet cafés have closed due to numerous freely avail- able hotspots.

15.11 Go next

• Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park (for details see Borjomi) — the largest national park in Georgia. The diversity of physical, geographical and espe- cially climatical conditions of its has shaped the wealth and variety of its flora and fauna. Apart from the largely untouched nature of Borjom-Kharagauli, there are numerous cultural monuments. In partic- ular, there are two easily accessible churches, built in 9th century. At present eight tourist trails are of- ficially operating in the national park. They vary in length, duration and complexity. Open from Apr until October Chapter 16

Oni

Oni is a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni River up 16.5 Eat in the mountains that was for millennia a center of Geor- gian Jewish culture. Today it is becoming a major tourist Most visitors will want to have their meals at the guest- destination for domestic travelers as well as attracting ad- house they are staying at, since there is a very limited venturous foreign travelers attracted to its natural beauty, choice of restaurants in the summer, and none are open remote setting and a local culture that has not seen the in the winter. effects of tourism yet. The town is about 3 km long, be- tween the left bank of the Rioni River and hills to the East. 16.6 Drink

16.7 Sleep 16.1 Get in There are several nice guesthouse options in town and one 16.2 Get around new hotel.

• Berishvili Homestay, 7 Baratashvili Street, ☎ +995 The town is easily handled on foot, to travel further into 599 15 76 38. Homestay with a garden and in a quiet the mountains hire a car at the station where you were location. Russian, and some English and German dropped off by the Marshutka, or make arrangements spoken. 30 to 40 GEL per night (bed & breakfast, through your guesthouse. half-board).

• Family Guesthouse and Gallery - A beautiful 16.3 See house with hand made balconies that has been fur- nished and decorated by the owners who run the lo- cal art and woodworking school. The owners speak • Synagogue - Although the Jewish population has Georgian and Russian and their teenage son speaks migrated away there is a beautiful synagogue in the excellent English and is able to act as a guide for lo- center of town. cal hikes.

• Museum - The local museum has many artifacts 16.8 Go next that would be much more famous if they were in a more well known museum. There are stone tools from the earliest settlers, bronze tools, early Iron artifacts and artwork from contemporary artists, as well as much more. Admission is 2 Lari

16.4 Do

The most popular activity for visitors is hiking or climbing in the mountains and there are many trails for this.

69 Chapter 17

Samtskhe-Javakheti

Samtskhe-Javakheti is a region of Georgia, which bor- ders Northern Armenia to the south.

17.1 Cities and Towns

• Abastumani — both a former Czarist spa town and a Soviet built astrophysical observatory, the western gateway to the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park • Akhaltsikhe — the capital and largest city with a nice weekend bazaar and a good base for exploring nearby Sapara Monastery and Vardzia • — a small Armenian city (the largest in the region) and the center of Javakheti • Atskuri — a small town with three castles and the central entrance to the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park • Borjomi — famous for its Borjomi mineral water, national park, and summer palace of the Romanov Dynasty, the eastern entrance to the Borjomi- Kharagauli National Park • Bakuriani — a popular winter ski resort The Vardzia cave monastery • Ninotsminda — a large Armenian town • Vanis Kvabebi — another cave monastery, less fre- quently visited, near Vardzia

17.2 Other destinations • Vardzia — a 12th century cave monastery and city carved out of a cliff overlooking a river gorge • Khertvisi Castle — A stone fortress dating back to the 2nd century BCE, although it has been rebuilt many times, is spectacularly situated on a rocky out- 17.3 Understand cropping overlooking the Mtkvari gorge on the way to Vardzia from Akhaltsikhe. Amazingly, the site is completely abandoned and you may roam about the Samtskhe-Javakheti was traditionally known as fortress at your own risk and delight. , for its Meskhi Georgian tribes. The re- gion is especially dry and mountainous south of Borjomi • Sapara Monastery — one of Georgia’s truly magical (which is still as green and wet as anywhere in Imereti). monasteries, 11th century Sapara is hidden in the Javakheti, the southeastern portion of the region around forested mountains above Akhaltsikhe, at the end of Akhalkalaki, sees a bit of political ferment, since the vast a slow, bumpy dirt road, and as such has avoided majority of its residents are ethnically Armenian and the perils of invading armies throughout its entire demand greater autonomy and language rights. Unlike history in Abkhazia and South Ossetia, however, the political

70 17.12. GO NEXT 71

situation here does not translate into any danger for a falling off various cultural monuments—there are no visitor; it is rather just an extra reason why Javakheti is guard rails to speak of. But common sense and a natu- an interesting destination. ral fear of heights should keep you safe. Visitors should make Vardzia their number one travel pri- ority (and stop along the way at Khertvisi Castle). but those with some extra time to explore would be foolish 17.12 Go next not to haul themselves up the bumpy mountain road to see the treasure that is Sapara Monastery. Borjomi is an- • Georgia’s secondary road link with Turkey passes other great destination, but is far easier to visit than the through Akhaltsikhe, and it is fairly easy to catch a rest of the regional attractions, as it is located very close marshrutka or hire a taxi going to the Vale-Posof to the main highway going between Tbilisi and Kutaisi. border crossing from Akhaltsikhe’s bus station. • There is also a seldom-traveled road heading south from Akhalkalaki through Ninotsminda towards 17.4 Talk Gyumri, in Northern Armenia. Foreigners travel- ing this route will give the bored customs officials a In the southeast of the region around Akhalkalaki, big surprise. Armenian is widely spoken, even more so than Georgian. But in the rest of the region, Georgian language speakers predominate. Russian is also widely spoken, especially by older generations.

17.5 Get in

17.6 Get around

Marshrutkas are generally the way to go when traveling south of Akhaltsikhe, as they seem to handle the bumpy dirt roads better than the Soviet built taxis (do not, how- ever, underestimate the rock-crawling capabilities of a , seriously!).

17.7 See

17.7.1 Itineraries

17.8 Do

17.9 Eat

If you are looking to sample some , Akhalkalaki is home to some authentic-as-it-gets cheap Armenian cafes.

17.10 Drink

17.11 Stay safe

Samtskhe-Javakheti is a quite safe region of Georgia. Probably the biggest danger to a visitor is the risk of Chapter 18

Abastumani

Abastumani is a small Czarist era spa town and Soviet fenced off, without any windows and is slowly deterio- built astrophysical observatory in the Samtskhe-Javakheti rating. Several years ago one building caught fire and is region. currently being rebuilt and the main house was sold to private owners who have altered the original appearance beyond recognition. 18.1 Understand

Relatively undiscovered by foreign tourists Abastumani 18.5 Do was once a thriving spa and resort town during the last part of the Russian Czars. Today it sits quiet for most of • Forest Walk. Walk in the dark forest surrounding the year waiting for the summer rush of Georgian tourists the observatory and look for animals such as bear who come to breathe it’s clean air and walk in the pristine and wolves. forests. • Astrophysical Observatory. Visit the astrophys- ical observatory and look at the stars and moon 18.2 Get in through the old telescopes. The moon is best seen when it is half because you can see the shadows of Abastumani is reached by either taxi or marshutka(mini- the craters better. bus) from the Akhaltsikhe bus station. The drive takes approximately 30 minutes in a taxi or around 50 minutes • Hiking. Hike the Abastumani loop trail in the in the marshutka depending on how many stops it makes. Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park.

• Czar’s Bath. Visit the Czar’s Bath at night and get 18.3 Get around the caretaker to let you soak in the therapeutic spring water with friends and some local wine. The lower town is 7km from one end to the other and relatively flat so it is easily walkable. The observatory is • Mountain Biking. Rent mountain bikes from the 4km above the town. To reach it you can either take a Abastumani Tourism Association and ride down the cable car which has a sporadic schedule, or walk one hour mountain from observatory to the town. up a trail or a little longer by road. • Cable Car. Ride up (or down) the Soviet era cable car from the town to the observatory and get a bird’s 18.4 See eye view of the surrounding region.

There are many wooden, mostly abandoned, Czarist era • Local Homestay. Stay with a local family and eat buildings to view and photograph. Visit the Czar’s Bath the traditional Georgian food and hospitality. that is now under renovation but the guard will proba- bly let you look around. Ride up the cable car and walk • around the surreal and seemingly abandoned astrophys- Horseback Riding. - Rent horses and have a guided ical observatory complex. The Romanov palace com- ride in the forest. plex was probably once a great site but it barely warrants the walk out of town to visit them. Of the three origi- • Tamara’s Castle. - Explore the ruins of Tamara’s nal buildings only one remains in its former state and lies Castle sitting on the ridge high above the town.

72 18.11. GO NEXT 73

18.6 Buy

There is a small bazaar on Wednesday, Friday, and Sun- day from 8-12:30 where you can buy local products such as fresh cheese, milk, vegetable, wine, and honey.

18.7 Eat

18.8 Drink

18.9 Sleep

18.10 Connect

18.11 Go next Chapter 19

Akhaltsikhe

The mosque inside Akhaltsikhe Castle, Old City

Akhaltsikhe (Georgian: ახალციხე, “New Fortress”) is a small city of about 50,000 and the capital of Samtskhe- Javakheti. The city has been around for at least 800 years, and was a regional administrative center for the Ottomans from the sixteenth century up to the Russo-Turkish War. Until the twentieth century Akhaltsikhe was majority Ar- menian, but today, unlike most of the province, it is ma- Sapara Monastery’s cupola jority Georgian. It’s a rather sleepy town, but its Old City is worth a visit, and it’s a great base for exploring the surrounding areas, including Sapara Monastery and you want to avoid finding another marshrutka upon ar- Khertvisi Fortress in the immediate vicinity. rival in Khashuri. But it’s not terribly difficult to catch a marshrutka going between Akhaltsikhe and Khashuri before dinner time. 19.1 Get in There are two marshrutkas to Yerevan, Armenia at 4:00 and 7:00 (35 GEL). If you miss them, go to Akhalkalaki, 19.1.1 By train from where marshrutkas leave to Yerevan almost every hour. Akhaltsikhe is connected to the main Batumi–Tbilisi– From Borjomi 3GEL. Baku railroad by a spur through Borjomi ending in Akhaltsikhe itself. This connection, however, has been suspended since May 2013. 19.1.3 By car 19.1.2 By marshrutka The principal route to Akhaltsikhe runs from Georgia’s Marshrutkas run to Akhaltsikhe’s main market/bus sta- main East-West highway (E60) at the spur in Khashuri tion from Tbilisi's Didube market, as well as from the bus leading to Borjomi. stations in Kutaisi and Khashuri. Coming from Kutaisi or There’s also a route from Batumi via Gorzerdzi pass Tbilisi, it’s best to catch your ride early in the morning if (4WD needed, closed in winter, scenic views).

74 19.4. DO 75

19.2 Get around

19.3 See

The walls of Khertvisi Fortress

was reputedly destroyed by Alexander the Great. The “modern” fortress, however, was built around Sapara Monastery, hidden in the mountain forests the thirteenth-fourteenth centuries, and saw fighting during the Ottoman invasion (and subsequent occu- pation) in the sixteenth century. The walls on the far side drop down a sheer cliff to the Mtkvari far be- 19.3.1 Old city low, so if you fancy a bout of vertigo, pull yourself up and look straight down. • Akhaltsikhe Castle

• St. Marine’s Church

19.3.2 Surroundings 19.4 Do

• Sapara Monastery (საფარის მონასტერი) is about 10-12 km outside of Akhaltsikhe up into the 19.5 Buy mountains. The monastery was established in the tenth century, but the principal church, St. Sabas, was built sometime in the thirteenth century. Un- 19.6 Eat til the twentieth century, the monastery had been perfectly preserved, as its hidden location saved it from Ottoman discovery throughout the empire’s 19.7 Drink three-century long control of southwestern Geor- gia. Alas, the Soviets found it, and abused it in the usual soulless fashion, albeit not to the same extent as many other Georgian Orthodox establishments— the frescoed walls were not whitewashed, and re- main in good condition (especially following a re- cent restoration). During a visit, make sure to climb up the nearby slopes towards a rocky outcropping to get lovely views over the monastery and the valleys in the distance. Also make sure not to use flash photog- raphy in the churches, unless you want to see some seriously angry monks. If you can make yourself understood, you can overnight in the monastery’s chambers.

• Khertvisi Fortress (ხერთვისის ციხე) looms over the village of Khertvisi. The outcrop was used View of Khertvisi from the fortress as a fortress from the second century B.C., and 76 CHAPTER 19. AKHALTSIKHE

19.8 Sleep

• Shin Hotel, 2 David and Konstantine St. (at As- pindza Street), ☎ +995 365 22 12 30. It is a good 15 minutes walk from the train/bus station on the other side of central. Decent rooms with restaurant at- tached. 60 to 80 GEL Double/Twin. 20GEL Dorm bed.

19.9 Connect

19.10 Go next

• Vardzia — the cliffside cave monastery, former city, and UNESCO World Heritage site is the biggest rea- son to visit Akhaltsikhe, and the region more gener- ally. A round trip by taxi from Akhaltsikhe might cost about 60 lari.

• Safara — a monastery on a lovely, lush hillside about 12 kilometres along an untarmacked road. Very worth visiting. A round trip by taxi from Akhalt- sikhe might cost 15-25 lari.

• Akhalkalaki — the center of Armenian culture in Georgia is nearby to the southwest, easily accessible via marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe • Borjomi — every Soviet traveler’s favorite Georgian retreat, for its parks, Romanov palace, and interna- tionally renowned natural mineral water

• Turkey — You can buy bus tickets to Turkey from the central bus station. Ticket to Posof (city on the Turkish side) is $10 and leaves at 14:30. If you are going to Kars/ and have a tight budget, hitching to Kars is a very easy and quick option and can be done in far less than a day. If you leave in the morn- ing, hitching to the Turkish border or to Posof can be quicker than the bus. From the central bus sta- tion, ask for the road to the Turkish border (Turet- skoĭ granitsy) and start flagging cars about a kilome- ter from the bus station down the road. The road will pass through the small town of Vale (note: although Vale does not appear to be on the route to Turkey on the Georgian tourist maps found at the tourist infor- mation centers, it is indeed on the way). You will be able to walk across the border. Chapter 20

Borjomi

8:30, 9:30 ... etc to 18:30 (0.8GEL), Kvabiskhevi 12:00 and 14:00 (1GEL), Chobiskevi 8:30, 11:00, 14:00, 17:00 (1GEL), Dviri 10:20, 11:45, 14:30 (1GEL), Tadzrisi 12:00 (bus, 1.50GEL) and 17:00 (minibus, 2GEL), Timotesubani 10:30, 13:30, 17:00 (1.5GEL). Trains leave from two different train stations. From sta- tion nr 1., in the center of town, trains leave to Tbilisi at 7:00 and 16:40 (2GEL). From Tbilisi, trains to Borjomi leave at 6:40 and 16:40, the journey takes between 4 and 5 hours. The slow train to Bakuriani leaves at 7:15 and 10:55 from railway station nr 2, a bit outside of town. In the morning, you could catch the train to Tbilisi at 7 and then change at the next stop, which is station nr 2 - other- wise a taxi is 3GEL. The train to Bakuriani takes 3 hours, so if you make a day trip it’s quicker to take the bus back to Borjomi, or you could take the train back at 10:00 and 14:15.

20.2 Get around

Borjomi is small enough to walk everywhere. The tourist information is staffed by Artur who is super helpful, Borjomi from the cable car speaks fluent English and will give you a map of town and an overview of places to go. He can also arrange a guest house from you, and will organize for the host to Borjomi (ბორჯომი bohr-joh-mee) is a town in central pick you up at the tourist office. Georgia as well as the name of a natural reserve and of the famous volcanic salty spring water. The source of this spring water lies in the Borjomi gorge. 20.3 See

20.1 Get in • The Borjomi Museum of Local Lore is located at Tsminda Nino 5. Admission 3 GEL, tour in English or Hebrew 15 GEL. Opening hours 10am-7pm Jun- Busses leave hourly to Tbilisi from 7:00-14:00 and at Sep, to 5pm Oct-May. 14:45, 15:30, 16:00, 16:45, 17:15, 17:50 (8GEL). Busses leave to Akhaltsikhe at 8:45 and 14:45 (4GEL), Batumi at 9:00 (17GEL), Poti at 6:45 (15GEL), Khashuri ev- ery half hour between 9:30 and 18:30 (2GEL), Gori 7:30 20.4 Do and 10:45 (5GEL), Bakuriani 9:00, 10:30, 12:15, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00 (3GEL), Andeziti 16:00 (3.50GEL), • City park. Stretched along the Borjomula river, Tsikhisjvari 14:00 and 17:00 (3.50GEL), Tsemi 10:30, city park contains the source of the Borjomi min- 14:30, 17:00 every day except Sunday (1GEL), Sakire eral water. First part of park contains park amuse- 12:00, 15:00, 17:00 (2GEL), Chitakhevi hourly from ments and cafes. Distant part of the park is great for

77 78 CHAPTER 20. BORJOMI

a walk, about 2km to a natural pool that’s popular • Taverna: Restaurant near the entrance of the main with locals for a picnic. Near the entrance there is bridge (Silamazis Khidi) and the small park (patara an option to use cable car to get up to plateau, where parki), Taverna has a wide selection of traditional there’s a ferris wheel. Georgian dishes. Taverna enjoys a reputation for its mushrooms cooked in clayware. 20.4.1 Borjomi Kharagauli national park • Inka Cafe: some Western-style dishes and pastries. • 1+2 bar: by the entrance of the mineral water park, • (W 10 km of the city). with nice wines and slow service.

Hike in this largest national park in Georgia. It covers about 8% of the total territory of Georgia. The diver- 20.7 Drink sity of physical, geographical and especially climatical conditions of its has shaped the wealth and variety of its flora and fauna. Apart from the largely untouched na- 20.8 Sleep ture of Borjom-Kharagauli, there are numerous cultural monuments. In particular, there are two easily accessi- • Hotel Borjomis Kheoba. 28 comfortable rooms, ble churches, built in 9th century. At present eight tourist mineral water spas, outdoor swimming pool, bar and trails are officially operating in the national park. They restaurant. Prices from 65 to 250 Georgian lari in- vary in length, duration and complexity. Open from Apr cluding all meals. until October Plan your trip by going to the administration of the of- • Borjomi Hostel - NOT RECCOMMENDED. fice, which is a bit to the west of Borjomi (23 Meskheti This place has a nice sign out the front and loca- str.), and get a free access permission and a map of the tion. However as of March 2016 the dorm has no area with all the routes and shelters as well. There are electricty. If you don't mind spending the night in a well-marked hikes of 1, 2 or 3 days, through forests and pitch black room with no heating or electricity, the meadows. rate is 15GEL a night. If you want to take a hike in the national park, get enough • Hotel Meidani - Very nice clean rooms with good supplies, water, and some basic sleeping gear with you, heating, a nice on-suite with a hot shower, comfort- as the cabins are very basic. You can rent sleeping bags able twin/double beds, tv, and wifi. Excellent loca- for 5GEL a day, but no mattresses, and the shelter beds tion in the middle of Borjomi. 40GEL a night (Mar are wooden planks. You pay a small fee for staying in the 2016). shelter (10GEL) or camping (5GEL). The permit to the park is free, but make sure to have it on you since rangers • Marina’s Guesthouse: Cozy guesthouse near the might ask for it. It is also to take a one day hike from center of town and a popular way station for expats, Borjomi to Qvabiskhevi (or the other way around) and backpackers and tourists. Marina’s son and daughter then hitchhike or take a local bus or taxi back to Borjomi. both speak fluent English. It is also possible to take multiple day hikes. That way you • get to go to the higher parts (up to 2600 meters). Hotel Borjomi. Elegant, wooden Tsarist-era house located in central Borjomi, next to the Museum of Local Lore. available. Prices start from 70 Georgian lari. English and Russian spoken. 20.5 Buy • Leo’s Homestay, 18 Pirosmani (turn right onto Near the entry to the city park, locals sell home-made jam the street after the Borjomi museum of local lore - from pine tree cones. It is claimed that the jam is useful the home is on the left side of the street.), ☎ +995 when curing upper respiratory tract infections and is good 574861516, +995 593981595, +995 551414422, e- for improving immunity. mail: [email protected]. Leo and his mother have 2 rooms that can accommodate 7-8 or so peo- ple. The price for the night is 20 GEL a person, and for 5 GEL more Leo’s mother will make break- 20.6 Eat fast, which often features a substantial number of . Leo is also a great source of information • Old Borjomi: excellent quality food, nice inte- about Borjomi and the surrounding area, and regu- rior, wifi. They make perhaps the best khachapuri larly arranges for his guests, such as trips in Georgia. According to the tourist information to Vardzia and horseback riding in the Borjomi- their chicken in garlic sauce (Chkmeruli) has turned Kharagauli national park. He also speaks excellent many away from vegetarianism. English. 20.9. GO NEXT 79

• Hillside Guesthouse, gogia,s tsikhe 4 (turn right overview. Note that the prices can be different while onto the street after the Borjomi museum than strait the departure times are quite stable even for years and you can see borjomi tv station and than you (according to the Marshrutka drivers). can see hillside guesthouse sine), ☎ +995568737361, e-mail: [email protected]. Hillside Guest House, • The sightseeing train to Bakuriani ski resort (1 or Gogias Tsikhe St 4 (The house is located 5 min- 2 gel, 38 km) which leaves from railway station #2 utes up the hill from the center), ☎ +995568737361, is nice for sightseeing and takes 2 hours. It leaves [5]. Excellent central location only approx. 400 Borjomi for Bakuriani every day at 7:15 and 10:55. m from the bus station (Direction towards the Mu- Trains in the opposite direction leave Bakuriani at seum). Still very quiet, due to location at the end of 10:00 and 14:15. a dead end street. Sitting in front of the guesthouse can be very relaxing, especially when Nick’s two cats are around. Nick and his mother are very friendly, helpful and socialising. Nick speaks English quite well. The local breakfast prepared by Nick’s mother was always very yummy and filling. Also it was easy to get in contact with other travellers here, which added to the traveller friendly atmosphere. WiFi worked very well and washing service can be pro- vided. A good viewpoint for the city near the Gogia Fortress is situated only a 15 minutes hike behind the guesthouse. Everything in town can be reached on foot. Many side trips by public transport can be done from Borjomi. 20 Gel and up. 20. (updated Nov 2015)

20.9 Go next

Bus and train timetable for Borjomi as of March 2015

• The tourist information offers a 30GEL day trip to Vardzia, stopping at the Green Monastery, Akhaltsikhe fortress with a very nice museum (7GEL), and a natural sulphur spring where you can bathe in 45deg water.

• There are several bus connections to other places in Georgia. The timetable in the image gives an Chapter 21

Vardzia

Vardzia is a cave monastery site in Georgia, on the slopes 21.6 Eat of the Erusheti Mountain. The first cave dwellings were created in the second half of the 12 century during the There is a cafe opposite the ticket office which operates reign of Giorgi III. The site is now a part of the Vardzia only in peak season. Historical–Architectural Museum-Reserve. Vardzia was seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1283, but soon partially rebuilt. 21.7 Drink

21.1 Get in 21.8 Sleep

Most people do an organized tour from Akhaltsikhe or There are a number of guesthouses around the Vardzia Borjomi. area. By public transport; from Akhaltsikhe there are three Staff and people hanging around the Vardzia ticket office marshrutkas/buses a day. Vardzia to Akhaltsikhe bus will likely offer you a guesthouse if you so need one. times are: 9am, 1pm, and 3pm. One such is Gocha Guesthouse, run by Gocha who checks Admission to Vardzia is 3GEL. your tickets on entry. His guesthouse is in the nearby vil- lage of Nakalakevi. He will take you to and from the guesthouse according to his work hours. Comfortable 21.2 Get around beds, wifi, and homecooked meals. He charges 20 Lari a night for a bed, 10 Lari for dinner, 10 for breakfast, and 5 if you try either his homemade wine of vodka. He may Vardzia itself is only walkable. offer to take you to the Madame [] Monastery and Vanis Kvabebi, another cave monastery, is less than an will charge you 10 Lari for his troubles. He speaks little hours walk away. English but enough to get by.

21.3 See 21.9 Go next

• Vanis Kvabebi is another cave monastery nearby. • Church of the Dormition. A late 12th cen- tury church decorated by elaborate mural paintings. Among them are the portraits of Giorgi III and of queen Tamar, his daughter and successor, during whose reign the paintings were created. Other paint- ing include scenes from the New Testament and im- ages of saints.

21.4 Do

21.5 Buy

80 Chapter 22

Southwestern Georgia

If you are looking for the region of the US state, • Ureki — beach resort see Southwest Georgia. • Sarpi — coastal village in Ajara, right next to the border gate with Turkey Southwestern Georgia is a region along Georgia’s Black Sea coast, which borders Turkey to the south. Southwest- • Shemokmedi with 6th century Monastery ern Georgia consists of two regions: Ajara and Guria. • Shukhuti The venue for the annual Leloburti (a The region includes a variety of localities, from historic rugby match between the neighboring villages of towns and cities, through ports, industrial areas, beach Kvemo and Zemo Shukhuti), always on the Ortho- resorts and natural reserves. It therefore offers a varied dox Easter Sunday mixture of opportunities to the travelers, as you can engage both in traditional beach activities and do a • Tsikhisdziri,village with 3,000 years old Petra fair share of inspiring sightseeing. Fortress

22.1 Cities 22.2 Other destinations

• Batumi — the capital of Ajara and Georgia’s third • Ajara largest city is a pleasant Black Sea port with great • Ajaruli cuisine Kintrishi Natioanal Park • national Reserve • — small town in Ajara, beach resort • • Chokhatauri — small town in Guria, district center • Machakhela National Park • Grigoleti — beach resort • Guria • Keda — district center • Bakhmaro — mountain resort • Khulo — a town in Ajara’s highland, district center • Gomismta — mountain resort • and Paliastomi lake • Kobuleti — a small town, beach resort • Surebi • Lanchkhuti — small town, district center • Zoti • Likhauri with medieval fortress and 15th century Church 22.3 Understand • Mtispiri with medieval Askana Fortress

• Nabeghlavi — the source of mineral water of the Southwestern Georgia consists of two regions: same name • Ajara — a 30% Muslim autonomous region of • Nasakirali balneotherapeutic health resort with min- Georgia with beaches, palm trees, and wonderfully eral water fattening food • Ozurgeti — the capital of Guria is a fairly small • Guria — a region famous for its “Gurian Riders,” town; near the Shemokmedi Monastery and the trick horse riders who toured the United States as Likhauri Church part of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show

81 82 CHAPTER 22. SOUTHWESTERN GEORGIA

The climate of Southwestern Georgia ranges from sub- from Istanbul, as well as easy mini bus (marshrutka). tropical to high alpine, and is one of Georgia’s greenest Marshrutkas head to Btumi and Ozurgeti from the bus and wettest regions. stations in Tbilisi and Kutaisi. Batumi is the easiest des- tination to get to, and is widely served by public transport. 22.4 Talk 22.5.4 By car Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the re- Batumi, Kobuleti and Ureki lies on the well-developed gion. Turkish is also fairly prevalent in Batumi. Much international road which links Turkey to Georgia. Other of the older generation speak Russian and the younger cities lies on national roads which are paved with con- generation is increasingly speaking English due to hostil- crete. Roads are beautiful and ideal for a scenic drive. ity towards Russia, and also because English is taught in schools since independence and has replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, as they are more likely 22.6 Get around to know some English. Buses and Mini buses (Marschrutkas) go in the surround- ing area. Cycling in easy in Batumi. Marshrutkas are 22.5 Get in generally the way to go when traveling outside of Batumi or Kobuleti. 22.5.1 By plane

Batumi has its international airport. Taxi from airport to 22.7 See the city costs about 10 GEL. Other nearest major interna- tional airports are in Trabzon, Turkey and Kutaisi. There There are many historic monuments, museums, galleries are regular flights from Tbilisi to Batumi international air- and other attractions in the old city of Batumi, which is ports. probably where more tourists will start their visit anyway. Do not miss Roman era Gonio Fortress in the souther 22.5.2 By train part of the city. Head for the beaches of Gonio, Kvariati, Sarpi, Chakvi to experience the black sea and high night life of the resorts, or head to Shekvetili, Ureki or Grigo- leti which also offer a number of more relaxed beaches and curable sands than those close to Batumi.

• See Ozurgeti, historical capital of the region, with Soviet era architecture

• Explore Guria’s historic medieval monasteries, churches and fortresses in villages Likhauri, mTispiri and Shemokmedi.

22.7.1 Parks

• Batumi Botanical Garden Batumi Airport • Kintrishi National Park — east from Kobuleti Batumi, Ureki, Kobuleti and Ozurgeti has a railway sta- tions. These cities are linked to each other and to Tbil- • Kobuleti National Reserve — in Kobuleti isi by the railway. Tickets can be bought at stations and online. • Machakhela National Park

• Mtirala National Park — east from Chakva 22.5.3 By bus • Kolkheti National Park — north from Ureki There are daily coach arrivals and departures in sev- eral directions: Kutaisi, Samtredia, Poti and Tbilisi, also • Eristavi Palace and Park — near Chokhatauri 22.12. STAY SAFE 83

22.8 Do 22.12 Stay safe

• Ski in Goderdzi Pass, Mountainous resorts of Ajara. Guria and Ajara are quite safe regions of Georgia. Take common precautions, especially during nighttime. Also • Trekking and Hiking in other mountain resorts: avoid dark streets. Bakhmaro, Gomismta or Beshumi • Batumi offers great biking opportunities 22.13 Go next • Visit Guria Park — large amusement center be- tween Ureki and Kobuleti International road links Georgia trough Batumi with Turkey and it is fairly easy to catch a marshrutka or hire a taxi going to the Sarpi border, or travel to Trabzon 22.9 Eat or Istanbul from Batumi by bus. North of the region is Samegrelo and east of the region is Samtskhe-Javakheti. They can be reached by the well developed local roads.

“Adjaruli Khachapuri”

The food differs slightly in Gurian and Ajara. You should try Khakhapuri in Ajarian style. You also need to make sure you experience the fresh fish and other seafood, which is served at restaurants in Batumi and Ureki, as well as in villages of Guria and Ajara you can try river fish. Try “Bachlava” for dessert.

22.10 Drink

You will fins some wineries in Keda (Ajara) and Bukist- sikhe (Guria) and a lot of pubs and bars in coastal resorts: Batumi, Kobuleti and Ureki during summer season. The most famous local wine is “Chkhaveri”.

22.11 Sleep

There is wide range of hotels, hostels and guesthouses in Batumi, Kobuleti and Ureki, included splurge inter- national brands such as Hilton, Radisson, and Sheraton hotels in Batumi. There are seven resorts in the region, of which Ureki, Shekvetili and Grigoleti are located on the Black Sea; Bakhmaro, Gomi Mountain, Balneological Nabeghlavi and Nasakirali—in the mountainous alpine zone. Chapter 23

Aketi

Aketi (აკეთი) is a village in Georgia, in Guria region. Aketi is located 12km south from Lanchkhuti and 20km northeast from Ozurgeti.

23.1 Understand

It is known for its old churches and pottery producing. Aketi used to be one of the few center in Georgia of mak- ing wine pitchers.

23.2 Get in Our Saviors church

23.2.1 By bus 23.5 Do

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Lanchkhuti. • Climb a cave in the village Gaguri. The cave was used to keep local treasure from enemies.

23.2.2 By car • Fishing in the small rivers • Swimming near Waterfall on the river Atsaura Aketi lies on the road, which cnnects Guria's two towns: Ozurgeti and Lanchkhuti. The Road is narrow, but paved • Do some pottery with locals, participate in making with concrete and beautiful and ideal for a scenic drive. pitchers.

23.3 Get around 23.6 Buy

Pottery products, local wine, honey Aketi is easily covered on foot or mountain bike.

23.7 Drink 23.4 See If you get invited to someone’s house, your host may • Our Saviors church. church was built in developed also offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously potent vodka distilled from grapes and local wine.

• Saint George church. church was built in 1899 23.8 Talk • Ruins of Okona Monastery in village Atsana . church was built in 1899 See also: Georgian phrasebook

84 23.9. GO NEXT 85

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- derstand them. The older generation speaks Russian flu- ently, and Armenian as well. The younger generation now studies English. When in need for help, look for younger people; they are more likely to know some English.

23.9 Go next

• Ozurgeti • Lanchkhuti

• Chokhatauri • Nabeghlavi Chapter 24

Bakhmaro

Bakhmaro (ბახმარო) is a health resort in the Guria re- chokhatauri is paved and in good condition. Bakhmaro gion. The resort is popular in summer, it is nationally is difficulty accessible only from November to April. famous for long mountain walks and for the traditional Riding a car lasts from one and a half hours from horse races, which takes place every year on 19 August. Chokhatauri. To reach the resort you have to be careful that the radiator does not begin to cook on the downhill, the brakes are not hot. 24.1 Understand An alternative route of driving is there from Khulo in Ad- jara, but this is not much more than a track and therefore only accessible by jeep.

24.2.3 By hiking

There are several mountain paths going to Bakhmaro from villages of Guria. The best of them are Vakijvari-Bakhmaro,Mtispiri-Bakhmaro and Gomismta- Bakhmaro

24.3 Get around

You can easily walk in and around Bakhmaro. But you View of Bakhmaro can also rent a horse (20 GEL per hour) or quads.

Bakhmaro is located in the basin of the upper reaches of the river Bakhvistskali. Bakhmaro was discovered in 24.4 See early 1890s. The majority of buildings in Bakhmaro are wooden bungalows that are inhabited in summer, espe- Of course, the great mountain panorama is the main at- cially July and August, by travelers. traction of the town and its immediate surroundings.

24.2 Get in • Spring of Beauty (სილამაზის წყარო). Very cold water source. The path starts from Vakijvari Street and goes down in the woods. (updated Aug 2015) 24.2.1 By bus • Lonely Stone (ობოლი ქვა). Very cold water You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Tbilisi, source. The path starts from Vakijvari Street and Ozurgeti or Chokhatauri or minibus going to Bakhmaro goes down in the woods. (updated Aug 2015) during summer season.

24.2.2 By car 24.5 Do

Well developed regional road connects Bakhmaro to • Attend Horse Race (დოღი). August 19 (the day of Chokhatauri. The approximately 50 km road from the Transfiguration of Our Lord) is an important day

86 24.7. EAT 87

Bakhmaro Horse Race Bakhvistskali at Zotikeli in Bakhmaro, where the large traditional horse race will be held. The spectacle attracts several thousand visitors from the region but also from other regions 24.7 Eat too. The beginning of the race is usually about 13 clock. (updated Aug 2015) There is no restaurant. For this you have to go to Chokhatauri or Ozurgeti. But if you are lucky, you may be invited and get offered homemade products: house wine, home-distilled, cheese and honey. Just try.

24.8 Sleep

Most of the accommodation consists of simple wooden cabins (bungalows). The toilets are outside the house, the water comes from a source nearby. They are rented usu- ally only a weekly or seasonal basis. However, there is only one proper hotel in Bakhmaro.

• Hotel Bakhmaro (სასტუმრო ბახმარო). USD 50 per night/person. (updated Aug 2015) Sunrise Hill

• Watch Sunrise (მზის ამოსავალი). from a “Sun- 24.9 Stay healthy rise hill”. You have to at 2AM and reach the highest point of the mountain. (updated Aug 2015) There is some pharmacies and a small Hospital “Mamkoli”. • Zotikeli (ზოტიყელი). Path to an aul Zotikeli from mountain resort Bakhmaro goes in the beau- tiful gorge of river Bakhvistskali. Every 12 August 24.10 Stay connect a horses race is held in Zotikeli. (updated Aug 2015) The reception of the mobile networks is excellent in the • Watch Sunset (ჩასავალი გორა). from a “Sunset resort, there are some dead spots in the mountains. hill” (updated Aug 2015)

24.11 Go next 24.6 Buy • Ozurgeti Apart from a few small mini markets in the resort, there is no shopping. However you can buy some delicious home- • Chokhatauri made milk products and wooden toys from local people. • Khidistavi There is also a market where fruits and vegetables can be bought. • Nabeglavi 88 CHAPTER 24. BAKHMARO

• Mtispiri Chapter 25

Batumi

snows but when it does, the snow melts easily. The aver- age annual temperature of the sea is 16.7 C at the shore.

25.1.2 Language

While the official, and majority language is Georgian, English, Russian, and Turkish, are also commonly spo- ken. Russian is spoken by most older Georgians, while English is spoken by many (though hardly most) younger ones. In addition, because of the large number of Turkish tourists, it’s not uncommon for locals to speak Turkish, or at least simple Turkish phrases.

25.2 Get in

25.2.1 By plane View of Batumi Batumi International Airport (IATA: BUS) is located Batumi is the capital city of the Autonomous Republic 2 km south of the city. of Ajara in the country of Georgia. Its coastal location The following airlines operate service to/from Batumi In- and sub-tropical climate make it a popular city for va- ternational Airport: cationers across the Caucasus. It’s the party capital of the region with a night life to match which increasingly • includes big name international DJs on the beach-front Aerosvit (Kiev-Boryspil) clubs. Expect to party on the beaches with Russians, Ar- • Belavia (Minsk) menians, Azerbaijanis, Iranians, Turks, Dutch, and, of course, Georgians. • Georgian Airways (Donetsk, Kharkiv, Kiev- Boryspil, Moscow-Domodedovo, Odessa, Tbilisi)

• Turkish Airlines (Istanbul-Atatürk) 25.1 Understand

25.1.1 Climate 25.2.2 By bus

Batumi and its vicinity is one of the important tourism Buses and minibuses (marshrutkas) operate regularly and resort zones on the Georgian Black Sea littoral. The between Batumi and Tbilisi. Travel time is 6 hours climate is humid subtropical. The low annual range of and the minibuses are more comfortable than the local temperature, with a mild winter and warm summer is a marshrutkas in the city. The fare is 18 GEL. The scenery characteristic of the city and of the Georgian coast as along the way is breathtaking. well. The average annual temperature is 14.5C. The av- Daily buses also operate between Batumi and Trabzon, erage temperature in January, the coldest month, is 7.1C Turkey, with stops in Rize and the border crossing at and in August, the warmest month, 23.2 C. The annual Sarpi. Make sure you meet all visa requirements before precipitation is 2560 mm. Showers are frequent. It rarely crossing the border into Georgia.

89 90 CHAPTER 25. BATUMI

There are two Marshrutka stations. One has long dis- 25.3 Get around tance minibuses to Kutaisi, Tbilisi, Poti, etc. The other, on Tbilisi Square, has marshutkas to Sarpi (2 GEL, 20 25.3.1 By bicycle minutes).

25.2.3 By car

25.2.4 By train

Georgian Railways operates trains between Batumi and Tbilisi. Night train leaves Tbilisi at 22:55 and arrives in Batumi’s Makhinjauri Station at 7:05 the next morning. Day train #30 leaves Tbilisi at 8:50 and arrives in Ba- tumi at 4PM. First class costs 40 GEL, second class costs 23 GEL, seats cost 13 GEL. In first class, there are two people per cabin, the berths are a little short, narrow and hard but rather comfortable, and linen is provided. Night train #621 returns from Batumi’s Makhinjauri Station to BatumVelo on the beach promenade. Tbilisi at 22:10, arriving around 7am (as of 2014). Since the schedule changes quite often, you can check before An automatic bike sharing scheme, called BatumVelo is hand on the Georgian Railways Web site - you shouldn't available to rent bicycles and ride along the beaches. trust the English version, though: if they do update the website, they will probably update only the version in Georgian. 25.4 See Makhinjauri Station is 5 km north of Batumi, and taxis and buses await incoming passengers. A taxi from Ba- • Black Sea. enjoy the waves and admire the beach tumi’s city center costs 3 to 5 GEL. and the port itself, as well as the Ottoman-era clock Train tickets can be bought at the station or from an of- tower fice in the old town at 5 General Mazniashvili St (between Melashvili and Abashidze). This office is very plain and • Dolphinarium. Tu-Su shows start at 14:00, 17:00, nondescript with no signs in English. The door and win- 21:00. dow frames are green and some metal chairs are visible inside. Hours are 09:00 to 18:00. • Batumi Botanical Garden, (Take minibus 31 Reserve your seats in advance on the weekends, as many across the cablecar station in the direction to the coast Georgians flock to the seaside. on the north. It costs 60cents and finishes at the park- ing of the botanical garden.). 8AM to 9PM. Georgia has a remarkable tradition of (royal) botanical gar- 25.2.5 By boat dens. It is a quiet spot, next to the Black Sea on a high cliff and it both green and cool. Plan on a visit here to take a half day to nearly a full day as it is very Ferries run from Sochi, Russia and from Ilyichevsk, large. 8 GEL. near Odessa, Ukraine ($145, 42 hours, irregular ser- vice). More boats are operated from Poti (5 GEL with marshrutka and take one hour). It’s a kind of Freighter • Medea statue, (in the center of the city). Statue of travel. Probably best to call first to make inquiries, to Medea and the Golden Fleece in the center of the avoid coming back from Poti empty-handed. The book- city, near the Iranian/Azerbaijani joint consulate. ing office is on Kutaisi 34, but the staff only speaks Rus- sian and is not very helpful. 25.4.1 Places of Worship A boat operates between Sochi, Russia to Batumi, Georgia. It is a high speed hydrofoil which operates • Orthodox, Catholic and Armenian churches. three times a week, Wednesdays at 10:30AM, Fridays at 9:30AM, Sundays at 10:30AM In 2010, the cost is 3500 • rubles for adults, 1750 rubles for children. The number Old Mosque. is +7-8622-609-622 or +7-918-409-12-96. Sochi port schedule • Synagogue. 25.6. BUY 91

25.4.2 Museums • Olympic Swimming Pool, Batumi Plaza Hotel, 50 Chavchavadze str. Mo-Fr 07:00-23:00, Sa,Su • Archaeological Museum, 77, Ilia Chavchavadze 09:00-21:00. str., ☎ +995 422 23694, +995 422 24013. Tu-Su 10:00 – 18:00. Georgian and foreign coins, bronze • Boat tour (in front of Panoramic Wheel). Lots of vessels, glassware, ceramic, etc 2 GEL. boats offering boat tours. Yacht can also be char- tered. from 15 GEL. • State Museum of Art, 8, Gorgiladze str. Tu-Su 10:00 – 18:00. Paintings of famous Georgian and • 6 May Park. Nice park with Nurigeli Lake in the foreign artists, sculptures and some samples of dec- middle of it. There is also a zoo corner in the north- orative art. 1 GEL. ern part of it, but some animals (monkeys in partic- ular) are kept in quite a tiny cages, so animal lovers • The Nobel Brothers Batumi Technological Mu- might not enjoy it. seum, 3, Leselidze str, ☎ +995 88 222 7 11 75. Tu- Su 10:00 – 18:00. Exhibits inventions introduced to Batumi at the end of 19th - beginning of 20th 25.5.1 Theatres centuries by Nobel Brothers, Rotschilds and Manta- shev. 2 GEL. • Batumi Drama Theatre, 1 Rustaveli Ave., ☎ +995 422 274280. • Khariton Akhvlediani Museum. Tu-Su 10:00 – 17:00. Houses archaeological materials of XII-IX • Batumi Puppet and youth state Theatre, c.c. B.C 1 GEL. M.Abashidze Ave. 49, ☎ +995 422 276234, +995 422 270593. 25.4.3 Further afield 25.5.2 Events • Remains of Gonio Fortress, village Tsikhisdziti (Catch a bus from Tbilisi Square to Sarpi (1 GEL) • Black Sea Jazz Festival. Annual Jazz festival held and tell the driver you want to get out at Gonio.), ☎ on 24-27 of July. +995 595 352120. Tu-Su 10:00 – 17:00. Located at the sea shore the ruins host stunning views and interesting architecture. 3 GEL. 25.6 Buy

• Castle of Petra, village Tsikhisdziti, ☎ +995 590 Note that as per usual in Georgia, prices are almost al- 880 121. Early medieval complex. ways slightly higher in the supermarkets than in the small family-run shops. This is counter to what most westerners will be used to. The difference is about 5% to 10%. 25.5 Do • Goodwill Supermarket, Chavchavadze Avenue. Walk along the 'Bulvar' and watch the beach. During day- Many goods not available in smaller shops. Many time families and youngsters play, during nighttime it is of the products come from Germany. the favourite place for couples and party-goers. There are a number of restaurants and bars both on the beach and a little inland. The area is generally safe, but watch out for 25.7 Eat pick-pocketing. Western Georgia has plenty of local flavors, but in Ba- • Panoramic Wheel (At the end of the seaside Blv tumi the dish you must try is a special kind of khachapuri and beginning of the port.). Attraction total time : named acharuli khachapuri (Ajarian khachapuri) that re- 7min 3 GEL. sembles a Viking boat, with the cheese all mixed up with an egg in the center. Avoid this one if you have high • Cable car. 09:00 - 02:00. Goes directly to the small cholesterol, but you'll be missing out — it’s absolutely (about 250m height) nearby hill with a nice restau- delicious. rant on top of it. Stunning views, especially at night. 5GEL. • Adjara, Kutaisi street 11 (close to HB restaurant - a german style place (it’s the only blue building in this • Aqua Park, 12, St. (3 km from the area). A wide variety of different kinds of local and city centre), ☎ +995 422 210101. international food (khachapuris, pkhalis, pakhlava 92 CHAPTER 25. BATUMI

etc ..). If you crave for something sweet then their that attracts the cool locals and expat English teach- brownie is something for you. They have free WiFi ers. There are no signs and you might have to ring and a friendly English-speaking staff. the doorbell on nights with live music, but it’s not a private club. Very nice and friendly staff and they • Boulangerie (ბულანჟერი), M. Abashidze Street 11 have the best cha cha I've tasted. The Caesar salad (near the corner of Mazniashvili Street). A French- is also excellent. It’s also a gallery and it has WIFI. style bakery/cafe which looks quite posh but has much lower prices than similar places in Tbilisi. A • Metro Bar, Melashvili st. 11, ☎ +995 8 422 27 30 very nice cappuccino or latte is 3 GEL. There are 42. A nice but small bar that often has live music many cakes, croissants, etc. and attracts the cool locals as well as expat English teachers. • Cafe La Vita Batumi (on Rustaveli Avenue, across the park from the Theater.). • Vinyl Bar, Dumbadze str. (on Europe Square (for- merly Era Square), near the Iranian and Azerbaijani • Cafe Literaturuli, K. Gamsakhurdia St 18 (near consulates), ☎ +995 93331499. Small, Cozy Place Europe Square (formerly Era Square)). This upscale to hang out for Beer, Pizza and Live Music. Great bookstore-cafe has a number of branches in Tbilisi Staff, Great Service. A sweet bar ran by sweet peo- (in Kala, Vake, Vera, and Saburtalo), but the Batumi ple. location is all the more attractive given the relative dearth of good and service-oriented restaurants in Batumi. Coffees, cakes, and basic Georgian sand- 25.9 Learn wiches (plus khachapuri and lobiani) all available, although the menu seems more like a guideline to • R. Shanin Lyceum. a prestigious private school for what might be available on any given day rather than primary and secondary pupils a list of what’s actually in the kitchen.

• Press Cafe, 1 Akhmed Melashvili Street, Batumi • BSU-SRUShota Rustaveli University. (on the coastal road right next to the Ukrainian restaurant), ☎ +995 422 27 52 79. Mon - Sun: • Batumi State Maritime Academy. many young 10:00-01:00. It has fast Wifi (for Batumi) and cheap men and women in midshipman uniforms food and drinks, but beware at some point you will be kicked out suddenly for a school group! • Batumi International University (across the road • Privet iz Batumi, 39 Abashidze (near Europe from Marina Complex.). Square (formerly Era Square)). This charming “colonial Russia” theme cafe is a Batumi institution, with Georgians as well as foreigners peopling its pic- 25.10 Sleep turesque outdoor tables. The menu is short on hot dishes, but the many kinds of are delicious. Batumi increasingly attracts investors and well heeled vis- itors from Russia, Iran and Central Asia. The emphasis is • San Remo Restaurant (on the seaside, at the south on casinos and luxury hotels. Some of the ambitious hotel end of the Batumi Boulevard walking path). Elegant, projects are currently (March 2012) stalled. Prices vary with good Georgian and international food. depending on proximity to the beach and level of service • Munich (მიუნჰენი), Kutaisi/Kostava str.8/5, 6000, provided. Cheapest option are from 40 GEL for a double ☎ 0422 227284. 10:00-2:00. Restaurant with Ger- room incl breakfast. man traditional cuisine. Pizza, Seafood and Vegan dishes are also served. Paying: Visa, American Ex- press, Mastercard and Cash. Restaurant has open- 25.10.1 Budget air seats also. A bit overpriced. $15 for one course • Batumi Hostel ([email protected]), 13 meal per person. (updated Oct 2015) Mazniashvili Street (At the corner of Kostava Street), ☎ +995 555 507 705. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable hostel in a nice house in the 25.8 Drink middle of the old town. Entrance is camouflaged. Discounts available in and from Friends Hostel in • Eredeli’s Bar (ერედელის ბარი), N. Baratashvili the old town of Tbilisi. Free WIFI. Laundry. Pri- St. 1 (Down the stairs to a door with no sign and vate room also available. Two showers and bath- no name on the diagonal street just next to Europe room, kitchen, view on piazza and sea from balcony. Square (formerly Era Square) where the monument Seasonal property (opened for 2012 season in May). to Medea and the Golden Fleece is.). A very cool bar Dorm 20 GEL. 25.10. SLEEP 93

• Bbeach Hostel Batumi, 32 Kldiashvili st. (walk 25.10.2 Mid-range on the main Rustaveli avenue till you reach Tourism information center (just after Sheraton Hotel), take • Boombully Studio, M. Abashidze Ave 1 (Next left turn at the traffic lights along the park on your to Batumi state Drama Theater and Radisson Ho- right. Take the first left and you are 5 steps away tel), ☎ +995 551 100172, +995 322 931638, e- from the yard), ☎ +995 595 715 745, e-mail: mail: [email protected]. Spacious and [email protected]. Check-out: 1PM. In clean studio type apartment. With all the necessary the centre 2 min from the sea with huge open terrace amenities. Room service available upon request. and BBQ area; air conditioning; free Wi-fi; security Location is perfectly adjusted to the Batumi’s old lockers; 24h security tours desk. Seasonal Prop- town as well as connected to it’s new part. Two min- erty (open from 15 Jul to 5 Sept).Will be closed utes from Batumi’s Boulevard main entrance. Five for 2012 Season Dorm from €6.5, Privates from minutes to the beach. Please note advanced booking €14 p.p.. is necessary to check-in.

• Hotel EraPalace, 77 Z. Gorgiladze St (on the • Eiffel Tower Hostel (eiffeltowerhos- former 'Era' St), ☎ +995 222 20000, e-mail: [email protected]), M. Abashidze 39 (One block [email protected]. From 120 GEL. from Europe Square,Above Cafe: Privet iz Batumi), ☎ +995 577 98 5725. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: • 12:00. Really awesome place run by a Welshman Iliko(?), Vakhtang Gorgasali St., between K. Gam- an American and a Georgian girl. This place is sakhurdia Str. and Gen. Mazniashvili, in the heart fun and relaxing and is in a great location. If your of town. Reasonably clean. Only Russian and Geor- adventurous sleep on the top level of the 3 story gian spoken. Situated in a quiet spot. Owners run bunkbeds. . Dorm 25 GEL. Pyramid as well, which has similar prices. 20-40 GEL for two people.

• Globus Hostel Batumi, 54 Mazniashvili str. (For- • Lavro, Pushkin St., between Tbilisis Moedani and merly Rover Hostel. In the centre of Old Batumi,2 Stalin Museum. A room for with no bathroom costs blocks down from the Tbilisi square), ☎ +995 422 20 GEL (summer 2005). Reasonably clean, hot wa- 27 67 21 (Call ahead or the door may be locked), e- ter. mail: [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. Rooms are bright and clean.The hostel is completely new and fresh. Air conditioning, free laundry, free • Mercury, 10/12 Chavchavadze St., near Tbilisis Wi-fi, free sheets and towels, free maps, free tea Moedani, in the heart of town, ☎ +995 422 277501. and coffee 24h. Discounts in local cafés and in Check-out: 12.00h. Reasonably clean. English spo- Rover Hostel Tbilisi. lat:41°38'52.02\char"0022\ ken. Situated in a noisy spot, not worth the money relax{}N long: 41°38'30.39"E Dorms: 15 USD. 80 GEL for two people.

• • Gulnasi’s Guesthouse, 24/A Lermontov Street (off Hotel Ritsa, Z.Gamxakhurdia Street, no. 16, ☎ Chavchavadze Street, minibus 25, 28, 45 from bus- +995 222 73292. Clean, smart and modern hotel station; minibus 20 or bus 101 from train station - located in the old town. 60-100 GEL for two peo- get off at Lermontov), ☎ +995 599 797224, e-mail: ple, breakfast included. [email protected]. facebook: gulnasi’s Guest house; It’s possible to use the kitchen; hot showers, • Sputnik , Shervashidze Agh- WIFI, free meals will be offered frequently. Outside marti, No: 28, ☎ +995 422 276066, e-mail: the summer season the same place is also a school [email protected]. Quiet environment, great for small children but in the summer season the kids view of Batumi. 70 GEL for standard rooms with will be on vacation. This may be the best budget queen size beds. option with wheelchair access. From 10 euro.

25.10.3 Splurge • Sky Hostel, Inarisidze St. 16/59 (Quite far out from the centre on the side of the city nearer Turkey up- • stairs in an old apartment building.), ☎ +995 790 Sheraton Batumi, Ninoshvili St. Direct beach ac- 27 66 70. A useful option if other places are full. cess and friendly service. 203 rooms including 26 Kitchen but no fridge. WIFI and laundry are avail- suites. able. Most staff don't know a lot of English. As of May 2012 the water supply was often cut off due to • Intourist Palace, Ninoshvili St., on the promenade. infrastructure improvements. Dorm 20 GEL. Grand, spacious with all amenities. From $110. 94 CHAPTER 25. BATUMI

• Radisson Blu Hotel, Batumi, 1 Ni- noshvili Street, ☎ +995 422 288 888, e-mail: [email protected]. Designed by Ital- ian architect Michele De Lucchi, located on the beachfront near business district.

• Batumi Hilton, Ninoshvili St. Still under construc- tion in 2014 but looks very promising.

25.11 Go next

• Khulo - village in the mountains of Ajara, 3 hours drive East of Batumi • Kobuleti - sleepy nearby coastal town

• Sarpi - border village with Turkey, 15 km south of Batumi • Tbilisi - The capital of Georgia

• Kutaisi - The 'Marshrutka' will get you to the town centre, or drop you off at the airport on the way, for 15 GEL. Usually it takes 2 - 2.5 hours, but give your- self about 3 or so, the bus will wait in Batumi until it is full, which could mean waiting on the bus for an extra 45 minutes. The buses leave from nearby to the entrance to the Cable car, but the port. You will see them all parked there

25.11.1 Armenia

• Direct trains to Yerevan run daily during summer- time - the train leaves 15.35 and you'll arrive to Yerevan around 7.30. Second class (coupe, 4 peo- ple) costs 93GEL.

25.11.2 Turkey

• Direct buses from the terminal to various cities in Turkey. Coaches to Istanbul 60-80 GEL depending on operator. • Trabzon, Turkey Chapter 26

Chokhatauri

Chokhatauri (ჩოხატაური) is a town and distric center 26.2.2 By train in Georgia, in the Guria region. Chokhatauri is the capi- tal of the administrative district (Raioni) in Guria. Near The nearest railway station is located in Sadschawacho, 20 chokhatauri There are numerous attractions, such as the km north of Chokhatauri. Fast trains from Tbilisi keep monastery of Udabno, the mosque Zoti, the palace of in Samtredia (3:50, 17 GEL); a taxi from Samtredia after Goraberezhouli and mineral water source of Nabeghlavi. Chokhatauri costs about 25 lari. From Ozurgeti (27 km south-west; by taxi 15 Lari) depart daily two direct trains to Tbilisi (a day train, a night train, about 10 hours, from 15 GEL) 26.1 Understand 26.2.3 By bus

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Tbilisi, Batumi or Ozurgeti. A bus station. is located in the southern part of the city, next to the stadium and the mar- ket, where you can catch regular buses to mini nearby towns and the villages of the region. Most Marschrutkas wait at a “micro-bus stop” on the main road, opposite the petrol station Socar, on passengers.

26.2.4 By car

Chokhatauri lies on the well developed regional road Kobuleti-Ozurgeti-Chokhatauri-Sajavakho. This road is an infrequently used and scenic route. Chokhatauri View

It is good point to visit old churches and monasteries and 26.3 Get around for fishing and hiking. The region around the town is largely agriculturally used (wine and tea cultivation, dairy Chokhatauri is easily covered on foot or bike. You will farming). need good bike or taxi to go to nearby villages. Minibuses in the nearby villages leave from the bus station and from a small stop at the filling station Socar. Taxis usually wait for passengers on the main square. There are two gas 26.2 Get in stations that are open 24 hours a Wissol and Socar.

26.2.1 By plane 26.4 See

The Kutaisi International Airport is located 40 km north- • Nodar Dumbadze-park with monument of the east; the Batumi International Airport about 80 km south- writer as well as a monument to Ana Kalandadze west of the town. A taxi from the Kutaisi airport costs 30 Lari. • Movie Theater (1930s) with Stalin bust next door

95 96 CHAPTER 26. CHOKHATAURI

Erketi, 6km south from Chokhatauri.

• Udabno Monastery (უდაბნოს მონასტერი). con- sist from two churches, one of them is caved. Monastery is located in village Shua Amaghleba, 7 km north from Ozurgeti

• Eristavi Palace and garden. in Goraberezhouli, 5km west from Chokhatauri, is only remained sec- ular sightseeing in Guria. The territory consists a garden, stone fence, and a palace. It is dated from XVII century. • Cinema in Chokhatauri Shubani. Old church ruins in village • Bukistsikhe. Old Fortress and city ruins in village 26.4.1 Museums

• Chokhatauri museum (ჩოხატაურის მხარეთმცოდნეობის მუზეუმი), 13 Dumbadze 26.5 Do Str, ☎ +995 41922014. Tu-Sun. 10AM - 6PM. Niko Berdzenishvili Historical Museum The Near of Chokhatauri is hardly touched by tourism. Chokhatauri Was founded in 1958. 1961 was the The hills and mountains lend themselves to hiking and first exposition was held. Museum houses Archae- mountain biking, rivers for rafting or canoeing, and ological material, fighting and labor tools, burial swimming is possible. There are neither signposted hik- goods, pottery and numismatic material as well ing and cycling still prepared rafting trips or equivalent as weapons, ethnographic material, manuscripts, Also you do not get equipment on the spot. But you can personal items of Guria’s principals. free of charge. on your own perform these activities. (updated Jul 2015) • Hiking and trekking in Surebi Mountains. You • Niko Mari Memorial Museum (ნიკო მარის can go to Surebi by bus and then hike to moun- სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 558176819. Tu-Sun. tain Mefistskaro (2850 above see level) and see two 10AM - 5PM. Niko Mari Memorial Museum Was beautiful lakes called Jaji founded in 1999. Museum houses exhibitions, de- picting life of famous Georgian Scientist and Histo- • Fishing rian Niko Mari. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) • Swimming. River is suitable for swimming, the best place is Guristba in village Bukistsikhe 26.4.2 near the town • Wine tour in Bukistikhe, Iverieli winery. you can taste delicious wine, see vineyards and buy some wine

26.6 Buy

• Weekly market “Bazroba” held every Sunday in Chokhatauri. You can travel to nearby village Buk- istsikhe and buy famous Gurian wine Chkhaveri, which is grown there. So in addition to fruits and vegetables from local production and living farm an- imals (such as chickens, pigs, goats) are sold. Even Eristavi Garden and Palace in village Gora without buying worth of visit. • In the center of chokhatauri there are some mini The main attraction of Chokhatauri district is the great markets and a small “Univermag” scenery, ranging from soft hills to high mountains. • The halfway usable and well-stocked Supermarkt • Erketi monastery (ერკეთის მონასტერი). was “Marula” is located in the southern part of the city built in the 9th century and is located in village on the regional road to Bakhmaro. 26.9. SLEEP 97

• Wine tour in Bukistikhe, Iverieli winery. you can taste delicious wine, see vineyards and buy some wine

• Another wine region near Chokhatauri is Sachami- aseri, where you can get invited by the local people. Tsolikauri white wine is very popular here.

26.9 Sleep

• A small hotel (without name). It is located in the southern part of the city on the regional road after Erketi Bakhmaro, opposite the supermarket. (updated Aug 2015) • In the village Erketi you can buy homemade honey from local people. Ask for Kobidze family in • Guesthouse of Keti Sikharulidze- Kvemo Erketi village. Sharashenidze,, ☎ +995 593331374. In the green yard of this village house there is a special ATMs “village corner” and wine cellar. The house has four bedrooms, a large dining-room, balconies, and • Bank of Georgia two shared bathrooms. It is conveniently located near the high mountain resort of Bakhmaro (2050 • TBC Bank meters above sea level) and the Black Sea shore resorts. The house is located 14 km from Ozurgeti; the hostess also owns a cottage at Bakhmaro resort, 26.7 Eat which is 58km. from their village. (updated Aug 2015) • Marula (მარულა). This is near the roundabout, where the roads go to Bakhmaro. (updated Aug 2015) 26.10 Talk • Bakhmaro (ბახმარო), Dumbadze Str. You can easily find this restaurant because it is in the only See also: Georgian phrasebook three-floor building in the center of the town. (up- dated Aug 2015) Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- derstand them. When in need for help, look for younger 26.8 Drink people; they are more likely to know some English.

26.11 Connect

• Internet Cafe (ინტერნეტ კაფე). (updated Aug 2015)

26.12 Stay healthy

• Mamkoli (მამქოლი), Dumbadze Str. Modernized Hospital Mamkoli is in the center of the town, built with red brick. (updated Aug 2015) Sachamiaseri community in winter • Aversi Pharmacy (ავერსი). (updated Aug 2015) 98 CHAPTER 26. CHOKHATAURI

26.13 Go next

To the sea Ureki and Kobuleti.

• Ozurgeti • Lanchkhuti

• Aketi

• Nabeglavi • Bakhmaro

• Khidistavi Chapter 27

Dvabzu

Dvabzu (დვაბზუ) is a village in the Guria region, 6 km east from region capital Ozurgeti. The village is known for its beautiful landscape and agriculture.

27.1 Get in

27.1.1 By train

Nearest train Station is in Ozurgeti

27.1.2 By bus Ethnographic Museum

There are several departures from Ozurgeti. 27.4 Buy

27.1.3 By car There is a well-stocked store in the village center. You can find another big market in Ozurgeti. Dvabzu is connected to Ozurgeti with paved local road. The road is in good condition.

27.5 Sleep 27.2 Get around • Nazi Javelidze guesthouse (ნაზი ჯაველიძის You can easily walk or cycle in Dvabzu. საოჯახო სასტუმრო). There is one Guesthouse, further away from village center, in Gaghma Dv- abzu. You will find sign point on the central road. (updated Aug 2015) 27.3 See

• Ethnographic museum (ეთნოგრაფიული მუზეუმი). The building represents an old wooden 27.6 Talk house with ornaments. There are Gurian char- acteristic facilities:, barn, Oda-house, wine cellar exhibited. (updated Jul 2015) See also: Georgian phrasebook

• Dvabzu church (დვაბზუს ეკლესია). with six- Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- meter high stone walls built from the 4th century. gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- It is located on the left side of river Bakhvistskali derstand them. When in need for help, look for younger (updated Jul 2015) people; they are more likely to know some English.

99 100 CHAPTER 27. DVABZU

27.7 Connect

• Women for Regional Development (ქალები რეგიონის განვითარებისთვის), ☎ +995 593765481, e-mail: [email protected]. You can ask a local NGO to internet. (updated Jul 2015)

27.8 Go next

• Ozurgeti • Shemokmedi

• Mtispiri Chapter 28

Khidistavi

Khidistavi (ხიდისთავი) is a village in the Guria region. 28.2.2 By train The village is located in the Chokhatauri district 9 km southwest from the district center and 23 km east regional The nearest train station is located in Ozurgeti about 30 capital Ozurgeti. Khidistavi is located on the access road km away. Another useful option is the Samtredia station to Nabeglavi and Bakhmaro. The village is known due to about 45 km northeast of Khidistavi. A taxi from Samtre- the numerous swimming places in mountain rivers. dia costs about 25 GEL from Ozurgeti 15 GEL

28.1 Understand 28.2.3 By bus

The village is located by the river Gubaseuli, in the foothills of the and was founded around the 1870s. The name derives from the local Khidistavib- ridge over the river from and means “bridgehead”. The former wooden bridge was washed away in the past dur- ing floods repeatedly, so that only the bridgeheads were left. Mid-20th century, the bridge was replaced by a con- crete bridge chip, which has since been stable. It is named after the poet and writer Nodar Dumbadze, who lived in Khidistavi. The surrounding villages live mainly from agriculture. During the Soviet era these villages were also popular places as summer resorts, pioneer camps and recreational Khidistavi - Bus Stop on main square spaces. Khidistavi is lively, especially in summer when the expatriates coming to rest. In winter, the town is al- You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Chokhatauri most dead. or minibus going to Bakhmaro from Ozurgeti during Climate: Subtropical. Mild, wet winters. Warm, humid summer season. Minibuses or Marschrutkas keep in summers. The clouds that are blown away by the zoom Khidistavi in the village center at the beautiful bus Westwind over Black Sea, remain in the nearby moun- stop. Marschrutkas go irregularly from Chokhatauri or tains of the Lesser Caucasus and rain hanging off here. Ozurgeti to Khidistawi. Also from Tbilisi (bus station Therefore, it can rain often in the summer, usually are “Dedakalaki” above the Central Station) depart daily at 8 the brief summer storms, some with heavy rain. clock in the morning (about 5 hours, 17 GEL). Better bus services from the or in the nearby regional centers, and also to Batumi and Tbilisi have been from Chokhatauri, but especially from Ozurgeti. From there 28.2 Get in you can take a taxi or auto stop.

28.2.1 By plane 28.2.4 By car Nearest airports with scheduled services are located in Batumi (85km) and Kutaisi (about 50 km). A taxi to or Khidistavi lies on the regional road Chokhatauri- from the Kutaisi airport costs as of summer 2014 about Bakhmaro. From Chokhatauri drive to Bakhmaro and 30 GEL. about 9 km away you will reach Khidistavi.

101 102 CHAPTER 28. KHIDISTAVI

28.3 Get around 28.4.1 Museums

• You can easily walk in Khidistavi. In the surrounding Nodar Dumbadze Memorial Museum (ნოდარ area a car or a mountain bike is recommended (for the დუმბაძის სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 55110464, e- side streets: SUV). Even auto-stop is a good way to move mail: [email protected]. Tu-Sun. 10 forward and. AM - 5 PM. Nodar Dumbadze Memorial Museum Chokhatauri Was founded in 1988. Museum houses materials depicting life of famous Georgian writer Nodar Dumbadze. free of charge. (updated Jul 28.4 See 2015) • Mose Gogiberidze Memorial Museum (მოსე გოგიბერიძის სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 591180494. Tu-Sun. 10 AM - 5 PM. Mose Gogiberidze Memorial Museum Chokhatauri Was founded in 1977. Museum houses materials de- picting life of famous Georgian Philosopher Mose Gogiberidze. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

28.5 Do

• Hiking and trekking in Bakhmaro mountains. There are paths trough the woods going to Bakhmaro from Khidistavi village Khidistavi Obelisk

Whitewater Baden: The rivers in and around the place can The Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge Nodar Dumbadze- be awarded in the summer to use for a cool refreshment. Bridge, a simple, narrow concrete bridge from the 1950s, spans the river Gubaseuli. You can reach the main square of the town by a tall maple tree whose canopy leaves ap- pear on the bridge like a tunnel. The bus stop with splendid , one of the finest in the country, is lo- cated on the main square. Furthermore you will find the Former Univermag - a constructivist functional build- ing from the 1970s, now vacant; and the Urban Park with Monument dedicated to Stalin’s speech. In the center you will find also Former town hall, aban- doned today; Former home of the author Ana Ka- landadze (1924-2008) (not accessible) and an old wa- termill: All technical details like water wheel are still present. The mill is now electrically driven

Khidistavi - House of Ana Kalandadze Khidistavi - Churiistskali 28.6. BUY 103

• Tchuriistskali (ჭურიისწყალი). a walk about 20 28.6 Buy minutes from the center on a slippery slope discloses a natural hot tub with waterfall. You can jump into Buy very delicious honey in Khidistavi, from local people. the natural pool even without danger and can be Some small stores can be found in the center of Khidis- massaged at the rapids in the river. In the summer tavi, open-air markets can be found in Nabeglavi during is always busy, popular among young people. (up- summer season dated Aug 2015) At the bus stop in the town center, there are three small mini markets where one gets everything vital. In most • Large stones (დიდი ქვები). these massive rocks of them there is also a vending machine where you can can be found after 20 minutes walk from the cen- charge your mobile phone with the bank. In addition to ter in the middle of the river Gubaseuli, they can the bus stop and fresh fruit and vegetables sold in the day- be used to sunbathe on. Popular with slightly older time. people. Access trough a private garden, ask kindly about access the owner. (updated Aug 2015) Better shopping options are in Chokhatauri, but espe- cially in Ozurgeti (market, bookstore). There are also ATMs and money changers, which you will not find in • Schotaia (შოთაია). small sandy beach. Access Khidistavi. trough Didi Kvebi and then a little bit along the river upstream or directly from the street through a nar- • The Berdnidse family (ბერძნიძეების ოჯახი), ☎ row and steep path. (updated Aug 2015) +995 590594833. sells homemade honey and honey vodka. about 3 km east of the road to Bakhmaro • Akvania (აკვანია). (updated Aug 2015) Khidistavi turn left after the rock wall at the first houses, note the small, hand-painted sign "თაფლი" (Tapli = honey). The son of the family speaks well • Lake of Luba (ლუბას ტბა). about an hour’s walk German, but is rarely at home. honey 1 kg 15 Lari; from the town center, lake is located on one side of vodka 1 l 12 Lari. (updated Aug 2015) the creek Gubaseuli a natural lake which invites for swimming and cliff jumping. There is even a small • The Gudavadze family (გუდავაძეების ოჯახი), sandy beach. Difficult to reach, it was very quiet ☎ +995 599639939. sells homemade honey honey (updated Aug 2015) 1 kg 15 Lari. (updated Aug 2015)

• Dzhikoia (ჯიქოია). On the island of gravel be- neath the Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge you will also 28.7 Eat gladly bathed and sunbathed. (updated Aug 2015) There is no restaurant. For this you have to go to • Satavani (სათავანი). You can swim at the Chokhatauri or Ozurgeti. But if you are lucky, you may nice place where the river from Lubas Lake meets be invited and get offered homemade products: house Gubaseuli. Water is deep enough to jump from this wine, home-distilled, cheese and honey. Just try. very weir into the water. (updated Aug 2015)

• Sashvalo (საშვალო). A little further away from 28.8 Stay safe the center. You have to go through a private prop- erty. There is an old house, in front of a real art There is little crime. Police cars are patrolling repeat- nouveau bedstead. At the big rocks you pass on the edly. Some native plants in the garden or in the forest right and follow a steep path to the river Sashvalo. Marijuana. You may get invited to try it, but Hands off! Which you follow about 100 meters upstream to the If you are caught with drugs in Georgia, the draconian confluence of another river (Kalascha) by looking in punishments may ensue. flow direction right side. Now follow this river for about 30 meters and reach a small natural lake with a sandy beach. (updated Aug 2015) 28.9 Talk

Caution: swimming places are neither protected nor su- See also: Georgian phrasebook pervised and also there is no infrastructure developed. You should be an experienced swimmer. Watch on sharp Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- rocks that lie just below the water surface and are not visi- gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- ble. Risk of injury. Avoid jumping into unknown waters. derstand them. When in need for help, look for younger Ii is Better to ask locals where to swim. people; they are more likely to know some English. 104 CHAPTER 28. KHIDISTAVI

28.10 Go next

• Ozurgeti

• Chokhatauri • Nabeglavi

• Bakhmaro Chapter 29

Khulo

Khulo is a city in the Autonomus Republic of Adjara in 29.8 Drink Southwestern Georgia. 29.9 Sleep

29.1 Understand There is a minor hotel right next to the bus stop. 15 Lari for a clean room with toilet and shower. Other option Khulo is a cozy and small city in the mountains of Ajara. may include home stays. The tourist informations office can assist you.

29.2 Get in 29.10 Connect

Daily mini bus from the main bus station in Batumi, 2- 3 hours, 6-8 Lari. Infrequent bus service to Akhaltsikhe 29.11 Go next and through the Goderzi pass. Hitch hiking is easy if you know a few phrases in Georgian or Russian.

29.3 Get around

Khulo is easily walkable.

29.4 See

29.5 Do

Take the cable car across the valley. The cable car stretches 1700 meter across and a ride takes 10 minutes. The cable car is used for daily means of transportation by the locals.

29.6 Buy

29.7 Eat

A number of shops and restaurants are located around the bus stop and in the upper part of the city.

105 Chapter 30

Lanchkhuti

Lanchkhuti (ლანჩხუთი) is the small town and a capi- 30.2.3 By bus tal of the administrative district in Georgia, in Guria re- gion. It is a good jumping off point for nearby beaches, There are daily coach arrivals and departures in several old monasteries and . The town lies in the directions: Kutaisi, Samtredia, Poti and Batumi, also Colchian lowlands south of the river Rioni at the foot of Tbilisi, as well as easy mini bus (marshrutka) access to the hill country Gurian. nearest villages and sites of tourist interest in the area. At the main square there is a small bus station where Marschrutkas and taxis in the area and the nearby regional centers depart. 30.1 Understand 30.2.4 By car Lanchkhuti was a village and gained town charter during Soviet era. Lanchkhuti is famous for Gurian horse rid- Lanchkhuti lies on the well-developed highway “S 12” ers, who participated in Wild West Shows in USA. Every (Ureki - Samtredia). It represents a shortcut on the route year on the Orthodox Easter Monday finds in Schuchuti, Tbilisi-Batumi, as you so does not have to Poti. The 5 km east of lanchkhuti, the traditional Rugby Match town is linked with roads to Batumi (southwest) and Poti “Leloburti”. The economic development of Lanchkhuti (northwest), Kutaisi (east) and with two regional roads began early 20th century with the connection to the rail- with region capital Ozurgeti (south). Roads from Ozur- way line Samtredia-Batumi. Here were - and still are - geti are beautiful, but winding, and are ideal for a scenic agricultural products from the area processed. drive.

30.2.5 By boat 30.2 Get in There is a small harbor in village Supsa, which is only used by oil tankers. Supsa is the end point of an oil 30.2.1 By plane pipeline from Baku. Next seaports with passenger traffic are in Poti (about 60 km) and Batumi (about 70 km). The nearest major international airport is in Tbilisi (320km), while Batumi (80km) and Kutaisi (50km) In- ternational Airports are the nearest accessible airports. 30.3 Get around Trabzon airport (280km) in Turkey might be an option, also.

30.2.2 By train

Lanchkhuti has a railway station, which can Be Reached from both Batumi and Tbilisi. Lanchkhuti lies on the rail- way line Samtredia-Batumi. All express trains between Tbilisi and Batumi also keep in Lanchkhuti. The train station is 600 meters north of the center. Tickets can be bought at stations and online. Map of , in Georgian

106 30.4. SEE 107

A small town, Lanckhuti is easily covered on foot. The town has no public transport system. Buses and minibuses (marshrutkas) operate only within the surrounding area. Taxis and Marschrutkas in the surrounding area can be found on the main square and on arrival of a train at the train station. Cycling can be an option, also, but there are no bike rentals available. Taxis are cheap and cost GEl 3-5 (USD 1-2) within the town.

30.4 See

Museum of Egnate Ninoshvili

bronze axes, ancient ceramics, 4th century bronze cross, the 11th century stone inscription, exhibits dedicated to Gurian horse riders, who participated in Wild West Shows in USA. 1 GEL. (updated Jul 2015)

• Egnate Ninoshvili House Museum (ეგნატე ნინოშვილის სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 599564794. Mo-Fr 10-17. The museum was officially opened in 1950 in honor of the famous writer Egnate Ni- noshvili. The museum consists of four exhibition halls. In the first section of the hall is dedicated to Ninoshvili’s childhood. The second hall displays illustrations of the novel “The Uprising in Guria”. The third hall tells stories illustrating the unlucky in love, about which the writer told his story “Chris- tine”. The fourth room is fully dedicated to the theme: “Egnate and modernity”. 1 GEL. (updated Jul 2015)

30.4.2 Around the town

Lanchkhuti - Monument on main square

• A statue of a Gurian man, which represents the Gurian uprising from 1905.

In the city center there is the theater and a nice park.

30.4.1 Museums

• Lanchkhuti museum (ლანჩხუთის მხარეთმცოდნეობის მუზეუმი), #21 Ninoshvili Jumati monastery, 1877-1878 Str, ☎ +995 593196340. Tu-Sun. 10 AM - 6 PM. Lanchkhuti museum was founded in 1978. It contains archaeological, numismatic, fine art, • Jumati Monastery (ჯუმათის მონასტერი). This ethnography, nature, historical exhibits. Especially 16th-to-18th-century monastery is located on the noteworthy are bronze helmet (4th century BC), hill in the village of Jumati. The monastery consists 108 CHAPTER 30. LANCHKHUTI

of a basilica of the Archangels Michael and , drink wine from the ball. For visitors it is interesting a bell tower, walls and other monastic buildings. The to watch, to play along is not advised! Information facility was built in the , while the about past games can be found on internet frescoes date from the 16th to 18th centuries. The bell tower with a square base was built in 1904 and • Climb a cave in the village of Oragve. is partially destroyed today. Jumati Monastery was • Fishing in the small rivers and lakes an important religious and cultural center of Guria. Here valuable icons, and documents, some of which also had secular significance, were kept. In the 20th century the monastery was robbed several 30.6 Buy times. Fragments of several icons from Jumati are now in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg, the Lou- There is Farmers Market (Bazari) and a lot of small stores vre in Paris and the Metropolitan Museum in New in the center of the town. York. Beautiful views of Guria and Samegrelo low- lands and Black Sea can be seen from the hill. (up- • Bank of Georgia dated Jul 2015) • Liberty Bank • Jikheti monastery (ჯიხეთის მონასტერი). a • ProCredit Bank XIX century monastery, is located 14 km east from Lanchkhuti (updated Jul 2015)

• Our Savior’s and Saint George churches in Aketi. 30.7 Eat The village of Aketi is 12km south of Lanchkhuti. Saint George church was built in the Middle Ages Eating in Lanchkhuti is very cheap. Prices per person and Our Savior’s church was built in 1899. may be vary from 5 to 10 USD. Do not buy wine in restaurants, its better to buy wine in a shop and take it • Arches of Gurielis (principals who governed the re- in restaurant. The best choices are Corn bread, cheese, gion during the feudal era), destroyed palace in vil- cucumber and tomato salad, eggplant with nuts, barbe- lage of Lesa, 7 km west from Lanchkhuti. cue, , Khachapuri, Beef with potatoes (Ojakhuri), in garlic (Shkmeruli). Almost all cafes and • Medieval fortress in village of Japana, 16 km east restaurants can be found in the town center. of Lanchkhuti.

• Old churches in villages of Machkhvareti, Baglebi and Nigoiti 30.8 Drink

If you get invited to someone’s house, your host may 30.5 Do also offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously potent vodka distilled from grapes that is quite similar to Italian • Lanchkhuti Theatre (ლანჩხუთის თეატრი). grappa.

• Despite Georgia’s failure to score a major success since independence, football (soccer) remains the 30.9 Sleep most popular sport in the country, and Lanchkhuti as well. The town has its football club Guria, which There is only one hotel in Lanchkhuti in the center of the participated in the Soviet Super League in 1980s town, but there is wide range of sleeping options outside and was very popular, so football is the main enter- the town, in resort Grigoleti. tainment for local people. Even public institutions stop working during the match day.

• Attend traditional Leloburti (very similar to rugby) 30.10 Talk in Shukhuti on Easter Sunday. Leloburti is played Always on the Orthodox Easter Monday in vil- See also: Georgian phrasebook lages Kvemo Shukhuti and Zemo Shukhuti (upper and lower-Shukhuti), which are about 5 km east Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- of Lanchkhuti. Leloburti is a special rugby match gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- against each other: The ball is made in a special cer- derstand them. The older generation speaks Russian flu- emony. The villagers are fighting against each other ently, and Armenian as well. The younger generation now bitterly After kickoff, and bleeding wounds are not studies English. When in need for help, look for younger uncommon. After the game, the winning team may people; they are more likely to know some English. 30.15. GO NEXT 109

30.11 Work

Working time in Lanckkhuti starts at 09:00 or 10:00 and end at 16:00–18:00. Locals like to take an hour lunch break and enjoy their food while socializing with their co-workers. Approaches to punctuality used to be very relaxed. Summer (late July-August) and January are months when people take two weeks or a whole month off work to enjoy vacationing with family. A local wage in Lanckkhuti will typically be around 300–400 GEL a month, with only a small section of public servants mak- ing in the range of 800–1000 GEL a month.

30.12 Connect

There are 3 GSM operators of mobile phone service: Magticom, Geocell and Beeline.

30.13 Stay safe

Lanchkhuti is very safe for travelers. the crime rate is among the lowest in Europe. Most of the streets are illu- minated at night. Police cars patrol the streets in the town and can help with any problem. Call 112 in any case of emergency (police, ambulance, fire). The Police Office can be found in the center of the town.

30.14 Stay healthy

In the city center there are some pharmacies.

30.15 Go next

There are plenty of buses and minibuses to neighbor- ing villages (generally 0.5 GEL to 2 GEL). Buses and minibuses leave from bus station. The best destination may include village Aketi, Jikheti Monastery and Jumati Monastery. Popular destinations may include Kolkheti National Park and Paliastomi Lake near Poti or Capital of he region Ozurgeti.

30.15.1 Beach resorts (only in summer)

• Ureki • Grigoleti Chapter 31

Likhauri

Likhauri is a village in Guria.

31.1 Understand

Likhauri is just a sweet, picturesque village in the Guria region of Georgia. It is known for its medieval churches in Likhauri and Achi.

31.2 Get in

31.2.1 By train Likhauri church Nearest train Station is in Ozurgeti fortress was built in the 12th century, allegedly by 31.2.2 By bus Queen Tamar, therefore it is also called Fortress of Tamar. (updated Aug 2015) You can catch a mashrutka from Ozurgeti.

31.2.3 By car

Likhauri is connected to Ozurgeti with well-developed lo- cal road. route from Ozurgeti to Likhauri

31.3 Get around

It’s a small village, so your feet will serve you just fine.

31.4 See Achis eklesia • Likhauri church (ლიხაურის ეკლესია). Likhauri has a church built in the 15th century. Church is lo- • Achi Church (აჭის ეკლესია). Achi Church is a cated in the center of the village. St. Mary’s Church medieval Georgian Orthodox Church. It was built in of Lichauri was built in the 12th century of carved the 13th or 14th century. The church is a single-nave stone. It has a free-standing bell tower. (updated hall church and is built of hewn stone. To them run- Aug 2015) ning around a high wall. The church and the walls have been renovated several times. The church has • Likhauri fortress (ლიხაურის ციხე). The fortress two entrance doors on the southern and western wall. is situated west from the church, on the Hill. The Above the doors there are the traditional Georgian

110 31.8. DRINK 111

ornaments. On the southern wall a Georgian inscrip- • Niabauri (ნიაბაური). If you follow the main road tion is mounted in the interior the walls are deco- for a while, you will soon see a yellow sign with rated with frescoes from the 13th century. (updated Georgian letters and a beer advertisement. Follow Aug 2015) this road to a nice restaurant, where at least one of the people speaks decent English, and enjoy some meat , or salads if you're a vegetarian. (up- dated Aug 2015)

Ekvtime Takaishvili Museum

• Ekvtime Takaishvili Museum (ექვთიმე თაყაიშვილის მუზეუმი). Museum represents Village Achi stylized wooden Gurian type house, which is surrounded by a stone fence. The museum has four exhibition halls. The museum houses Ekvtime • Chkimarte (ჭყიმარტე). (updated Aug 2015) Takaishvili (Georgian archaeologist and politician) photographs, books, personal items. (updated Aug 2015) 31.8 Drink

31.5 Do The restaurant serves beer, or if you're lucky, the villagers will treat you to some homebrew. • If you follow the main road, along the river, you will soon find quite a picturesque scene of giant boulders, a small waterfall, and more. Local children and oth- 31.9 Go next ers go up there to swim in the summertime, and it’s quite shaded and cool. Keep walking to the next few villages, or head back to Ozurgeti. There are two places good to swim: Gogorikidze in Likhauri and Devis Kva in Achi

31.6 Buy

There is one small shop, which strangely enough has a fair amount of chocolate, and a pharmacy if you happen to need headache tablets after too many ringtones blasted in your ear. Visit Janverdi Tsetskhladze Farm in village Gogieti where you can buy homemade honey and enjoy remote village life.

31.7 Eat

Both restaurants in Likhauri area are known for trouts from local mountain rivers Chapter 32

Mtispiri

Mtispiri (მთისპირი) is a village in the Guria region, 20 32.3 See km southeast from region capital Ozurgeti. The village is known for its medieval churches and ancient fortress, also for its clay mining.

Mtispiri village

32.1 Get in

32.1.1 By bus Askana Fortress, depicted in an old photograph Minibus from Ozurgeti and Batumi departs everyday. Minibus from Ozurgeti costs 2 GEL. from Chokhatauri, • Askana fortress (ასკანის ციხე). With six-meter but especially from Ozurgeti. From there you can take a high stone walls built in the 4th century. It is located taxi or auto stop. on the left side of river Bakhvistskali. On the way to the fortress you will find two small lakes. (updated Jul 2015) 32.1.2 By car • Clay mining (ბენტონიტური თიხების საბადო). Mtispiri an be reached from Ozurgeti trough lo- (updated Jul 2015) cal road Bakvhi-Smhvidobarui-Mtispiri or Dvabzu- Pampaleti-Mtispiri. Both roads are old and not paved. • Maria Hill and church (მარიამას გორი). (up- SUV will be good option for driving. dated Jul 2015)

• Intskirveli’s church (ინწკირველების ეკლესია). 32.2 Get around (updated Jul 2015) • Vaniskedi Church (ვანისქედის ეკლესია). (up- You can easily walk in Mtispiri. dated Jul 2015)

112 32.8. GO NEXT 113

32.4 Do • Bakhmaro

Festival in Askana

• There is a path going trough woods from Vaniskedi (4 km south of Mtispiri) to Bakhmaro. • There is a local festival every 30 August in village Askana, 2 km east from Mtispiri

32.5 Buy

There is one small market in the village center. You can find another small markets in the centers of nearby villages Askana and Bakhvi .

32.6 Drink

• Chkhaveri (ჩხავერი). try the most famous Gurian Wine Chkhaveri (Rose wine). Guria seems to be not a Wine region such as Kakheti, but, truly, Guria has very big tradition on wine making and Chkhaveri is best of them. 1 L 20 GEL. (updated Aug 2015)

32.7 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- derstand them. When in need for help, look for younger people; they are more likely to know some English.

32.8 Go next

• Ozurgeti • Khidistavi Chapter 33

Nabeglavi

Nabeglavi (ნაბეღლავი) is a village and balneological 33.3 Get around mountain resort Georgia, in the Guria region. Nabeglavi is easily covered on foot or bike.

33.1 Understand 33.4 See

Bugara Mamaladze statue River Guzabeuli in village Nabeglavi

• Statue of Bughara Mamaladze in village . Nabeglavi is famous for its carbonated mineral water, Bugara Mamaladze was local robber, but he was which is very similar to other famous Georgian Mineral very popular among local people (seems like Robin Water “Borjomi” Hood). • Old Fortress “Ghomis Tsikhe” in village Zoti • Mosque in village Zoti 33.2 Get in

33.2.1 By bus 33.5 Buy

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Chokhatauri • Trout farm (საკალმახე), village Chkhakoura, ☎ or minibus going to Bakhmaro from Ozurgeti during +995 593 355629. in the village Chkhakoura on summer season. the provincial road to Bakhmaro, shortly before the first Serpentine, is a large trout farm. If you drive at the apex of the Serpentine a bad dirt road straight ahead, you reach another trout. Trout to his car this 33.2.2 By car road not to, the owner comes to telephone order even down to the main road. Here he comes walking, he Nabeglavilies on the well developed regional road which needed about half an hour. The best way is call- connects Chokhatauri with mountain resort Bakhmaro. ing in advance. The trout are sold alive, you must

114 33.9. GO NEXT 115

kill, clean and disembowel yourself. 10 lari per kilo- • Chokhatauri gram.. (updated Aug 2015) • Bakhmaro • Khidistavi 33.6 Sleep

There is some options for sleep in Bakhmaro. There is one Hotel (USD 50 per night) and a lot of cottages for rent. Prices start from GEL 300 for non comfortable cot- tages (without water and toilette) to USD 1200 for cot- tages with all equipment and comfort in.

33.7 Drink

Chkhakaura.jpg

• Mineral water Nabeghlavi which is very popular in Georgia is bottled here. there is a freely accessible source of water In the park in front of the factory. The Nabeghlavi is the great rival of Borjomi, it has less iron and is therefore milder and more drinkable. Drinking water direct from the spring is free.

• Another Mineral Water source Sanislia can be found in village Zoti.

33.8 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- derstand them. When in need for help, look for younger people; they are more likely to know some English.

33.9 Go next

• Ozurgeti Chapter 34

Ozurgeti

Ozurgeti (ოზურგეთი, from 1934 to 1989 Makharadze მახარაძე) is the small town in Georgia, capital of Guria region. It is a good jumping off point for nearby beaches, mountain resorts, old monasteries and rural tourism.

34.1 Understand

Ozurgeti was founded in the Middle Ages, 16th Century. The city was the residence of the Prince of Guria and became a trading center in later centuries. Ozurgeti re- ceived its town charter in 1840, after becoming part of Russian Empire. The town was a strategic location in the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78). In the 19th century Ozurgeti railway station Ozurgeti became the hometown of tea producing and cit- rus growing in Georgia. In 1905 Ozurgeti was center of Georgian Social-Democratic Movement and capital of so called “Gurian Republic” which existed during Russian There is a daily train pair each to Tbilisi (night and day Revolution. From 1934 to 1989, the city was named af- trains) and Batumi (day train). The former holds the ter the Georgian Communist Party leader of the 1920s road, among others in Samtredia, The second one also and 1930s, Philip Makharadze. Today’s layout and im- in Kobuleti. Ticket prices from Tbilisi to Ozurgeti vary age of the town was established during Soviet times. The between GEL 15-30. Trains leave twice a day and take largest employers in the city are government and finan- circa 9 hour. Batumi-Ozurgeti train leaves once a day, cial institutions, and nut cultivation is the main economic only evenings and takes 2 hour. Tickets from both cities activity. can be bought at stations and online. The station a magnificent and newly renovated neo- classical building, is located approximately 500 m north 34.2 Get in of the center at the end of the Ilia Chavchavadze Street. There is a ticket office and Mini Bus station over there. 34.2.1 By plane Taxis await incoming passengers. A taxi from station to city costs 3 to 5 GEL, to villages 4 to 20 GEL. The nearest major international airport is in Tbilisi (340km), while Batumi (60km) and Kutaisi (70km) In- ternational Airports are the nearest accessible airports. Trabzon airport (250km) in Turkey might be an option, also. 34.2.3 By bus

There are daily coach arrivals and departures in several 34.2.2 By train directions: Kutaisi, Samtredia, Kobuleti and Batumi, also Tbilisi, as well as easy mini bus (marshrutka) access to Ozurgeti has a railway station, which Can Be Reached nearest villages and sites of tourist interest in the area. from both Batumi and Tbilisi. Ozurgeti is end point of a The main bus station is situated south of the city center branch line from on the Black Sea coast. next to the large roundabout.

116 34.4. SEE 117

34.2.4 By car the central square of the town. Ruins are left open-air, so its free to visit. These baths must have been oldest Ozurgeti lies on the well-developed regional road "შ 2” building in the town. The oldest survived building of the (Kobuleti - Chokhatauri - Sadzhavakho - Samtredia), "შ town is Palace of Dimitri Gurieli, built in 1863, used 46” Ureki-Natanebi-Ozurgeti and "შ 84” Lanchkhuti - to be a residence of the noble family, which is now used Lesa - Ozurgeti; about 7km east from the regional road as a residence of the local Bishop of Georgian Ortho- 'შ 47” Nasakirali - Schuchuti. Roads are paved with as- dox Church. XIX century typical Gurian wooden houses, phalt, except "შ 84” which is paved with concrete. Roads with balconies and tile roofs can be found scattered in the are beautiful, but winding, and are ideal for a scenic drive. town. The city center is dominated by a Dramatic Theater- filling stations the second largest theater building in Georgia, with statue of Alexander Tsutsunava, famous Georgian movie direc- • Wissol (ვისოლი), Takaishvili Str. petrol (updated tor, born in Ozurgeti. The city center extends along the Aug 2015) Chavchavadze street north to the quite remarkable train station. All around are typical magnificent Soviet build- • Gulf (გალფი). petrol (updated Aug 2015) ings of the 1930s to the 1960s, in the classical style, such • Lukoil (ლუკოილი), Kostava Str. petrol (updated as Former movie theater - built in 1930s and renovated Aug 2015) 1980s, but nonfunctional yet and former hotel - con- structivist building from the 1970s. Slightly away from • Socar (სოკარი), Takaishvili Str. petrol (updated the town center is a industrial complex of a clay fac- Aug 2015) tory with glorious Soviet residential and administrative buildings and wall mosaics. Also worthy is a mural at • Rompetrol (რომპეტროლი), Aghmashenebeli Str. a sports school near the train station. Another Soviet petrol (updated Aug 2015) industrial and administrative building can be found in • Prometegas (პრომეთეგაზი), Takaishvili Str. gas Anaseuli, an outskirt in south-western part of the town. (updated Aug 2015) There are also two newly built, Postmodern architecture • Prometegas (პრომეთეგაზი). gas (updated Aug buildings: Police Office (2009) and 2015) (2012).

34.3 Get around 34.4.1 Museums and galleries • Historical Museum Of Ozurgeti (ოზურგეთის A small town, Ozurgeti is easily covered on foot. The ისტორიული მუზეუმი), Chokhatauri Str, ☎ +995 town has no public transport system. Buses and Mini 496 75827, e-mail: [email protected]. buses (Marschrutkas) go only in the surrounding area. 10-18 everyday. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) Cycling can be an option, also, but there are no bike rentals, though. Bikes are sold in “Univermagi” for 250- 300 GEL (USD 100-125). Taxi’s are cheap and cost GEl Historical Museum of Ozurgeti has been founded in 1936 3-5 (USD 1-2) within the town. y. nowadays more than 6000 exhibits are saved in the funds of the museum, which chronology consists the pe- Ozurgeti has following districts: the center, where gov- riod since IX millennium of BC until today. Numer- ernment, financial, shopping and service provider institu- ous unique materials have been accumulated during 75 tions are based, Seri south from the center, located on years in the founds of Ozurgeti Historical Museum, at list the small hill, historical part of the town Ekadia, for- there are Neolithic stone weapons, produced 7000 years mer village, now part of the town, south of river Bzhuzhi; ago, Best models of Kolkhian culture from Early, Middle Anaseuli - Soviet-era settlement with former tea factory and Late Bronze age, collections of Kolkhian axes; burial and scientific institutions and sleeping districts: Lashe- ground stocks aged with Late Bronze- Early Iron pe- Gakiruli in the eastern part of the town, Zvani in the riod; Golden and silver things of Antique period: golden western part and Moidanakhe on the northern hill, where breastplate, the fragment of golden bracelet (both of the town’s major cemeteries are located. them are beautified with Almandine crystal); silver dish, measuring-glass; The water pipes, heads of the columns, the thing for incense, glass of the window, the brick for 34.4 See building; diversified numismatic collections: Kolkhian Tetri of VI-III centuries from BC, golden coin of Alexan- The main sightseeing in the town is an archaeological site, der Macedonian; the coins of georgian Kings; Silver, rare remains of Baths, which were built and used by rulers European coins; well-known Rapier of Napoleon, many of Principality of Guria - Gurieli. Baths are located on historical photos, documentary materials. 118 CHAPTER 34. OZURGETI

• Ozurgeti fine art Gallery (ოზურგეთის სახვითი Created in 1930, it covers about 3 hectares and is ხელოვნების ცენტრი), #6 Shota Rustaveli Str, ☎ located in front of town hall building, #2 Kostava +995 496 74542, e-mail: [email protected]. Str. It is used as Children’s Amusement Park. There Mo-Fr 10-17. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) is free WI-Fi available free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) • Ekvtime Takaishvili Archaeological Museum- • Park of 9th April, located in the center of town, Reserve (ექვთიმე თაყაიშვილის სახელობის below of Museum and Public Service Hall არქეოლოგიური მუზეუმ-ნაკრძალი), #8 9th April Str, ☎ +995 590880118, e-mail: • Ekadia Forest-Park, located in the south of town, [email protected]. Mo-Fr 10-17. free of in Ekadia district. Forest-park was developed in charge. (updated Jul 2015) 1960s, but now its not used. Good views of the town can be seen from the park Here are archaeological artifacts exhibited, as well as an exhibition on the life of Ektwmie Takaischwili can be seen. Museum itself is located in old Gurian type wooden 34.4.3 Around the town house, with fireplace and balcony.

34.4.2 Parks and gardens

Shemoqmedi church

• Shemokmedi Monastery (შემოქმედის მონასტერი). This 12th-to-16th-century monastery Platanus garden is located on the hill in the eponymous village of Ozurgeti is known for its gardens, some of them date Shemokmedi, about 7 km southeast of Ozurgeti. back to XIX century. Scottish gardener Mar devel- The monastery complex consists of two church oped town garden in early 1810s fot his client Principal buildings and a bell tower from the 16th century. of Guria Mamia III Gurieli. That garden now is divided The main church, a three-aisled basilica without into three parts: Platanus garden is in front of The- cupola, was built in the 12th century. The walls are ater building and has access to free WI-Fi, platanus trees built of hewn stone, the floor is covered with mar- make a "მ" (M in Georgian Alphabet) shape; so called ble. The second, smaller church called “zarzma” Samkuthkha (triangle garden) is on the right side of was built in the 16th century by the prince of Guria the Theater building and has an open-air mini-football Vakhtang I. Gurieli as home to an icon of the ground, there is, also, Statue of Alexander Tsutsunava, Transfiguration of the Lord. In the Middle Ages, famous Georgian director, who was born in Ozurgeti and the monastery was one of the richest monasteries in Ozurgeti dramatic Theater is named after him; and for- Georgia. In the monastery there were several relics, mer “Beria Park”, which is located in front of Dimitri such as very valuable icons, stored. Great views of Gurieli’s palace. Slightly south of the park, a car-free Guria’s villages can be seen from the hill. free of area with a Soviet-era mermaid sculpture and musical charge. (updated Jul 2015) fountain can be found. Other parks are: • Jumati Monastery (ჯუმათის მონასტერი). This 16th-to-18th-century monastery is located on the • Park of Culture and Resort (კულტურისა hill in the village of Jumati, 14 km north of Ozur- და დასვენების პარკი), #2 Kostava Str, ☎ +995 geti. The monastery consists of a basilica of the 551106194, e-mail: [email protected]. 24/7. Archangels Michael and Gabriel, a bell tower, walls 34.5. DO 119

• Jikheti monastery (ჯიხეთის მონასტერი), a XIX century monastery, is located 40 km northeast from Ozurgeti • Erketi monastery (ერკეთის მონასტერი) was built in the 9th century and is located in village Er- keti, 32km east from Ozurgeti. • Udabno Monastery (უდაბნოს მონასტერი) con- sist from two churches, one of them is caved. Monastery is located in village Shua Amaghleba, 35 km northeast from Ozurgeti • Our Saviors and Saint George churches in Aketi. Jumati monastery, 1877-1878 Village aketi is located 20km northeast from Ozur- geti. Saint George church was built in developed middle ages and Our Saviors church was built in and other monastic buildings. The facility was built 1899 in the early Middle Ages, while the frescoes date • Eristavi Palace and garden in Goraberezhouli, from the 16th to 18th centuries. The bell tower with 25km northeast from Ozurgeti, is only remained a square base was built in 1904 and is partially de- secular sightseeing in Guria. The territory consists stroyed today. Jumati Monastery was an important a garden, stone fence, and a palace. It is dated from religious and cultural center of Guria. Here valuable XVII century. icons, relics and documents, some of which also had secular significance, were kept. In the 20th century • Chekhedana (ჩეხედანა), vill. Tskhrapona, Kob- the monastery was robbed several times. Fragments uleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). Chekhedana of several icons from Jumati are now in the Her- church was built in 1609 by Mamia II Gurieli. The mitage at St. Petersburg, the Louvre in Paris and building was completely destroyed, then rebuilt in the Metropolitan Museum in New York. Beautiful the 1990s. Free of charge. (updated Dec 2015) views of Guria and Samegrelo lowlands and Black • Mamukas Castle (მამუკას ციხე), vill. Alam- Sea can be seen from the hill. (updated Jul 2015) bari, (from Kobuleti). 18th- century castle, which was owned by Mamuka Tavd- • Likhauri fortress and Likhauri church church giridze, was destroyed in 1959 because of earth- (ლიხაურის ციხე და ეკლესია). These are in the quake. Only its south wall is still standing. Free of village of Likhauri, 5 km south offrom Ozurgeti. charge. (updated Dec 2015) The church is in the center of the village, while the • fortress is to the west, on the hill. St. Mary’s Church Khino (ხინოწმინდა), vill. Khino, Kobuleti Mu- of Lichauri was built in the 12th century of carved nicipality (from Kobuleti). Khino Cathedral was one stone. It has a free-standing bell tower. The fortress among three Eparchial Centers of Guria. Nowadays was built in the 12th century, allegedly by Queen the village lies in Kintrishi Reserve. Free of charge. Tamar, so it is also called the Fortress of Tamar. (updated Dec 2015) (updated Jul 2015) • Konchkati Church and Castle (კონჭკათის ეკლესია და კატისციხე). (updated Dec 2015) • Church of Achi (აჭის ეკლესია). Early medieval period. In the same village there is a one-nave hall church from the 13th-14th century. It has beautiful 34.5 Do and well-preserved frescoes. (updated Jul 2015) 34.5.1 Activities • Askana fortress (ასკანის ციხე). With six-meter- high stone walls built in the 4th century. It is located • Enjoy the views from Ekadia Church. 24/7. This in the village of Mtispiri, 16 km southeast of Ozur- newly-built (as of 2015) Orthodox church is located geti (updated Jul 2015) on the hill in southern part of the town, where a Medieval Orthodox church used to stand. Excellent views of the town can be seen from there. free of • Vashnari (ვაშნარი). Historic city consists of re- charge. mains of a basilica, a monastery and civic buildings dating back to the 4th century and is located near the • Cycle around the town there are no bike rentals. village of Gurianta, 6km west of Ozurgeti. (updated Bikes are sold in “Univermagi” for 250-300 GEL Jul 2015) (USD 100-125). 120 CHAPTER 34. OZURGETI

34.5.3 Sports

Despite Georgia’s failure to score a major success since independence, football (soccer) remain the most popu- lar sport in the country, and Ozurgeti as well. The town has two major sports clubs - Mertskhali (the swallow), which has the home ground Megobroba (friendship) and Rugby club Piralebi (robbers), which has the home ground Zvani field. Sports Season in Georgia lasts from September to May. view of Ozurgeti • Sports Palace (სპორტის სასახლე). 10 AM- 10PM. Championships in some sports like Volley- • Swim in the rivers. If you are brave enough, swim- ball, Handball, indoor Hokey are being held here. ming in the river Bzhuzhi in the southern part of the Posters are available in the building facade. free of town during hot summer days makes you feel local. charge. (updated Jul 2015)

• Fish in the small rivers such as Bzhizhi, • Chess club (საჭადრაკო კლუბი). 10 AM-2PM. Ochkhamura, Achi and Natanebi. Chess and Checkers can be played here for free. Sometimes championships in chess are being held too. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) 34.5.2 Festivals and performances Chess, Checkers, backgammon, also domino and card • Ozurgeti Dramatic Theatre (ოზურგეთის games are very common for Ozurgtei. You can find peo- დრამატული თეატრი), #1 Chavchavadze Str, ☎ ple sitting in yards and playing games. Feel free to join +995 496273373. Nowadays the theater is only them, just avoid gambling. one working institution. The theatre hosts not only plays, but some concerts and performances as well. Information about upcoming events is available 34.6 Buy in front of the building on the information board. GEL 3-5.

• Alegro a city festival dates back from XIX century. Allegro takes place in the center of the town in early autumn, September or October

• Giorgi Salukvadze Ethnographic Festival, in which the neighboring countries (Turkey, Ukraine, Turkmenistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan) participate, Is being held in the summertime

Ozurgeti market

There are two supermarkets in Ozurgeti: “Chemi Mar- keti” (My Market) in the large shopping center on Guria Street and Moderni on Ekvtime Takaishvili Street. Lo- cally made bread and pastry, named “Vasadze’s Bread” can be found on Gabriel Episkoposi Str., below the church. Tee and Coffee House is near it.

• “Bazari” (ბაზარი), Guria Str. everyday, 8-16. An open-air market - among other things there are sold Sports Palace Fruits, vegetables, clothing, meat, cheese. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) 34.7. EAT 121

• “Univermag” (უნივერმაღი), G, Chanturia Str.. 34.7.1 Cafes everyday 9-18. Old Soviet department store where is today Chinese rubbish mostly sold. (updated Jul • “Khachapuris Sakhli” (Khachapuri House) 2015) (ხაჭაპურის სახლი), #2 Chavchavadze Str. Cafe where Georgian national khachapuri and pizzas are sold. (updated Jul 2015) • Biblusi (ბიბლუსი), 9th April Park, ☎ +995 593100391, e-mail: [email protected]. every- day 9-18. a small book shop (updated Jul 2015) • Lelango (ლელანგო), Str. Cafe is owned by Georgian Orthodox church. It has its own bakery and take-away service, inside and outside • Nikora (ნიკორა), #2 Gabriel Episkoposi Str, ☎ seats. (updated Jul 2015) +995 595305933. A reasonably well-stocked super- market chain (updated Jul 2015) • Tiramisu (ტირამისუ), #2 Chavchavadze Str. Cafe and cake shop. (updated Jul 2015) 34.6.1 ATMs • Rendez Vous (რანდე ვუ), Ioane Petritsi Str. Cafe and cake shop, French cuisine. (updated Jul 2015) • Bank of Georgia • • Bank of Georgia Rvas + 1 (რვას+1), #3a Gabriel Episkoposi Str, ☎ +995557602183, e-mail: [email protected]. 10AM-6 PM. Serves • TBC Bank only non-alcoholic beverages, pies and pancakes, has internet and library, is adapted for disabled • Liberty Bank people.

• VTB Bank 34.7.2 Restaurants • ProCredit Bank • Natakhtari (ნატახტარი), Chavchavadze Str, ☎ 790324355. Georgian cuisine, beer on tap. (up- 34.7 Eat dated Jul 2015) • Kalakuri (ქალაქური), #2 Gabriel Episkoposi Str. everyday 10 AM-10 PM. An Asiatic restaurant, with live music at evenings. (updated Jul 2015)

• Tonus (ტონუსი), #25 Akaki Tsereteli Str, ☎ +995 496 276035, +995 496 273833, fax: +995 496 276035, e-mail: [email protected]. every- day 9-23. Slightly away from the center, restaurant Tonusi has its own brewery. The building is a jewel of Soviet industrial architecture. Beer on tap is sold outside, also. (updated Jul 2015)

• Gurge (გურჯი), #25 Gabriel Episkoposi Str, ☎ +995 591239320. Restaurants interior is covered with old items, wooden furniture and photographs Restaurant “Gur.ge” from the 19th century depicting life in Ozurgeti. (updated Jul 2015)

Eating in Ozurgeti is very cheap. Prices per person may • Pirosmani (ფიროსმანი), Guramishvili Str. be vary from 5 to 10 USD. Do not buy wine in restau- Restaurant with Georgian cuisine. (updated Jul rants, its better to buy wine in a shop and take it in restau- 2015) rant. The best choices are Corn bread, cheese, cucumber and tomato salad, eggplant with nuts, barbecue, kebab, • Piralebi (ფირალები), Apolon Tsuladze Str. Tra- Khachapuri, Beef with potatoes (Ojakhuri), fried chicken ditional Gurian style restaurant, Georgian cuisine. in garlic (Shkmeruli). (updated Jul 2015) 122 CHAPTER 34. OZURGETI

• Gurulebis Ezo (გურულების ეზო), #8 Guria Str, • Guesthouse, ☎ +995 496273499. GEL 30-40 per ☎ +995 555327724. 10AM-00AM. You will find night, breakfast included. (updated Jul 2015) here a pleasant and warm atmosphere and delicious Georgian cuisine, specifically Gurian dishes. The • Guesthouse, Dimitri Eristavi Str, ☎ +995 restaurant offers delivery service and its own park- 496275411. GEL 30-40 per night, breakfast in- ing place. $. (updated Sep 2015) cluded. (updated Jul 2015)

• Guesthouse, Gagma Dvabzu, ☎ +995 599787516. 34.8 Drink Very nice Guesthouse with rural activities is located outside of town, in village Dvabzu. GEL 30-40 per If you get invited in someones house, your host may night, breakfast included. (updated Jul 2015) also offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously potent vodka distilled from grapes. 34.10 Talk • Wine House (ღვინის სახლი), Bolkvadze Str. A well-stocked wine shop is located opposite the train See also: Georgian phrasebook station. (updated Jul 2015)

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- • TRAP lounge (ტრეპ ლაუნჯი), #4 gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995 551703001, e-mail: understand them. The older generation speaks Russian [email protected]. 11 Am- 01 PM. Break- fluently, and Armenian as well. The younger generation fast, lunch, dinner, coffee and drinks. Payments now studies English. Almost every school in Ozurgeti with Visa, American Express, MasterCard and has a native English-speaking teacher. There are some cash. Take away service. (updated Jul 2015) US and European volunteers who speak English as well. • Background Bar (ბექგრაუნდ ბარი), #4 When in need for help, look for younger people; they are Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995599719991, e-mail: more likely to know some English. [email protected]. 10AM-01AM. Bar Restaurant in the middle of Ozurgeti. Here you can explore nice music, staff and comfortable 34.11 Learn atmosphere. High speed WiFi is included (updated Sep 2015) There are no universities in the town. Only one techni- cal school operates. Wide range of driving schools is in Ozurgeti. It seems easyer to get driver’s license in Ozur- 34.9 Sleep geti then in other towns in Georgia.

There is only one hotel in Ozurgeti and some Guest- houses. Guesthouses are good opten for budget travelers. 34.12 Work They are clean, safe and cheap and give opportunity, to meet local people. A wide range of accommodation are Working time in Ozurgeti starts at 09:00 or 10:00 and available in the beach resort towns Ureki and Kobuleti, end at 16:00–18:00. Locals like to take an hour lunch where, however, many businesses are closed during win- break and enjoy their food while socializing with their ter. co-workers. Approaches to punctuality used to be very relaxed. Summer (late July-August) and January are • SAM (სემი), #25 Guramishvili Str, ☎ +995 months when people take two weeks or a whole month off 496261126, e-mail: [email protected]. Newly work to enjoy vacationing with family. A local wage in opened, as of 2015, this is the only hotel in Ozur- Ozurgeti will typically be around 300–400 GEL a month, geti. 60-70 GEL per night. (updated Jul 2015) with only a small section of public servants making in the range of 800–1000 GEL a month. • Guesthouse, Dimitri Bakradze Str, ☎ +995 Foreigners working in Ozurgeti are employed as volun- 593154345. GEL 30-40 per night, breakfast in- teers. There are volunteers from the US Peace Corps cluded. (updated Jul 2015) and EVS (European Volunteering Service) volunteers from Poland, Germany, and Lithuania. These volunteers • Guesthouse, #55a David Aghmashenebeli Str, ☎ mostly work for the NGOs Young Pedagogues Union, +995 496275411. GEL 30-40 per night, breakfast Guria Youth Resource Center and Student Youth Coun- included. (updated Jul 2015) cil. 34.16. COPE 123

34.13 Connect 34.16 Cope

Free wireless internet is avilable in the Platanus garden There is no Tourist Office or travel agency in Ozurgeti. and Culture and Resort Park, free internet is avialable Nearest tourist offices are available in Ureki and Kobuleti, in Public Service Hall, also. but only during summer.

• USAID Center for Civic Engagement • Public Service Hall (იუსტიციის სახლი), #9 (დემოკრატიული ჩართულობის ცენტრი), #14 Petritsi Str. Mo-Fr 09 AM - 18 PM. (updated Jul Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995 598538571, e-mail: 2015) [email protected]. Everyday, except sunday, 10 Am - 7 PM. Free Internet, desktop • Town Hall (ქალაქის მერია), #1 Kostava Str, ☎ computers, wireless Internet, skype and headsets. +995 496274740. Mo-Fr 09 AM - 18 PM. (updated Free of charge. (updated Jul 2015) Jul 2015)

• Internet Cafe, #4 Rustaveli Str. Windows XP, slow connection, skype, webcams and headsets GEL 34.17 Go next 1 per hour. (updated Jul 2015)

• Internet Cafe, #2 Chavchavadze Str. Windows 34.17.1 In Guria XP, skype, webcams and headsets GEL 1 per hour. (updated Jul 2015) There are plenty of buses and minibuses to neighbor- ing villages (generally 0.5 GEL to 2 GEL). Buses and • Georgian Post Service Center (საქართველოს minibuses leave from central bus station in the south part ფოსტა), #2 Gogebashvili Str. The Postal Code of of the town, or from the station on Aghmashenebeli Str, Ozurgeti is 3500. GEL 1 per hour. (updated Jul near big roundabout. The best destination may include 2015) villages and rural tourism There are 3 GSM operators of mobile phone service: Magticom, Geocell and Beeline. Their offices are near • Shemokmedi each other on the Chavchavadze Str. • Likhauri • Aketi 34.14 Stay safe • Mtispiri Ozurgeti is very safe for travelers. the crime rate is among Mountain resorts the lowest in Europe. Most of the streets are illuminated at night. Police cars patrol the streets in the town and can • help with any problem. Call 112 in any case of emergency Bakhmaro (only in summer) (police, ambulance, fire). • Gomismta (only in summer)

• Police (პოლიცია), #3 Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995 • Nasakirali 496275342. (updated Jul 2015) • Nabeghlavi

34.15 Stay healthy beach resorts (only in summer) • Ureki Tap water is good for drinking in Ozurgeti. Ozurgeti has one of the best tap water among Georgia’s cities. • Grigoleti You will find many gym in the Sports Palace, on the • Shekvetili second floor. Monthly ticket costs GEl 50 and covers 12 visit to the gym. You can work out in Park of Culture and Resort, where open-air training equipment is available. 34.17.2 Other regions

Modernized Hospital hospital is located on the “Seri” Outside of the Guria region, popular destinations may in- hill and is seen from the town center. clude Kobuleti and Batumi. There are plenty minibuses, There are four pharmacies open 24/7, in front of they leave in every hour from 8 AM to 5 PM to Batumi. “Bazari”, GPC, PSP, Impex and Aversi. Travel to Batumi costs 5 GEL, to Kobuleti - 3 GEL. Chapter 35

Sarpi

Turkish side, since the toilets on the Georgian side are free of charge.

35.3 Get around

35.4 See

35.5 Do

It’s odd for a major international border crossing to have a nice beach, but Sarpi’s pebble beach and clear water are Berlin architects, J. Mayer H., have gone wild with the 2011 Georgian customs terminal. nice indeed. Despite the Turkish trucks lined up to cross over to Hopa, the setting is picturesque, with the beach and border crossing occupying a narrow strip of land be- Sarpi is a Georgian village on the Black sea in fore the topography of the village shoots directly upwards Southwestern Georgia right on the border with Turkey. across jungle-covered green cliffs. Whether a swim here is your first or your last experience during your travels in Georgia, it’s likely to be a memorable one. Swimming 35.1 Understand across the border would certainly not be appreciated by the border guards, though… Nothing much, apart from the border crossing between Turkey and Georgia. Coming from Turkey one re-enters Europe, as evidenced by the Orthodox church just behind 35.6 Buy the border juxtaposing the mosque on the Turkish side. The border is open 24/7. 35.7 Eat

35.2 Get in The main eatery right by the border post and the beach is heralded by a lot of yellow umbrellas over plastic tables. 35.2.1 Border crossing from Turkey It’s a modest eatery and probably not the best introduction to Georgian cuisine, but some quick roadside food after a dip in the crystal waters of the Black Sea is likely to be Coming from Turkey exchange some money at the bank enjoyable regardless of the quality. inside the Georgian customs terminal, before the immi- gration check. Note that they charge a commission of about 5% higher than what is obtainable at street stalls in Batumi, whereas the exchange booths by the bus stop 35.8 Drink outside charge a 10-12% higher commission. There’s no point in buying anything in the duty-free shop With the oldest evidence of wine making having been dis- within the Turkish building as Georgian street prices are covered just up the road, it’s hardly surprising that wine lower. Similarly, don't go for the (non-free) toilets on the takes precedence over beer, Chacha, or any other form of

124 35.10. GO NEXT 125

• Batumi since the regular city bus (line 101) is GEL1 to Batumi. Buy a ticket from the driver and punch it in the yellow box. (As of 2014, the 101 does not seem to go until the border.) Bus 16 links the bor- der to Batumi’s city centre (GEL1 too). To go to Batumi's train station, transfer to line 101.

If you are coming from Turkey, say your farewells to the dolmuş culture and say hello to the wonderful world of post-Soviet Lada taxis. A ride up to Batumi, where you can connect with the national transport system, should not cost any more than GEL15-20.

• Gonio fortress is on the road to Batumi.

Sarpi beach

alcohol. Be prepared to drink at least one glass since a re- fusal might offend or brand you as a Muslim undesirable. Georgians don’t usually sip - they slurp - although they are always patient enough to wait until each traditional toast has been orated.

35.9 Sleep

Options are scarce if you are looking for accommodation within Sarpi itself, although if you make friends with a local you are likely to receive sincere offers of generous hospitality at their own house. There are good options just up the coast though — ask around after you've already left the customs office behind.

35.10 Go next

• Turkey: buses to Trabzon, taking 3-4h, stop at all places en route and run almost every hour and cost around TRY10 (Oct 2013).

The next stop to the south is the small town of Hopa (pop- ulation 15,000) in Turkey. A ride on a dolmuş (shared taxi) should cost certainly no more than 5-10 Turkish lira. The Turkish taxi drivers won't speak Russian, if that’s how you have been getting around, so brush up on either your Georgian or Turkish numbers and get ready for a lot of bargaining in Turkey! Chapter 36

Shemokmedi

Shemokmedi (შემოქმედი) is a village in the Guria re- 36.3 See gion, 6 km southeast from region capital Ozurgeti. The village is known for its old monastery.

Shemokmedi monastery View from Shemokmedi monastery • Shemokmedi Cathedral (შემოქმედის საკათედრო ტაძარი). This 12th-to-16th-century monastery is located on the hill in the eponymous 36.1 Get in village of Shemoqmedi, about 7 km southeast of Ozurgeti. The monastery complex consists of two 36.1.1 By train church buildings and a bell tower from the 16th century. The main church, a three-aisled basilica Nearest train Station is in Ozurgeti without cupola, was built in the 12th century. The walls are built of hewn stone, the floor is covered with marble. The second, smaller church called 36.1.2 By bus “zarzma” was built in the 16th century by the prince of Guria Vakhtang I. Gurieli as home to an icon of the Transfiguration of the Lord. In the There are several departures from Ozurgeti. Middle Ages, the monastery was one of the richest monasteries in Georgia. In the monastery there were several relics, such as very valuable icons, 36.1.3 By car stored. Great views of Guria’s villages can be seen from the hill. (updated Jul 2015) Shemokmedi is connected to Ozurgeti with well- developed regional road. Route from Ozurgeti to Shemokmedi • Gorisferdi church (გორისფერდის ეკლესია). A newly built orthodox church instead of medieval church (updated Jul 2015) 36.2 Get around • Stone Wine-press (ქვის საწნახელი). A massive, stone-carved winepress is located near Gonebiskari, You can easily walk or cycle in Shemokmedi. in “Meskhiseul estate”. Length of winepress is 6

126 36.5. BUY 127

• Satavani (სათავანი). go further away from Bzhuzhi HPP and about 10 km away you will find a waterfall (updated Aug 2015)

36.5 Buy

You can by very good homemade Vodka from local in village Gomi, 2 km away from Shemokmedi.

36.6 Talk

Gorisferdi See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- meters, width - 120 cm, depth - 90 cm. (updated gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un- Jul 2015) derstand them. When in need for help, look for younger people; they are more likely to know some English. • Philipp Makharadze Former museum (ფილიპე მახარაძის ყოფილი სახლ-მუზეუმი). Now the mu- seum of Bolshevik Philipp Makharadze is closed, 36.7 Go next but partly demolished XIX century house and an arc from 1950s can be seen (updated Jul 2015) • Ozurgeti • Bzhuzhi HPP (ბჟუჟჰესი). Soviet time HPP, built • Dvabzu in 1950s is worth of visit (updated Aug 2015) • Likhauri • Chala-Sakdari (ჭალა-საყდარი). Ruins of me- dieval belltower (updated Aug 2015)

36.4 Do

Gomismta

• Visit Gomismta, mountain resort above of Shemokmedi, 2000 meters high from sea level

• Chakukha (ჩაქუხა). is very popular place to swim, sunbath and enjoy life during hot summer. (updated Aug 2015) Chapter 37

Ureki

Ureki (ურეკი) is a coastal town in Georgia, in Guria re- gion.

37.1 Understand

Ureki is a popular beach town on the Black Sea coast. Ureki is famous for its black, slightly magnetic sand, which allegedly has healing properties, while in contrast, most beach resorts of Georgia are made of crushed stone or gravel. North from Ureki is located Grigoleti, and south from it is located Shekvetili . Both of them are coastal sandy Ureki Railway Station resorts like Ureki, but they are more quiet and relaxing, while in Ureki is more traffic, crowd and nightlife. Sumer season (July-September) is the best time to visit. 37.2.3 By car The settlement is located a few kilometers from the sea. On the beach itself there is the coastal settlement that is Ureki lies on the highway, which connects Batumi with called “Magnetiti” (მაგნეტიtი) due to magnetic sand. A Poti and Kutaisi. Ureki is approximately 10 kilometers few kilometers north of Ureki is the village Supsa with the north of Kobuleti and 15 km south of Poti on the highway. major oil terminal at the end point of the pipeline from The turnoff to Magnetiti is well signposted at the station. Baku. Grigoleti is connected to Samtredia with another high- way. Ureki is connected to Ozurgeti with well-developed regional road. 37.2 Get in 37.3 Get around 37.2.1 By train Ureki is easily covered on foot or bike. You will need Ureki has a newly refurbished train station between good bike or taxi to go to Grigoleti or Shekvetili. Batumi and Tbilisi railroad. Ureki is also connected to re- gions capital Ozurgeti by the railroad. Tickets from both cities can be bought at stations and online. The train sta- tion is about 1.5 km from the beach. 37.4 See

• Kolkheti national Park and Paliastomi Lake, north 37.2.2 By bus from Ureki and Grigoleti • Ruins of Jikhanjiri fortress in the village with You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Ozurgeti or same name Kobuleti. Buses going on the Tbilisi-Batumi route will stop at Ureki also. In summer Marschrutkas leave from • Vashnari (ვაშნარი). Historic city consists of re- the main square in Magnetiti to several destinations. Oth- mains of a basilica, a monastery and civic buildings erwise, you can stop passing minibuses on the highway. dating back to the 4th century and is located near

128 37.6. BUY 129

• Climb a caves in the villages Chochkhati, Oragve, Khoreti, Kokati, Moedani. You have to reach vil- lage Chochkhati at first. • Visit Guria Park, so called “Tsitsinatela” — large Amusement Center • Fishing in the small rivers

37.6 Buy

in Ureki there are wide range of stores where you can stock up on drinks and snacks. During summer season you will find Well stocked “Nikora” market chain. Dur- Paliastomi forest ing summer you can get the usual beach equipment from China: slippers, towels, air mattresses, inflatable rubber the village of Gurianta, 21km southeast from Ureki animals, and even paddle boats are available. On the train station. (updated Jul 2015) beach itself Boiled maize, cold water, coffee from the thermos and ice cream from homemade cooling wearing • Chekhedana (ჩეხედანა), vill. Tskhrapona, Kob- and cigarettes are sold. uleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). Chekhedana church was built in 1609 by Mamia II Gurieli. The building was completely destroyed, then rebuilt in 37.7 Eat the 1990s. Free of charge. (updated Dec 2015)

• Mamukas Castle (მამუკას ციხე), vill. Alam- There are a lot of restaurants in Ureki, near the beach and bari, Kobuleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). 18th- near the train Station. In the resort along the main street, century castle, which was owned by Mamuka Tavd- there are some restaurants and cafes of different price giridze, was destroyed in 1959 because of earth- ranges and fast food establishments. It should be noted quake. Only its south wall is still standing. Free of that most catering establishments are only open during charge. (updated Dec 2015) the bathing season. • Khino (ხინოწმინდა), vill. Khino, Kobuleti Mu- Do not pass fresh fish, which is served in restaurants in nicipality (from Kobuleti). Khino Cathedral was one Tskatsminda: right by the road, near the Ureki train sta- among three Eparchial Centers of Guria. Nowadays tion. Among the restaurants in the Ureki town center. the village lies in Kintrishi Reserve. Free of charge. Prices in Ureki are higher then in other villages or towns (updated Dec 2015) of Guria and may vary from 15 to 25 GEL per person. • Konchkati Church and Castle (კონჭკათის • Palermo (პალერმო). (updated Aug 2015) ეკლესია და კატისციხე). (updated Dec 2015)

37.8 Drink 37.5 Do inside Ureki you will find a lot of restaurants and cafes. • Swimming. On the beach you can swim well in the Try Georgian wine, beer and vodka. sea. However, the water is shallow and only falls gently, so you have to have a few hundred yards to wade out until you can no longer stand. Further- more, it is advisable to lie on the beach and com- 37.9 Sleep pletely dig into the magnetic healing sand (maybe it helps, but at least it does not hurt) or build sandcas- In Ureki you will find a wide range of sleeping op- tles. You can borrow umbrellas and chairs. in addi- tions, from Hotels, to small apartments. In Grigoleti and tion you can do some other water activities such as Shekvetili is more common, to take whole cottage for jet skiing, kite surfing and water slides. The swim- some period. ming season begins in May and lasts until the end of September. In high season (July / August) the place is crowded. 37.10 Talk nearby See also: Georgian phrasebook 130 CHAPTER 37. UREKI

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor- gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to understand them. Service staff in this area know Rus- sian and a bit of Turkish. English is common in this area, too.

37.11 Stay safe

You should not leave your valuables unattended on the beach - this invitation is readily accepted by thieves. There are lifeguards at the beach.

37.12 Cope

• Tourist Office, near the train station, e-mail: [email protected]. Tuesday to Sunday 10-19 clock. (updated Aug 2015)

37.13 Go next

• Ozurgeti

• Lanchkhuti • Kobuleti

• Batumi Chapter 38

Northwestern Georgia

If you are looking for the region of the US state, 38.4 Understand see Northwest Georgia. Northwestern Georgia is a very diverse region, which, Northwestern Georgia is a region of Georgia. due to its many languages, cultures, and even govern- ments, can feel like several different countries. The Svans of Svaneti and the of Samegrelo are Christian, Georgian sub-ethnic groups who have cultures 38.1 Regions and languages distinct from, but closely related to Geor- gian. The Abkhaz, however, are a completely unrelated • Samegrelo — home of the Mingrelians and birth- South Caucasian people, who for much of their history place of independent Georgia’s turbulent and enig- were predominantly Muslim, until the Russian Empire’s matic first president, Zviad Gamsakhurdia “Muhajarism” practice in the 19th century of mass de- portation of Muslim Caucasian peoples, which cleansed • Svaneti — Georgia’s most mysterious mountain re- the region of nearly all non-Orthodox Abkhaz. gion is like a fairy tale come to life The climate of Northwestern Georgia ranges from sub- tropical to high alpine, and is one of Georgia’s greenest, lushest, and wettest regions. 38.2 Cities Since Georgian independence in 1991, Northwestern Georgia has been a hotbed of complicated political vi- • Kala olence and conflict. The first , Zviad Gamsakhurdia, was an ethnic Mingrelian with ties to • Lentekhi Samegrelo. His presidency was intensely controversial within and without Georgia and sparked a civil war, which • Melle quickly resulted in a murky coup d'etat in late 1991. Con- flict between pro-Gamsakhurdia and anti-Gamsakhurdia • Mestia — the “capital” of Svaneti and a UNESCO forces continued as a new separatist conflict exploded in World Heritage site Abkhazia in 1992. The Abkhaz military, fighting along- side paramilitaries from the North Caucasus (and possi- • Poti — a fairly uninteresting port city, albeit one bly with help from the Russian government) defeated the with interesting ancient history; headquarters of the Georgian military in September 1993, allowing the Abk- Georgian Navy. Also serves as an entrance point to haz government to establish de facto independence. In Kolheti National Park. an even more strange and convoluted twist, Gamsakhur- dia then returned to Georgia from Chechnya in late 1993, • Soli set up a government-in-exile in Zugdidi, and began a full scale civil war with the central government, relying on • Ushguli — perhaps the most picturesque Svan vil- the support of Samegrelo and Abkhazia. Gamsakhurdia’s lage, at the bottom of Georgia’s highest mountain, war was very successful and his forces routed the Geor- Ushba gian military and threatened the capital. But the resulting instability threatened Russian interests and the Russian • Zugdidi — the capital of Samegrelo government sent its military to the aid of the central gov- ernment, resulting in a quick defeat for Gamsakhurdia’s forces, the firm establishment of Georgia’s Shevardnadze 38.3 Other destinations government, and the mysterious death of Gamsakhurdia himself. But Northwestern Georgia never really accepted

131 132 CHAPTER 38. NORTHWESTERN GEORGIA the Shevardnadze victory, leaving the Samegrelo region 38.10 Eat in particular a turbulent, volatile center of unrest. More- over, the wide-scale ethnic cleansing of Abkhazia’s ethnic The food differs from region to region within North- Georgians led to continued low-intensity warfare between western Georgia, but its Mingrelian cuisine is perhaps its Mingrelian paramilitaries and the Abkhaz military. most famous, which is notably spicier than most Georgian The most powerful force shaping the region today is the food, and is just generally delicious. protracted separatist conflict between Abkhazia and the Georgian central government. The current situation is more or less a stalemate. Georgia’s president has vowed 38.11 Drink to reintegrate Abkhazia into Georgia, but only by peace- ful means. The Abkhaz government demands nothing less than full de jure independence from Georgia. And 38.12 Stay safe the ever important Russian government, which still has peace-keeping troops in the region, gives tacit support to Northwestern Georgia is, generally speaking, not a safe its Abkhaz client government while trying to avoid re- travel destination. The Abkhazia conflict has destabilized newed regional conflict. parts of the region. Samegrelo has become notably less volatile since the Rose Revolution, as the Mingrelians are far less hostile to the new president than the last; more- over, the new government has taken steps to disarm the 38.5 Talk somewhat brigandish Mingrelian guerrilla groups, who were made up mostly of refugees from Abkhazia and had Although the Georgian languages of Mingrelian in been fighting against the Abkhaz government. Samegrelo and Svan in Svaneti are widespread, Georgian Svaneti is a different security story altogether. While is the main language in the region, but much of the older Svaneti has been largely untouched by the simmering eth- generation speak Russian as a second or a third language nic conflict to its west, it remains a rather dangerous des- and the younger generation is increasingly speaking En- tination simply because it always has been. The Svans glish due to hostility towards Russia, and also because are renowned for being an aggressive and insular group English is taught in schools since independence and has who, while loyal to the Georgian central government, can replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation- be tricky folks to deal with for outsiders. On the other wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, hand, if accepted as a guest of a Svan, the Svans are also as they are more likely to know some English. Speaking renowned for their legendary, limitless hospitality. Do Russian is recommended in areas where non-Georgian not let security concerns stop you from visiting Svaneti— minorities live. it is far too wonderful a travel destination to miss. But do seriously consider traveling there with a guide or local Svan. 38.6 Get in 38.13 Go next Marshrutkas head to Zugdidi and on to Abkhazia from the bus stations in Batumi and Kutaisi, and Tbilisi. Poti • From Svaneti, there is a lonely and poor quality is the easiest destination to get to, and is widely served by mountain road leading east to the beautiful and safer public transport. Marshrutkas also make the long, steep mountain region of Racha climb from Kutaisi and Tbilisi to the Svan capital, Mestia.

38.7 Get around

38.8 See

38.8.1 Itineraries

38.9 Do

• Trekking in Upper Svaneti Chapter 39

Samegrelo

Samegrelo is a region in Northwestern Georgia. - Shurubumu caves - Lugela waterfalls). Including pic- nic and museum tickets. This tour price for 2-3 people is 200 GEL. If there are more people price is 50 GEL per 39.1 Regions person.

39.2 Cities 39.7.3 Chkhorotskhu region Chakvindji fortress - Lebarde resort with mineral waters • Poti (near Chkhorotskhu). This tour price for 2-3 people is 150 GEL. Including picnic If there are more people price • Zugdidi is 40 GEL per person.

39.3 Other destinations 39.7.4 Kvatsantsara (Eng. Dancing rock)

Intsira ravine - Kvatsantsalia (huge shaking rock), 14 km 39.4 Understand of hiking through the forest and valleys. This tour price is around 250 GEL. Including picnic and guide. 39.5 Talk 39.7.5 Anaklia-Ganmukhuri

39.6 Get in Black sea cost villages nearby Zugdidi (34 km). During last few years these villages became fancy touristic re- 39.7 Get around sorts. There were built some high class hotels, pubs and casino. It’s a good place to enjoy Black sea. Anaklia place is continuing as Ganmukhuri place, which is located on 39.7.1 To open Samegrel the Abkhazian border.

Day trip “To open Samegrelo” (Nokalakevi arkheoplis (fortress Tsikhegodgi) - Chkondidi (Residence of the 39.7.6 Kheta fortress - Monastery of head of Orthodox church, unique monastery,center of Khobi - Nodjikhevi royal land X cen. (near ) - Gachedili (it’s in Martvili, place of waterfalls, where you could swim, and Kheta fortress - Monastery of Khobi - Nodjikhevi (arche- dinosaurs steps)- Dadiani summer palace in Salkhino ological place with old fortress and traditional Georgian (near Martvili). Including picnic and museum tickets. village atmosphere) near Khamiskuri. This tour price for This tour price for 2-3 people is 200 GEL. If there are 2-3 people is 100 GEL. If there are more people price is more people price is 50 GEL per person. 30 GEL per person. Including picnic.

39.7.2 Wild nature 39.7.7 Tobavarchkhili (Eng. Silver lake)

Day trip “Wild nature” (Skuri caves and mineral water Tobavarchkhili lake is located 2500m above sea level. springs - Mukhuri caves in the middle of the wild Geor- It is located on south slopes of Egrisi ridge. Lake To- gian woods with moss rocks and river (swimming place) bavarchkhili as well as other nearby lakes is unknown for

133 134 CHAPTER 39. SAMEGRELO most people, but who has ever seen it he only knows how 39.7.12 Get to know Zugdidi beautiful it is. Some few people have been there due to a hard way. You can visit this wonderful place only from Zugdidi (Museum Dadiani, Botanical garden, boulevard, the end of July till the September, cause in any other time bazaar) for free. pouring rains and thick fogs make this just impossible. All these tours are organized by “Zugdidi Hostel” team, for more details you could contact them via email: zug- 39.7.8 Enguri hydroelectric plant [email protected] or by phone +995 591654036.

The Inguri hydroelectric power station (HES) is a cascade of hydroelectric facilities including, in addition to the dam 39.8 See - diversion installation of the Inguri HES proper. The dam located on the Georgian side in Upper Svaneti. It 39.8.1 Itineraries is beautiful place with wide panorama of mountains and blue lake. 39.9 Do

39.7.9 Rukhi fortress - Lia fortress - “Dida Kirsa” archeological place 39.10 Eat Rukhi fortress - Lia fortress - “Dida Kirsa” archeological 39.11 Drink place with nice site seeing panorama - Enguri HES (one of the biggest hydroelectric station in the world, and the biggest ark of the HES, near by waterfalls and huge water 39.12 Stay safe reservoir. This tour price for 2-3 people is 150 GEL. If there are more people price is 40 GEL per person. In- cluding picnic. 39.13 Go next

39.7.10 Traditional village life - Tsaishi

Tsaishi (hot mineral sierra springs, where you could take a bath or swim. Museum of Iona Meunargia, Geor- gian poet and well known public person, Old Tsaishi Church, picnic on the mountain Urta with amazing view to the Great Caucasus chain) - Djegeta mountain with old church and impressive nature. This tour price for 2-3 people is 150 GEL. If there are more people price is 40 GEL per person. Including picnic. Another possibility here - Tsaishi (hot mineral sierra springs, where you take a bath or swim. Museum of Iona Meunargia, Georgian poet and well known public person, Old Tsaishi Church, picnic on the mountain Urta with amazing view to the Great Caucasus chain) - Papantskhvili (lake in mountains where according the legend local priest house with his family drowned. Old Soviet villa of politicians). This tour price for 2-3 people is 150 GEL. If there are more people price is 40 GEL per person. Including picnic.

39.7.11 Discover of Mountain Urta

Mountain Urta with more than 200 caves and waterfalls, mountainous rivers. This tour price is around 250 GEL. Including picnic and professional guide. Another possi- bility here- Urta mountain - Pokori river with waterfalls where you could swim. This tour price for 2-3 people is 110 GEL. If there are more people price is 30 GEL per person. Including picnic. Chapter 40

Poti

Poti is a port city in Samegrelo. The main reason to visit range between €140 and €320 depending on class. The Poti is nearby Kolheti National Park with its wetlands and service from Burgas via Novorossiysk with Intershipping bird life. is currently suspended. There are also twice weekly ferries from Sochi to Batumi. A single journey costs 4,000 RUB. 40.1 Get in

40.1.1 By plane 40.2 Get around

The airport in Poti has been closed since the collapse of the Soviet Union; however the government is plan- 40.3 See ning to resume service by 2012. Currently Batumi In- ternational Airport is the closest airport, with flights from • Palm Boulevard Baku, Istanbul, Kiev, Moscow and Tel Aviv amongst oth- ers. However, the number one gateway to Georgia is still • Chapel via Tbilisi, not too far away. • Poti Free Industrial Zone

40.1.2 By train • Temple of Saint Nickolaus

Train services are quite good: Georgian Railways pro- vides two daily trains from the capital, Tbilisi, taking 5½ 40.3.1 Further afield hours. • Kolheti National Park (S 4 km. There are marshrutkas running from the city to the National 40.1.3 By bus Park’s ). Excellent spot for bird watch- ing. It includes east coast line of Black Sea and Buses are plentiful from nearby Batumi; the journey time Lake Paliastomi basin. Visitors center can help or- is just about one hour. ganize boat tours on Lake Paliastomi and river Pi- chori gorge. 40.1.4 By car 40.4 Do European road E70, which starts in , has its end- point here. From Tbilisi, take the M27 road westwards and then turn off to A305 just outside the city of Senaki. 40.5 Buy A305 continues further to Batumi, so travel from there is straightforward. 40.6 Eat 40.1.5 By boat 40.7 Drink Poti is a port city, meaning that there are several fer- ries arriving here from across the Black Sea. UKRFerry offers a service from Varna via Ilyichevsk just outside 40.8 Sleep Odessa. Departures are once or twice a week, and prices

135 136 CHAPTER 40. POTI

40.9 Connect

40.10 Go next Chapter 41

Zugdidi

Zugdidi (Georgian: ზუგდიდი) is a city in the Samegrelo 41.8 Sleep region of Georgia. There are a few hotels and one hostel in this town.

41.1 Understand • Zugdidi Hostel (10-15 min walk from city cen- tre, bus/train station), ☎ +995 591654036, e-mail: While Zugdidi is not a very popular city with tourists for [email protected]. This is a place where itself, many pass through it on their way up to Mestia in people get together, party and have a good time, Svaneti. It does have a few things to see, though, and is storytelling and Georgian wine tasting. Soft beds, located near a national park. a vineyard, cozy old Asian atmosphere and funny staff; tips on travelling, tours of the region and maps are also available. Hostel: 15-25 GEL, bed in dorm: 41.2 Get in 20 GEL, bed in single/double room: 25 GEL.

Trains run to Tbilisi and all stops on the way. Night trains are also available, and are the most popular way to get 41.9 Connect from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, since the marshrutkas to Mestia are coordinated with them (see Go next section). Arrival It can be hard to find Wi-Fi access in town, except in a in Zugdidi is at 6:25 (as of 2014). Marshrutkas and buses few cafés. are also available to most major cities in Georgia. 41.10 Go next 41.3 Get around • Mestia. Marshrutki to Mestia wait in front of the train station. The price is currently 20 Lari (March 41.4 See 2015). Note that these marshrutki will only go if there are enough passengers. Therefore expect • Dadiani Museum (500m beyond the north end of some hours of waiting in the worst case. Duration: Zviad Gamsakhurdia). Every day except Monday, 4 hours. An alternative is a shared minivan (also 10:00–17:00. The Dadiani family’s palace 2 GEL. called marshrutka by the locals). They start at a fixed time in the Gulua street at the crossing with the Dutu Megreli street. (Go from the train station to the main 41.5 Do road (Rustaveli street), turn left and follow it towards the city, just before the bridge turn left and go in the Gulua street about 200 meters, there should be a sign 41.6 Buy on the right side at a kiosk.)

• There is a 24/7 small supermarket just at the crossroad Kutaisi: at least one marshrutka per day. with the road to Mestia.

41.7 Eat

137 Chapter 42

Svaneti

Beautiful Svaneti in the Greater Caucasus The towers of Mestia

Svaneti is a high mountain region in Northwestern Geor- gia, home of the fierce and chivalric Svans. An extraor- dinary and surreal land of towers, snow, craggy peaks, wine, and dancing; where gold was fleeced, where time has not merely stopped, but rather simply never existed. The entire region is a UNESCO world heritage site.

42.1 Regions

• Lower Svaneti

• Upper Svaneti Ushguli, at the base of Mount Shkhara

• Ushguli — perhaps the most picturesque Svan vil- 42.2 Cities lage, at the bottom of Georgia’s highest mountain, Shkhara • Mestia — the Svan capital

• Mazeri — a stunningly beautiful mountain vil- 42.3 Other destinations lage. The starting point for Svaneti Mount Ushba trekking. 42.4 Understand • Kala • Lentekhi 42.5 Talk • Melle Knowledge of Georgian is widespread, but the main lan- • Soli guage spoken here is another offering from the same fam-

138 42.8. SEE 139 ily, the unwritten . Russian speakers can 4 Day Svaneti Trek (Mestia to Ushguli) probably get by in most villages, where at least one per- son around should be conversational in the language. There is a red and white flagged trail from Mestia to English is spoken by a few young people and a few guest- Ushguli. The tourist office and several shops in house owners speak basic English. Basic tourism vocab- Mestia offer maps of the route, but these are not always ulary is widely understood in Mestia, the regional capital. very clear. Better maps may be available in good travel bookshops abroad. Route can also be walked in opposite direction, beginning in Ushguli. Try to start hiking early, 42.6 Get in especially in summer, since it gets very hot around 11am and some parts of the route offer little shade. Bringing 42.6.1 By plane a tent gives you much more flexibility, but guesthouses are available in each of the villages along the route. One As of August 2013, there are no flights to Mestia. night plus dinner and breakfast costs around 40GEL per person; they can also give you some food for lunch. Day 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi 7.5 hours, partially along the 42.6.2 By car road. The route is well marked going out of Mestia. When the airport is on your left, a sign on a rock will The main road leading into the region comes from Kutaisi tell you to take a path uphill. The marks then lead to a through Zugdidi. You can catch a marshrutka going here stream, where you will have to cross a fence that is also from Tbilisi, which will take a full 12 hours to reach marked. The route goes uphill and then descends into a Mestia. Due to the construction of a new road between valley, following a sledge road. You pass two small vil- Zugdidi and Mestia, the largest town in the region, trans- lages and will then follow the river to Zhabeshi, where port times have massively decreased. there is a bridge leading into the village. Day 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi 8 hours, greatest vertical dis- 42.6.3 By train tance along the route. There are spectacular views from ridge down into both valleys. Follow the stream that runs Night trains (8 hrs) between Zugdidi and Tbilisi are co- through Zhabeshi uphill, take the path right just before ordinated with early morning (7-8 am) marshrutka de- the end of the village. Keep following the path past farms. partures (15 GEL) from Zugdidi to Mestia, which take You need to cross the hill that is on your left, but the path a bit over three hours. Booking in advance for the train here is very poorly marked. There is a ridge leading uphill recommended. which is not too steep and can be followed all the way up- hill. When you reach the top, you should see a road that was still being built in August 2014. Go left on this road 42.7 Get around until it takes several hairpin turns steeply uphill, where there is a path to the right of the road. This leads you straight to Adishi through some beautiful meadows. The There is some very basic and inconvenient marshrutka hill after Zabeshi is the easiest section to get lost, so you service from town to town, but it’s generally easier to hire may wish to consider hiring a guide. a taxi to get from point A to B. Day 3: Adishi to Iprali 8 hours. The first part follows Hiking from town to town is also very much possible, and the Adishi river, which you have to cross at some points. considerably more exciting, There is a flagged path from The water comes straight from the glacier so is ice-cold, Mestia to Ushguli passing through several villages, the but the water level differs along the river and also changes tourist information in Mestia can give additional infor- from day to day. You may want to rent a horse in Adishi to mation as well as some very detailed hiking maps. cross (50GEL), or if you have good hiking sandals and are in a group you could cross on foot. Otherwise, the path on this day is easy to follow: after the river you zigzag 42.8 See up for a while, through rhododendron bushes. Amazing views of the Adishi and Khalde glaciers at the top. The In addition to the breathtaking ancient villages of Svaneti path then descends down into the valley, and will lead you filled with imposing stone watchtowers, there are some to Iprali where there are several guesthouses. spectacular mountain vistas of Europe's highest moun- Day 4: Iprali to Ushguli 4 hours along the jeep track tains. Look especially for Mount Ushba and Mount that all transport from Mestia to Ushguli follows, along Shkhara. a river. It is possible to arrange a jeep or mashrutka back to Mestia from Ushguli. Costs vary between GEL 150- 42.8.1 Itineraries 200, so if you can find a large group of people to fit into a minibus, the cost per person may be affordable. There 140 CHAPTER 42. SVANETI are no regular mashrutkas from Ushguli to Mestia, al- The religious feast of Kvirikoba (28 July, in Kala) is the though you may be able to get a ride from one that is best time to visit. Since a lot of people are in the area, you taking people on a day tour from Mestia (these cost 30 can feel pretty safe in traveling here independently (al- GEL round-trip). though it may be difficult to find accommodations). And It is possible to continue trekking into Lower Svaneti food at feasts in this part of the world is good! from Ushguli to Chvelpi, but it becomes a lot harder as the paths are unmarked and in poor condition, and it is inadvisable to attempt this in poor weather conditions. 42.10 Eat

Svaneti trekking routes from Mazeri village

Several most exciting Svaneti trekking routes begins in Mazeri village in Becho community. Among them:

• Mount Ushba trekking route • Mazeri(Becho) - Guli pass - Koruldi lakes - Mestia trek • Mazeri(Becho) - Baki pass - Etseri trek

The peak of Mount Shkhara 42.9 Do

• Kubdari are a local delicacy from this region. These are khachapuri made with spiced mince meat.

42.11 Drink

The local wines are actually made of grapes from the Racha region, but any place is a good place to drink them! A traditional Svan dance, in Tbilisi The best local wines are red, Barakoni and Khvanchkara. The latter was allegedly Stalin’s favorite. The culture of Svaneti is intriguing, offering some of Georgia’s most solemn and mysterious dances, and the most complex polyphonic singing in the Caucasus—a tra- dition dating back over two millennia. There are abso- 42.12 Sleep lutely no regular performances of any kind, and there are no performance venues besides the open air under the There are several homestay and guesthouse options in and Greater Caucasus, or perhaps in someone’s modest home. around Mestia and Ushguli. The Tourist information in You are more likely to experience Svan performances in Mestia has a list of families in other villages (especially Tbilisi, but a really great guide may set something up with between Mestia and Ushguli) which offer a homestay - the help of local friends. speaking Georgian or Russian might be an advantage, but The obvious thing to do, in addition to sightseeing, is is not necessary. Georgian - or Russian speaking people trekking and mountain climbing in the Greater Cauca- won't have any problem to find a place to sleep by asking sus. The Shkhara and Ushba climbs are both techni- people in the villages for an opportunity. Most homestays cally challenging, and have very dangerous weather. Only ask 30 Lari (2008, about 25 US Dollars) for one night experienced mountaineers should attempt the climbs. with dinner and breakfast - it may be negotiable. There Mountain inclined dilettantes should instead consider a are guesthouses in Mazeri, Mestia, Zhabeshi, Adishi, guided climb of Mount Kazbeg, in Georgia’s Kartli re- Iprali and Ushguli, open during the summer season June gion. There are several flagged trails, especially around until September, catering to eco tourists and hikers. Mestia, the tourist information in Mestia can give you additional information. The thing to do is basically to • Village Adishi Guesthouse (Asking anyone in just wander out of your guest house, pick a direction that Adishi for Elizabeth Kaldani will get you there), ☎ looks promising, and get trekking! +995 595 13 51 87. Family run guesthouse run by 42.14. GO NEXT 141

fluent English and Russian speaking woman. Fan- tastic meals. Possibility to arrange horse rental for river crossing. GEL 20 for room, GEL 40-50 for room and board (2 meals).

42.13 Stay safe

Mount Ushba

Never truly subdued by any foolhardy invader, even the Soviets failed to subdue the fierce Svan mountain tribes who inhabit these high mountain fortress-villages. Geor- gians themselves claim to be a little afraid of the natives here. The security situation improved somewhat after Saakashvili came to power. Travelling to Svaneti is not a big safety risk anymore and is possible for backpackers. However, common security precautions should be taken.

42.14 Go next

There are two mountain roads exiting the Svaneti region, one of which is serviced by daily Marshrutkas to Zugdidi for GEL 20. The second road runs from Ushguli di- rectly to Kutaisi but is in very bad shape and requires you arrange a private vehicle. Daily flights are available from Mestia to Tbilisi for GEL 75, weather permitting. For the more adventurous, however, there is a very poor quality mountain road leading east to Oni in the beau- tiful region of Racha. If you are a hardy trekker, and know what you are doing, you could also head into upper Racha by foot, over mountains. There are routes heading North into Russia's North Caucasus and into Abkhazia, but this should not be attempted. Both borders are for- mally closed (although enforcement is impossible), and if caught by the Georgians or the Russians, you will find yourself in trouble and alone in a strange and often cruel land. Chapter 43

Mazeri

Mazeri is a mountain village in Upper Svaneti, Georgia. 43.4 Do

• Trekking 43.1 Understand • Biking • Horseriding Mazeri is the most famous village in Becho Commu- nity, Upper Svaneti. • Skiing It is situated about 20 km from Mestia in an amazing valley of Dolra river, 1600 metres above sea, and sur- rounded by wide green meadows and snow-capped moun- 43.5 Svaneti trekking routes from tain peaks. Mazeri now is the base for several most Mazeri (Mount Ushba) beautiful Svaneti trekking routes. Once upon a time this land was a possession of the princes 43.5.1 Mazeri - Mount Ushba glacier Dadeshkeliani, there was a 10-storey tower that the own- ers blew up in 1921. The ruins can still be found near the trekking village. • Dolra river, waterfalls, views of peaks of Ushba and Tourism in Svaneti probably began to develop from Mount Mazeri, glacier. Horseback ride is possible this village. Here, thru Becho pass, many tourists and for a fist part of the route. climbers arrived, as this pass is the most convenient for • altitude start/end: 1600/2700m; duration: 8-9 hours the transition from Russia to Svaneti. Besides, a lot of by foot; length: 8,5km climbers who come to conquer Ushba stayed in Becho.

43.5.2 Mazeri - Baki pass - Etseri trekking 43.2 Get in • possible by foot or horseback Currently there is no public transport going directly to • length: 15 km; duration: 6-8 hours; altitude Mazeri. The closest public transport path is Zugdidi - start/end: 1700/1450m; highest point: 2460m Mestia main road. If you go by Marshrutka from Zugdidi you should get off about 16 km before Mestia, near turn to Becho (Mazeri). From this point to Mazeri is about 7 43.5.3 Mazeri - Guli pass - Koruldi lakes - km. You can walk this distance in 1-1,5 hours, or some- Mestia trekking body from your guesthouse can pick up you here. Also it is always possible to hitchhike. • possible by foot or horseback • length: 16 km; duration: 8 hours; altitude start/end: 1600/1420m; highest point: 2960m 43.3 See

Besides the unforgettable landscapes and beautiful val- 43.6 Eat ley Shikhra, Becho is famous for its numerous mineral springs. There are several large waterfalls around the vil- Staying in one of Mazeri village guesthouses is a good lage. Also you can see a ruins of the Princes Dadeshke- opportunity to try traditional Svanetian food, cooked with liani castle, old church and ancient Svaneti Tower. fresh natural local eco products.

142 43.10. GO NEXT 143

43.7 Drink

Clean and natural mineral water from a healing mineral water springs.

43.8 Sleep

You can stay at the several homestays and family guest houses offering accommodation and full board meals for reasonable money. There is one hotel with high quality service but the price considerably higher than in guesthouses. A good option for backpack travellers is Peak Mazeri guesthouse, located in a renovated old Svan house, standing on a great green glade. They have their own horses and mineral water spring near the house. Also it is possible to put up a tent in the guesthouse camping zone.

• Grand Hotel Ushba, Tvebishi, Mestias rajoni, Svaneti, Georgia.

• Peak Mazeri Guest House (A family mini ho- tel in Svaneti Mestia region - Peak Mazeri Guest House), Mestia district, Mazeri, Becho commu- nity, Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti, Georgia, e-mail: [email protected]. Amazing location just at the foot of Mount Ushba. Nice mountain view rooms and tasty food. Horseback riding. Free pickup by our car. You can start Ushba trekking here.

43.9 Connect

43.10 Go next Chapter 44

Mestia

Mestia is a city in Upper Svaneti, Georgia. on activities in Mestia including high-quality hiking maps.

44.1 Understand • Mountain Tourist Centre of Svaneti, Pereulok Stalina No. 7 (200 m from the main square in Mes- tia).

44.2 Get in

44.2.1 By plane

Queen Tamar Airport. Mestia’s airport opened in 2010.

• Mestia In the summertime a plane flown by the Georgian military will give you a ride between Kutaisi and Mestia is the regional capital of Svaneti. It is also the Mestia. The plane only operates on “perfect” days. main centre of tourism for the region. It is a relatively This is a very fun experience! The cost is free to the small town of around 2.600 inhabitants, but it is the main locals, or ~$15 USD for foreigners. It will take off service centre for the Svaneti region and as such has from a grassy field in Mestia, and land in Kutaisi in many of the characteristics of larger cities. It is a very less than an hour! This will reduce travel time to the tourist-friendly town, in part due to several major con- capital by about 6-8 hours! The plane flies on Satur- struction activities including a new road (a twisty but well- days and leaves Kutaisi at 9:00. (This is a 2010 info maintained mountain road), a renovated town centre with and possibly no longer valid). a number of new buildings, and a new airport. There has also been a lot of investment in other infrastructure, such • During 2014 and continuing to 2015 there are heav- as a new district court, giving Mestia the feeling of a city ily subsidized flights from Tbilisi to Mestia for 65 rather than the rural towns it is. This has made traveling GEL one way from Natakhtari Airfield. Flights to Mestia much easier, but the main street has lost part of from Natakhtari to Mestia and back are operated by its former character. This said, exploring the streets just air company Serviceair, by air plane LET 410-UVP. behind the main street immediately brings you to very ru- Flights are on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. ral areas with cows, pigs and chickens everywhere. From Natakhtari to Mestia at 11:00 and from Mestia The town is very easy to navigate. It is made up of three to Natakhtari at 13:00. The registration time is one villages following the Mulkhra River, with a single main hour before the flight. Flight duration is one hour. street lying through the entire town. Most guest houses, Price includes free transfer from Tbilisi (metro sta- hotels and restaurants are along this main street. tion Rustaveli, near fountain at 9:20 pickup) and back — from Natakhtari to Tbilisi also. Reserva- tions are available at Vanilla Sky agency, ☎ +995 44.1.1 Tourist Centre 32 242 7427, +995 599 65 90 99 (Mob), e-mail: [email protected]. . Its office moved from the old • Tourist Information Centre, Seti Square (the main city centre to further toward the suburbs at 5 Vazha- square in Mestia). Part of the country-wide network Pshavela Avenue, Tbilisi, close to Metro Medical of tourist information centres. Provides information University station.

144 44.3. GET AROUND 145

Important: There is a high demand for Megreli street. (Go from the train station to the main tickets so reserve tickets long in advance. road (Rustaveli street), turn left and follow it towards For example, by the end of July 2015 the the city, just before the bridge turn left and go in the only tickets from Mestia to Tbilisi were Gulua street about 200 meters, there should be a sign for the end of August. To make a reser- on the right side at a kiosk.) vation from Mestia to Tbilisi, call the Mestia airport: 598510895. If no tick- From Mestia, one marshrutka leaves towards Zugdidi ev- ets are available, ask to be on the waiting eryday at 5:00. Sometimes (but only sometimes!), other list. From June 2015 on flight times were marshrutkas leave at 6:00, 7:00M, and even 8:00 during 10:00 and 12:00 respectively. the high season (but probably not later than that). Later, you need to use a private taxi. Travel time is 2 - 2.5 hours. Note: Flights are dependent on weather conditions in the There are also marshrutkas from Mestia to Kutaisi (not mountains between Mestia and Tbilisi. As the weather regular) and Tbilisi (daily). changes quickly, it is difficult to plan a flight to or from Mestia with absolute certainty and it might be a good idea As of August 2015, it appears that the only public op- to have a plan B in case the flights are cancelled. tion to leave Mestia to Zugdidi or Tbilisi is at 08:00 a.m. daily (according to several guesthouses and the tourism office). Seats can be reserved by your guesthouse, price 44.2.2 By helicopter to Zugdidi is 20 Lari. The bus stops at the train station in Zugdidi, connections to Poti, Batumi and other cities are There is also an option to fly to Mestia from Tbilisi by he- available. licopter. The duration of the flight is 1.5 hours. There are a few companies organizing these flights. Unfortunately, these organizations suspended flights for the fall of 2014 44.2.5 By car due to various reasons, however, there are chances the flights will be started again in early 2015. A new highway from Zugdidi to Mestia has been opened and the trip has become relatively safe and comfortable by public or private transport. The view on the way is amaz- 44.2.3 By train ing. The usual driving time is about 2 hours, although it can be longer in winter following snow falls, or when From Tbilisi, take the 21:10 night train reaching Zugdidi the road is covered with ice. Whatever the season, it is at 6:25. From outside Zugdidi station, take a marshrutka not advised to drive yourself unless you are used to such to Mestia. Marshrutka ticket price: 15 Lari (Georgian) mountain roads. Drive with high attention if you are not / 20 Lari (foreigners). Duration: about 4 hours + an un- an experienced driver. predictable waiting time in Zugdidi (up to 7 or 8 hours) if you don't arrive with the overnight train. Mestia – Tbilisi can be driven in about 6.5 hrs. Trains can be full (especially private cabins), so book sev- eral days in advance. 44.3 Get around

44.2.4 By bus The city is small enough to be covered by foot. Bus station.

• From Tbilisi marshrutki (mini buses) go every day 44.4 See from the “Vagzali” bus station. Number of seats 16, ticket price 30 Lari per person. Departure • Svaneti Historical-Ethnographic Museum. As- time: 5:00. Duration 8-10 hours (depending on the tonishingly extensive museum which has one of the weather conditions). oldest New Testament manuscripts in Georgian on display. Recently renovated, the museum is now • From Zugdidi marshrutki to Mestia wait in front equipped with modern display cases and has exten- of the train station. The price is currently 20 Lari sive written descriptions of exhibits in English. Ad- (March 2015). Note that these marshrutki will only mission is 5 Lari. go if there are enough passengers. Therefore expect some hours of waiting in the worst case. Duration: • House and Museum of the world-famous alpin- 4 hours. An alternative is a shared minivan (also ist Mikhail Khergiani. Part of the tour includes called marshrutka by the locals). They start at a fixed going inside the Svan tower which Khergiani used time in the Gulua street at the crossing with the Dutu as his training gym. Admission free. 146 CHAPTER 44. MESTIA

• Ski lift (8km of Mestia. It’s possible to walk there Tetnuldi following uphill asphalt road, altitude difference is 400m. Or get a taxi for 30 GEL, including 2 hrs of (This information applies to the winter season 15/16 and waiting time and a ride back). Year round, 10:30– will change next season.) At this time, Tetnuldi resort 18:00. It leads to the top of a mountain and offers is still under construction. Only one of three projected splendid view. There is a restaurant on top. 5 GEL lifts is in operation and there is only one very easy slope return. finished. Usage of the lift is free. At the lift, there is no ski rental, so if you need ski, you need to rent in Mestia. There is a government bus from Mestia central square at • Stone defensive towers. A typical fortified dwelling 11 am, which is also free, it returns when the lift closes, consisted of a tower, an adjacent house and some around 5 pm. other household structures encircled by a defensive wall. Hatsvali • Churches of 10th–14th centuries, including Mazhari, Trongsa and some others. This ski resort features a single lift and also a single slope (there is a short beginners lift as well). The slope is more difficult than Tetnuldi’s. The ski pass is 5 GEL for locals • Mineral springs. and between 20 and 25 GEL for foreigners, so you should ask a local, e.g. your taxi driver, to purchase the pass for you. Ski rental is available at the lift, though the skis are 44.5 Do quite old and better ones can be had in Mestia. To take a taxi to Hatsvali is 40 GEL at most for a return journey. The driver will take you there, go home and arrive again 44.5.1 Hiking routes at a prearranged time. The cheaper way is to walk in the right direction and hitchhike, especially if you are without • Mountain Ushba is a main attraction, in a good skis. weather conditions you can see it above. You can also get to its base (3.5-4 hrs one way). 44.6 Buy • Walk to the Mountain Ushba glacier, takes around 6 hours, starting from a beautiful mountain village There are Liberty bank branch, two ATMs and one cur- Mazeri. rency exchange office (with just marginally worse rates than elsewhere in Georgia). • 4 Days Mestia to Ushguli Trek • Beautiful works of Folk art can be bought at the Mountain Tourist Centre. • Trip to the cross and Koruldi lakes: The path is very easy to find and follow. From the main square go • There is a small market for fruit, vegetables, drinks 500m east and follow the road which is forking up- and necessity products, as well as a number of shops. hill (just before the bank). Trip time is approx. 2 hours one-way, be concentrated on the way back to avoid detours. You can also continue to the Koruldi 44.7 Eat lakes (2 hours more with some very steep hills to climb). No map needed for this route. Mestia has several restaurants and cafés in town.

• Walk to Chalati Glacier: walk to the airport and fol- low the road. After approx. 2h30min you reach a 44.8 Drink bridge. There’s no border post anymore (as men- tioned in the LP ), but a cafe offers re- freshments. From the bridge it’s a good 1 hour more Of course, as anywhere in Georgia, marvelous Georgian to the glacier. No entrance fee, no map needed for wine and chacha! this route. 44.9 Sleep 44.5.2 Skiing • Hostel Seti, Seti squ. 7 (Right in the center, next to There are two ski resorts close to Mestia. the tourist information center and a restaurant). It’s 44.10. CONNECT 147

newly built. Have air conditioning in the hall and • House of Ketevan Gabliani (Tel. +995 599-56- heater in the room. The room is large. €10 for a 93-58) dorm bed. • House of Malkhaza Argviliani (Tel. +995 599- • Hotel “Mestia”, Zurab Devdariani, 577721211, 25-90-80) 590721211. • House of Irma Khergiani (Tel. +995 598-97-72- • Muradi Chartolani’s Guesthouse, Ushba St. 38) 2, ☎ +995 55 56 19 74, e-mail: Transfer- [email protected]. Guesthouse with TV, garden. $10-20. 44.9.1 Becho village

• Nest Hostel Mestia, Kakhiani st. 16, ☎ +995 • Shalva Kvitsiani’s Ushba Homestay, ☎ +995 599 595 41 44 43, +995 555 52 55 77, e-mail: 73 95 21. Guesthouse with private rooms, hot water [email protected]. Centrally located and meals in picturesque village Becho. Convenient with balcony overlooking river mountains and 'Svan' for a trek or climbing expedition to Ushba. towers holding the sky over Mestia. Friendly, En- glish speaking and very helpful staff. €9-11. • Irine’s Guesthouse (Turn off the Zugdidi-Mestia highway at Becho, then follow the main road in Be- • Nino Ratiani’s Guesthouse, 1 Queen Tamari cho for 2.5 km; the guesthouse is on the left.), ☎ +995 Street Akhalsheni, ☎ +995 99 18 35 55, +995 90 52 591 810 242. Irine Japaridze operates a friendly, 78 18, e-mail: [email protected]. Guesthouse welcoming guest house in Becho, open year-round, with private and single rooms, free wifi internet, hot which is located near a roaring river, in a beauti- water and wonderful Georgian meals. Very com- ful yard with a garden and fruit trees. There are fortable beds. New building with additional guest- great views of Ushba, one of the tallest mountains in rooms. Calling ahead for vacancy is advisable dur- the Caucasus, and you can walk to a nearby spring ing summer. Putting up a tent may be possible for which has naturally carbonated water. The food is 5GEL per person. Warm and friendly owners who outstanding, cooked in the flavorful Svan style, and speak English. Additional services and airport pick much of it comes fresh from the garden. Becho is ups, meal requests, cooking lessons, etc. can be ar- a peaceful and quiet village even during the peak of ranged. 80 GEL for two persons including two very the tourist season. The rooms are comfortable and extensive meals per day (April 2014). $20-25 per there is hot water. Day trips to Mestia, Ushguli, and person (including three meals). other areas in Svaneti are easy, and Irine can arrange transportation. Bring warm clothes: the bathroom • Nino Tstulukiani’s Guesthouse, Guladi is in another building, and nights in Svaneti can be Japarise Street no 8, ☎ +595 58 98 39, e-mail: chilly. GEL 40 per person, including breakfast and [email protected] [email protected], dinner, add GEL 5 if you want lunch. Pitch your tent [email protected]. Nice family run guesthouse in the yard and use the bathroom/shower for GEL 15 with spacious rooms, shared sitting room and per person, add meals for GEL 5 per meal. bathroom with hot water. The owner is an excellent cook. Currently (summer 2011) the family is building a hotel, located next to the guesthouse. • Guesthouse Svaneti Peak-Mazeri (owners pick- GEL 30 per person (includes dinner and breakfast). up from the main road), e-mail: info@hotel-svaneti- mestia.com. Great location under Mt. Ushba, with • Roza Guetshouse, 17 Vittorio Sella Str. (About gardens and meadows around, home-made natural 200 meters on the left just when entering Mes- traditional food. Horse-riding tours, trekking to wa- tia.), ☎ +995 599641455, +995 598309919, e-mail: terfalls and Ushba glacier, and mountain river fishing [email protected]. Very nice guest house are available. Families, backpackers and climbers above Mestia. Free Wi-Fi, hot water, nicely warmed are all welcome. in winter, and delicious Georgian food. Also, the view from the living room may be one of the most beautiful views on Mestia. Booking possible on 44.10 Connect booking.com, or by email. From 15 to 40 Lari per person (depending on season and options). Not much Wi-Fi access, but several cafés, restaurants and Several people rent rooms in their houses as well: guesthouses offer free and decent Wi-Fi. Geocell and Beeline both have quite decent signal in the • House of Elguji Jorjoliani area. 148 CHAPTER 44. MESTIA

44.11 Go next

• Mazeri - Svaneti mountain village, surrounded by a stunningly beautiful landscapes and huge water- falls. The starting point for a several exciting Svaneti trekking routes, including Mount Ushba glacier trek. • Mestia is also the embarkation point for a trip to Ushguli, the highest altitude inhabited point in Eu- rope. There is another small Ethnographic Museum there, containing 12th century religious artwork.

• To get a more authentic experience, also consider visiting nearby villages such as Lenjeri (many Svan towers), Latali (old and beautiful churches), and Becho (mountain hiking). Chapter 45

Ushguli

or for a few days. The cost will be 200 GEL for a day trip, and a bit higher if you stay a while longer. There are also some local drivers that gather several tourists and do the tour spiting the costs (in this case the price per person will be 35 GEL), but it’s available not everyday, just ask around in Mestia. The trip from Mestia takes about 2.5 hours one way despite being less than 70km in distance due to the poor quality of the road.

45.2.1 On foot

It is also possible to hike from Mestia in 3-4 days which Ushguli towers is a great way to see Svaneti for the able-bodied.

45.3 Get around

Once in the villages, you can walk between them all very easily. get around Ushguli.

45.4 See

• Typical Svanetian protective towers are found throughout the village. • Ushguli Chapel (On a hilltop near the village). It Ushguli dates back to the 12th century. Ushguli is a community of four villages in Svaneti next to the foot of Shkhara, one of the highest Caucasian sum- mits. The Ushguli villages contain buildings that are part 45.5 Do of the UNESCO heritage site of Upper Svaneti. • A visit to the Ethnography museum is well worth the GEL 5-6 that the local children will ask for ad- 45.1 Understand mission. Housed in a preserved Svan house, the mu- seum contains artifacts ranging in age from the long history of the Svaneti regions. The local children 45.2 Get in will provide rehearsed description of the artifacts in passable English.

Transportation into Ushguli is very limited. There is a • The Georgian wartime treasury. Placed in the road from Kutaisi that is serviced by private vehicles. “most inaccessible part of Georgia” the count- Otherwise a trip from Mestia is the easiest way to see less national treasures were held in the Ushguli Ushguli. A private vehicle can take you up for a day trip, monastery during periods of conflict.

149 150 CHAPTER 45. USHGULI

• Go to Enguri to Shkhara

45.6 Buy

45.7 Eat

There are a few restaurants in the villages serving tradi- tional Georgian and Svan home cooking, catering to the increasing numbers of tourists. You could also get food from your guest house.

45.8 Drink

45.9 Sleep

Ask anyone in the village for a place to sleep or just walk around until you see a sign saying “Guest house” (there are a lot of them). The price will be $20-$30 per night and include all your food.

45.10 Connect

45.11 Go next

• Mazeri - Svaneti mountain village, surrounded by a stunningly beautiful landscapes and huge waterfalls. The starting point for a several exciting Svaneti trekking routes, including Mount Ushba glacier trek. 45.12. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 151

45.12 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

45.12.1 Text

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https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kartli?oldid=2580250 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Globe-trotter, ClausHansen, Travelpleb, The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Addbot, Globetrotter19 and Anonymous: 4 • Gori Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gori?oldid=2893806 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, Stefan2, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Jc8136, AndreCarrotflower, LtPowers, AHeneen, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Cacahuate, ClausHansen, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Skeleton Jack of Salem, (WT-en) WoodyWiki2, (WT-en) Cpopa, (WT-en) Cuttino, (WT-en) Rinsent, (WT-en) Jeronimo, (WT- en) Pott790, WereSpielChequers, Ikan Kekek, The Anome, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Adehertogh, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Zenwort, FTMDave and Anonymous: 33 • Gudauri Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gudauri?oldid=2835750 Contributors: Travelpleb, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Trav- 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USHGULI

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TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 153

• Svaneti Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Svaneti?oldid=2819232 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Stefan2, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Saqib, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Brufnus, (WT-en) Temoomet, Ikan Kekek, Sterio, The Anomebot2, Sergey kudryavtsev, Filelakeshoe, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, SamoaBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Jaqeli and Anonymous: 12 • Mazeri Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mazeri?oldid=2957875 Contributors: Wrh2, Pbsouthwood, Ikan Kekek, Traveler100, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1 • Mestia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mestia?oldid=2947947 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Dguil- laume, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Hippietrail, (WT-en) W., (WT-en) Diana836, (WT-en) Temoomet, (WT-en) Gio213, Ikan Kekek, Sterio, M Blissett, The Anomebot2, Wobuainile, CarsracBot, Filelakeshoe, WOSlinker, Adehertogh, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Ddohler, Kiaora, GatoNeko, Muso, Ilyakogan, Stoni111121 and Anonymous: 24 • Ushguli Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ushguli?oldid=2841220 Contributors: Dguillaume, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, (WT- en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Hippietrail, Sterio, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Addbot, Kiaora, M. and Anonymous: 5

45.12.2 Images • File:081_Tbilissi_de_nuit_Forteresse_de_Narikala.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f3/081_ Tbilissi_de_nuit_Forteresse_de_Narikala.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Moreau.henri • File:Achis_eklesia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/80/Achis_eklesia.jpg License: Public domain Con- tributors: Transferred from ka.wikipedia; transferred to Commons by User:Geagea using CommonsHelper. Original artist: [1]. Original uploader was Surprizi at ka.wikipedia • File:Adjaruli_Khachapuri,_Restaurant_Aragvi.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/Adjaruli_ Khachapuri%2C_Restaurant_Aragvi.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Aragvi Original artist: Sandra C from Canada • File:Air.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7a/Air.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Air Original artist: Paul Hudson from United Kingdom • File:Aketis_Matskhovari.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9c/Aketis_Matskhovari.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: გრიგოლ • File:Akhaltsikhe_Mosque.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2a/Akhaltsikhe_Mosque.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: In the old castle Original artist: Henri Bergius from Helsinki, • File:Ambox_warning_red.svg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Ambox_warning_pn.svg License: Public domain Contributors: This vector image was created with Inkscape. Original artist: penubag • File:Ananuri’{}s_fortress.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/42/Ananuri%27s_fortress.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Fiqriasidamonize • File:Askana_Fortress_old_photograph.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e6/Askana_ Fortress_old_photograph.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: http://aboutguria.blogspot.com/ Original artist: Un- knownwikidata:Q4233718 • File:Askanoba.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Askanoba.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contribu- tors: Own work Original artist: გრიგოლ • File:Bagrati_Cathedral_in_Kutaisi.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/86/Bagrati_Cathedral_in_ Kutaisi.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jptournut/8207226180/ Original artist: Brave Lemming • File:Bakhmaro_Horse_Race.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/66/Bakhmaro_Horse_Race.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Daniel-tbs • File:Bakhvistskali_at_Zotikeli.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/49/Bakhvistskali_at_Zotikeli.jpg Li- cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: M. • File:BatumVelo_on_the_seashore.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/BatumVelo_on_the_seashore. JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Julien Cabardi Original artist: Julien Cabardi • File:Batumi_Airport_2011.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/50/Batumi_Airport_2011.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Андрей Романенко • File:Batumi_Georgia_2012.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/62/Batumi_Georgia_2012.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Jason Rosenberg Original artist: Jason Rosenberg • File:Bugara_Mamaladze_()Khevi_vill.).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8c/Bugara_Mamaladze_ %28%29Khevi_vill.%29.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: M. • File:Central_Caucasus.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/Central_Caucasus.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Travelpleb • File:Chkhakaura.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e5/Chkhakaura.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contrib- utors: Own work Original artist: M. • File:Chokhatauri_-_Cinema.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bf/Chokhatauri_-_Cinema.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Daniel-tbs • File:Church_at_uplistsikhe.JPEG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4f/Church_at_uplistsikhe.JPEG Li- cense: CC BY-SA 2.5 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Peter Fitzgerald 154 CHAPTER 45. USHGULI

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• File:Hpim3433.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/55/Hpim3433.jpg License: Copyrighted free use Con- tributors: http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Asia/Georgia/photo506694.htm Original artist: Marko Petrovic • File:KGB_Still_watching_you.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/08/KGB_Still_watching_you.jpg Li- cense: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Still watching you Original artist: Morten Oddvik from Trondheim, Norway • File:Kazbegi_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c5/Kazbegi_map.png License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Con- tributors: :Image:Kazbegi map.svg Original artist: Peter Fitzgerald, OpenStreetMap [1] • File:Kazbegi_view.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0e/Kazbegi_view.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Peter Fitzgerald • File:Khertvisi_Fortress_walls.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Khertvisi_Fortress_walls.JPG Li- cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: This image has been imported from Shared, the free media repository used by Wikitravel, a free travel guide. 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2.0 Contributors: Sweet Sighnaghi Original artist: Roberto Strauss from Frankfurt am Main, Deutschland 45.12. 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• File:Tavisupleba_square._Monument_of_St._George.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/02/ Tavisupleba_square._Monument_of_St._George.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Tavisupleba square. 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