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Le Mékong, Au Laos

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Le Mékong, Au Laos mardi 17 juillet 2018 aufildel’été… 21 Un pêcheur utilise des pièges en bambou au niveau des chutes de Khone, sur le Mékong, au Laos. Franck Vogel Le Mékong, géant aux multiples visages Phnom Penh (Cambodge) la Birmanie et le Laos, dans la zone De notre correspondante légendaire du Triangle d’or. Il borde ékong, un monde Fleuves partagés (2/4). ensuite la Thaïlande où il devient où l’eau, la terre, Mae Nam Kong, la « mère de toutes et le ciel se mêlent À la fois mode de vie, source de nourriture les eaux », avant de s’enfoncer dans en un ballet chan- les touffeurs de la jungle laotienne. geant. Fleuve de et habitat, le Mékong a, dans le passé, nourri Il traverse enfin le Cambodge et ali- Mcontraste, les tons y oscillent de mente le Tonlé Sap, le plus grand l’ocre des eaux boueuses, au rouge de nombreuses quêtes d’aventure. Aujourd’hui, lac d’eau douce d’Asie, puis il se sanglant de la latérite. Les verts divise en neuf bras principaux au vifs de la végétation luxuriante s’y les six pays traversés peinent à se partager Vietnam où il prend le nom de dégradent sous la brûlure du so- Cuu Long, « neuf dragons ». Là, il leil. Il s’étire à travers six pays, sur les eaux du fleuve, menaçant la sécurité s’apaise enfin ; les maisons en bam- 4 300 kilomètres. Né dans les aus- bou flottent sur ses eaux calmes, les tères plateaux himalayens du Qin- alimentaire des populations. pêcheurs glissent dans leurs frêles ghai à 5 000 mètres d’altitude, il se embarcations, le long de rizières déverse avec fracas dans les monts miroitantes, avant de se jeter dans du Tibet et du Yunnan où il est ap- la mer de Chine. pelé Lancang, « fleuve turbulent ». Le Mékong est à la fois mode de À la moitié de son parcours, il vie, source de nourriture et PPP marque la frontière entre la Chine, Suite page 22. mardi 17 juillet 2018 22 aufildel’été… PPP Suite de la page 21. Une famille travaille dans une rizière près du lac Tonlé Sap, au Cambodge. Franck Vogel habitat d’environ 250 millions de personnes. Joyau de la biodiver- sité, on découvre encore chaque année de nouvelles espèces, mais la région abrite aussi des animaux en voie de disparition : tigres, élé- phants d’Asie, antilopes saolas, pangolins, raies, et dauphins de l’Irrawaddy. Fleuve nourricier, le Mékong compte 1 300 espèces de poissons, dont 800 endémiques. C’est la première zone de pêche en eaux intérieures du monde, ce qui représente près d’un quart des captures mondiales : deux millions de tonnes sont pêchées chaque an- née. Et les nutriments qu’il trans- porte sont essentiels aux cultures rizicoles et maraîchères. Les nutriments que le Mékong transporte sont essentiels aux cultures rizicoles et maraîchères. Comme nul autre, il a vu naître et mourir des civilisations. Dès le royaume du Funan au Ier siècle, les premiers peuples ont dû apprivoi- ser une région alors recouverte de mangroves et d’épaisses forêts. Les ture. Parmi les fleuves de la pénin- gouverneur de Cochinchine confie grandes capitales ont été fondées sule indochinoise, c’est le seul à Mékong en 1866 une mission d’exploration sur ses rives et aujourd’hui encore, avoir son cours inférieur barré par Luang Prabang à Ernest Doudart de Lagrée, brillant Hô Chi Minh-Ville, Phnom Penh, des obstacles limitant les échanges. Qinghai Mékong Vientiane officier de marine, secondé par le CHINE Mer de Vientiane, Luang Prabang, et Nong Les minorités des hautes terres Lhassa Mékong Chine tempétueux commandant Francis Khai lui sont tributaires. La maî- sont donc restées enclavées, se li- LAOS Garnier et le dessinateur Louis De- Thaïlande trise de l’eau a été un élément clé vrant des guerres sanglantes. Des Inde VIETNAM laporte qui deviendra le premier de la fondation de l’empire d’Ang- marchands malaisiens ou chinois directeur du Musée des arts asia- kor, au bord du Tonle Sap, au commercent dans la région, no- CAMBODGE tiques à Paris. C’est le début d’un IXe siècle. Fonctionnant comme un tamment dans les villes maritimes, Birmanie Tonlé Sap combat épique contre le fleuve, L. réservoir, le lac récupère le trop- comme en atteste le plus ancien ré- Phnom Penh Hô Chi torrentiel en saison des pluies puis Golfe du Minh- plein des eaux du Mékong durant cit, le journal du diplomate chinois Thaïlande difficilement navigable durant les la mousson jusqu’à quintupler de Zhou Daguan qui séjourne à la cour Bengale VIET. Ville décrues de la saison sèche. volume, puis en saison sèche, il se d’Angkor en 1296 pendant près Sur leur bateau à vapeur, ils CAMB. Hô Chi Minh- 200 km déverse dans le Mékong, en inver- d’un an. Les premiers occidentaux 500 km Ville (Saïgon) butent sur les rapides de Kratie sant le cours de ses eaux garan- à apercevoir le Mékong sont sans au Cambodge, puis à la frontière tissant profusion de poissons. Ce doute des missionnaires domini- borne The Mekong : Turbulent Past, ration d’Orientalistes. Il atteindra avec le Laos font la rencontre avec phénomène hydrologique unique cains et franciscains. En 1540, le Uncertain Future, (non-traduit en l’ancienne capitale de Luang Pra- les chutes de Khone dans la zone et la création d’un vaste réseau capitaine portugais Antonio de Fa- français). Il obtient le soutien du bang dans le nord Laos à dos d’élé- des 4 000 îles, une muraille de hydraulique de canaux alimentés ria chargé d’installer une enclave à roi Ang Duong. Mouhot remonte phants, où il meurt foudroyé par la 20 mètres de dénivelé qu’ils doi- par des bassins a permis de nour- Danang au Vietnam, explore la ré- le Mékong en direction d’Angkor et malaria. vent longuement contourner. rir son million d’habitants. C’était gion jusqu’au Siam où il espère faire découvre avec émerveillement les Après la fondation de la Cochin- Contraints de se séparer d’équi- alors la cité la plus importante du fortune, et laisse une trace écrite de sentinelles de pierre envahies par la chine en 1862 et du Protectorat pements trop lourds, poursuivant monde. ses aventures. jungle. « Mais quel Michel-Ange de du Cambodge l’année suivante, la leur route pieds nus, rongés par Fleuve sacré, il a aussi nourri la Le XIXe siècle marque un tour- l’Orient a pu concevoir une pareille France veut contrebalancer l’in- des maladies tropicales, ils font spiritualité des peuples qu’il tra- nant décisif dans la découverte du œuvre ? », s’exclame-t-il dans son fluence de son rival britannique qui halte à Luang Prabang où ils se re- verse ; l’hindouisme et le boud- fleuve. En 1861, le naturaliste Henri journal. Il n’est pas le premier oc- progresse vers le sud de la Chine, cueillent sur la tombe de Mouhot, dhisme se sont mêlés à l’animisme Mouhot entreprend un voyage d’ex- cidental à pénétrer Angkor, mais il perçu comme un eldorado com- puis atteignent enfin le Yunnan. autochtone. Pour les Tibétains et ploration, raconté dans l’ouvrage est le premier à donner un tel écho mercial, via la Birmanie, et songe Mais à la suite de la mort de La- Népalais, l’origine du Mékong est de l’historien australien Milton Os- à sa trouvaille qui fascine une géné- au Mékong comme voie d’accès. Le grée, l’équipage est contraint de divine : c’est en fendant en deux revenir au port au bout de deux un immense lac encerclé par du Tibet et la province Le Mékong en dates ans. Garnier ne peut renoncer à une chaîne de montagnes que le repères du Yunnan. Le fleuve forme sa « monomanie du Mékong » et Bouddha a donné la vie aux grands ensuite la frontière entre la 1540. Antonio de Faria, reviendra cinq ans plus tard, fai- fleuves. Pour le peuple Daï du Yun- Le Mékong en chiffres Birmanie et le Laos sur 200 km, premier Européen à découvrir sant toujours cap plus au nord, nan, sa couleur rouge provient des puis rejoint son affluent le Ruak le Mékong. avant d’être décapité lors d’une lessives des robes du Bouddha et Longueur. De 4 300 à 4 900 km. au niveau du Triangle d’or 1861. Henri Mouhot découvre attaque de pirates chinois dans le de ses disciples. Figure mytholo- (aux confins de la Birmanie, Angkor Wat. Tonkin. Auguste Pavie, marin de- gique commune, le serpent géant Le Mékong traverse 6 pays. du Laos, et de la Thaïlande), 1862. Fondation venu télégraphe, puis diplomate, Naga, gardien du fleuve, orne les La Chine, la Birmanie, le Laos, ce qui marque aussi la sépara- de la Cochinchine française marquera lui aussi la région de temples construits le long de son la Thaïlande, le Cambodge tion des haut et bas Mékong. 1863. Protectorat français son empreinte : on lui doit une parcours. Encore aujourd’hui, la et le Vietnam. Il traverse ensuite le Triangle du Cambodge. carte complète de l’Indochine fête des eaux célèbre chaque an- d’Émeraude (aux confins 1866-1868. Commission fran- parcourue sur 36 000 kilomètres. née la fin de la saison des pluies et Il prend sa source dans la pro- du Laos, de la Thaïlande çaise d’exploration du Mékong. Les Français initieront la diplo- la fertilité du fleuve. vince chinoise du Qinghai et du Cambodge), pour enfin 1884. Protectorat français matie des canonnières le long du Le Mékong a exercé une fasci- (dans l’Himalaya), puis il se jeter dans la mer de Chine, du Tonkin et d’Annam.
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