NORFOLK- BEACH COMES TOGETHER, AT LAST

For 16 straight weeks While impressive apart, combined, Take a stroll down one of America’s In the summer of 2020, the destination’s 182 miles of Top 10 favorite boardwalks**, or trace the top-ranked destination in the shoreline, four unique beaches, 20+ the trail of brave souls en route to country* for travelers wasn’t New breweries and distilleries, hundreds of their freedom on the Underground York City, nor Orlando, nor Las Vegas, independent dining experiences, 128 Railroad, watch the walls come alive it was right here in the Old Dominion hotels, dozens of museums, nearly 300 with color, charm, and creativity in the in Norfolk-Virginia Beach. As the bike trails, myriad of shopping options, NEON and ViBe districts, or sample the pandemic’s unprecedented disruption aquarium, and zoo, make for a getaway soul, , spirits and more at the to travel plans the world over began few other markets can match. region’s many eateries; snag a fly ball to become evident, so too did the first- at Harbor Park (home of the Norfolk And while COVID-19 hopefully time-ever pairing of the culture and Tides), or freefall yourself at iFly at begins to wane, this partnership character of Norfolk with the surf and the Beach. Their just launched digital isn’t going anywhere. sand of Virginia Beach into a safe and discount application available at satisfying vacation offering for visitors visitnorfolkvabeach.com makes looking for an escape. saving simple while you experience TOGETHER, NORFOLK AND VIRGINIA everything both cities have to offer. BEACH TRULY HAVE SOMETHING These days, we could all use a little YOU WOULD BE HARD-PRESSED TO FOR EVERYONE! WE ARE UNITED IN togetherness. So bring a friend, bring FIND ANOTHER DESTINATION THAT OUR COMMITMENT TO ENSURING YOUR NEXT VISIT IS A SAFE, the family, or bring your favorite to OFFERS SO MANY COMPLEMENTARY Norfolk-Virginia Beach. ATTRIBUTES IN SUCH CLOSE UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE. PROXIMITY. WE ARE DEFINITELY – Lauren Townsend, Director of BETTER TOGETHER. Marketing, Visit Virginia Beach – Kurt Krause, President and CEO, Visit Norfolk SCENIC DRIVE Winchester FIND Y O U R WANDER

ith more than 3,500 miles of Scenic Byways, Virginia is a mecca for road trippers whose bucket lists include All- WAmerican Roads - we have the , Colonial Parkway and George Washington Parkway - as well as National Scenic Byways, like Skyline Drive and The Journey Through Hallowed Ground.

While these well-known routes are each a worthy destination in their own right, here are a few lesser-known trips to fulfill your wanderlust, or WanderLove, as we call it here in Virginia. ROBERT HARRIS

12 VIRGINIA.ORG 13 Martinsville Martinsville may be best known for its heart-pounding NASCAR Small town races, but even those looking to riverside downshift will find plenty of ways MORE IDEAS: to enjoy this friendly southern town. Thrilling Ride

U.S. Route 58 stretches west to east across southern Virginia, from Cumberland Stay & Play Discover a unique blend of U.S. history, waterfront beauty and maritime Spanning 32 miles across three mountains, Grab a few reads for the road Gap to Virginia Beach, meandering through scenic stretches and picturesque culture as you follow the Rappahannock River from to The the Back of the Dragon’s 400 curves and at Books and Crannies, a cozy epic views are a rider’s dream. This stretch towns, and blending natural beauty with culture and history along the way. independent bookstore in Uptown. River Realm. of Route 16 between Tazewell and Marion is a favorite during fall foliage season, Families will love discovering but you can become a “Dragon Master” exhibits that span from dinosaurs to volcanoes at the Virginia any time of the year, stopping at the new Museum of Natural History. Welcome Center to kick back and swap Fredericksburg stories of the road. The pristine, craftsmen-style Galax Starling Place sleeps up to nine History around every corner (literally). Known as the “Gateway to the guests (and a pet!) right in the Amazing local fare. And did someone Blue Ridge Mountains” - and heart of downtown. say retail therapy? Find it all in quaint “Sip” back and relax on the outdoor home to the largest Old Fiddler’s Hit the Road. Hop back on Route Fredericksburg, just an hour south pavilion while taking in vineyard Convention - this Southwest 58 east, stopping in Danville to of D.C. views at Good Luck Cellars. Virginia town teems with culture stretch your legs on the Riverwalk Trail and fill up on tacos at Mucho and charm. And with convenient Stay & Play Just a half-block from Main Street, Taqueria. access to outdoor fun, it’s the Plan a few stops along the Trail to the Kilmarnock Inn is your home perfect stop on your road trip. Freedom, which traces the routes of away from home, with Victorian more than 10,000 freedom seekers beauty, a serene courtyard and a that passed through the area by mid- deck made for friends. Stay & Play September 1862. Discover the region’s rich music heritage at one of the Blue Ridge Enjoy an al fresco meal at Brock’s Hit the Road. Continue along Music Center’s many live, outdoor Riverside Grill, where the patio Route 3 east, taking the bridge across performances. overlooks the Rappahannock River. the Rappahannock River to the Middle Peninsula. Grab a waterside Hike, bike or even ride horseback Wander along Caroline Street, lunch at Merroir, an “ tasting along the 57-mile New River Trail, exploring art galleries, dozens of room” known for their crab cakes which ambles alongside the New boutique shops and some of the best and , sourced fresh from the River. With a gentle grade, ample Chesapeake Bay. THE CROOKED ROAD: BRIAN CAMP / KILMARNOCK INN: SARAH HAUSER SARAH INN: KILMARNOCK / CAMP BRIAN ROAD: CROOKED THE dining in the area. shade and plenty of opportunities GALLERIA ON THE LAKE to dip your toes, this rail-trail can Clarkesville be enjoyed by all. Deltaville Fancy Gap Cabins and Campground Bounded by the Chesapeake Bay, boasts a giant LOVE mural, as well Clarksville as a respite for every traveler - from the Rappahannock River and the cabins and motel rooms to sites for Located on Buggs Island Lake (aka: Piankatank River - and boasting RVs and tents. Kerr Reservoir), “Virginia’s only more than 25 marinas - the “Boating lakeside town” offers both a quaint KILMARNOCK INN Capital of the Chesapeake Bay” is Hit the Road. Head east on Kilmarnock Route 58 toward Martinsville, with downtown and access to the best the perfect launch pad for maritime a pit stop in Meadows of Dan to of the area’s outdoor recreation, adventure. snag some sweet treats - and a from fishing and watersports to candy-themed LOVE picture - at shoreline trails. Stay & Play Nancy’s Candy Co. Hit the Road. Head Kilmarnock Get out on the water with a boat SCENIC DRIVE: MICHAEL SPEED / GALLERIA ON THE LAKE: RYAN TRAPP south on Route 17 Stay & Play The Northern Neck’s commercial charter or pontoon rental from toward Virginia's River Norton Yachts. New to sailing? Their Stretch your legs with a stroll Realm, stopping at hub, this charming town will greet sailing school will show you the SCENIC DRIVE along Virginia Avenue to browse MORE IDEAS: NN Burger to satiate you with a beautifully renovated Grayson County ropes! local artwork, home decor and a Musical Journey your hunger and your selection of gourmet foods and Main Street that houses boutique Instagram feed with Explore from land at Holly Point wines. drool-worthy burgers shops and local restaurants, with Explore Southwest Virginia’s role in the evolution nods to the region’s history. Nature Park, meandering along their and the state’s largest waterfront trail dotted with wildlife Enjoy a meal - and stay the night - of Bluegrass and Traditional Mountain Music LOVE mural. From sculptures and benches to stop and at Cooper’s Landing Inn & Traveler’s along The Crooked Road: Virginia’s Heritage there, cross the river Stay & Play take it all in. Tavern, a historic home renovated Music Trail. Running from Franklin County on Route 360 east Go on a scavenger hunt for the into a beautiful restaurant and inn. (yes, the “Moonshine Capital of the World”) to connect to Route iconic boots of Watermen’s Way, The Deltaville Maritime Museum is a all the way to Breaks on the 3 east through the a public art project honoring the must-visit to learn about the history Venture to Virginia- border, its 300 miles connect Northern Neck. area’s heritage. and culture of the region and its to park your RV, pitch your tent or 60 cultural music venues with artisan shops, watermen. cozy up in one of 13 cabins for an outdoor attractions and historic sites. overnight stay. 14 VIRGINIA.ORG 15 mountain Branch Out Travelers are familiar with Interstates 81 and 64, but natural wonders IN DC’S WINE COUNTRY® and hidden gems beg to be discovered along quieter roads as you traverse the and head into Virginia’s mountains. SIP, SAVOR AND EXPLORE beer & wine trails, farm-fresh dining, historic small towns and outdoor adventures in scenic Northern Virginia. Winchester Come branch out in Loudoun. At the north end of the Shenandoah Valley, Winchester is both a hub for outdoor adventure as well as a historic town with local flair, anchored by Old Town’s vibrant pedestrian mall of boutique shops, patio dining and live performances.

Stay & Play Marker-Miller Orchards Farm Market is just one of many orchards in this “Apple Capital”, offering an VISITLOUDOUN.ORG abundance of fresh produce and family fun.

With 3,000 acres, 100 campsites and three spring-fed lakes, the pet-friendly Cove Campground is a mecca for swimming, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, caving and more.

Hike the lesser-known Tuscarora Trail to the Eagle Rock Overlook for the best views of the Great North Instant Connection. Mountain range. Avid hikers enjoy FALLING SPRINGS FALLS the 7.2-mile out-and-back route Covington from U.S. 48/55, while families often opt for the 2.1-mile trail from Dry Gap.

Hit the Road. Parallel I-81 on Stay & Play Hit the Road. Forego I-64 for Stay & Play the quieter Route 11, the historic Follow the Maury River on the more scenic route, following Double down on your LOVEwork Wilderness Road that was once a bike or foot along the Chessie Route 39 west to Warm Springs - bucket list by checking off two - in natural thoroughfare for migrating Nature Trail, a rail-trail that with a stop at Goshen Pass - and downtown Covington and at the bison, Native American hunters connects Lexington and Buena connecting to U.S. 220 south to iconic Humpback Bridge. Have you ever been to a place that just felt like home, even though you’ve never been before? That’s the magic of Middleburg. You’ll feel our authentic sense of community from the moment you pass into our town, where gracious avenues, and settlers striking out for the Vista. Falling Spring Falls. inviting storefronts and hospitable residents welcome you with open arms. Not sure what to do when you get here? western frontier. Stop for an Call up Alleghany Outdoors for a Just ask a friendly local. If we do say so ourselves, we’re your best tour guides. appropriately themed snack at the Celebrate a day of adventure kayak or tube trip on the Jackson

Route 11 Potato Chips Factory and by pairing mountain views Covington River. They even offer bike trips for FALLING SPRINGS FALLS: PREETHI B. HARBUCK Visitor Center in Mount Jackson. with a crisp brew and a jumbo those who prefer dry land. pretzel on the patio at Devils Surrounded by the George Backbone Outpost Tap Room Washington and Jefferson Enjoy a sandy beach with & Kitchen. National Forests, Covington mountain views at Lake Moomaw, Lexington offers a taste of small-town life which offers two options for this The majestic Natural Bridge rare combo: Coles Point on the Have you ever been to a place that just felt like home, even though you’ve never been before? This historic college town is towers 215 feet over the along the banks of the Jackson southern end and Bolar Mountain anything but sleepy. A bustling creek that carved it. Continue River and is a great jumping off Campground to the north. That’s the magic of Middleburg. You’ll feel our authentic sense of community from the downtown welcomes you with along the Cedar Creek Trail point for fresh-air fun. moment you pass into our town, where gracious avenues, inviting storefronts and local restaurants, galleries and to discover bonus gems: the hospitable residents welcome you with open arms. Not sure what to do when you get here? boutiques, while natural wonders reconstructed Monacan Village Just ask a friendly local. If we do say so ourselves, we’re your best tour guides. and the cascading Lace Falls. Middlebrgva.gov abound nearby. If these itineraries have you itching to hit the road, head to virginia.org/wanderlove for even more trip ideas!

16 VIRGINIA.ORG 17 Love CAPE CHARLES lives here BY SAMANTHA NELSON

imply put, LOVEworks are the heartbeat of Virginia – put on display for all to see. With “love” s from the state’s slogan “Virginia is for Lovers,” and “works” like distinctive works of art, these giant LOVE signs uniquely represent the communities in which they’re found. And with more than 200 LOVEworks to be discovered throughout the Commonwealth, we’re challenging you to spot as many as you can while traveling. To get you started, here are six LOVEwork Expeditions that pair hearty family adventures with prime LOVEworks spotting. Best of all, these experiences promise incredible sights throughout Virginia and priceless family memories. ADAM LEWIS

18 VIRGINIA.ORG 19 DINOSAUR DISCOVERY TRAIL LOVEWORK HISTORIC JAMESTOWNE PONY SWIM VIRGINIA LIVING MUSEUM Newport News Breaks Jamestown Chincoteague Newport News DINOSAUR DISCOVERY TRAIL: COURTESY OF THE VACATION / BREAKS INTERSTATE PARK: COURTESY OF SAMANTHA NELSON / HISTORIC JAMESTOWNE:

ALPACAS & WATERSPORTS ZIPLINES & WILDLIFE DINOSAUR TRAIL & FRESH AIR & WILD PONIES TEXTBOOKS COME TO LIFE EVERYTHING BUT ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS THE KITCHEN SINK Smith Mountain Lake Breaks Interstate Park MICHAEL LAVIN / MASSANUTTEN RESORT TUBING: SARAH HAUSER / SMITH MOUNTAIN LAKE FARM: LOVICARIUS / LOVEWORK: JOANNE MOORE Chincoteague Pony Mt. Vernon or Virginia Living Museum Swim Historic Jamestowne Massanutten Resort Sneak away to the Blue Ridge Mountains Encompassing the “ of the to discover a wealth of opportunities for South” – a 5-mile gorge that plunges 1,650 This impressive living museum is appropriate Set your sights on Virginia’s Eastern Shore Experiential learning is one of the fastest Want to experience an indoor/outdoor charming family adventure. First, visit the feet! – this park affords all visitors endless for travelers ages one to 100! From touch tanks and visit Chincoteague and Assateague ways to stimulate curiosity in little minds. waterpark, ziplining, mountain biking and nation’s largest agritourism facility for alpaca adventure and spectacular views. Rent a filled with sea stars and horseshoe crabs to Islands. Not only will you be able to tour So, a visit to either of these spots is a great golfing all in one spot? Massanutten Resort education: Smith Mountain Lake Alpaca private cabin or yurt, or book a restful life-sized dinosaurs and a delicate butterfly the Chincoteague way to make history come alive! Tour George is known for being a hotspot for family Farm. It’s not a petting zoo, but it will provide getaway at the park’s lodge. Whatever you garden, the opportunities for experiential with more than 14,000 acres of beaches, sand Washington’s home at Mount Vernon or adventure with all sorts of activities, including up-close experiences (feeding alpacas!), as well choose, don’t skip the ziplining! The entire learning abound. There are few other places dunes and maritime forests, but you can also visit Historic Jamestowne, the original site of skiing and snow tubing, as well as year-round as engaging, hands-on learning activities for family can experience a safe but thrilling that can feature so much of Virginia’s natural catch a glimpse of the famous wild ponies. America’s very first settlement. Let Virginia fun. Located just two hours from the nation’s the entire family. After that, rent a pontoon adrenaline rush of soaring over the Russell wonders and wildlife all in one location. Time your visit just right and you’ll be able to transform your family of history learners capital, it’s the perfect combo of thrills and boat from Bridgewater Marina & Boat Fork gorge from incredible heights. The views see the annual pony swim, a tradition dating into history lovers. learning, with can’t-miss sights like White Oak Lavender Farm just a short drive away. Rentals and explore the crystal waters of are unforgettable. Don’t miss the seasonal elk LOVE Hunt: There are two LOVEworks back to the 1700s. Other nearby activities great Smith Mountain Lake. You can even dock watching tour, too. nearby. One is located at the museum. for families include Maui Jack’s Waterpark LOVE Hunt: Drive 16 minutes from your boat for lunch at a variety of waterfront The other is in nearby City Center at and the Assateague Lighthouse. Mount Vernon to spot the LOVEwork LOVE Hunt: When you’re at the resort, marina restaurants. Oyster Point and has an extra set of at the Workhouse Arts Center. Painted you literally can’t miss the gigantic LOVE Hunt: Look closely as you enter letters after the L-O-V-E. Stop by to LOVE Hunt: Commemorate your trip by artist Marlon Diggs, “Marly McFly,” LOVEwork sign, which stands at 11 feet Breaks Interstate Park. There is an discover what they are! with a family picture on the LOVEwork this LOVEwork represents the area’s tall and 35 feet wide and is made of LOVE Hunt: Can you locate the intricately painted LOVEwork depicting made of giant Adirondack chairs! melting pot of culture. If you are near wood and grapevines from around the decorative LOVEwork at the alpaca all the adventures you can find while Historic Jamestowne, don’t miss the resort. Strike a pose and snap a picture farm? How many activities can you visiting this location. 8-foot-tall steel LOVEwork at Quirks when you find it. find in the new LOVEwork mural at the of Art. Smith Mountain Lake Visitor Center? PONY SWIM: TODD WRIGHT / VIRGINIA LIVING MUSEUM: COURTESY OF THE VACATION CHANNEL / BREAKS INTERSTATE PARK: CATHY ANDERSON / / ANDERSON CATHY PARK: INTERSTATE BREAKS / CHANNEL VACATION THE OF COURTESY MUSEUM: LIVING VIRGINIA / WRIGHT TODD SWIM: PONY BOONE LATISHA LOVEEWORK" RESORT MASSANUTTEN

Did you find all the LOVEworks? Be sure to snap and share with fellow LOVE seekers using #LOVEVA.

MASSANUTTEN RESORT TUBING SMITH MOUNTAIN LAKE FARM LOVEWORK BREAKS INTERSTATE PARK MASSANUTTEN RESORT LOVEWORK McGaheysville Smith Mountain Lake Chincoteague Breaks McGaheysville

20 VIRGINIA.ORG 21 TACO BAMBA Falls Church

WILL TRAVEL FOR GREG PPOWERS Abingdon: Appalachian Spirit Falls Church: Global Flavors Located in the Blue Ridge Highlands of the Appalachian In Falls Church, the restaurant experience is the food, and eating Mountains, Abingdon has a deep connection with the land your way through town is a gustatory, globetrotting extravaganza. with its agricultural history and the Creeper Trail’s outdoor You can find a stellar bowl of Vietnamese as easily as Peruvian recreation. The laid-back mountain town’s creative spirit is rotisserie chicken, reflecting the diverse cultures and vibrant anchored by downtown’s historic Barter Theatre and reflected cuisines of the people who call Falls Church home. Hidden in Appalachian foodways, in which seasonal, resourceful cooking gems include the best in town unassumingly located next is echoed on local restaurant menus. BY LAYLA KHOURY- HANOLD THESE FIVE CITIES ARE DINING to a carpet cleaning service and sitting across the street from a DESTINATIONS FOR BEST- IN- CLASS EATS. Abingdon Farmers Snow’s Fine Meats Harvest Table: Lebanese halal butcher shop. Market: Robust & Provisions: Whole Casually elegant irginia’s food scene reflects the rich agricultural history that generations of farmers year-round market animal butcher farm-to-table Taco Bamba: Logic- Eden Center: Peking Gourmet and artisans have preserved, as well as the vibrant and diverse cultures of those who with produce and shop offering restaurant where defying tacos from Vietnamese Inn: Local institution have made these food hubs home. What makes dining in the Commonwealth so exciting provisions from custom cuts and heirloom crops are Falls Church native shopping center specializing in is the way that restaurants are doubling down on these foodways and interpreting them local farmers and pantry provisions, the star of seasonal chef Victor Albisu. chockful of Peking duck, purveyors. plus butchery and plates. restaurants. Hit carved tableside. in dishes both modern and traditional, giving Virginia towns distinct dining calling cards. cooking classes. Padaek: A Lao and up Huong Viet Dumplings are top- From Pakistani-Appalachian food truck fare to Southern comfort classics, these five delicious White Birch Sarah Jean’s Eatery: Thai restaurant Restaurant, Rice notch, too. destinations are worth the trip. Kitchen & Juice Bar: The Pakalachian: A casual spot for at Seven Corners Paper or Hai Dong. Vibrant juice bar Food truck clever spins on Center showcasing Takumi: Intimate and café serving blending its homey Southern unabashedly spicy, Four Sisters: yet unpretentious locally sourced, co-owners’ and Appalachian bright and funky Stalwart family- sushi bar serving scratch-made Southwestern fare. flavors. owned Vietnamese some of the most breakfast and lunch Virginia and restaurant lauded pristine fish in the on historic Main Pakistani heritages. for its crispy spring D.C. area. Street. rolls. 22 VIRGINIA.ORG 23 Cape Charles: Spectacular Seafood Island House Restaurant: Tim’s Place: Local Hook@Harvey: Formerly Thanks to a resurgence in local aquaculture and tourism, Fine dining seafood institution with a the Hook-U-Up Gourmet, spot overlooking decades-long reputation this modern bistro serves Cape Charles is experiencing a renaissance. The secret to the picturesque for seafood baskets and up marina views and the flourishing seafood scene—including local oysters, Wachapreague Harbor. fried chicken. seasonal seafood-inspired clams, crabs and fish—is the area’s pristine water quality. dishes. The Shanty: A local The Oyster Farm Seafood While shucking houses dotting the landscape once favorite for steamed Eatery at Kings Creek: Pearl Market: A curated shucked oysters for mass consumption, now it’s all about seafood in Cape Charles Upscale seafood eatery shop for local seafood, virginiawine.org craft oysters, each of which reflect their unique merroir, Harbor. with al fresco dining provisions and artisanal and sunset views of the treats. or marine environment. Chesapeake shore. Its earned it a spot on the Virginia Oyster Trail. THE SHANTY Cape Charles Charlottesville: Wine-To-Table Charlottesville’s burgeoning restaurant scene reflects the widespread support for eateries that champion local sourcing, including wine. Restaurateurs’ appreciation for the diversity of the Monticello Viticultural Area’s terroir has steadily grown. You’ll find Virginia staples such as Cabernet Franc and Viognier, but also lesser- known varietals such as Petit Verdot, a full-bodied red with dark fruit flavors, or Petit Manseng, an aromatic dry white wine. Whether paired with Southern- inflected tapas or classic French cuisine, Charlottesville’s viticulture makes it a wine-to-table foodie paradise.

Oakhart Social: Midtown The Local: Cozy Belmont Fleurie: Polished French neighborhood gem with eatery with a lovely restaurant with a local- a laid-back vibe and patio, winning modern leaning wine list on the There’s a movement eclectic menu. American menu and more historic Downtown Mall. Most Memorable Meals than 50 Virginia wines on with John Park, aka Little Star: Tapas-joint- its 300-label list. Public Fish & Oyster: Chic growing in Virginia meets-wine-bar with a with a @HungryAsianRKE dose of whimsy. stellar raw bar. vineyards. John Park describes himself as a food evangelist. The Roanoke-based financial planner is passionate about Come experience it for yourself. restaurants: dining at them, forging relationships Roanoke: Southern Comfort with chefs and purveyors and chronicling his eating With over 1,000 miles of trails for biking, hiking and climbing, plus sweeping adventures on Instagram as @hungryasianrke, which mountain views along the Blue Ridge Parkway, Roanoke is an outdoor lovers’ paradise. led to his food photography side gig. He and his wife, Sharon, frequently plan trips across the state with food The Star City’s culinary scene shines bright thanks to classic and contemporary in mind. John shares some of his most memorable restaurants dishing out Southern comfort food. Roanoke’s culinary heritage can bites, from hidden gem pastries on the Eastern Shore be traced back to downtown’s Roanoke City Market, where farmers and vendors to hometown sandwich hits. have sold fresh produce, flowers, baked goods and artisanal wares since 1882. From JOHN'S TOP 5 biscuits to barbecue, cornbread to cheese slaw, it’s all guaranteed to be served with Croissant at Amarin, Chincoteague Island a hearty helping of Southern hospitality. Baked fresh daily with a perfectly crisp exterior and a soft, warm interior. Pair it with a house coffee, sourced from the owners’ family farm in Vietnam. The Roanoker: Iconic spot known for down-home SCRATCH BISCUIT COMPANY Roanoke BLT Taco at Pico Taqueria, Chincoteague Island breakfasts such as country This beachy taco shack has excellent seafood tacos ham with red eye gravy. – but don’t sleep on the BLT taco with house-made bacon if it’s on special. Pair with cilantro lime rice and Scratch Biscuit Company: Eastern Shore street corn. Casual counter-service

spot known for fluffy, THE SHANTY: SARAH HAUSER / SCRATCH BISCUIT COMPANY: JOHN PARK Sorghum Crepes at Commune, Virginia Beach buttery biscuits and clever Everything at this daytime spot is beautifully sandwiches. presented; try the cornmeal waffles or sorghum crepes. The sourdough croissants are amazing, too. Mama Jean’s Barbecue: Air--trailer-turned- Bánh mì at Viet Sub, Roanoke food-truck known for Greenway. Try the banana River & Rail: Casual-cool This is a go-to weekend lunch spot for me. Get the its pulled pork, braised pudding, or signatures like spot for elevated seasonal “traditional” with ham, chicken liver pâté and all the Virginia beef brisket goat cheese and blueberry comfort food and choice fixings, all piled onto house-baked bread. and special smoked swirl. cocktails. cheeseburger. Pastrami at ZZQ, Richmond Lucky: Cozy downtown Crystal Spring Grocery: The pastrami, beef ribs and house-made sausages are Blue Cow Ice Cream Co.: spot with warm service, Gourmet grab-and-go and outstanding. Bring a friend and share a couple platters. Small-batch scoop shop ace cocktails and Southern casual café. near the Roanoke River fare with global flair.

24 VIRGINIA.ORG 25 MOUNT VERNON

My first visit to a presidential home was the result of a disappointment.

It was the summer of 1967 and my best friend Michelle and I were on the Wilson Line ferry headed from Washington, D.C., to Marshall Hall, an amusement park on the side of the . I was 10 years old; Michelle was 11. We lived next door to each other in tidy brick homes, with hard- working dads and stay-at-home moms. Our Black, middle-class Washington, D.C., neighborhood with tree-lined streets and white-paved sidewalks was From safe enough to leave the doors unlocked, even after the streetlights came on. Carefree young girls, Michelle and I were blissfully unaware of what was happening beyond our sheltered community. We had no idea that earlier that summer, there were riots in cities across the country from Newark to Detroit to Milwaukee that left 83 people dead and hundreds more injured. Mount Vernon We did not know about the smoldering cities or about the racial inequality that ignited the unrest. Our parents’ efforts to protect us from the country’s racial strife and social inequities had been very successful. At 10 years old, I did not know that my brown skin made to Monticello me different from other Americans. A 50-year journey to my ancestral home.

BY GAYLE JESSUP WHITE CAMERON DAVIDSON

26 VIRGINIA.ORG 27 But over the years, the spirit of For me, the stories shared at evolution brought change to the Virginia’s venerated historical sites Commonwealth. From house museums are personal because they also tell like Monticello and Montpelier, to the history of my family. Not only locations such as Colonial Williamsburg am I descended from enslaved people and Point Comfort (now from throughout central Virginia, in Hampton), the stories of the enslaved but I am also related to those who are an integral part of the visitor enslaved them – most famously, experience. Thomas Jefferson.

Thomas J. and I

Monticello, Charlottesville That summer, all I knew or cared about was my mother’s promise to take us to Marshall Hall. The rides, we were told, were superior to the ones at Glen Echo, the region’s other popular amusement park. Until 1961, it was for Whites only. It took the arrest of five Howard University students for refusing to get off the park’s carousal and the protests that followed to desegregate Glen Echo. Marshall Hall had a similar history, but I would not learn about the brave people who paved the way for my Never mind, Mom said, we’ll take summer adventure until I was an adult. the ferry to Mount Vernon instead. George Washington’s home was almost directly across the river from Marshall Hall, and while visiting the first president’s estate was not My brother and I in Washington D.C., my idea of fun, I accepted my fate. But once we crossed Mount Vernon’s threshold, I was enthralled. TRAILBLAZERS Walking through the rooms that had been Washington’s, I learned about his life and his America. I explored the dining room where he took his WELCOME meals and the bedroom where he slept. What I did not see in 1967 was evidence of the 317 enslaved people owned by Washington and Monticello his wife Martha. It was the same story at Jamestown where in 1619, “20

BOTTOM MONTICELLO: COURTESY OF THE THOMAS JEFFERSON FOUNDATION and odd” kidnapped Africans

1960, THOMAS J. IMAGE: COURTESY OF GAYLE WHITE JESSUP / TOP AND arrived at the English settlement, the first enslaved Blacks in what The day we sailed across the Potomac was full of sunshine would become the and anticipation as the Wilson Line left D.C.’s wharf and of America. In 1967, at Thomas headed toward Maryland. After a journey that seemed Jefferson’s Monticello, there was no like an eternity (but was probably less than an hour), we indication that the principal author approached the bank. I stood on the boat’s deck, my heart of the Declaration of Independence pounding as we drew closer and park’s view grew larger. owned 607 men, women and But we never got to Marshall Hall that day. Nature children throughout his life. For called Michelle just as we were about to disembark. By generations, African American the time we made it to the gangway, the boat was pulling history was not considered part vacrossroads.com [email protected] away. With tears rolling down my cheeks, I watched my of Virginia’s sacred past. dream fade into the distance.

28 VIRGINIA.ORG 29 1960 A domestic who could not read, visiting Virginia’s historical sites is Mount Vernon, the home of America’s write or even spell her own name, essential. Places like Monticello tell an first president, that I would one day work at she left little behind aside from honest American story, with all of its the home of the third American president, a conviction that her nieces and contradictions, complexities, failures and Thomas Jefferson. I could not have foreseen nephews were descended from the triumphs. Understanding our history that I would give voice to the people he third president of the United States. will help us build a better, more inclusive enslaved, including my own family. I could “You’re descended from Thomas future. not have envisioned that what started as Jefferson. I’m not, but you are,” I could not have imagined when I a disappointment would result in such a she would say. was a curious 10-year-old exploring gratifying ending. It was easy to doubt Aunt Peachie. Back then, people did not discuss Jefferson’s connection to Sally Hemings, the enslaved woman who bore six of his children. However, after decades of research, I would discover that Aunt Peachie was Fort Monroe, Hampton telling the truth. Oral history, fragmented documents and DNA testing confirm that my family is in fact descended from Jefferson, though not through his connection with Hemings. In an extraordinary discovery, I uncovered that I am descended from one of Jefferson’s great-great- grandsons who had a relationship with my great-grandmother, a niece of Sally Hemings. Named after It is because of the stubborn insistence of an elderly aunt her aunt, she was the daughter that at 13 years old, I learned of our family’s connection of enslaved Monticello cook and to Jefferson. Her name was Aunt Peachie and she was my brewer, Peter Hemings, one of paternal grandmother’s half-sister. She was not related Sally’s older brothers. to Jefferson because the sisters did not have the same My family’s history, like America’s, father. I never met Aunt Peachie; like most of my father’s is confounding and complex. family, including my grandparents, she was gone by the Untangling the past is one reason time I was born. But my family remembered her fondly.

Black History Museum and

Cultural Center of Virginia, Richmond

Virginia is rich with links to MONTPELIER: COURTESY OF MONTPELIER / ROBERT RUSSA MOTON MUSEUM: MUSEUM: MOTON RUSSA ROBERT / MONTPELIER OF COURTESY MONTPELIER: DALTON KIM ILLUSTRATION: JAMESTOWN PAGE) (CURRENT / MERGEN MICHAEL Robert Russa Moton Museum Mural, Farmville / HAUSER SARAH MUSEUM: HISTORY BACK MONROE:, FORT PAGE) (FACING our past, from Colonial-era historic sites in Jamestown and Williamsburg to presidential homes (Virginia, known as the “mother of presidents,” has eight), to Civil War sites such as Appomattox Court House, Civil Rights points like the Civil Rights in Education Heritage Trail™, and museums such as James Madison's Montpelier: The Mere the Black History & Cultural Distinction of Color, Montpelier Station Center of Virginia.

30 VIRGINIA.ORG 31 Want to pair a waterfall Virginia’s state parks hike with a visit to a winery? are among the leaders DuCard Vineyards is in sustainable tourism. located in the shadow of When you visit preserves such as Grayson Highlands near the wild waterfalls of with its wild ponies, historic Shenandoah’s Whiteoak Canyon. Occoneechee on Lake Kerr or sustainable travel NATURAL DuCard Vineyards sets the standard sandy Kiptopeke on the Eastern : TUNNEL for green wineries. This leading STATE PARK Shore, you will see these Virginia Duffield IT'S THE VIRGINIA WAY producer of organic wine uses State Parks participating in wide cutting edge biodynamic ranging green initiatives covering procedures (utilizing the all aspects of environmental land’s natural qualities integrity. This includes installing BY JOHNNY MOLLOY with minimal inputs and water bottle filling stations and a long term approach to reestablishing native landscapes, as conserving the land and well as mounting soap and shampoo environment). DuCard dispensers in their cabin showers. Vineyards simply wants These actions reduce waste while to be a good steward of preserving and restoring the natural DUCARD the land when they compost landscape. This way your travel VINEYARDS Etlan grape waste byproducts and experience will be for the good, filter wastewater through a wetland whether you are gazing into the of their own creation, among other wild gorge of Breaks Interstate State practices. Be sure to visit the tasting Park, camping beneath the stars at bar, enjoying vineyard samples plus State Park or admiring new release wines. Up your game with the fascinating geology of Natural a wine flight combined with tasty Tunnel State Park. platters of locally made gourmet cheese or a homemade dessert. Adventure Kayak Tours leads paddling The historic Mountain Lake Lodge trips in southeastern – where the iconic movie "Dirty Virginia, from primeval Dancing" was filmed – is part of coastal creeks to the non-profit Mountain Lake beachcombing island Conservancy, protecting 2,600 treks in the Atlantic acres of picturesque Appalachian Ocean, all with an eye on the DISMAL highlands. The untamed forest environment. Adventure Kayak Tours SWAMP ecosystem safeguards stream water periodically holds “P.I.T.O.” (Paddle Suffolk quality while protecting lesser- In Trash Out) events, partnering seen flora and fauna, including the with paddling enthusiasts to clean wide lip orchid and sought-for bird up local . Waterways they species like the Northern saw-whet paddle on their ecotours include owl and yellow-bellied sapsucker. North Landing River Natural Area The land, laced with enticing hiking Preserve and the celebrated Dismal hen lovers of the great outdoors come to times, soaking in Virginia’s natural splendor while trails leading to overlooks such as Swamp. The outfit will also take Virginia, they have high expectations – and maintaining its beauty for those who come after you. Bald Knob and Butt Mountain, is also you out to Smith Island for shelling deservedly so! Exploring Virginia means Virginia encourages this blend of responsible business used for scientific research. After a after paddling through wildlife-rich adventures ranging from combing the beaches practices and tourism in ways that respect the environment rewarding hike on the conservancy coastal marshes. of the Atlantic coastline to trekking the lofty via the Virginia Green Travel Alliance. The organization property, enjoy locally sourced Blue Ridge Mountains to exploring a host of recognizes and works with restaurants, lodging operators, farm-to-table dining at the inspiring scenes in between. wineries, parks and ecotourism businesses, helping them to on-site restaurant, Harvest. You can enhance your Virginia travel experience by be ecologically responsible while serving Virginia visitors. Then you can overnight supporting travel-related enterprises leading the way Create your sustainable vacation using one of the at the Main Stone Lodge, in sustainable practices that preserve the land and following establishments that are outstanding examples a rustic cabin or modern waters of this vibrant state. This doubles the good of ecotourism found only in Virginia. mountain home, all set

KYLE LAFERRIERE MOUNTAIN at 4,000 feet on Virginia’s LAKE LODGE MOUNT ROGERS highest lake. Pembroke Mouth of Wilson DUCARD VINEYARDS: ALI ZAMAN / NATURAL TUNNEL STATE PARK: SCOTT K. BROWN / DISMAL SWAMP: JOEL MULBAH & ALYSSA GILBERT / MOUNTAIN LAKE LODGE: TRICIA KEPPEL TRICIA LODGE: LAKE MOUNTAIN / GILBERT ALYSSA & MULBAH JOEL SWAMP: DISMAL / BROWN K. SCOTT PARK: STATE TUNNEL NATURAL / ZAMAN ALI VINEYARDS: DUCARD

32 VIRGINIA.ORG 33 Would you like to mix a relaxing float environment by repurposing materials and National & ntals Cabins down the Potomac River with a dining turning them into works of beauty? Come experience at one of America’s first to Abingdon and explore the Southwest Regional Parks, & Canoe Re

organic farm eateries? The Restaurant Virginia Cultural Center and Marketplace. Refuges & Forests cking Paddleboat Rentals Fishing Groceries Snack Bar Restaurant Rental Horses Visitor Center Programs Handicapped Accessible FeeAdmission FeeParking Environmental Education Ctr. Region* Camping Camping Group Dumping Station Showers Toilets Cabins Housekeeping Primitive Group at Patowmack Farm, located near Admire locally handcrafted fineries such as Picni Bridle Trails Hiking Trails Bicycle Trails Self-Guiding Trails Swimming & Bathhouse Boat Launching Motor Boats Permitted Rowboat Please be sure to Lovettsville, will do it for you. Their glass works, pottery, jewelry and clothing. Algonkian Regional Park, Sterling, VA N ❖❖ ❖ ❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖ ❖❖ motto is to “nourish the soul and excite leave no trace as you Check ahead for live artisan demonstrations. 703-450-4655, novaparks.com/parks/algonkian-regional-park explore Virginia’s Assateague Island National Seashore, Chincoteague, VA the palate.” They do this using freshly The center also sustains area farms by E ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ diverse natural 757-336-6577, nps.gov/asis cultivated products from their own farm selling homegrown products and hosting Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, Virginia Beach, VA habitats. Always pack Co ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 757-301-7329, fws.gov/refuge/back_bay – along with other local ingredients – and up what you bring agritourism events such as grape stomping

combine them for a stellar dining event. and apple butter making. And when in Ball's Bluff Battlefield Regional Park, Leesburg, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ along, respect the 703-737-7800, novaparks.com/parks/balls-bluff-battlefield-region- One of Virginia’s first certified organic wildlife and your Abingdon, a bicycle ride on the gorgeous al-park farms, they take a long-term, healthy Virginia Creeper Trail – a repurposed rail trail surroundings and Blue Ridge Parkway SB ❖❖❖ ❖❖ ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖ ❖❖ ❖❖❖ farming view, rotating crops and using leave the land as you running through lovely terrain – is a must. 828-271-4779, nps.gov/blri M

smart conservation while protecting the found it: beautiful. Bull Run Regional Park, Centreville, VA N ❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖ ❖❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-631-0550, novaparks.com/parks/bull-run-regional-park soil. On your way to Patowmack Farm, Visit lnt.org for more No matter your chosen Virginia outdoor vacation information. Cameron Run Regional Park, Alexandria, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ first paddle the legendary Potomac River – whether you paddle the coast, hike the mountains, 703-960-0767, novaparks.com/parks/cameron-run-regional-park through island-studded easy waters bicycle a rail trail or camp somewhere in between – you

Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, Chincoteague, VA E ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ from Point of Rocks to Whites Ford can visit Virginia parks, accommodations, wineries, 757-336-6122, fws.gov/refuge/chincoteague

Regional Park, then spend the evening restaurants and artisans that combine their unique National Historical Park H ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ at Patowmack Farm with an entertaining specialties and services with a genuine love and respect 606-248-2817, nps.gov/cuga Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge, Cape Charles, E ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ meal you won’t forget. for their surroundings. It’s the Virginia way. VA 757-331-2760, fws.gov/refuge/Eastern_Shore_of_Virginia

Want to support art and artisans To start planning your next eco-friendly Fountainhead Regional Park, Station, VA N ❖ ❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖❖ 703-250-9124, novaparks.com/parks/fountainhead-regional-park working their craft in ways that help the vacation, visit virginia.org/green. George Washington & Jefferson National Forests, Roanoke, VA SB H ❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖ ❖❖❖❖❖ 540-265-5100, fs.usda.gov/gwj M

Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, Suffolk, VA Co ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 757-986-3705, fws.gov/refuge/Great_Dismal_Swamp

Hemlock Overlook Regional Park, Clifton, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 800-877-0954, novaparks.com/parks/hemlock-overlook-regional- park

Meadowlark Botanical Gardens, Vienna, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-255-3631, novaparks.com/parks/meadowlark-botanical-gardens

Mt. Rogers , Marion, VA B ❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖❖ ❖ ❖ 800-628-7202, fs.usda.gov/gwj

Natural Chimneys Park, Mt. Solon, VA S ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 540-350-2510, co.augusta.va.us

Newport News Park, Newport News, VA Co ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖ ❖ 757-9226-1400, nnparks.com/parks_nn.php

Occoquan Regional Park, Lorton, VA N ❖ ❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖ 703-690-2121, novaparks.com/parks/occoquan-regional-park

Pohick Bay Regional Park, Lorton, VA N ❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖❖❖❖ 703-339-6104, novaparks.com/parks/pohick-bay-regional-park

Potomac Overlook Regional Park, Arlington, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-528-5406, novaparks.com/parks/potomac-overlook-regional- park

Potomac River National Wildlife Refuge Complex, Woodbridge, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-490-4979, fws.gov/refuge/Mason_Neck/About_the_Complex. html

Presquile National Wildlife Refuge, Chesterfield, VA C ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 804-829-9020, fws.gov/refuge/presquile

Prince William Forest Park, Triangle, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-221-7181, nps.gov/prwi/index.htm

Rappahannock River Valley National Wildlife Refuge, Warsaw, VA Ch ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 804-333-1470, fws.gov/refuge/rappahannock_river_valley

Red Rock Wilderness Overlook Regional Park, Leesburg, VA N ❖ 703-737-7800, novaparks.com/parks/red-rock-wilderness-overlook- THE RESTAURANT AT PATOWMACK FARM: TODD WRIGHT regional-park

Shenandoah National Park/ Skyline Drive, Luray, VA S ❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 540-999-3500, nps.gov/shen

Upton Hill Regional Park, Arlington, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-534-3437, novaparks.com/parks/upton-hill-regional-park

W&OD Railroad Regional Park, Ashburn, VA N ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ ❖ 703-729-0596, novaparks.com/parks/washington-and-old-domin- ion-railroad-regional-park

* B-Blue Ridge Highlands, C-Central, Ch-Chesapeake Bay, Co-Coastal, E-Eastern Shore, H-Heart of Appalachia, M-Mountains, N-Northern, S-Shenandoah Valley, So-Southern. THE RESTAURANT AT PATOWMACK FARM Lovettsville ‡ for Virginia portion only

34 PADDLING Virginia State Parks o„ er canoeing, Your Parks kayaking, and, for a real challenge, stand-up paddleboards. Other water amenities include full-service marinas, car-top, slide and concrete boat ramps. State parks provide access to Your adventures Virginia’s most popular rivers and lakes, as well as the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. WATCHING Bald eagles soaring thousands of feet overhead. Dee